Arizona &

the Grand Canyon

19th Edition

by Karl Samson

John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Published by:

John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

111 River St.

Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

Copyright © 2013 John Wiley and Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Wiley and the Wiley logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/

or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

ISBN 978-1-118-28857-3 (paper); ISBN 978-1-118-33383-9 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-33498-0 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-33163-7 (ebk)

Editor: Christine Ryan

Production Editor: Michael Brumitt

Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell

Photo Editor: Richard Fox, Alden Gewirtz

Design and Layout by Vertigo Design

Graphics and Prepress by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services

Front cover photo: Sandstone formations in Paria Canyon, near Wilderness, Arizona ©Keith Kapple /

SuperStock / Alamy Images.

Back cover photos: Left: Prickly pear cactus ©James S. Wood. Middle: Wigwam Motel, Holbrook, Arizona ©Josh Biggs. Right: San Xavier Del Bac Mission, Tucson, Arizona ©James S. Wood.

For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993

or fax 317/572-4002.

Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.

Manufactured in the United States of America

5 4 3 2 1

CONTENTS

List of Maps vi

1 THE BEST OF ARIZONA 1

The Most Unforgettable Travel

The Best Hiking Experiences 9

Experiences 3

The Best Scenic Drives 10

The Best Regional Experiences 4

The Best Offbeat Travel

The Best Food & Drink

Experiences 12

Experiences 6

The Best Wild West

The Best Ways to See Arizona

Experiences 13

Like a Local 7

The Best Places to Explore

The Best Family Experiences 8

Indian Ruins 14

2 ARIZONA IN DEPTH 16

Arizona Today 18

When to Go 33

The Making of Arizona 21

ARIZONA CALENDAR OF EVENTS 34

Arizona in Pop Culture 28

Arizona’s Natural World 37

Eating & Drinking in Arizona 31

Responsible Travel 42

3 SUGGESTED ARIZONA ITINERARIES 44

Regions in Brief 45

A Sojourn in Southeastern

Arizona Highlights 49

Arizona 56

Arizona in 2 Weeks 53

Native Trails of Arizona 58

Arizona in the Winter 62

4 PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE & THE VALLEY

OF THE SUN 64

The Best Travel Experiences in

THE TOP MUNICIPAL COURSES 105

Phoenix 66

Where to Eat 113

Essentials 66

Shopping 135

Getting Around 71

Entertainment & Nightlife 142

FAST FACTS: PHOENIX 73

Where to Stay 156

Exploring Phoenix 74

A Side Trip from Phoenix:

Walking Tour: Old Town

The Apache Trail 175

Scottsdale 80

5 CENTRAL ARIZONA 178

The Best Travel Experiences in

The Verde Valley 201

Central Arizona 180

Sedona & Oak Creek Canyon 207

Wickenburg 180

VORTEX POWER 212

Prescott 186

THE HIGH COST OF RED-ROCK

Jerome 197

VIEWS 214

6 THE GRAND CANYON & NORTHERN

ARIZONA 237

The Best Travel Experiences in

Williams 292

Northern Arizona 239

Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon South Rim 239

West 297

FAST FACTS: THE GRAND CANYON 245 Kingman 302

The Grand Canyon North Rim 271

GET YOUR KICKS ON ROUTE 66 304

Flagstaff 278

7 THE FOUR CORNERS REGION: LAND

OF THE HOPI & NAVAJO 308

The Best Travel Experiences in the

The Window Rock & Ganado

Four Corners Region 312

Areas 330

Winslow 313

Canyon de Chelly National

The Hopi Reservation 316

Monument 334

A NATIVE AMERICAN CRAFTS

FRED HARVEY & HIS GIRLS 338

PRIMER 324

Navajo National Monument 341

The Petrified Forest & Painted

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal

Desert 326

Park 343

Lake Powell & Page 348

8 EASTERN ARIZONA’S HIGH COUNTRY 360

The Best Travel Experiences in

Pinetop-Lakeside 366

Eastern Arizona 361

Greer & Sunrise Park 369

Payson & the Mogollon Rim

Springerville & Eagar 373

Country 362

The Coronado Trail 375

9 TUCSON 378

The Best Travel Experiences in

THE SHRINE THAT STOPPED A

Tucson 380

FREEWAY 406

Orientation 380

PUBLIC & MUNICIPAL COURSES 410

Getting Around 386

Where to Eat 415

FAST FACTS: TUCSON 387

Shopping 431

Exploring Tucson 388

Entertainment & Nightlife 437

Walking Tour: Downtown Historic

Where to Stay 444

Districts 392

10 SOUTHERN ARIZONA 460

The Best Travel Experiences in

Patagonia & Sonoita 474

Southern Arizona 462

Sierra Vista & the San Pedro

Organ Pipe Cactus National

Valley 479

Monument 462

Tombstone 487

Tubac & Buenos Aires National

Bisbee 491

Wildlife Refuge 465

Cochise County 497

STARRY, STARRY NIGHTS 470

HEADIN’ DOWN THE SALSA TRAIL 506

Nogales 472

11 ARIZONA’S “WEST COAST” 507

The Best Travel Experiences in

Lake Havasu & the London

Western Arizona 508

Bridge 517

Lake Mead National

CANOEING THE COLORADO 520

Recreation Area 510

Side Trips 525

Bullhead City & Laughlin,

Yuma 526

Nevada 514

12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ARIZONA 533

Getting There 534

Tours 537

Getting Around 535

FAST FACTS: ARIZONA 547

Tips on Where to Stay 536

Airline Websites 556

Index 557

GLEN CANYON

The Grand Canyon

NATIONAL

89

RECREATION AREA

Lake

& Northern Arizona

UTAH

Powell

ARIZONA

Fredonia

1

389

VERMILION CLIFFS

Pipe Spring

Page

89A

NAT’L MONUMENT

National

Lees Ferry

Monument

Marble Canyon

89A

KAIBITO PLATEAU

Jacob Lake

E

98

K A I B A B

c

67

h

N A T ’ L

o

F O R E S T

Marble Canyon

Clif

GRAND CANYON-

KAIBAB PLATEAU

fs

PARASHANT

89

NAT’L MONUMENT

N A V A J O I N D I A N

GRAND CANYON

R E S E R V A T I O N

Colorado River Supai

NATIONAL PARK

2

160

NORTH

HAVASUPAI

RIM

INDIAN

Desert

LIST OF MAPS

RESERVATION

Tuba

HUALAPAI

View

SOUTH

City

INDIAN

Grand Canyon Village

RIM

RESERVATION

Tusayan

64

18

COCONINO PLATEAU

K A I B A B

10

N A T ’ L

Cameron

Arizona 46

Grand Canyon South Rim 249

P

F O R E S T

Litt AI

180

NTED

Suggested Arizona Itineraries 51

Flagstaff 281

l

D

89

e

E

S

C

ER

More Suggested Arizona Itineraries 59

The Four Corners Region 311 o

T

lora

To Grand Canyon West

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of the Sun

Eastern Arizona’

9

s High Country

d

363

& Peach Springs

180

o

3

Attractions 76

Ri

Tucson at a Glance 382

v

66

64

SAN FRANCISCO

e

Walking Tour: Old Town Scottsdale 81

PEAKS

r

Seligman

Tucson Attractions 390

11

8

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of the Sun Humphreys Peak

Ash

Downtown Historic Districts 393

40

4

Restaurants 114

5

To Grand

Fork

Flagstaff

Canyon West

Williams

Tucson Restaurants 416

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of the Sun

6

40

Hotels 158

K A I B A B Tucson Hotels 446Pulliam

N A T ’ L

Airport

Central Arizona 181

F O R E S T

To Winslow

Southern Arizona 463

7

Sedona & Vicinity 209

89

Western Arizona 509

89A 17

0

15 mi

The Grand Canyon & Northern

Sedona

Arizona Birding Guide 540

Airport

Arizona 241

To Prescott

To Phoenix

0

15 km

Ski Area

Arizona Snowbowl 5

Meteor Crater 7

Area of

Cameron Trading Post 10

Sunset Crater Volcano

detail

Coyote Buttes 1

National Monument 8

Flagstaff

Grand Canyon Railway 4

Walnut Canyon National

ARIZONA

Grand Falls 11

Monument 6

Phoenix

Havasu Canyon 2

Wupatki National

Tucson

Historic Route 66 3

Monument 9

vi

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Karl Samson lives in Oregon, where he spends his time juggling his

obsessions with traveling, gardening, outdoor sports, and wine. Each

winter, to dry out his webbed feet, he flees the soggy Northwest and

heads to Arizona, where he updates Frommer’s Arizona & the Grand

Canyon. Karl is also the author of Frommer’s Seattle and Frommer’s Washington State.

HOW TO CONTACT US

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,

shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommer’s Arizona & the Grand Canyon, 19th Edition

John Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

ADVISORY & DISCLAIMER

Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommodations, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings.

Avoid civil disturbances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables.

While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this

guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide.

The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a service

provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that information provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without notice. Neither the publisher nor

author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom.

vii

FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS &

ABBREVIATIONS

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars

(must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds—those places only insiders know about

fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kids—best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money

insider tips—great ways to save time and money

great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express

DISC Discover

V Visa

DC Diners Club

MC MasterCard

TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COM

Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.

frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update

features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel

photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

viii

1

THE BEST

OF

ARIZONA

1 It’s easy to be smug when you’re home to one of the seven natural

wonders of the world, and Arizona’s license plate succinctly sums it

up: Grand Canyon State. However, there is more to this Southwest-

ern state than the vast canyon of the Colorado River. Stately saguaro

oduction

cacti and rugged red-rock landscapes have served as backdrop both

Intr for Western history and Western movies. Cowboys and Indians are still at

home on the range here in Arizona, but it is as a seller of sunshine to the

winter-weary that Arizona has made its fortune.

RIZONA A

OF

Cities In

Phoenix, the nation’s fifth largest city, Ford Mustangs far outnum-

EST

ber wild mustangs and the golf course greens of luxury resorts have long since

B

tamed the desert. Set against a craggy mountain backdrop, Tucson strives to

HE

preserve both its Hispanic heritage and its forests of saguaro cacti. College-town

T

character and a historic downtown make Flagstaff a lively gateway to the Grand Canyon. Jerome and Bisbee, once booming mining towns, have once again struck pay dirt, this time in the guise of galleries and boutiques.

The Great Outdoors Take a hike, ride a mule, or hang on for a rip-roarin’

raft ride. No matter how you approach it, a Grand Canyon adventure is world

class. In the state’s northeast corner, the buttes and mesas of Monument Valley

compete with the canyon for the title

of the state’s most astonishing land-

scape. In southern Arizona, explore the

Sonoran Desert, one of the greenest

deserts on earth. In scenic Sedona,

rumble through the red rocks in a Jeep,

or search out some quiet on a hike or

mountain-bike ride.

Eating & Drinking With Mexico

for a neighbor, it should come as no

surprise that Arizona relishes south-of-

the-border flavors. From street tacos,

Sonoran hot dogs, and air-dried

carne seca to the complex Southwest-

ern and Nuevo Latino dishes served at

such celebrated restaurants as Janos,

Kai, Poca Cosa, and the Turquoise

Room, there’s a regional dish for every

palate. Native American fry bread

tacos are a local guilty pleasure not to

be missed. Wash it all down with a

margarita, microbrew, or even an

Arizona wine.

National Parks While millions of above: Rafting in the Grand Canyon. previ-

people come to Arizona each year to ous page: The Lake Powell Balloon Regatta

visit Grand Canyon National Park, in Page.

2

1

THE

BEST

OF

ARIZONA

The Most Unfor

gettable T

Saguaro National Park.

Desert Botanical Garden.

ravel Experiences

the state is also home to more than a dozen other national parks and monuments.

Massive saguaro cacti are preserved in Tucson’s two units of Saguaro National

Park, while to the west of Tucson, more cacti are preserved in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. In such national monuments as Canyon de

Chelly, Montezuma Castle, Navajo, Wupatki, and Tonto, cliff dwellings and ancient pueblo ruins can be explored.

THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE

TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

Hitting the trail in red-rock country (Sedona): Sedona’s red-rock mesas and

buttes are laced with trails, and whether you put on your hiking boots, hop on

a mountain bike, or take an off-road tour with Pink Jeep Tours, this rugged,

otherworldly landscape will take your breath away. See p. 207.

White-water rafting in the Grand Canyon: Whether you go for 3 days or

2 weeks, nothing comes even remotely close to matching the excitement of a

rafting trip through the Grand Canyon. The Colorado River may be crowded

in the summer, but the grandeur of the canyon makes up for this small incon-

venience. See p. 263.

Hiking into the Grand Canyon or Havasu Canyon: Not for the unfit, a hike

down into the Grand Canyon or Havasu Canyon is a journey through millions

of years set in stone. With both a campground and a lodge at the bottom of

each canyon, you can choose to make this trip with either a fully loaded back-

pack or just a light daypack. See p. 257 and 298.

Marveling at Meteor Crater: East of the town of Winslow, you can visit the

best-preserved meteorite impact crater in the world. The crater is 21⁄2 miles in

3

1

circumference and 550 feet deep. In the 1960s, NASA even used the crater

to train moon-bound astronauts. See p. 315.

A Jeep tour of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park (north of Kayenta):

This valley of sandstone buttes and mesas is one of the most photographed

spots in America and, because of the countless movies, TV shows, and com-

mercials that have been shot here, is familiar to people all over the world. A

17-mile dirt road winds through the park. See p. 345.

Squeezing through Antelope Canyon (Page): Barely a shoulder-width’s

wide in places, this northern Arizona slot canyon demonstrates the great

beauty that can result when water and rock battle each other in the South-

west. Filtered sunlight glows softly on colorful sandstone walls that have been

scalloped and polished by the waters of countless flash floods. See p. 353.

Exploring the cactus forests of Saguaro National Park (Tucson): With

The Best Regional Experiences

units both east and west of Tucson, this national park preserves “forests” of

saguaro cacti and is the very essence of the desert that so many imagine it to

be. You can hike it, bike it, or drive it. See p. 403.

Catching the wave (Vermilion Cliffs National Monument): You may be puz-

RIZONA

zled at how you could catch a wave in Arizona, but the wave in question is

A

actually an internationally renowned sandstone formation near the Utah state

OF

line. Only 20 people per day are allowed to visit this geological marvel. See

p. 356.

EST B

HE

THE best REGIONAL

T

EXPERIENCES

Learning to love cactus at the Desert Botanical Garden (Phoenix): You

wouldn’t want to hug a teddy bear cholla, but you might want to eat a prickly

Biking in Sedona’s red rocks.

4

pear cactus. At this garden dedi-

1

cated to plants of the world’s arid

regions, learn all about cactus and

THE

other desert-adapted plants. See

B

p. 91.

EST

Exploring a lively ghost town

(Jerome and Bisbee): As ghost

OF

towns go, central Arizona’s Jerome

A

and southern Arizona’s Bisbee are

RIZONA

both mighty lively. However, don’t

let the living residents dissuade

you from wandering the streets of

either of these historic former

The Best Regional Experiences

mining towns. See p. 197 and

p. 491.

Mountain biking in Sedona: For-

get Moab—there are too many Petroglyphs at the Rock Art Ranch outside

other hard-core mountain bikers. Winslow.

Among the red rocks of Sedona,

you can escape the crowds and pedal through awesome scenery on some of

the most memorable single-track trails in the Southwest. There’s even plenty

of slickrock for that Canyonlands experience. See p. 220.

Exploring Prescott’s Granite Dells (Prescott): Few cities in Arizona can

boast a landscape as dramatic as that to be found in the Granite Dells on the

northern edge of the city. This maze of jumbled giant boulders is laced with

trails and has two lakes, one of which even has summertime kayak rentals.

See p. 190.

Searching out signs of the Sinaguas (Sedona): At Palatki Heritage Site, west

of Sedona, the ruins of a small cliff dwelling have been preserved, while

nearby, the V Bar V Heritage Site preserves petroglyphs that have been linked

to a variety of solar events. See p. 213 and p. 212.

Visiting Rock Art Ranch (Winslow): Set in a remote little canyon, this private

historic site preserves one of the most extensive collections of petroglyphs in

the state. You can visit only by reservation, and if you’re lucky, you might have

the place all to yourself. See p. 314.

Touring Walpi village: It is said that the Hopi village of Walpi, built atop a

narrow promontory-like mesa in northeastern Arizona, has been occupied for

more than 1,000 years. Guided tours of this ancient, stone-walled village pro-

vide a glimpse into the history of the village and the Hopi culture. See p. 318.

Bird-watching in southern Arizona (various locations): Southern Arizona,

which shares a border with Mexico, is as far north as many species of birds are

ever seen in North America. Consequently, this is one of the best birding

regions in the entire country. In Ramsey Canyon alone, more than a dozen

hummingbird species gather in summer. See the map “Arizona Birding Guide”

on p. 540.

5

1 THE best FOOD & DRINK

EXPERIENCES

Going native with a fry-bread taco (Phoenix and the Four Corners): Unless

you’ve traveled in the Southwest before, you’ve probably never had a fry-bread

taco. This stick-to-your-ribs dish is a staple on Indian reservations throughout

Arizona, but the fry-bread tacos at Phoenix’s Fry Bread House restaurant are

among the best I’ve had anywhere in the state. See p. 129.

Molecular gastronomy at Binkley’s (Cave Creek): Serving dishes the likes

of which you have probably never seen or tasted before, Binkley’s is the most

adventurous restaurant in Arizona. Each dish served in the multicourse meals

here is a work of art packed with flavors and textures. See p. 122.

Chowing down at a cowboy steakhouse (Phoenix, Cottonwood, and Tuc-

son): No family should visit Arizona without spending an evening at a “genu-

ine” cowboy steakhouse. With false-fronted buildings, country bands,

The Best Food & Drink Experiences

gunslingers, and gimmicks (one place cuts off your necktie, another has a

slide from the bar to the dining room), these eateries are all entertainment

and loads of fun. See p. 133 and

430.

RIZONA

Dinner at the Turquoise Room

A

(Winslow): This restaurant serves

OF

dishes that incorporate both Mexi-

can and Native American influ-

EST

ences and conjures up the days

B

when the wealthy still traveled by

HET

railroad. Rarely will you find such

superb meals in such an off-the-

beaten-path locale. See p. 315.

top: The best fry-bread tacos in the state are at Fry Bread House in Phoenix. bottom: Beef, air-dried on the restaurant’s roof, goes into El Charro Café’s carne seca.

6

Discovering that carne seca (dry meat) tastes way better than it sounds 1

(Tucson): Nothing sums up Tucson-style Mexican food quite like the carne

seca served at El Charro Café. Carne seca, which is a bit like shredded beef THE

jerky in a spicy sauce, is made from strips of beef that air-dry on the roof of

B

this restaurant. See p. 117.

EST

Savoring Sonoran hot dogs (Tucson): Ever had a Mexican hot dog? No?

Well, here’s your chance. Wrapped in bacon, topped with beans and salsa,

OF

and known locally as Sonoran dogs, the pups served at Tucson’s El Guero

A

Canelo, a big Mexican fast-food joint, are legendary. See p. 422.

RIZONA

Upscale southwestern cuisine at Janos/J Bar (Tucson): Serving a combina-

tion of French-inspired regional and Southwestern dishes, Janos has long

been one of Tucson’s premier restaurants. While Janos is as formal a place as

you’ll find in this city, J Bar is a more casual bar and grill. See p. 425 and 427.

The Best W

Sampling traditional desert dishes (Sells): The Desert Rain Café, an hour

west of Tucson on the Tohono O’odham reservation, serves simple dishes

made with traditional ingredients including tepary beans, cholla cactus buds,

and prickly-pear syrup. If you’re on the way to or from Organ Pipe Cactus

ays to See Arizona Like a Local

National Monument, Desert Rain should not be missed. See p. 465.

THE best WAYS TO SEE

ARIZONA LIKE A LOCAL

Stay at a resort in the summer (Phoenix and Tucson): With temperatures

regularly topping 110 degrees Fahrenheit, summer might not seem like the

best time to visit Phoenix or Tucson, but locals know that there are smokin’

deals to be had in the hotter months. See chapters 4 and 9.

Join the hard-body hordes hik-

ing Camelback Mountain (Phoe-

nix): For many Phoenicians, the

trail to the top of Camelback

Mountain is a ritual, a Phoenix

institution. Sure, there are those

who make this a casual but strenu-

ous hike, but many more turn it

into a serious workout by jogging

to the top and back down. I prefer

a more leisurely approach so that I

can enjoy the views. See p. 106.

Visit the Arizona wine country

(Cottonwood and Sonoita): Ari-

zona may never be as famous for

its wines as California, but it does

make wines that can hold their

own against Napa Valley. The

state’s two main wine-touring

regions are the Verde Valley near

Sedona and the Sonoita area

southeast of Tucson. See p. 217 Frank Lloyd Wright’s design is evident

and 476.

throughout the Arizona Biltmore.

7

1

Head to the Grand Canyon via the east entrance (Grand Canyon): Arizo-

nans are always quick to tell visiting friends and neighbors to avoid the south

entrance of Grand Canyon National Park, and you should definitely follow

the locals’ lead. Head to the east entrance and you’ll avoid the traffic jams and

crowds that congregate at Grand Canyon Village. See p. 247.

Do an early morning hike in the Santa Catalina Mountains (Tucson): One

of the best ways to see Arizona like a local is to get up early, and no place is

this better advice than on the scenic desert trails that lead into the Santa

Catalina Mountains from Tucson’s northern suburbs. See p. 412.

Take in the sunset at Tucson’s Gates Pass (Tucson): While peach, plum,

and tangerine may sound like a fruit salad, they’re actually colors you can

expect to see in a desert sunset. Tucsonans wanting to impress friends, rela-

The Best Family Experiences

tives, and sweethearts bring them to see the sunsets at Gates Pass. See p. 404.

Spend a weekend in Bisbee (Bisbee): Once a booming copper-mining town,

Bisbee is now a favorite weekend getaway for Arizonans. High enough to be

cool in the summer, this historic town spills across steep canyon walls and is

packed with funky shops and even funkier locals, many of whom are artists.

RIZONA A

See p. 491.

Go water skiing on Lake Havasu (Lake Havasu City): Hot summers and

OF

cool waters combine to make Lake Havasu one of Arizona’s most popular

EST

boating lakes. You can rent a ski boat in Lake Havasu City and learn firsthand

B

why this is such a popular spring-break “beach” destination. See p. 297.

HET

THE best FAMILY EXPERIENCES

Spending time by the pool (Phoenix and Tucson): With impressive resort

pools in both the Phoenix and Tucson areas, Arizona is a hot place to keep

cool. Quite a few resorts even have impressive (and fun) water slides and tub-

ing “rivers.” There are big water parks in both cities as well. See p. 110.

Saddling up on a dude ranch: Ride off into the sunset with your family at

one of Arizona’s many dude ranches (now called guest ranches). Most ranches

have lots of special programs for kids. See “Where to Stay” choices throughout

this book.

Rawhide at Wild Horse Pass (Phoenix): Your kids can climb atop a mechani-

cal bull, catch a stunt show, watch a real gunslinger, or ride in a stagecoach or

train. After all this activity, you’ll want to head to Rawhide’s steakhouse. See

p. 95.

Goldfield Ghost Town (Apache Junction): Although it may look a little too

contrived these days, Goldfield really was a mining town at one time. Today,

you can take a tour of the old mine, learn about the legend of the Lost Dutch-

man Mine, and otherwise have a thoroughly Wild West experience. See p. 96.

Grand Canyon Railway: Not only is this train excursion a fun way to get to

the Grand Canyon, but it also lets you avoid the parking problems and con-

gestion that can be so wearisome. Along the way, there’s plenty of Western

entertainment to lend a little local interest to the journey. See p. 293.

Floating on a houseboat: Renting a floating vacation home on lakes Powell,

Mead, or Mohave is a summer vacation tradition for many Arizona families.

8

With a houseboat, you aren’t tied

1

to one spot and can cruise from

one scenic beach to the next. See

THE

p. 358.

B

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

EST

(Tucson): This is actually a zoo fea-

turing the animals of the Sonoran

OF

Desert. Exhibits include rooms

A

full of snakes, a prairie-dog town,

RIZONA

enclosures that are home to big-

horn sheep and mountain lions,

and an aviary full of humming-

birds. Kids and adults love this

The Best Hiking Experiences

place. See p. 402.

A day at Old Tucson Studios

(Tucson): Cowboy shootouts, can-

can girls, and horseback rides

make this old movie-studio set

loads of fun for the family. You

might even get to see a movie or Catch live cowboy action at Old Tucson Studios.

commercial being filmed. See

p. 403.

THE best HIKING EXPERIENCES

Peralta Trail (east of Phoenix in the Superstition Mountains): This moder-

ately difficult trail through the rugged Superstition Mountains will lead you to

one of the most astonishing views in the state. Hike the trail on a weekday to

avoid the crowds. See p. 108.

Picacho Peak State Park (south of Casa Grande): The hike up this central

Arizona landmark is short but strenuous, and from the top there are superb

views out over the desert. The best time of year to make the hike is in spring,

when the peak is painted with wildflowers. Picacho Peak is between Casa

Grande and Tucson just off I-10. See p. 97.

Bell Rock/Courthouse Butte Loop Trail (Sedona): There simply is no better

introduction to Sedona’s myriad red-rock hiking opportunities than this easy

4-mile loop hike. The trail begins right on Ariz. 179 in the Village of Oak

Creek, which is a few miles south of Sedona. Views, views, views! Unfortu-

nately, though, there are plenty of other hikers, too. See p. 211.

The South Kaibab Trail (Grand Canyon South Rim): Forget the popular

Bright Angel Trail, which, near its start, is a human highway. The South Kai-

bab Trail offers better views to day hikers and is the preferred downhill route

for anyone heading to Phantom Ranch for the night. This is a strenuous hike

even if you go only a mile or so down the trail. Remember, the trip back is all

uphill. See p. 259.

The White House Ruins Trail (Canyon de Chelly National Monument):

There’s only one Canyon de Chelly hike that the general public can take with-

out a Navajo guide, and that’s the 2.5-mile trail to White House Ruins, a small

site once inhabited by Ancestral Puebloans (formerly called Anasazis). The

9

1

trail leads from the canyon rim

across bare sandstone, through a

tunnel, and down to the floor of

the canyon. See p. 337.

The Wildcat Trail (Monument

Valley Navajo Tribal Park): As at

Canyon de Chelly, there’s only one

trail at Monument Valley that you

can hike without a guide. This easy

3.2-mile trail loops around West

The Best Scenic Drives

Mitten Butte, providing a close-up

look at one of the most photo-

graphed rock formations in the

West. Don’t miss this hike. See Heart of Rocks Trail.

p. 345.

RIZONA

The Seven Falls Trail (Tucson): There is something irresistible about water-

A

falls in the desert, and on this trail you get more than enough falls to satisfy

OF

any craving to cool off on a hot desert day. The Seven Falls Trail is in the

EST

Sabino Canyon Recreation Area in northeast Tucson. See p. 412.

B

The Heart of Rocks Trail (Cochise County): While the national parks and

HE

monuments in northern Arizona get all the publicity, Chiricahua National

T

Monument, down in the southeast corner of the state, quietly lays claim to

some of the most spectacular scenery in Arizona. On this trail, you’ll hike

through a wonderland of rocks. See p. 501.

THE best SCENIC DRIVES

The Apache Trail (Ariz. 88 east of Phoenix): Much of this winding road,

which passes just north of the Superstition Mountains, is unpaved and fol-

lows a rugged route once traveled by Apaches. This is some of the most

A drive along Oak Creek Canyon showcases the region’s diverse scenery.

10

1

THE

BEST

OF

ARIZONA

The Best Scenic Drives

The snow-covered Mount Lemmon in Tucson.

remote country in the Phoenix area, with far-reaching desert vistas and lots to

see and do along the way. See p. 175.

Red Rock Scenic Byway (Ariz. 179 south of Sedona): The drive into Sedona

from the south is one of the most unforgettable experiences in Arizona. For

7.5 miles, between the Village of Oak Creek and Sedona, Ariz. 179 winds past

towering red-rock mesas and buttes. Pull-offs along the route let you stop to

soak up the views. See p. 211.

Fredonia–Vermilion Cliffs Scenic Road (U.S. 89A from Bitter Springs to

Fredonia): Crossing the Colorado River on the 467-foot-high Navajo Bridge

before passing the aptly named Vermilion Cliffs, this route climbs high into

the pine forests of the Kaibab Plateau. From Jacob Lake, Ariz. 67 heads south

to the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. See p. 273.

Historic Route 66 (Ariz. 66 from Ash Fork to Topock): Not so much a scenic

road as a road to the past, Route 66 once stretched from Chicago to Los Ange-

les. Today, the longest extant stretch of the famous highway is in northern

Arizona, and along the route, there are many signs of the highway’s heyday.

See chapter 6.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument (Chinle): This fascinating complex

of canyons on the Navajo Indian Reservation has limited public access

because it is still home to numerous Navajo families. However, roads that

parallel the north and south rims of the canyon provide lots of scenic over-

looks. See p. 334.

Kayenta–Monument Valley Scenic Road (U.S. 163): While Monument Val-

ley, at the northern end of this scenic route, is one of the most otherworldly

landscapes in the country, the route north from Kayenta is plenty scenic in its

own right. You’ll pass the impressive Agathla Peak and other noteworthy rock

outcrops. See p. 348.

Coronado Trail Scenic Byway (U.S. 191 from Clifton/Morenci to Springer-

ville/Eagar): Following the route of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado’s 1540

expedition, this mountain road stretches for 123 miles and includes 400

switchbacks. With all its twists and turns, this road is not for anyone who is

subject to car sickness. See p. 375.

11

1

Sky Island Scenic Byway (Tucson): The Santa Catalina Mountains rise from

the Sonoran Desert lowlands like an island rising from the sea, and this wind-

ing mountain road climbs from the cactus country of the Tucson foothills to

the cool pine forests atop Mount Lemmon. Along the route are numerous

vista points. See p. 412.

THE best offbeat TRAVEL

ravel Experiences

EXPERIENCES

Pinning a dollar to the wall at Tortilla Flat (east of Phoenix): Tortilla Flat is

fbeat T

a former stagecoach stop on the Apache Trail scenic road, and it has become

a tradition among customers to tack a dollar bill to the wall each time they

visit. The walls are now papered with money. See p. 175.

Listening your way through the Musical Instrument Museum (Phoenix):

The Best Of

This huge museum houses thousands of musical instruments from all over

the world. There are galleries organized by countries and continents, as well

as exhibits of such rare instruments as the first Steinway piano ever made and

the Steinway on which John Lennon composed “Imagine.” See p. 90.

Taking a vortex tour in Sedona: Crystals and pyramids are nothing com-

RIZONA

pared to the power of the Sedona vortexes, which just happen to be in the

A

middle of some very beautiful scenery. Organized tours shuttle believers from

OF

one vortex to the next. If you offer it, they will come. See p. 212.

EST

Gazing at the stars: Insomniacs and stargazers will find plenty to keep them

B

sleepless in the desert as they peer at the stars through telescopes at Lowell

HE

Observatory in Flagstaff or Kitt Peak National Observatory near Tucson.

T

North of Flagstaff, you can even stay at a B&B that doubles as an astronomi-

cal observatory. See p. 290.

Sleeping in a wigwam: Back in the heyday of Route 66, the Wigwam Motel

in Holbrook lured passing motorists with its unusual architecture: concrete,

Guests sleep in tepees at the Wigwam Motel in Holbrook.

12

wigwam-shaped cabins. Today, this little motel is still a must for anyone on a 1

Route 66 pilgrimage. See p. 330.

Putting your finger on the button at the Titan Missile Museum: How does

THE

it feel to have your finger on “the button”? At this former ICBM missile silo,

B

now decommissioned and open to the public, you can find out. See p. 407.

EST

Stopping to smell the roses of the world’s largest rose plant: The town of

OF

Tombstone in southeastern Arizona is best known as the site of the shootout

at the O.K. Corral, but the “town too tough to die” is also home to the world’s

ARIZONA

largest rose tree. See p. 488.

Sleeping in a vintage travel trailer (Bisbee): At Bisbee’s funky little Shady

Dell Trailer Court, you can stay in a restored travel trailer from the 1950s.

Then again, you could stay in a 1947 Chris Craft yacht or a converted 1947

bus that’s been done up in tiki chic. See p. 497.

The Best W

THE best WILD WEST

EXPERIENCES

ild W

Having a drink at the Palace Saloon (Prescott): Push through the swinging

est Experiences

saloon doors and step back to 1877 at the historic Palace Saloon on Prescott’s

infamous Whiskey Row. You might even bump into a cowpoke with six-

shooter on his hip. See p. 195.

Whooping it up at a rodeo: Any rodeo, and this state has plenty, will give you

a glimpse of the Old West, but the rodeos in Prescott and Payson both claim

to be the oldest in the country. Whichever rodeo you attend, you’ll see plenty

of bronco busting, bull riding, and beer drinking. See p. 187 and 363.

Riding the range at a guest ranch: Yes, there are still cowboys in Arizona,

and they ride ranges all over the state. You can too if you book a stay at one of

Arizona’s many guest ranches. After a day in the saddle, you can often opt to

soak in a hot tub or go for a swim before chowing down. See chapters 5, 8, 9,

and 10.

Exploring Monument Valley (north of Kayenta): John Ford made it the hall-

mark of his Western movies, and no wonder: The starkly beautiful and fantas-

tically shaped buttes and mesas of this valley are the quintessential Western

landscape. You’ll recognize Monument Valley the moment you see it. See

p. 343.

Walking the streets of Old Tucson Studios (Tucson): Originally constructed

as a movie set, this back lot and amusement park provides visitors with a

glimpse of the most familiar Old West—the Hollywood West. Sure, the

shootouts and cancan revues are silly, but it’s all in good fun. See p. 403.

Attending a cowboy poetry festival: From heroes on horseback to poets on

the prairie, it’s been a long, lonesome ride for the American cowboy. At several

events around the state, you can hear how some cowboys deal with the hard-

ships and happiness of the cowboy life. See “Arizona Calendar of Events” in

chapter 2.

Shootouts at the O.K. Corral (Tombstone): Tombstone may be “the town

too tough to die,” but Ike Clanton and the McLaury boys have to die over and

over again at the daily reenactments of Tombstone’s famous gunfight. Take a

13

1

e Indian Ruins

Monument Valley.

stagecoach ride, tour Boot Hill Graveyard, visit a museum, and have a drink

The Best Places to Explor

in a saloon. See p. 488.

Learn how to be a real cowboy (Scottsdale): Why settle for just ridin’ the

range at a dude ranch when you can learn how to be a real cowboy at the Ari-

zona Cowboy College. Don’t worry; it’s not a 4-year degree program. See

RIZONA

p. 544.

A

OF

THE best PLACES TO EXPLORE

EST B INDIAN RUINS

HE

T

Tonto National Monument (east of Phoenix): Reached via the Apache Trail

Scenic Road, this archaeological site has one of Arizona’s only easily accessi-

ble cliff dwellings where visitors are allowed to walk around inside the ruins,

albeit under the watchful eye of a ranger. See p. 176.

Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeological Park (Globe): These reconstructed ruins

have been set up to look the way they might have appeared 700 years ago.

Consequently, this park provides a bit more cultural context than is to be

found at other ruins in the state. See p. 177.

Casa Grande Ruins National Monument (west of Florence): Unlike most of

Arizona’s other ruins, which are constructed primarily of stone, this large and

unusual structure is built of packed desert soil. Inscrutable and perplexing,

Casa Grande seems to rise from nowhere. See p. 96.

Montezuma Castle National Monument (north of Camp Verde): Located

just off I-17, this is the most easily accessible cliff dwelling in Arizona,

although it cannot be entered. Nearby Montezuma Well also has some small

ruins. See p. 203.

14

Palatki Heritage Site (Sedona): Small and off the beaten path, these pueblo 1

ruins tucked under a red-rock cliff west of Sedona have a hidden feel that

lends an air of discovery to a visit. Because Palatki is down a dirt road and has

THE

limited parking available, the site is never crowded. See p. 213.

B

Wupatki National Monument (north of Flagstaff): Not nearly as well known

EST

as the region’s Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings, these ruins are set on a wide

plain. A ball court similar to those found in Mexico and Central America hints

OF

at cultural ties with Mesoamerican cultures such as the Aztecs. See p. 284.

ARIZONA

Canyon de Chelly National Monument (Chinle): Small cliff dwellings up

and down the length of Canyon de Chelly can be seen from overlooks, and a

trip into the canyon itself offers a chance to see some of these ruins up close.

See p. 334.

Navajo National Monument (west of Kayenta): Keet Seel and Betatakin, the

The Best Places to Explor

two main ruins here, are some of the finest examples of Ancestral Puebloan

cliff dwellings in the state. Although the ruins are at the end of long hikes,

their size and state of preservation make them well worth the effort. See

p. 341.

e Indian Ruins

Casa Grande Ruins National Monument.

15

2

ARIZONA

IN DEPTH

Despite the searing summer temperatures, the desolate

deserts, and the lack of water, people have been drawn

to Arizona for hundreds of years. In the 16th century, the

Spanish came looking for gold, but settled on saving

souls. In the 19th century, despite frightful tales of spiny 2

cactus forests, ranchers drove their cattle into the region and discovered

ARIZONA

that a few corners of the state actually had lush grasslands. At the same

time, sidetracked forty-niners were scouring the hills for gold (and found

IN

more than the Spanish did). However, boomtowns—both cattle and min-

D

ing—soon went bust. Despite occasional big strikes, mining didn’t prove

EPTH

itself until the early 20th century, and even then, the mother lode was

neither gold nor silver, but copper, which Arizona has in such abundance

Intr

that it is known as the Copper State.

oduction

In the 1920s and 1930s, Arizona struck a new source of gold: sunshine. The rail-

roads had made travel to the state easy, and word of the mild winter climate

spread to colder corners of the nation. Among the first “vacationers” were people

suffering from tuberculosis. These “lungers,” as they were known, rested and

recuperated in the dry desert air. It didn’t take long for the perfectly healthy to

realize that they, too, could avail themselves of Arizona’s sunshine, and wintering

in the desert soon became fashionable with wealthy Northerners.

Today, it’s still the golden sun that lures people to Arizona, and Scottsdale,

Phoenix, Tucson, and Sedona are home to some of the most luxurious and expen-

sive resorts in the country. Then there are those who come to Arizona on vacation

and decide to make the move permanent. In the past half-century, the state has

seen a massive influx of retirees, many of whom have found the few pockets of

Arizona where the climate is absolutely perfect—not too hot, not too cold, and

with plenty of sunshine.

Although the weather is a big draw, it’s the Grand Canyon that attracts the

most visitors to Arizona. However, the state has plenty of other natural wonders

as well. The earth’s best-preserved meteorite crater, the Painted Desert, the spec-

tacular red-rock country of Sedona, the sandstone buttes of Monument Valley,

and “forests” of saguaro cacti are just a few examples.

The human hand has also left its mark on Arizona. More than 1,000 years

ago, the Ancestral Puebloans (formerly called Anasazis), Sinagua, and Hohokam

tribes built villages on mesas, in valleys, and in the steep cliff walls of deep canyons. In more recent years, much larger structures have risen in canyons across

the state. The Hoover and Glen Canyon dams on the Colorado River are among

the largest dams in the country and have created the nation’s largest and most

spectacular reservoirs, although at the expense of the rich riparian areas that

previous page: A Native American man participates in a dance at a powwow.

17

once thrived in the now-flooded desert canyons. Today, these reservoirs are

among the state’s most popular destinations, especially with Arizonans.

Just as compelling as Arizona’s sunshine, resorts, and reservoirs are the tall

tales of the state’s fascinating history. This is the Wild West, the land of cowboys and Indians, of prospectors and ghost towns, coyotes and rattlesnakes. Scratch

2 the glossy surface of modern, urbanized Arizona, and you’ll strike real gold—the

story of the American West.

ARIZONA TODAY

oday

Just as the promise of silver and gold once lured prospectors, just as the promise

of vast grasslands once lured cowboys, just as dry desert air once lured tubercu-

losis sufferers, the sun lures the winter-weary to Arizona. This state is solidly a

Arizona T part of the Sunbelt, the region of the southern United States that stretches from coast to coast and is characterized by sunshine and warm temperatures for much

of the year. Before the current recession hit, when the economy was booming,

Phoenix was one of the fastest-growing cities in America. Vast tracts of desert

EPTH D sprouted housing developments and shopping malls. However, just as mining

towns such as Tombstone, Bisbee, and Jerome went bust, Arizona’s economic

IN

forecast turned from sunny to gray and gloomy with the collapse of the housing

market.

Because Arizona built so much of its recent economic wealth on the con-

RIZONAA

struction of new homes, when the housing and lending markets crashed, the

state saw its tax revenues plummet. By 2010, Arizona was struggling to stay sol-

vent. With high unemployment, high mortgage foreclosure rates, high taxes, and

cuts in state services, it isn’t surprising that Arizona citizens would look around

for someone on whom to blame the state’s woes. Illegal immigrants felt the brunt

of the anger and frustration when, in April 2010, the Arizona state legislature

passed the toughest immigration law in the nation. The new law made it a crime

for illegal immigrants to be in the state and required law-enforcement officers to

ask suspected illegal immigrants for documentation proving they have a right to

Casinos help bring money into Arizona’s Indian reservations.

18

be in the United States. Proponents of

the law said the federal government

wasn’t doing enough to secure the U.S.

border. Critics said that the law would

lead to racial profiling and that anyone

who looked Hispanic would be tar-

geted by law-enforcement officers. By 2

July 2010, the law was already being

A

challenged in court, and in late 2011,

RIZONA

the U.S. Supreme Court agreed to hear

the case challenging the legality of cer-

tain provisions of the law. However,

IN

although the law was criticized across

D

the nation and across the globe, it was

EPTH

popular enough among Arizona citi-

zens that, in the wake of its passage,

the state reelected Gov. Jan Brewer,

who had signed the legislation into law.

Arizona T

In that same 2010 election, conserva-

tive candidates, including several sup-

ported by the controversial Tea Party,

oday

The state’s landscape is dwindling due to

won enough races to give Arizona one

rapid development.

of the most conservative legislatures in

the country.

The international news spotlight once again focused on Arizona when, on

January 8, 2011, a gunman killed 6 people and wounded 13 others, including

Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords, in front of a grocery store in Tucson. This

tragic shooting, which some linked to heated and contentious political rhetoric,

brought renewed attention to Arizona and its lenient gun laws. Carrying an

openly displayed firearm in public is legal in Arizona, and, as of 2010, a license is no longer required for carrying a concealed weapon. In 2012, the conservative

legislature once again proposed loosening the state’s already liberal gun laws, this time to allow students to carry guns into college classrooms. Some people believe

such laws make Arizona safer, while others contend it is just the opposite.

If all this has you wondering if this state is big enough for both you and the

state’s highly vocal gun advocates, don’t worry; you won’t have to get out of town

before sundown. It’s okay. Corral your apprehensions. Chances are the only guns

you’ll see will be on actors performing staged shootouts in the streets of Tomb-

stone or Old Tucson Studios. You are likely, however, to see a few modern-day

outlaw wannabes. As glorified in countless Hollywood westerns, the cowboy and

the outlaw are iconic images of the Wild West. While most people the world over

associate these characters with the 19th century, in Arizona they are alive and

well. Visit one of the state’s resuscitated ghost towns on any weekend, and you

will see ranks of Harley-Davidsons (today’s trusty steed of choice) lined up in

front of one bar or another. However, take a look at the motorcycle riders, and

what you’ll see are mostly old gray-haired guys, often highly paid professionals,

who are busy living out their fantasies of being real outlaws, at least until Monday when they have to go back to the office.

Obviously, Arizona is still struggling to strike a balance between the new

West and the Old West. Hopis still perform their age-old dances atop their

19

mesas, while in Phoenix and Tucson, hipsters dance to the latest techno beats.

Stoic wranglers are still at home on the range, but they’re as likely to be leading

city slickers on a staged cattle drive as to be scouring the scrublands for wayward

longhorn steers. There are still working cattle ranches all over the state, but the

word “ranch” is just as likely to show up in the name of a new subdivision full of

2 multimillion-dollar winter homes for wealthy retirees from colder climes.

This struggle between the old and new has been going on in one way or

another since the Spanish first arrived in the region in the 16th century. Then,

and for more than 300 years after the arrival of the Spanish, the struggle was

oday

between settlers and Native Americans. For Arizona’s Native Americans, the days

of the Wild West were days of hardship and misery, and today the state’s many

tribes continue to strive for the sort of economic well-being enjoyed by the state’s non-native population. Traditional ways still survive, but tribes are struggling to

Arizona T preserve their unique cultures—languages, religious beliefs, ceremonies, livelihoods, and architecture.

Arizona is home to the largest Indian reservation in the country—the Navajo

EPTH

Nation—as well as nearly two dozen smaller reservations. Poverty, unemploy-

D

ment, and alcoholism are major problems on many of these reservations. How-

IN

ever, several of the state’s tribes have, through their arts and crafts, managed to

both preserve some of their traditional culture and share it with non-natives.

Today, however, many non-natives visit reservations not out of an interest in

learning about another culture, but rather to gamble. Throughout the state, there

RIZONAA

are numerous tribal casinos, and despite the controversies surrounding such

enterprises, many Native peoples are finally seeing some income on their once-

impoverished reservations.

Many of the people who visit these new casinos are retirees, who are among

the fastest-growing segment of Arizona’s population. Each winter, the state’s mild

climate attracts hundreds of thousands of retirees from colder parts of the United

States and Canada. Many of these winter residents, known as snowbirds, park

their RVs outside such warm spots as Yuma and Quartzsite. Others have winter

homes in the state, and still others have settled permanently in retirement com-

munities such as Sun City and Green Valley.

This graying of the population, combined with strong ranching and mining

industries, has made Arizona one of the most conservative states. Although by

today’s standards Barry Goldwater could almost be considered a liberal, his con-

servative politics were so much a part of the Arizona mind-set that the state kept

him in the Senate for 30 years. The town of Paradise Valley even has a small park

dedicated to him.

Arizona’s environmental politics are some of the most contentious in the

country and have been for decades. There are heated debates going on over man-

aged flooding of the Colorado River within Grand Canyon National Park, ura-

nium mining adjacent to the Grand Canyon, and the ongoing destruction of

desert habitat as the Phoenix and Tucson metropolitan areas continue to sprawl.

Although many people think of the desert as a wasteland in need of transforma-

tion, others see it as a fragile ecosystem that has been endangered by the

encroachment of civilization. Saguaro cacti throughout the state are protected by

law, but the deserts they grow in are not.

In many parts of the Tucson metropolitan area, houses have been built right

up to the edge of national forest lands. The consequences of creating such a stark

line between wild and developed lands came to the forefront of the news in

20

2004, when mountain lions moved into the popular Sabino Canyon recreation

area and were even seen on the grounds of a public school. The presence of the

big cats caused the immediate closure of Sabino Canyon and other nearby trails

into the national forest. Today, when you visit Sabino Canyon and other natural

areas around the state, you’ll be warned repeatedly about the presence of moun-

tain lions in the area.

Way up at the north end of the state, remote Grand Canyon National Park 2

has long suffered from its own popularity. With more than four million visitors a

A

year, the park has for many years seen summer traffic jams and parking problems

RIZONA

that often made a visit an exercise in patience. To help alleviate congestion and

air pollution, the national park now uses alternative-fuel buses to transport visi-

tors to and around the South Rim and Grand Canyon Village.

IN

Efforts at preserving the state’s environment make it clear that Arizonans

D

value the outdoors, but a ski boat in every driveway doesn’t mean the arts are

EPTH

ignored. Although it hasn’t been too many years since evening entertainment in

Arizona meant dance-hall girls or a harmonica by the campfire, Phoenix and Tuc-

son have become centers for the performing arts. The two cities share an opera

company, a ballet company, and a theater company, and the Valley of the Sun is

The Making of Arizona

home to several symphony orchestras and numerous theater companies.

The arts, though, are often overshadowed by the Phoenix area’s obsession

with professional sports. Downtown Phoenix has positioned itself as the state’s

primary sports and entertainment mecca, with Chase Field, US Airways Center,

and numerous sports bars and nightclubs. However, it isn’t just downtown Phoe-

nix that is big on professional sports. The city of Glendale, west of Phoenix, is

now home to both University of Phoenix Stadium, where the NFL’s Arizona Car-

dinals play football, and the Jobing.com Arena, where the NHL’s Phoenix Coy-

otes play professional hockey. In addition, 15 professional baseball teams have

their spring training camps in the Phoenix area.

Suburban sprawl has long been a fact of life in the Phoenix area, but there

are signs that even Phoenicians are tiring of the metro area’s never-ending expan-

sion. Inner-city Phoenix neighborhoods have been rediscovered, and many old

homes have now been restored. Although construction has been slow since 2009,

hip loft-style condominiums have been built near downtown Phoenix, and a

trendy, urban art scene now flourishes in long-abandoned commercial and indus-

trial neighborhoods in downtown Phoenix. The city even has a light-rail line.

The urban vibe that has taken hold in the Phoenix metro area is most evi-

dent in downtown Scottsdale, which is home to several hip hotels, including a W

Hotel. Scottsdale also has one of the hottest nightlife scenes between Miami and

Los Angeles, and high-style bars and clubs attempt to outdo each other with their

daring interior decors. What’s a cowboy to do?

THE MAKING OF ARIZONA

EARLY HISTORY Within the boundaries of Arizona can be found the archaeo-

logical remains of North America’s oldest cultures and one of the two lon-

gest continuously inhabited settlements in the United States—the Hopi

village of Oraibi, which has had inhabitants for roughly 1,000 years. How-

ever, the region’s human habitation dates back more than 11,000 years, to

the time when Paleo-Indians known as the Clovis people inhabited south-

eastern Arizona. Stone tools and arrowheads of the type credited to the Clo-

vis have been found in southeastern Arizona, and a mammoth-kill site has

21

2

The Making of Arizona A Hopi girl getting her hair styled in 1909.

EPTH D

become an important source of information about these people, who were

IN

among the earliest inhabitants of North America.

Few records exist of the next 9,000 years of Arizona’s prehistory, but by

about a.d. 200, wandering bands of hunter-gatherers took up residence in

RIZONA

Canyon de Chelly in the northern part of the state. Today these early Arizo-

A

nans are known as the Ancestral Puebloans. The earliest Ancestral Puebloan

period, stretching from a.d. 200 to 700, is defined as the Basket Maker

period because of the large number of baskets that have been found in ruins

from this time. During the Basket Maker period, the Ancestral Puebloans

gave up hunting and gathering and took up agriculture, growing corn, beans,

squash, and cotton on the canyon floors in northeastern Arizona.

During the Pueblo period, which spanned from 700 to 1300, the

Ancestral Puebloans began building multistory pueblos and cliff dwellings.

However, despite decades of research, it is still not clear why the Ancestral

Puebloans began living in niches and caves high on the cliff walls of the

region’s canyons. It may have been to conserve farmland as their population

grew and required larger harvests or for protection from flash floods. What-

ever the reason the cliff dwellings were originally constructed, they were all

abandoned by 1300. It’s unclear why the villages were abandoned, but a

study of tree rings indicates that the region experienced a severe drought

between 1276 and 1299, which suggests the Ancestral Puebloans may have

left in search of more fertile farmland. Keet Seel and Betatakin, at Navajo

National Monument, as well as the many ruins in Canyon de Chelly, are

Arizona’s best-preserved Ancestral Puebloan sites.

During the Ancestral Puebloan Basket Maker period, the Sinagua cul-

ture began to develop in the fertile plateau northeast of present-day Flag-

staff and southward into the Verde River valley. The Sinagua, whose name

is Spanish for “without water,” built their stone pueblos primarily on hills

and mesas such as those at Tuzigoot near Clarkdale and Wupatki near Flag-

staff, both now preserved as national monuments. They also built cliff

22

dwellings in places such as Walnut Canyon and Montezuma Castle, both

also national monuments. By the mid–13th century, Wupatki had been

abandoned, and by the early 15th century, Walnut Canyon and pueblos in

the lower Verde Valley region had also been deserted.

As early as a.d. 450, the Hohokam culture, from which the Sinagua

most likely learned irrigation, had begun to farm the Gila and Salt River val-

leys between Phoenix and Casa Grande. Over a period of 1,000 years, they 2

constructed a 600-mile network of irrigation canals, some of which can still

A

be seen today. However, because the Hohokam built their homes of earth,

RIZONA

few structures exist from this period. One exception is the Casa Grande ruin,

a massive earth-walled building that has been well preserved and is now a

national monument. There are also many Hohokam petroglyph (rock art)

IN

sites that are a lasting reminder of the people who first made the desert flour-

D

ish. By the 1450s, however, the Hohokam had abandoned their villages, and

EPTH

today many archaeologists believe that the irrigation of desert soil for hun-

dreds of years may have left a thick crust of alkali in farm fields, which would

have made further farming impossible. The disappearance of the Hohokam

is commemorated in the tribe’s name, which, in the language of today’s

The Making of Arizona

Tohono O’odham people, means “the people who have vanished.”

HISPANIC HERITAGE The first Europeans to visit the region may have been a

motley crew of shipwrecked Spaniards, among whom was a black man

named Estévan de Dorantes. This unfortunate group spent 8 years wander-

ing across the Southwest, and when they arrived back in Spanish territory,

they told a fantastic story of having seen seven cities so rich that the inhabit-

ants even decorated their doorways with jewels. No one is sure whether

they actually passed through Arizona, but in 1539 their story convinced the

viceroy of New Spain (Mexico) to send a small expedition, led by Father

Marcos de Niza and Estévan de Dorantes, into the region. Father de Niza’s

report of finding the fabled Seven Cities of Cíbola inspired Don Francisco

This Navajo pictograph in Canyon de Chelly shows invading Spanish horsemen.

23

Vásquez de Coronado to set off in search of wealth in 1540. Instead of fabu-

lously wealthy cities, however, Coronado found only pueblos of stone and

mud. A subordinate expedition led by Garcia Lopez de Cárdenas stumbled

upon the Grand Canyon, while another group of Coronado’s men, led by

Don Pedro de Tovar, visited the Hopi mesas.

2

In the 150 years that followed, only a handful of Spanish explorers,

friars, and settlers visited Arizona. In the 1580s and 1600s, Antonio de

Espejo and Juan de Oñate explored northern and central Arizona and found

indications that there were mineral riches in the region. In the 1670s, the

Franciscans founded several missions among the Hopi pueblos, but the

Pueblo Revolt of 1680 obliterated this small Spanish presence.

In 1687, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, a German-educated Italian

Jesuit, began establishing missions in the Sonoran Desert region of northern

New Spain. In 1691, he visited the Pima village of Tumacácori. Father Kino

taught the inhabitants European farming techniques, planted fruit trees,

and gave the Natives cattle, sheep, and goats to raise. However, it was not

The Making of Arizona

until 1751, in response to a Pima rebellion, that the permanent mission of

Tumacácori and the nearby presidio (military post) of Tubac were built.

Together these two Spanish outposts became the first permanent European

EPTH

settlements in what is today Arizona.

D

In 1775, a group of settlers led by Juan Bautista de Anza set out from

IN

Tubac to find an overland route to California, and in 1776, this group founded

the city of San Francisco. That same year, the Tubac presidio was moved to

Tucson. As early as 1692, Father Kino had visited the Tucson area and by 1700

had laid out the foundations for the first church at the mission of San Xavier

RIZONAA

del Bac. However, it was not until some time around 1783 that construction of

the present church, known as the White Dove of the Desert, began.

In 1821, Mexico won its independence from Spain, and Tucson, with

only 65 inhabitants, became part of Mexico. Mexico at that time extended

all the way to Northern California, but in 1848, most of this land, except for

a small section of southern Arizona that included Tucson, became U.S. ter-

ritory in the wake of the Mexican-American War. Five years later, in 1853,

Mexico sold the remainder of what is today southern Arizona to the United

States in a transaction known as the Gadsden Purchase.

INDIAN CONFLICTS At the time the Spanish arrived in Arizona, the tribes living

in the southern lowland deserts were peaceful farmers, but in the moun-

tains of the east lived the Apache, a hunting-and-gathering tribe that fre-

quently raided neighboring tribes. In the north, the Navajo, relatively recent

immigrants to the region, fought over land with the neighboring Ute and

Hopi (who were also fighting among themselves).

Coronado’s expedition through Arizona and into New Mexico and Kansas

was to seek gold. To that end he attacked one pueblo, killed the inhabitants of

another, and forced still others to abandon their villages. Spanish-Indian rela-

tions were never to improve, and the Spanish were forced to occupy their new

lands with a strong military presence. Around 1600, 300 Spanish settlers

moved into the Four Corners region, which at the time supported a large popu-

lation of Navajos. The Spanish raided Navajo villages to take slaves, and angry

Navajos responded by stealing Spanish horses and cattle.

For several decades in the mid-1600s, missionaries were tolerated in the

Hopi pueblos, but the Pueblo tribes revolted in 1680, killing the missionaries

24

and destroying the missions. Encroachment by farmers and miners moving

into the Santa Cruz Valley in the south caused the Pima people to stage a simi-

lar uprising in 1751, attacking and burning the mission at Tubac. This revolt

led to the establishment of the presidio at Tubac that same year. When the

military garrison moved to Tucson, Tubac was quickly abandoned because of

frequent raids by Apaches. In 1781, the Yuman tribe, whose land at the conflu-

ence of the Colorado and Gila rivers had become a Spanish settlement, staged

2

a similar uprising that wiped out the settlement at Yuma.

A

By the time Arizona became part of the United States, it was the Nava-

RIZONA

jos and Apaches who were proving most resistant to white settlers. In 1863,

the U.S. Army, under the leadership of Col. Kit Carson, forced the Navajo

to surrender by destroying their winter food supplies. The survivors were

IN

marched to an internment camp in New Mexico; the Navajo refer to this as

D

the Long Walk. Conditions at the camp in New Mexico were deplorable,

EPTH

and within 5 years the Navajo were returned to their land, although they

were forced to live on a reservation.

The Apaches resisted white settlement 20 years longer than the Navajo

did. Skillful guerrilla fighters, the Apaches, under the leadership of Geron-

The Making of Arizona

imo and Cochise, attacked settlers, forts, and towns despite the presence of

U.S. Army troops sent to protect the settlers. Geronimo and Cochise were

the leaders of the last resistant bands of rebellious Apaches. Cochise even-

tually died in his Chiricahua Mountains homeland. Geronimo finally sur-

rendered in 1886, and he and many of his followers were relocated to

Florida by the U.S. government. Open conflicts between whites and Indi-

ans finally came to an end.

TERRITORIAL DAYS In 1846, the United States went to war with Mexico, which

at the time extended all the way to Northern California and included parts

of Colorado, Wyoming, and New Mexico. When the war ended, the United

States claimed almost all the land extending from Texas to Northern

Mining towns sprung up after the discovery of gold and silver in Arizona, but it was copper that became the source of Arizona’s wealth.

25

California. This newly acquired land, called the New Mexico Territory, had

its capital at Santa Fe. The land south of the Gila River, which included

Tucson, was still part of Mexico, but when surveys determined that this

land was the best route for a railroad from Mississippi to California, the

U.S. government negotiated the Gadsden Purchase. In 1853, this land pur-

2

chase established the current Arizona-Mexico border.

When the California gold rush began in 1849, many hopeful miners

from the east crossed Arizona en route to the gold fields, and some stayed to

seek mineral riches in Arizona. However, despite the ever-increasing num-

bers of settlers, the U.S. Congress refused to create a separate Arizona Ter-

ritory. When the Civil War broke out, Arizonans, angered by Congress’s

inaction on their request to become a separate territory, sided with the Con-

federacy, and in 1862, Arizona was proclaimed the Confederate Territory of

Arizona. Although Union troops easily defeated the Confederate troops who

had occupied Tucson, this dissension convinced Congress, in 1863, to cre-

ate the Arizona Territory.

The Making of Arizona

The capital of the new territory was temporarily established at Fort

Whipple near Prescott, but later the same year was moved to Prescott itself.

In 1867 the capital moved again, this time to Tucson. Ten years later,

EPTH

Prescott again became the capital, which it remained for another 12 years

D

before the seat of government finally moved to Phoenix, which remains Ari-

IN

zona’s capital to this day.

During this period, mining flourished, and although small amounts of

gold and silver were discovered, copper became the source of Arizona’s eco-

nomic wealth. With each mineral strike, a new mining town would boom,

RIZONAA

and when the ore ran out, the town would be abandoned. These towns were

infamous for their gambling halls, bordellos, saloons, and shootouts. Tomb-

stone and Bisbee became the largest towns in the state and were known as

the wildest towns between New Orleans and San Francisco.

In 1867, farmers in the newly founded town of Phoenix began irrigat-

ing their fields using canals that had been dug centuries earlier by the

Hohokam. In the 1870s, ranching became another important source of rev-

enue in the territory, particularly in the southeastern and northwestern parts

of the state. In the 1880s, the railroads finally arrived, and life in Arizona

changed drastically. Suddenly the region’s mineral resources and cattle were

accessible to the east.

STATEHOOD & THE 20TH CENTURY By the beginning of the 20th century, Arizo-

nans were trying to convince Congress to make the territory a state. Congress

balked at the requests, but finally in 1910 allowed the territorial government

to draw up a state constitution. Territorial legislators were progressive think-

ers, and the draft of Arizona’s state constitution included clauses for the

recall of elected officials. President William Howard Taft vetoed the bill that

would have made Arizona a state because he opposed the recall of judges.

Arizona politicians removed the controversial clause, and on February 14,

1912, Arizona became the 48th state. One of the new state legislature’s first

acts was to reinstate the clause providing for the recall of judges.

Much of Washington’s opposition to Arizona’s statehood had been

based on the belief that Arizona could never support economic develop-

ment. This belief was changed in 1911 by one of the most important events

in state history—the completion of the Salt River’s Roosevelt Dam (later to

26

be renamed the Theodore Roosevelt Dam). The dam provided irrigation

water to the Phoenix area and tamed the violent floods of the river. The

introduction of water to the heart of Arizona’s vast desert enabled large-scale

agriculture and industry. Over the next decades, more dams were built

throughout Arizona, and, in 1936, the Hoover Dam on the Colorado River

became the largest concrete dam in the Western Hemisphere. This dam

also created the largest man-made reservoir in North America. Arizona’s 2

dams would eventually provide not only water and electricity, but also the

A

state’s most popular recreation areas.

RIZONA

Despite labor problems, copper mining increased throughout the

1920s and 1930s, and with the onset of World War II, the mines boomed as

military munitions manufacturing increased the demand for copper. How-

IN

ever, within a few years after the war, many mines were shut down. Today,

D

Arizona is littered with old mining ghost towns that boomed and then went

EPTH

bust. A few towns, such as Jerome and Bisbee, managed to hang on after the

mines shut down and were eventually rediscovered by artists, writers, and

retirees. Today, both Bisbee and Jerome are major tourist attractions known

for their many art galleries, interesting shops, and boomtown atmosphere.

The Making of Arizona

World War II also created a demand for beef, leather, and cotton, and

Arizona farmers and ranchers stepped in to meet the need. Cotton, which

was used in the manufacture of tires, quickly became the state’s most

important crop. Goodyear planted huge fields of the crop and even built the

company town of Goodyear, which today is home to one of Arizona’s oldest

and most prestigious resorts. During the war, Arizona’s clear desert skies

also provided ideal conditions for training pilots, and several military bases

were established in the state. Phoenix’s population doubled during the war

years, and, when peace finally arrived, many veterans returned with their

families. However, it would take the invention of air-conditioning to truly

open up the desert to major population growth.

The Theodore Roosevelt Dam.

27

During the postwar years, Arizona attracted a number of large manu-

facturing industries and slowly moved away from its agricultural economic

base. Today, electronics manufacturing, aerospace engineering, and other

high-tech industries provide employment for thousands of Arizonans. The

largest economic segment, however, is now the service industries, with tour-

2

ism playing a crucial role.

Even by the 1920s, Arizona had become a winter destination for the

wealthy, and the Grand Canyon, declared a national park in 1919, was luring

e

visitors even when they had to get there by stagecoach. The clear, dry air also

attracted people suffering from allergies and lung ailments, and Arizona

became known as a healthful place. With Hollywood Westerns enjoying

immense popularity, dude ranches began to spring up across the state. Even-

tually the rustic guest ranches of the 1930s gave way to luxurious golf resorts.

Today, Scottsdale, Phoenix, and Tucson boast dozens of luxury resorts. In

addition, tens of thousands of retirees from as far north as Canada make Ari-

zona their winter home and play a substantial role in the state’s economy.

Arizona in Pop Cultur

Continued population growth throughout the 20th century resulted in

an ever-increasing demand for water. Yet, despite the damming of nearly all

of Arizona’s rivers, the state still suffered from insufficient water supplies in

EPTH

the south-central population centers of Phoenix and Tucson. It took the

D

construction of the controversial and expensive Central Arizona Project

IN

(CAP) aqueduct to carry water from the Colorado River over mountains and

deserts, and deliver it where it was wanted. Construction on the CAP began

in 1974, and in 1985 water from the project finally began irrigating fields

near Phoenix. In 1992, the CAP reached Tucson. However, a drought that

RIZONAA

began in the late 1990s and that has continued almost unabated for more

than a decade has left Phoenix and Tucson once again pondering where

they will come up with the water to fuel future growth.

By the 1960s, Arizona had become an urban state with all the problems

confronting other areas around the nation. The once-healthful air of Phoenix

now rivals that of Los Angeles for the thickness of its smog. Allergy sufferers

are plagued by pollen from the nondesert plants that have been introduced

to make this desert region look more lush and inviting. However, until the

recent recession, the state’s economy was still growing quite rapidly. High-

tech companies had been locating within Arizona, and a steady influx of retir-

ees, as well as Californians fleeing earthquakes and urban problems, had

given the state new energy and new ideas. Things have slowed considerably

since 2009, but, of course, the sun still shines here, even in January and

February when much of the rest of the country is locked in a deep freeze, and

that is a powerful lure. As long as winters in Arizona continue to be sunny

and warm, you can bet that the state will continue to boom.

ARIZONA IN POP CULTURE

Books

HISTORY Marshall Trimble’s Roadside History of Arizona is an ideal book to take along on a driving tour of the state. It goes road by road and discusses events

that happened in the area. If you’re interested in learning more about the

infamous shootout at the O.K. Corral, read Paula Mitchell Marks’s And Die

in the West: The Story of the O.K. Corral Gunfight, an objective, non-Hollywood look at the most glorified and glamorized shootout in Western history.

28

THE GRAND CANYON & THE COLORADO RIVER John Wesley Powell’s diary

produced the first published account (1869) of traveling through the Grand

Canyon. Today, his writings still provide a fascinating glimpse into the can-

yon. Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons, with an introduction by Wallace Stegner, is a republishing of Powell’s writings. Alternatively, read

Stegner’s Beyond the Hundredth Meridian: John Wesley Powell and the Sec-

ond Opening of the West, an in-depth biography of Powell.

2

For an interesting account of the recent human history of the canyon,

A

read Stephen J. Pyne’s How the Canyon Became Grand. Colin Fletcher’s The RIZONA

Man Who Walked Through Time is a narrative of one man’s hike through the

rugged inner canyon. In Down the River, Western environmentalist Edward

Abbey chronicles many of his trips down the Colorado and other Southwest

IN

rivers. Grand Canyon: True Stories of Life Below the Rim (Travelers’ Tales

D

Guides) provides a wide range of perspectives on the Grand Canyon experi-

EPTH

ence, with essays by Edward Abbey, Colin Fletcher, Barry Lopez, and many

others. For a slightly macabre look at the canyon, read Over the Edge: Death

in Grand Canyon, by Thomas M. Myers and Michael P. Ghiglieri. As the

title implies, this book looks at the many ways people have died in the

Arizona in Pop Cultur

Grand Canyon. For an equally offbeat read, pick up Sunk Without a Sound:

The Tragic Colorado River Honeymoon of Glen and Bessie Hyde, by Brad

Dimock. The book title says it all.

Water rights and human impact on the deserts of the Southwest raised

many controversies in the 20th century. Cadillac Desert: The American West

and Its Disappearing Water, by Marc Reisner, focuses on the West’s insatia-

ble need for water. A River No More: The Colorado River and the West, by

e

Philip L. Fradkin, addresses the fate of the Colorado River.

NATURAL HISTORY & THE OUTDOORS Anyone curious about the plants and

animals of the Sonoran Desert should be sure to acquire A Natural History

of the Sonoran Desert. Cacti, wildflowers, tarantulas, roadrunners—they’re

all here and described in very readable detail. Halka Chronic’s Roadside

Geology of Arizona is another handy book to keep in the car, as is Geology Underfoot in Northern Arizona, by Lon Abbott and Terri Cook. If you’re a

hiker, you’ll find Scott S. Warren’s 100 Classic Hikes in Arizona to be an

invaluable traveling companion.

FICTION Tony Hillerman’s murder mysteries are almost all set on the Navajo

Reservation in the Four Corners area of the state and include many refer-

ences to locations you can visit on a vacation in the area. Among Hillerman’s

many Navajo mysteries are Skeleton Man, Sacred Clowns, A Thief of Time, and The Ghostway.

Author J. A. Jance sets many of her murder mysteries in southeast Ari-

zona’s Cochise County, where she grew up. The protagonist of the series is

Sheriff Joanna Brady. Titles include Devil’s Claw, Dead to Rights, Rattlesnake

Crossing, Outlaw Mountain, and Tombstone Courage. Jance’s most recent novel, Left for Dead, also takes place in southern Arizona.

Barbara Kingsolver, a novelist, biologist, and social activist, has set sev-

eral of her novels either partly or entirely in Arizona. The Bean Trees, Pigs in Heaven, and Animal Dreams are peopled by Anglo, Indian, and Hispanic characters, allowing for quirky, humorous narratives with social and political

overtones that provide insights into Arizona’s cultural mélange. Kingsolver’s

nonfiction works include High Tide in Tucson and Holding the Line: Women 29

in the Great Arizona Mine Strike of 1983. The former is a collection of

essays, many of which focus on the author’s life in Tucson, while the latter

is an account of a copper-mine strike.

Edward Abbey’s The Monkey Wrench Gang and Hayduke Lives! are

tales of an unlikely gang of eco-terrorists determined to preserve the wilder-

2

nesses of the Southwest, including parts of northern Arizona.

Zane Grey spent many years living in north-central Arizona and based

many of his Western novels on life in this region of the state. Among his

e

books are Riders of the Purple Sage, The Vanishing American, Call of the

Canyon, The Arizona Clan, and To the Last Man.

TRAVEL If you’re particularly interested in Native American art and crafts, you

may want to seek out a copy of Trading Post Guidebook, by Patrick Edding-

ton and Susan Makov. It’s an invaluable guide to trading posts, artists’ stu-

dios, galleries, and museums in the Four Corners region.

Film

Arizona in Pop Cultur Spectacular landscapes, rugged deserts, ghost towns, and its cowboy mystique have, over the years, made Arizona the location for hundreds of films, from the

seminal works of John Ford to obscure B Westerns starring long-forgotten sing-

EPTH

ing cowboys. This state has become so associated with the Old West that fans

D

come from halfway around the world to walk in the footsteps of John Wayne and

IN

Clint Eastwood.

Production companies working on movies, television shows, and commer-

cials have over the years traveled to every corner of Arizona to find just the right RIZONA

setting for their work. The state has represented the past, the present, and the

A

future, and the state’s landscape is so varied that it has doubled for Texas, Kansas, Mexico, foreign planets, a postapocalyptic earth, and even New York.

In 1939, a set was built in Tucson for the filming of the movie Arizona, and when the shooting was done, the set was left standing and was later used in other

productions. Today, this mock-Western town is known as Old Tucson Studios

and is still occasionally used for film and video productions. Movies that have

been filmed here include Tombstone, The Quick and the Dead, and Three Amigos; John Wayne’s Rio Lobo, Rio Bravo, and El Dorado; Clint Eastwood’s The Outlaw Josey Wales; Kirk Douglas’s Gunfight at the O.K. Corral; and Paul Newman’s The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean.

John Ford made the otherworldly landscape of Monument Valley a trade-

mark of his filmmaking, using it as the backdrop for such movies as Stagecoach,

She Wore a Yellow Ribbon, My Darling Clementine, Rio Grande, and The Searchers. Other Westerns filmed here have included How the West Was Won, The Legend of the Lone Ranger, and Mackenna’s Gold. The valley has also shown up in such non-Western films as Back to the Future III, 2001: A Space Odyssey, Thelma and Louise, and Forrest Gump.

The red rocks of Sedona have also attracted many filmmakers over the years.

The original 1957 version of 3:10 to Yuma, The Riders of the Purple Sage, and The Call of the Canyon were all filmed in Sedona and nearby Oak Creek Canyon.

The area around the small town of Patagonia, in southeastern Arizona, has

also served as a backdrop for quite a few films, including Oklahoma!, Red River, McClintock, Broken Lance, David and Bathsheba, and the 1976 version of A Star Is Born. Television programs such as Little House on the Prairie, The Young Riders, and Red Badge of Courage have been filmed in this part of southern Arizona, too.

30

In 1987, the Coen Brothers produced one of the most offbeat films to have

been shot in Arizona. Raising Arizona, starring Nicolas Cage, Holly Hunter, John Goodman, and Frances McDormand, is a bizarre story of a childless couple who

kidnap a baby. Other offbeat and non-Western films that have been filmed in the

state include Broken Arrow (starring John Travolta), Nurse Betty (starring Morgan Freeman and Renée Zellweger), Days of Thunder (starring Tom Cruise, Nicole

Kidman, and Robert Duvall), Traffic (starring Michael Douglas and Catherine 2

Zeta-Jones), and, most recently, Transformers, a science-fiction film based on a A

line of toys. The movie includes scenes shot at Hoover Dam.

RIZONA

Music

Arizona has a soundtrack. You hear it in hotel lobbies and gift shops, in restau-

IN

rants and national park visitor centers. It is the sound of Native American flute

D

music. The haunting melodies of this music are the perfect accompaniment to a

EPTH

long drive across the wide-open spaces of Arizona. R. Carlos Nakai, who was

born in Flagstaff and is of Navajo and Ute heritage, is considered the preeminent

Native American flutist, and you’ll find his music for sale in gift shops all over the state. Keep an eye out for some, and you can start the soundtrack of your trip.

Eating & Drinking in Arizona

Tucson, home to April’s annual Tucson International Mariachi Conference,

is called the mariachi capital of America, and year-round you can hear this lively

south-of-the-border music in Mexican restaurants around the city. Also in Tuc-

son, you can sometimes catch a bit of indigenous waila music. This is the music of southern Arizona’s Tohono O’odham tribe and is a mix of polka, waltz, and various Mexican influences.

EATING & DRINKING IN

ARIZONA

Because Arizona is a mélange of cultures—Anglo, Hispanic, Native American—

the state’s culinary scene is equally diverse. Of course, you’ll find plenty of fast-food restaurants as well as restaurants following the latest trends, but you’ll also find Native American foods little

changed in hundreds of years and an

astonishingly wide variety of Mexican

food, from Baja-style fish tacos to

Nuevo Latino preparations that seem

lifted from the pages of Like Water for

Chocolate.

If you have an adventurous palate,

be sure to search out some of the state’s

Southwestern restaurants. Although

many of these can be rather expensive,

the flavors, which combine the spices

of Mexico with the fruit-and-meat pair-

ings of nouvelle cuisine, are so distinc-

tive that you’ll likely find yourself soon

craving more. Don’t worry, Southwest-

ern cooking is not all about fiery pep-

pers. Expect pistachio-crusted meats, Southwestern-inspired fare at Scottsdale’s

Cowboy Ciao.

31

fruit salsas, cream sauces made with smoky chipotle peppers, and the likes of

duck tamales and cassoulet made with indigenous tepary beans. Among my favor-

ite Southwestern restaurants in Arizona are Janos (and its affiliated and less

expensive J Bar; see p. 425 and 427) in Tucson; Vincent on Camelback (p. 125),

Cowboy Ciao (p. 116), and Kai (p. 132) in the Phoenix area; and the Turquoise

2 Room (p. 315) at La Posada hotel in Winslow.

At the other end of the culinary spectrum is the simple fare favored by Ari-

zona’s Native Americans. On reservations throughout the state, you’ll usually find

fry bread on the menu. These deep-fried disks of dough are similar to that

county-fair staple, the elephant ear (only without the sugar and cinnamon). Fry

bread is eaten as a side or is used to make fry-bread tacos (called Navajo tacos on

the Navajo Reservation). These tacos are made by piling shredded lettuce,

ground beef, pinto beans, and cheese on top of a circle of fry bread. The best fry-

bread tacos I’ve had in Arizona are in Phoenix at the Fry Bread House (p. 129).

Among the biggest are those at the Cameron Trading Post restaurant (p. 326)

near the east entrance to Grand Canyon National Park. One regular fry-bread

taco here is enough for two people.

Other than fry-bread tacos, authentic Native American fare is hard to come

Eating & Drinking in Arizona by in Arizona. At the Ch’ihootso Indian Marketplace (p. 333), in the Navajo Nation capital of Window Rock, you can sample such traditional dishes as mutton stew and steam corn (a soup made with whole corn kernels). Also, if you

EPTH

should happen to see a roadside sign for kneel-down bread, be sure to buy some.

D

This traditional Navajo corn bread is similar to a tamale, only sweeter. Wherever

you should happen to sample Navajo food, ask whether Navajo tea is available.

IN

This is a mild herbal tea made from a plant that grows in northern Arizona.

On the Hopi Reservation, at the Hopi Cultural Center (p. 322), you can

sample traditional Hopi stew (made with hominy, green chilies, and lamb). In the

RIZONAA

southern part of the state, you can often sample Native foods at stalls in the park-

ing lot of Mission San Xavier del Bac (p. 404) south of Tucson. In this same

region, in the remote Tohono O’odham Reservation town of Sells, you can sam-

ple traditional Native American fare at the Desert Rain Café (p. 465). If you’d

like to take home some Native American ingredients, stop by Native Seeds/

SEARCH (p. 434), a Tucson nonprofit organization involved in preserving the

indigenous crops of the Southwest.

No discussion of Arizona cuisine would be complete without mentioning Mex-

ican food. Yes, I know that Mexican food is ubiquitous all over the U.S., but Arizona Mexican restaurants have far more to offer than deep-fried chalupas, flavorless burritos, and plates of unidentifiable stuff hidden under a dense layer of molten yellow cheese. How about a Sonoran hot dog? I bet you can’t get one of those at your local

gringo-mex joint. Sonoran dogs, available at El Guero Canelo (p. 422) in Tucson, are hot dogs wrapped in bacon and slathered with beans and salsa. For another distinctive Sonoran dish, sample the carne seca at Tucson’s El Charro Café (p. 419). The English translation of this dish (dry meat) may not sound too appetizing, but, trust me, this stuff is great. At the other end of the Mexican spectrum are the flavorful

and creative dishes concocted by chef Suzana Davila at her Tucson restaurant Café

Poca Cosa (p. 418) and by chef Jeff Smedstad at his Sedona restaurant Elote

(p. 222), which takes its name from the delicious grilled corn on the cob often sold by street vendors in Mexico. Elvira’s Restaurant (p. 469), which was once located

south of the border in Nogales, Mexico, now serves its creative cuisine and cocktails in southern Arizona’s arts community of Tubac.

32

Because of the heat and proximity to Mexico, margaritas are among the

most popular cocktails in the state, and they come in a wide range of flavors.

Although I am a traditional on-the-rocks-with-salt person, I can never resist a

prickly-pear margarita. These cocktails, prepared with a syrup made from the

fruit of the prickly pear cactus, are shockingly pink and surprisingly good.

You may never have thought of the desert as wine country, but Arizona is

actually producing some decent wines. Wineries can be found both in southern 2

Arizona in and near the small town of Sonoita, and in central Arizona near Sedona

A

and Cottonwood. Big reds are the focus of most of the state’s wineries. My favor-

RIZONA

ite wine producers include Callaghan Vineyards (p. 477), Alcantara Vineyards

(p. 205), and Page Springs Cellars (p. 217).

IN

WHEN TO GO

DEPTH

Arizona is a year-round destination, although people head to different parts of the

state at different times of the year. In Phoenix, Tucson, and other parts of the

desert, the high season runs from October to mid-May, with the highest hotel

rates from January to April. At the Grand Canyon, summer is the busy season.

When to Go

The all-around best times to visit are spring and fall, when temperatures are

cool in the mountains and warm in the desert, but without extremes (although

you shouldn’t be surprised to get a bit of snow as late as Memorial Day in the

mountains and thunderstorms in the desert in August and September). Late

spring and early autumn (specifically May and Sept) are also good times to save

money—low summer rates are often in effect at the desert resorts—and to see

the Grand Canyon when it’s not its most crowded. In spring, you might also

catch great wildflower displays, which begin in March and last until May, when

the tops of saguaro cacti are covered with waxy white blooms.

If for some reason you happen to be visiting the desert in July or August, be

prepared for sudden thunderstorms. These storms often cause flash floods that

make many roads briefly impassable. Signs

warning motorists not to enter low areas

when flooded should be taken very seriously.

Also, don’t even think about venturing

into narrow slot canyons, such as Antelope

Canyon near Page or the West Fork of Oak

Creek Canyon, if there’s any chance of a storm

anywhere in the region. Rain falling miles

away can send flash floods roaring down nar-

row canyons with no warning. In 1997, several

hikers died when they were caught in a flash

flood in Antelope Canyon, and in 2009, a flash

flood inundated the parking lot at Sedona’s

Tlaquepaque shopping center.

One more thing to keep in mind: Sedona

is just high enough that it actually gets cold in

the winter—sometimes it even snows. So if

you’re looking for sunshine and time by the

pool, book your Sedona vacation for a time

other than the winter.

Arizona, though a desert, gets snow in

its northern regions.

33

Weather

The first thing you should know is that the desert can be cold as well as hot.

Although winter is the prime tourist season in Phoenix and Tucson, night tem-

peratures can be below freezing and days can sometimes be too cold for sunning

or swimming. However, although there can be several days in a row of cool,

2 cloudy, and even rainy weather in January and February, on the whole, winters in

Arizona are positively delightful.

In the winter, sun seekers flock to the deserts, where temperatures average in

the high 60s (low 20s Celsius) by day. In the summer, when desert temperatures top

110°F (43°C), the mountains of eastern and northern Arizona are pleasantly warm,

with daytime averages in the low 80s (high 20s Celsius). Yuma is one of the desert

communities where winter temperatures are the highest in the state, while Prescott

When to Go and Sierra Vista, in the 4,000- to 6,000-foot elevation range, claim temperate climates that are just about ideal.

EPTH

Average Temperatures & Days of Rain

D

IN

PHOENIX

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

AVG. HIGH (°F)

66 70 75 84 93 103

105 103 99 88 75 66

RIZONA

AVG. HIGH (°C) 19 21 24 29 34 39 41 39 37 31 24 19

A

AVG. LOW (°F)

41 44 49 55 64 72 80 79 72 61 48 42

AVG. LOW (°C)

5 7 9 13 18 22 27 26 22 16 9 6

DAYS OF RAIN

4 4 4 2 1 1 4 5 3 3 3 4

FLAGSTAFF

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

AVG. HIGH (°F) 42 45 49 58 67 78 82 79 74 64 51 44

AVG. HIGH (°C)

6 7 9 14 19 26 28 26 23 18 11 7

AVG. LOW (°F)

15 18 22 27 34 41 50 49 41 31 22 16

AVG. LOW (°C)

–9 –8 –6 –3 1 5 10 9 5 –1 –6 –9

DAYS OF RAIN

8 7 9 6 5 3

11 11 6 5 5 6

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums

are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Indepen-

dence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in

October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans’ Day/Armistice Day), the fourth

Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The

Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government

holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Arizona Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.

com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.

34

JANUARY

from around the nation take part in this

Tostitos Fiesta Bowl, University of Phoe-

colorful competition held at the Heard

nix Stadium, Glendale. This college bowl

Museum. Call 602/252-8848, or go

game usually sells out nearly a year in

to www.heard.org. Early to mid-February.

advance. There’s also an associated

Arizona Renaissance Festival, Apache

parade. Call 800/635-5748 or 480/

Junction. Patterned after a 16th-century

350-0911, or go to www.fiestabowl.org.

2

English country fair, this festival features

Early January.

costumed participants and tournament

A

Barrett-Jackson Collector Car Auction,

jousting. Call 520/463-2600, or go to

RIZONA

Scottsdale. More than 1,000 immacu-

www.royalfaires.com/arizona. Weekends

lately restored classic cars are auctioned

from mid-February to early April.

off in an event attended by more than

Cochise Cowboy Poetry & Music Gather-

IN

250,000 people. Call 480/663-6255,

ing, Sierra Vista. More than 50 cowboy

D

or go to www.barrett-jackson.com.

poets, singers, and musicians gather in

EPTH

Mid-January.

Sierra Vista for a weekend of Wild West

Wings over Willcox, Willcox. You can

poetry and music. Call 520/678-

take part in birding tours, workshops,

9952, or go to www.cowboypoets.com.

Arizona Calendar of Events

and, of course, watch the tens of thou-

Mid-February.

sands of sandhill cranes that gather in

Scottsdale Arabian Horse Show, Scotts-

the Sulphur Springs Valley near Willcox.

dale. This celebration of the Arabian

Call 800/200-2272, or go to www.

horse is said to be the largest Arabian

wingsoverwillcox.com. Mid-January.

horse show in the world. Call 480/

Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, Tucson.

515-1500, or go to www.scottsdaleshow.

This huge show at the Tucson Conven-

com. Mid- to late February.

tion Center offers seminars, museum

La Fiesta de los Vaqueros, Tucson. This

displays from around the world, and

cowboy festival and rodeo at the Tucson

hundreds of dealers selling just about

Rodeo Grounds includes the Tucson

any kind of rock you can imagine. In

Rodeo Parade, which claims to be the

addition, there are more than 30 other

world’s longest nonmotorized parade.

smaller shows in the weeks prior to the

Call 800/964-5662 or 520/741-2233,

main show; for information on these

or go to www.tucsonrodeo.com. Late

smaller shows, visit www.tucsonshow

February.

guide.com. Call 520/322-5773, or

Parada del Sol Parade and Rodeo, Scott-

go to www.tgms.org. Late January to

sdale. The state’s largest horse-drawn

mid-February.

parade includes a street dance and

Waste Management Phoenix Open Golf

rodeo. Call 480/990-3179, or go to

Tournament, Scottsdale. Prestigious PGA

www.paradadelsol.org. Late February or

golf tournament at the Tournament Play-

early March.

ers Club. Call 602/870-0163, or go

Sedona International Film Festival,

to www.wastemanagementphoenixopen.

Sedona. View various new indie features,

com. Late January to early February.

documentaries, and animated films

FEBRUARY

before they (it is hoped) get picked up

Tubac Festival of the Arts, Tubac. Exhib-

for wider distribution. Call 928/282-

its by North American artists and crafts-

1177, or go to www.sedonafilmfestival.

people. Call 520/398-2704, or go to

com. Late February.

www.tubacaz.com/festival.asp. Early

MARCH

February.

Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair & Mar-

World Championship Hoop Dance Con-

ket, Phoenix. Indian cultural and dance

test, Phoenix. Native American dancers

presentations and one of the largest

35

selections of Native American crafts in

928/753-5001, or go to www.azrt66.

the Southwest make this a fascinating

com. First weekend in May.

festival. Go early to avoid the crowds.

Phippen Museum Western Art Show &

Call 602/252-8848, or go to www.

Sale, Prescott. This is the state’s premier

heard.org. First weekend in March.

Western-art sale. Call 928/778-1385,

2 Ostrich Festival, Chandler. Give the

or go to www.phippenartmuseum.org.

carnival a miss and head straight for the

Memorial Day weekend.

ostrich races. Although brief, these

Wyatt Earp Days, Tombstone. Gunfights

unusual races are something you ought

are reenacted in memory of the shootout

to see at least once in your lifetime. Call

at the O.K. Corral. Call 888/457-3929

480/963-4571, or go to www.ostrich

or 520/457-3929, or go to www.wyatt

festival.com. Mid-March.

earpdays.com. Memorial Day weekend.

Scottsdale Arts Festival, Scottsdale Mall.

Zuni Festival of Arts and Culture, Flag-

This visual and performing arts festival

staff. This exhibition and sale at the

includes concerts, an art fair, and chil-

Museum of Northern Arizona includes

dren’s events. Call 480/994-2787, or

traditional Zuni music and dances, crafts

go to www.scottsdaleartsfestival.org.

vendors, and cultural events. Call 928/

Arizona Calendar of Events Mid-March.

774-5213, or go to www.musnaz.org.

Wa:k Pow Wow, Tucson. Tohono

Memorial Day weekend.

O’odham celebration at Mission San

JUNE

EPTH

Xavier del Bac, featuring many South-

Prescott Frontier Days/World’s Oldest

D

western Native American groups. Call

Rodeo, Prescott. This is one of the state’s

IN

520/573-4000 or go to www.waknet.

two rodeos that claim to be the nation’s

org. Second weekend in March.

oldest. Call 800/358-1888 or 928/

Welcome Back Buzzards, Superior. A

445-3103, or go to www.worldsoldest

RIZONA

flock of turkey vultures (buzzards) arrives

rodeo.com. Late June to July 4.

A

annually at the Boyce Thompson Arbore-

JULY

tum to roost in eucalyptus trees and on

Hopi Festival of Arts and Culture, Flag-

volcanic cliffs, and this festival celebrates

staff. This exhibition and sale is held at

their arrival. Call 520/689-2811, or

the Museum of Northern Arizona and

go to http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu.

includes crafts vendors and demonstra-

Mid- to late March.

tions, music, dancing, Hopi foods, and

APRIL

various cultural events. Call 928/774-

Tucson International Mariachi Confer-

5213, or go to www.musnaz.org. Early

ence, Tucson. Mariachi bands from all

July.

over the world come to compete before

Sidewalk Egg Fry Contest, Oatman. In

standing-room-only crowds. Call 520/

the ghost town of Oatman, located near

838-3913, or go to www.tucsonmariachi.

one of the hottest places on earth, con-

org. Late April.

testants use their own devices, such as

MAY

mirrors, to fry an egg in 15 minutes. Call

Cinco de Mayo, Phoenix and other cities.

928/768-6222, or go to www.oatman

Celebration of the Mexican victory over

goldroad.org. July 4 at high noon.

the French in a famous 1862 battle

Independence Day. For information on

comes complete with food, music, and

fireworks displays in Phoenix, call

dancing. Check local newspapers for

877/225-5749 or 602/254-6500; for

area festivities. Around May 5.

Tucson, phone 800/638-8350 or

Route 66 Fun Run, Kingman area. Classic

520/624-1817. For other areas, contact

hot rods hit the road for 3 days of roar-

the local chamber of commerce. July 4.

ing up and down historic Route 66. Call

36

AUGUST

928/204-9456, or go to www.sedona

Navajo Festival of Arts and Culture,

artsfestival.org. Early to mid-October.

Flagstaff. This exhibition and sale at the

Arizona Exposition & State Fair, Phoe-

Museum of Northern Arizona includes

nix. Featured are rodeos, top-name

rug-weaving demonstrations, hoop

entertainment, demolition derbies, eth-

dances, crafts vendors, and cultural

nic food, and lots of activities for kids.

events. Call 928/774-5213, or go

2

Call 602/252-6771, or go to www.

to www.musnaz.org. Early August.

azstatefair.com. Mid-October to early

A

Southwest Wings Birding and Nature

November.

RIZONA

Festival, Sierra Vista. Spotting humming-

Bisbee 1000, Bisbee. This foot race

birds and looking for owls and bats keep

sends runners up and down 1,000 steps

participants busy. Includes lectures and

in the old mining town of Bisbee. Go to

IN

field trips throughout southeastern Ari-

www.bisbee1000.org. Third weekend in

D

zona. Go to www.swwings.org. Early

October.

EPTH

August.

Helldorado Days, Tombstone. Atten-

August Doins Rodeo/World’s Oldest

dants of this festival can check out an

Continuous Rodeo, Payson. This is the

1880s fashion show, beard contest, reen-

Arizona’

second of Arizona’s rodeos claiming to

actments, and street entertainment. Call

be the country’s oldest. Call 800/672-

888/457-3929 or 520/457-3929, or

9766 or 928/474-4515, or go to www.

go to www.helldoradodays.com. Third

s Natural W

paysonrimcountry.com/augustdoins.

full weekend in October.

Third weekend in August.

DECEMBER

Grand Canyon Music Festival, Grand

Las Noches de las Luminarias, Phoenix.

Canyon Village. For nearly 3 decades,

In December, the Desert Botanical Gar-

orld

this festival has been bringing classical

den lights up after dark with luminarias

music to the South Rim of the Grand

and other enchanting displays of holiday

Canyon. Call 800/997-8285 or

lights. Call 480/941-1225 or go to

928/638-9215, or go to www.grand

www.dbg.org.

canyonmusicfest.org. Late August to

Festival of Lights, Sedona. Thousands

early September.

of luminarias are lit at dusk at the

SEPTEMBER

Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village.

Navajo Nation Fair, Window Rock. This

Call 928/282-4838, or go to www.

fair features traditional music and danc-

tlaq.com. Mid-December.

ing, a Miss Navajo contest, and more.

Pueblo Grande Museum Indian Market,

Call 928/871-6478, or go to www.

Phoenix. This is the largest market of its

navajonationfair.com. Early September.

kind in the state, with more than 200

OCTOBER

Native American artisans. Call 877/

Sedona Arts Festival, Sedona. One of

706-4408 or 602/495-0900, or go to

the top arts festivals in the state. Call

www.pueblogrande.com. Second full

weekend in December.

ARIZONA’S NATURAL WORLD

Although the very mention of Arizona may cause some people to turn the air-

conditioning on full blast, this state is much more than a searing landscape of

cacti and mesquite trees. From the baking shores of the lower Colorado River to

the snowcapped heights of the San Francisco Peaks, Arizona encompasses virtu-

ally every North American climatic zone. Cactus flowers bloom in spring, and

37

2

orld

s Natural W

Arizona’s violent monsoons can sometimes result in colorful sunsets.

Arizona’ mountain wildflowers have their turn in summer. In autumn, the aspens color the White Mountains golden, and in winter, snows blanket the higher elevations

from the Grand Canyon’s North Rim to the Mexican border.

But it’s the Sonoran Desert, with its massive saguaro cacti, that most people

EPTH

associate with Arizona, and it is here in the desert that the state’s two largest cit-D

ies—Phoenix and Tucson—are found. Due in large part to the relatively plentiful

IN

rains in the region, the Sonoran Desert is one of the world’s greenest and most

biologically diverse deserts. In Arizona, rain falls during both the winter and the

late summer. This latter rainy season, when clamorous thunderstorms send flash

RIZONA

floods surging down arroyos, is known as the monsoon season and is the most

A

dramatic time of year in the desert. The sunsets are unforgettable, but so, too, are the heat and humidity.

Before the introduction of dams and deep wells, many Arizona rivers and

streams flowed year-round and nurtured a surprising variety of plants and ani-

mals. Today, however, only a few rivers and creeks still flow unaltered through the

desert. They include Sonoita and Aravaipa creeks and the San Pedro, Verde, and

Hassayampa rivers. The green riparian areas along these watercourses are char-

acterized by rare cottonwood-willow forests and serve as magnets for wildlife,

harboring rare birds as well as fish species unique to Arizona.

Outside the desert regions, there is great diversity as well. In the southern

part of the state, small mountain ranges rise abruptly from the desert floor, creat-

ing refuges for plants and animals that require cooler climates. It is these so-

called sky islands that harbor the greatest varieties of bird species in the

continental United States. Birds from both warm and cold climates find homes

in such oases as Ramsey, Madera, and Cave Creek canyons.

Although rugged mountain ranges crisscross the state, only a few rise to

such heights that they support actual forests. Among these are the Santa Catali-

nas outside Tucson, the White Mountains along the state’s eastern border, and

the San Francisco Peaks north of Flagstaff. However, it’s atop the Mogollon Rim

and the Kaibab Plateau that the ponderosa pine forests cover the greatest areas.

The Mogollon Rim is a 2,000-foot-high escarpment that stretches from central

Arizona all the way into New Mexico. The ponderosa pine forest here is the larg-

est in the world and is dotted with lakes well known for their fishing. The Mogol-

lon Rim area is also home to large herds of elk. At more than 8,000 feet in

38

elevation, the Kaibab Plateau is even higher than the Mogollon Rim, yet it is

through the Kaibab Plateau that the Grand Canyon cuts its mighty chasm.

Arizona Flora & Fauna

SAGUAROS & THEIR SPINY FRIENDS

From the diminutive hedgehog to the stately saguaro, the cacti of the Sonoran 2

Desert display a fascinating variety of shapes and sizes. Although your first

thought may be to give them a wide berth, Arizona’s cacti are worth a closer

ARIZONA

inspection, especially in the spring, when their large, waxy flowers paint the des-

ert with splashes of color. May is probably the best all-around month for seeing

cactus flowers, but you can see them in April and June as well.

The best natural areas to see cacti (it’s okay to say cactuses, too) are Saguaro

IN

National Park (outside Tucson), Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument (100

D

miles west of Tucson), Sabino Canyon Recreation Area (in Tucson), Picacho Peak

EPTH

State Park (near Casa Grande), and South Mountain Park (in Phoenix). To learn

more about cacti, visit the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix, Boyce Thompson

Arboretum in Superior, or Tucson’s Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum.

Arizona’

The Weird Weather of the Desert

s Natural W

If you think weather forecasts in Arizona

the rain evaporates before reaching the

are nothing but “sunny and warm” every

ground, it is referred to as a virga, which

day, think again. The Arizona desert is

usually looks like a pale gray curtain

home to some of the most extreme

stretching down from a cloud. When it

orld

weather phenomena in North America.

does rain in the desert, it often pours.

As everyone knows, it’s hot in Arizona.

The Sonoran Desert has two distinct

How hot? Well, on June 29, 1994, it hit

rainy seasons. During the winter, the rain

128 degrees Fahrenheit (53.3 degrees

usually falls as gentle rains. However,

Celsius) in Lake Havasu City. But, remem-

during the late summer monsoon sea-

ber what they say here: “It’s a dry heat.”

son, violent thunderstorms are common.

Hot air rising over plowed farm fields

These storms often drop large amounts

often causes large dust devils that can

of rain in brief periods of time causing

look like tornadoes. Watch out for dust

flash floods. Throughout the desert, you

devils hurling tumbleweeds across high-

will see signs warning drivers not to

ways. I bet that’s not a road hazard you

enter low areas when flooded. In the

have to watch out for back home. Speak-

northern part of the state, you should

ing of dust, sometimes it blows across

also stay out of slot canyons if there is

Arizona in such vast quantities that it

any chance of a thunderstorm anywhere

forms dust storms, which these days are

in the area. In 1997, 11 hikers died in a

often getting referred to by their Arabic

flash flood in Antelope Canyon, a

name— haboob. On July 5, 2011, a mas-

famously photogenic slot canyon just

sive haboob engulfed Phoenix, and dra-

outside the town of Page. Thunder-

matic video footage of the event shows

storms can also cause microbursts and

a massive wall of sand and dust rising

macrobursts, which are sudden down-

high over the city.

bursts of winds. On August 14, 1996, a

Despite what you might think, it

severe thunderstorm caused a micro-

actually rains quite a bit in Arizona’s

burst with winds that were recorded at

Sonoran Desert. However, the rain

115 mph.

doesn’t always reach the ground. When

39

SAGUARO CACTUS The saguaro (pronounced sa- hwah-ro) is the largest cactus

of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert and grows nowhere else on earth. (Saguaro

throughout the state are protected by law.) Reaching heights of as much as

50 feet, saguaros are the redwoods of the desert, and often grow in dense

stands that resemble forests. Saguaros are a slow-growing cactus; a 6-inch-

2

tall cactus might be 10 years old, and it can take 75 years for a saguaro to

sprout its first branch. The oldest-known saguaros are around 200 years old,

and some have more than 40 arms.

To support their great size in such an arid environment, saguaros have

orld

a highly efficient root system that can be as large as 100 feet in diameter.

These roots soak up water quickly and store it in the spongy interior of the

cactus. After a rainstorm, a mature saguaro can weigh as much as 7 tons and

survive for up to 2 years without another drop of water. Supporting this great

s Natural W

mass is an internal framework of sturdy ribs, while the exterior of the cactus

is pleated so that it can expand and contract as it takes up and loses water.

Each spring, waxy white flowers sprout from the tips of saguaro arms.

Arizona’

These flowers are pollinated by white-winged doves and lesser long-nosed

bats that come from hundreds of miles away in Mexico just for saguaro flow-

ering season. Other animals that rely on saguaros include Gila woodpeckers

and elf owls that nest in holes in saguaro trunks.

EPTH

The Tohono O’odham people, natives of the Sonoran Desert, have long

D

relied on saguaro cactus fruit as an important food source, even making a

IN

traditional ceremonial wine from the red, seedy pulp. So important has the

saguaro harvest been in the past that the Tohono O’odham consider the

saguaro harvest the start of the new year.

RIZONAA

ORGAN PIPE CACTUS This close relative of the saguaro takes its name from its

many trunks, which give it the appearance of an old pipe organ. The organ

pipe cactus is even more frost-sensitive than the saguaro and lives only in

an area 100 miles west of Tucson on both sides of the Mexican border. This

population of stately cacti has been preserved in Organ Pipe Cactus

National Monument.

BARREL CACTUS When mature, these cacti look much as their name implies

and can be confused with young saguaros. However, the barrel cactus can

be distinguished by its fishhook-shaped spines, which are usually yellow or

red. This is the cactus that for years has been touted as a source of life-giv-

ing water to anyone lost in the desert. The liquid in this cactus’s spongy

interior is actually quite bitter and foul-tasting. However, the same spongy

pulp, when cooked in sugar water, becomes very tasty.

CHOLLA CACTUS The cholla (pronounced choi-yah) is the most dreaded of all

the Arizona cacti. Its spines are long, plentiful, sharp, and brittle. To brush

up against a cholla is to experience certain pain. ( Tip: Tweezers are very helpful in removing cholla spines.) Here in Arizona, there are several species of cholla, most of which resemble small trees. They go by such graphic

names as jumping cholla, which is said to throw pieces of its spiny branches

at unwary passersby; teddy bear cholla, which is so covered with spines that

it looks fuzzy (it’s not, so don’t get tempted into touching one); and chain

fruit cholla, on which fruit hang in fragile, spiny chains. The chollas are

favored nesting spots of cactus wrens and doves. Give chollas a wide berth.

PRICKLY PEAR CACTUS This is one of the largest and most widespread families

of cacti and can be found throughout the United States, not just in the

40

desert. They are also among the most commercially important cacti. The flat

stems or pads of one species (known as nopales in Spanish) are used in

Mexican cooking and can be found both fresh and canned in markets in

Arizona. The fruit of the prickly pear is also edible and is relished by both

humans and animals. Here in Arizona, it’s possible to find prickly-pear jams

and jellies, as well as prickly-pear ice cream and margaritas.

2

ROADRUNNER, COYOTE & OTHER DESERT DENIZENS

A

Just as cacti have adapted to the desert, so too have the animals that live here.

RIZONA

Many desert animals spend the sweltering daytime in burrows and venture out

only in the cool of the night. Under cover of darkness, coyotes howl, rattlesnakes

and great horned owls hunt kangaroo rats, and javelinas root about for anything

IN

edible. Gila monsters drag their ungainly bodies through the dust, while tarantu-

D

las tiptoe silently in search of unwary insects.

EPTH

GREATER ROADRUNNER “Roadrunner, if he catches you, you’re through.” Now, I

know that the words from the cartoon theme song were meant as a warning to

the roadrunner that the wily coyote was after him, but, if you happen to be a

snake or a lizard and a roadrunner catches you, you are definitely through. Real

Arizona’

roadrunners are the largest North American member of the cuckoo family and

can run 15 mph. Although they are able to fly, they rarely do. Roadrunners are

curious creatures; I once saw one running around in a Tucson brewpub park-

s Natural W

ing lot checking out new customers as they got out of their cars.

COYOTE No other creature better symbolizes the desert Southwest than the

coyote. Celebrated as the Trickster in Native American stories, coyotes have

orld

adapted well to life amid the ever-expanding cities and towns of Arizona.

They are often seen boldly strolling across not just remote stretches of high-

way, but suburban streets as well. I once watched a coyote curiously follow-

ing a foursome on a golf course in Scottsdale. Nothing captures the essence

of the desert quite like the crazy cackling of coyotes at sunset.

Prickly pear cactus.

Roadrunner.

41

GILA MONSTER Despite the fearful name, this is actually just a lizard, albeit a

large, ugly, and poisonous lizard. In fact, Gila monsters are one of only two

poisonous lizards in the world. With their mottled black-and-pink coloring,

their warty-looking scales, and their fat, stubby tails, these slow-moving liz-

ards are indeed a monstrous sight. However, because they are relatively

2

uncommon, your chances of encountering one in the wild are slight. By the

way, the Gila monster’s warty appearance is caused by osteoderms, bony

plates that were common among dinosaurs but which are rare in modern

reptiles.

ravel

CALIFORNIA CONDOR California condors can have a wingspan of 9 feet, which

gives them the largest wingspan of any North American bird. Some might

also say they are among the ugliest birds in North America. In 1987, there

were only 22 California condors left on earth. At that point, all of them were

captured so that they could be bred in captivity. Today, there are nearly 300

Responsible T

of the huge birds, and many of them live in Grand Canyon National Park

and Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, where a release site is located.

Condors are also often seen in the vicinity of Grand Canyon Village on the

South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

EPTH D COLLARED PECCARY Known in Ari-

zona as javelinas (pronounced

IN

hav-uh- lee-nuhs), these strange-

looking creatures look a bit like

long-haired, neckless pigs. Javeli-

RIZONAA

nas are very well adapted to life in

the desert; they can even eat

prickly pear cactus—spines and

all. While not normally aggres-

sive, they are so nearsighted that

in their hurry to get away from

you, they might run straight at

you, not realizing where you’re

standing. Several times over the

years I have spooked javelinas on

trails in the Tucson area. I’ve

always been just as startled by

them as they have been by me.

Javelinas are well adapted to desert life.

TARANTULA Okay, I know these giant arachnids are about as creepy as a crawly

thing can be, but actually they’re neither aggressive nor particularly poison-

ous. However, with their 2-inch bodies, 4-inch legs, and Hollywood horror-

movie reputation, they often inspire terror in Arizona visitors. After

late-summer rainstorms, male tarantulas can often be seen wandering

across roads. They’re wandering in search of a mate, and after mating, the

male usually dies within a few months. Female tarantulas, however, can live

for 25 years or more.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

Let’s face it: It’s hard to be green in the desert. The desert simply is not a very

sustainable place to build major cities. High temperatures and lack of water long

precluded the development of arid landscapes. However, with the advent of

42

air-conditioning, giant dams, and canals that can transport huge amounts of

water hundreds of miles across the desert, cities such as Phoenix and Tucson

have been able to grow into the sprawling metropolises of today. Unfortunately,

in places where it often tops 120°F (49°C) in the summer, massive amounts of

energy must be used to keep cool. Likewise, the scarcity of water in the desert

Southwest would suggest that perhaps the Sonoran Desert is not the best place

to locate large metropolitan areas.

2

For decades, resort hotels in Phoenix and Tucson have been criticized for

A

their profligate water usage, and such criticism has yet to eliminate the vast acres RIZONA

of lawns that surround some of the state’s resorts. Arizona is well known for its

hundreds of golf courses, but those courses use up an inordinate amount of

water. The state’s guest ranches make great family destinations, but cattle ranch-

IN

ing can be very damaging to the desert environment.

D

Slowly but surely, however, resorts, hotels, inns, and other businesses across

EPTH

the state are showing signs of turning green. In Phoenix, the Hyatt Regency

Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Gainey Ranch has a solar hot-water system. The U.S.

Green Building Council has given LEED certification to Tempe’s hip Aloft hotel

where, among other green features, drivers of hybrid cars get preferred parking

Responsible T

spaces. In Tucson, there’s a solar-powered pizza place and even a solar-powered

bar, and in Flagstaff, there’s a burger joint that uses beef from a local ranch. You’ll find information on these and other eco-friendly restaurants and accommodations throughout this book.

While the desert, by definition, may not be very green, there are some things

ravel

you can do to make your Arizona vacation a little bit more sustainable. Stay at a

resort that uses native desert landscaping rather than one surrounded by thirsty

lawns. Play golf on a water-conserving “desert-style” course; while these courses

can be very challenging, they preserve the natural desert environment and save

water. Some courses have even been certified by the Audubon Society as wildlife

sanctuaries. See the Golf & the Environment website (www.golfand

environment.com) for details. If you’re heading to Grand Canyon National Park,

take the train and then use the park’s free, environmentally friendly compressed-

natural-gas buses to get around.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want

to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, inter-

act with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel

usually doesn’t require special skills—just a willingness to work hard—and pro-

grams vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs pro-

vide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses,

which can add up quickly. For some volunteer opportunities in Arizona, see “Vol-

unteer & Working Trips” in chapter 12.

43

3

SUGGESTED

ARIZONA

ITINERARIES

You could spend a lifetime exploring Arizona—an important

fact to keep in mind when planning a trip to this vast and

incredibly diverse region of the American Southwest. This

state is roughly 400 miles from north to south (about as far as

from New York City to Raleigh, North Carolina, or Brussels,

Belgium, to Bern, Switzerland), and 300 miles from east to west (think New

York to Richmond, Virginia, or Paris, France, to Bonn, Germany). It could

easily take you 9 hours to drive from one end to the other. Even if you just 3

want to hit the highlights, reconcile yourself to doing a lot of driving. Luck-

S

ily, the speed limit on interstate highways here can be as high as 75 mph.

UGGESTED

Where should you go? What should you see? What’s the best route? How do you

maximize your time? This chapter helps you answer those questions.

ARIZONA

If you read through all these itineraries, you’ll notice a bit of overlap. There

are some attractions that just should not be missed on any visit to the state. Also, try to think of these as general ideas. Because Phoenix and Tucson are less than

2 hours apart, you could easily swap days I mention for Phoenix for time spent in

ITINERARIES

Tucson (or vice versa) and not add too much extra driving to your vacation.

REGIONS IN BRIEF

PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE & THE VALLEY OF THE SUN This region encompasses

the sprawling metropolitan Phoenix area, which covers more than 400

square miles and includes more than 20 cities and communities surrounded

Regions in Brief

by several distinct mountain ranges. It’s the economic and population cen-

ter of the state, and is Arizona’s main winter- and spring-vacation destina-

tion. It is here that you’ll find the greatest concentrations of resorts and golf

courses. It is also where you’ll find the worst traffic congestion and highest

resort rates.

CENTRAL ARIZONA This region lies between Phoenix and the high country of

northern Arizona and includes the red-rock country around the town of

Sedona, which is one of the state’s most popular tourist destinations. The

rugged scenery around Sedona played many a role in old Western movies

and has long attracted artists. Today, Sedona abounds in art galleries, recre-

ational opportunities, and excellent lodging choices. Also within this region

are historic Prescott (the former territorial capital of Arizona); the old min-

ing town of Jerome, now an artists’ community; and several Indian ruins and

petroglyph sites that are open to the public.

THE GRAND CANYON & NORTHERN ARIZONA Home to the Grand Canyon,

one of the natural wonders of the world, northern Arizona is a vast and

sparsely populated region comprised primarily of public lands and Indian

reservations. Because Grand Canyon National Park attracts millions of

previous page: Monument Valley’s rock formations are the subject of numerous photos

and films.

45

T

a

helly

191

Eagar

80

Rock

Park

Greer

C

Alpine

Portal

191

FORES

Canyon

Window

Corners

de National

180

APACHE-

NATIONAL

Douglas

Monument

Chinle

260 s n i

SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS

Chiricahua National Monument

181

CORONADO

191

a t Mt.

10

Tribal

ark

n u

Baldy

40

Johns

Springerville

o M

Safford

Four

e

Arizon

191

P

61

Forest

t i h W

186

191

St.

T

T

180

60

Navajo

Ganado

Bisbee

APACHE

264

CORONADO NATIONAL FORES

Tombstone

160

Monument

Petrified National

NATIONAL FORES

RESERVATION

CORONADO

Willcox

77

McNary

ARLOS

70

PACHE

N

T

C

Benson

Sierra Vista

Low

FORESTS

A RESERVATION

T

National

DESERT

RESERVATION

377

T

90

N

FORES

alley

Kayenta

SAN INDIA

Park

87

Show

FORT

V

Holbrook

Saguaro National Park

77

INDIAN

CORONADO NATIONAL FORES

Navajo

APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL

Pinetop-Lakeside

INDIA

60

Lemmon

NATIONAL FORES

Sonoita

Globe

CORONADO

Patagonia

Tribal

83

NATIONAL

a

HOPI

RESERVATION

260

Mt.

ake

PAINTED

L Powell

INDIAN

Nogales

Are

Tucson

82

National

Monument Navajo

98

19

City

Jct.

Monument

Winslow

Superior

Tubac

T

CORONADO

Peak

87

FOREST

40

Tuba

88

Junction

79

Canyon

f

XAVIER INDIAN

Arivaca

Recreation

Page

Cameron

Wupatki National

Florence

CORONADO NATIONAL FORES

SAN

Meteor Crater

NATIONAL

Arivaca

Glen

87

Apache

79

Monument

Park

RESERVATION

286

89

Peaks

NAVAJO

FOREST

o

c

89

10

N

64

Humphreys

Flagstaf

COCONINO NATIONAL

Verde

Saguaro

s

O

i

National

17

260

Payson

TONTO

Y

c

Ironwood

86

N

T

Sedona

liffs

A

Aires

C

Canyon

n

Creek

Mesa

Peak

National

a

D

C

N

r

179

Camp

87

A

Wildlife Refuge

89

R

G E H T

F

Scottsdale

Tempe

KAIBAB

n

NATIONAL FORES

a

FOREST

Carefree/ Cave

ALT 89

279

Grand Village

S

L

Buenos

ALT

National

89

m

Picacho

Monument

Williams

Grande

67

180

National

64

17

X

Vermilion

Ri

T

IVER

O'ODHAM

FOREST

69

R

Casa

INDIAN

UTAH

ark

N

Canyon

Fria

INDIAN

P

NATIONA

NATIONAL

ILA

North

89

Jerome

G

RESERVATION

KAIBAB

Canyon

ational

PRESCOT

N

RESERVATION

PHOENI

89

NATIONAL FOREST

Agua

60

TOHONO

d

Grand

KAIBAB

Monument

INDIAN

T

HAVASUPAI

N

Seligman

Wickenburg

FOREST

actus l

Gran National

O

RESERVATIO

Y

Prescott

C

389

N

NATIONAL

end

Ajo

A

r

85

C

e

PRESCOT

B

v

ipe

D

i

MEXICO

59

N

R

A

n P Nationa

66

Gila

Monument

R

INDIAN

G

E

HUALAPAI

15

o

H T

RESERVATION d

40

60

Orga

Parashant

ar

-

olo

l Monument

10

C

Prieta l Wildlife

93

ity

8

Refuge

Canyon

C

Nationa

Cabeza Nationa

l

Grand

West

Grand

l

THE GRAND CANYON Canyon

Kingman

D

Havasu

ationa Area

Kofa

Temple Bar

N

d

Nationa Wildlife Refuge

68

40

Lake

Parker

Quartzsite

UNITE

STATES

60 mi

A

ead M

93

95

r e

95

Bullhea City

v

Recreation

i

60 km

EVAD

Lake Mohave

95

R

Lake

Lake

o d

N

Mead

a r o l o C

Lake

Ski Area

Laughlin

avasu

Yuma

H

Arizona

0

0

93

Dam

Las Vegas

Hoover

NEVADA

CALIFORNIA

CALIF.

Needles

46

T

a

helly

191

Eagar

80

Rock

Park

Greer

C

Alpine

Portal

191

FORES

Canyon

Window

Corners

de National

180

APACHE-

NATIONAL

Douglas

Monument

Chinle

260 s n i

SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS

Chiricahua National Monument

181

CORONADO

191

a t Mt.

10

Tribal

ark

n u

Baldy

40

Johns

Springerville

o M

Safford

Four

e

Arizon

191

P

61

Forest

t i h W

186

191

St.

T

T

180

60

Navajo

Ganado

Bisbee

APACHE

264

CORONADO NATIONAL FORES

Tombstone

160

Monument

Petrified National

NATIONAL FORES

RESERVATION

CORONADO

Willcox

77

McNary

ARLOS

70

PACHE

N

T

C

Benson

Sierra Vista

Low

FORESTS

A RESERVATION

T

National

DESERT

RESERVATION

377

T

90

N

FORES

alley

Kayenta

SAN INDIA

Park

87

Show

FORT

V

Holbrook

Saguaro National Park

77

INDIAN

CORONADO NATIONAL FORES

Navajo

APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL

Pinetop-Lakeside

INDIA

60

Lemmon

NATIONAL FORES

Sonoita

Globe

CORONADO

Patagonia

Tribal

83

NATIONAL

a

HOPI

RESERVATION

260

Mt.

ake

PAINTED

L Powell

INDIAN

Nogales

Are

Tucson

82

National

Monument Navajo

98

19

City

Jct.

Monument

Winslow

Superior

Tubac

T

CORONADO

Peak

87

FOREST

40

Tuba

88

Junction

79

Canyon

f

XAVIER INDIAN

Arivaca

Recreation

Page

Cameron

Wupatki National

Florence

CORONADO NATIONAL FORES

SAN

Meteor Crater

NATIONAL

Arivaca

Glen

87

Apache

79

Monument

Park

RESERVATION

286

89

Peaks

NAVAJO

FOREST

o

c

89

10

N

64

Humphreys

Flagstaf

COCONINO NATIONAL

Verde

Saguaro

s

O

i

National

17

260

Payson

TONTO

Y

c

Ironwood

86

N

T

Sedona

liffs

A

Aires

C

Canyon

n

Creek

Mesa

Peak

National

a

D

C

N

r

179

Camp

87

A

Wildlife Refuge

89

R

G E H T

F

Scottsdale

Tempe

KAIBAB

n

NATIONAL FORES

a

FOREST

Carefree/ Cave

ALT 89

279

Grand Village

S

L

Buenos

ALT

National

89

m

Picacho

Monument

Williams

Grande

67

180

National

64

17

X

Vermilion

Ri

T

IVER

O'ODHAM

FOREST

69

R

Casa

INDIAN

UTAH

ark

N

Canyon

Fria

INDIAN

P

NATIONA

NATIONAL

ILA

North

89

Jerome

G

RESERVATION

KAIBAB

Canyon

ational

PRESCOT

N

RESERVATION

PHOENI

89

NATIONAL FOREST

Agua

60

TOHONO

d

Grand

KAIBAB

Monument

INDIAN

T

HAVASUPAI

N

Seligman

Wickenburg

FOREST

actus l

Gran National

O

RESERVATIO

Y

Prescott

C

389

N

NATIONAL

end

Ajo

A

r

85

C

e

PRESCOT

B

v

ipe

D

i

MEXICO

59

N

R

A

n P Nationa

66

Gila

Monument

R

INDIAN

G

E

HUALAPAI

15

o

H T

RESERVATION d

40

60

Orga

Parashant

ar

-

olo

l Monument

10

C

Prieta l Wildlife

93

ity

8

Refuge

Canyon

C

Nationa

Cabeza Nationa

l

Grand

West

Grand

l

THE GRAND CANYON Canyon

Kingman

D

Havasu

ationa Area

Kofa

Temple Bar

N

d

Nationa Wildlife Refuge

68

40

Lake

Parker

Quartzsite

UNITE

STATES

60 mi

A

ead M

93

95

r e

95

Bullhea City

v

Recreation

i

60 km

EVAD

Lake Mohave

95

R

Lake

Lake

o d

N

Mead

a r o l o C

Lake

Ski Area

Laughlin

avasu

Yuma

H

Arizona

0

0

93

Dam

Las Vegas

Hoover

NEVADA

CALIFORNIA

CALIF.

Needles

47

visitors each year, the city of Flagstaff and the towns of Williams and Tusayan

abound in accommodations and restaurants catering to canyon-bound travel-

ers. North of the Grand Canyon and bordering on southern Utah lies a region

known as the Arizona Strip. This is the most remote and untraveled region of

the state. The Grand Canyon acts as a natural boundary between the Arizona

Strip and the rest of the state, and the lack of paved roads and towns keeps

away all but the most dedicated explorers. Vermilion Cliffs National Monu-

ment is at the eastern end of the Arizona Strip, and the inaccessible Grand

Canyon–Parashant National Monument lies at the western end.

THE FOUR CORNERS The point where Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and New Mex-

3

ico come together is the only place in the U.S. where four states share a

common boundary. The region is also almost entirely composed of Hopi and

Navajo reservation land. This region of spectacular canyons and towering

mesas and buttes includes Canyon de Chelly, the Painted Desert, the Petri-

fied Forest, and Monument Valley.

EASTERN ARIZONA’S HIGH COUNTRY This area, which comprises the Mogol-

lon Rim region and the White Mountains, is a summertime escape for resi-

dents of the lowland desert areas, and abounds with mountain cabins and

Regions in Brief

summer homes. Most of this high country is covered with ponderosa pine

forests, laced with trout streams, and dotted with fishing lakes. Although

this region comes into its own in summer, it also sees some winter visitation

because it has the best ski area in the state: Sunrise Park Resort, on the

White Mountain Apache Indian Reservation. Because the area lacks

national parks, monuments, and other major geographical attractions, it is

not much of a destination for out-of-state visitors.

TINERARIES I

TUCSON Located a bit more than 100 miles south of Phoenix, Tucson is Ari-

zona’s second-most populous metropolitan area and is home to numerous

resorts and golf courses. The main attractions include Saguaro National

RIZONA

Park and the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum. With mountain ranges rising

A

UGGESTEDS

Minerals create the colors of the Painted Desert.

48

3

S

Watersports, including kayaking, are popular on western Arizona’s miles of lakeshore.

UGGESTED

in all directions, this city seems more in touch with its natural surroundings

than Phoenix, though traffic congestion and sprawl also plague Tucson. If

you prefer Boston to New York, San Francisco to Los Angeles, or Portland to

A

Seattle, you’ll likely prefer Tucson to Phoenix.

RIZONA

SOUTHERN ARIZONA Southern Arizona is a region of great contrasts, from des-

ert lowlands to mountain “islands” to vast grassy plains. Mile-high elevations

also account for southeastern Arizona having one of the most temperate

ITINERARIES

climates in the world. The mild climate has attracted lots of retirees, and it

also brings in rare birds (and birders) and helps support a small wine indus-

try. The western part of southern Arizona is lower in elevation and much

hotter than the southeastern corner of the state and, because much of this

area is a U.S. Air Force bombing range, is one of the least-visited corners of

the state. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, wedged between the

Arizona Highlights

vast Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge and the Tohono O’odham

Indian Reservation, preserves some of the most spectacular desert scenery

in this region. Other than the Tucson metropolitan area, there are few com-

munities of any size. However, a couple of interesting historic towns—Bis-

bee and Tubac—have become artists’ communities.

WESTERN ARIZONA Although Arizona is a landlocked state, its western region

is bordered by hundreds of miles of lakeshore that were created by the dam-

ming of the Colorado River. Consequently, the area has come to be known

as Arizona’s West Coast. Despite the fact that the low-lying lands of this

region are among the hottest places in the state during the summer (and the

warmest in winter), Arizona’s West Coast is a popular summer destination

for budget-conscious desert denizens. College students and families visit for

the water-skiing, fishing, and other watersports.

ARIZONA HIGHLIGHTS

Arizona is a big state, so don’t expect to see it all in 7 days. If you want to take in some of my favorite spots in just a week, you’ll need to do a lot of driving and get up early most mornings. (As an added incentive for early rising, let me tell you that

sunrises at most of the destinations listed in this itinerary are absolutely awe-inspiring.) This itinerary is best from fall through spring. During the summer, Phoenix is 49

just too hot; instead, consider heading straight to Sedona after touching down in

Arizona Highlights

Arizona in 2 Weeks

Phoenix. If your return flight isn’t too early, it’s possible to spend your last night in Sedona or Prescott and still have a fairly short drive to the airport in Phoenix.

Lake

Lake

Powell

Monument

Powell

Monument

Valley

Valley

DAY 1: Phoenix

Page

Page

Head straight for the pool at your resort—after all, lounging in the sun is one

Las Vegas

Grand

Las Vegas

Grand

Canyon

Canyon de

Canyon

Canyon de

of the main reasons to be here. If you’ve got time, visit the Desert Botani-

Chelly

Lake

Grand Canyon

Chelly

Lake

Grand Canyon

cal Garden (p. 91) around sunset. This garden has an amazing variety of

Mead

Village

Mead

Village

The Hopi

cacti and is an excellent introduction to the Arizona desert. Head to Scotts-

Kingman

Seligman

Kingman Seligman

Flagstaff

The

Flagstaff

Mesas

dale for dinner, and, if it happens to be a Thursday night, check out some of

Williams

Painted

Williams

3

Desert

the art galleries, many of which stay open late on Thursday. The next morn-

Sedona

Holbrook

Sedona

Holbrook

Prescott

Prescott

ing, visit the Heard Museum (p. 88), which is one of the nation’s premier

Lake Havasu

Lake Havasu

City

Show

Show

museums of Native American art and culture. Grab a bite to eat at the muse-

City

Low

Low

um’s excellent cafe or nearby at the Fry Bread House (p. 129), where you

Alpine

Scottsdale

Alpine

Phoenix

Phoenix

can try a fry-bread taco. After lunch head north to Sedona, and, if you leave

olorado

olorado

C

Tempe

C

Tempe

Phoenix early enough, take the scenic route through Wickenburg, Prescott,

Safford

Yuma

Safford

and Jerome. If you take this route, stop in Wickenburg at the Desert Cabal-

Yuma

Ajo

Ajo

leros Western Museum (p. 183) or in Prescott at the Phippen Museum

Tucson

Tucson

(p. 188). If you time it just right, you can catch the sunset over the Verde

Willcox

Willcox

Arizona Highlights

Valley from the artsy historic town of Jerome (p. 197), which is perched high Sonoyta

Tombstone

Sonoyta

Tombstone

Douglas

on the slopes of Mingus Mountain.

Douglas

Nogales

Agua

Nogales

Agua

DAY 2: Sedona

Prieta

Prieta

Sedona may be touristy, but the red-rock cliffs, buttes, and mesas that sur-

round the city make this one of the most beautiful places in America. Take a

TINERARIES

jeep tour (p. 184, p. 212, and p. 218) or hike the 4- to 5-mile loop trail

A Sojourn in

I

around Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte. Although this trail sees a lot of Southeastern Arizona

hikers, it is just about the best introduction to the amazing hiking that can be

done in the Sedona area. Head to Crescent Moon Picnic Area or Airport

RIZONA

Mesa for the sunset. If you don’t do a jeep tour this day, plan to do one the A

next morning.

60

Globe

191

70

77

Safford

UGGESTEDS

79

10

Tucson

Willcox

10

186

Chiricahua

19

Benson

National

Monument

90 Tombstone

80

Tubac

191

Sierra

82

Vista Bisbee

Douglas

Nogales

Agua

M E X I C O

Prieta

The historic town of Jerome has become a haven for artists.

50

Arizona Highlights

Arizona in 2 Weeks

Lake

Lake

Powell

Monument

Powell

Monument

Valley

Valley

Page

Page

Las Vegas

Grand

Las Vegas

Grand

Canyon

Canyon de

Canyon

Canyon de

Chelly

Lake

Grand Canyon

Chelly

Lake

Grand Canyon

Mead

Village

Mead

Village

Kingman

Seligman

Kingman Seligman

The Hopi

Flagstaff

The

Flagstaff

Mesas

Williams

Painted

Williams

Sedona

Desert

Holbrook

Sedona

Holbrook

Prescott

Prescott

Lake Havasu

Lake Havasu

City

Show

Show

City

Low

Low

Alpine

Scottsdale

Alpine

Phoenix

Phoenix

olorado

olorado

C

Tempe

C

Tempe

Yuma

Safford

Yuma

Safford

Ajo

Ajo

Tucson

Tucson

Willcox

Willcox

Sonoyta

Tombstone

Sonoyta

Tombstone

Douglas

Douglas

Nogales

Agua

Nogales

Agua

Prieta

Prieta

A Sojourn in

Southeastern Arizona

60

Globe

191

70

77

Safford

79

10

Tucson

Willcox

10

186

Chiricahua

19

Benson

National

Monument

90 Tombstone

80

Tubac

191

Sierra

82

Vista Bisbee

Douglas

Nogales

Agua

M E X I C O

Prieta

51

DAY 3: Grand Canyon

Drive north to the Grand Canyon

by way of scenic Oak Creek

Canyon (p. 215). Take U.S. 89

from Flagstaff to the east entrance

of Grand Canyon National Park.

It’s worthwhile to make the short

detour to see the Sinagua pueblo

ruins at Wupatki National

Monument (p. 284). Also be sure

3

to stop at the Cameron Trading

Post (p. 264) to see the gallery of

Native American artifacts in the

historic stone building across the

parking lot from the main trading

post. If you’ve developed a taste

for fry-bread tacos, be sure to have Canyon de Chelly.

lunch here. Stop at Desert View,

just inside the park entrance, and also Lipan Point, and catch the sunset

Arizona Highlights

over the Grand Canyon. Check into your hotel. The next day, get up early to

catch the sunrise, and then do a half-day hike down into the canyon.

DAY 4: Monument Valley

It’s a long drive from the Grand Canyon to Monument Valley Navajo

Tribal Park (p. 343), but it’s worth it. Arrive in time to take an afternoon

jeep tour of the valley with a Navajo guide, and stick around to take pictures

TINERARIES I

of the sunset on the Mitten Buttes.

DAY 5: Canyon de Chelly

Even if you’re not an early riser, I highly recommend getting up for sunrise

RIZONA

on the buttes and mesas of Monument Valley. Next, drive to Canyon de

A

Chelly National Monument (p. 334), which is still inhabited in summer

UGGESTEDS

The Grand Canyon.

52

by Navajo families who farm and raise sheep much the same way that their

ancestors did hundreds of years ago. Make reservations in advance for one

of the truck tours (p. 339) of the canyon. If you don’t have reservations,

you may be able to hire a Navajo guide to take you into the canyon by jeep

or on horseback. Alternatively, drive one of the rim drives. I recommend the

South Rim Drive (p. 337) because it provides an opportunity to hike down

into the canyon on the White House Ruins Trail (p. 337).

DAY 6: The Painted Desert & Petrified Forest

The next day, head west across the Hopi Reservation and stop in the village

of Walpi (p. 318), where you can do a guided tour of this ancient mesa-top

pueblo. Also be sure to stop at Tsakurshovi (p. 322), a tiny crafts shop that 3

specializes in traditional Hopi kachina dolls. Have lunch at the Hopi Cul-

tural Center (p. 320). Continue south to Holbrook and Petrified Forest

SUGGESTED

National Park (p. 326), which preserves both the petrified forest and parts

of the Painted Desert. End your day in Winslow at the historic La Posada

hotel (p. 316).

DAY 7: Phoenix

A

On the way back to Phoenix, stop to see the cliff dwellings at Montezuma

RIZONA

Castle National Monument (p. 203) near Camp Verde. If you’ve got a

sweet tooth, also stop at the Rock Springs Café (p. 186) for some of the

best pie in the state. After this whirlwind tour of Arizona’s highlights, you’ll

I

probably want to park yourself by the pool for the rest of the day.

TINERARIES

ARIZONA IN 2 WEEKS

Plan on spending 2 weeks in Arizona, and you’ll get a much better sense of this

state’s diverse landscapes. You can spend more time at the Grand Canyon, marvel

at massive saguaro cacti in the desert lowlands, spend a bit more time lounging

Arizona in 2 W

at a resort, and visit one or more of the state’s picturesque artists’ communities.

Just remember that Arizona’s size makes occasional long drives a necessity.

DAYS 1, 2 & 3: Tucson

To get yourself in vacation mode, head straight for the pool at your resort. If

eeks

you’re a hiker, try one of the trails in the foothills of the Santa Catalina

Mountains. Sabino Canyon (p. 400), with its trams and network of trails,

is just about the best place in the city for a quick hike. The next day, go west

to the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum (p. 402), the state’s single-best

introduction to the Sonoran Desert. Despite the name, this is more zoo than

museum. By the way, there’s a great cafe here.

After you’ve hung out with the hummingbirds and communed with the

coatis, drive a few miles farther west to Saguaro National Park (p. 403). This

park has units on both the east and west sides of Tucson, but this western

unit has the most impressive stands of the saguaro cacti for which the park

is named. Be sure to check out the petroglyphs at Signal Hill. On your third

day, drive south to the historic arts community of Tubac (p. 465). En route,

stop at Mission San Xavier del Bac (p. 404), a Spanish mission church that

is known as the “White Dove of the Desert.” In Tubac, check out the galler-

ies, Tubac Center of the Arts, and Tubac Presidio State Historic Park

53

3

eeks

The Spanish Mission San Xavier del Bac.

Hermit’s Rest blends in well with its surround-

ings at the Grand Canyon.

Arizona in 2 W

(p. 466), and then head a few miles south to Tumacácori National Histori-

cal Park (p. 467), which preserves the ruins of another Spanish mission

church.

DAYS 4 & 5: Sedona

TINERARIES

En route north to Sedona from Tucson, be sure to stop in Phoenix to visit the

I

Heard Museum (p. 88). This is the state’s best introduction to the Native

American cultures of the region. After lunch, take the scenic route to Sedona

via Wickenburg and Prescott. This will allow you to stop at Wickenburg’s Des-

RIZONA

ert Caballeros Western Museum (p. 183) for the cowboy perspective on

A

the Wild West. Alternatively, you could stop at Prescott’s Phippen Museum

(p. 188), which showcases artworks by members of the Cowboy Artists of

America. If you time things right, you should be in the historic artists’ commu-

nity of Jerome just in time to catch the sunset on Sedona’s distant red rocks.

UGGESTED

To get out amid the red rocks of Sedona, take a jeep tour (p. 217) or

S

hike the 4- to 5-mile loop trail around Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte

(p. 219). In the afternoon, visit either the petroglyphs at V Bar V Heritage

Site (p. 212) or the Sinagua ruins at Palatki Heritage Site (p. 213).

When the sun sets, be sure you’re either at the Crescent Moon Picnic

Area (p. 215) or atop Airport Mesa.

DAYS 6 & 7: Grand Canyon

For DAY 6, follow my suggestions for DAY 3 in the “Arizona Highlights”

itinerary above.

The next day, get up early to catch the sunrise, and then do a day hike

into the canyon or mule ride along the canyon rim. If you plan ahead, you

can even ride a mule down into the canyon and spend the night at Phantom

Ranch. If you’re not a hiker, spend the day exploring along Hermit Drive,

where there are numerous overlooks. Spend some time sitting by the fire at

54

Hermit’s Rest, a fascinating little building designed by Mary Elizabeth

Jane Colter, who designed several of the most interesting and attractive

buildings on the South Rim.

DAYS 8 & 9: Page & Lake Powell

From the Grand Canyon, go northeast to the town of Page. En route, you

may want to make a short detour to Tuba City, where you can see dinosaur

tracks (p. 325) in sedimentary stone west of town. Page sits atop a mesa

overlooking Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (p. 350) and Lake

Powell, the reservoir created by Glen Canyon Dam. This reservoir is the

most astonishing body of water in the West. The vast miragelike lake is

flanked by red-rock canyon walls similar to those of the Grand Canyon. You

3

can tour the massive dam and rent a variety of boats for exploring the lake.

The morning after you arrive, take the boat tour up the lake to Rainbow

SUGGESTED

Bridge National Monument (p. 352).

DAY 10: Monument Valley

From Page, head to Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park (p. 343). On

the way, be sure to visit Antelope Canyon (p. 353), which is one of the

A

most accessible slot canyons in the Southwest. If you get an early enough

RIZONA

start, you should also have time to visit Navajo National Monument

(p. 341) and take a look at the Betatakin cliff dwellings. Just be sure you

arrive at Monument Valley early enough in the afternoon to do a jeep tour of

I

the valley with a Navajo guide. Stick around to take pictures of the sunset

TINERARIES

on the Mitten Buttes. Also, the unforgettable landscape here makes Monu-

ment Valley the best place in Arizona to go for a horseback ride.

DAYS 11 & 12: Canyon de Chelly

The next day, perhaps after a horseback ride or jeep tour (whichever you

didn’t do the day before), drive to Canyon de Chelly National Monu-

Arizona in 2 W

ment (p. 334). The following day, do one of the truck tours (p. 339) of the canyon, or hire a Navajo guide to take you into the canyon by jeep or on

horseback. Alternatively, drive the rim drives. The South Rim Drive

(p. 337) is my favorite of the two because it provides the opportunity to hike

down into the canyon on the White House Ruins Trail (p. 337).

eeks

DAY 13: The Hopi Mesas

After leaving Canyon de Chelly, drive south to Ganado and visit the Hub-

bell Trading Post National Historic Site (p. 331). Then head west

across the Hopi Reservation and stop in the village of Walpi (p. 318), where

you can take a guided tour of this ancient mesa-top pueblo. Be sure to stop

at Tsakurshovi (p. 322), a tiny crafts shop that specializes in traditional

Hopi kachina dolls. Continue south to Winslow and stay at the historic La

Posada hotel (p. 316).

DAY 14: Phoenix

On your way back to Phoenix to catch a plane home, stop at Meteor Cra-

ter (p. 315), which is 20 miles east of Winslow. You may also want to have

lunch in Flagstaff. Once you get back to Phoenix, lie by the pool and chill

out for a few hours.

55

3

Meteor Crater, east of Winslow.

n Arizona

A SOJOURN IN SOUTHEASTERN

ARIZONA

This corner of the state may not have the major natural attractions that northern

Arizona has, but it does have loads of Wild West history; plenty of natural beauty;

and great resorts, restaurants, and museums in and around Tucson. With the

n in Southeaster

exception of the Tucson area, the climate here is mild year-round, so you’ll be

comfortable whether you visit in summer or winter. Southeastern Arizona is also

one of the best bird-watching regions in the country. Many bird species reach the

A Sojour northern limits of their ranges in this area.

DAYS 1, 2 & 3: Tucson

Spend your first few days explor-

ing Tucson and, if the weather is

warm, lounging by the pool. On

TINERARIES I

your first full day in town, head

first to the Arizona–Sonora

Desert Museum (p. 402), which

RIZONA

is more zoo than museum and is

A

the state’s best introduction to the

flora and fauna of the Sonoran

Desert. The museum is just a few

miles down the road from the

west unit of Saguaro National

UGGESTEDS

Park (p. 403), so once you’ve got-

ten familiar with life in the desert,

strike out on the trail or on a sce-

nic drive to get up close and per-

sonal with some gigantic saguaro

cacti. If you’re in good shape, I

recommend hiking the Hugh

Morris Trail to the summit of The Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum is a

Wasson Peak, which has superb good intro to indigenous flora and fauna.

56

views across miles of desert. Try to stick around until sunset so that you can

watch the light of the setting sun on the petroglyphs at Signal Hill, which

is within the national park. The next day, visit the Tucson Museum of Art

and wander around downtown Tucson’s historic neighborhoods to get a feel

for the city’s mix of Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo history. If your timing is

right, take a guided tour of one of the museum’s historic homes. In the after-

noon, visit Tohono Chul Park and Sabino Canyon.

DAY 4: Tubac

Take a day trip south toward Mexico. Just south of Tucson, you’ll come to

Mission San Xavier del Bac (p. 404), a historic Spanish mission church.

This is a good place to try Indian fry-bread tacos; there’s a little walk-up food

3

window in the plaza across the parking lot from the church, and Native

Americans often set up grills and sell food from stalls in the parking lot. Con-

SUGGESTED

tinue south to the historic town of Tubac, which was founded by the Span-

ish and is now filled with art galleries. Just south of Tubac is Tumacácori

National Historical Park (p. 467), where you can see the ruins of another

mission church. Spend the night at the Tubac Golf Resort & Spa (p. 468).

A

DAYS 5 & 6: Bisbee or Sierra Vista

RIZONA

From Tubac, drive down to the border town of Nogales and then head east to

Patagonia, a small town best known for its great bird-watching, and Sonoita, which is both wide-open ranch country and Arizona’s own little wine country.

I

Birders should be sure to stop at Patagonia Lake State Park/Sonoita

TINERARIES

Creek State Natural Area (p. 476), the Nature Conservancy’s Patagonia–

Sonoita Creek Preserve (p. 475), and Paton’s Birder’s Haven (p. 475).

Try to time things so that you can have lunch at Patagonia’s Velvet Elvis Pizza

Company (p. 477). If you’re a birder, you’ll want to stay a couple of nights at one of the inns south of Sierra Vista. Several inns cater specifically to the birders who flock to the area to see hummingbirds at Ramsey Canyon Preserve

A Sojour

n in Southeaster

n Arizona

Sonoita is home to several wineries, including Callaghan Vineyards.

57

(p. 482) and a wide variety of other

birds at area birding hot spots such

as the San Pedro Riparian

National Conservation Area

(p. 482). If you’re not a birder, con-

tinue to the funky historic town of

Bisbee, which is full of countercul-

tural types who have turned this

former copper-mining town into

the most interesting small town in

3

Arizona. Be sure to eat dinner at Rock formations at Kartchner Caverns State

Cafe Roka (p. 495). While you’re Park®.

in the area, visit Coronado

National Memorial (p. 481) to learn about the Spanish explorer who passed

through this region between 1540 and 1542. And, of course, you shouldn’t

miss Tombstone (p. 487), home of the famous shootout at the O.K. Corral.

DAYS 7 & 8: The Chiricahuas

From Bisbee or Sierra Vista, head northeast to Chiricahua National

rails of Arizona

Monument (p. 500) and Cochise Stronghold (p. 503). At the former,

hike part or all of the Heart of Rocks Trail, which is one of the most

memorable hikes in the state. Unfortunately, along this hike, you will see

Native T

signs of a large forest fire that burned through these mountains in 2011. If

you have an interest in Western history, save time for the 3-mile round-trip

hike to Fort Bowie National Historic Site (p. 501). You’ll be hiking with

the ghosts of Apaches, soldiers, and stagecoach travelers. On your last day

in the area, visit the remote Amerind Foundation Museum (p. 500),

which has an outstanding collection of Native American artifacts and is set

TINERARIES I

amid huge granite boulders in Texas Canyon. On your way back to Tucson,

be sure to detour south from Benson to Kartchner Caverns State Park®

(p. 480). The caverns here are among the most spectacular in the country.

RIZONA A NATIVE TRAILS OF ARIZONA

You may think you’re venturing off into the great unknown when you take off

across Arizona, but believe me, others have been here before you. Down in the

southeastern part of the state near the San Pedro River, archaeologists discovered

UGGESTED

a mammoth kill site that proves humans were living in Arizona more than 10,000

S

years ago. All across Arizona you’ll find signs of those who have come before. Cliff dwellings, pueblo ruins, and petroglyphs abound in the desert. This itinerary will

help you search out the outstanding remains of Arizona’s Native American cul-

tures both past and present.

DAYS 1, 2 & 3: Phoenix

Start in Phoenix at the superb Heard Museum (p. 88) to learn all about

the tribes of the region and see samples of their traditional arts and crafts.

Right in Phoenix, at Pueblo Grande Museum and Archaeological

Park (p. 92), you can visit the remains of a Hohokam village and learn

about the people who once built an extensive network of canals here in the

middle of the desert. When you visit the Heard Museum, be sure to have

58

Native Trails of Arizona

Arizona in the Winter

Lake

Lake

Monument

Powell

Powell

Valley

Page

Page

Las Vegas

Grand

Las Vegas

Grand

Kayenta

Canyon

Canyon

Canyon de

Lake

Grand Canyon

Chelly

Lake

Grand

Mead

Village

Mead

Canyon

Seligman

The Hopi

Kingman Seligman

Village

Flagstaff

Mesas

Kingman

Williams

Flagstaff

Prescott

Sedona

Holbrook

Prescott

Sedona

Holbrook

Lake Havasu

Lake Havasu

Show

Show

City

City

Low

Low

Scottsdale

Alpine

Alpine

Scottsdale

olorado

Phoenix

olorado

Phoenix

Tempe

Tempe

C

C

Safford

Safford

Yuma

Yuma

Ajo

Ajo

Tucson

Tucson

Willcox

Willcox

Sonoyta

Sonoyta

Tombstone

Tombstone

Douglas

Douglas

Nogales

Nogales

Agua

Agua

Prieta

Prieta

lunch at the nearby Fry Bread House (p. 129), where you can try fry-bread

tacos, which are a staple on reservations across the state. Visit the Deer

Valley Rock Art Center (p. 90) to see a dense concentration of petro-

glyphs and then, late in the day, go to the Desert Botanical Garden

(p. 91). In addition to having lots of cacti on display, this attraction has an

ethnobotanical garden where you can learn about the desert plants tradi-

tionally utilized by the Native inhabitants of the Sonoran Desert. On your

third day, do a day trip out of the city. If you head south to Coolidge, you can

visit Casa Grande Ruins National Monument (p. 96), and then drive

northeast to Globe to see the reconstructed Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeo-

logical Park (p. 177). After lunch, continue to Tonto National Monu-

ment (p. 176), which is the southernmost cliff dwelling in the state. Return

to Phoenix on the winding, gravel Apache Trail route.

DAYS 4 & 5: Sedona

From Phoenix, journey north to Sedona. En route, there are three stops you

should make. At Camp Verde, detour to Cottonwood to visit the recon-

structed hilltop ruins of Tuzigoot National Monument (p. 204). Head

back to I-17 and continue north to Montezuma Castle National Monu-

ment (p. 203), another well-preserved cliff dwelling. At the Ariz. 179 exit

for Sedona, get off I-17, but turn away from Sedona, not toward it. A few

miles down this road is the V Bar V Heritage Site (p. 212), which

59

3

The Heard Museum’s large kachina doll collection.

preserves one of the most impressive petroglyph sites in the state. The next

day, after you’ve spent some time ogling the red rocks, head west of town to

Palatki Heritage Site (p. 213), where you can see the ruins of Sinagua

rails of Arizona

cliff dwellings. While you’re out this way, hike up Boynton Canyon, where

you may spot some of the canyon’s small ruin sites.

Native T DAY 6: Flagstaff

It’s barely an hour’s drive from Sedona to Flagstaff, and the first place to visit

there is the Museum of Northern Arizona (p. 282). This museum has

outstanding exhibits on the Native cultures of the Colorado Plateau. Out-

side of town, you’ll find two national monuments that preserve old ruin

sites. Wupatki National Monument (p. 284) is, in my opinion, the more

TINERARIES

impressive of the two. Not only can you wander around several Sinagua

I

pueblo sites, but at the main pueblo of Wupatki, you’ll also find both a ball

court similar to those found in Mexico and a fascinating “blowhole” that

either blows or sucks air, depending on temperature and barometric pres-

RIZONA

sure. Closer to Flagstaff, you can explore small cliff dwellings at Walnut

A

Canyon National Monument (p. 284). The small rooms wedged into the

cliffs at this monument were also built by the Sinagua.

DAY 7: The Hopi Mesas

From Flagstaff, head east to the villages of the Hopi mesas. Along the way,

UGGESTEDS

you’ll pass numerous shops selling Hopi silver overlay jewelry, as well as

kachina dolls, pottery, and baskets. Stop at the Hopi Cultural Center

(p. 320) to tour the small museum and have a lunch of traditional Hopi

stew. At First Mesa, you can take a guided tour of the ancient cliff-top vil-

lage of Walpi (p. 318). Continue east to the Navajo community of Ganado,

where you can tour the historic Hubbell Trading Post (p. 331), and then

backtrack a few miles to head north to Canyon de Chelly National Mon-

ument (p. 334).

DAY 8: Canyon de Chelly National Monument

Do a “shake-and-bake” truck tour of Canyon de Chelly. These tours, which

are in rugged military surplus trucks outfitted with bench seats, head deep

into the canyon to places you’re not allowed to visit without a Navajo guide.

60

You’ll stop at numerous ruin sites and see well-preserved pictographs. You

may even encounter Navajo farmers and shepherds who still live in the can-

yon during the summer months. See p. 334.

DAY 9: Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park (p. 343) is really a landscape

attraction and not a cultural attraction, but you can’t visit this park without

meeting a few Navajos. Local families operate jeep tours, horseback tours,

and hiking tours. Take a jeep tour (p. 339), and you’ll not only get to see

some interesting petroglyphs, but you might also encounter a Navajo gazing

off into the distance as he sits astride his noble steed. (I’m not kidding; there

really are people who pose on horseback for photos.)

3

DAYS 10 & 11: Grand Canyon

S

For many centuries, Native Americans lived in and near the the Grand

UGGESTED

Canyon (p. 239). All through the canyon there are caves, cliff dwellings,

and pueblo sites. However, most of them are way off the beaten track and

hard to get to. That said, you should be sure to visit the Tusayan Museum

(p. 248), which is built on the site of an Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) ruin.

A

En route to the Grand Canyon from Monument Valley, be sure to visit

RIZONA

Navajo National Monument (p. 341), where you can take a 1-mile walk

to a viewpoint overlooking the large Betatakin cliff dwelling. If you have an

extra day to spare and can be here at the monument early in the morning,

I

you can try to get a space on one of the guided hikes to the Betatakin ruins.

TINERARIES

Spend a second day in Grand Canyon National Park exploring along the

park’s rim drives or hiking down into the canyon.

DAY 12: Phoenix

Head back to Phoenix by taking Ariz. 64 south to U.S. 180 to Flagstaff,

where you’ll pick up I-17. Once you reach Phoenix, check into your hotel,

Native T

pull up a lounge chair by the pool, and meditate on all that you’ve seen as

you’ve followed the Native trails of Arizona.

rails of Arizona

The ball court at Wupatki National Monument.

61

ARIZONA IN THE WINTER

Arizona in the winter means golf, desert explorations, and enough sunshine to

help you forget all about shoveling the snow out of your driveway back home.

Although I have written this itinerary with the emphasis on Phoenix, you could

just as easily spend the bulk of your week in Tucson. You’d just have a longer drive north to Sedona.

DAYS 1, 2 & 3: Phoenix

I know I’ve said it before, but when I get to the sunshine and warmth of the

3

desert, I always make the resort pool my very first stop. Order a froufrou

cocktail, grab a lounge chair, and say, “Aaaahhh.” Repeat when necessary for

the next 3 days. Once you’ve relaxed for a bit, it’s time to get to know this

city, and the best way I can think of is a bit strenuous but, for anyone in good

shape, exhilarating. What I’m talking about is a little peak bagging. If you’ve

inter

got lots of energy, hike up Camelback Mountain (p. 106) or Piestewa

Peak (p. 107) for incomparable views of the valley. While you’re up here

with all the other buff hikers, get your bearings. After a shower (you’ll need

it), head to Scottsdale for dinner and check out some of the great nightlife.

On your second day, play a round of golf or some tennis in the morning, or,

if you’re more interested in culture, visit the Heard Museum (p. 88) and

Arizona in the W

the Phoenix Art Museum (p. 89). In the afternoon, get in another swim,

and then, around sunset, visit the Desert Botanical Garden (p. 91).

Phoenix is a huge metropolitan area, so to see what the desert is really like,

drive the Apache Trail (p. 175), east of the city, on DAY 3. This drive will

take all day, so get an early start.

DAYS 4 & 5: Sedona

TINERARIES I

Maybe you’ve never heard of Sedona before, but once you see the red-rock

cliffs, buttes, and mesas that frame this wealthy community, you’ll probably

RIZONA A

UGGESTEDS

Camelback Mountain is a popular spot for hikers, especially in winter.

62

start scheming ways to move here. Sedona quite simply has the most beauti-

ful setting of any town in the West. On your way north from Phoenix, be

sure to stop at Montezuma Castle National Monument (p. 203). Once

in Sedona, your best introduction to the area is a jeep tour (p. 218). Just

make sure that by sunset you’re atop Airport Mesa (p. 213) to take in the

natural light show. The next day, in the morning, visit the V Bar V Heri-

tage Site (p. 219), which is one of the most impressive petroglyph sites in

the state and is at its photogenic best before the sun hits the rocks in the

early afternoon. After you’ve marveled at these ancient symbols, do some

hiking or mountain biking. Sedona is surrounded by national forest, and

there are dozens of miles of easily accessed trails. I recommend any of the

trails to the west of the city. Hiking the Boynton Canyon Trail (p. 213) or

3

the Vultee Arch Trail (p. 219) will put you close to Palatki Heritage Site (p. 213), a small Sinagua cliff dwelling. You’ll also end the day not far from

SUGGESTED

Crescent Moon Picnic Area (p. 215), where you can watch the sunset

light up Cathedral Rock as the waters of Oak Creek flow by in the fore-

ground. If you’re a golfer, be sure to get in a round amid the red rocks while

you’re in town.

A

DAY 6: Grand Canyon

RIZONA

This is a tough one; if you plan this day in advance, you may be disap-

pointed. The road to the Grand Canyon (p. 239) is sometimes closed by

snow in winter, though usually only for a short time. Still, you came to Ari-

ITINERARIES

zona to get away from snow, right? So, who wants to head back into sub-

freezing temperatures? But as long as you’re this close, you might as well try

to see the canyon, so if the weather is good, make a mad dash up to the

canyon and snap some photos before your fingers freeze. Either spend the

night at the canyon or drive back to Sedona the same day. Your best route for

this quick visit is to drive north to Flagstaff and then take U.S. 89 north to

Ariz. 64, which leads west to the east entrance of Grand Canyon National

Arizona in the W

Park. Return via U.S. 180 to Flagstaff.

DAY 7: Phoenix

Head back to Phoenix by way of Jerome (p. 197), a former mining town

that is now an artists’ community. Peruse the galleries and tour the ghost

town and mine on the edge of town. If you have time, schedule a ride on the

inter

Verde Canyon Railroad (p. 205). Try to get in one last swim when you get

back to your resort in Phoenix.

63

4

PHOENIX,

SCOTTSDALE

& THE VALLEY

OF THE SUN

Forget the sun-baked sand dunes and stoic cowboys on their

trusty steeds. Think Los Angeles without the Pacific. Sprawling

across more than 500 square miles of what once was cactus

and creosote bushes, the greater Phoenix metropolitan area,

also known as the Valley of the Sun, is home to dozens of

resorts, hundreds of golf courses, countless great restaurants, fascinating

museums, and a red-hot nightlife scene. However, in the end, it is the

sunshine and winter warmth that are the city’s biggest attractions.

Things to Do Although it’s known for its furnacelike summers, actually find-

ing the desert in Phoenix can be a challenge. At the Desert Botanical Garden,

marvel at bizarre desert plants from around the world. Hike South Mountain 4

Park or Camelback Mountain to experience Arizona’s own Sonoran Desert.

For a superb introduction to Native American cultures, visit the Heard

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Museum, and for a glimpse of the Wild West visit Goldfield Ghost Town,

Rawhide, or Cave Creek. March’s baseball spring-training camps bring the boys of summer (and their fans) to town.

Active Pursuits Ample winter sunshine and more than 200 golf courses

mean golfers vacationing in the Valley have plenty of opportunities to improve

their handicaps. For wide, forgiving

greens, head to such classics as the

Wigwam or the Arizona Biltmore

Golf Club. Once you’re up to par, tee

off at a challenging desert course such

as Troon North Golf Club or the

Boulders. If you’re not a golfer, go

Intr

take a hike or redefine lounging by the

oduction

pool as an active pursuit.

Restaurants & Dining Beans and

black coffee may once have kept cow-

boys contented, but today, Phoenicians

are a bit more discriminating. Savor the

flavor combinations of James Beard–

award-winning chefs, or troll for dinner

at one of the many restaurants along

the Scottsdale Waterfront. Wake up

your taste buds at Mexican and

Southwestern restaurants serving up

bold flavors, with or without fire. Cow-

boy steakhouses offer up both hefty

steaks and family fun.

Outdoor dining at Scottsdale’s AZ88.

previous page: The Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art.

65

Nightlife & Entertainment It wasn’t that long ago that a harmonica by the

campfire constituted nightlife in these parts, but today, the Valley of the Sun club scene is as hot as, well, Arizona in the summer. Swanky Scottsdale bars and night

clubs, such as AZ88, Myst, and Axis/Radius, lure the city’s hip fashionistas and the occasional Hollywood celebrity. Cowboys, urban and otherwise, can ride

off into the sunset and do a bit of boot scootin’ at bars such as the Rusty Spur and the Buffalo Chip Saloon.

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN PHOENIX

A stroll through the Desert Botanical Garden: There is no better introduc-

tion to the desert than this beautifully landscaped garden, which stays open

after dark with dramatic lighting illuminating the strange and wonderful cacti.

Throughout the year, there are concerts and special events. See p. 91.

4

A round of golf at the Boulders or Troon North Golf Club: Winter in Phoe-

nix means only one thing to a lot of people—golf, golf, and more golf. It this

describes you, then plan on splurging on a round at one or both of these

unforgettable golf courses. See p. 102 and p. 104.

Exploring desert trails: Whether you take a leisurely stroll, go for a long hike,

or climb a mountain, you can’t say you’ve done Phoenix until you’ve com-

muned with the cactus along a desert trail. See p. 105.

A night on the town in downtown Scottsdale: With the Valley’s greatest

ravel Experiences

concentration of bars and nightclubs, downtown Scottsdale is a night owl’s

playground. See p. 146.

Best T

Touring Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West: For many years, iconic Ameri-

can architect Frank Lloyd Wright spent his winters in the desert north of

Scottsdale. His sprawling winter “camp” is a fascinating introduction to one of

the greatest architects of the 20th century. See p. 79.

ESSENTIALS

Arriving

BY PLANE Centrally located 3 miles east of downtown Phoenix, Sky Harbor

International Airport, 3400 E. Sky Harbor Blvd. ( 602/273-3300;

www.phxskyharbor.com), has three terminals, with a free 24-hour shuttle

bus offering frequent service between them. For information on airlines

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

serving Phoenix, see chapter 12.

There are two entrances to the airport. The west entrance can be accessed

from either the Papago Freeway (I-10) or 24th Street, while the east entrance

can be accessed from the Hohokam Expressway (Ariz. 143) or the Sky Harbor

Expressway (Ariz. 153), which is an extension of 44th Street. If you’re headed

to downtown Phoenix, leave by way of the 24th Street exit and continue west

on Washington Street. If you’re headed to Scottsdale, Tempe, or Mesa, head

east out of the airport and follow signs for Ariz. 202 Loop.

There is also an alternative airport on the east side of the Valley. The

Phoenix-Mesa Gateway Airport (AZA), 6033 S. Sossaman Rd., Mesa

( 480/988-7600; www.phxmesagateway.org), is served by Allegiant

66

Downtown Phoenix’s skyline.

Airlines ( 702/505-8888; www.allegiantair.com), which has service

from small cities in the Northwest and Midwest. This airport is south of

Ariz. 202 Loop at the Power Road exit.

SuperShuttle ( 800/258-3826 or 602/244-9000; www.super 4

shuttle.com) offers 24-hour door-to-door van service between Sky Harbor

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Airport and resorts, hotels, and homes throughout the Valley. Per-person

shared-ride fares average $13 to $15 to the downtown and Tempe area, $17

to downtown Scottsdale, and $25 to $32 to north Scottsdale.

Taxis can be found outside all three terminals and cost only slightly

more than shuttle vans. You can also call AAA/Yellow Cab ( 602/888-

8888), Apache Taxi ( 480/557-7000), or Mayflower Cab ( 602/

955-1355). Taxis from the airport charge $5 for turning on the meter, a $1

airport surcharge, $2.10 per mile, and a minimum fare of $15. A taxi from

the airport to downtown Phoenix will cost around $16; to Scottsdale,

between $21 and $36.

Metro ( 602/253-5000; www.valleymetro.org), the valley’s light-

rail line, connects Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport with the cities of Phoenix,

Essentials

Tempe, and Mesa. Metro runs daily every 10 to 20 minutes, between 4am

and 11:40pm (until 2:40am or later on weekends). To take the light rail,

you’ll first need to ride the free airport shuttle (or, by early 2013, the Sky

Train) to the light-rail station at the corner of Washington and 44th streets.

The ride from the light-rail station to downtown takes about 15 minutes and

costs $1.75. There is no Metro service to Scottsdale, so you’ll first need to

go to Tempe and then transfer to a northbound Valley Metro bus.

BY CAR Phoenix is connected to Los Angeles and Tucson by I-10 and to Flag-

staff via I-17. If you’re headed to Scottsdale, the easiest route is to take the

Red Mountain Freeway (Ariz. 202) east to U.S. 101 N. This latter freeway

loops all the way around the east, north, and west sides of the Valley. The

Superstition Freeway (U.S. 60) leads to Tempe, Mesa, and Chandler.

BY TRAIN There is no passenger rail service to Phoenix. Amtrak ( 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) will sell you a ticket to Phoenix, but you’ll have to

take a shuttle bus from either Flagstaff or Tucson. The scheduling is so hor-

rible on these routes that you’d have to be a total masochist to opt for

Amtrak service to Phoenix. There is a closer stop to Phoenix, in the com-

munity of Maricopa, but there is no public transportation option to get you

from there to Phoenix.

67

Visitor Information

You’ll find tourist information desks in all three terminals at Sky Harbor Airport. The city’s main visitor center is the Greater Phoenix Convention &

Visitors Bureau, 125 N. Second St., Ste. 120 ( 877/225-5749 or 602/254-6500; www.visitphoenix.com; Mon–Fri 8am–5pm), across from the main entrance

of the Hyatt Regency in downtown Phoenix.

The Visitor Information Line ( 602/252-5588) has recorded informa-

tion about current events in Phoenix and is updated weekly.

If you’re staying in Scottsdale, you can get information at the Scottsdale

Convention & Visitors Bureau Visitor Center, Galleria Corporate Center,

4343 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 170 ( 800/782-1117; www.scottsdalecvb.com;

Mon–Fri 8am–5pm).

City Layout

MAIN ARTERIES & STREETS U.S. Loop 101 forms a loop around the east,

4

north, and west sides of the Valley, providing freeway access to Scottsdale

from I-17 on the north side of Phoenix and from U.S. 60 in Tempe.

I-17 (Black Canyon Fwy.), which connects Phoenix with Flagstaff,

is the city’s main north-south freeway. This freeway curves to the east just

south of downtown (where it is renamed the Maricopa Fwy. and merges

with I-10). I-10, which connects Phoenix with Los Angeles and Tucson, is

Essentials

called the Papago Freeway on the west side of the Valley and as it passes

north of downtown; as it curves around to pass to the west and south of the

airport, it merges with I-17 and is renamed the Maricopa Freeway. At

Tempe, this freeway curves to the south and heads out of the Valley.

North of the airport, Ariz. 202 (Red Mountain Fwy.) heads east

from I-10 and passes along the north side of Tempe, providing access to

downtown Tempe, Arizona State University, Mesa, and Scottsdale (via U.S.

Loop 101). On the east side of the airport, Ariz. 143 (Hohokam Expwy.)

connects Ariz. 202 with I-10.

At the interchange of I-10 and Ariz. 202, northwest of Sky Harbor Air-

port, Ariz. 51 (Piestewa Fwy.) heads north through the center of Phoenix

to U.S. Loop 101 and is the best north-south route in the city.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

South of the airport off I-10, U.S. 60 (Superstition Fwy.) heads east

to Tempe, Chandler, Mesa, and Gilbert. U.S. Loop 101 leads north from

U.S. 60 (and Ariz. 202) through Scottsdale and across the north side of

Phoenix to connect with I-17. U.S. 60 and U.S. Loop 101 provide the best

route from the airport to the Scottsdale resorts. U.S. Loop 101 also heads

south through Chandler to connect with I-10. This section is called the

Price Freeway. The section of this freeway north through Scottsdale is

called the Pima Freeway.

Secondary highways in the Valley include the Beeline Highway

(Ariz. 87), which starts at the east end of Ariz. 202 (Red Mountain Fwy.)

in Mesa and leads to Payson, and Grand Avenue (U.S. 60), which starts

downtown and leads west to Sun City and Wickenburg.

Phoenix and the surrounding cities of Mesa, Tempe, Scottsdale, and

Chandler, and even those cities farther out in the Valley, are laid out in a grid

pattern with major avenues and roads about every mile. For traveling east to

west across Phoenix, your best choices (other than the above-mentioned

freeways) are Camelback, Indian School, and McDowell roads. For traveling

68

north and south, 44th Street, 24th Street, and Central Avenue are good

choices. Hayden Road is a north-south alternative to Scottsdale Road, which

gets jammed at rush hours.

FINDING AN ADDRESS Central Avenue, which runs north to south through

downtown Phoenix, is the starting point for all east-and-west street number-

ing. Washington Street is the starting point for north and south number-

ing. North-to-south numbered streets are to be found on the east side of the city, while north-to-south numbered avenues will be found on the west. For

the most part, street numbers advance by 100 with each block. Odd-num-

bered addresses are on the south and east sides of streets, while even-num-

bered addresses are on the north and west sides of streets.

For example, if you’re looking for 4454 E. Camelback Rd., you’ll find it

44 blocks east of Central Avenue between 44th and 45th streets on the

north side of the street. If you’re looking for 2905 N. 35th Ave., you’ll find it

35 blocks west of Central Avenue and 29 blocks north of Washington Street

on the east side of the street. Just for general reference, Camelback Road

marks the 5000 block north. Also, whenever you’re getting directions, ask 4

for the cross street closest to where you’re going. Street numbers can be

hard to spot when you’re driving past at 45 mph.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

STREET MAPS The street maps handed out by rental-car companies may be

good for general navigation around the city, but they are almost useless for

finding a particular address if it is not on a major arterial. If you don’t have a

navigation system in your car or a map program on your phone, as soon as

you can, stop at a minimart and buy a Phoenix map. Unfortunately, you’ll

probably also have to buy a separate Scottsdale map. Alternatively, if you are

a member of AAA, you can get a good Phoenix map before you leave home.

You can also get a simple map at the airport tourist information desks or at

the downtown visitor center. However, your best bet these days is to rent a

car with a navigation system, or bring your own with you.

Essentials

Neighborhoods in Brief

Because of urban sprawl, Phoenix has yielded its importance to an area known as

the Valley of the Sun (or just “the Valley”), an area encompassing Phoenix and its

metropolitan area of more than 20 cities. Consequently, as outlying cities have

taken on regional importance, neighborhoods per se have lost much of their sig-

nificance. Think of the Valley’s many cities as automobile-oriented neighbor-

hoods. That said, there are also some actual neighborhoods worth noting.

DOWNTOWN PHOENIX Roughly bordered by Thomas Road on the north,

Buckeye Road on the south, 19th Avenue on the west, and Seventh Street

on the east, downtown is primarily a business, financial, and government

district, where both the city hall and the state capitol are located. Down-

town Phoenix is also the Valley’s prime sports, entertainment, and museum

district. The Arizona Diamondbacks play big-league baseball at Chase

Field, while the Phoenix Suns shoot hoops at the US Airways Center. Of course, there are also lots of sports bars in the area. Three major performing

arts venues—the historic Orpheum Theatre, Symphony Hall, and the

Herberger Theater Center—are located here. Downtown museums and

attractions include the Arizona Science Center, Heritage Square (his-

toric homes), the Children’s Museum of Phoenix, and the Arizona

69

Capitol Museum. On the northern edge of downtown, along the Central

Avenue corridor, are the Heard Museum, the Phoenix Central Library

(an architectural gem), and the Phoenix Art Museum. Downtown Phoe-

nix is also an art-gallery district featuring cutting-edge contemporary art. In

recent years, condominiums have been proliferating downtown and have

infused the area with new life.

THE CAMELBACK CORRIDOR & BILTMORE DISTRICT This neighborhood cen-

ters on Camelback Road between 24th and 44th streets and is Phoenix’s

upscale shopping, residential, and business district. The area is character-

ized by modern office buildings and is anchored by the Arizona Biltmore

Hotel and Biltmore Fashion Park shopping mall.

SCOTTSDALE A separate city of more than 200,000 people, Scottsdale extends

from Tempe in the south to Carefree in the north, a distance of more than

20 miles. Scottsdale Road between Indian School Road and Shea Boulevard

was once known as Resort Row and was home to more than a dozen major

4

resorts. However, as Scottsdale has sprawled ever northward, so, too, have

the resorts. North Scottsdale has now become the center of the resort,

shopping, and restaurant scene. Downtown Scottsdale—which is made up

of Old Town, the Main Street Arts and Antiques District, the Marshall Way

Contemporary Arts District, the Fifth Avenue Shops, and the Scottsdale

Waterfront—is filled with tourist shops, galleries, boutiques, Native Ameri-

Essentials

can crafts stores, and restaurants.

TEMPE Tempe is the home of Arizona State University and has lots of night-

clubs and bars as well as all the other trappings of a university town. Mill

Avenue, which has dozens of interesting shops along a stretch of about 4

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Mill Avenue buzzes on weekends with stu-

Antiques shops line the streets of downtown

dents from nearby Arizona State University.

Glendale.

70

blocks, is the center of activity both day and night. This is one of the few

areas in the Valley where locals actually walk the streets and hang out at

sidewalk cafes. (Old Town Scottsdale always has people on its streets, but

few are locals.)

PARADISE VALLEY If Scottsdale is Phoenix’s Beverly Hills, then Paradise Valley

is its Bel-Air. This is the most exclusive community in the Valley and is

almost entirely residential, but you won’t see too many of the more lavish

homes because they’re set on large tracts of land.

MESA This eastern suburb of Phoenix is the Valley’s main high-tech area. Large

shopping malls, numerous inexpensive chain motels, a couple of small

museums, and the beautiful Mesa Arts Center attract both locals and visi-

tors to Mesa.

CHANDLER Lying to the south of Tempe, this city has been booming for more

than a decade. New restaurants have opened, and the old downtown has

had a bit of a face-lift. This area is of interest primarily to east Valley resi-

dents, but there is an attractive older resort right in downtown Chandler.

4

GLENDALE Located northwest of downtown Phoenix, Glendale has numerous

historic buildings in its downtown, and with its dozens of antiques and col-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

lectibles stores, it has become the antiques capital of the Valley. The city is

home to the Bead Museum, an interesting little specialty museum. This is

also where you’ll find the Arizona Cardinals’ University of Phoenix Stadium

and the Jobing.com Arena, home of the Phoenix Coyotes hockey team.

CAREFREE & CAVE CREEK About 20 miles north of downtown Scottsdale,

these two communities represent the Old West and the New West. Care-

free is a planned community and home to the prestigious Boulders Resort

and el Pedregal shopping center. Neighboring Cave Creek, on the other

hand, plays up its Western heritage with contemporary cow-town architec-

ture and a preponderance of saloons, steakhouses, and shops selling West-

ern crafts and other gifts.

Getting Ar

GETTING AROUND

By Car

ound

Phoenix and the surrounding cities that together make up the Valley of the Sun

sprawl across more than 400 square miles, so if you want to make the best use of

your time, it’s essential to have a car. Outside downtown Phoenix, there’s almost

always plenty of free parking wherever you go (although finding a parking space

can be time-consuming in Old Town Scottsdale and at some of the more popular

malls and shopping plazas). If you want to feel like a local, opt for the ubiquitous valet parking (just be sure to keep plenty of small bills on hand for tipping the

parking attendants).

For the past few years Phoenix has had some of the highest car-rental rates

in the country, and with taxes and surcharges at Sky Harbor Airport adding up to

50% or more, be prepared for sticker shock when you see what a 1-week car

rental is going to run you. Expect to pay anywhere from $225 to $250 per week

($350–$375 with taxes) for a compact car in the high season. See chapter 12 for

general tips on car rentals.

All major rental-car companies have desks at Sky Harbor Airport’s Rental

Car Center, which is separate from the airport terminals and is served by a free

71

shuttle bus. Be sure to leave time in your schedule to get from the Rental Car

Center to the correct terminal for your flight. There are also plenty of other car-

rental offices in Phoenix and Scottsdale and you can sometimes save a bit on your

rental by picking up your car someplace other than the airport. Rental-car com-

panies at the airport include the following: Advantage ( 800/777-5500 or

602/252-2811; www.advantage.com), Alamo ( 877/222-9075 or 602/244-

0897; www.alamo.com), Avis ( 800/331-1212 or 602/261-5900; www.avis.

com), Budget ( 800/527-0700 or 602/261-5950; www.budget.com), Dollar

( 800/800-3665 or 866/434-2226; www.dollar.com), Enterprise ( 800/261-

7331 or 602/225-0588; www.enterprise.com), Fox ( 800/225-4369; www.

foxrentacar.com), Hertz ( 800/654-3131 or 602/267-8822; www.hertz.com),

National ( 877/222-9058 or 602/275-4771; www.nationalcar.com), Payless

( 800/729-5377 or 602/681-9589; www.paylesscar.com), and Thrifty ( 800/

847-4389 or 877/283-0898; www.thrifty.com).

For a bit more style while you cruise from resort to golf course to nightclub,

Rent-a-Vette, 1215 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale ( 888/308-5995 or 480/

4 941-3001; www.exoticcarrentalsphoenix.com), charges $299 to $399 per day for a

Corvette. It also rents Porsches, Mustangs, BMWs, and a variety of Mercedes.

By Public Transportation

ound

Unfortunately, Valley Metro ( 602/253-5000; www.valleymetro.org), the Phoenix public bus system, is not very useful to tourists. It’s primarily meant to

be used by commuters. However, if you decide you want to take the bus, pick up

a copy of the Transit Book at one of the tourist information desks in the airport Getting Ar (where it’s sometimes available), at Central Station, 302 N. Central Ave. (at Van Buren Street), or at any Fry’s supermarket. Local bus fare is $1.75; express bus

fare is $2.75. Also available are 1-, 3-, and 7-day passes, and a monthly pass.

Of slightly more value to visitors is the free Downtown Area Shuttle

(DASH), which provides bus service within the downtown area Monday through

Friday from 6:30am to 6:30pm. These buses serve regular stops every 12 min-

utes. In Tempe, buses provide a similar service on several different loops around

the Arizona State University area, including Mill Avenue and Sun Devil Stadium.

For information on both DASH and the Tempe buses, call 602/253-5000.

In Scottsdale, the Scottsdale Trolley ( 480/421-1004; www.scottsdale trolley.com) shuttle buses run between Scottsdale Fashion Square, the Fifth Avenue shops, the Main Street Arts district, and the Old Town district. These buses

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

run daily from 11am to 6pm (until 9pm on Thurs), with service every 15 minutes.

Between late December and the end of March, free shuttles also run up and

down Scottsdale Road. These trolleys operate daily from 10am to 10pm, with

service every 30 minutes, and will take you to Scottsdale Fashion Square. From

there you can take the Scottsdale Trolley to other shopping districts. A couple of

other trolley routes provide access to other destinations in the area.

The area’s most useful public-transit alternative is Valley Metro’s METRO

light-rail system, which runs along Central Avenue, through downtown Phoe-

nix, and east to Tempe and Mesa. Attractions along or close to the line include

the Heard Museum, Phoenix Art Museum, Historic Heritage Square, Phoenix

Museum of History, Arizona Science Center, Pueblo Grande Museum and

Archaeological Park, Desert Botanical Garden, Phoenix Zoo, Hall of Flame Fire-

fighting Museum, Tempe’s Mill Avenue shopping district, and the Arizona State

University Art Museum. There is also a free airport shuttle that connects the

72

The light rail is a good way to explore downtown Phoenix.

44th Street/Washington Street stop to the airport. For more information, contact

4

Valley Metro ( 602/253-5000; www.valleymetro.org).

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

By Taxi

Because distances in Phoenix are so great, the price of an ordinary taxi ride can be quite high. However, if you don’t have your own wheels or had too much to drink

and the bus isn’t running because it’s late at night or the weekend, you won’t have

any choice but to call a cab. AAA Yellow Cab ( 602/252-5252; www.aaa yellowaz.com) charges $2.50 for the first mile and $2 per mile thereafter. Discount Cab ( 602/200-2000; www.discountcab.com) charges $2.95 for the first mile and $2.10 per mile after that. This latter company has a large fleet of hybrid vehicles, so if you want to go green when you call a cab, contact Discount.

Fast Facts: Phoenix

PHOENIX

ATMs/Banks In Ari-

are generally open Monday

( 602/839-2000; www.

zona, you’ll find ATMs at

through Friday from 9am

bannerhealth.com), is one

banks in even the smallest

to 5pm (some also Sat

of the largest hospitals in

towns. You can also usually

9am–noon).

the Valley.

find them at gas station

Dentist Call the Dental

Emergencies For

minimarts, although these

Referral Service ( 866/

police, fire, or medical

machines usually charge a

639-7444; www.dental

emergencies, phone

slightly higher fee than

referral.com).

911.

banks. You can sometimes

avoid a fee by searching out Doctor Call the Banner

Internet Access If your

a small community bank, a

Health Physician &

hotel doesn’t provide Inter-

savings and loan, or a credit Resource Line ( 602/230-

net access, your next best

union ATM. To avoid fees,

2273; www.bannerhealth.

bet, if you aren’t traveling

you can also go into a gro-

com) for doctor referrals.

with your own laptop, is to

cery store, make a pur-

The Banner Good Samari-

visit one of the FedEx

chase, and ask for cash back tan Medical Center, 1111 E. Offices in the area. There on your debit card. Banks

McDowell Rd., Phoenix

are locations at the

73

Sheraton hotel in downtown Scottsdale Post Office, 1776 Pharmacies Contact

Phoenix at 340 N. Third St.

N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/

Walgreens ( 800/925-

( 602/258-0266); off the

949-1448), is open Monday

4733; www.walgreens.com)

Camelback Corridor at 3801 through Friday from 8am to

for the Walgreens pharmacy

N. Central Ave. ( 602/241- 5pm and Saturday from

that’s nearest you; some are

9440); and in Scottsdale just 9am to 4pm. For other

open 24 hours a day.

off Camelback Road at 4513 locations, contact the

Safety Don’t leave valu-

N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/946- United States Postal Service ables in view in your car, 0500).

( 800/275-8777; www.

especially when parking in

Mail & Postage At

usps.com).

downtown Phoenix or at

press time, domestic post-

Newspapers &

trailheads. Put anything of

age rates were 32¢ for a

Magazines The

Arizona

value in the trunk or under

postcard and 45¢ for a

Republic (www.azcentral.

the seat. Take extra precau-

letter. For international mail, com) is Phoenix’s daily

tions after dark in the south-

a first-class letter of up to 1

newspaper. New Times is a

central Phoenix area and

4 ounce costs $1.05¢ (85¢ to free weekly journal with

downtown. Violent acts of

Canada or Mexico); a first-

comprehensive listings of

road rage have been all too

class postcard costs the

cultural events, films, clubs,

common in Phoenix in the

same as a letter. The Phoe-

and concert schedules. The

past, so it’s a good idea to

nix Downtown Post Office,

best place to find New

be polite when driving.

522 N. Central Ave. ( 602/ Times is at corner newspa-

Aggressive drivers should

253-9648), is open Monday

per boxes in downtown

be given plenty of room.

through Friday from 9am to

Phoenix, Scottsdale, or

5pm. In Scottsdale, the

Tempe.

Exploring Phoenix EXPLORING PHOENIX

The Phoenix metropolitan area is vast and sprawling, so it makes sense to plan

your explorations around neighborhoods, districts, and regions. If you’re inter-

ested in museums, head to downtown Phoenix and the Central Avenue corridor,

where you’ll find the greatest concentration of museums, including the highly

acclaimed Heard Museum and the impressive Phoenix Art Museum. If, on the

other hand, you’re more interested in art, architecture, and shopping, you’ll want

to spend a day or two exploring Scottsdale and North Scottsdale. Papago Park,

wedged between Phoenix, Scottsdale, and Tempe, is worth a day on its own.

Here in or near the park, you’ll find the Desert Botanic Garden, the Phoenix Zoo,

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

the Arizona Historical Society Museum at Papago Park, and the Hall of

Flame Firefighting Museum. If you’re a hiker, head to almost any edge of the Val-

ley of the Sun and you’ll find a large desert preserve laced with hiking and moun-

tain-biking trails.

Scottsdale

Cosanti ARCHITECTURE This complex of cast-concrete structures served

as a prototype and learning project for architect Paolo Soleri’s much grander

Arcosanti project, currently under construction north of Phoenix. It’s here at

Cosanti that Soleri’s famous bells are cast, and most weekday mornings you can

see the foundry in action. Visit between 10am and noon Monday through Friday

for the best chance of seeing bronze bells being poured.

74

4

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Paolo Soleri’s famous bronze bells are cast at

The Penske Racing Museum is tucked into a

Cosanti.

local car dealership.

6433 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Paradise Valley. www.arcosanti.org. 480/948-6145. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Closed major holidays. Drive 1 mile west of Scottsdale Rd. on Doubletree Ranch Rd.

Penske Racing Museum MUSEUM Tucked inside the car dealer-

ships here is the coolest little museum in Scottsdale. Inside this museum, you’ll

find the personal collection of Roger Penske, which includes more than a dozen

immaculately maintained race cars, many of them Indianapolis 500 winners.

7125 E. Chauncey Lane, Scottsdale. www.penskeracingmuseum.com. 480/538-4444. Free

Exploring Phoenix

admission. Mon–Sat 8am–4pm; Sun noon–5pm. Just west of N. Scottsdale Rd.

Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art

ART MUSEUM Scott-

sdale may be obsessed with art featuring lonesome cowboys and solemn Indians,

but this boldly designed museum makes it clear that patrons of contemporary art

are also welcome here. Cutting-edge art, from the abstract to the absurd, fills the

galleries, with exhibits rotating

every few months. Don’t miss

James Turrell’s “skyspace” Knight

Love Story

Rise, which is accessed from a

patio off the museum shop and

Take a walk around the Scottsdale Mall, a

can be visited for free. By the way,

refuge of green lawns and shade trees in

the museum shop is full of beauti-

downtown Scottsdale, and you just might fall

ful items that will fit in your in love—make that on Love. Robert Indiana’s suitcase.

famous pop-art Love image, the one with the

skewed letter O—yes, the one that became

7374 E. 2nd St., Scottsdale. www.smoca.

a postage stamp—has been installed as a

org.

480/874-4666. Admission $7

12-foot-tall sculpture on the lawn outside the

adults, $5 students, free for children 15

Scottsdale Center for the Arts.

and under; free for all Thurs and Fri–Sat

75

Bell Rd.

.

Bell Rd.

Fra

Arizona Biltmore 11

n

d

k L

Turf Paradise

12

W

.

R

51

r

lo

i

13

g

y

h

d Phoenix, Scottsdale &

Arizona Capitol Museum 5

e

.

t B

v

ay

e Racetrack

k

lv

14

d.

Greenway Rd.

v

.t

e

Greenway Rd.

Arizona Doll & Toy Museum 7

t.

the Valley of the Sun

reew

Arizona Historical Society

h A

d.

.

t

h At

d

Attractions

5

Thunderbird Rd.

9

Museum 22

3

1

h St

Cave Cre

Thunderbird Rd.

.

Sweetwater Ave.

7

d

d.

Sweetwater Ave.

anyon F

Arizona Museum for Youth 27

15

Cactus Rd.

North Mountain

Cactus Rd.

Arizona Museum of Natural

.

e R

PEORIA

A

Preserve

t

l

History 28

r

a

ayden R

iz

Black C

o

32nd S

d

H

Arizona Science Center 7

Peoria Rd.

na

Shea Blvd.

h S

s

t

tt

Shea Blvd.

6

o

1

5

Invergordon R

c

Arizona State University Art

Canal

S

Flagstaff

m R

Museum 26

Dunlap Ave.

ut

Dreamy Draw

ARIZONA

a Doubletree Ranch Rd.

T

Phoenix

Burton Barr Library 4

To Wickenburg

Park

GLENDALE

16

Tucson

Castles & Coasters 1

Northern Ave.

ay Phoenix Mountains

101

Preserve

PARADISE VALLEY

Center for Meteorite Studies 26

17

.

Piestewa Peak

Ceramics Research Center

Glendale Ave.

e

Freew

v

Indian Bend Rd.

G

Park

and Gallery 26

ra

Maryland Ave.

17

n

a

Lincoln Dr.

d A

Children’s Museum of Phoenix 8

10

v Bethany Home Rd.

.

11

McDonald Dr.

e

e

.

v

.

Cosanti 16

d

Missouri Ave.

t.

Piestew

t.

Camelback Mountain/

CrackerJax Family Fun & Sports

Camelback Rd.

h At

l A

Echo Canyon Recreation Area

Freeway

Park 14

9

a

60

1

rt

.

a R

.

n

t.

t

18

Camelback Rd. To Payson

Desert Botanical Garden 20

e

e

32nd S

t.

m

t.

i

Pima

Indian School Rd.

v

C

.

24th S

P

t

. Indian School Rd.

G

Hall of Flame Firefighting

ra

Canal

87

Osborn Rd.

n

19

Rd

d

h S

Osborn Rd.

.

.

Museum 23

h A

t

t

.

d

d

d.

wy.

Thomas Rd.

t

6

.

7

1

t.

t.

R

Thomas Rd.

Heard Museum 2

e

2

56th S

v

DOWNTOWN

h S

A

t

64th S

51

SCOTTSDALE

Historic Heritage Square 7

3

4

Dobson

Beeline H

McDowell Rd.

ve. PHOENIX

40th S

4

48th S

52nd S

Huhugam Heritage Center 30

4

R

h S

r

e R

McDowell Rd.

e

10

10

202

d

Papago

t

l

e

Papago Freeway

20

8

l

a

i

M

d

ayden R

McCormick-Stillman Railroad

To

Park

6

10

o

s

M

H

Los Angeles

t

Van Buren St.

u

t

Park 17

n

21

o Van Buren St.

McKellips Rd.

h

5

t

7

8

Washington St.

t

c

24

a

Mesa Contemporary Arts 29

5

22

S

i

17

6

n 23

202

.

.

3

r

143

River

MESA

Musical Instrument Museum 12

e

Freeway

v

85 Buckeye Rd.

27th A

Salt

Ma

202

.

ricopa Freeway

Mystery Castle 9

Sky Harbor

b D

r.

r

m

25

u

D

D

h A

International Airport

.

.

l

t

a

r

y

Penske Racing Museum 13

9

k p

University Dr.

5

.

.

o x

27

e

t

h E

26

y C

Phoenix Art Museum 3

28

v

S

o

rt

Main St.

River

A

Apache Blvd.

H

n 29

y

Phoenix Zoo 21

Broadway Rd.

10

TEMPE

Salt

.

u

el

.

e

Broadway Rd.

o

p

e

t.

t.

v

C

esa

at

Pueblo Grande Museum and

v

ve.

Ave.

t D s

M

S

101

e

l Ali

Archaeological Park 24

Southern Ave.

ir

M

Southern Ave.

d A

P

Scottsdale Center for the Arts 19

r

h

Superstition Freeway

3

t

60

4

7

60

l

24th S

32nd S

Scottsdale Museum of

Baseline Rd.

a

Baseline Rd.

.

.

rt

d

Contemporary Art 19

e

n

v

e

19th A

7th

C

10

y

Shemer Art Center and

a

Dobbins Rd.

Guadalupe

w

Rd.

Museum 18

9

.

ee

.

r

ay

r

d

l R

.

.

d.

R

o

d

o

e

Taliesin West 15

F

h

v

Rd.

Elliot Rd.

e

c

Elliot Rd.

ci

Tempe Center for the Arts 25

rP

t A

87

PHOENIX SOUTH

Tempe Town Lake 25

s

k D

Estrel a Dr. 1

MOUNTAIN PARK

copa Freewi

Warner Rd. c

.

Wells Fargo History Museum 6

5

r

o

d

n

a S

t

a

o

a A

n R

ni

101

s

ml

n

e

0

M

Wrigley Mansion 10

3 mi

Rural R

l

e R

b

A

o

e

C

c

o

zi

u

30

c

To Tucson

ir

D

rA

Qc

Ray Rd.

Cooper

0

3 km

M

P

M

76

Bell Rd.

.

Bell Rd.

Fra

Arizona Biltmore 11

n

d

k L

Turf Paradise

12

W

.

R

51

r

lo

i

13

g

y

h

d Phoenix, Scottsdale &

Arizona Capitol Museum 5

e

.

t B

v

ay

e Racetrack

k

lv

14

d.

Greenway Rd.

v

.t

e

Greenway Rd.

Arizona Doll & Toy Museum 7

t.

the Valley of the Sun

reew

Arizona Historical Society

h A

d.

.

t

h At

d

Attractions

5

Thunderbird Rd.

9

Museum 22

3

1

h St

Cave Cre

Thunderbird Rd.

.

Sweetwater Ave.

7

d

d.

Sweetwater Ave.

anyon F

Arizona Museum for Youth 27

15

Cactus Rd.

North Mountain

Cactus Rd.

Arizona Museum of Natural

.

e R

PEORIA

A

Preserve

t

l

History 28

r

a

ayden R

iz

Black C

o

32nd S

d

H

Arizona Science Center 7

Peoria Rd.

na

Shea Blvd.

h S

s

t

tt

Shea Blvd.

6

o

1

5

Invergordon R

c

Arizona State University Art

Canal

S

Flagstaff

m R

Museum 26

Dunlap Ave.

ut

Dreamy Draw

ARIZONA

a Doubletree Ranch Rd.

T

Phoenix

Burton Barr Library 4

To Wickenburg

Park

GLENDALE

16

Tucson

Castles & Coasters 1

Northern Ave.

ay Phoenix Mountains

101

Preserve

PARADISE VALLEY

Center for Meteorite Studies 26

17

.

Piestewa Peak

Ceramics Research Center

Glendale Ave.

e

Freew

v

Indian Bend Rd.

G

Park

and Gallery 26

ra

Maryland Ave.

17

n

a

Lincoln Dr.

d A

Children’s Museum of Phoenix 8

10

v Bethany Home Rd.

.

11

McDonald Dr.

e

e

.

v

.

Cosanti 16

d

Missouri Ave.

t.

Piestew

t.

Camelback Mountain/

CrackerJax Family Fun & Sports

Camelback Rd.

h At

l A

Echo Canyon Recreation Area

Freeway

Park 14

9

a

60

1

rt

.

a R

.

n

t.

t

18

Camelback Rd. To Payson

Desert Botanical Garden 20

e

e

32nd S

t.

m

t.

i

Pima

Indian School Rd.

v

C

.

24th S

P

t

. Indian School Rd.

G

Hall of Flame Firefighting

ra

Canal

87

Osborn Rd.

n

19

Rd

d

h S

Osborn Rd.

.

.

Museum 23

h A

t

t

.

d

d

d.

wy.

Thomas Rd.

t

6

.

7

1

t.

t.

R

Thomas Rd.

Heard Museum 2

e

2

56th S

v

DOWNTOWN

h S

A

t

64th S

51

SCOTTSDALE

Historic Heritage Square 7

3

4

Dobson

Beeline H

McDowell Rd.

ve. PHOENIX

40th S

4

48th S

52nd S

Huhugam Heritage Center 30

4

R

h S

r

e R

McDowell Rd.

e

10

10

202

d

Papago

t

l

e

Papago Freeway

20

8

l

a

i

M

d

ayden R

McCormick-Stillman Railroad

To

Park

6

10

o

s

M

H

Los Angeles

t

Van Buren St.

u

t

Park 17

n

21

o Van Buren St.

McKellips Rd.

h

5

t

7

8

Washington St.

t

c

24

a

Mesa Contemporary Arts 29

5

22

S

i

17

6

n 23

202

.

.

3

r

143

River

MESA

Musical Instrument Museum 12

e

Freeway

v

85 Buckeye Rd.

27th A

Salt

Ma

202

.

ricopa Freeway

Mystery Castle 9

Sky Harbor

b D

r.

r

m

25

u

D

D

h A

International Airport

.

.

l

t

a

r

y

Penske Racing Museum 13

9

k p

University Dr.

5

.

.

o x

27

e

t

h E

26

y C

Phoenix Art Museum 3

28

v

S

o

rt

Main St.

River

A

Apache Blvd.

H

n 29

y

Phoenix Zoo 21

Broadway Rd.

10

TEMPE

Salt

.

u

el

.

e

Broadway Rd.

o

p

e

t.

t.

v

C

esa

at

Pueblo Grande Museum and

v

ve.

Ave.

t D s

M

S

101

e

l Ali

Archaeological Park 24

Southern Ave.

ir

M

Southern Ave.

d A

P

Scottsdale Center for the Arts 19

r

h

Superstition Freeway

3

t

60

4

7

60

l

24th S

32nd S

Scottsdale Museum of

Baseline Rd.

a

Baseline Rd.

.

.

rt

d

Contemporary Art 19

e

n

v

e

19th A

7th

C

10

y

Shemer Art Center and

a

Dobbins Rd.

Guadalupe

w

Rd.

Museum 18

9

.

ee

.

r

ay

r

d

l R

.

.

d.

R

o

d

o

e

Taliesin West 15

F

h

v

Rd.

Elliot Rd.

e

c

Elliot Rd.

ci

Tempe Center for the Arts 25

rP

t A

87

PHOENIX SOUTH

Tempe Town Lake 25

s

k D

Estrel a Dr. 1

MOUNTAIN PARK

copa Freewi

Warner Rd. c

.

Wells Fargo History Museum 6

5

r

o

d

n

a S

t

a

o

a A

n R

ni

101

s

ml

n

e

0

M

Wrigley Mansion 10

3 mi

Rural R

l

e R

b

A

o

e

C

c

o

zi

u

30

c

To Tucson

ir

D

rA

Qc

Ray Rd.

Cooper

0

3 km

M

P

M

77

Native Trails in Scottsdale

If you happen to be shopping in Old

cross-cultural journey and is a great way

Town Scottsdale and hear the sound of

to learn a bit about a few Native cul-

drumming coming from the Scottsdale

tures. The free programs, called Native

Civic Center Mall, be sure to follow the

Trails, are held late January through early

sound to its source. On a stage in front

April on most Thursdays and Saturdays

of the Scottsdale Center for the Arts,

between noon and 1:30pm. For more

you’ll find members of several Native

information, contact Scottsdale Conven-

American tribes performing traditional

tion & Visitors Bureau ( 800/782-

songs and dances. The show is a

1117; www.scottsdalecvb.com).

5–10pm. Tues–Wed noon–5pm; Thurs noon–8pm; Fri–Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–5pm. Closed

major holidays. Bus: 41, 50, or 72. Also accessible via Scottsdale Trolley shuttle bus.

4 North Scottsdale, Carefree & Cave Creek

Cave Creek, founded as a gold-mining camp in the 1870s, is the last of the Valley towns that still has some semblance of Wild West character, but this has

rapidly faded as Scottsdale’s population center has moved ever northward. Still,

you’ll find several steakhouses and saloons, as well as shops selling Western and

Native American crafts and antiques.

Cave Creek Museum MUSEUM If you want to learn more about the his-

tory of Cave Creek, stop by this little museum. There are exhibits on the archae-

Exploring Phoenix ology of the area, as well as displays on pioneers and miners.

Skyline Drive and Basin Road, Cave Creek. www.cavecreekmuseum.org. 480/488-2764.

Oct–May Wed–Thurs, Sat–Sun 1–4:30pm, Fri 10am–4:30pm. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors, $2

students 12 and older, free for children 11 and under. Closed June–Sept.

Frontier Town ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX Right in the center of

Cave Creek, you’ll find the town’s main family attraction. It’s a sort of mock cow

town with lots of little shops, a restaurant, and a saloon.

6245 E. Cave Creek Rd. www.frontiertownaz.com. 480/488-3317. Admission free. Hours vary.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art.

78

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West.

Sears-Kay Ruins RUINS Although these ruins 15 miles northeast of Cave

Creek have never been restored and are, in fact, in ruins, they are close enough to

north Scottsdale to be worth searching out. They’re also just far enough away to feel like a real discovery. It’s an easy 1-mile round-trip hike to this hilltop Hohokam 4

pueblo ruin, and along the way, interpretive plaques explain aspects of Hohokam

culture. The pueblo, which dates to between 1050 and 1500, consisted of 40 rooms

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

in four compounds. To find the ruins, head northeast from Carefree on Cave Creek

Road, which becomes first Seven Springs Road and then Forest Service Road 24.

Contact Tonto National Forest, Cave Creek Ranger District, 40202 N. Cave Creek Rd., Scottsdale.

www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto/home. 480/595-3300. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

Taliesin West

ARCHITECTURE Frank Lloyd Wright loved the Ari-

zona desert and, in 1937, built Taliesin West as a winter camp that served as his

home, office, and school. Today, the buildings of Taliesin West are the headquar-

ters of the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation and School of Architecture.

Tours include a general introduction to Wright and his theories of architec-

ture, and also explain the campus buildings. Wright believed in using local mate-

rials in his designs, and this is much in evidence at Taliesin West. With its

Exploring Phoenix

glass-walled buildings and patio areas, Taliesin West also showcases Wright’s

ability to integrate indoor and outdoor spaces.

Carefree Living

Carefree, a planned community estab-

Carefree’s downtown, you’ll find one of

lished in the 1950s and popular with retir-

the world’s largest sundials. The dial is 90

ees, is much more subdued than its

feet across, and the gnomon (the part

neighbor Cave Creek, which effects a sort

that casts the shadow) is 35 feet tall. In

of Wild West character. Ho Hum Road

the middle of the dial are a pool of water

and Easy Street are just two local street

and a fountain. Also downtown is a sort of

names that reflect the sedate nature of

reproduction Spanish-village shopping

Carefree, which is home to the luxurious

area, and just south of town, adjacent to

Boulders Resort. This resort boasts a

the Boulders resort, is the upscale el

spectacular setting, a 33,000-square-foot

Pedregal shopping center, with interest-

spa, and a couple of excellent restaurants.

ing boutiques, galleries, and a few

On Easy Street, in what passes for

restaurants.

79

For a brief introduction to Wright and his theories of architecture, take a basic

introductory tour (listed below) or an Insights Tour ($26–$32 adults, $14–$17 chil-

dren 4–12), which will take you inside Wright’s personal living area. There are also behind-the-scenes tours ($60), guided desert walks ($32), apprentice shelter tours

($40), and night tours ($35 adults, $30 seniors and students). Many of these tours

are available only at certain times of year. Call ahead for schedule information.

12621 Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd. (at Cactus/114th St.), Scottsdale. www.franklloydwright.org. 855/

860-2700 or 480/627-5340. Basic tours $18–$24 adults, $18–$20 seniors and students, $7–$10 children 4–12. Daily 9am–4pm. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and occasional special events. From Scottsdale Rd., go east on Shea Blvd. to 114th St., then north 1 mile to the entrance road.

WALKING TOUR: OLD TOWN SCOTTSDALE

START:

Scottsdale Historical Museum.

FINISH:

Scottsdale Waterfront.

4

TIME:

2 hours (not including shopping and visiting the museums).

BEST TIMES:

Thursdays, when the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art

waives its usual admission charge and art galleries stay open late.

WORST TIMES: Mondays, when galleries and the Scottsdale Museum of Con

temporary Art are closed, and summer, when it’s just too hot to

do any walking.

From tacky souvenir shops to art galleries dealing in $100,000 paintings, down-

town Scottsdale has a lot going on. With half a dozen distinct shopping districts

own Scottsdale

around the area, it’s easy to miss many of the highlights. This walking tour leads

you past the best downtown Scottsdale has to offer.

Old T

After finding a parking space in the large public garage at the corner of Brown Avenue and First Street, walk to the northwest corner of the garage where, at 7333 E. Scottsdale Mall, you will find the:

1 Scottsdale Historical Museum

Housed in a little red schoolhouse that was built in 1909, this museum will

help you understand that despite all the modern buildings, Scottsdale really

does have a past. Here at the museum, you can pick up a map to the various

historic buildings in the neighborhood. On this walking tour, you’ll pass

most of the buildings on the museum’s map.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

After acquainting yourself with Scottsdale’s history, turn right as you leave the museum and take a stroll around the:

2 Scottsdale Civic Center Mall

Oddly enough, in such a shopping-obsessed city, this mall is a park rather than

a shopping center. (Conversely, the nearby Biltmore Fashion Park is a shopping

mall, not a park—go figure.) Amid the mall’s green lawns and flowering shade

trees, you’ll find nearly a dozen sculptures. You might also catch some sort of

event going on here. In the spring there are Native American dancers and

musicians a couple of days a week, and live music on Sunday afternoons.

Near the main entrance to the Scottsdale Center for the Arts, which faces the mall,

you’ll find the city’s most beloved sculpture:

80

0

1000 ft

26

Walking Tour:

Indian Plz.

0

200 m

25

Old Town Scottsdale

24

Scottsdale

Waterfront

Scottsdale Convention

Flagstaff

& Visitors Bureau

ARIZONA

South Bridge

Stetson Dr.

Phoenix Scottsdale

D

6th. Ave.

Tucson

rinkwate

23

r B

d. 4th. Ave.

lvd

ve.

.

ay

5th. A

arshal W

3rd. Ave.

t.

M 22

Arizona Canal

lvd. 3rd. Ave.

21

Scottsdale R

75th. S

Indian School Rd.

ater B

20

t.

1st. Ave.

oldw

1st. Ave.

ve.

Scottsdale Cultural

G

ay

n A

& Civic Center

Main St.

1

City Hall

68th. S

Main St.

9

Brow 5

t.

10

6

SCOTTSDALE

t.

19

13

12

16 1st. St.

11

2

MALL

1st. St.

arshall W

18

17

M

15 14

8

7

3

69th. S

OLD

4

75th. S

2nd. St.

2nd. St.

2nd. St.

o

Scottsdale

TOWN

gr

Artists' School

a .e

lvd.

s Fl v

l A

e

1 Scottsdale Historical Museum

12 Bishop Gallery of Art

W

SCOTTSDALE

2 Scottsdale Civic Center Mall

& Antiques

4th. St.

STADIUM

ater B

3 Robert Indiana’s Love

13 Faust Gallery

(San Francisco

14 Overland Gallery of Fine Art

Giants)

4 Scottsdale Museum of

6th. St.

rinkw

Contemporary Art

15 Arizona West Galleries

D

5 Winfield Scott

Osborn Rd.

16 Jack Knife

Osborn Rd.

6 Bischoff’s at the Park

17 Old Territorial Indian Arts

7 Old Adobe Mission

18 River Trading Post

8 Hidden Histories

19 Knox Artifacts Gallery

23 Bronze Horse F

t.

ountain

9 Rusty Spur Saloon

20 Horseshoe Falls

24 Passing the Legacy

10 Gilbert Ortega Gallery & Museum 21 Lisa Sette Gallery

25 Soleri Bridge and Plaza

11 Cowboy holding a lasso sign

22 Bentley Gallery

26 The Doors

75th. S

3 Robert Indiana’s Love

With its canted letter O, this image, which consists of the word “love”

spelled out in large block letters, will likely be quite familiar. The iconic

image is nearly as symbolic of the 1960s as the peace sign, and was once

used on a postage stamp.

Primed with a bit of pop art, head around the side of the arts center to the:

4 Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art

The galleries of this museum are used for a wide variety of often-challenging

contemporary art exhibitions. Even if you aren’t interested in contemporary

art, you might want to check out Knight Rise, a room-size art installation off 81

the gift shop. There’s never a charge to visit

this unusual space that uses light and the

sky as canvas.

Head back out of the mall by way of the walkway

in front of the little red schoolhouse, and you will

see a statue of:

5 Winfield Scott

If you haven’t already guessed, Scott was

the founder of this city, and it is for him

that Scottsdale is named. This statue,

which shows Scott with his wife and his

mule, Maude, is on the site of Scott’s origi-

nal homestead.

Robert Indiana’s Love.

To the left as you exit the mall, at 3925 N. Brown Ave., you’ll find:

4 6 Bischoff’s at the Park

Don’t confuse this shop full of Native American jewelry and other South-

western arts and crafts with the affiliated Bischoff’s Shades of the West

across the street. The latter is a low-end souvenir shop, while the former is

full of higher-quality merchandise and is fascinating to explore.

Turn left when you come out of Bischoff’s and walk a block and a half south to the:

own Scottsdale

7 Old Adobe Mission

This small mission church was built in 1933 by Hispanic and Yaqui Indian

Old T

families and has been undergoing restoration in recent years. Inside, you’ll

usually find someone ready to answer questions about the building.

Across the street, you’ll see the colorful sculptures of Elizabeth Conner’s:

8 Hidden Histories

These sculptures are colorful, oversize renditions of familiar objects, includ-

ing a cowboy hat and an old tire. The sculptures are adjacent to the public

parking lot that on Saturday mornings, from November through May, is the

site of the Old Town Farmer’s Market. If the market is going on, be sure to

wander through and try some free samples.

Now walk back north on Brown Avenue to Main Street and turn left. On this block,

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

you’ll find lots of souvenir shops and stores selling Native American jewelry. In the middle of the block, you’ll find a longtime favorite Scottsdale watering hole.

Rusty Spur Saloon

For many years, Scottsdale billed itself as the West’s most Western town, and

at the Rusty Spur Saloon, 7245 E. Main St., the West lives on with country

bands playing throughout the day and couples dancing and drinking the night

(and day) away. If you’re a cowboy or cowgirl at heart, you owe it to yourself to

stop in for a beer.

82

Continue on down Main Street to the inter-

section with busy Scottsdale Road, and

across Main Street, at 3925 N. Scottsdale

Rd., you’ll see the:

10 Gilbert Ortega

Gallery & Museum

This shop has one of the best selec-

tions of Native American jewelry in

Scottsdale and also has museum-qual-

ity displays of Native artifacts around

the store.

In front of this store stands a metal cutout of a:

11 Cowboy Holding a

Lasso

This unofficial welcome-to-Scottsdale 4

sign has been around for more than 50

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

A large cowboy sign greets visitors to

years and is another of the city’s top

Scottsdale.

photo-op spots.

From here, cross Scottsdale Road and continue along East Main Street. You will now

leave the souvenir shops behind. This end of the street is lined on both sides with art galleries and antiques stores. At 7164 E. Main St., you’ll find one of my favorite

antiques shops, the cluttered and cramped:

12 Bishop Gallery of Art & Antiques

This place is divided into two rooms, one full of rare and unusual antiques

from around the world and another filled with original works of art. I could

spend hours in here.

Old T

A few doors down, at 7100 E. Main, you’ll find:

13 Faust Gallery

own Scottsdale

Stop in here to look for old Native American baskets and ceramics, as well

as Navajo rugs.

Across the street, you’ll find several more interesting shops and galleries, including, at 7155 E. Main St.:

14 Overland Gallery of Fine Art

At this gallery, you can see the angular Southwestern landscapes of Ed Mell

and the more traditional landscapes of contemporary American realist Gary

Ernest Smith.

A few doors down, at 7149 Main St., there’s:

15 Arizona West Galleries

Antique cowboy gear and the trappings of the American West are the spe-

cialty of this antiques shop.

83

4

Ed Mell’s Jack Knife.

At the intersection of East Main Street and Marshall Way, you’ll see, in the middle of the roundabout, Ed Mell’s sculpture:

16 Jack Knife

own Scottsdale

This was Mell’s first large-scale sculpture, and the horse shows the same

Old T

sort of angularity that you will have seen in his landscape paintings at the

Overland Gallery.

Continue through the intersection, and, at 7077 E. Main St., you’ll come to:

17 Old Territorial Indian Arts

This is the oldest Indian arts-and-crafts shop on Main Street, and features

a good selection of Hopi kachina dolls, Zuni fetishes, and Navajo silver

jewelry.

A few doors away, at 7033 E. Main St., there’s also:

18 River Trading Post

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Here you’ll find ancient Southwestern pottery, Navajo rugs, and a good

selection of reasonably priced Native American crafts.

Now walk back to the roundabout and cross the street to 7056 E. Main St. and:

19 Knox Artifacts Gallery

You won’t believe your eyes when you step through the doors of this amazing

shop. Museum-quality pre-Columbian artifacts, as well as antiquities from

ancient Greece, Rome, and Egypt, fill the shelves and cases.

Continue north on Marshall Way, and at the intersection with Indian School Road,

you’ll find the unusual:

84

20 Horseshoe Falls

The columns of Michael Maglich’s sculpture are actually stacks of horse-

shoes arranged in the shape of a horseshoe. Mist periodically rises from the

ground beneath the statute.

Now cross Indian School Road to the Marshall Way contemporary-arts district where

you’ll find a dozen galleries scattered along the 2 blocks between Indian School Road and Fifth Avenue. Galleries not to miss include, at 4142 N. Marshall Way, on the west side of the street:

21 Lisa Sette Gallery

It’s difficult to categorize the eclectic shows mounted at this gallery, but

whatever is on the walls, it will likely be intriguing.

Across the street, at 4161 N. Marshall Way, there is:

22 Bentley Gallery

This is the most cutting-edge major 4

gallery in the Valley. It also has an out-

post in a large warehouse south of

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

downtown Phoenix.

In the middle of the roundabout at the inter-

section of North Marshall Way and East Fifth

Avenue, you’ll see Bob Parks’s:

23 Bronze Horse

Fountain

The four life-size bronze horse statues

thundering away from this fountain

Bentley Gallery presents contemporary art in

an area dominated by Southwestern galleries.

have long been a symbol of the Fifth

Avenue shopping district.

Old T

From the roundabout, walk a block up Stetson Drive to the pedestrian bridge that connects the SouthBridge area with the Scottsdale Waterfront. At the north end of the

own Scottsdale

bridge, you’ll come to yet another horse sculpture, Herb Mignery’s:

24 Passing the Legacy

This classic Western bronze statue shows two Pony Express riders passing

the mail at a full gallop. One sculpture is meant to represent cowboys of the

past, while the other represents cowboys of the present.

From this sculpture, head 2 blocks along the landscaped walkway on the north bank of the Arizona Canal. Across the canal, you can see the shops and restaurants of the Mix, while on the north bank, you’ll be skirting residential condominiums and the shops of the Scottsdale Waterfront shopping center. Just before the canal reaches Scottsdale

Road, you’ll find the:

25 Soleri Bridge and Plaza

Arizona-based architect Paolo Soleri, well known in the state for his bronze

wind bells and his Arcosanti architectural experiment in the desert north of

85

Phoenix, has been designing bridges for decades, but this stainless-steel

pedestrian bridge was the first to ever be constructed. Dedicated in late

2010, the bridge is anchored by a 64-foot pylon that has massive bronze

wind bells suspended from it. Each day at solar noon, sunlight shines

through the bridge pylon onto a red stripe on the bridge deck. Note: Solar noon is different from noon on your watch.

Walk back across the bridge and continue a few steps to the corner of Scottsdale and Camelback roads where you’ll find Donald Lipski’s unusual sculpture:

26 The Doors

From the outside, this sculpture looks like three huge colonial doors leaning

against each other, but step inside the doors, and you’ll find yourself inside

a giant mirrored kaleidoscope.

From here, you can continue shopping your way through the Scotts-

dale Waterfront, the Mix shops on the SouthBridge side of the Arizona

4

Canal, or across Camelback Road in the huge Scottsdale Fashion Square

shopping mall.

The Camelback Corridor & Biltmore District

Arizona Biltmore ARCHITECTURE This resort hotel, although not designed

by Frank Lloyd Wright, shows the famed architect’s hand in its distinctive cast-

cement blocks. It also displays sculptures, furniture, and stained glass designed by Wright. The best way to soak up the ambience of this exclusive resort (if you aren’t staying here) is over dinner, a cocktail, or tea. To learn more about the building,

Exploring Phoenix however, take a tour, given Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 10am.

2400 E. Missouri Ave. 602/955-6600. Tours $10 (free for resort guests).

Shemer Art Center and Museum

ART MUSEUM This art center

may be small, but it mounts some of

the more interesting little shows in the

Valley. Exhibits change regularly and

showcase Arizona artists. You might

catch an exhibit of ceramic art, jewelry,

or photography. The art center, which

is housed in a 1920s Santa Fe mission–

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

style home in the Arcadia neighbor-

hood, also offers a variety of art classes.

It’s easy to miss as you’re speeding

along Camelback Road, so keep your

eyes peeled.

5005 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix. www.shemer

artcenter.org. 602/262-4727. Free admis-

sion. Tues–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–3pm; Thurs

10am–3pm and 6:30–8:30pm. Closed major

holidays. Bus: 50.

Wrigley Mansion HISTORIC

HOME Situated on a hilltop adja-

cent to the Arizona Biltmore, this Wrigley Mansion.

86

elegant mansion was built by chewing-gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr.,

between 1929 and 1931 as a present for his wife, Ada. Designed with Italianate

styling, the mansion has so many levels and red-tile roofs that it looks like an

entire village. The mansion is now a National Historic Landmark, with the inte-

rior restored to its original elegance. Tours of the mansion are offered 5 days a

week and offer a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the Wrigleys. Tour reserva-

tions are required.

2501 E. Telawa Trail. www.wrigleymansionclub.com. 602/955-4079. Tours $15. Wed–Sat at 10am, 1pm, and 3pm; Sun at 3pm (call for summer hours).

Central & Downtown Phoenix

Arizona Capitol Museum MUSEUM In the years before Arizona became

a state, the territorial capital moved from Prescott to Tucson, then back to Prescott, before finally settling in Phoenix. In

1898, a stately territorial capitol build-

ing was erected (with a copper roof to

remind the local citizenry of the impor-

4

tance of that metal in the Arizona econ-

omy). Atop this copper roof was placed

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

the statue Winged Victory, which still

graces the old capitol building today.

This building no longer serves as the

actual state capitol, but has been

restored to the way it appeared in 1912,

the year Arizona became a state. Among

the rooms on view are the senate and

house chambers, as well as the gover-

nor’s office. Excellent exhibits provide

interesting perspectives on early Arizona

events and lifestyles.

Exploring Phoenix

1700 W. Washington St. www.lib.az.us/

museum. 602/926-3620. Free admission.

The Winged Victory statue atop the Arizona

Mon–Fri 9am–4pm. Closed state holidays.

Capitol Museum.

Bus: 1 or DASH downtown shuttle.

Arizona Science Center MUSEUM So, the kids weren’t impressed

with the botanical garden or the Native American artifacts at the Heard Museum.

Bring ’em here. They can spend the afternoon pushing buttons, turning knobs, and

interacting with all kinds of cool science exhibits. In the end, they might even learn something in spite of all the fun they have. The science center also includes a planetarium and an IMAX theater, both of which carry additional charges.

600 E. Washington St. www.azscience.org. 602/716-2000. Admission $14 adults, $12 seniors, $11 children 3–17. Planetarium and film combination tickets also available. Daily 10am–5pm.

Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Bus: 0 or DASH downtown shuttle. METRO light rail: Central Station.

Burton Barr Library ARCHITECTURE This library is among the most dar-

ing pieces of public architecture in the city, and no fan of futuristic art or science fiction should miss it. The five-story cube is partially clad in enough ribbed copper sheeting to produce roughly 17.5 million pennies. The building’s design makes use

87

of the desert’s plentiful sunshine to provide light for reading, but also incorporates computer-controlled louvers and shade sails to reduce heat and glare.

1221 N. Central Ave. www.phoenixpubliclibrary.org. 602/262-4636. Free admission. Mon, Fri, Sat 9am–5pm; Tues–Thurs 11am–7pm; Sun 1–5pm. Bus: 0. METRO light rail: McDowell Rd./

Central Ave.

Heard Museum

MUSEUM The Heard Museum is one of the

nation’s finest museums dealing exclusively with Native American cultures and is

an ideal introduction to the indigenous

peoples of Arizona. From pre-Colum-

bian to contemporary, if it’s art created

by Native Americans, you’ll find it

here. If you’re interested in the Native

cultures of Arizona, this should be your

very first stop in the state. The museum

is an invaluable introduction to the

4 state’s many tribes. The Home:

Native People in the Southwest

exhibit examines the culture of each of

the major tribes of the region and is the

heart and soul of the museum.

Included in this exhibit are more than

500 kachina dolls. In another gallery,

you’ll find fascinating exhibits of con- The Guild Indian Fair and Market at Heard

temporary Native American art. Museum.

Exploring Phoenix Guided tours are offered daily. The

annual Guild Indian Fair and Market, held on the first weekend in March,

includes traditional dances along with arts and crafts. The museum’s cafe is a

good place for lunch.

The museum also operates the Heard Museum North Scottsdale,

32633 N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/488-9817), near Carefree. This gallery fea-

tures changing exhibits and is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to

5pm, and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors,

and $2 for students and children 6 to 12.

2301 N. Central Ave., Phoenix. www.heard.org. 602/252-8848. Admission $15 adults, $14

seniors, $7.50 students and children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Closed Christmas. Bus: O. METRO light rail: Encanto Blvd./Central Ave.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Historic Heritage Square/Heritage and Science Park HISTORIC SITE

The city of Phoenix was founded in 1870, but today few of the city’s early homes

remain. If you want a glimpse of how Phoenix once looked, stroll around this col-

lection of historic homes on the original town site. Although most of the houses

are modest buildings from the early 20th century, there is one impressive Victo-

rian home that dates to 1895. Today, the buildings house museums, restaurants,

and gift shops. The Eastlake Victorian Rosson House ( 602/262-5070;

www.rossonhousemuseum.org), furnished with period antiques, is open for

tours. The Stevens House is home to the Arizona Doll & Toy Museum (see later

in this chapter). In the Teeter House, you’ll find Nobuo at Teeter House (a Japa-

nese restaurant; see “Where to Eat,” later). The old Baird Machine Shop con-

tains Pizzeria Bianco (see “Where to Eat,” later), and the Thomas House is home

to Bar Bianco (see “Entertainment & Nightlife,” later in this chapter).

88

115 N. 6th St., at Monroe. http://phoenix.gov/parks/parks/heritagepk.html. 602/262-5029.

Rosson House tours $7.50 adults, $6 seniors and students, $4 children 6–12. Wed–Sat 10am–

4pm; Sun noon–4pm. Hours vary for other buildings; call for information. Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, July 4th, mid-Aug to early Sept, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Bus: Red 0, 1, or DASH

downtown shuttle. METRO light rail: Central Station.

Phoenix Art Museum

ART MUSEUM This is one of the largest art

museums in the Southwest, and within its labyrinth of halls and galleries is a respectable collection that spans the major artis-

tic movements from the Renaissance to

the present. Exhibits cover decorative

arts, historical fashions, Spanish colonial

furnishings and religious art, and, of

course, works by members of the Cow-

boy Artists of America. The collection of

modern and contemporary art is particu-

larly good, with works by Diego Rivera,

Frida Kahlo, Pablo Picasso, Alexander 4

Calder, Henry Moore, Georgia O’Keeffe,

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Henri Rousseau, and Auguste Rodin.

The popular Thorne Miniature Rooms

consists of tiny rooms on a scale of 1 inch

to 1 foot. Because this museum is so

large, it frequently mounts traveling

Phoenix Art Museum’s Thorne Miniature

blockbuster exhibits. The cafe here is a

Collection.

good spot for lunch.

1625 N. Central Ave. (at McDowell Rd.), Phoenix. www.phxart.org. 602/257-1222. Admission $10 adults, $8 seniors and students, $4 children 6–17, free for children 5 and under; free for all on Wed 3–9pm and first Fri of each month 6–10pm. Wed 10am–9pm; Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm

(also 6–10pm on 1st Fri of each month); Sun noon–5pm. Closed New Year’s day, Thanksgiving, Christmas. Bus: O. METRO light rail: McDowell Rd./Central Ave.

Exploring Phoenix

Wells Fargo History Museum MUSEUM Yes, this museum is small,

and, yes, it’s run by the Wells Fargo Bank, but the collection of artifacts here goes a long way toward conjuring up the Wild West so familiar from Hollywood movies. Not only is there an original Wells Fargo stagecoach on display, but there are

also gold nuggets to ogle, old photos from the real Wild West, and plenty of artifacts and memorabilia from the days of stagecoach travel. There are also original

paintings by N. C. Wyeth and bronze sculptures by Frederic Remington and

Charles Russell.

100 W. Washington St. www.wellsfargohistory.com. 602/378-1852. Free admission. Mon–

Fri 9am–5pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 0 or DASH downtown shuttle. METRO light rail: Central Station.

North Phoenix

Challenger Space Center MUSEUM If one of your kids dreams of

being a rocket scientist, then a visit to this science center in the northwest Valley is in order. Through space-themed movies, tours, planetarium shows, simulated

space missions, and various classes and workshops, visitors can learn about travel

in space.

89

21170 N. 83rd Ave., Peoria. www.azchallenger.org. 623/322-2001. Admission $8 adults, $7

seniors, $5 children 4–18, free for children 3 and under. Daily 10am–4pm. Closed major holidays.

Take the Loop 101 hwy. to the 75th Ave. exit, go north to Deer Valley Rd., and turn left (west), and then turn left onto 83rd Ave.

Deer Valley Rock Art Center HISTORIC SITE Located in the Hedge-

peth Hills northwest of downtown Phoenix, the Deer Valley Rock Art Center pre-

serves a large concentration of Native American petroglyphs, some of which date

back 5,000 years. Although these petroglyphs may not at first seem as impressive

as those at more famous sites, the sheer numbers make this a fascinating spot. The

drawings, which range from simple spirals to much more complex renderings of

herds of deer, are on volcanic boulders along a quarter-mile trail. An interpretive

center provides background information on this site and on rock art in general.

3711 W. Deer Valley Rd., Phoenix. http://dvrac.asu.edu. 623/582-8007. Admission $7 adults, $4

seniors and students, $3 children 6–12. Oct–Apr Tues–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; May–Sept Tues–Sun 8am–2pm. Closed major holidays. Take I-17 north to Deer Valley Rd. westbound or the 4 Loop 101 hwy. to the 27th Ave. or 35th Ave. exit, go north to Deer Valley Rd., and turn left (west).

Musical Instrument Museum

MUSEUM I could easily spend the

better part of a day at this fascinating museum, and I don’t even play an instrument.

Vast halls broken down by continent showcase an astonishing variety of musical

instruments from all over the world. Not only will you see countless unfamiliar

instruments, but you’ll get to watch videos of them being played in their countries

of origin. Think world anthropology as seen through strings and reeds and drums

and horns and you’ll have an idea of what this museum is all about. Among the

many displays are the first Steinway piano ever made (built in 1836 in the Steinweg

Exploring Phoenix family’s kitchen in Seesen, Germany) and the tools brought to America in 1833 by guitar-maker C. F. Martin. One room that is especially popular with children has

instruments you can play yourself. A performance hall stages frequent events, and

musicians often give impromptu concerts in the museum itself.

4725 E. Mayo Blvd., Phoenix. www.themim.org. 480/478-6000. $15 adults, $13 seniors, $10

youths 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Wed and Sat 9am–5pm; Thurs–Fri 9am–9pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Just south of U.S. 101 at the corner of E.

Mayo and N. Tatum boulevards.

Tempe, South Phoenix & the Airport Area

Arizona Historical Society Museum at Papago Park MUSEUM This

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

museum, at the headquarters of the Arizona Historical Society, focuses its well-

designed exhibits on the history of central Arizona. Temporary exhibits on the

lives and works of the people who helped shape this region are always the high-

lights of a visit. An interesting permanent exhibit features life-size statues of

everyday people from Arizona’s past (a Mexican miner, a Chinese laborer, and so

on). Quotes relate their individual stories, while props reveal what items they

might have traveled with during their days in the desert.

1300 N. College Ave. (just off Curry Rd.), Tempe. www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org. 480/929-9499. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors and students 12–18, free for children 11 and under; free on 1st Sat of each month. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun noon–4pm. Closed major holidays. From Scottsdale Rd. north of Tempe, go west on E. Curry Rd. and north on N. College Ave.

Arizona State University Art Museum at Nelson Fine Arts Center

ART MUSEUM This museum is memorable for its innovative architecture

90

Hunt’s Tomb: The Great Pyramid of Phoenix

If you’re driving through Papago Park,

Hunt, who was the first, second, third,

perhaps on your way to the Desert

sixth, seventh, eighth, and tenth gover-

Botanical Garden, and see a shimmering

nor of Arizona. No other governor in any

white pyramid on a hilltop, you might at

state has served as many terms in office

first imagine that you’re having a heat-

as Hunt, who was born in 1859 and died

induced hallucination. Not so. The pyra-

in 1934. The tomb is accessible from a

mid is the tomb of Gov. George W. P.

parking area near the zoo.

and excellent temporary exhibitions. With its colorful stucco facade and pyrami-

dal shape, the stark, angular building conjures up images of sunsets on desert

mountains. The entrance is down a flight of stairs that leads to a cool under-

ground garden area. Inside are galleries for crafts, prints, contemporary art, and

Latin American art, along with outdoor sculpture courts and a gift shop. The col-

lection of American art includes works by Georgia O’Keeffe, Edward Hopper, 4

and John James Audubon. It’s definitely a must for both art and architecture fans.

Across the street is the affiliated Ceramics Research Center, a gallery that PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

showcases the university’s extensive collection of fine-art ceramics. You just won’t believe the amazing creativity on display.

10th St. and Mill Ave., Tempe. http://asuartmuseum.asu.edu. 480/965-2787. Free admission. Tues 11am–8pm; Wed–Sat 11am–5pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 66. METRO light rail: Mill Ave./Third St.

Desert Botanical Garden

PARK/GARDEN In Papago Park

adjacent to the Phoenix Zoo, this

botanic garden displays more than

20,000 desert plants from around the

world, and its Plants and People of the

Exploring Phoenix

Sonoran Desert Trail is the state’s best

introduction to Southwestern ethno-

botany (human use of plants). Along

this trail you can make your own yucca-

fiber brush and practice grinding corn

as Native Americans once did. On the

Desert Wildflower Trail, you’ll find col-

orful wildflowers throughout much of

the year. Each spring, there’s usually a

butterfly pavilion filled with live butter-

flies. If you come late in the day, you

can stay until after dark and see night-

blooming flowers and dramatically lit

The butterfly pavilion at Desert Botanical

Garden.

cacti. A cafe on the grounds makes a

great lunch spot. During the cooler

months, concerts are held in the garden. In December, during Las Noches de las

Luminarias, the gardens are lit at night by luminarias (candles inside small bags).

In Papago Park, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy., Phoenix. www.dbg.org. 480/941-1225 or 480/941-1217. Admission $18 adults, $15 seniors, $10 students 13–18, $8 children 3–12 (free for all on 2nd 91

Tues of each month from 1–8pm). Oct–Apr

daily 8am–8pm; May–Sept daily 7am–8pm.

Closed July 4th, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Bus: 1 or 3. METRO light rail: Priest Dr./

Washington St.

Hall of Flame Firefighting

Museum MUSEUM This is

the nation’s largest firefighting museum

and houses a fascinating collection of

vintage firetrucks. The displays date

from a 1725 English hand pumper to

several classic engines from the 20th

century. All are beautifully restored

and, mostly, fire-engine red. In all,

more than 90 vehicles are on display.

The Phoenix Zoo’s African savanna gives

4 At Papago Park, 6101 E. Van Buren St. www. visitors the chance to feed giraffes.

hallofflame.org. 602/275-3473. Admission

$6 adults, $5 seniors, $4 students 6–17, $1.50 children 3–5, free for children 2 and under. Mon–

Sat 9am–5pm; Sun noon–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Bus: 1 or 3. METRO light rail: Priest Dr./Washington St.

Mystery Castle ARCHITECTURE Built for a daughter who longed

for a castle more permanent than those built in the sand at the beach, Mystery

Castle is a wondrous work of folk-art architecture. Boyce Luther Gulley, who had

come to Arizona in hopes of curing his tuberculosis, constructed the castle dur-

Exploring Phoenix ing the 1930s and early 1940s using stones from the property. The resulting 18-room fantasy has 13 fireplaces, parapets, and many other unusual touches.

800 E. Mineral Rd. 602/268-1581. Admission $10 adults, $5 ages 5–12. Thurs–Sun 11am–

4pm. Closed June–Sept. Take 7th St. south to Mineral Rd. (2 miles south of Baseline Rd.).

Phoenix Zoo ZOO Forget about polar bears and other cold-climate crea-

tures; this zoo focuses its attention primarily on animals that come from climates

similar to that of the Phoenix area. Most impressive of the displays are the African savanna and the baboon colony. The Southwestern exhibits are also of interest, as

are the Komodo dragons and the exhibit featuring monkeys from Central and

South America. All animals are kept in naturalistic enclosures, and what with all

the palm trees and tropical vegetation, the zoo sometimes manages to make you

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

forget you’re in the desert. Be sure to ride the camel while you’re here. Zoolights, an after-hours holiday-light display, is held late November to early January.

At Papago Park, 455 N. Galvin Pkwy. www.phoenixzoo.org. 602/273-1341. Admission $18

adults, $9 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Sept to early Nov and mid-Jan to May daily 9am–5pm; early Nov to mid-Jan daily 9am–4pm; June–Aug daily 7am–2pm. Closed

Christmas. Bus: 1 or 3. METRO light rail: Priest Dr./Washington St.

Pueblo Grande Museum and Archaeological Park MUSEUM/RUINS

Located near Sky Harbor Airport and downtown Phoenix, the Pueblo Grande

Museum and Archaeological Park houses the ruins of an ancient Hohokam vil-

lage that was one of several villages along the Salt River between a.d. 300 and

1400. Sometime around 1450, this and other villages were mysteriously aban-

doned. Some speculate that drought and a buildup of salts from irrigation water

92

Out-of-This-World Rocks

On October 9, 1992, a meteorite

for Meteorite Studies, Bateman Physical

slammed into a car in Peekskill, New

Sciences Center, C wing, Room 139, 851

York. It was a nightmare for the car’s

S. Palm Walk at University Drive ( 480/

owner, but a dream come true for the

965-6511; meteorites.asu.edu), on the

tabloids. Here was a reminder of just how

ASU campus. The center, which is just a

dangerous out-of-this-world rocks can be.

single small room, is open Monday

You can see a piece of the Peekskill mete-

through Friday from 9:30am to 4:30pm,

orite and dozens of other otherworldly

and admission is free.

rocks at Arizona State University’s Center

reduced the fertility of the soil and forced the people to seek better growing con-

ditions elsewhere. The small museum here displays many of the artifacts that

have been dug up at the site. Although these exhibits are actually more interest-

ing than the ruins themselves, some furnished replicas of Hohokam-style houses

4

give a good idea of how the Hohokam lived. The museum sponsors interesting

workshops, demonstrations, and tours (including petroglyph hikes). The Pueblo

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Grande Indian Market, held in mid-December, is one of the largest of its kind in the state and features more than 200 Native American artisans.

4619 E. Washington St. (btw. 44th and 48th sts.), Phoenix. www.pueblogrande.com. 877/706-4408 or 602/495-0900. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors, $3 children 6–17, free children 5 and under. Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 9am–4:45pm, Sun 1–4:45pm; May–Sept Tues–Sat 9am–4:45pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 1. METRO light rail: 44th St./Washington St.

Tempe Center for the Arts ART MUSEUM This big, modern art center

on the shores of Tempe Town Lake is primarily a performing arts center, but it

also has a small gallery that mounts interesting exhibitions throughout the year.

Be sure to check the calendar.

700 W. Rio Salado Pkwy., Tempe. www.tempe.gov/tca. 480/350-2829. Free admission. Tues–

Exploring Phoenix

Fri 10am–6pm; Sat 11am–6pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 48. METRO light rail: Mill Ave./3rd St.

Tempe Town Lake PARK/GARDEN Created in 1999 by damming the Salt

River with inflatable dams, this is one of the most unusual parks in the Phoenix

metro area. With parks and bike paths lining both the north and south shores, the

2-mile-long lake is a good place to stretch your legs. The best lake access is at

Tempe Town Beach, at the foot of the Mill Avenue Bridge. This lake is the focus

of a large development that also includes the Tempe Center for the Arts.

620 N. Mill Ave., Tempe. www.tempe.gov/lake. 480/350-8625. Free admission. Daily dawn–

dusk. Bus: 48. METRO light rail: Mill Ave./3rd St.

Mesa & the East Valley

Arizona Museum of Natural History

MUSEUM This is one of

the best museums in the Valley, and its wide variety of exhibits appeals to people

with a range of interests. For the kids, there are animated dinosaurs on an indoor

“cliff” with a roaring waterfall. Of course, there are also plenty of dinosaur skel-

etons. Also of interest are an exhibit on Mesoamerican cultures, a display on

Arizona mammoth kill sites, some old jail cells, and a walk-through mine mock-

up with exhibits on the Lost Dutchman Mine. There’s also a mock-up of a

Hohokam village.

93

53 N. MacDonald St. (at 1st St.), Mesa. www.azmnh.org. 480/644-2230. Admission $10

adults, $9 seniors, $8 students, $6 children 3–12. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 11am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 30.

Arizona Wing of the Commemo-

rative Air Force MUSEUM Fans

of World War II bombers won’t want to

miss this small air museum in Mesa.

The museum is home to Sentimental

Journey, a B-17G bomber that was built

in 1944 and is still flying today. The

museum also has a B-25, a couple of

Russian MiGs, and an F4 Phantom.

Flights in Sentimental Journey and a

few other aircraft can be arranged

here, with tour prices ranging from $95

4 to $425 per person.

Falcon Field, 2017 N. Greenfield Rd., Mesa. Kids love the dinosaurs at the Arizona

www.arizonawingcaf.com. 480/924-1940. Museum of Natural History.

Oct–May admission $10 adults, $9 seniors, $3

children 5–12, free for children 4 and under; June–Sept admission $7 adults, $3 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Oct–May daily 10am–4pm; June–Sept Wed–Sun 9am–3pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Bus: 136.

Huhugam Heritage Center MUSEUM This architectural gem adjacent

to the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort is operated by the Pima and Maricopa

Exploring Phoenix tribes and offers a glimpse into the cultural heritage of the two tribes. Although the center has only a few small exhibits, it is well worth a visit for its architecture and ethnobotanical garden. The center complex is built within a huge berm that

was designed to resemble a giant pot buried in the ground. Exhibits include an

outstanding display of Pima and Mari-

copa baskets dating back to the 1920s.

4759 N. Maricopa Rd., Chandler. 520/796-

3500. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors and

students, $2 children 6–12; free for children 5

and under. Wed–Fri 10am–4pm. Take exit 164

(Queen Creek Rd.) off I-10 and continue 1

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

mile west.

Mesa Contemporary Arts ART

MUSEUM Although this contempo-

rary arts museum is not very large, it is

located in the Mesa Arts Center, which

is one of the Valley’s architectural

gems. You’ll find the art museum down

in a sunken courtyard beneath the arts

center’s sail-like canopies. Exhibits

change regularly in the five small gal-

leries, and there are occasional sculp-

ture installations in the courtyard.

The Mesa Contemporary Arts museum.

94

1 E. Main St., Mesa. www.mesaartscenter.com. 480/644-6560. Admission free. Tues–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–5pm; Thurs 10am–8pm; Sun noon–5pm. Closed major holidays and early Aug to early Sept. Bus: 30.

Rawhide at Wild Horse Pass AMUSEUMENT PARK Sure, Rawhide is

a tourist trap, but this fake cow town is so much fun and such a quintessentially

Phoenician experience that no family should get out of town without first mosey-

ing down its dusty streets. Those streets are lined with lots of tourist shops and

plenty of places for refreshments, including a steakhouse. Attractions and activi-

ties include stunt shows, gunfights, a petting zoo, a mechanical bull, and stage-

coach, burro, and train rides. March through May and October and November,

there are also Saturday-night sundown cookouts ($48 adults, $15 children) with

hayrides, live music, and storytellers.

5700 W. North Loop Rd., Chandler. www.rawhide.com. 480/502-5600. Free admission (individual attractions $5; all-day pass $15). Hours vary with the seasons; call for details. Take I-10 east to exit 162, drive west on Wild Horse Pass Blvd., and turn left on 48th St.

West Valley

4

Wildlife World Zoo & Aquarium ZOO While the animals at the Phoe-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

nix Zoo are interesting enough, the animals here are way cool; just ask your kids.

Best of all, you can get really close to some and even feed a few. There are infor-

mative animal shows, including parrot feedings, throughout the day. While the

desert may seem like an odd place for a public aquarium, the aquarium here is a

real kid-pleaser, with sharks, stingrays, piranhas, and an albino alligator. Com-

bine a visit to this zoo with time at the nearby Challenger Space Center or Deer

Valley Rock Art Center, and you have a fun, full day for the family.

16501 W. Northern Ave., Litchfield Park. www.wildlifeworld.com. 623/935-9453. Zoo and Aquarium admission $28 adults, $14 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Aquarium only (available evenings) admission $17 adults, $9 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Zoo daily 9am–6pm. Aquarium daily 9am–9pm. Take I-10 west to Ariz. 303 (exit 124) and drive north 6 miles to Northern Ave. eastbound or take Ariz. 101 west to Northern Ave. (exit 101) and conti-Exploring Phoenix

nue west for 8 miles.

Outlying Attractions

EAST OF PHOENIX

Boyce Thompson Arboretum

PARK/GARDEN Located 60 miles

east of Phoenix and 3 miles west of Superior, Boyce Thompson Arboretum is

dedicated to researching and propagating desert plants. This was the nation’s first

botanical garden established in the desert and is an excellent introduction to the

flora of arid regions around the world. Set in two small, rugged canyons, the arbo-

retum is home to impressive cactus gardens that are framed by sunbaked desert

cliffs. From stands of cactus, you can duck into a forest of eucalyptus trees that

grow along a stream. As you hike the nature trails of this 320-acre arboretum,

watch for the bizarre boojum trees. There are regularly scheduled guided tours of

the garden; call for the schedule. Each year in March, the arboretum stages a

Welcome Back Buzzards Day, a celebration of the annual return of a flock of tur-

key vultures that roosts each night on the cliffs surrounding the gardens.

37615 U.S. 60, Superior. http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu. 520/689-2811. Admission $9

adults, $4.50 children 5–12. Sept–Apr daily 8am–5pm; May–Aug daily 6am–3pm.

95

Goldfield Ghost Town HIS-

TORIC SITE Over on the east side

of the Valley, just 4 miles northeast of

Apache Junction, you’ll find a recon-

structed 1890s gold-mining town.

Although it’s a bit of a tourist trap—

with gift shops, an ice-cream parlor,

and the like—it’s also home to Gold-

field’s Historic Museum ( 480/

677-6463), which has interesting

exhibits on the history of the area. Of

particular note is the exhibit on the

Lost Dutchman gold mine, perhaps

the most famous mine in the country,

despite the fact that no one knows Boyce Thompson Arboretum.

where it is. Goldfield Mine Tours pro-

4 vides guided tours of the gold mine beneath the town. The Superstition Narrow

Gauge Railroad circles the town, and the Goldfield Livery Stables ( 480/

982-0133) offers horseback rides. If you’re here at lunchtime, you can get a

meal at the steakhouse/saloon.

4650 N. Mammoth Mine Rd. (4 miles northeast of Apache Junction on Ariz. 88). www.goldfield ghosttown.com. 480/983-0333. Museum admission $1; train rides $8 adults, $7 seniors, $5

children 5–12; mine tours $8 adults, $7 seniors, $5 children 6–12; horseback rides $35 for 1 hr., $60 for 2 hr. Town daily 10am–5pm; museum, tour, and ride hours vary. Closed Christmas.

Exploring Phoenix Queen Creek Olive Mill FARM This is Arizona’s only working olive farm and mill, and if you love olive oil, then you should definitely make the long drive out here to taste some local oils and learn all about the process of pressing olive oil. There are guide tours of the mill (Mon–Fri 10:30am–2:30pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am–3:30pm), an

Italian restaurant, a gift shop, and, on Saturday mornings, a farmers market.

25062 S. Meridian Rd., Queen Creek. http://queencreekolivemill.com. 480/888-9290. Admission free; tours $5. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 8am–5pm. Take U.S. 60 east 23 miles to exit 195

(Ironwood Rd.); drive south 11 miles to Combs Rd. and turn right; continue 1 mile and turn right on Meridian Rd.

SOUTH OF PHOENIX

Casa Grande Ruins National Monument

RUINS Located outside

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

the town of Coolidge about 45 miles south of Phoenix, this national monument

preserves one of the most unusual Indian ruins in the state. In Spanish, casa grande means “big house,” and that’s exactly what you’ll find here. In this instance, the big house is the ruin of an earth-walled structure built 650 years ago by the Hohokam

people. It is speculated that the building was once some sort of astronomical obser-

vatory, but this is not known for certain. Whatever the original purpose of the building was, today it provides a glimpse of a style of ancient architecture rarely seen.

Instead of using adobe bricks or stones, the people who built this structure used

layers of hard-packed soil, which have survived the ravages of the weather and still stand in silent testament to the Hohokam’s long-ago architectural endeavors. The

Hohokam began farming the valleys of the Gila and Salt rivers about 1,500 years

ago, and eventually built an extensive network of irrigation canals for watering their fields. By the middle of the 15th century, the Hohokam had abandoned both their

96

canals and their villages and disap-

peared without a trace.

1100 W. Ruins Dr., Coolidge (Ariz. 87, 1 mile

north of Coolidge). www.nps.gov/cagr. 520/

723-3172. Admission $5. Daily 9am–5pm. Clo-

sed Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Picacho Peak State Park

NATURAL ATTRACTION Located

60 miles south of Phoenix just off I-10

at exit 219, Picacho Peak is a wizard’s

cap of rock that rises 1,500 feet above

the desert and is a visual landmark for

miles around. Hiking trails lead around

Picacho Peak State Park is one of the best

the lower slopes of the peak and up to

places to see spring wildflowers.

the summit; these trails are especially

popular in spring, when the wildflow-

ers bloom (the park is known as one of the best places in Arizona to see spring 4

wildflowers). In addition to its natural beauty, Picacho Peak was the site of the

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

only Civil War battle to take place in the state. Each March, Civil War reenact-

ments are staged here. Campsites in the park cost $15 to $25.

Exit 219 off I-10. www.azstateparks.com. 520/466-3183. Admission $7 per car. Park daily 5am–9pm; visitor center daily 8am–5pm.

Rooster Cogburn Ostrich Ranch FARM While you may need true grit

to ride an ostrich, even a child can feed one of these giant birds (that is, as long as the ostrich is on the other side of a fence). This sprawling roadside ranch has

not only a huge flock of ostriches that you can feed, but also an aviary full of lori-keets. On weekends and holidays, tours of the ranch in a monster truck are also

offered. You’ll find the ostrich ranch at exit 219 off I-10, the same exit as Picacho Peak State Park.

Exploring Phoenix

17843 E. Peak Lane, Picacho. www.roostercogburn.com. 520/466-3658. Admission $5, free for children 5 and under; monster truck tours $10, $5 for children 5 and under. Late Nov to Apr daily 9am–5:30pm; May to late Nov Fri–Mon 9am–5:30pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas.

Organized Tours

The Valley of the Sun is a sprawling, often congested place, and if you’re unfamil-

iar with the area, you may be surprised at how great the distances between attrac-

tions are. If map reading and urban navigation are not your strong points, consider

taking a guided tour. If you want a different sort of perspective on the area, con-

sider a jeep tour, hot-air balloon ride, or a flight in a glider.

BUS TOURS

If you’d like to get a quick overview of Phoenix and Scottsdale, there are a couple

of local tour companies I recommend. Open Road Tours ( 855/563-8830

or 602/997-6474; www.openroadtours.com) does a half-day tour of the Valley’s

highlights, with an hour for shopping in Old Town Scottsdale. These tours cost

$59 for adults and $39 for children 11 and under. This company also offers day-

long tours to Tucson, Sedona, and the Grand Canyon. Detours ( 866/438-

6877; www.detoursaz.com) also offers half-day tours of the Valley, and these 97

Top Gun

Ever wanted to be a fighter pilot? Well,

aerobatic flights, including mock dog-

at Fighter Combat International

fights. Best of all, on some flights, you

( 866/359-4273; www.fightercombat.

get to learn how to do loops, rolls, spins,

com) you can find out if you’ve got the

and other aerobatic moves. Flights start

right stuff. This company, which operates

at $485; for a mock air-combat mission,

out of the Phoenix-Mesa Gateway Air-

you’ll have to shell out $795.

port in Mesa, offers a variety of exciting

tours, which cost $80 for adults and $45 for children 12 and under, include

lunch at a local restaurant.

GLIDER RIDES

The thermals that form above the mountains in the Phoenix area make this an ideal

4 place for flying sailplanes (gliders). On the south side of the Valley at the Estrella Sailport, Arizona Soaring, 22548 N. Sailport Way, Maricopa ( 520/568-2318; www.azsoaring.com), offers sailplane rides, with a basic 20-minute flight going for $105. An aerobatic flight with loops, rolls, and inverted flying costs $160.

To reach the airstrip, take I-10 E to exit 164 (Queen Creek Rd.), go west on Queen

Creek Road (which becomes Maricopa Rd. [Ariz. 347]) for 15 miles, turn right on

Ariz. 238, and continue 61⁄2 miles. On the north side of the Valley, there’s Turf Soaring School, 8700 W. Carefree Hwy., Peoria ( 602/439-3621; www.turf soaring.com), which charges $109 for a basic flight and $175 to $205 for a deluxe

Exploring Phoenix aerobatic flight. Reservations are a good idea at either place.

HOT-AIR BALLOON RIDES

The still morning air of the Valley of the Sun is perfect for hot-air ballooning, and because of the stiff competition, prices are among the lowest in the country.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Get a bird’s-eye view of the Valley from a hot-air balloon.

98

Over the Rainbow ( 602/225-5666; www.letsgoballooning.com) charges

only $165 for a 1- to 11⁄2-hour flight, while Adventures Out West/Unicorn

Balloon Company ( 800/755-0935 or 480/991-3666; www.adventuresout

west.com) charges $185 to $235 (or $205–$255 with transportation from your

Scottsdale hotel) for a 1-hour flight. Check websites for discounted rates.

JEEP TOURS

After spending a few days in Scottsdale, you’ll likely start wondering where the

desert is. Well, it’s out there, and the easiest way to explore it is to book a jeep tour.

Most hotels and resorts work with particular companies, so start by asking your

concierge. Alternatively, you can contact one of the following companies. Most will

pick you up at your hotel, take you off through the desert, and maybe let you pan

for gold or shoot a six-gun. Depending on how many people are in your party and

where you’re staying, expect to pay between $65 and $100 per person for a 3-hour

tour. Companies include Arizona Desert Mountain Jeep Tours ( 800/567-

3619; www.azdesertmountain.com) and Southwest Desert Adventures ( 877/

962-6620 or 480/962-6620; www.arizonabound.com).

4

If you want to really impress your friends when you get home, you’ll need to try

something a little different. How about a Hummer tour? Contact Desert Storm

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Hummer Tours ( 480/922-0020; www.dshummer.com), which charges $100

for a 4-hour tour ($75 for children 16 and under). This company also offers night

tours ($125 for adults and $100 for children) that let you spot wildlife with night-

vision equipment. Alternatively, there’s Stellar Adventures ( 877/878-3552 or 602/402-0584; www.stellaradventures.com), which charges $140 for a basic 4-hour

tour ($100 for children 10 and under) and $170 for its advanced tour.

If rumbling through the desert on a guided Hummer tour still isn’t rugged

enough for you, then you might be a candidate for driving yourself through the

desert. A couple of companies in the area do tours in Tomcars, which, like the

Hummer, were originally developed for military uses. Tomcars are little open-

sided buggies that let you get covered with desert dust as you four-wheel past

cactus and creosote bushes. If this sounds like your kind of outing, contact Des-

Exploring Phoenix

ert Wolf Tours ( 877/613-9653; www.desertwolftours.com), which charges $145 for a half-day tour ($87 for children under 12), or Green Zebra Adventures ( 866/703-2622 or 480/214-4435; www.gogreenzebra.com), which

charges $129 for a half-day tour ($59 for children under 12). Full-day, sunset,

and night tours are also offered by Desert Wolf Tours.

SCENIC FLIGHTS

If you’re short on time but want to at least see the Grand Canyon, book an air

tour in a small plane. Westwind Scenic Air Tours, 732 W. Deer Valley Rd.,

Phoenix ( 888/869-0866 or 480/991-5557; www.westwindairservice.com),

charges $349 to $599 (per person) for its Grand Canyon tours, $259 to $350 (per

person) for its Sedona tours, and $599 (per person) for its Monument Valley tour.

This company flies out of the Deer Valley Airport in the northwest part of the

Valley. Flights last 3 to 7 hours for Grand Canyon tours, 11⁄2 to 5 hours for Sedona tours, and 8 hours for Monument Valley tours.

WALKING TOURS

Want to get a taste for the Scottsdale dining scene? Take a food tour with Arizona Food Tours ( 800/979-3370 or 212/209-3370; www.arizonafoodtours.com) 99

and you’ll wander the streets of Old Town Scottsdale visiting local restaurants and

tasting some of their most popular dishes.

Outdoor Activities

BICYCLING

Although the Valley of the Sun is a sprawling place, it’s mostly flat and has numerous paved bike paths, which makes bicycling a breeze as long as it isn’t windy or, in the summer, too hot. In Scottsdale, Arizona Outback Adventures, 16447 N. 91st St., Ste. 101 ( 866/455-1601 or 480/945-2881; www.azoutbackadventures.com),

rents road bikes for $50 to $95 per day, hybrid/comfort bikes for $40 per day, and

mountain bikes for $40 to $95 per day. Mountain-biking trail maps are also avail-

able. This company also does half-day guided mountain-bike tours ($125 per person

with a two-person minimum). Bike rentals and tours are also available from Cactus Adventures ( 480/688-4743; www.cactusadventures.com), which charges $25

to $100 for a 24-hour bike rental and $89 to $159 for a half-day bike tour. This com-4 pany is located near South Mountain Park, which has some of the best mountain-

bike riding in the city. Guided rides can also be arranged through 360 Adventures ( 888/722-0360 or 480/722-0360; www.360-adventures.com).

Among the best mountain-biking spots in the city are Papago Park (at Van

Buren St. and Galvin Pkwy.), Phoenix South Mountain Park (use the entrance off

Baseline Rd. on 48th St.), and North Mountain Preserve (off 7th St. btw. Dunlap

Ave. and Thunderbird Rd.). With its rolling topography and wide dirt trails, Papago

Park is the best place for novice mountain bikers to get in some desert riding (and

the scenery here is great). For hard-core pedalers, Phoenix South Mountain Park is

the place to go. The National Trail is the ultimate death-defying ride here, but there Exploring Phoenix are lots of trails for intermediate riders, including the Desert Classic Trail and the short loop trails just north of the parking area at the 48th Street entrance. North

Mountain is another good place for intermediate riders. Farther afield, there’s great PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Papago Park is one of the Valley’s best mountain-biking spots.

100

riding at McDowell Mountain Regional Park, 16300 McDowell Mountain Park Rd.

( 480/471-0173; http://maricopa.gov/parks/mcdowell) in the northeast corner of the valley near the city of Fountain Hills. To reach this park, drive east from Scottsdale on Shea Boulevard and turn north on Saguaro Boulevard.

If you’d rather confine your cycling to a paved surface, there’s no better route

than Scottsdale’s Indian Bend Wash greenbelt, a paved path that extends for

more than 10 miles along Hayden Road (from north of Shea Blvd. to Tempe). The

Indian Bend Wash pathway can be accessed at many points along Hayden Road.

At the south end, the path connects to paved paths on the shores of Tempe Town

Lake and provides easy access to Tempe’s Mill Avenue shopping district.

GOLF

With more than 200 courses in the Valley of the Sun, golf is just about the most

popular sport in Phoenix and one of the main reasons people flock here in winter.

Sunshine, spectacular views, and the company of coyotes, quails, and doves

make playing a round of golf here a truly memorable experience.

However, despite the number of courses, it can be difficult to get a tee time

4

on any of the more popular courses (especially during the months of Feb, Mar,

and Apr). If you’re staying at a resort with a course, be sure to make your tee-time PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

reservations at the same time you make your room reservations. If you aren’t stay-

ing at a resort, you might still be able to play a round on a resort course if you can get a last-minute tee time. Try one of the tee-time reservations services below.

The only thing harder than getting a winter or spring tee time in the Valley

is facing the bill at the end of your 18 holes. Greens fees at most public and

resort courses range anywhere from $100 to $200, with the top courses often

charging $200 to $250 or more. Some municipal courses, on the other hand,

charge less than $60. Of course, you can save money on many courses by opting

for twilight play, which usually begins between 1 and 3pm. In the reviews below,

the greens fees listed are for the high season unless otherwise indicated.

You can get more information on Valley of the Sun golf courses from the

Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau, 125 N. Second St., Ste.

Exploring Phoenix

120 ( 877/225-5749 or 602/254-6500; www.visitphoenix.com).

It’s a good idea to make reservations well in advance. You can avoid the

hassle of booking tee times yourself by contacting Golf Xpress ( 888/679-

8246 or 602/404-4653; www.azgolfxpress.com), which can make reservations

further in advance than you could if you called the golf course directly, and can

sometimes get you lower greens fees as well. This company also makes hotel res-

ervations, rents golf clubs, and provides other assistance to golfers visiting the

Valley. For last-minute reservations, call Stand-by Golf ( 800/655-5345 or 480/874-3133; www.discountteetimes.com).

Arizona Biltmore Golf Club If you want a traditional course that has been

played by presidents and celebrities alike, try to get a tee time here. The two

18-hole courses are more relaxing than challenging, good to play if you’re not yet

up to par. Reservations can be made only 5 days in advance if you aren’t staying

at the Biltmore and are not an Arizona resident.

2400 E. Missouri Ave. www.azbiltmoregc.com. 602/955-9655. Greens fee $185 ($99 after 2pm).

ASU Karsten Golf Course This Pete Dye–designed course, part of Arizona

State University, is highly praised and a very challenging training ground for top

collegiate golfers. Online reservations are taken up to 60 days in advance.

1125 E. Rio Salado Pkwy., Tempe. www.asukarsten.com. 480/921-8070. Greens fees $80–$130.

101

4

The Boulders.

The Boulders

The many resort courses are the favored fairways of

Valley visitors, and for spectacular scenery, the two Jay Morrish–designed 18-hole

courses here just can’t be beat. Given the option, play the South Course, and

watch out as you approach the tee box on the 7th hole—it’s a real heart-stopper.

Exploring Phoenix Tee times for nonresort guests are very limited in winter and spring.

34631 N. Tom Darlington Dr., Carefree. www.bouldersclub.com. 480/488-9028. Greens fee $240–$275. Lower rates for guests, and there are sometimes deals online.

Camelback Golf Club Of the two courses here, the tree-shaded Padre

Course is more challenging. The Indian Bend Course is a links-style course with

great mountain views and lots of water hazards. Reservations can be made up to

30 days in advance.

7847 N. Mockingbird Lane. www.camelbackinn.com. 480/596-7050. Greens fee $139 Padre Course ($79 for twilight play); $99 Indian Bend Course ($59 for twilight play).

Dove Valley Ranch Golf Club This Robert Trent Jones, Jr.-designed course

on the north side of the Valley is something of a merger of desert and traditional

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

styles. It’s a good place to try out a desert-style course without having to take out a second mortgage for the experience.

33750 N. Dove Lakes Dr., Cave Creek. www.dovevalleyranch.com. 480/488-0009. Greens fee $80–$110 ($65–$85 for twilight play).

Gold Canyon Golf Resort

This course, way over on the east side of

the Valley at the foot of the Superstition Mountains, has been rated the best pub-

lic course in the state and has three of the state’s best holes—the 2nd, 3rd, and

4th on the visually breathtaking, desert-style Dinosaur Mountain course. The

Sidewinder course is more traditional and less dramatic, but much more eco-

nomical. You can make tee-time reservations up to 90 days in advance online. It’s

well worth the drive.

6100 S. Kings Ranch Rd., Gold Canyon. www.gcgr.com. 480/982-9449. Greens fee $189

Dinosaur Mountain course ($119 for twilight play); $99 Sidewinder course ($69 for twilight play).

102

Kierland Golf Club This club, which was designed by Scott Miller and con-

sists of three 9-hole courses that can be played in combination, is another much-

talked-about local daily-fee course. It’s affiliated with the Westin Kierland Resort and is conveniently located adjacent to the Kierland Commons shopping center.

15636 N. Clubgate Dr., Scottsdale. www.kierlandgolf.com. 480/922-9283. Greens fee $219–

$229 ($119 for twilight play).

Legacy Golf Resort If you’re looking for good value in traditional or links-

style courses, try this fairly forgiving course on the south side of the Valley.

6808 S. 32nd St. www.legacygolfresort.com. 888/828-3673 or 602/305-5550. Greens fee $109–$119 ($76–$83 for twilight play).

Ocotillo Golf Resort In the southeast part of the Valley, this resort has three

traditional 9-hole courses centered on 95 acres of man-made lakes, and that

means a lot of challenge.

3751 S. Clubhouse Dr., Chandler. www.ocotillogolf.com. 888/624-8899 or 480/917-6660.

Greens fee $129–$149 ($59–$69 for twilight play).

4

Phoenician Golf Club Set at the base of Camelback Mountain, at the Val-

ley’s most glamorous resort, this club has 27 holes that mix traditional and desert

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

styles. Tee-time reservations can be made up to 60 days in advance.

6000 E. Camelback Rd. www.thephoenician.com. 800/888-8234 or 480/423-2450. Greens

fee $199 for 9 holes ($119 twilight rate); resort guests get a discount.

Rancho Mañana Golf Club This course makes a good introduction to desert-

style golf, as it’s not as challenging as some other options in the area. It’s also not as expensive as many desert-style courses.

5734 E. Rancho Mañana Blvd., Cave Creek. www.ranchomanana.com. 480/488-0398. Gre-

ens fee $139 ($59 for twilight play).

Exploring Phoenix

Gold Canyon Golf Resort.

103

4

Phoenician Golf Club.

Tournament Players Club (TPC) of Scottsdale

If you want to swing

where the pros do, beg, borrow, or steal a tee time on the Tom Weiskopf and Jay

Morrish–designed Stadium Course, which hosts the PGA’s Waste Management

Phoenix Open. The 18th hole has standing room for 40,000 spectators, but

Exploring Phoenix hopefully there won’t be that many around the day you double-bogey this hole.

The TPC’s second 18, the Champions Course, is actually a municipal course,

thanks to an agreement with the landowner, the Bureau of Land Management.

17020 N. Hayden Rd. www.tpc.com/scottsdale. 888/400-4001 or 480/585-4334. Greens fee $299 Stadium Course ($203 for twilight play), $140 Champions Course ($100 for twilight play).

Troon North Golf Club

Of the Valley’s many daily-fee courses, it’s

the two 18-hole courses here, seemingly carved out of raw desert, that garner the

most local accolades. This is the finest example of a desert course that you’ll find anywhere in the state, and with five tee boxes on each hole, golfers of all levels

can enjoy this course.

10320 E. Dynamite Blvd., Scottsdale. www.troonnorthgolf.com. 480/585-7700. Greens fee PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

$199–$245 ($145–$175 for twilight play).

We-Ko-Pa Golf Club Located off the Beeline Highway (Ariz. 87) on the Fort

McDowell Yavapai Nation in the northeast corner of the Valley, this club gets rave

reviews. The course name is Yavapai for “Four Peaks,” which is the mountain range

you’ll be marveling at as you play. Unlike at other area courses, fairways at the two 18-hole courses here are bounded by desert, not luxury homes, so make sure you

keep your ball on the grass. Reservations are taken up to 90 days in advance.

18200 E. Toh Vee Circle, Fort McDowell. www.wekopa.com. 866/660-7700 or 480/836-9000.

Greens fee $185–$205.

104

THE TOP municipal COURSES

Of the municipal courses in Phoenix, Papago Golf Course, 5595 E. Moreland St.

( 602/275-8428; www.papagogolfcourse.net), at the foot of the red sandstone

Papago Buttes, offers fine views and a killer 17th hole. Winter greens fees here range from $37 to $74 depending on the time of day and whether you walk or rent a cart.

Encanto Golf Course, 2775 N. 15th Ave. ( 602/253-3963), is the third-oldest

course in Arizona and, with its wide fairways and lack of hazards, is very forgiving.

Cave Creek Golf Course, 15202 N. 19th Ave. ( 602/866-8076), in north Phoenix, is

another good, economical choice; this course was built atop a former landfill. Aguila Golf Course, 8440 S. 35th Ave., Laveen ( 602/237-9601), although a bit inconveniently located in the southwest corner of the Valley, was designed by Gary Panks. In winter, greens fees at Encanto, Cave Creek, and Aguila are $25 to $57 depending on

when you play and whether you use a golf cart. For details on these courses, contact Phoenix Golf ( 866/865-4653 for reservations or 602/237-9601; http://phoenix.

gov/recreation/rec/facilities/golf/index.html#a4).

Tempe’s

Rolling Hills Golf Course,

9-hole courses here, and cool-season

4

1415 N. Mill Ave., Tempe ( 480/350-

greens fee is a very reasonable $23 to

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

5275; www.tempe.gov/golf), on the

$26 for 18 holes. A golf cart rental is

south side of Papago Park, is another

additional. Reservations can be made a

good little municipal course with eco-

week in advance.

nomical rates. There are two executive

The Wigwam This Litchfield Park resort, on the far west side of the Valley,

has three championship 18-hole courses. The Gold Course is legendary, but even

the Patriot and Heritage courses are worth playing. These are traditional courses

for purists who want vast expanses of green rather than cacti and boulders. Res-

ervations can be made up to 90 days in advance.

Exploring Phoenix

300 Wigwam Blvd. www.wigwamresort.com. 800/909-4224 or 623/935-9414. Greens fee

$89–$109 ($60 for twilight play).

HIKING

Several mountains around Phoenix, including Camelback Mountain and Piestewa

Peak, have been set aside as parks and nature preserves, and these natural areas are among the city’s most popular hiking spots. The city’s largest nature preserve,

South Mountain Park/Preserve ( 602/262-7393; www.phoenix.gov/

parks), covers 16,000 acres and is the largest city park in the United States. This

park contains more than 50 miles of hiking, mountain-biking, and horseback-riding

trails, and the views of Phoenix (whether from along the National Trail or from the

parking lot at the Buena Vista Lookout) are spectacular, especially at sunset. To

reach the park’s main entrance, drive south on Central Avenue, which leads right

into the park. Once inside the park, turn left on Summit Road and follow it to the

Buena Vista Lookout, which provides a great view of the city and is the trailhead for the National Trail. If you hike east on this trail for 2 miles, you’ll come to an unusual little natural tunnel that makes a good turnaround point. The Holbert Trail, a

5-mile round-trip hike that passes numerous petroglyphs, is another of my favorite

105

trails here at South Mountain Park. To access this trail, turn left at the signed activity complex just inside the Central Avenue gate and drive to the last covered picnic area near the restrooms.

Another place to get in some relatively easy and convenient hiking is

Papago Park, Galvin Parkway and McDowell Road ( 602/261-8318; www.

phoenix.gov/parks), home to the Desert Botanical Garden, the Phoenix Zoo, col-

orful sandstone buttes, and the fascinating Hole in the Rock (a red-rock butte

with a large natural opening in it). There are both paved and dirt trails within the park; the most popular hikes are around the Papago Buttes (park on W. Park Dr.)

and up onto the rocks at Hole in the Rock (park past the zoo at the information

center). During World War II, there was a German POW camp here.

Perhaps the most popular hike in the city is the trail to the top of Camel-

back Mountain , in the Echo Canyon Recreation Area ( 602/261-

8318; www.phoenix.gov/parks), near the boundary between Phoenix and

Scottsdale. At 2,704 feet high, this is the highest mountain in Phoenix and boasts

the finest mountaintop views in the city. The 1.2-mile Summit Trail that leads to

4 the top of Camelback Mountain is outrageously steep and gains 1,200 feet from

trailhead to summit. Yet on any given day there will be ironmen and ironwomen

nonchalantly jogging up and down to stay fit. At times, it almost feels like a

health-club singles scene. To reach the trailhead, drive up 44th Street until it

becomes McDonald Drive, turn right on East Echo Canyon Parkway, and con-

tinue up the hill until the road ends at a parking lot, which is often full. Don’t

attempt this one in the heat of the day, and bring at least a quart of water.

Although people do this hike in sneakers, I would never dream of bagging this

peak without good hiking boots on my feet.

Exploring Phoenix

At the east end of Camelback Mountain is the Cholla Trail, which, at 1.5

miles in length, isn’t as steep as the Summit Trail (at least not until you get close to the summit, where the route gets steep, rocky, and very difficult). The only

parking for this trail is along Invergordon Road at Chaparral Road, just north of

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

South Mountain Park.

106

Camelback Road (along the east

boundary of the Phoenician resort). Be

sure to park in a legal parking space

and watch the hours in which parking

is allowed. There’s a good turnaround

point below the summit, and great

views down onto the fairways of the

golf course at the Phoenician resort.

The 2,608-foot-tall Piestewa

Peak, in the Phoenix Mountains

Park and Recreation Area/Dreamy

Draw Recreation Area ( 602/261-

8318; www.phoenix.gov/parks), offers

another aerobic workout of a hike and

Camelback Mountain is the city’s most

has views almost as spectacular as

popular hike.

those from Camelback Mountain. It is

1.2 miles to the summit, and the trail 4

gains almost 1,200 feet. Piestewa Peak is reached from Squaw Peak Drive off

Lincoln Drive between 22nd and 23rd streets. Another section of this park, with

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

much easier trails, can be reached by taking the Northern Avenue exit off Ariz. 51

and then driving east into Dreamy Draw Recreation Area.

Of all the popular mountain trails in the Phoenix area, the trail through Pin-

nacle Peak Park, 26802 N. 102nd Way ( 480/312-0990; www.scottsdaleaz.

gov/parks/pinnacle), in north Scottsdale, is my favorite. The trail through the

park is a 3.5-mile round-trip hike and is immensely popular with the local fitness

crowd. Forget about stopping to smell the desert penstemon; if you don’t keep up

the pace, someone’s liable to knock you off the trail into a prickly pear. If you can find a parking space (arrive before 9am on weekends) and can ignore the crowds,

you’ll be treated to views of rugged desert mountains (and posh desert suburbs).

November through April, there are guided hikes Tuesday through Sunday at

10am. There are also astronomy evenings and other events here. To find the park

Exploring Phoenix

from central Scottsdale, go north on North Pima Road, turn right on East Happy

Valley Road, left on North Alma School Parkway, left on East Pinnacle Peak Park-

way, and left on North 102nd Way.

For much less vigorous hiking (without the crowds), try North Mountain

Park ( 602/262-7901; www.phoenix.gov/parks), in North Mountain Pre-

serve. This natural area, located on either side of Seventh Street between Dunlap

Avenue and Thunderbird Road, has more flat hiking than Camelback Mountain

or Piestewa Peak.

Another great place to go for a hike in the desert is north Scottsdale’s

McDowell Sonoran Preserve ( 480/998-7971; www.mcdowellsonoran.

org), where you’ll find miles of relatively easy and uncrowded trails. The pre-

serve’s main access is at the Gateway Trailhead, 18333 N. Thompson Peak

Pkwy., where you’ll find many miles of trails. To reach this trailhead, take E. Bell Road east from U.S. 101 and turn left on N. Thompson Peak Parkway. The best

place to access these trails is at the Lost Dog Wash Access Area at 124th Street

north of Via Linda. To reach this trailhead, drive east on Shea Boulevard, turn

north on 124th Street, and watch for the parking lot after you pass Via Linda. The

2.5-mile Ringtail Loop Trail is a good choice for an hour’s hike.

107

North of Scottsdale, in the town of Cave Creek, you’ll find a couple of my

favorite hikes. The Black Mountain Trail is an uncrowded alternative to such

popular hikes as Camelback Mountain and Piestewa Peak. This 1-mile trail leads

to the summit of Black Mountain, and from the top you can gaze out over all of

Cave Creek and Carefree. Keep an eye out for lizards lounging on the rocks at the

summit. To find the trailhead, take Schoolhouse Road south from Cave Creek

Road for 1⁄4 mile and park on the side of the road at the end of the pavement. The

hike starts on the road that seems to lead straight up the mountain and then veers

off onto the narrow trail. Both longer and less strenuous hikes can be found 3 miles north of Cave Creek at Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area, 44000 N. Spur

Cross Rd. ( 480/488-6623; www.maricopa.gov/parks/spur_cross). Here you

can wander by the water along Cottonwood Creek or hike up on the slopes of

Elephant Mountain. In spring, the wildflowers here can be gorgeous. Best of all,

this is the closest desert hiking in the Valley that really has the feel of being away from the city. To reach the trailhead, take Spur Cross Road north from Cave Creek

Road. There is a $3 day-use fee. Also in the same general area, you’ll find Cave

4 Creek Regional Park, 37900 N. Cave Creek Pkwy. ( 623/465-0431; www.

maricopa.gov/parks/cave_creek), which is even larger than the Spur Cross Ranch

park and has 11 miles of hiking trails. For a hike of just under 6 miles, head out on the Go John Trail. You’ll find the park southwest of the town of Cave Creek off

Carefree Highway (Ariz. 74) at 32nd Street. There is a $6 day-use fee.

The Peralta Trail, way out on the east side of the Valley in the impossibly

steep and jagged Superstition Mountains, just might be my favorite hike in the

entire state. Unfortunately, a lot of other people feel the same way, and on week-

ends, the trail is almost always packed with people. However, if you come early

Exploring Phoenix on a weekday, you can have this trail almost all to yourself. The route climbs steadily, though not too steeply, past huge old saguaros to a saddle with a view

that will take your breath away (or was it the hike up from the trailhead that left

you gasping?). The view is an in-your-face look at Weaver’s Needle, the Supersti-

tion Mountains’ most famous pinnacle. The hike to the view at Fremont Saddle

is 4.6 miles round-trip. To reach the trailhead, drive east from Phoenix on U.S.

60 for 81⁄2 miles past Apache Junction to Peralta Road, and then drive 8 miles

north, mostly on a gravel road, to the trailhead. For information, contact the

Tonto National Forest’s Mesa Ranger District, 5140 E. Ingram St., Mesa

( 480/610-3300; www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto).

In the same general area as the Peralta Trail (on the south side of the Supersti-

tion Mountains), near the Gold Canyon Resort, a relatively short hike will lead you

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

to a small canyon where ancient petroglyphs cover a rock wall beside several pools

of water. Known as Hieroglyphic Canyon, this rock-art site is reached via a 1.1-mile trail up a gentle slope through dense stands of cactus. To reach the trailhead, drive east from Phoenix on U.S. 60 to Gold Canyon. Turn north on King’s Ranch

Road and follow this road to a right turn onto Baseline Road. Then turn left on

Mohican Road, left again on Valley View Drive, and right on Cloudview Avenue,

which leads into the trailhead parking lot. For more information, contact the Tonto

National Forest’s Mesa Ranger District (see above) for information.

Way out on the west side of the Valley, where suburban sprawl bumps up

against the rugged mountains, you’ll find White Tank Mountain Regional

Park, 20304 W. White Tank Mountain Rd., Waddell ( 623/935-2505; www.

maricopa.gov/parks/white_tank), and the popular but very rewarding Waterfall

Trail. This 1.8-mile round-trip hike leads past Indian petroglyphs to, you guessed 108

it, a waterfall. Well, sometimes. Most of the year, the waterfall isn’t running, but after a rainstorm, water cascades over the rocks here. Whether the creek is running or not, this is a pretty spot. You can escape the crowds by heading out on

some of the park’s more remote and rugged trails. There’s a $6 day-use fee.

If you’d prefer to have an experienced local guide lead you on a desert hike,

contact Take A Hike Arizona ( 866/615-2748 or 480/634-8488; www.

takeahikearizona.com), which offers hikes of varying lengths and difficulty levels.

Guided hikes are also available from 360 Adventures ( 888/722-0360 or 480/722-0360; www.360-adventures.com) and Cactus Adventures ( 480/688-4743; www.cactusadventures.com).

HORSEBACK RIDING

Even in the urban confines of the Phoenix metro area, people like to play at being

cowboys, and there are plenty of places around the Valley to saddle up your palo-

mino. Because any guided ride is going to lead you through interesting desert

scenery, your best bet is to pick a stable close to where you’re staying. Keep in

mind that most stables require or prefer reservations.

4

The most centrally located place to ride is Papago Stable, 400 N. Scotts-

dale Rd. ( 480/966-9793; www.papagoridingstable.com), which is on the

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

north shore of Tempe Town Lake. You’ll pay $30 for a 1-hour ride through Papago

Park, and while the park is bordered by a freeway, it still has the feel of the desert, complete with old Indian ruins.

On the south side of the city, try Ponderosa Stables, 10215 S. Central

Ave. ( 602/268-1261; www.arizona-horses.com), which leads rides into

South Mountain Park and charges $33 for a 1-hour ride or $55 for a 2-hour ride.

These stables also offer dinner rides ($45) to a steakhouse, where you buy your

own dinner before riding back under the stars. Because these rides are in one of

the city’s most popular parks, a ride here is more of an urban experience than a

genuine Western horseback adventure. For a more adventurous experience, try

one of the following stables.

On the north side of the Valley, Cave Creek Outfitters, off Dynamite

Exploring Phoenix

Boulevard at 31313 N. 144th St., Scottsdale ( 888/921-0040 or 480/471-

4635; www.cavecreekoutfitters.com), offers 1-hour rides for $50, 2-hour rides for

$70, and half-day rides for $125. Between October and May, if you are doing a

2-hour or half-day ride, you can arrange for transportation from your Scottsdale

resort for $10 per person. Mid-October through mid-April, you can also ride

through Cave Creek Regional Park with Cave Creek Trail Rides, 37900 N.

Cave Creek Pkwy. ( 623/742-6700; www.cavecreektrailrides.com). A 1-hour

ride costs $43 for adults and $38 for children 6 to 12; longer rides are also

offered. The park is at the corner of Carefree Highway (Ariz. 74) and 32nd Street

on the southwest side of the town of Cave Creek.

On the east side of the Valley, on the southern slopes of the Superstitions,

you’ll find Don Donnelly D-Spur Ranch & Riding Stables, 15189 E. Peralta Rd., Gold Canyon ( 602/810-7029; www.dondonnelly.com), which charges

$32 for a 1-hour ride, $60 for a 2-hour ride, and $100 for a half-day ride. Novem-

ber through May, overnight rides are available for $200 per person. OK Corral

Horseback Riding Stables ( 480/982-4040; www.okcorrals.com), near

Apache Junction, also leads riders through the desert near the Superstition

Mountains. A 1-hour ride is $35 and a 2-hour ride is $60. There are also steak-

dinner rides, all-day rides, and even multiday trips.

109

TENNIS

Most major hotels in the area have tennis courts, and there are several tennis

resorts around the Valley. If you’re staying someplace without a court, try the

Scottsdale Ranch Park & Tennis Center, 10400 E. Via Linda, Scottsdale

( 480/312-7774; www.scottsdaleaz.gov/parks/srp.asp). Court fees range from

$4 to $12 for 11⁄2 hours; call for hours.

WATER PARKS

If you happen to be visiting during the hotter months, consider taking the family

to one of the Valley’s water parks. At Mesa Golfland Sunsplash, 155 W.

Hampton Ave., Mesa ( 480/834-8319; www.golfland.com), you can splash in

a wave pool and ride a variety of water slides. This park is generally open from

mid-May to Labor Day weekend (call for hours) and charges $27 for anyone

taller than 48 inches, $20 for seniors and anyone under 48 inches, and $3 for

children 2 and under. There are also some water slides here that open at the start

of spring break in March.

4 WHITE-WATER RAFTING & TUBING

The desert may not seem like the place for white-water rafting, but up in the

mountains to the northeast of Phoenix, the Upper Salt River still flows wild

and free and offers some exciting rafting. Most years from about late February to

late May, snowmelt from the White Mountains floods the river and fills it with

exciting Class III and IV rapids (sometimes, however, there just isn’t enough

water). Companies operating full-day, overnight, and multiday rafting trips on the

Upper Salt River (conditions permitting) include Wilderness Aware Rafting

Exploring Phoenix ( 800/462-7238; www.inaraft.com), Canyon Rio Rafting ( 800/272-3353; www.canyonrio.com), and Mild to Wild Rafting ( 800/567-6745; www.mild2wildrafting.com). Prices range from $119 to $151 for a day trip.

Tamer river trips can be had from Salt River Tubing and Recreation

( 480/984-3305; www.saltrivertubing.com), which has its headquarters 20

miles northeast of Phoenix on Power Road at the intersection of Usery Pass Road

in Tonto National Forest. For $15, the company will rent you a large inner tube

and shuttle you by bus upriver for the float down. Because tubing the Salt River

is very popular with partying high-school and college students, I don’t recom-

mended these trips for families. Alcohol, drug use, and nudity are common on

the river. The inner-tubing season runs from May to September.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Spas

Ever since the first “lungers” showed up in the Phoenix area hoping to cure their

tuberculosis, the desert has been a magnet for those looking to get healthy. In the

first half of the 20th century, health spas were all the rage in Phoenix, and today

spas are still immensely popular in the Valley of the Sun. All of the area’s top

resorts have impressive full-service spas that offer massages, body wraps, mud

masks, salt glows, and countless other treatments.

If you can’t or don’t want to spend the money to stay at a luxury resort and

avail yourself of the spa, you may still be able to indulge. Most resorts open their spas to the public, and for the cost of a body treatment or massage, you can spend

the day at the spa taking classes, working out in an exercise room, or lounging by

the pool. Barring this indulgence, you can slip into one of the Valley’s many day

spas and take a stress-reduction break the way other people take a coffee break.

110

Romance and relaxation take cen-

ter stage at Alvadora Spa at Royal

Palms, 5200 E. Camelback Rd.

( 866/579-3637 or 602/977-6400;

www.royalpalmshotel.com), where a

Mediterranean ambience prevails. The

citrus ritual and orange-blossom body

buff are two of the spa’s signature treat-

ments. Most 60-minute treatments

cost $140 to $150, and packages run

$232 to $380.

The historic setting and conve-

nient location of the Arizona Biltmore

Spa, 2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix

( 602/381-7632; www.arizona

biltmore.com), make this facility an

excellent choice if you’re staying or 4

Alvadora Spa at Royal Palms.

spending time along the Camelback

Corridor. The spa menu includes doz-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

ens of different treatments, including a variety of massages, body scrubs, wraps,

and facials. If you have just one 50-minute treatment (priced $135–$185), you

can use all of the spa’s facilities for the rest of the day. Packages cost $225 to $570.

If you want truly spectacular surroundings as well as bragging rights, head

north to the Boulders Resort and the Golden Door Spa, 34631 N. Tom Dar-

lington Dr., Carefree ( 480/595-3500; www.goldendoorspas.com). Although

this spa has the best name recognition of any spa in the Valley, it is not the most

impressive. However, at 33,000 square feet and with 24 treatment spaces, it is

certainly large. Also, the list of services is one of the most extensive in the Valley and includes both ayurvedic and Southwest–inspired treatments. The turquoise

wrap, the spa’s signature treatment, is a real desert experience. Most 50-minute

treatments cost between $135 and $230. Packages are $450 to $1,900.

Exploring Phoenix

The Centre for Well Being at the Phoenician, 6000 E. Camelback Rd.,

Scottsdale ( 800/843-2392 or 480/423-2452; www.centreforwellbeing.com),

is one of the Valley’s most prestigious spas. For $140 to $150, you can get a

50-minute spa treatment (anything from a desert serenity scrub to a shea butter

wrap with honey-avocado foot therapy) and then spend the day using the many

facilities. Packages range from $290 to $620.

At Joya Spa, 4949 E. Lincoln Dr., Paradise Valley ( 888/691-5692 or

480/627-3020; www.joyaspa.com), in the luxurious Montelucia Resort & Spa,

you’ll find the most romantic spa in the valley. With its couples suites, it’s the

perfect place for a day of relaxing with the one you love. The spa’s signature treatment is the hammam ritual ($209 to $219), which involves relaxing in a warming room, then a scrub followed by an herbal steam bath, whirlpool, sauna, cold del-uge, body cleansing, and massage. Most 50-minute massages run $149 to $169.

Located high on the flanks of Mummy Mountain, the Spa at Camelback

Inn , 5402 E. Lincoln Dr., Scottsdale ( 800/922-2635 or 480/596-7040; www.camelbackspa.com), has long been one of the Valley’s premier spas and gets

my vote for all-around best spa in the Valley. The location is convenient, the

views are fabulous, the setting is tranquil, and there’s a long menu of relaxing spa services. For the cost of a single 1-hour treatment—between $135 and

111

Now That’s a Fountain

Arizona loves its water features. Reser-

600-horsepower pumps, it can shoot

voirs, canals, pools, fountains—they’re

water 560 feet into the air. However, the

everywhere in the desert. You’d never

fountain usually operates on only two

think that water is in short supply around

pumps, with the plume reaching a mere

these parts. One of the most unusual

300 feet on average. Unless there are

water features is the Fountain Hills foun-

high winds, the fountain operates daily

tain, less than 20 miles northeast of

from 9am to 9pm every hour on the hour

Scottsdale. This fountain, for which the

for 15 minutes. To find the fountain, take

town is named, is one of the tallest

Shea Boulevard east from Scottsdale

fountains in the world. Using three

Road or U.S. 101.

$175—you can use all the facilities, which include a fitness center and pool.

Packages run from $190 to $360.

4

Spa Avania, Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort and Spa at Gainey Ranch,

7500 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Scottsdale ( 480/444-1234; www.spaavania.

com), takes its name from the Greek work for “tranquil” and offers spa treat-

ments designed to stimulate all the senses and also take into consideration the

time of day and the body’s natural rhythms. One-hour treatments run $165 to

$180, while packages cost anywhere from $297 to $555.

Willow Stream–The Spa at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess ,

7575 E. Princess Dr. ( 866/540-4495 or 480/585-2732; www.scottsdale

princess.com), is my favorite Valley spa. Designed to conjure up images of the

Exploring Phoenix journey to northern Arizona’s magical Havasu Canyon, it includes a rooftop swimming pool and a large hot tub in a grotto below the pool. Because this is one of the largest spas in the Valley, you stand a better chance of getting last-minute reservations. Most 60-minute treatments cost $169 to $189. There are also several

options for couples.

Especially for Kids

In addition to the following suggestions, kids are likely to enjoy the Arizona Science Center, the Arizona Museum of Natural History, the Hall of Flame Firefighting

Museum, and the Phoenix Zoo—all described in detail earlier in this chapter.

Arizona Doll & Toy Museum MUSEUM This small museum is located in

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

the historic Stevens House on Heritage Square in downtown Phoenix. The min-

iature classroom peopled by doll students is a favorite exhibit. With dolls dating

from the 19th century, this is a definite must for doll collectors.

At Heritage Sq., 602 E. Adams St. 602/253-9337. Admission $3 adults, $1 children 12 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun noon–4pm. Closed in Aug. Bus: 0 or DASH downtown shuttle.

METRO light rail: Central Station.

Arizona Museum for Youth MUSEUM Using both traditional displays

and participatory activities, this museum allows children to explore the fine

arts and their own creativity. It’s housed in a refurbished grocery store, and the

highlight is Artville, an arts-driven kid-size town. Exhibits are geared mainly

toward toddlers through 12-year-olds, but all ages can work together to experi-

ence the activities.

112

35 N. Robson St. (btw. Main and 1st sts.), Mesa. www.arizonamuseumforyouth.com. 480/644-2467. Admission $7, free for children under 1. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun noon–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 30.

Castles-n-Coasters AMUSEMENT PARK Located adjacent to Metrocen-

ter, one of Arizona’s largest shopping malls, this small amusement park boasts an

impressive double-loop roller coaster, plenty of tamer rides, four 18-hole miniature-golf courses, and a huge pavilion full of video games.

9445 N. Metro Pkwy. E. www.castlesncoasters.com. 602/997-7575. Ride and game prices vary; all-day passes $25–$35. Daily (hours change seasonally; call ahead). Bus: 27.

Children’s Museum of Phoenix MUSEUM Housed in a large downtown

Phoenix building that was once a school, this children’s museum makes learning

fun for the little ones. Hands-on, interactive exhibits include an art studio, a cool climbing structure, a noodle forest, a kid-sized play cafe, and a place for toddlers.

In one exhibit, kids can learn about the flora and fauna of the Sonoran Desert.

215 N. 7th St. www.childrensmuseumofphoenix.org. 602/253-0501. Admission $11 adults, $10 seniors, free for children under 1; free for all 1st Fri of each month. Tues–Sun 9am–4pm.

4

Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Bus: DASH downtown shuttle. METRO

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

light rail: 3rd St./Washington station.

CrackerJax Family Fun & Sports Park AMUSEMENT PARK Two minia-

ture-golf courses are the main attractions here, but you’ll also find a driving range, a professional putting course for grown-up golfers, batting cages, go-cart tracks,

a bumper-boat lagoon, a bungee dome, and a video-game arcade.

16001 N. Scottsdale Rd. (1⁄4 mile south of Bell Rd.), Scottsdale. www.crackerjax.com. 480/998-2800. Activity prices vary; multiple-activity pass $15–$25. Sun–Thurs 10am–10pm; Fri–Sat 10am–

midnight (driving range opens at 8am). Closed Christmas. Bus: 72.

McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park PARKS/GARDEN If you or your kids

happen to like trains, you won’t want to miss this park. On the grounds are

restored railroad cars and engines, two

Wher

old railway depots, model railroad lay-

outs, and, best of all, a scale model rail-

e to Eat

road that takes visitors around the

park. A 1929 carousel and a general

store round out the attractions.

7301 E. Indian Bend Rd. (at Scottsdale Rd.),

Scottsdale. www.therailroadpark.com. 480/

312-2312. Train $2; carousel rides $2; museum

admission $2 adults, free for children 2 and

under. Hours vary with the season; call for

schedule. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas

McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park.

(museum closed June–Sept). Bus: 72.

WHERE TO EAT

While there is hardly a corner of the Valley that doesn’t have someplace good to

eat, many of the best restaurants are concentrated in the Scottsdale Road, north

Scottsdale, and Biltmore Corridor areas. If you want to splurge on only one

expensive meal while you’re here, consider a resort restaurant or a place that

113

Bell Rd.

Bell Rd.

Alice Cooper’stown 10

.

12

.

To Flagstaff

America's Taco Shop 7

.

Turf Paradise

d

51

t

Phoenix, Scottsdale &

e

R

Racetrack

Greenway Rd.

.

v

k

h S

Arcadia Farms 34

e

Greenway Rd.

13 14

t

Ar

v

.t

t.

4

the V9alley of the Sun

i

Bandera 33

zon

ay

h A

d.

.

t

d

a

Beckett's Table 26

Restaurants

Thunderbird Rd.

h A

9

t

1

Thunderbird Rd.

Bourbon Steak 12

5

reew

h S

Cave Cree

.

Sweetwater Ave.

3

t

d

7

Sweetwater Ave.

d.

Café Lalibela 42

0

3 mi

Cactus Rd.

North Mountain

Cactus Rd.

Carlsbad Tavern 36

.

e R

anyon F

Preserve

t

l

PEORIA

a

0

3 km

Carolina’s 11

32nd S

d

ayden R

Peoria Rd.

Shea Blvd.

h S

s

t

tt

H Shea Blvd.

Chelsea’s Kitchen 21

6

o

5

Invergordon R

c

Black C

Citizen Public House 31

GLENDALE

Canal

S

m R

Flagstaff

Coup des Tartes 2

Dunlap Ave.

ut

Dreamy Draw

a Doubletree Ranch Rd.

ARIZONA

T

Cowboy Ciao Wine Bar & Grill 31

Phoenix

To Wickenburg

Park

Delux 23

Northern Ave.

ay Phoenix Mountains

101

Tucson

Deseo 13

.

PARADISE VALLEY

17

e

Preserve

v

Eddie’s House 35

Gra

Piestewa Peak

Glendale Ave.

El Chorro Lodge 15

n

Indian Bend Rd.

d A

1

a Freew

Park

15

16

El Molino Mexican Café 37

v

Maryland Ave.

h A

e

t

Lincoln Dr.

.

9

17

Elements 19

Bethany Home Rd.

1

18

McDonald Dr.

.

Piestew

22

19

d

The Farm at South Mountain/The

Missouri Ave.

t.

.

21 Camelback Mountain/

e

Farm Kitchen 43

Camelback Rd.

v

24

23 t.

29

Echo Canyon

30

25 28 Recreation Area

Freeway

5th and Wine 31

3

2

.

60

4

27

t

a R

20

31

Camelback Rd. To Payson

FnB 31

Canal 5 .

l A

t.

m

t.

32

i

Pima

Indian School Rd.

e

a

.

24th S

P

v

r

35

Frank & Lupe’s 35

Grand

t

t

d.

. Indian School Rd.

32nd S 26

t.

87

Osborn Rd.

ne

34 33

Rd

Fry Bread House 5

C

h S

Osborn Rd.

.

.

h A

t

t

d

6

37

R

wy.

36

Grazie Pizzeria Winebar 34

.

.

Thomas Rd.

.

t

1

t.

t.

.

Thomas Rd.

e

e

.

7

56th S

d

v

v

e

6

The Grind 25

A

Ave

A

v

h S

A

ve.

DOWNTOWN

8

t

64th S

SCOTTSDALE

51

7

4

38

Dobson

Beeline H

Guedo's Cantina Grille 49

McDowell Rd.

4

48th S

52nd S

r

PHOENIX

R

h S

e

McDowell Rd.

e

House of Tricks 40

10

10

202

d

t

li

ayden R

To Los Angeles

40th S

8

Papago Freeway

M

Papago 6

M

H

Humble Pie 18

10

o

Van Buren St.

u

e R

Park

l

39 n

Van B

a

uren St.

McKellips Rd.

Kai 45

h t

Washington

St.

Sky Harbor

ta

d

5

i

s

La Grande Orange Pizzeria 27

17

9

International Airport

n

t

3

27th A

t

202

143

o

River

.

MESA

Buckeye Rd.

r

85

10

Freeway

c

LON’s at the Hermosa 22

h

Salt

t

h

h t

S

202

r.

.

Los Sombreros 38

5

9

11

D

r

7

41

D

67t

5

m . .

b D

a

r

40

ul

MacAlpine’s Restaurant and Soda

k yp

University Dr.

.

.

o x

Fountain 6

e

t

h E

42

47

v

S

o

Apache Blvd.

Main St.

Malee's Thai on Main 34

Broadway Rd.

A

H

y Cr

Salt

River

10

TEMPE

t

y el

t.

.e

Broadway Rd.

nu

esa

p

The Mission 33

Rawhide Steakhouse 45

ve.

t.

v

o

M

at

46

Monti’s La Casa Vieja 41

Roaring Fork 30

.

ve.

t D

C

S

e

s

l A

101

v

l

Southern Ave.

eir

i

Nobuo at Teeter House 9

Rustler’s Rooste 44

M

Southern Ave.

h

32nd S

P

t

Superstition Freeway

43

48

noca 23

Sierra Bonita Grill 1

d A

7

60

60

r

l

24th S

North Fattoria Italiana 28

Stax Burger Bistro 31

3

Baseline

a

Rd.

4

rt

Baseline Rd.

n

Old Town Tortilla Factory 34

St. Francis 3

e

10

y

19th A

7th A

C

44

a

.

Organ Stop Pizza 48

.

The Stockyards Restaurant

w

d

Dobbins Rd.

e

Guadalupe

e

Rd.

The Original Blue Adobe Grille 47

v

e

& 1889 Saloon 39

r

.

.r

d

.

.

d.

F

R

e

d

Pane Bianco 4

T. Cook’s 20

v

e

Rd.

Elliot Rd.

y

Elliot Rd.

ci

l R

The Parlor 24

Ted’s Hot Dogs 46

a

r

o

P

o

R

w

h

Petite Maison 32

Tuck Shop 8

e

c

87

er

Pizzeria Bianco 9

Estrel a Dr.

Veneto Trattoria Italiana 18

PHOENIX SOUTH

k D

F Warner Rd. c

.

n

a

o

d

a A

n

'Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana 17

t A

MOUNTAIN PARK

p

t

o

n

e

s

Vincent on Camelback 29

o

n

s

i

o

e

1

c

Rural R

l

101

b

i

a S

zi

u

Quiessence 43

5

Vincent Market Bistro 29

45

r To Tucson

C

e R

o

a

c

c

D

m

49

Ray Rd.

i

l

r

Qc

Cooper

Rancho Pinot 16

Zinc Bistro 14

M

M

r

A

A

M

P

114

Bell Rd.

Bell Rd.

Alice Cooper’stown 10

.

12

.

To Flagstaff

America's Taco Shop 7

.

Turf Paradise

d

51

t

Phoenix, Scottsdale &

e

R

Racetrack

Greenway Rd.

.

v

k

h S

Arcadia Farms 34

e

Greenway Rd.

13 14

t

Ar

v

.t

t.

4

the V9alley of the Sun

i

Bandera 33

zon

ay

h A

d.

.

t

d

a

Beckett's Table 26

Restaurants

Thunderbird Rd.

h A

9

t

1

Thunderbird Rd.

Bourbon Steak 12

5

reew

h S

Cave Cree

.

Sweetwater Ave.

3

t

d

7

Sweetwater Ave.

d.

Café Lalibela 42

0

3 mi

Cactus Rd.

North Mountain

Cactus Rd.

Carlsbad Tavern 36

.

e R

anyon F

Preserve

t

l

PEORIA

a

0

3 km

Carolina’s 11

32nd S

d

ayden R

Peoria Rd.

Shea Blvd.

h S

s

t

tt

H Shea Blvd.

Chelsea’s Kitchen 21

6

o

5

Invergordon R

c

Black C

Citizen Public House 31

GLENDALE

Canal

S

m R

Flagstaff

Coup des Tartes 2

Dunlap Ave.

ut

Dreamy Draw

a Doubletree Ranch Rd.

ARIZONA

T

Cowboy Ciao Wine Bar & Grill 31

Phoenix

To Wickenburg

Park

Delux 23

Northern Ave.

ay Phoenix Mountains

101

Tucson

Deseo 13

.

PARADISE VALLEY

17

e

Preserve

v

Eddie’s House 35

Gra

Piestewa Peak

Glendale Ave.

El Chorro Lodge 15

n

Indian Bend Rd.

d A

1

a Freew

Park

15

16

El Molino Mexican Café 37

v

Maryland Ave.

h A

e

t

Lincoln Dr.

.

9

17

Elements 19

Bethany Home Rd.

1

18

McDonald Dr.

.

Piestew

22

19

d

The Farm at South Mountain/The

Missouri Ave.

t.

.

21 Camelback Mountain/

e

Farm Kitchen 43

Camelback Rd.

v

24

23 t.

29

Echo Canyon

30

25 28 Recreation Area

Freeway

5th and Wine 31

3

2

.

60

4

27

t

a R

20

31

Camelback Rd. To Payson

FnB 31

Canal 5 .

l A

t.

m

t.

32

i

Pima

Indian School Rd.

e

a

.

24th S

P

v

r

35

Frank & Lupe’s 35

Grand

t

t

d.

. Indian School Rd.

32nd S 26

t.

87

Osborn Rd.

ne

34 33

Rd

Fry Bread House 5

C

h S

Osborn Rd.

.

.

h A

t

t

d

6

37

R

wy.

36

Grazie Pizzeria Winebar 34

.

.

Thomas Rd.

.

t

1

t.

t.

.

Thomas Rd.

e

e

.

7

56th S

d

v

v

e

6

The Grind 25

A

Ave

A

v

h S

A

ve.

DOWNTOWN

8

t

64th S

SCOTTSDALE

51

7

4

38

Dobson

Beeline H

Guedo's Cantina Grille 49

McDowell Rd.

4

48th S

52nd S

r

PHOENIX

R

h S

e

McDowell Rd.

e

House of Tricks 40

10

10

202

d

t

li

ayden R

To Los Angeles

40th S

8

Papago Freeway

M

Papago 6

M

H

Humble Pie 18

10

o

Van Buren St.

u

e R

Park

l

39 n

Van B

a

uren St.

McKellips Rd.

Kai 45

h t

Washington

St.

Sky Harbor

ta

d

5

i

s

La Grande Orange Pizzeria 27

17

9

International Airport

n

t

3

27th A

t

202

143

o

River

.

MESA

Buckeye Rd.

r

85

10

Freeway

c

LON’s at the Hermosa 22

h

Salt

t

h

h t

S

202

r.

.

Los Sombreros 38

5

9

11

D

r

7

41

D

67t

5

m . .

b D

a

r

40

ul

MacAlpine’s Restaurant and Soda

k yp

University Dr.

.

.

o x

Fountain 6

e

t

h E

42

47

v

S

o

Apache Blvd.

Main St.

Malee's Thai on Main 34

Broadway Rd.

A

H

y Cr

Salt

River

10

TEMPE

t

y el

t.

.e

Broadway Rd.

nu

esa

p

The Mission 33

Rawhide Steakhouse 45

ve.

t.

v

o

M

at

46

Monti’s La Casa Vieja 41

Roaring Fork 30

.

ve.

t D

C

S

e

s

l A

101

v

l

Southern Ave.

eir

i

Nobuo at Teeter House 9

Rustler’s Rooste 44

M

Southern Ave.

h

32nd S

P

t

Superstition Freeway

43

48

noca 23

Sierra Bonita Grill 1

d A

7

60

60

r

l

24th S

North Fattoria Italiana 28

Stax Burger Bistro 31

3

Baseline

a

Rd.

4

rt

Baseline Rd.

n

Old Town Tortilla Factory 34

St. Francis 3

e

10

y

19th A

7th A

C

44

a

.

Organ Stop Pizza 48

.

The Stockyards Restaurant

w

d

Dobbins Rd.

e

Guadalupe

e

Rd.

The Original Blue Adobe Grille 47

v

e

& 1889 Saloon 39

r

.

.r

d

.

.

d.

F

R

e

d

Pane Bianco 4

T. Cook’s 20

v

e

Rd.

Elliot Rd.

y

Elliot Rd.

ci

l R

The Parlor 24

Ted’s Hot Dogs 46

a

r

o

P

o

R

w

h

Petite Maison 32

Tuck Shop 8

e

c

87

er

Pizzeria Bianco 9

Estrel a Dr.

Veneto Trattoria Italiana 18

PHOENIX SOUTH

k D

F Warner Rd. c

.

n

a

o

d

a A

n

'Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana 17

t A

MOUNTAIN PARK

p

t

o

n

e

s

Vincent on Camelback 29

o

n

s

i

o

e

1

c

Rural R

l

101

b

i

a S

zi

u

Quiessence 43

5

Vincent Market Bistro 29

45

r To Tucson

C

e R

o

a

c

c

D

m

49

Ray Rd.

i

l

r

Qc

Cooper

Rancho Pinot 16

Zinc Bistro 14

M

M

r

A

A

M

P

115

offers a view of the city lights. If you’ve got the kids with you, you’ll want to be sure to have dinner at one of the Valley’s “cowboy” steakhouses. These family-oriented restaurants feature Wild West decor, live cowboy music, and lots of

other fun entertainment.

Good places to go trolling for a place to eat include the trendy Biltmore

Fashion Park shopping center, at Camelback Road and 24th Street ( 602/955-

1963; www.shopbiltmore.com), and Old Town Scottsdale.

Scottsdale

EXPENSIVE

Citizen Public House

NEW AMERICAN Carnivores should be sure

to start a meal with the pork belly pastrami appetizer, although hopefully some-

one at your table will also order the chopped salad, which is made with Scottish

smoked salmon, crunchy kernels of corn, and a bunch of other great ingredients.

Moving on from there, you may have trouble making a decision. You might

4 encounter meatloaf made with Montenegro Amaro Italian liqueur, applewood-

smoked duck breast with creamy rosemary millet, porcini-rubbed filet mignon

with beech mushrooms, or short ribs made with a coffee rub (locally roasted, of

course). The cocktails here are the most creative in Scottsdale.

7111 E. Fifth Ave. http://citizenpublichouse.com. 480/398-4208. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$32. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 3–11pm.

e to Eat

Cowboy Ciao

SOUTHWESTERN/NEW AMERICAN Yee-ha, bam-

Wher bino, the food at this place beats the heck out of cowboy beans and deep-fried

rattlesnake. A fun, “cowboy chic” atmosphere and delicious food with a global

influence make a meal here unforgettable. You absolutely must start your meal

with the Stetson chopped salad; it’s both a work of art and an explosion of flavors

and textures. Other not-to-be-missed dishes include the exotic mushroom pan-

fry and the daily soup. Cowboy Ciao is also notable for its wine list and bar.

7133 E. Stetson Dr. (at 6th Ave.). www.cowboyciao.com. 480/946-3111. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$25 lunch, $13–$35 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–

2:30pm and 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–11pm.

deseo NUEVO LATINO Jaded palates and sleepy taste buds will thank

you profusely when you introduce them to the vibrant flavors on this restaurant’s

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

ceviche menu. Don’t bother trying to decide between rainbow ceviche (tuna,

hamachi, and salmon with white soy sauce, citrus juices, sesame seeds, and pick-led jalapeños) and lobster escabeche (with avocado, chives, and garlic chips); just order both. If you’re more in the mood for a hot appetizer, try the Kobe beef tenderloin with truffle aioli. If you’re like me, you’ll never make it past the appetizers list, but if you do, the grilled beef dishes are well worth trying.

Westin Kierland Resort, 6902 E. Greenway Pkwy. www.kierlandresort.com. 480/624-1202.

Reservations recommended. Main courses $27–$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 6–10pm.

Eddie’s House

NEW AMERICAN Eddie Matney has been one of my

favorite local chefs for more than 2 decades now, and here at his latest restaurant, he continues to dish up some of the best food the Valley has to offer. Although

this place has a glitzy facade, it’s all warm and homey inside, with photos of

Eddie’s family all around the dining room. Don’t-miss dishes include the Mo’

Rockin’ shrimp, which come with dough balls (simple and simply delicious) and

116

a spicy chili-beer dipping sauce. After this tasty starter, consider the perennially popular “What’s in this?” steak (tenderloin wrapped in Parmesan mashed potatoes), the bacon-infused meatloaf, or the diver scallops. All winners.

7042 E. Indian School Rd. www.eddieshouseaz.com. 480/946-1622. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm.

El Chorro Lodge NEW AMERICAN Built in 1934 as a girls school and

set on 11 acres of desert near Camelback Mountain, this Arizona landmark has

been a restaurant since 1937 and has one of the biggest and prettiest patios in

the Valley. Sunday brunch is among the most popular meals here, and the sticky

buns are one of the main reasons why. Luckily, those buns are served at dinner,

too, so you don’t have to wait until Sunday to enjoy them. Steaks, beef stroganoff,

trout almandine, and rack of lamb are perennial favorites here. Although this

restaurant has been around for decades, it’s been modernized with solar hot

water, photovoltaic panels, and other sustainable features.

5550 E. Lincoln Dr., Paradise Valley. www.elchorrolodge.com. 480/948-5170. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$49 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 9am–

3pm and 5–10pm.

4

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

elements

NEW AMERICAN Even though it has one of the best views

around and some of the best patio dining, elements, the stylish restaurant at the

Sanctuary Camelback Mountain resort, doesn’t try to slide by on looks alone; it

also serves great food. That said, the view is a big part of dinner here, so try to

time your reservation so that you can catch sunset. The menu changes regularly

and includes influences from around the world. On the appetizer menu, expect

the likes of ahi tuna tartare and fiery calamari with Chinese sausage and miso-

scallion vinaigrette. Entrees are equally wide-ranging in their culinary influences; the seasonal menu might include duck breast with candied turnips and mushroom ragout or scallops with lobster and chorizo risotto. If you’ll be eating inside, try to get one of the lower-level booths.

At Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort and Spa, 5700 E. McDonald Dr., Paradise Valley. www.

Wher

elementsrestaurant.com. 800/245-2051 or 480/948-2100. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $11–$23 lunch, $29–$48 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 7–10:30am, e to Eat

11:30am–2pm, and 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 7–10:30am, 11:30am–2pm, and 5:30–10pm; Sun 7am–

2pm and 5:30–9:30pm.

FnB

NEW AMERICAN This little hole-in-the-wall serves comfort food

so comforting that it was quickly voted the best new restaurant in town when it

opened. It’s not just that chef Charlene Badman has a way of transforming the

familiar into the fabulous, but she also sources ingredients locally whenever pos-

sible, which is partly why the menu here is always very short. Expect only four

entrees when you visit, but expect them all to be perfectly prepared. You might

order pasta with chanterelle mushrooms, bacon, tarragon, asiago cheese, and

crème fraîche, or you might have lamb tenderloin with cauliflower, dried figs,

mint, and za’atar (a savory blend of Middle Eastern herbs, sesame seeds, and

salt). There are always lots of interesting appetizers and salads as well, and

assembling a dinner of small plates (such as fried green tomatoes with green god-

dess dressing, crispy chickpeas with smoked paprika and lemon, or shishito pep-

pers with tahini and black sesame seeds) is encouraged.

7133 E. Stetson Dr. www.fnbrestaurant.com. 480/425-9463. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $21–$29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 5–10pm.

117

Rancho Pinot

NEW AMERICAN Rancho Pinot, hidden at the back of

a nondescript shopping center adjacent to the upscale Borgata shopping plaza,

combines a homey cowboy-chic decor with contemporary American cuisine, and

has long been a favorite with Scottsdale and Phoenix residents. Look elsewhere

if you crave wildly imaginative flavor combinations, but if you like simple, well-

prepared food, Rancho Pinot is a great choice. That said, the salads and starters

here can be surprisingly creative and surprisingly good. Keep an eye out for the

grilled squid-and-shrimp salad with preserved lemons. For an entree, you can

always count on the handmade pasta or Nonni’s chicken, braised with white

wine, mushrooms, and herbs. As much as possible, Rancho Pinot uses organic,

local produce, eggs, and dairy products.

In Lincoln Village Shops, 6208 N. Scottsdale Rd. (southwest corner of Scottsdale Rd. and Lincoln Dr.). www.ranchopinot.com. 480/367-8030. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–

$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm.

Roaring Fork SOUTHWESTERN This restaurant has been around for

4 years and still serves some of the most creative Southwestern fare in the Valley.

No meal here is complete without a starter of the green-chili pork stew and a side

of the green-chili macaroni and cheese. For your entree, try the delicious duck

breast with onion jam and sour-cherry mustard or the braised beef short ribs

made with Dr Pepper. If you can’t get a table, dine in the saloon or on the saloon

e to Eat

patio. Happy hour (Sun–Mon 4–10pm, Tues–Sat 4–7pm) is a good time for an

early meal from the saloon menu, actually worth eating from just so you can order

Wher the “big ass burger.” Wash it all down with a huckleberry margarita.

4800 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 1700 (at the corner of Chaparral Rd.). www.roaringfork.com.

480/947-0795. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $13–$28. AE, DC, DISC,

MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm.

MODERATE

Arcadia Farms NEW AMERICAN Long a favorite of the Scottsdale

ladies-who-lunch crowd, this Old Town restaurant features well-prepared con-

temporary fare. Try the delicious raspberry goat cheese salad with jicama and

candied pecans. The warm mushroom, spinach, and goat-cheese tart is another

winner. Try to get a seat on the shady patio.

7014 E. 1st Ave. www.arcadiafarmscafe.com. 480/941-5665. Reservations recommended.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Main courses $12–$16. AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–3pm.

Bandera AMERICAN Once you’ve gotten a whiff of the wood-roasted

chickens turning on the rotisseries in Bandera’s back-of-the-building, open-air

stone oven, you’ll know exactly what to order when you finally get a seat at this

popular spot in Old Town. What an aroma! The succulent spit-roasted chicken is

the meal to have here. Sure, you could order prime rib or barbecued salmon, but

you’d be a fool if you did. Stick with the chicken or maybe the pork ribs, and you

won’t go wrong.

3821 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.hillstone.com. 480/994-3524. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $11–$29. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 4:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 4:30–11pm.

Carlsbad Tavern NEW MEXICAN Carlsbad Tavern blends the fiery tastes

of New Mexican cuisine with a hip and humorous bat-theme atmosphere (a ref-

erence to Carlsbad Caverns). A lagoon makes this place feel like a beach bar,

while the patio fireplace is cozy on a cold night. The menu lists traditional New

118

Mexican dishes such as carne adovada (pork simmered in a fiery red-chili sauce), as well as contemporary Southwestern specialties such as crab-stuffed poblano

chilies and pasta with an unusual chipotle chicken stroganoff.

3313 N. Hayden Rd. (south of Osborn). www.carlsbadtavern.com. 480/970-8164. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2am (limited menu daily 10 or 11pm–2am).

5th and Wine NEW AMERICAN “Scottsdale” and “wine”—it’s hard to imag-

ine a more pretentious word pairing. So it came as a total shock when I sat down at

this casual wine bar/restaurant in downtown Scottsdale and was handed the most

reasonably priced wine list I have ever seen in a city known for serving glasses of

wine that cost as much as entrees at most restaurants. Pair your $7 glass of Italian sangiovese with some bruschetta, a burger, or perhaps a daily special of beef bourguignon. Between 3 and 6pm on weekdays, great happy hour deals abound.

7051 E. Fifth Ave. www.5thandwine.com. 480/699-8001. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11am–10pm.

Los Sombreros MEXICAN Although this casual Mexican restaurant is

4

in an attractive old house, it doesn’t look all that special from the outside. How-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

ever, the menu is surprisingly creative and veers from the standard dishes served

at most Mexican restaurants. Start with the chunky guacamole, which is some of

the best in the city. Be sure to order the chicken mole poblano or the puerco en chipotle, succulent, slow-roasted pork in tomatillo-chipotle sauce. Finish it all off with the flan, which will spoil you for flan anywhere else. For a real treat, get it with almond-flavored tequila. Unfortunately, service here can be slow.

2534 N. Scottsdale Rd. (at McKellips Rd.). www.lossombreros.com. 480/994-1799. Reservations accepted for 5 or more. Main courses $16–$21. DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 4–9pm; Fri–Sat 4–10pm.

Malee’s Thai on Main THAI While there are now upscale Asian restau-

rants all over the Valley, this was one of the first to move the spicy flavors of Asia out from under fluorescent lights and into a setting that would impress a date.

Wher

The decor is not as over the top as at the nearby P.F. Chang’s (which also got its

e to Eat

start here in Scottsdale), but it is certainly elegant for a Thai restaurant, an ideal place for lunch or dinner during a day of gallery hopping. Start with the creamy

tom ka gai and then be sure to try the spicy crispy fish or the tropical pineapple dish (seafood and chicken curry served in a half pineapple).

7131 E. Main St. www.maleesthaibistro.com. 480/947-6042. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $10–$21. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9 or 9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun noon–9pm.

The Mission NUEVO LATINO With its Spanish colonial decor and back-

lit wall of salt blocks, this downtown Scottsdale restaurant melds old-world decor

and cuisine with a modern aesthetic. Taking its name from the historic adobe

mission church next door, the Mission is a good bet for lunch or dinner. I like to

get a few appetizers and a drink and call it a meal. Try the duck carnitas empana-das, the pineapple-glazed pork shoulder tacos, or the Peruvian clam stew. The fries here should not be missed. The bar emphasizes its extensive tequila selection and makes a great margarita. If the weather is good, try to get a seat on the

small patio out front. Every Sunday starting at 11am, they serve a whole roast pig;

you won’t want to miss this feast.

119

3815 N. Brown Ave. www.themissionaz.com. 480/636-5005. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9–$23 lunch, $12–$32 dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat

11am–11pm.

Old Town Tortilla Factory MEXICAN Located in an old house surrounded

by attractive patios and citrus trees that bloom in winter and spring, this moderately priced Mexican restaurant has a great atmosphere, good food, and a lively bar scene

(with more than 120 premium tequilas). As you enter the restaurant grounds, you

might even see someone making fresh tortillas, which come in two dozen different

flavors. The rich tortilla soup and the tequila-lime salad make good starters. For an entree, try the pork chop topped with ancho chili–raspberry sauce.

6910 E. Main St. www.oldtowntortillafactory.com. 480/945-4567. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $15–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

Petite Maison FRENCH With barely a handful of tables inside (and

4 about the same number outside on the patio), this little house of a restaurant

truly lives up to its French moniker. Pine paneling on the walls and ceiling give

the dining room the feel of a cozy alpine cabin, the absolute antithesis of Scotts-

dale hip. The menu is short and sticks to such French bistro classics as onion

soup, beef tartare, escargot de Bourgogne, steak frites, and bouillabaisse. For

dessert, the soufflé is a must.

e to Eat

7216 E. Shoeman Lane. www.petitemaisonaz.com. 480/991-6887. Reservations recommen-

ded. Main courses $24–$32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Wed and Sun 5–10pm; Thurs–Sat Wher 5pm–midnight.

Veneto Trattoria Italiana ITALIAN This pleasantly low-key trattoria,

specializing in the cuisine of Venice, serves satisfying “peasant food,” including

traditional pork-and-garlic sausages served with grilled polenta and braised savoy

cabbage. Baccala mantecato (creamy fish mousse on grilled polenta, made with dried salt cod soaked overnight in milk) may sound unusual, but it’s absolutely

heavenly. Other good bets include the salad of thinly sliced smoked beef, shaved

Parmesan, and arugula. For a finale, try the semifreddo, a partially frozen meringue.

There’s a welcoming bistro ambience and outdoor seating on the patio.

In Hilton Village, 6137 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.venetotrattoria.com. 480/948-9928. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$21 lunch, $15–$26 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm.

Zinc Bistro FRENCH It may seem incongruous to find a French bistro

in sunny Scottsdale, and in a modern outdoor shopping center at that, but here

it is. This place is a perfect reproduction of the sort of bistro you may have loved on your last trip to Paris. Everything is authentic, from the zinc bar to the sidewalk cafe seating to the hooks under the bar for ladies’ purses. Try the moules

marinieres or the crab-and-truffle omelet, both of which come with addictive shoestring potatoes. Steak eaters should be sure to try the melt-in-your-mouth

sous vide steak, which is cooked for hours in a vacuum bag. For dessert, there is decadent chocolate soufflé.

In Kierland Commons, 15034 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.zincbistroaz.com. 480/603-0922.

Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$16 lunch, $18–$36 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Daily 11am–10pm.

120

INEXPENSIVE

El Molino Mexican Café MEXICAN Located a bit out of the Old Town

Scottsdale mainstream, this Mexican joint is little more than a fast-food place,

but it serves the best chimichangas (a deep-fried burrito) in town. The chimis

here have crispy, light shells and are packed with tasty fillings. Try one with

machaca (shredded and spiced beef) or green-chili beef, and I’m sure you’ll

become a convert. If fried food just doesn’t do it for you, opt for a couple of green corn tamales, an Arizona specialty.

3554 N. Goldwater Blvd. www.elmolinocafe.com. 480/994-3566. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $3–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm.

Frank & Lupe’s MEXICAN On the same street as some of Scottsdale’s

top contemporary art galleries, this casual Mexican restaurant is a welcome

throwback to the days when Scottsdale was still a real cow town. Friends of mine

who have been eating here for years insist the only dish to get is the carne ado-bada burrito plate served enchilada style (smothered in a spicy red sauce). I have to agree. If at all possible, eat on the back patio; it feels so much like a restaurant 4

patio in Mexico that you’ll be shocked to find you’re still in Scottsdale at the end of your meal.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

4121 N. Marshall Way. www.frankandlupes.com. 480/990-9844. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $8–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

Grazie Pizzeria Winebar PIZZA This little neighborhood pizzeria is in

downtown Scottsdale at the west end of Main Street near the Valley Ho resort

and is a little gem of a place. It’s also very popular on weekends, and the noise

level can be deafening. Come on a weeknight or for lunch if you want to carry on

a conversation without shouting. The weekend buzz aside, this is a great place to

sip Italian wines and share a couple of designer pizzas from the wood-fired oven.

Start your meal with the carpaccio di bresaola, which is served with arugula, parmigiano-reggiano cheese, and a lemon vinaigrette; or a salad made with arugula,

baby greens, parmigiano-reggiano, red onions, red bell peppers, and pine nuts.

Wher

The pizzas here have paper-thin crusts, which will help you save room for the

signature ice-cream calzone.

e to Eat

6952 E. Main St. www.grazie.us. 480/663-9797. Reservations recommended Fri–Sat nights.

Main courses $10–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

Humble Pie PIZZA I know, I know, pizza is such a guilty pleasure that even on

vacation you find yourself craving it. So, if you’re staying at one of the resorts along Scottsdale Road and the urge suddenly strikes, head to this classy pizza place. The

only thing humble here is the name. The menu lists almost two dozen designer piz-

zas, including some of my personal favorites such as one made with local sausage,

housemade mozzarella, and roasted fennel and another with prosciutto, pears, and

Gorgonzola. Humble Pie is a bit more upscale than your average pizza joint, so you

might want to dress up a bit. There are other Humble Pies in north Phoenix in the

Desert Ridge Market Place, 21050 N. Tatum Blvd. ( 480/502-2121) and in

central Phoenix at 2333 N. Seventh St. ( 602/229-1289).

In Hilton Village, 6149 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.humblepieusa.com. 480/556-9900. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8.50–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun

11am–9pm.

121

’Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana PIZZA This cozy pizzeria in the beautiful Bor-

gata shopping center, which was inspired by Tuscany’s fabled town of San Gimi-

gnano, was the first pizzeria in the Phoenix area to be certified as adhering to the strict Neapolitan pizza-making regulations set down by the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association. These regulations govern all aspects of the pizza making pro-

cess from the type of tomatoes and flour used to the type and temperature of the

pizza oven. What this means for you the diner is that the pizzas served here are

as authentic as any you can find in Italy, and are just as delicious. In addition to the many traditional pizzas, there are a few panini and lots of Italian deserts.

In the Borgata of Scottsdale shopping center, 6166 N. Scottsdale Rd., no. 701. www.pomopizzeria.

com. 480/998-1366. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$17. AE, DC, DISC,

MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Stax Burger Bistro AMERICAN The retro-style molded white-plastic

chairs and the front-and-center bar might have you thinking this is some sort of

hipster hangout, but you couldn’t be more wrong. Stax is just a burger joint with

4 style. The burgers are served slider style, which means they’re small. You’ll need to order two or three plus a side of fries to make a full meal, but, when you see

all the cool burgers on the menu, you’ll be glad you get to order several. There are wagyu beef burgers, turkey burgers, buffalo burgers, and even exotic burgers

(maybe ostrich on the night you’re there). You can also build your own burgers

e to Eat

with toppings that include buffalo mozzarella and various aiolis.

4400 N. Scottsdale Rd., no. 12. www.staxburgerbistro.com. 480/946-4222. Reservations not Wher accepted. Main courses $3–$7. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

North Scottsdale, Carefree & Cave Creek

VERY EXPENSIVE

Binkley’s

NEW AMERICAN Foodies up on the latest trends in

molecular gastronomy (the merger of science and cooking) will want to make

sure they have at least one meal at this astonishing little restaurant in Cave

Creek. Utterly unpretentious yet sophisticated enough to hold its own with the

finest restaurants in the world, Binkley’s is the sort of place people plan a vaca-

tion around. Every dish here is a work of art, and unexpected flavor combinations

and presentations are the rule. Chef Kevin Binkley likes to leave his customers

marveling at the meal they’ve just had. For the most enjoyable experience, opt for

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

a four-, five-, or six-course tasting menu, which might include venison carpaccio,

a lobster fritter, grouper in parchment, chicken cordon bleu with black truffle,

and a caramel parfait.

6920 E. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek. www.binkleysrestaurant.com. 480/437-1072. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $41–$45; tasting menus $72–$96 ($112–$146 with wine). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–9:30pm.

Bourbon Steak

STEAK This posh steakhouse from celebrated chef

Michael Mina is one of the Valley’s best and most expensive restaurants. If you

have an appreciation for lobster and foie gras, then you’ll be glad this restaurant

is here. For a delicious twist on an old favorite, try the lobster pot pie. Obviously, however, steaks are the thing here. Keep in mind that the steaks are served a la

carte, and there are lots of tempting side dishes and accompaniments. How

about some truffled macaroni and cheese or roasted marrow bones to accompany

your main dish?

122

At the Fairmont Scottsdale, 7575 E. Princess Dr. (about 12 miles north of downtown Scottsdale).

www.michaelmina.net. 480/513-6002. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses

$29–$85. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm.

EXPENSIVE

Sassi

ITALIAN If you’ve had to forego this year’s vacation in Italy, then

don’t miss an opportunity to have a meal at this Tuscan villa transplanted to the

Arizona desert. Every room in this beautiful, sprawling building is gorgeous and

has a distinctive character of its own. The menu is not your standard southern

Italian menu, so don’t go looking for spaghetti and meatballs (although you might

find a delicious orecchiette with sausage or pork-and-veal meatballs in broth).

Instead, try some pan-seared sea scallops or lamb shank braised in red wine. In

fact, the best thing to do here is

order a bunch of dishes and then

share everything, as any good Ital-

Backyard Bounty

ian family would.

If you happen to be in Phoenix in the late

10455 E. Pinnacle Peak Pkwy., Scottsdale.

winter or early spring, watch for roadside

4

www.sassi.biz. 480/502-9095. Reser-

signs advertising fresh citrus fruit. Many

vations highly recommended. Main homeowners throughout the city have

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

courses $24–$38; 3-course menu $45

orange and grapefruit trees in their yards

($70 with wine). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

and often sell (or even give away) the fruit

Sun and Tues–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat

from the trees.

5:30–10pm.

MODERATE

Café Bink

NEW AMERICAN This casual spinoff from the legendary

Binkley’s over in Cave Creek is my favorite lunch spot in Carefree. The menu

skillfully blends well prepared comfort foods such as corned beef and cabbage,

bacon-wrapped meatloaf, and chicken pot pie, with more foodie-friendly offer-

ings such as a bacon-and-date tart, country pâté, and wild-mushroom soup. The

French onion soup is a good bet for a starter, and Amy’s Bolognese is a local favor-

Wher

ite. If you’ve got expensive tastes but can’t get a table at Binkley’s, go ahead and order the foie gras slider here at Café Bink. As much as possible, ingredients are

e to Eat

organic and local.

36889 N. Tom Darlington Dr., Carefree. www.cafebink.com. 480/488-9796. Reservations accepted only for 5 or more. Main courses $9–$24 lunch, $17–$29 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue BARBECUE Cave Creek loves to play

up its cowboy character, and nothing says “cowboy grub” quite like smoked

meats. This little barbecue joint gets you in the cowboy mood with Western

movie posters and old Hollywood Western movies projected on the wall. There’s

even a guitar on the wall with a sign that says play me. Just don’t pick up the gui-

tar until you’re done with your half rack of pork ribs or ribs and beef brisket

combo. Don’t despair if there’s a vegetarian in your group; Bryan’s has a “pulled”

squash sandwich on the menu.

6130 E. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek. www.bryansbarbecue.com. 480/575-7155. Reserva-

tions not accepted. Main courses $7–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–8pm.

123

Greasewood Flat AMERICAN Burgers and beer are the mainstays at

this rustic open-air restaurant in the Pinnacle Peak area of north Scottsdale.

Located down a potholed gravel road behind Reata Pass steakhouse, Greasewood

Flat is a desert party spot where families, motorcycle clubs, cyclists, and horse-

back riders all rub shoulders. Place your order at the window and grab a seat at

one of the picnic tables. While you wait for your meal, you can check out the old

farm equipment. This place is the antithesis of Scottsdale posh, and that’s exactly

why I love it. Only in Arizona could you find a place like this.

27375 N. Alma School Pkwy., Scottsdale. www.greasewoodflat.net. 480/585-9430. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4–$8.25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–

Sat 11am–11pm.

The Camelback Corridor & Biltmore District

EXPENSIVE

Chelsea’s Kitchen NEW AMERICAN Although this restaurant can

4 seem a bit expensive for what you get, the setting, on the banks of a canal just a block off Camelback Road, is gorgeous. The patio, with a wood-burning fireplace, is nearly as large as the dining room and is where you should try to get a

table. Sunsets can be unforgettable. Separating the dining room and patio is a

fun indoor-outdoor bar. Under the same ownership as the nearby La Grande

Orange Pizzeria and Postino wine bar, Chelsea’s Kitchen features a menu of

e to Eat

familiar comfort foods with a few more creative dishes thrown into the mix. The

seasonal salads are usually a good choice, as are the fish tacos, but it’s the fried Wher chicken and the short ribs that keep people coming back.

5040 N. 40th St. www.chelseaskitchenaz.com. 602/957-2555. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $12–$27. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 10am–9pm.

Coup des Tartes

COUNTRY FRENCH Chain restaurants, theme

restaurants, restaurants that are all style and little substance: Sometimes in

Phoenix it seems impossible to find a homey little hole in the wall that serves

good food. Don’t despair; Coup des Tartes is just the ticket. With barely a dozen

tables and no liquor license (bring your own wine; $10 corkage fee), it’s about as

removed from the standard Phoenix glitz as you can get without boarding a plane

and leaving town. Start your meal with pâté de campagne or the scrumptious brie brûlée, which is covered with caramelized apples. The Moroccan lamb shank is

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

a long-time favorite here, and the filet mignon is also good. For dessert, you sim-

ply must have a tart. As often as possible, organic and local produce is used, as is wild-caught fish and naturally raised meat.

4626 N. 16th St. (a couple blocks south of Camelback Rd.). www.nicetartes.com. 602/212-1082. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$15 lunch, $18–$33 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon 11am–2pm; Tues–Thurs 11am–2pm and 5:30–10pm; Fri 11am–2pm and 5:30–11pm; Sat

5:30–11pm; Sun 10am–2pm.

LON’s at the Hermosa NEW AMERICAN In a beautiful old adobe

hacienda built by cowboy artist Lon Megargee and surrounded by colorful gar-

dens, this restaurant is one of the most classically Arizonan places in the Phoenix

area, and the patio, with its view of Camelback Mountain, is blissfully tranquil.

Lunch or a sunset dinner on the patio is a highlight of a Phoenix vacation. At

lunch, start out with some fry bread, perhaps accompanied by house-made

salami and move on to a mixed grill or a delicious burger. At dinner, be sure to

124

start with the salt-seared ahi tuna, which is cooked on a block of hot rock salt. For an entree, the mesquite-glazed duck breast with a mesquite crepe is distinctly

southwestern. Dishes often include herbs grown in the restaurant’s own garden,

and other ingredients are, as much as possible, from ecologically sound sources.

At the Hermosa Inn, 5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd. www.lons.com. 602/955-7878. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$18 lunch, $26–$70 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–10am, 11:30am–2pm, and 5:30–10pm; Sat–Sun 7am–2pm and 5:30–10pm.

noca

NEW AMERICAN Self-confessed foodie Eliott Wexler hit on

something Phoenix was craving when he opened noca—casual fine dining that

incorporates the latest trends in molecular gastronomy and upscale comfort

foods. The menu here is a foodie’s dream come true. You might start with lobster

soup or an autumn squash salad made with cauliflower and crispy kale. Entrees

might include skate wing with Marcona almond puree or braised pork shoulder

with Asian pears and grits. If you can resist the duo of doughnuts with mouth-

watering dipping sauces, you have far more willpower than I. On Sunday nights,

there is a simple supper menu for $35.

3118 E. Camelback Rd. www.restaurantnoca.com. 602/956-6622. Reservations highly recom-4

mended. Main courses $15–$39; tasting menus $50–$65 ($73–$94 with wine). AE, DISC, MC, V.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Tues–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 5:30–10pm; Sun 5:30–9pm (Dec–Mar, also Mon 5:30–10pm).

T. Cook’s

MEDITERRANEAN Ready to pop the question? On your

honeymoon? Celebrating an anniversary? This is the place for you. There isn’t a

more romantic restaurant in the Valley. Located within the walls of the Mediter-

ranean-inspired Royal Palms Resort and Spa, it’s surrounded by decades-old gar-

dens and even has palm trees growing right through the roof of the dining room.

The focal point of the open kitchen is a wood-fired oven that turns out a fabulous

wood-oven chicken as well as an impressive platter of paella. T. Cook’s continues

to make big impressions right through to the dessert course.

At the Royal Palms Resort and Spa, 5200 E. Camelback Rd. www.royalpalmshotel.com. 602/

808-0766. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $11–$16 lunch, $26–$53 dinner.

Wher

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–2pm and 5:30–10pm.

e to Eat

Vincent on Camelback

SOUTHWESTERN Vincent is a Phoenix bas-

tion of Southwestern cuisine and has long enjoyed a devoted local following. The

menu blends Southwestern influences with classic European dishes, and while

there are plenty of delicious traditional dishes on the menu, if you’re from outside the region, you should stick with Southwestern flavors. The menu changes daily,

but among the appetizers, the duck tamale is perennially popular (if it’s not on

the menu, try the lobster chimichanga). For an entree, you might opt for grilled

wild boar with parsnip puree and habanero sauce or lobster and sea scallops with

roasted corn. For dessert, it’s hard to beat the tequila soufflé. For a casual breakfast or lunch, try the attached Vincent Market Bistro (see below).

3930 E. Camelback Rd. www.vincentsoncamelback.com. 602/224-0225. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $26–$36 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–9 or 10pm.

MODERATE

The Grind AMERICAN I’ve had burgers that looked like coal, but this is the

only place I’ve ever had a burger that was cooked in a coal-fired oven. It may

sound a bit Dickensian to cook with coal, but, trust me, the 1,000° oven here

does great things for burgers (and other meats, too). Tucked into an unassuming

125

little shopping center along the south side of Camelback Road, the Grind is basi-

cally a bar with a short list of well-prepared burgers and sandwiches. The beef

and chicken are hormone-free, and the vegetables are locally grown and organic

as much as possible.

3961 E. Camelback Rd. www.thegrindaz.com. 602/954-7463. Main courses $8–$17. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

La Grande Orange Pizzeria PIZZA Good pizza and an off-the-beaten-tour-

ist-path neighborhood location make this casual restaurant a good place to feel

like a local. Best of all, La Grande Orange is convenient to both downtown Scott-

sdale and the pricey Camelback corridor. Gourmet pizzas are what this place is

all about, but you should be sure to start with the orange-fennel salad or one of

the other great salads. While you’re here, check out the adjacent La Grande

Orange gourmet grocery (great for stocking a picnic).

4410 N. 40th St. (at Campbell Ave.). www.lagrandeorangepizzeria.com. 602/840-7777.

Reservations not accepted. Main courses $11–$14. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 4–10pm; Fri–Sun 4 11am–10pm.

North Fattoria Italiana ITALIAN Housed in a former car wash that feels

like a converted barn, North is boisterous, bustling, and convivial. The menu

includes a short list of wonderful pizzas that come out of the wood oven with

bubbly brown crusts. If you’re not in the mood for pizza, at least be sure to get

e to Eat

something from the wood oven. Peruse the antipasti list for such tasty dishes as

romanesco cauliflower with olive oil and golden raisins– yum! There’s also a good

Wher panzanella-style house salad. Don’t miss the zucca chips—tiny slices of crispy

fried zucchini. Be sure to save room for some bombolini (Italian donuts).

4925 N. 40th St. http://foxrc.com/north_fattoria_italiana.html. 602/324-5600. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $9–$18 lunch, $14–$26 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–

10pm; Fri 11am–11pm; Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm.

The Parlor PIZZA I love this bustling pizza parlor both for its tasty pizzas

and for its hip, warehouselike setting. Vegetable and herb gardens line the side-

walk as you approach the front door, and lots of recycled wood has been used in

the interior decor. The menu includes lots of great house pizzas. My favorite is

the salsiccia (sausage) pizza, which is prepared with a local sausage that’s custom-made for the Parlor. There are also a few sandwiches and some great salads,

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

including a steak salad and one made with roasted beets. Unless you sit in one of

the barber chairs at the counter, you’d probably never guess that this space once

housed a beauty parlor.

1916 E. Camelback Rd. www.theparlor.us. 602/248-2480. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $9.50–$23. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

St. Francis

NEW AMERICAN With its brick walls, loft dining room,

unusual exposed-beam ceiling, and underlit onyx bar, St. Francis is hip without

being pretentious. It’s the sort of place you’d expect to find in any major city, but which is surprisingly hard to find in Phoenix. Packed into this compact space just

off Central Avenue, you’ll find a patio and outdoor bar, a copper counter overlook-

ing the kitchen, and a couple of dining rooms. Nearly everything on the menu is

either cooked in the restaurant’s wood-fired oven or has ingredients that have

been roasted in the big wood oven. That includes the wonderful rustic bread

that’s stacked on the counter, as well as the green-chili pork stew and the roasted

chicken. Families take note: kids eat for free here.

126

111 E. Camelback Rd. www.stfrancisaz.com. 602/200-8111. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9–$20 lunch, $12–$25 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri 11am–11pm; Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 9am–9pm.

Sierra Bonita Grill SOUTHWESTERN This neighborhood restaurant is

the sort of place you dream about finding—flavorful food, big portions, moderate

prices. What’s not to like? Well, it is a bit off the usual tourist route, but don’t let that scare you. Start with the guacamole and the bacon-wrapped shrimp, and

then maybe order the same thing again. Then, do not pass up the buttermilk

chicken with the heavenly mashed chipotle sweet potatoes. The space is dark

and a bit rustic, with a ranch feel and cowboy art on the walls.

6933 N. 7th St. www.sierrabonitagrill.com. 602/264-0700. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$29. AE, MC, V. Mon 11am–9pm; Tues–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 10am–9pm.

Vincent Market Bistro

FRENCH Located in back of the ever-popular

Vincent’s restaurant, this casual restaurant does a respectable job of conjuring up

a casual back-street bistro in Paris. It’s quaint without being froufrou. The Bistro stays packed on Saturday mornings when Vincent’s farmers’ market attracts 4

crowds of shoppers in search of gourmet snacks and fresh produce. Be sure to

order the coq au vin. You can also get great dinners to go.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

3930 E. Camelback Rd. www.vincentsoncamelback.com. 602/224-3727. Main courses

$7–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–8pm; Sun 7am–2pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Delux AMERICAN With a sleek and stylish decor, a very limited menu

(you’d better like burgers), and one of the best selections of draft beers in the

Valley, this is the ultimate ultrahip burger-and-beer joint. The burgers get my vote for best burgers in the city, but it’s the cute Barbie-size shopping carts full of

crispy french fries that are the real reason to dine here. Talk about your guilty

pleasures—it just doesn’t get much better than a cart of fries and a pint of Old

Rasputin imperial stout. If you’re not a fan of burgers, don’t despair; there are

Wher

great salads and a few nonbeef sandwiches.

In the Biltmore Plaza, 3146 E. Camelback Rd. www.deluxburger.com. 602/522-2288. Reser-e to Eat

vations not accepted. Main courses $6.50–$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2am.

Central & Downtown Phoenix

EXPENSIVE

Nobuo at Teeter House

JAPANESE In this little Craftsman bunga-

low on downtown Phoenix’s Heritage Square, James Beard–award-winner Nobuo

Fukuda serves his distinctive style of Japanese food. The menu lists barely more

than a dozen dishes, so it’s almost impossible to go wrong here. Not one of these

dishes can really be considered sushi, so don’t show up expecting to get a Cali-

fornia roll. Instead, consider the shiromi (white-fish) carpaccio or house-cured salmon. The lunch menu includes many of the same dishes served at dinner,

including the okonomiyaki (a sort of savory pancake made with pork and sea-

food), which is one of my favorite dishes here.

At Heritage Square, 622 E. Adams St. www.nobuofukuda.com. 602/254-0600. Reservations recommended. Small plates $10–$24; tasting menu (Fri–Sat only) $40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

Tues–Sun 11am–4pm and 5:30–9 or 10pm.

127

The Stockyards Restaurant & 1889 Saloon STEAK In business for

more than 60 years, this steakhouse is on the site of what was once the largest

cattle feed lot in the world. Although you’ll no longer find steaks on the hoof out-

side the restaurant’s back door, you will still find plenty of steaks and prime rib on the menu. Sure you can get corn meal–crusted trout, shrimp scampi, or a double-thick stuffed pork chop, but you’d be missing the whole point of eating here. This

place is an old school classic sure to satisfy confirmed carnivores. The saloon is a Wild West classic, with a gorgeous hand-carved mahogany back bar. Don’t miss it.

5009 E. Washington St. www.stockyardssteakhouse.com. 602/273-7378. Reservations

recommended. Main courses $8–$60 lunch, $22–$65 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–

2pm and 5–9pm; Sat 5–9pm; Sun 5–8pm.

MODERATE

Alice Cooper’stown BARBECUE Owned by Alice Cooper himself, this

sports-and-rock-themed restaurant/bar is downtown’s premier eat-o-tainment

center. Sixteen video screens (usually showing sporting events) are the center-

4 piece, but there’s also an abundance of memorabilia, including guitars once used

by the likes of Eric Clapton. The waitstaff even wears Alice Cooper makeup.

Barbecue is served in various permutations, including a huge barbecue sand-

wich, but the restaurant’s most fabled dish is its 1-pound, 22-inch-long “Big

Unit” hot dog. If you’re an Alice Cooper fan, or hope to spot some local pro ath-

e to Eat

letes, this place is a must.

101 E. Jackson St. www.alicecooperstown.com. 602/253-7337. Reservations accepted only Wher for parties of 7 or more. Sandwiches/barbecue $8–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri 11am–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun (football season only) 9:30am–5pm.

Beckett’s Table NEW AMERICAN On the edge of the trendy Arcadia

neighborhood, Beckett’s Table is a great place for upscale yet reasonably priced

comfort food. You can start with a trio of local sausages and creamy grits (that’s

polenta to you foodies) or a starter-size grilled cheese sandwich made with panc-

etta (that’s bacon to you nonfoodies). Feeling famished after a long hard day of

having fun on your vacation? Opt for the chicken and dumplings, which are

made with an herbed, saffron cream sauce. Mac and cheese, skillet chicken,

burgers, short ribs—all those familiar comfort foods are here. However, you’ll

also find wood-oven roasted mussels, pork osso buco confit, and beouf bourgui-PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

gnon shepherd’s pie. This place is off the tourist track, so you’ll be dining with in-the-know locals.

3717 E. Indian School Rd. www.beckettstable.com. 602/954-1700. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$19. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm.

Pizzeria Bianco PIZZA It’s not often that a pizza place ranks as one of the

most famous restaurants in a city, but this little downtown hole in the wall is

exactly that. Owner Chris Bianco has a huge reputation both here in the Valley

and across the nation. That’s why you’re going to have to wait and wait and wait

to get a seat here. When you finally get seated, you can judge for yourself whether

the rustic, brick-oven pizzas are worth the wait. I’m a fan (my personal favorite is made with red onion, Parmesan, rosemary, and crushed pistachios), but I’m not

convinced these pizzas are really as good as the line out the door would suggest.

You can ease the pain of the wait by going next door to Bar Bianco (p. 148).

At Heritage Sq., 623 E. Adams St. www.pizzeriabianco.com. 602/258-8300. Reservations accepted for 6–10 people. Pizzas $12–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm.

128

Tuck Shop AMERICAN Set in the quiet Coronado residential neighbor-

hood a few blocks east of Seventh Street, this little gem of a restaurant is a bit

hard to find but well worth searching out. Housed in a 1950s building and deco-

rated in vintage Scandinavian modern style, Tuck Shop feels both hip and casual.

You can show up in jeans and just have a drink and some appetizers or get dressed

up and make a night of it. The menu leans toward small plates and shareable

dishes with lots of comfort foods, including macaroni and cheese with prosciutto

and a delicious citrus-brined fried chicken served with cheddar-cheese waffles.

The Medjool dates stuffed with local chorizo sausage should not be missed.

2245 N. 12th St. www.tuckinphx.com. 602/354-2980. Reservations accepted for parties of 6

or more. Main courses $16–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–10pm.

INEXPENSIVE

America’s Taco Shop MEXICAN In a little yellow bungalow in central

Phoenix, you’ll find some of the best carne asada (grilled beef strips) in the city.

Here at America’s (named for the owner, not the country), you can get carne

asada tacos, carne asada burritos, carne asada torta (sandwiches), and carne 4

asada quesadillas. You get the picture? Carne asada is the name of the game here.

Wash yours down with a huge glass of jamaica (hibiscus tea), horchata (rice milk PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

with cinnamon), or tamarindo (a tart drink made from the pod of the tamarind tree). Other America’s locations include 4447 N. Seventh Ave. ( 602/515-0856) in Phoenix, and 735 E. University Dr. ( 480/751-6250) in Tempe.

2041 N. 7th St. www.americastacoshop.net. 602/682-5627. Main courses $2.25–$8. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 7:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 7:30am–10pm; Sun 10am–9pm.

Fry Bread House NATIVE AMERICAN Fry bread is just what it

sounds like—fried bread—and it’s a mainstay on Indian reservations throughout

the West. Although you can eat these thick, chewy slabs of fried bread plain,

salted, or with honey, they also serve as the wrappers for Indian tacos, which are

made with meat, beans, and lettuce. If you’ve already visited the Four Corners

region of Arizona, then you’ve probably had an Indian taco or two. Forget them—

Wher

the ones here are the best in the state. Try one with green chili. If you still have room for dessert, do not miss the fry bread with chocolate and butter.

e to Eat

4140 N. 7th Ave. 602/351-2345. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4.25–$7.75.

DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10am–8pm; Fri–Sat 10am–9pm.

MacAlpine’s Restaurant and Soda Fountain AMERICAN This is the

oldest operating soda fountain in the Southwest, and it hasn’t changed much

since its opening in 1928. Wooden booths and worn countertops show the patina

of age. Big burgers and sandwiches make up the lunch offerings and should be

washed down with a root beer float, chocolate malt, or egg cream.

2303 N. 7th St. www.macalpines1928.com. 602/262-5545. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches/specials $4.75–$8. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–8pm.

Pane Bianco LIGHT FARE/PIZZA Chris Bianco, owner of downtown’s

immensely popular Pizzeria Bianco (discussed earlier), also operates this sand-

wich shop and pizzeria. At lunch, the menu consists of only four sandwiches and

a couple of salads, but all the breads are baked on the premises in a wood-fired

oven. The housemade mozzarella is exquisitely fresh and is served both as a cap-

rese salad with tomatoes and basil and in a sandwich with the same ingredients.

Because of its location, Pane Bianco is a good lunch choice before or after a visit

129

to the Heard Museum. At night, you can get that same great pizza that’s served

downtown at Pizzeria Bianco.

4404 N. Central Ave. www.pizzeriabianco.com. 602/234-2100. Reservations not accepted.

Sandwiches and salads $8.50–$9.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm.

Tempe & South Phoenix

EXPENSIVE

Quiessence

NEW AMERICAN You won’t find your typical Phoenix/

Scottsdale dining experience here, and that’s exactly why I love it. Quiessence is

set at the back of a shady pecan grove not far from South Mountain Park and is

surrounded by organic vegetable gardens. These gardens, and the freshness of

the ingredients they provide, are what makes the food here so wonderful, and the

delightfully rural setting is what makes Quiessence truly special. Fresh, seasonal

ingredients are the rule here, so the menu changes often. Be sure to start your

meal with the Chef Spread, a platter of cheeses, terrines, and housemade salami.

4 6106 S. 32nd St. www.quiessencerestaurant.com. 602/276-0601. Reservations recommended. Main courses $36–$49 dinner; prix-fixe menu $79–$95 ($124–$140 with wine). AE, MC, V.

Tues–Sat 5–9pm. Closed July.

MODERATE

House of Tricks NEW AMERICAN Despite the name, you’ll find far

e to Eat

more treats here than tricks. Housed in a pair of old Craftsman bungalows sur-

rounded by a garden of shady trees, this restaurant seems a world away from the

Wher bustle on nearby Mill Avenue. This is a nice spot for a romantic evening and a

good place to try some innovative cuisine. The garlicky Caesar salad and the

house-smoked salmon with avocado, capers, red onion, and lemon cream are

good bets for starters. Entrees change regularly, but the menu usually includes

plenty of dishes inspired by the Mediterranean, Asia, and the Southwest. Try to

get a seat on the grape-arbor-covered patio.

114 E. 7th St., Tempe. www.houseoftricks.com. 480/968-1114. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $8.50–$13 lunch, $22–$34 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm.

Monti’s La Casa Vieja AMERICAN If you’re tired of the Scottsdale glitz

and are looking for Old Arizona, try this sprawling steakhouse. The adobe build-

ing was constructed in 1873 ( casa vieja means “old house” in Spanish) on the site PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

of the Salt River ferry, which operated in the days when the river flowed year-

round. Today, local families know Monti’s well and rely on the restaurant for solid

meals and low prices. The dark dining rooms are filled with memorabilia of the

Old West.

100 S. Mill Ave. (at Rio Salado Pkwy.), Tempe. www.montis.com. 480/967-7594. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $7–$15 lunch, $11–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–

Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Café Lalibela ETHIOPIAN If you’ve never had Ethiopian food, this casual

and inexpensive restaurant near the Arizona State University campus is a good

place to give it a try. The various stews, many of which are quite spicy, are eaten

with pieces of a traditional Ethiopian crepelike bread called injera. For the best introduction to this flavorful cuisine, try the “Lalibela Exclusive” platter, which

130

Forbidden City in the Desert

So you’re driving along the Loop 202

668 N. 44th St. ( 602/273-7268; www.

freeway near Sky Harbor Airport and this

phxchinatown.com). This fascinating

strange mirage materializes. You think

complex includes several Chinese restau-

you’re seeing a mall-size complex of

rants, gift shops, and an Asian supermar-

classical Chinese buildings. You are! It’s

ket. There’s also a Chinese garden with

the COFCO Chinese Cultural Center,

numerous traditional viewing pavilions.

feeds three and comes with a dozen different dishes. There are lots of meatless

dishes on the menu, so this is a good choice for vegetarians.

849 W. University Dr., Tempe. www.cafelalibela.com. 480/829-1939. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $4.75–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri 11am–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–9pm.

Carolina’s MEXICAN Located in a somewhat run-down neighborhood 4

south of the US Airways Center and Chase Field, Carolina’s is a Phoenix institu-

tion. As such you’ll find everyone from Hispanic construction workers to down-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

town corporate types (men in suits, women in high heels and pearls). Everyone

enjoys the down-home Mexican cooking here, but Carolina’s flour tortillas are

what really set this place apart. Order a burrito, perhaps with shredded beef in a

spicy green sauce, and you’ll be handed what feels like a down-filled pillow, so

soft you’ll want to lay your head on it. Or get the tortillas to go and use them as

the basis for a fun Phoenician picnic.

There’s a second Carolina’s in north Phoenix at 2126 E. Cactus Rd. ( 602/

275-8231).

1202 E. Mohave St. www.carolinasmex.com. 602/252-1503. Main dishes $2–$7.75. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–7:30pm; Sat 7am–6pm.

The Farm at South Mountain/The Farm Kitchen LIGHT FARE If

Wher

being in the desert has you dreaming of shady trees and green grass, you’ll enjoy

the Farm Kitchen, an oasis reminiscent of a deep South pecan orchard. A rustic

e to Eat

outbuilding has been converted to a counter-service lunch restaurant where you

can order a filling sandwich or a delicious pecan turkey Waldorf salad. The grassy

lawn, shaded by pecan trees, is ideal for a picnic. And you can let the kids run all over while you enjoy your salad or sandwich. At the back of the farm, you’ll find

the Morning Glory Café ( 602/276-8804), a cozy little breakfast place.

6106 S. 32nd St. www.thefarmatsouthmountain.com. 602/276-7288. Sandwiches and salads $10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Early Sept to May Tues–Sun 10am–3pm. (If weather is inclement, call to be sure it’s open.) Closed mid-June to early Sept. Take exit 151A off I-10 and go south on 32nd St.

Ted’s Hot Dogs AMERICAN Would you stand in line 30 minutes for a

hot dog? No? You might want to reconsider and drop by Ted’s Hot Dogs in Tempe.

At this, the only Arizona outpost of a small chain of hot dog stands based in west-

ern New York State, there always seems to be a line, but no one seems to mind the

wait. The dogs are all charcoal-broiled, and you get to pick what toppings you want

(I always get the special hot sauce). Sure it’s going to take you less time to eat your dog than to order it, but these pups are so tasty they’re well worth the wait.

1755 E. Broadway, Tempe. www.tedsonline.com. 480/968-6678. Main dishes $2.50–$5.25.

MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10am–9pm; Fri–Sat 10am–10pm; Sun 10:30am–9pm.

131

Mesa & the East Valley

VERY EXPENSIVE

Kai

NEW AMERICAN With ingredients that are frequently sourced

from Native American tribes around the country, the food at Kai is as adventur-

ous and alluring as any you’ll find in Arizona. Whether you order buffalo tender-

loin with saguaro-blossom syrup and cholla-cactus flower buds, or quail stuffed

with sausage and dried-cherry pâté, you’ll savor some of the most exotic flavors in

the Southwest. Add service that is second to none in the state and, if you’re lucky, a big-sky sunset, and you have an unforgettable meal. There just isn’t another

restaurant in the state to compare with Kai, which is gorgeous, sophisticated, and

subdued, with a pleasant patio overlooking the pool and desert beyond.

At Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa, 5594 W. Wild Horse Pass Blvd., Chandler. www.

wildhorsepassresort.com. 602/385-5726 or 602/225-0100. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $40–$54; tasting menu $120–$200 ($180–$325 with wine). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm. Closed early Aug to early Sept.

4 MODERATE

The Original Blue Adobe Grille MEXICAN This restaurant looks

like the sort of place you should drive right past. Don’t! Despite appearances, this New Mexican–style restaurant serves deliciously creative Southwestern fare at

very economical prices. To get an idea of what the food here is all about, try the

e to Eat

Cruz Kitchen combination plate (a tenderloin relleno and a smoked-pork tamale)

or the lobster tamales with mango salsa and raspberry chipotle sauce. Of course,

Wher there are great margaritas, but there’s also a surprisingly good wine list. This place is a hangout for Chicago Cubs fans and makes a good dinner stop on the way

back from driving the Apache Trail.

144 N. Country Club Dr., Mesa. www.originalblueadobe.com. 480/962-1000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–

10pm; Sun 11am–8:30pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Guedo’s Cantina Grille MEXICAN Taco stands are a peso a dozen

around the greater Phoenix metro area, but few have the cult following of Gue-

do’s in downtown Chandler. This colorful place looks as if it were transported

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

from a Mexican beach town; the patios even have sand floors and palm-thatched

shade umbrellas. The food is simple yet fresh and bursting with flavor. Order two

or three tacos (I like the fish and shrimp tacos), and then load them with toppings

from the salsa bar. Accompany your meal with a cold beer or a margarita, and you

just might forget you’re still in the States.

71 E. Chandler Blvd., Chandler. www.guedoscantinagrill.com. 480/899-7841. Main dishes $2.50–$6.50. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–9pm.

Joe’s Farm Grill AMERICAN Before I ate at Joe’s, I hardly knew where

the town of Gilbert was. However, now that you can get from Scottsdale to this

booming southeast Valley suburb entirely on freeways (and in as little as 30 min.

if it isn’t rush hour), there’s no reason not to search out this unique eatery.

Designed to resemble a 1950s burger stand and set in the middle of a farm that’s

part of the Agritopia housing development, Joe’s serves creative comfort food and

is a huge hit with families. There are big salads with various toppings, barbecued

ribs, chicken sandwiches, pizzas, and, best of all, burgers that are among the best

132

in the Valley. As much as possible, produce comes from the surrounding Agrito-

pia farm. After a meal, be sure to walk next door to the Coffee Shop ( 480/

279-3144; www.thecoffeeshopaz.com) for a pastry.

3000 E. Ray Rd., Gilbert. www.joesfarmgrill.com. 480/563-4745. Main dishes $6–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–9pm.

Joe’s Real BBQ BARBECUE Affiliated with Joe’s Farm Grill and located in

downtown Gilbert, this place serves huge portions of barbecued ribs, chopped

brisket, and pulled pork. The meats are smoked over pecan wood and come with

your choice of one or two sides. As you would expect, this place is totally casual,

with a John Deere tractor in the middle of the dining room and food served caf-

eteria-style. There’s a sunroom dining area and a shady side yard that’s the perfect place to eat on warm days. This east Valley restaurant is a good bet if you’re on

your way back from driving the Apache Trail.

301 N. Gilbert Rd., Gilbert. www.joesrealbbq.com. 480/503-3805. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $7.50–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Organ Stop Pizza PIZZA The pizza here may not be the best in town, 4

but the mighty Wurlitzer theater organ, the largest in the world, sure is memo-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

rable. This massive instrument, which contains more than 5,500 pipes, has four

turbine blowers to provide the wind to create the sound, and with 40-foot ceil-

ings in the restaurant, the acoustics are great. As you marvel at the skill of the

organist, who performs songs ranging from the latest pop tunes to The Phantom

of the Opera, you can enjoy simple pizzas, pastas, or snacks.

1149 E. Southern Ave. (at Stapley Dr.), Mesa. www.organstoppizza.com. 480/813-5700.

Reservations for large groups only. Pizzas and pastas $5.50–$19. No credit cards. Thanksgiving to mid-Apr Sun–Thurs 4–9pm, Fri–Sat 4–10pm; mid-Apr to Thanksgiving Sun–Thurs 5–9pm, Fri–

Sat 5–10pm.

Cowboy Steakhouses

Cowboy steakhouses are family restaurants that generally provide big portions of

Wher

grilled steaks and barbecued ribs, outdoor and “saloon” dining, live country

music, and various other sorts of entertainment.

e to Eat

Rawhide Steakhouse

STEAK Of the many cowboy steakhouses

around the Valley, this is by far your best bet for a family dinner. Not only are the steaks some of the best you’ll find at a family steakhouse, but there’s also an

entire Western-town theme park surrounding the restaurant, so there’s plenty to

keep you and your kids entertained before and after dinner. If you feel adventur-

ous, start your meal with some pan-fried rattlesnake. Cowboy bands keep the

crowds entertained during dinner. From February to May and in October and

November, there are also weekly sundown cookouts ($48 adults, $15 children)

that include a hayride, chuck-wagon dinner, live country music, and lots of other

traditional Wild West entertainment.

5700 W. North Loop Rd., Chandler. www.rawhide.com. 480/502-5600. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$60. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Fri 5–10pm; Sat–Sun noon–4pm and

5–10pm.

Reata Pass STEAK This is by far the most authentic cowboy steakhouse

in the Phoenix area. Part of the large restaurant is even housed in an old stage-

coach stop, and the building incorporates an adobe building that dates back to

133

1882. With live music and a huge patio set with picnic tables, this place is a

nonstop party. In the warmer months, have your steak out under the stars or the

clear blue Sonoran Desert sky. In business since the 1950s, this rustic road-

house, its bar ceiling plastered with dollar bills, is a local favorite, a place to see what Phoenix was like before it began to sprawl.

27500 N. Alma School Pkwy. www.reatapass.com. 480/585-7277. Reservations recommen-

ded. Main courses $6.25–$24. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Thurs–Fri 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm; Sun

10am–9pm.

Rustler’s Rooste STEAK This restaurant’s location, in the middle of a

sprawling golf resort, isn’t exactly cowboy country, but back in the day, they say,

rustlers used to hide out up here. Today, at the top of the hill, you’ll find a fun

Western-themed restaurant where you can start your evening by scooting down a

big slide from the bar to the main dining room. There’s a good view over the city,

and cowboy bands play for those who like to kick up their heels. Daring diners

always start with the fried rattlesnake appetizer and follow up with the enormous

4 “cowboy stuff” platter, which includes steak and seafood kabobs, barbecued pork

ribs, fried shrimp, barbecued chicken, and cowboy beans.

At the Arizona Grand Resort, 8383 S. 48th St., Phoenix. www.rustlersrooste.com. 602/431-6474. Reservations accepted for 8 or more, but there’s a call-ahead waiting list. Main courses $15–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.

e to Eat

Espresso Bars, Bakeries & Ice-Cream Parlors

Wher Espresso is not the ubiquitous drink in Phoenix that it is in many other parts of the country. However, there are a handful of places to get a good latte or cappuc-cino. In Scottsdale, try the Village Coffee Roastery, 8120 N. Hayden Rd., Ste.

E-104 ( 480/905-0881; www.villagecoffee.com), which roasts its own beans

and makes what just might be the best lattes in Scottsdale. Alternatively, try Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, which has locations all over the Valley, including in the SHOPS gainey village, 8877 N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/315-9335; www.coffee

bean.com). If you’re wandering around downtown Scottsdale’s gallery district or

the Scottsdale Waterfront and need an espresso, head to Cartel Coffee Lab,

7124 E. Fifth Ave. ( 480/225-3899; www.cartelcoffeelab.com).

Up on the north side of the Valley, I always get my espresso at Firecreek

Coffee Company, 6501 E. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek ( 480/437-9999;

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

www.firecreekcoffee.com).

Along the Camelback Corridor, there’s Hava Java, 3166 E. Camelback Rd.

( 602/954-9080), in the Safeway Shopping Center. Not far from the Heard

Museum, Lola Coffee , 4700 N. Central Ave. ( 602/265-5652; www.lola coffeebar.com), serves the best espresso in Phoenix. It’s also the hippest espresso

bar in town. Right next door there’s a great little bakery run by the owners of Piz-

zeria Bianco (p. 128). There’s a second Lola downtown at 1001 N. Third Ave.

( 602/252-2265).

If ever there were a place where ice cream is a necessity, it is Arizona. When

the heat gets to be too much for you, head to some of these great chill-out spots.

Scottsdale’s Sugar Bowl, 4005 N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/946-0051; www.

sugarbowlscottsdale.com), in the heart of Old Town, is a longtime locals’ favorite

that has been immortalized in “Family Circus” cartoons. If you find yourself dying

from the heat as you motor through central Phoenix on a toasty afternoon, there’s

no better antidote than Mary Coyle, 5521 N. Seventh Ave. ( 602/265-6266; 134

www.marycoyle.net), which makes its own ice cream and has been in business

for more than 50 years. If old-fashioned ice cream just doesn’t do it for you, check out the Gelato Spot, 3164 E. Camelback Rd. ( 602/957-8040; www.

gelatospot.com), which is right next door to Hava Java in the Safeway shopping

plaza. There are other Gelato Spots at 7366 E. Shea Blvd., no. 102, Scottsdale

( 480/367-9900), and 4166 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale ( 480/425-

8100). Alternatively, there is the delightful Grateful Spoon Gelato, 4410 N.

40th St. ( 602/955-2448), next door to La Grande Orange Pizzeria (p. 126).

When you’re in the neighborhood of the Heard Museum and craving

sweets, head down Central Avenue to Tammie Coe Cakes, 610 E. Roosevelt

St. ( 602/253-0829; www.tammiecoecakes.com), a tiny pastry shop in down-

town Phoenix. The cases here are filled with irresistibly tempting goodies. There’s

a second Tammie Coe Cakes at 4410 N. 40th St. ( 602/840-3644). If you’re

struck with a craving for something sweet while driving Scottsdale Road, head to

Cupcakes, 6137 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale ( 480/656-3816; www.got cupcakes.com), which is in the Hilton Village shopping center and bakes the best

cupcakes in town. If you’re in Tempe when you’re struck with a craving for cook-

4

ies or a croissant, head to Essence Bakery, 825 W. University Dr. ( 480/966-2745; www.essencebakery.com).

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Breakfast & Brunch

If you’re in the mood for a big breakfast, try one of the following. In downtown Phoenix, there’s Matt’s Big Breakfast, 801 N. First St. ( 602/254-1074; www.

mattsbigbreakfast.com), where ingredients are natural and organic whenever possi-

ble. South of downtown, in a bucolic farm setting, there’s Morning Glory Café,

6106 S. 32nd St. ( 602/276-8804; www.thefarmatsouthmountain.com). In the

Arcadia neighborhood south of Camelback Road, try Over Easy, 4730 E. Indian

School Rd. ( 602/468-3447; www.eatatovereasy.com). There’s a second Over

Easy in north Scottsdale at 9375 E. Bell Rd. ( 480/270-3447). In Old Town

Scottsdale, you’ve got a couple of good options, including the Breakfast Club,

4400 N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/222-2582; www.thebreakfastclub.us); and Daily Shopping

Dose, 4020 N. Scottsdale Rd. ( 480/994-3673; www.dailydosegrill.com).

Most of Phoenix’s best Sunday brunches are to be had at restaurants in

major hotels and resorts. Among the finest are those served at LON’s (at the

Hermosa Inn, p. 124), T. Cook’s (at the Royal Palms Resort and Spa, p. 150),

and Il Terrazzo (at the Phoenician, p. 160). However, for a unique experience, make a brunch reservation at Geordie’s at the Wrigley Mansion, 2501 E.

Telawa Trail ( 602/955-4079; www.wrigleymansionclub.com). The meal is

served in the historic mansion that chewing gum built. Brunch here is served

Sunday from 10am to 2pm and costs $45 per person.

SHOPPING

For the most part, shopping in the Phoenix area means malls. Scottsdale and

Phoenix’s Biltmore District (along Camelback Rd.) are the Valley’s main upscale

shopping areas, with several high-end shopping centers and malls. The various

distinct shopping districts of downtown Scottsdale are among the few upscale

outdoor shopping areas in the Valley and are home to hundreds of boutiques, gal-

leries, jewelry stores, Native American crafts stores, and souvenir shops. Old

Town Scottsdale is the most popular tourist shopping area in the Valley. With

135

dozens of galleries in the Main Street Arts and Antiques District and the nearby

Marshall Way Contemporary Arts District, it also happens to be the heart of the

Valley’s art market.

For locals, Scottsdale’s shopping scene has been moving steadily northward

over the past decade. Kierland Commons and the SHOPS gainey village are both

north of Old Town Scottsdale on North Scottsdale Road and are packed with

women’s fashion boutiques.

Antiques & Collectibles

With more than 100 antiques shops and specialty stores, downtown Glendale

(northwest of downtown Phoenix) is the Valley’s main antiques district. You’ll find

the greatest concentration of antiques stores just off Grand Avenue between 56th

and 59th avenues. A half-dozen times each year, the Arizona Antique Shows

( 602/717-7337; www.azantiqueshow.com), Arizona’s largest collectors’ shows, are held at Thunderbird Plaza, 13802 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 142 (at the corner

4 of Thunderbird Rd.).

Antique Trove If you love browsing through packed antiques malls searching

for your favorite collectibles, then this should be your first stop in the Valley. With more than 140 dealers, it’s one of the biggest antiques malls in the area. 2020 N.

Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. www.antiquetrove.com. 480/947-6074.

Arizona West Galleries

Nowhere else in Scottsdale will you find such

Shopping an amazing collection of cowboy collectibles and Western antiques. There are antique saddles and chaps, old rifles and six-shooters, sheriffs’ badges, spurs, and the like. 7149 E. Main St., Scottsdale. 480/994-3752.

Bishop Gallery for Art & Antiques This cramped shop is wonderfully

eclectic, featuring everything from Asian antiques to unusual original art. It’s

definitely worth a browse. 7164 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.bishopgal ery.net. 480/

949-9062.

Femme Fatales & Fantasies The name is a bit odd, but what this shop in

Scottsdale is all about is old movie posters. Not only are there lots of gorgeous old posters for sale, but there are also lots of rare posters from the owner’s collection on display. Well worth a visit. 7013 E. Main St. www.fffmovieposters.com. 480/429-6800.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Knox Artifacts Gallery

Ancient ceramics pieces from around the

Southwest are among the specialties at this amazing antiques store. There are

lots of other pre-Columbian artifacts as well as Roman, Greek, and Egyptian

pieces. These are museum-quality artifacts with prices to prove it. 7056 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.fortknoxartifacts.com. 480/874-1007.

Art

In the Southwest, only Santa Fe is a more important art market than Scottsdale,

and along the streets of Scottsdale’s Main Street Arts and Antiques District and

the Marshall Way Contemporary Arts District, you’ll see dozens of galleries sell-

ing everything from monumental bronzes to contemporary art created from

found objects. On Main Street, you’ll find primarily cowboy art, both traditional

and contemporary, while on North Marshall Way, you’ll discover much more dar-

ing contemporary art.

Every Thursday night, galleries in Scottsdale stay open late and often have

artist receptions, live music, and other special events. The Scottsdale ArtWalk

136

(www.scottsdalegalleries.com) is sponsored by the Scottsdale Gallery Association

and runs from 7 to 9pm. In addition to the late hours for the galleries, there is

usually live music at various open-air locations around the gallery districts.

In addition to the galleries listed here, you’ll usually find a huge tent full of

art in north Scottsdale. The annual Celebration of Fine Art ( 480/443-

7695; www.celebrateart.com) takes place each year between mid-January and

late March. Not only will you get to see the work of 100 artists, but on any given

day, you’ll also find dozens of the artists at work on the premises. Admission is

$10 for adults and $8 for seniors. Call or check the website for location and

hours of operation.

Art One This gallery specializes in works by art students and other cutting-

edge artists from the area. The works here can be surprisingly good, and prices

are very reasonable. 4130 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale. www.artonegal eryinc.com. 480/

946-5076.

Bentley Projects Housed in a huge old warehouse south of Chase Field in

downtown Phoenix, this massive gallery is one of the city’s most cutting-edge

contemporary-art spaces. There’s a second gallery in Scottsdale at 4161 N. Mar-

4

shall Way ( 480/946-6060). 215 E. Grant St., Phoenix. www.bentleygal ery.com.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

602/340-9200.

Gebert Contemporary With other galleries in Santa Fe, this is one of the

Southwest’s premier contemporary-art galleries. Abstract art tends to dominate

the exhibit schedule here. 7160 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.gebertartaz.com. 480/

429-0711.

Lisa Sette Gallery If you aren’t a fan of cowboy or Native American art, don’t

despair. Instead, drop by this gallery, which always mounts eclectic and fascinat-

ing shows. You might even catch a show by William Wegman, America’s favorite

dog photographer. 4142 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale. www.lisasettegal ery.com. 480/

990-7342.

Overland Gallery of Fine Art

Traditional Western and Russian

Impressionist paintings form the backbone of this gallery’s offerings. The works

Shopping

on display here are museum-quality and prices sometimes approach $100,000.

Definitely worth a look. The gallery also shows the angular Southwest landscapes

of Ed Mell, one of the Southwest’s top artists. 7155 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.over landgal ery.com. 800/920-0220 or 480/947-1934.

Riva Yares Gallery This is one of Scottsdale’s largest and most respected

contemporary-art galleries, and has a second location in Santa Fe. You may not

have room in your car for the monumental sculptures sold here, but I’m sure

they’ll deliver for you. If you’re lucky, you might stumble on a show by the likes of Milton Avery or Frank Stella. 3625 Bishop Lane, Scottsdale. www.rivayaresgal ery.com.

480/947-3251.

Wilde Meyer Gallery Brightly colored and playful are the norm at this gal-

lery, which represents Linda Carter Holman, a Southwestern favorite who does

cowgirl-inspired paintings. The associated Colores by Wilde Meyer is at 7100 E.

Main St., Scottsdale ( 480/947-1489). 4142 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale. www.wilde meyer.com. 480/945-2323.

Xanadu Gallery Featuring glass art, colorful and graphic two-dimensional

works, and the fun Wild West collages and paintings of Dave Newman, this gal-

lery always seems to show art that’s distinctly different from that at most of the

137

other galleries on Main Street. 7039 E. Main St., Ste. 101, Scottsdale. www.xanadugal ery.

com. 866/483-1306 or 480/368-9929.

Books

Major chain bookstores in the area include four Barnes & Noble locations: 10235 N. Metro Pkwy. E., Phoenix ( 602/678-0088); in Kierland Commons,

North Scottsdale Road and East Greenway Parkway, Scottsdale ( 480/948-

8551); 10500 N. 90th St., Scottsdale ( 480/391-0048); and Tempe Marketplace, 2000 E. Rio Salado Pkwy., Tempe ( 480/894-6954).

Guidon Books Whether you’re already a student of Western and Civil War

history or have only recently developed an interest in the past, this bookshop in

Old Town Scottsdale should not be missed. Rare and out-of-print books are a

specialty, but there are plenty of new books as well. Western Americana and the

Civil War are the main focus here. 7109 E. Second St., Scottsdale. www.guidon.com.

480/945-8811.

4 The Poisoned Pen The store name should give you a clue as to what sort of

bookstore this is: It specializes in mysteries. In addition to shelves packed with

whodunits, there are lots of collectible first editions and books signed by the

authors. 4014 N. Goldwater Blvd., Ste. 101, Scottsdale. www.poisonedpen.com. 888/560-9919 or 480/947-2974.

Shopping Chocolate

Cerreta Candy Company Want to feel like a kid in Willy Wonka’s candy

factory? Head west to Glendale and the Cerreta Candy Company factory, which

is open for tours Monday through Friday at 10am and 1pm (shopping hours are

longer). The store here is packed with all kinds of sweet treats. 5345 W. Glendale

Ave., Glendale. www.cerreta.com. 623/930-1000.

Fashion

In addition to the options mentioned below, there are lots of great shops in malls

all over the city. Favorite destinations for upscale fashions include Scottsdale

Fashion Square, Biltmore Fashion Park, the SHOPS gainey village, the Borgata

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

of Scottsdale, and el Pedregal Shops & Dining at the Boulders. See “Malls &

Shopping Centers,” below, for details.

For cowboy and cowgirl attire, see “Western Wear,” below.

Conrad Leather Boutique If you need a new leather jacket or belt, there’s

no better place in the Valley to look than this north Scottsdale boutique. In el

Pedregal, 34505 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. E-7, Scottsdale. 480/488-2190.

Scottsdale Jean Company If you’re searching for the latest high-fashion

jeans, don’t leave town without dropping by this shop in north Scottsdale. It has

the biggest and best selection of jeans in the city. In Northsight Crossing Center, 14747

N. Northsight Blvd., Ste. 106 (at Raintree Dr., on the northeast corner), Scottsdale. www.

scottsdalejc.com. 480/905-9300.

Stefan Mann Purses, purses, purses. Gorgeous leather purses, wallets, and

luggage are to be had at Stefan Mann, which has been in business for more than

25 years. If you’re constantly on the prowl for a standout handbag, you’ll certainly find something here. In el Pedregal, 34505 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. J-6, Scottsdale. www.

stefanmann.com. 480/488-3371.

138

Gifts & Souvenirs

Bischoff’s Shades of the West This is a one-stop shop for all things South-

western. From T-shirts to regional foods, this sprawling store has it all, with good selections of candles, Mexican crafts, and wrought-iron cabinet hardware that

can give your kitchen a Western look. 7247 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.shadesof

thewest.com. 480/945-3289.

Sphinx Ranch Gourmet Gift Market Dates—love ’em or hate ’em, there’s

no denying the connection these supersweet little palm fruits have to the desert.

At this old-fashioned shop just south of Old Town Scottsdale, you can buy all

kinds of dates and date products. 3039 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. www.sphinxdate ranch.com. 800/482-3283 or 480/941-2261.

The Store @ Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts This gift

shop on the downtown Scottsdale mall has a wonderful selection of fun, contem-

porary, and artistic gifts, including lots of jewelry. There’s another gift shop next door at the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art. 7380 E. 2nd St., Scottsdale.

www.scottsdaleperformingarts.com. 480/874-4644.

4

Two Plates Full I love wandering through this shop just to marvel at all the

bright colors and fun designs. Featuring functional art and crafts, home acces-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

sories, and jewelry, this is a great place to shop for unique gifts. In the Borgata of Scottsdale shopping center, 6166 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 402, Scottsdale. www.twoplatesful .

com. 480/443-3241.

Jewelry

Cornelis Hollander Although this shop is much smaller and not nearly as

dramatic as the nearby Jewelry by Gauthier store (see below), the designs are just

as cutting edge. Whether you’re looking for classic chic or trendy modern designs,

you’ll find plenty to interest you here. 4151 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale. www.cornelis hol ander.com. 800/677-6821 or 480/423-5000.

The Jewelry Boutique at Molina If you can spend as much on a necklace

Shopping

as you can on a Mercedes, then this is the place to shop for your baubles.

Although you don’t need an appointment, it’s highly recommended. You’ll then

get personalized service as you peruse the classically styled jewelry. 3134 E. Camelback Rd. www.finejeweler.com. 602/508-1653.

Jewelry by Gauthier This elegant store sells the designs of the phenome-

nally talented Scott Gauthier. The stylishly modern pieces use precious stones

and are miniature works of art. There’s a second, much smaller shop in Kierland

Commons, 15034 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 120 ( 480/443-4030). 4211 N.

Marshall Way, Scottsdale. www.jewelrybygauthier.com. 888/411-3232 or 480/941-1707.

Sami This little jewelry store, northeast of Scottsdale in the city of Fountain

Hills, specializes in amethyst from a mine in the nearby Four Peaks Mountains.

The mine has been producing gemstones since Spanish colonial times, and the

very best of the stones wind up at this shop. You’ll also find Arizona peridot and

“anthill” garnet jewelry here. The store sometimes even offers tours to the mine

itself. 16704 Ave. of the Fountains, Ste. 100, Fountain Hil s. www.samifinejewelry.com. 877/

376-6323 or 480/837-8168.

Malls & Shopping Centers

While locals don’t want to call it a shopping center, the Scottsdale Waterfront,

an ambitious mixed-use development along a canal at the corner of Camelback 139

and Scottsdale roads, is essentially just that. There are shops, most of which are

either national chains or satellites of popular local boutiques, restaurants (once

again national and local chains), and high-rise residential towers. The only real

difference between the Scottsdale Waterfront and the attached Scottsdale Fash-

ion Square is that at the waterfront you actually have to (get to?) walk around

outside. On the south side of the canal, you’ll find the fun little boutiques of the Mix Shops, which is part of the SouthBridge development. This bank of the canal also has several good restaurants.

Now, when I say this development is along a canal, don’t start thinking

Venice-style canals. Scottsdale’s canal, a cement-lined trough, is not exactly a

romantic watercourse, although it is lined with attractive pathways, gardens,

fountains, and sculptures that together make this the prettiest shopping and din-

ing destination in town.

Biltmore Fashion Park This open-air shopping plaza with garden court-

yards is one of the most pleasant places to shop in Phoenix. Saks Fifth Avenue

4 and Macy’s are the two anchors, while smaller storefronts bear familiar names

including Apple, Tommy Bahama, Brooks Brothers, and Ralph Lauren. There are

also lots of restaurants here. 2502 E. Camelback Rd. (at 24th St.). www.shopbiltmore.com.

602/955-8400.

The Borgata of Scottsdale Designed to resemble the medieval Italian

village of San Gimignano, complete with turrets, stone walls, and ramparts, the

Shopping Borgata is far and away the most architecturally interesting mall in the Valley.

Within its walls, you’ll find about two dozen upscale boutiques, galleries, and

restaurants. 6166 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.borgata.com. 602/953-6538.

el Pedregal at the Boulders Just south of Carefree and adjacent to the

Boulders resort 30 minutes north of Old Scottsdale, el Pedregal is the most self-

consciously Southwestern shopping center in the Valley, and it’s worth the long

drive out just to see the neo–Santa Fe/Moroccan architecture. The shops offer

high-end merchandise, fashions, and art. 34505 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. www.

elpedregal.com. 480/488-1072.

Kierland Commons

The urban-village concept of a shopping center—

narrow streets, sidewalks, and residences mixed in with retail space—has taken off

all over the country, and here in Scottsdale, the concept has taken on Texas-size

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

proportions. However, despite the grand scale of this shopping center, it has a great feel. You’ll find Tommy Bahama, Anthropologie, Crate & Barrel, and even a few local boutiques. 15205 N. Kierland Blvd. www.

kierlandcommons.com. 480/348-1577.

Outlets at Anthem If you enjoy

searching out deals at factory-outlet

stores, then you’ll be in heaven at the

this vast outlet mall 30 miles north of

Phoenix. Among the offerings are Ann

Taylor, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Levi’s.

4250 W. Anthem Way, Anthem. www.outlets

anthem.com. 623/465-9500. Take exit 229

(Anthem Way) off I-17.

Scottsdale Fashion Square

Scottsdale has long been the Valley’s

shopping mecca, and for years this Outdoor shopping at Kierland Commons.

140

huge mall has been the reason why. It houses five major department stores—

Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, and Barney’s New York—and

smaller stores such as Coach, Eddie Bauer, J. Crew, and Louis Vuitton. 7014 E.

Camelback Rd. (at Scottsdale Rd.), Scottsdale. www.fashionsquare.com. 480/941-2140.

the SHOPS gainey village This upscale shopping center is much smaller

than Kierland Commons farther up Scottsdale Road, but it has what just might

be the most impressive concentration of women’s clothing stores anywhere in

Scottsdale. 8777–8989 N. Scottsdale Rd. (at Doubletree Ranch Rd.). www.theshopsgainey village.com.

Native American Arts, Crafts & Jewelry

Bischoff’s at the Park

This museum-like store and gallery is affiliated

with another Bischoff’s right across the street (see “Gifts & Souvenirs,” above).

However, this outpost carries higher-end jewelry; Western-style home furnish-

ings; and clothing, ceramics, sculptures, contemporary paintings, and books and

music with a regional theme. 3925 N. Brown Ave., Scottsdale. 480/946-6155.

Faust Gallery Old Native American baskets and pottery, as well as old and

4

new Navajo rugs, are the specialties at this interesting shop. It also sells Native

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

American and Southwestern art, including ceramics, paintings, bronzes, and

unusual sculptures. 7100 E. Main St., Ste. 3, Scottsdale. www.faustgal ery.com. 480/

200-4290.

Gilbert Ortega Gallery & Museum This is the biggest and one of the best

places in Old Town Scottsdale to shop for Native American jewelry, and as the

name implies, there are also museum displays throughout the store. While jewelry

is the main attraction, there are also baskets, sculptures, pottery, rugs, paintings, and kachina dolls. 3925 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.gilbertortega.com. 480/990-1808.

Heard Museum Gift Shop The Heard Museum (see “Seeing the Sights,”

earlier in this chapter) has an astonishing collection of well-crafted Native

American jewelry, art, and crafts of all kinds. This is the best place in the Valley to shop for Native American arts and crafts; you can be absolutely assured of the

Shopping

quality. Because the store doesn’t have to charge sales tax, you’ll also save a bit

of money. Also be sure to check out the affiliated Berlin Gallery, which features

contemporary Native American art. At the Heard Museum, 2301 N. Central Ave. www.

heard.org. 602/252-8344.

John C. Hill Antique Indian Art

While shops selling Native American

art and artifacts abound in Scottsdale, few offer the high quality available in this tiny shop. Not only does the store have one of the finest selections of Navajo rugs

in the Valley, including quite a few older rugs, but there also are kachina dolls,

superb pieces of Navajo and Zuni silver-and-turquoise jewelry, baskets, and pot-

tery. 6962 E. 1st Ave., Ste. 104, Scottsdale. www.johnhil gal ery.com. 480/946-2910.

Old Territorial Indian Arts

Owned and operated by Alston and Debo-

rah Neal, this is the oldest Indian arts-and-crafts store on Main Street, and it offers good values on jewelry, concho belts, kachina dolls, fetishes, pottery, and Navajo

rugs. 7077 E. Main St., Ste. 7, Scottsdale. www.oldterritorialshop.com. 480/945-5432.

River Trading Post If you are interested in getting into collecting Native

American art or artifacts, this is a good place to get in on the ground floor. Quality is high and prices are relatively low. Not only are there high-quality Navajo rugs,

but there are also museum-quality pieces of ancient Southwestern pottery. 7033

E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.rivertradingpost.com. 866/426-6901 or 480/444-0001.

141

Outlet Malls & Discount Shopping

Arizona Mills This huge mall in Tempe is a temple of budget consumerism

that attracts primarily young, cash-strapped shoppers. You’ll find lots of name-

brand outlets, a multiplex theater, and an IMAX theater. 5000 S. Arizona Mil s Circle, Tempe. www.arizonamil s.com. 480/491-7300. From I-10, take the Baseline Rd. east exit.

From U.S. 60, exit Priest Dr. south.

My Sister’s Closet This is where the crème de la crème of Scottsdale’s used

clothing comes to be resold. You’ll find reasonable prices on such labels as

Armani, Donna Karan, and Calvin Klein. Locations are also at Town & Country

shopping plaza, 2033 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix ( 602/954-6080), and Des-

ert Village, 23269 N. Pima Rd., Ste. 121 ( 480/419-6242). At Lincoln Vil age, 6204 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. www.mysisterscloset.com. 480/443-4575.

Western Wear

Az-Tex Hat Company If you’re looking to bring home a cowboy hat, this is

4 the best place in Scottsdale to do your shopping. The small shop in Old Scotts-

dale offers custom shaping and fitting of both felt and woven hats. 3903 N.

Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. www.aztexhats.com. 800/972-2116 or 480/481-9900.

Out West If the revival of 1950s cowboy fashions and interiors has hit your

nostalgia button, then you’ll want to high-tail it up to this eclectic shop. All things Western are available, and the fashions are both beautiful and fun (although

fancy and pricey). 7003 E. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek. www.outwestmercantile.com.

480/488-0180.

Saba’s Western Stores Since 1927, this store has been outfitting Scotts-

dale’s cowboys and cowgirls, visiting dude ranchers, and anyone else who wants

to adopt the look of the Wild West. There’s another Saba’s around the corner at

Entertainment & Nightlife 3965 N. Brown Ave. ( 480/947-7664). Call or check the website for other locations around Phoenix. 7254 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.sabaswesternwear.com.

877/342-1835 or 480/949-7404.

Sheplers Western Wear This is the largest Western-wear store in the Valley,

a veritable department store of cowboy duds. If you can’t find it here, it just ain’t available in these parts. 829 N. Dobson Rd., Mesa. www.sheplers.com. 480/668-1211.

ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE

If you’re looking for nightlife in the Valley of the Sun, you won’t have to search

very hard, but you may have to drive a long way. Although much of the nightlife

scene is centered on downtown Scottsdale, Tempe’s Mill Avenue, and downtown

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Phoenix, you’ll find things going on all over.

Even if it were not in the middle of the desert, the Scottsdale club scene

would be red-hot. Packed into a few dozen blocks surrounding Old Town Scott-

sdale, near the corner of Camelback and Scottsdale roads, are dozens of trendy

dance clubs and chic bars. This is where visiting celebrities, wealthy fashionistas, and wannabes all come to party. The crowd is young, affluent, and attractive, and

with all the beautiful people cruising around in Porsches and limousines, it’s easy

to think you’re in L.A. Cruise along Stetson Drive, which is divided into two sections (east and west of Scottsdale Rd.), to find the latest hot spots.

While Scottsdale is the Valley’s top nightclub hot spot for the fashion-con-

scious, the Valley has plenty of clubs and bars for those who don’t wear Prada.

142

Other nightlife districts include Tempe’s Mill Avenue and downtown Phoenix.

This latter area comes into its own after basketball and baseball games and con-

certs at US Airways Center.

Mill Avenue in Tempe is a good place to wander around in search of your

favorite type of music. The bars and clubs here are mostly within walking dis-

tance of one another. Because Tempe is a college town, the crowd tends to be

young and rowdy.

Downtown Phoenix is home to Symphony Hall, the Herberger Theater

Center, and several sports bars. However, much of the action revolves around

sports events and concerts at US Airways Center and Chase Field.

As most denizens of any urban nightlife scene know, clubs come and go. To

find out what’s hot, get a copy of the Phoenix New Times. Another publication to check for abbreviated listings is Where Phoenix/Scottsdale, which is free and can usually be found at hotels and resorts. Many dance clubs in the Phoenix area are

open only on weekends, so be sure to check what nights the doors will be open.

Tickets to many concerts, theater performances, and sporting events are available

through Ticketmaster ( 866/448-7849 or 800/745-3000; www.ticketmaster.

4

com), which has outlets at Fry’s Marketplace grocery stores.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

The Performing Arts

Although downtown Phoenix claims the Valley’s greatest concentration of perfor-

mance halls, including Symphony Hall, the Orpheum Theatre, and the Her-

berger Theater Center, there are major performing arts venues scattered across

the Valley. No matter where you happen to be staying, you’re likely to find perfor-

mances being held somewhere nearby.

Calling these many Valley venues home are such major companies as the

Phoenix Symphony, Arizona Opera Company, Ballet Arizona, Center Dance

Ensemble, Actors Theatre of Phoenix, and Arizona Theatre Company. Adding to

the performances held by these companies are the wide variety of touring com-

panies that make stops here throughout the year.

While you’ll find box-office phone numbers listed below, you can also pur-

Entertainment & Nightlife

chase most performing arts tickets through Ticketmaster ( 866/448-7849 or 800/745-3000; www.ticketmaster.com). For sold-out shows, check with your

hotel concierge, or try Tickets Unlimited ( 800/289-8497 or 602/840-

2340; www.ticketsunlimitedinc.com).

MAJOR PERFORMING

ARTS CENTERS

Symphony Hall, 75 N. Second St.

( 602/262-7272; www.phoenix.

gov/extranet/pccd/symphonyhall.

html), is Phoenix’s premier perfor-

mance venue and is home to the

Phoenix Symphony, Ballet Arizona,

and the Arizona Opera Company. It

also hosts touring Broadway shows

and various other concerts and the-

atrical productions. The hall’s Grand

Drape is the world’s largest piece of

Symphony Hall is home to the Phoenix

Symphony.

machine-made embroidery.

143

Grady Gammage Auditorium hosts touring Broadway shows.

4

The Orpheum Theatre, 203 W. Adams St. ( 602/262-7272; www.

phoenix.gov/extranet/pccd/orpheum.html), is the most elegant hall in the Valley.

The historic Spanish colonial baroque-revival theater was built in 1929 and at the

time was considered the most luxurious theater west of the Mississippi. Today, its

ornately carved sandstone facade stands in striking contrast to the adjacent glass-

and-steel City Hall building, with which the theater shares a common wall.

Although not the largest performance venue in town, the Celebrity Thea-

tre, 440 N. 32nd St. ( 602/267-1600; www.celebritytheatre.com), often books good shows. With its revolving stage and no seat farther than 75 feet from

the performers, this is a great place to catch a show.

The Comerica Theatre, 400 W. Washington St. ( 602/379-2888;

www.livenation.com), is another of Phoenix’s major downtown performance halls

Entertainment & Nightlife and seats from 2,000 to 5,000 people. It books many top names in entertainment, as well as the occasional Broadway show or international touring company.

The Frank Lloyd Wright–designed Grady Gammage Auditorium, 1200

S. Forest Ave. (at Mill Ave. and Apache Blvd.), Tempe ( 480/965-3434; www.

asugammage.com), on the Arizona State University campus, is at once massive

and graceful. This 3,000-seat hall is where touring Broadway shows perform

when they come to the Valley.

The Scottsdale Center for the Arts, 7380 E. Second St., Scottsdale

( 480/499-8587; www.scottsdaleperformingarts.org), hosts a variety of performances and series, ranging from classical music to alternative dance. This center

seems to get the best of the touring performers who come through the Valley.

In Scottsdale, the ASU Kerr Cultural Center, 6110 N. Scottsdale Rd.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

( 480/596-2660; www.asukerr.com), a tiny venue in a historic home near the

Borgata shopping center, offers up an eclectic season that includes music from

around the world. The Kerr Cultural Center sponsors a couple of different free

concert series.

With its sail-like shade canopies, sunken sculpture courtyard, numerous water

features, and colorful architecture, the Mesa Arts Center, 1 E. Main St. ( 480/

644-6500; www.mesaartscenter.com), is the prettiest performing arts center in the Valley. Check out the performance schedule when planning your visit.

The Tempe Center for the Arts, 700 W. Rio Salado Pkwy., Tempe ( 480/

350-2822; www.tempe.gov/tca), is centrally located and is on the shore of

144

Tempe Town Lake. There are water views out its big wall of glass, and in the two

performance halls, there are frequent jazz concerts, as well as performances by

the Tempe Symphony Orchestra, Tempe Little Theatre, and Childsplay, a local

children’s theater company.

OUTDOOR VENUES & SERIES

Given the weather, it should come as no surprise that Phoenicians like to attend

performances under the sun and stars.

Ashley Furniture Homestore Pavilion, 2121 N. 83rd Ave., Phoenix

( 602/254-7200; www.cricket-pavilion.com), west of downtown and 1⁄2 mile

north of I-10 between 75th and 83rd avenues, is the city’s top outdoor venue.

This 20,000-seat amphitheater is open year-round and hosts everything from

Broadway musicals to rock concerts.

Mesa Amphitheater, 263 N. Center St. (at University Dr.), Mesa ( 480/

644-2560; www.mesaamp.com), is a much smaller amphitheater that holds a

wide variety of concerts in spring and summer, and occasionally other times of

year as well.

4

Throughout the year, the Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts,

7380 E. Second St., Scottsdale ( 480/499-8587; www.scottsdaleperforming

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

arts.org), stages outdoor performances in the adjacent Scottsdale Amphitheater

on the Scottsdale Civic Center Mall. The Sunday A’fair series runs from January

to April, with free concerts from noon to 4pm on selected Sundays of each

month. Performances range from acoustic blues to zydeco.

Two perennial favorites of

Valley residents take place in par-

Lunch & a Show

ticularly attractive surroundings.

The Music in the Garden concerts

At downtown Phoenix’s Herberger Theater

at the Desert Botanical Gar-

Center, 222 E. Monroe St. ( 602/254-

den, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy. in 7399; www.herbergertheater.org), lunch

Papago Park ( 480/941-1225

break means the actors hit the stage while

or 480/481-8188; www.dbg.org), the audience grabs sandwiches for Lunch

Entertainment & Nightlife

are held on Sundays in January Time Theater. Throughout much of the year,

and February. The season always

30- to 45-minute plays are staged at noon

includes an eclectic array of musi-

Tuesday through Thursday. Tickets are only

cal styles. Tickets are $21 for $6, and inexpensive boxed salads, sand-

adults and $8 for children 3 to 12;

wiches, and pasta salads can be ordered in

garden admission is included. Up

advance.

on the north side of the Valley, just

outside Carefree, el Pedregal at

the Boulders, 34505 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale ( 480/488-1072; www.

elpedregal.com), often has free live music on weekends (usually Sun afternoon).

Outdoor concerts are also held at various parks and plazas around the Valley

during the warmer months. Check local papers for listings.

CLASSICAL MUSIC, OPERA & DANCE

The Phoenix Symphony ( 800/776-9080 or 602/495-1999; www.phoenix

symphony.org), the Southwest’s leading symphony orchestra, performs at Sym-

phony Hall (tickets mostly run $18–$88).

Opera buffs will want to see what the Arizona Opera ( 602/266-7464;

www.azopera.org) has scheduled. Each season, this company stages up to five

145

operas, both familiar and more obscure, and splits its time between Phoenix and

Tucson. Tickets cost $35 to $165. Performances are held at Symphony Hall.

Ballet Arizona ( 602/381-1096; www.balletaz.org) performs at both

the Orpheum Theatre and Symphony Hall and stages both classical and contem-

porary ballets; tickets run $17 to $121. The Center Dance Ensemble ( 602/

252-8497; www.centerdance.com), the city’s contemporary dance company, stages several productions a year at the Herberger Theater Center. Tickets cost $22.

THEATER

With nearly a dozen professional companies and at least as many major nonpro-

fessional companies taking to the boards throughout the year, a play is always

being staged somewhere in the Valley. So, for much of the year, theater fans will

have plenty to choose from on a visit to Phoenix.

The Herberger Theater Center, 222 E. Monroe St. ( 602/254-7399;

www.herbergertheater.org), which is located downtown and vaguely resembles a

Spanish colonial church, is the city’s main venue for live theater. Its two Broad-

4 way-style theaters together host hundreds of performances each year, including

productions by the Actors Theatre and the Arizona Theatre Company (ATC).

Actors Theatre ( 602/253-6701 or 602/252-8497 for tickets; www.atphx.

org) tends to stage smaller, lesser-known off-Broadway–type works, with musi-

cals, dramas, and comedies equally represented; tickets go for $21 to $44. ATC

( 602/256-6995; www.aztheatreco.org) is the state theater company and

splits its performances between Phoenix and Tucson. Founded in 1967, it’s the

major force on the Arizona thespian scene. Productions range from world pre-

mieres to recent Tony Award winners to classics. Tickets run $33 to $63.

Phoenix Theatre, 100 E. McDowell Rd. ( 602/254-2151; www.phoenix

theatre.net), has its performance venue in the Phoenix Art Museum building and

has been around for more than 90 years. Musicals are the mainstays here; tickets

Entertainment & Nightlife to most main-stage shows are $42 to $80. If your interest lies in Broadway plays, see what Broadway Across America–Arizona ( 480/965-3434; www.

broadwayacrossamerica.com/tempe) has scheduled. The series, focusing mostly

on comedies and musicals, is held at the Gammage Auditorium in Tempe; tickets

usually cost between $20 and $65, with the occasional higher-price tickets for a

real blockbuster show. The Theater League ( 800/776-7469 or 602/262-

7272; www.theaterleague.com) is another series that brings in Broadway musi-

cals. Performances are held in the Orpheum Theatre, and tickets usually range

from $40 to $65.

If you’re staying in Scottsdale and are looking for something to do with the

whole family, the Scottsdale Desert Stages Theatre, 4720 N. Scottsdale Rd.

( 480/483-1664; www.desertstages.com), stages primarily musicals and chil-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

dren’s theater productions. Tickets range from $15 to $25.

Bars

SCOTTSDALE

AZ88 Located across the park from the Scottsdale Center for the Arts, this

sophisticated bar/restaurant has a hip, contemporary ambience that’s just right

for a martini or a basket of waffle fries before or after a performance. There’s also a great patio area. Wednesday through Saturday, DJs spin everything from acid

jazz to vintage rock and pop. Weekend nights, the crowd is primarily gay. 7353

Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale. www.az88.com. 480/994-5576.

146

The Casablanca Lounge With a

swanky setting, rooftop patios, and good

cocktails, this is a great place catch the

sunset or have an after-dinner cocktail.

Casablanca is upstairs from the Herb

Box restaurant and overlooks the Scotts-

dale waterfront. 7134 E. Stetson Dr., Third

Floor. www.thecasablancalounge.com 480/

970-7888.

Center Stage Bar

The open-

air lounge just below the main lobby of

the posh Hyatt Regency Scottsdale

Resort sets a romantic stage for nightly

live music. Wood fires burn in patio fire

pits, and the terraced gardens offer

plenty of dark spots for a bit of romance.

In Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort, 4

7500 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Scottsdale.

www.scottsdale.hyatt.com. 480/444-1234.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Coach House No, this place is def-

AZ88 is known for its martinis.

initely not a trendy boutique selling

overpriced black handbags. It’s an

open-air, all-day drinking establishment where you have to check your Scottsdale

pretentions at the door, make that the patio gate. In business for more than 50

years, the Coach House captures the feel of old Scottsdale without going too

heavy on the cowboy kitsch. 7011 E. Indian School Rd. www.coachhousescottsdale.com.

480/990-3433.

Don & Charlie’s Although this is primarily a steakhouse, it also has the best

sports bar in Scottsdale. What makes Don & Charlie’s such a great sports bar is

not the size or number of its TVs, but rather all the sports memorabilia on the

Entertainment & Nightlife

walls. 7501 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale. www.donandcharlies.com. 480/990-0900.

Dos Gringos For young partyers who don’t feel like getting dressed up to go

out on the town, this is a great choice. With its open-air bar, Dos Gringos is pat-

terned after Mexican beach bars and can be loads of fun on a Saturday night. 4209

N. Craftsman Court, Scottsdale. www.dosgringosaz.com. 480/423-3800.

Kazimierz World Wine Bar Sort of a spacious speak-easy crossed with a

wine cellar, this place, which is associated with the nearby Cowboy Ciao restau-

rant (p. 116), offers the same wide selection of wines available at the restaurant.

There are dozens of wines by the glass and live music or DJs (free to $5 cover)

several nights each week. The entrance is hard to find, but it’s worth seeking out

(look around back for the big wooden door with a sign that says the truth is

inside). 7137 E. Stetson Dr., Scottsdale. www.kazbar.net. 480/946-3004.

The Mint Housed in a former bank and with the bank vault door serving as a

focal point, this place bills itself as an “ultra lounge,” which means that it attracts the best dressed and best looking crowd in Scottsdale. You’ll definitely need to

dress the part if you plan on hanging out here. Before the bar crowd arrives, this is a pan-Asian restaurant. 7373 E. Camelback Rd. www.themintaz.com. 480/947-6468.

147

Olive & Ivy With a huge patio right on the canal in the Scottsdale Water-

front, the bar at this restaurant is one of the places to see and be seen in Scottsdale. There are more than 30 wines available by the glass, and the bartenders mix

decent drinks, too. Be sure to dress the part. 7135 E. Camelback Rd., Ste. 195,

Scottsdale. www.foxrestaurantconcepts.com. 480/751-2200.

Papago Brewing Brewing some of the best beers in the valley and serving lots

of great beers from other breweries, this pub south of Old Town Scottsdale is a beer geek’s nirvana. This is a great place to escape the glitz of Scottsdale’s swanky nightclubs. 7107 E. McDowell Rd., Scottsdale. www.papagobrewing.com. 480/425-7439.

RnR For some people, nothing says vacation like a bit of daytime drinking. If

this describes you, then you’ll want to spend a warm afternoon on the patio or

second-floor balcony of this big bar. You can sip your drink and watch the world

go by on busy Scottsdale Road. 3737 N. Scottsdale Rd. www.rnrscottsdale.com. 480/

945-3353.

Salty Señorita As you might guess from the name, this open-air bar on the

4 southern edge of Old Town Scottsdale serves delicious margaritas. In fact, they

repeatedly have been voted best in the Valley. Best of all, on Monday nights,

they’re half-price. This is a great place to kick back on a hot afternoon. 3636 N.

Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. www.saltysenorita.com. 480/946-7258.

NORTH SCOTTSDALE, CAREFREE & CAVE CREEK

Cave Creek Coffee Co. & Wine Bar Located way up north in the cow

town of Cave Creek, this hip coffeehouse doubles as a lively wine bar that also

happens to book some great music. Past performers have included Kelly Joe

Phelps, Michelle Shocked, Richie Havens, and Rickie Lee Jones. 6033 E. Cave

Creek Rd., Cave Creek. www.cavecreekcoffee.com. 480/488-0603. No cover to $40.

Uncorked: The Unpretentious Wine Bar This unpretentious little

Entertainment & Nightlife north Scottsdale wine bar is a challenge to locate, but that’s what makes it such an enjoyable spot. You’ll find Uncorked in the courtyard of the Promenade Corporate Center at the intersection of Scottsdale Road and Frank Lloyd Wright

Boulevard in the same shopping center that houses the big blue Frank Lloyd

Wright spire. 16427 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 130, Scottsdale. www.uncorkedwinebar.com.

480/699-9230.

THE CAMELBACK CORRIDOR, CENTRAL &

DOWNTOWN PHOENIX

Alice Cooper’stown Sports and rock mix it up at this downtown restaurant/

bar run by, you guessed it, Alice Cooper. Chase Field, where the Arizona Dia-

mondbacks play ball, is only a block away. See p. 154 for more information. 101 E.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Jackson St. www.alicecooperstown.com. 602/253-7337.

Bar Bianco Located downtown on Heritage Square, this little wine bar is

in a restored historic home and is affiliated with Pizzeria Bianco (p. 128), the tiny and ever-popular designer-pizza place next door. This is a very romantic spot for

a drink. 609 E. Adams St. www.pizzeriabianco.com. 602/528-3699.

Durant’s In business for decades, Durant’s has long been downtown Phoe-

nix’s favorite after-work watering hole. Although especially popular with the old

guard, this classic bar has caught on with the young martini-drinking crowd as

well. 2611 N. Central Ave. www.durantsfinefoods.com. 602/264-5967.

148

Fez If you happen to be in downtown Phoenix and are looking for a stylish

place for a cocktail, drop by this hip bar/restaurant on Central Avenue. Although

the name sounds like this might be some exotic Moroccan place, nothing is fur-

ther from the truth. About the only thing remotely North African here is the

pomegranate juice used in the cocktails. 3815 N. Central Ave. www.fezoncentral.com.

602/287-8700.

Last Drop Bar Named for artist Lon Megargee’s painting that appears inside

Stetson hats, this bar, in Megargee’s former home, has a more authentically west-

ern feel than just about any other bar in the Valley. If you’re searching for the wild West as it used to be, stop by for a cocktail or a local microbrew. Just be sure to

put on yer new duds; this place is a bit more sophisticated than your average

cowboy bar. At the Hermosa Inn, 5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd. 602/955-7878.

Majerle’s Sports Grill If you’re a Phoenix Suns fan, you won’t want to miss

this sports bar located only a couple of blocks from US Airways Center, where

the Suns play. Suns memorabilia covers the walls, and who knows, you just might

bump into a team member or two while you’re here. 24 N. 2nd St. www.majerles.com.

602/253-0118.

4

MercBar With bars in Phoenix and New York, this dark and seductive bar in

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

the heart of the Camelback corridor is the place in the neighborhood for martinis and eye candy. You won’t find a better place to escape the tourists and conven-tioneers at your resort. 2525 E. Camelback Rd. www.mercbar.com. 602/508-9449.

Postino

This popular wine bar is in the heart of the Arcadia neighbor-

hood, south of Camelback Road, and is housed in a former post office. Casual

yet stylish, the bar has garage-style doors that roll up to open the restaurant to

the outdoors. Choose from a great selection of wines by the glass and a limited

menu of appetizers, salads, and panini. There’s a second Postino at 5144 N.

Central Ave. ( 602/274-5144). 3939

E. Campbell Ave. www.postinowinecafe.

com. 602/852-3939.

The Rose and Crown Pub In a

Entertainment & Nightlife

historic Craftsman bungalow on down-

town’s Heritage Square, this place does

a very respectable job of replicating an

English pub. The only real difference

is that when you sit out on the front

porch with your pint of beer, the air is

balmy not damp. I’ll drink to that. 628 E.

Adams St. www.theroseandcrownaz.com.

602/256-0223.

Sun Up Brewing This excellent

little brewpub is a bit hard to spot as

you drive down busy Camelback Road

in central Phoenix, but keep an eye out

on the north side of the road and you’ll

find it. There are usually more than a

half-dozen brews on tap, and the sea-

sonal can be quite distinctive. 322 E.

Camelback Rd. www.sunupbrewing.com.

602/279-8909.

Postino is housed in a former post office.

149

T. Cook’s Lounge

If you aren’t planning on having dinner at this opu-

lent Mediterranean restaurant, at least stop by for a cocktail in the bar. With its

mix of Spanish colonial and 1950s tropical furnishings, this is as romantic a

lounge as you’ll find anywhere in the Valley. You can also snuggle with your

sweetie out on the patio by the fireplace. At the Royal Palms Resort and Spa, 5200 E.

Camelback Rd. www.royalpalmshotel.com. 602/808-0766.

The Vig This midcentury modern tavern in the Arcadia neighborhood is a

great place to escape the resort scene and maybe meet some locals over cocktails.

Best of all, you can even play some bocce ball on the bar’s little artificial lawn.

There’s also a second Vig (Vig Uptown) at 6015 N. 16th St. ( 602/633-1187),

that is just as midcentury modern and cool as the original. 4041 N. 40th St. www.

thevig.us. 602/553-7227.

TEMPE & THE EAST VALLEY

Dave’s Electric Beer This little brewpub started out years ago in Bisbee,

where it was the state’s very first microbrewery. Today, Dave’s pub is across the

4 street from Sun Devil Stadium and is surrounded by the ASU campus. 502 S. Col-

lege Ave., Tempe. www.daveselectricbrewpub.com. 480/967-5353.

Four Peaks Brewing Company Consistently voted the best brewpub in

Phoenix, this Tempe establishment, housed in a former creamery, brews good

beers and serves decent pub grub. Four Peaks is a favorite of ASU students, and

you’ll find the pub south of East University Drive between South Rural Road and

South McClintock Drive. There’s a second Four Peaks in north Scottsdale at

15745 N. Hayden Rd., Ste. D5-7 ( 480/991-1795). 1340 E. 8th St., Tempe. www.

fourpeaks.com. 480/303-9967.

Rula Bula The middle of the desert may seem like an odd place for an Irish

pub, but Rula Bula has such an authentic feel that it’s easy to imagine that it’s

Entertainment & Nightlife damp and dreary outside. There’s live Irish music 2 or 3 nights a week. The pub stays packed primarily with college students. 401 S. Mill Ave., Tempe. www.rulabula.

com. 480/929-9500.

San Tan Brewing Company This brewpub is another of the reasons I like to

hang out in downtown Chandler. With good beer, live music, and walls that roll

back to let the warm Arizona air inside, San Tan Brewing is a fun place to cool off

on a hot day. 8 S. San Marcos Plaza, Chandler. www.santanbrewing.com. 480/917-8700.

COCKTAILS WITH A VIEW

The Valley of the Sun has more than its fair share of spectacular views. Unfortu-

nately, most of them are from expensive restaurants. All these restaurants have

lounges, though, where, for the price of a drink (and perhaps valet parking), you

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

can sit back and ogle a crimson sunset and the purple mountains’ majesty. Among

the best choices are the Terrace Room at Different Pointe of View, at the

Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort; Rustler’s Rooste, at the Arizona Grand

Resort; and both the cozy outdoors edge and the swanky jade bar, at the Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain.

Thirsty Camel Whether you’ve already made your millions or are still working

your way up the corporate ladder, you owe it to yourself to spend a little time in

the lap of luxury. You may never drink in more ostentatious surroundings than

here at Arizona’s most luxurious resort. The view is one of the best in the city. At the Phoenician, 6000 E. Camelback Rd. www.thephoenician.com. 480/941-8200.

150

The Sanctuary on Camelback’s jade bar offers a stunning view of the Valley.

The Wright Bar & Squaw Peak Terrace Can’t afford the lifestyles of the 4

rich and famous? For the cost of a couple of drinks, you can sink into a seat here

at the Biltmore’s main lounge and watch the sunset test its color palette on

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Piestewa Peak. Alternatively, you can slide into a seat near the piano and let the

waves of mellow jazz wash over you. At the Arizona Biltmore, 2400 E. Missouri Ave. www.

arizonabiltmore.com. 602/381-7632.

Live Music & Dance Clubs

COUNTRY

Buffalo Chip Saloon & Steakhouse So you think you’re a studly urban cow-

boy? Well, maybe you’ve never met a mechanical bull you couldn’t ride, but at this

barnlike Cave Creek roadhouse they’ve got genuine rip snortin’ live bull riding. You man enough? There’s live country music Thursday through Saturday nights, all-you-can-eat fish fries featuring walleye, and s’mores on the dessert menu. This place is Entertainment & Nightlife

also popular with Green Bay Packers fans, a lot of whom transplanted themselves to

the Phoenix area after deciding to leave cold winters behind. 6811 E. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek. www.buffalochipsaloon.com. 480/488-9118. No cover.

Handlebar-J This Scottsdale landmark is about as genuine a cowboy bar as

you’ll find in Phoenix, and cowpokes often stop by when they come in from the

ranch. You’ll hear live git-down two-steppin’ music most nights, and free dance

lessons are given Wednesday nights at 6:30pm. 7116 Becker Lane (1 block north of the northwest corner of Scottsdale Rd. and Shea Blvd.), Scottsdale. www.handlebarj.com.

480/948-0110. No cover to $5.

Rusty Spur Saloon A small, rowdy, drinkin’-and-dancin’ place frequented by

tourists, this bar is the oldest saloon in Old Town Scottsdale and is loads of fun,

with peanut shells all over the floor, dollar bills stapled to the walls, and live

country-music afternoons and evenings. If you’re a cowboy or cowgirl at heart,

this is the place to party when you’re in Scottsdale. 7245 E. Main St., Scottsdale. www.

rustyspursaloon.com. 480/425-7787. No cover.

ROCK, BLUES, JAZZ & SALSA

Axis/Radius If you’re looking to do a bit of celebrity-spotting, Axis is one of

the best places in town to keep your eyes peeled. For many years now, this has

been one of Scottsdale’s hottest dance clubs and liveliest singles scenes. The

151

two-story glass box is a bold contempo-

rary space with an awesome sound sys-

tem. These twin clubs are open

Thursday through Saturday. 7340 E.

Indian Plaza (2 blocks east of Scottsdale Rd.

and 1 block south of Camelback Rd.),

Scottsdale. www.axis-radius.com. 480/

970-1112. Cover $10.

Char’s Has the Blues You wouldn’t

think to look at this little cottage, but it Axis/Radius.

really does have those mean-and-dirty,

low-down blues. All of the best blues

brothers and sisters from around the city and around the country make the scene

here. 4631 N. 7th Ave., 4 blocks south of Camelback Rd. www.charshastheblues.com.

602/230-0205. No cover to $6.

4 Geordie’s at the Wrigley Mansion Open only Thursday through Satur-

day nights, this lounge is inside the historic Wrigley Mansion, which was built

between 1929 and 1931 by chewing-gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr. The

sprawling mansion is located on a hilltop adjacent to the Arizona Biltmore resort.

Come for the sparkling city lights after dark. 2501 E. Telawa Trail. www.wrigleymansion club.com. 602/955-4079. No cover.

Myst Always packed to the walls with the Valley’s beautiful people, Myst is

one of the top nightclubs in Scottsdale to see and be seen. The atmosphere is

lavishly ostentatious, with various themed rooms. The club is usually open

Thursday through Saturday. 7340 E. Shoeman Lane, Scottsdale. www.mystaz.com.

480/970-5000. Cover $10.

Pepin Friday and Saturday starting at 10pm, a DJ plays Latin dance music at

Entertainment & Nightlife this small Spanish restaurant located on the Scottsdale Mall. Friday and Saturday evenings, there are also live flamenco performances. 7363 Scottsdale Mall,

Scottsdale. www.pepinrestaurant.com. 480/990-9026. Cover $10.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Myst nightclub.

152

The Rhythm Room This blues club, long the Valley’s most popular, books

quite a few national acts as well as the best of the local scene, and has a dance

floor if you want to move to the beat. 1019 E. Indian School Rd. www.rhythmroom.com.

602/265-4842. No cover to $30.

The LGBT Scene

Amsterdam Bar This downtown Phoenix nightclub complex may not look

like much from the outside, but through the doors, you’ll find a classy spot that’s

known across the Valley for its great martinis. There’s usually a drag show or

female impersonator 1 night of the week, and other nights, live music or DJ

dance music plays. 718 N. Central Ave. 602/258-6122. No cover.

BS West In business since 1988, this bar is open daily from 2pm to 2am. Cur-

rently Sundays are karaoke night, and on Friday nights, female impersonators

strut their stuff. There are also nightly specials. 7125 E. Fifth Ave., Scottsdale. www.

bswest.com. 480/945-9028. No cover to $3.

Charlie’s If you’re a cowpoke and want to do some boot scootin’ while you’re in

town, head on over to Charlie’s. This club is the home of the Arizona Gay Rodeo 4

Association, and there’s country music, two-step and line-dance lessons, and an

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

after-hours scene on the weekends. 727 W. Camelback Rd. www.charliesphoenix.com.

602/265-0224. No cover to $3.

Casinos

Casino Arizona at Talking Stick Resort Operated by the Salt River

Pima–Maricopa Indian Community, this is the most conveniently located casino

in the area. Just off U.S. 101 on the east side of Scottsdale, it offers plenty of slot machines, cards, and other games of chance. There’s also a second casino,

Casino Arizona at Salt River, at U.S.

101 and McKellips Road. U.S. 101 and

Indian Bend Rd. www.casinoaz.com. 480/

850-7777.

Entertainment & Nightlife

Fort McDowell Casino Located

about 45 minutes northeast of down-

town Scottsdale, this Indian casino is

the oldest in the state, offering slot

machines, poker, keno, bingo, and free

shuttles from locations around the Val-

ley. There’s also a very attractive resort

hotel here. 10424 N. Fort McDowell Rd.,

Fort McDowell (off Ariz. 87, 2 miles northeast

of Shea Blvd. and Fountain Hil s). www.

fortmcdowel casino.com. 800/843-3678.

Spectator Sports

Phoenix is nuts for pro sports and is

one of the few cities in the country

with teams for all four of the major

sports (baseball, basketball, football,

and hockey). Add to this baseball’s

spring training, professional women’s Casino Arizona.

153

basketball, golf and tennis tournaments, the annual Fiesta Bowl college football

classic, and ASU football, basketball, and baseball, and you have enough action

to keep even the most rabid sports fans happy. The all-around best month to visit

is March, when you could feasibly catch baseball’s spring training, the Suns, the

Coyotes, and ASU basketball and baseball.

Call Ticketmaster ( 866/448-7849 or 800/745-3000; www.ticket

master.com) for tickets to most of the events below. For sold-out events, try Tickets Unlimited ( 800/289-8497 or 602/840-2340; www.ticketsunlimitedinc.

com) or Ticket Exchange ( 800/800-9811; www.ticketexchangeusa.com).

AUTO RACING At the Phoenix International Raceway, 7602 S. Avondale

Blvd. at Baseline Road, Avondale ( 866/408-7223; www.phoenixintlrace

way.com), there’s NASCAR and Indy Car racing on the world’s fastest

1-mile oval. Tickets generally range from around $35 to $120.

BASEBALL The

Arizona Diamondbacks ( 602/462-6500; www.diamond

backs.com) have a devoted fan base and regularly pack downtown Phoenix’s

4

impressive Chase Field. The ballpark’s retractable roof allows for comfort-

able play during the blistering summers and makes this one of only a few

enclosed baseball stadiums with natural grass. Tickets to ballgames are avail-

able through the Chase Field ticket office and cost between $8 and $150.

The best seats are in sections J and Q. If you’d like to get a behind-the-scenes

look at Chase Field, you can take a guided tour. Tours cost $7 for adults, $5

for seniors and children ages 7 to 12, and $3 for children ages 4 to 6.

For decades, baseball’s spring-training season has been immensely

popular, especially with fans from northern teams, and don’t think that the

Cactus League’s preseason exhibition games are any less popular just

because the Diamondbacks play all summer. Spring-training games may

rank second only to golf in popularity with winter visitors to the Valley. Fif-

Entertainment & Nightlife

teen major-league baseball teams have spring-training camps around the Val-

ley in the month of March, and exhibition games are scheduled at 10

different stadiums. Most ticket prices range from $6 and $40. Get a sched-

ule from a visitor center, check the Arizona Republic while you’re in town, or check the website of the Cactus League (www.cactusleague.com). Games

often sell out, especially on weekends, so be sure to order tickets in advance.

Teams training in the Valley include the Arizona Diamondbacks,

Salt River Fields at Talking Stick, 7555 N. Pima Rd., Scottsdale ( 888/490-

0383 or 480/270-5000; www.dbacks.com); the Chicago Cubs, HoHoKam

Stadium, 1235 N. Center St., Mesa ( 800/905-3315 or 480/964-4467;

www.chicagocubs.com); the Chicago White Sox, Camelback Ranch,

10710 W. Camelback Rd., Glendale ( 623/877-8585; www.chicagowhite

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

sox.com); the Cincinnati Reds, Goodyear Ballpark, 1933 S. Ballpark Way,

Goodyear ( 623/882-3120; www.cincinnatireds.com); the Cleveland

Indians, Goodyear Ballpark, 1933 S. Ballpark Way, Goodyear ( 623/882-

3120; www.clevelandindians.com); the Colorado Rockies, Salt River

Fields at Talking Stick, 7555 N. Pima Rd., Scottsdale ( 480/270-5000;

www.coloradorockies.com); the Kansas City Royals, Surprise Stadium,

15960 N. Bullard Ave., Surprise ( 623/594-5600 or 623/222-2222; www.

kcroyals.com); the Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim, Tempe Diablo Sta-

dium, 2200 W. Alameda Dr. (48th St. and Broadway Rd.), Tempe ( 480/

350-5205; www.angelsbaseball.com); the Los Angeles Dodgers, Camel-

back Ranch, 10710 W. Camelback Rd., Glendale ( 623/877-8585;

154

www.losangelesdodgers.com); the Milwaukee Brewers, Maryvale Base-

ball Park, 3600 N. 51st Ave., Phoenix ( 602/534-6449; www.milwaukee

brewers.com); the Oakland Athletics, Phoenix Municipal Stadium, 5999

E. Van Buren St., Phoenix ( 602/392-0074; www.oaklandathletics.com);

the San Diego Padres, Peoria Sports Complex, 16101 N. 83rd Ave., Peo-

ria ( 623/773-8700 or 623/773-8720; www.padres.com); the San Fran-

cisco Giants, Scottsdale Stadium, 7408 E. Osborn Rd., Scottsdale ( 800/

225-2277 or 480/312-2856; www.sfgiants.com); the Seattle Mariners,

Peoria Sports Complex, 16101 N. 83rd Ave., Peoria ( 623/773-8700 or

623/8720; www.seattlemariners.com); and the Texas Rangers, Surprise

Stadium, 15960 N. Bullard Ave., Surprise ( 623/594-5600 or 623/222-

2222; www.texasrangers.com).

BASKETBALL The NBA’s Phoenix Suns play at the US Airways Center, 201 E.

Jefferson St. ( 602/379-7867; www.suns.com). Most tickets cost

between $10 and $129. Suns tickets are hard to come by; if you haven’t

planned ahead, try contacting the box office the day before or the day of a

game to see if tickets have been returned. Otherwise, you’ll have to try the 4

team’s ticket exchange website or a ticket agency and pay a premium.

Phoenix also has a WNBA team, the Phoenix Mercury ( 602/252-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

9622 or 602/379-7900; www.phoenixmercury.com), which plays at the US

Airways Center between May and August. Ticket prices run from around

$10 to $200.

FOOTBALL The

Arizona Cardinals ( 800/999-1402 or 602/379-0102;

www.azcardinals.com) play at the state-of-the-art University of Phoenix Sta-

dium in the west Valley city of Glendale. This stadium has a retractable roof

made of translucent fabric that lets lots of light in when the roof is closed.

However, the stadium’s most distinctive feature is its movable playing field,

which is rolled out into the sun outside the stadium until a game is sched-

uled. This 2-acre, grass-covered tray is the first of its kind in North America.

Ticket prices range from $50 to $445, and single-game tickets for the entire

Entertainment & Nightlife

season go on sale in late July. Tickets can be purchased through Ticketmas-

ter ( 800/745-3000; www.ticketmaster.com).

GOLF TOURNAMENTS It’s not surprising that, with more than 200 golf courses

and ideal golfing weather throughout the fall, winter, and spring, the Valley

of the Sun hosts one of the nation’s top golf tournaments—late January’s

Waste Management Phoenix Open Golf Tournament ( 602/870-

0163; www.wastemanagementphoenixopen.com). Held at the Tournament

Players Club (TPC) of Scottsdale, it attracts more spectators than any other

golf tournament in the world (usually more than 500,000 each year). The

18th hole has standing room for 40,000. Tickets start at $25.

HOCKEY Ice hockey in the desert? It may not make sense, but even Phoeni-

cians are crazy about ice hockey (maybe it’s all those northern transplants).

The NHL’s Phoenix Coyotes ( 480/563-7825; www.phoenixcoyotes.

com) plays at the state-of-the-art Jobing.com Arena in Glendale (northwest

of downtown Phoenix). Tickets cost $40 to $355.

HORSE RACING Turf Paradise, 1501 W. Bell Rd. ( 602/942-1101; www.

turfparadise.com), is Phoenix’s horse-racing track. The season runs from

early October to early May. Admission ranges from free to $5.

155

RODEOS, POLO & HORSE SHOWS Cowboys, cowgirls, and other horsy types

will find plenty of the four-legged critters going through their paces most

weeks at WestWorld of Scottsdale, 16601 N. Pima Rd., Scottsdale

( 480/312-6802; www.scottsdaleaz.gov/westworld). With its hundreds

of stables, numerous equestrian arenas, and a polo field, this complex pro-

vides an amazing variety of entertainment and sporting events. There are

rodeos, polo matches, and horse shows.

WHERE TO STAY

Because the Phoenix area has long been popular as a winter refuge from cold and

snow, it now has one of the greatest concentrations of resorts in the continental

United States. However, even with all the hotel rooms here, sunshine and baseball’s

spring training combine to make it hard to find a room on short notice between Feb-

ruary and April. If you plan to visit during these months, make your reservations as far in advance as possible. Also keep in mind that in late winter and early spring, the 4 Phoenix metro area has some of the highest room rates in the country.

Most resorts offer a variety of weekend, golf, and tennis packages, as well as

off-season discounts, AAA or AARP discounts, and corporate rates (which you

can often get just by asking). I give the official “rack rates,” or walk-in rates,

below, but it always pays to ask about special discounts or packages. Sometimes

you can get a lower rate just by asking. Business hotels downtown and near the

e to Stay

airport often lower their rates on weekends. Also, don’t forget to check hotel web-

sites for special deals.

Wher

If you’re looking to save even more money, consider traveling during the

shoulder seasons of late spring and early fall. If you’ll be traveling with children, always ask whether your child will be able to stay free in your room, and whether

there’s a limit on the number of children who can stay free.

While most people dreaming of a Phoenix vacation have visions of luxury

resorts dancing in their heads, there are some bed-and-breakfasts around the

Valley. Mi Casa Su Casa ( 800/456-0682 or 480/990-0682; www.azres.

com) can book you into dozens of different homes in the Valley of the Sun, as can

Arizona Trails Travel Services ( 888/799-4284 or 480/837-4284; www.

arizonatrails.com), which also books tour and hotel reservations.

With the exception of valet-parking services and parking garages at down-

town convention hotels, parking is free at most Phoenix hotels. If there is a park-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

ing charge, I have noted it. You’ll find that all hotels have nonsmoking rooms and

all but the cheapest have wheelchair-accessible rooms.

Scottsdale

With half a dozen or so resorts lined up along Scottsdale Road, the city of Scott-

sdale is the center of the Valley’s resort scene. And because Scottsdale is also the Valley’s main shopping and dining district, this is the most convenient place to

stay if you’re here to eat and shop. However, traffic in Scottsdale is bad, the landscape at most resorts is flat (compared with the hillside settings in north Scotts-

dale), and you don’t get much of a feel for the desert.

VERY EXPENSIVE

Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Gainey Ranch

From the colonnades of palm trees to the lobby walls that slide away, this

156

luxurious resort is designed to impress and continues to be my favorite Scottsdale

resort. It’s relatively close to downtown Scottsdale and has interesting architec-

ture, beautiful grounds, and a large spa. What’s not to love? A 21⁄2-acre water

playground serves as the resort’s focal point, and the extravagant complex of 10

swimming pools includes a water slide, sand beach, and a huge whirlpool spa.

Guest rooms are just as luxurious as the surroundings would suggest. The resort’s

Alto ristorante e bar features after-dinner gondola rides. The resort’s Native

American Learning Center provides a glimpse into Sonoran Desert culture and

ecology. Children’s programs make this a super choice for families.

7500 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85258. www.scottsdale.hyatt.com. 800/554-9288 or 480/444-1234. Fax 480/483-5550. 493 units. Jan to mid-May $399 double, from $900

suite and casita; mid-May to mid-Sept $129 double, from $500 suite and casita; mid-Sept to Dec $289 double, from $900 suite and casita. Rates do not include $20 resort fee. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $27. Pets accepted ($50

fee). Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; 27-hole golf course; health club & spa; 4 Jacuzzis; 10 pools; room service; 4 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($5–$15 per day).

4

JW Marriott Camelback Inn Resort & Spa

Set at the foot of

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Mummy Mountain and overlooking Camelback Mountain, the Camelback Inn,

which opened in 1936, is one of the grande dames of the Phoenix hotel scene

and abounds in traditional Southwestern character. Forget the glitz of the Phoe-

nician (see below); this legendary retreat gives you old-school luxury with 21st-

century enhancements. The two 18-hole golf courses are a magnet for golfers,

and the spa is among the finest in the state. An extensive pool complex appeals

to families. Guest rooms, which are spread over the sloping grounds, are deco-

rated with Southwestern furnishings and art, and all have balconies or patios.

Some rooms even have private pools. This is an old-money getaway that seam-

lessly melds tradition with modern amenities.

5402 E. Lincoln Dr., Scottsdale, AZ 85253. www.camelbackinn.com. 800/242-2635 or

480/948-1700. Fax 480/951-8469. 453 units. Jan to early June $299–$549 double, $570–$2,500

Wher

suite; early June to early Sept $179–$199 double, $260–$900 suite; early Sept to Dec $349–$459

double, $595–$1,700 suite. Rates do not include $13 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay e to Stay

free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Small pets accepted (fee varies). Amenities: 7

restaurants; 2 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; two 18-hole golf courses; health club; 4 Jacuzzis; 2 pools; room service; full-service spa; 6 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

Montelucia Resort & Spa

With the red rocks of Camelback Moun-

tain looming overhead and architecture inspired by Spain’s fabled Alhambra, this

resort is one of Arizona’s prettiest getaways. There are splashing fountains, a res-

taurant serving excellent Mediterranean cuisine, and a spa inspired by the ham-

mams (public baths) of Morocco. Guest rooms continue the Spanish/Moroccan

themes and are divided into five different “villages.” If you like peace and quiet,

ask for a room in the Bocce Garden Village (and have a bocce court right outside

your door). Night owls should opt for a room in the Kasbah Village, which is close

to the open-air lounge and the main pool. Throughout the property, you’ll see

fascinating Spanish antiquities, including two giant amphorae in the entry

157

Bell Rd.

.

Bell Rd.

d

10

Fr

Turf Paradise

a

Aloft Tempe 27

To Flagstaff

R

51

n

11

k L

.

W

Phoenix, Scottsdale &

Racetrack

k

r

lo

ig

y

h

d

Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa 7

.

e

e

t B

Greenway Rd.

e

Greenway Rd.

l

e

v

.t

vd

9

.

v

t.

the Valley of the Sun

Arizona Grand Resort 31

ay

h A

d.

.

t

d

Hotels

Best Western InnSuites Phoenix

Thunderbird Rd.

h A

9

t

reew

1

h S

Cave Cr

Thunderbird Rd.

5

t

.

d.

Biltmore/Scottsdale 2

Sweetwater Ave.

3

7

d

Sweetwater Ave.

0

3 mi

Best Western Papago Inn & Resort 26

Cactus Rd.

North Mountain

Cactus Rd.

anyon F

.

e R

Best Western Sundial Resort 21

PEORIA

Preserve

t

l

0

3 km

a

ayden R

A

1

32nd S

d

H

The Buttes, A Marriott Resort 30

riz

h S

s

Peoria Rd.

o

Shea Blvd.

t

t

n

t

Shea Blvd.

a

6

o

Camelback Inn, A JW Marriott Resort

Black C

5

Invergordon R

cS

Canal

m R

& Spa 14

u

12

Dunlap Ave.

t

Dreamy Draw

a Doubletree Ranch Rd.

The Clarendon Hotel 4

T

Flagstaff

Park

GLENDALE

8

ARIZONA

Clarion Hotel Scottsdale 19

Northern Ave.

Phoenix

2

ay Phoenix Mountains

101

Crowne Plaza San Marcos Golf

Preserve

PARADISE VALLEY

To Wickenburg

17

Tucson

Resort 34

G

.

Piestewa Peak

r

Freew

a

Glendale Ave.

e

Days Inn Scottsdale Resort at Fashion

n

v

Park

Indian Bend Rd.

d A

14

13

Square Mall 18

v

Maryland Ave.

a

Li

e

ncoln Dr.

. Bethany Home Rd.

.

7

Dobson Ranch Inn & Resort 33

e

McDonald Dr.

v

.

6

15

16

d

Embassy Suites Biltmore 5

Missouri Ave.

t.

Piestew

t.

Camelback Mountain/

3

5

19

Extended Stay Deluxe Phoenix-

Camelback Rd.

h A

Echo Canyon Recreation Area

t

l A

Freeway

9

a

17

20

Biltmore 3

60

1

rt

.

18

21

a R

To Payson

.

n

t.

t

Camelback Rd.

24th S

32nd S

t.

22

mi

Pima

Fairmont Scottsdale 10

Indian School Rd.

e

e

v

C

t.

P

.

.

t

Indian School Rd.

Gr

Canal

24 23

Fiesta Resort Conference Center 29

Osborn Rd. and

4

87

h S

Osborn Rd.

25

.

Rd

.

h A

t

d

d

d.

wy.

FireSky Resort & Spa 20

Thomas Rd.

t

6

t.

t.

R

.

7

1

.

56th S

t

Thomas Rd.

e

The Hermosa Inn 6

v

h S

DOWNTOWN

64th S

A

ve.

t

51

SCOTTSDALE

4

Dobson

Beeline H

40th S

4

48th S

Hotel Valley Ho 25

McDowell Rd.

PHOENIX

52nd S

r

e R

Papago Freeway

R

26 l

e

McDowell Rd.

e

Hyatt Place Scottsdale Old Town 22

202

d

l

10

10

a

i

M

Papago

d

ayden R

To

h S

Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort

10

o

t

s

M

H

t

Los Angeles

u

Park

8

t

n

o Van Buren S

.

Van Buren St.

6

t.

McKellips Rd.

& Spa at Gainey Ranch 12

e

Sky Harbor

t

c

a

v

h t

Washington

St.

S

i

A

5

International Airport

n

202

JW Marriott Desert Ridge Resort

3

27th A 17

.

143

River

r

MESA

Buckeye Rd.

Freeway

85

27

Salt

202

.

& Spa 11

Maricopa Freeway

b D

r.

r

m . .

D

D

Maricopa Manor 2

a

r

u

28

l

k y

h

p

University Dr.

Montelucia Resort & Spa 15

t

o x

9

.

.

e

t

h E

y C

5

v

S

o

Apache Blvd.

rt

Main St.

The Phoenician 18

River

A

H

TEMPE

n

y

10

.

u

el

Salt

p

Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort 8

.

e

Broadway Rd.

o

29

esa

a

e

t.

t.

v

C

t

v

ve.

Ave.

30

t D

Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort 1

s

M

S

101

e

l A

i

li

Southern Ave.

r

M

Southern Ave.

Royal Palms Resort and Spa 17

d A

P

r

h

Superstition Freeway

The Saguaro 23

3

t

60

60

4

7

24th S

l

32nd S

33

Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain 16

Baseline Rd.

art

Baseline Rd.

ne

Scottsdale Resort & Athletic Club 13

31

.

19th A

7th

C

y

.

Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort

e

Guadalupe

a

Rd.

v

Dobbins Rd.

d

d.

.

we

.

r

e

d

.

.

& Spa 32

r

10

R

e

d

v

Rd.

Tempe Mission Palms Hotel 28

Elliot Rd.

y

Elliot Rd.

Fe

l R

a

ci

o

Travelodge Scottsdale 24

w

r

o

e

P

h

87

er

k D

c

Westin Kierland Resort & Spa 9

Estrel

PHOENIX SOUTH

Warner Rd. c

.

t A

a Dr.

F

o

d

n

a

t

a A

n R

s

Rural R

o

MOUNTAIN PARK

p

ni

s

n

ee

1

o

l

101

b

oz

u

5

c

C

i

e R

o

i

To Tucson 32

r

c

ci

D

a S 34

r

Q

a Ray Rd.

Cooper

M

r

m

c

l

A

M

P

A

M

158

Bell Rd.

.

Bell Rd.

d

10

Fr

Turf Paradise

a

Aloft Tempe 27

To Flagstaff

R

51

n

11

k L

.

W

Phoenix, Scottsdale &

Racetrack

k

r

lo

ig

y

h

d

Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa 7

.

e

e

t B

Greenway Rd.

e

Greenway Rd.

l

e

v

.t

vd

9

.

v

t.

the Valley of the Sun

Arizona Grand Resort 31

ay

h A

d.

.

t

d

Hotels

Best Western InnSuites Phoenix

Thunderbird Rd.

h A

9

t

reew

1

h S

Cave Cr

Thunderbird Rd.

5

t

.

d.

Biltmore/Scottsdale 2

Sweetwater Ave.

3

7

d

Sweetwater Ave.

0

3 mi

Best Western Papago Inn & Resort 26

Cactus Rd.

North Mountain

Cactus Rd.

anyon F

.

e R

Best Western Sundial Resort 21

PEORIA

Preserve

t

l

0

3 km

a

ayden R

A

1

32nd S

d

H

The Buttes, A Marriott Resort 30

riz

h S

s

Peoria Rd.

o

Shea Blvd.

t

t

n

t

Shea Blvd.

a

6

o

Camelback Inn, A JW Marriott Resort

Black C

5

Invergordon R

cS

Canal

m R

& Spa 14

u

12

Dunlap Ave.

t

Dreamy Draw

a Doubletree Ranch Rd.

The Clarendon Hotel 4

T

Flagstaff

Park

GLENDALE

8

ARIZONA

Clarion Hotel Scottsdale 19

Northern Ave.

Phoenix

2

ay Phoenix Mountains

101

Crowne Plaza San Marcos Golf

Preserve

PARADISE VALLEY

To Wickenburg

17

Tucson

Resort 34

G

.

Piestewa Peak

r

Freew

a

Glendale Ave.

e

Days Inn Scottsdale Resort at Fashion

n

v

Park

Indian Bend Rd.

d A

14

13

Square Mall 18

v

Maryland Ave.

a

Li

e

ncoln Dr.

. Bethany Home Rd.

.

7

Dobson Ranch Inn & Resort 33

e

McDonald Dr.

v

.

6

15

16

d

Embassy Suites Biltmore 5

Missouri Ave.

t.

Piestew

t.

Camelback Mountain/

3

5

19

Extended Stay Deluxe Phoenix-

Camelback Rd.

h A

Echo Canyon Recreation Area

t

l A

Freeway

9

a

17

20

Biltmore 3

60

1

rt

.

18

21

a R

To Payson

.

n

t.

t

Camelback Rd.

24th S

32nd S

t.

22

mi

Pima

Fairmont Scottsdale 10

Indian School Rd.

e

e

v

C

t.

P

.

.

t

Indian School Rd.

Gr

Canal

24 23

Fiesta Resort Conference Center 29

Osborn Rd. and

4

87

h S

Osborn Rd.

25

.

Rd

.

h A

t

d

d

d.

wy.

FireSky Resort & Spa 20

Thomas Rd.

t

6

t.

t.

R

.

7

1

.

56th S

t

Thomas Rd.

e

The Hermosa Inn 6

v

h S

DOWNTOWN

64th S

A

ve.

t

51

SCOTTSDALE

4

Dobson

Beeline H

40th S

4

48th S

Hotel Valley Ho 25

McDowell Rd.

PHOENIX

52nd S

r

e R

Papago Freeway

R

26 l

e

McDowell Rd.

e

Hyatt Place Scottsdale Old Town 22

202

d

l

10

10

a

i

M

Papago

d

ayden R

To

h S

Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort

10

o

t

s

M

H

t

Los Angeles

u

Park

8

t

n

o Van Buren S

.

Van Buren St.

6

t.

McKellips Rd.

& Spa at Gainey Ranch 12

e

Sky Harbor

t

c

a

v

h t

Washington

St.

S

i

A

5

International Airport

n

202

JW Marriott Desert Ridge Resort

3

27th A 17

.

143

River

r

MESA

Buckeye Rd.

Freeway

85

27

Salt

202

.

& Spa 11

Maricopa Freeway

b D

r.

r

m . .

D

D

Maricopa Manor 2

a

r

u

28

l

k y

h

p

University Dr.

Montelucia Resort & Spa 15

t

o x

9

.

.

e

t

h E

y C

5

v

S

o

Apache Blvd.

rt

Main St.

The Phoenician 18

River

A

H

TEMPE

n

y

10

.

u

el

Salt

p

Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort 8

.

e

Broadway Rd.

o

29

esa

a

e

t.

t.

v

C

t

v

ve.

Ave.

30

t D

Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort 1

s

M

S

101

e

l A

i

li

Southern Ave.

r

M

Southern Ave.

Royal Palms Resort and Spa 17

d A

P

r

h

Superstition Freeway

The Saguaro 23

3

t

60

60

4

7

24th S

l

32nd S

33

Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain 16

Baseline Rd.

art

Baseline Rd.

ne

Scottsdale Resort & Athletic Club 13

31

.

19th A

7th

C

y

.

Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort

e

Guadalupe

a

Rd.

v

Dobbins Rd.

d

d.

.

we

.

r

e

d

.

.

& Spa 32

r

10

R

e

d

v

Rd.

Tempe Mission Palms Hotel 28

Elliot Rd.

y

Elliot Rd.

Fe

l R

a

ci

o

Travelodge Scottsdale 24

w

r

o

e

P

h

87

er

k D

c

Westin Kierland Resort & Spa 9

Estrel

PHOENIX SOUTH

Warner Rd. c

.

t A

a Dr.

F

o

d

n

a

t

a A

n R

s

Rural R

o

MOUNTAIN PARK

p

ni

s

n

ee

1

o

l

101

b

oz

u

5

c

C

i

e R

o

i

To Tucson 32

r

c

ci

D

a S 34

r

Q

a Ray Rd.

Cooper

M

r

m

c

l

A

M

P

A

M

159

courtyard and huge wooden doors that lead to the resort’s ballroom. Not too big,

not too small, Montelucia is just right.

4949 E. Lincoln Dr., Paradise Valley, AZ 85253. www.montelucia.com. 888/627-3010 or 480/

627-3200. 293 units. Jan–Apr $395–$845 double, $695–$4,000 suite; May to mid-June and mid-Sept to Dec $245–$625 double, $545–$3,000 suite; mid-June to mid-Sept $145–$425 double, $345–$2,000 suite. Rates do not include $25 daily resort fee. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $27; self-parking $10. Pets accepted ($100

fee). Amenities: 5 restaurants; snack bar; 2 lounges; babysitting; concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; 2 Jacuzzis; 3 pools; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

The Phoenician

Situated on 250 acres at the foot of Camelback

Mountain, this palatial getaway is one of the world’s finest resorts. So, if you must stay at the very best, this is it. Polished marble and sparkling crystal abound in

the lobby, but the view through a wall of glass is what commands most guests’

attention when they first arrive. The resort has a classic, international character, 4 and service is second to none. The pool complex, with its water slide for the kids, is irresistibly seductive, and the resort’s Centre for Well Being offers all the spa pampering anyone could ever want. There are also 27 holes of golf. The luxurious

guest rooms have large patios and sunken tubs for two. For the ultimate in luxury,

book a room in the Canyon Suites, a separate boutique hotel within the resort.

J&G Steakhouse is operated by Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

e to Stay

6000 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.thephoenician.com. 800/888-8234 or 480/941-8200. Fax 480/947-4311. 643 units. Jan–May from $509 double, from $909 suite; June to Wher mid-Sept from $239 double, from $489 suite; mid-Sept to Dec from $419 double, from $819

suite. Rates do not include $29 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room.

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $29. Pets accepted. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 4 snack bars/

cafes; 5 lounges; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; concierge-level suites; 27-hole golf course; health club and spa; 2 Jacuzzis; 9 pools; room service; 11 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/

DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain

This visually breathtaking

place was the Valley’s first hip resort, and I still like the contemporary rooms here better than those at other hip hotels around town. Located high on the northern

flanks of Camelback Mountain, the lushly landscaped property has unforgettable

views across the Valley, especially from its restaurant and bar. The extremely spa-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

cious guest rooms are divided between the more conservative deluxe casitas and

the boldly contemporary spa casitas. With their dyed-cement floors, L-shaped

couches, and streamline-modern cabinetry, these latter units are absolutely stun-

ning. Bathrooms are huge, and some have private outdoor soaking tubs. The

resort’s spa is gorgeous. So seductive is this resort that it has become a favorite of celebrities.

5700 E. McDonald Dr., Paradise Valley, AZ 85253. www.sanctuaryaz.com. 800/245-2051 or 480/948-2100. 105 units. Jan to mid-May and late Dec $499–$549 double, $599–$699 suite; mid-May to mid-Sept $259–$339 double, $369–$439 suite; mid-Sept to mid-Dec $379–$419 double, $459–$529 suite. Rates do not include $18 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($100 fee). Amenities: Restaurant, elements (review, p. 117); 1 lounge; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; 3 Jacuzzis; 4 pools; room service; full-service spa; 5 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/

DVD, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

160

EXPENSIVE

Hotel Valley Ho

This Scottsdale hotel dates back to the 1950s, but in

2005, it got a complete face-lift. What a looker it is now. The Valley Ho is one of

my favorite Scottsdale hotels; it’s hip and convenient, and has loads of outdoor

space for soaking up the sun. I love the big rooms, which are done in a bold con-

temporary style. The studio rooms are my favorites; they have curtains to parti-

tion off the vanity area and an ultracool free-standing tub. Big balconies and

patios provide plenty of space for lounging outdoors. When it’s time to get even

more relaxed, grab one of the plush, circular lounge chairs at the pool.

6850 E. Main St., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.hotelvalleyho.com. 866/882-4484 or 480/248-2000. Fax 480/248-2002. 231 units. Jan–Apr $229–$309 double, $399–$999 suite; May and Sept $159–$259 double, $289–$689 suite; June–Aug $99–$179 double, $199–$399 suite; Oct–Dec $159–$259 double, $329–$729 suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $14. Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 lounges; bikes; concierge; executive-level rooms; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; pool; room service; full-service spa.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10–$15 per day).

Hyatt Place Scottsdale/Old Town

4

With a great location in the heart of

downtown Scottsdale, this hip business hotel is well worth choosing even if

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

you’re in town on vacation. The guest rooms are all spacious suites done in a

homey, contemporary style with separate sitting and sleeping areas and 42-inch

wall-hung flat-panel TVs that can be angled to either area. Unusual features

include electronic self-service check-in kiosks and a tiny lounge area to one side

of the lobby. You can even get a light meal here if you don’t feel like going out to a restaurant for dinner.

7300 E. 3rd Ave., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.hyattplace.com. 888/492-8847 or 480/423-9944.

Fax 480/423-2991. 127 units. $99–$329 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

The Saguaro With a great location right on the green lawns of the Scotts-

Wher

dale Mall in the middle of Old Town Scottsdale, the Saguaro is hip without being

pretentious. Throughout the hotel, bright colors conjure up images of Mexican

e to Stay

getaways, while everywhere you look, there are kitschy midcentury modern refer-

ences, from old issues of Arizona Highways to old Southwestern photos and vintage cameras. Guest rooms are set around two courtyards, both of which have

swimming pools and are shaded by mature royal palms. The main pool is long

and narrow and perfect for doing laps, while the second has a noisy fountain cas-

cading water into it. Guestrooms, with their long narrow counters, curtained

walls, and splashes of bright colors, are distinctively different and decidedly fun.

With all this color, a great pool area, and a convenient location, this place makes

a great base for exploring the area.

4000 N. Drinkwater Blvd., Scottsdale, AZ. http://thesaguaro.com. 877/808-2440 or 480/308-1100. Fax 480/308-1200. 195 units. Jan–Mar $215–$287 double, $305–$728 suite; June–Sept and Dec $98–$170 double, $188–$593 suite; Oct–Nov and Apr–May $170–$260 double, $260–$656

suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Parking $14. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 lounges; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Westin Kierland Resort & Spa

A convenient location and a dis-

tinct sense of place make this one of my favorite Phoenix-area resorts. Located

161

just off Scottsdale Road adjacent to the Kierland Commons shopping center, the

resort features artwork by Arizona artists, numerous interpretive plaques, and

historical photos that provide insight into Arizona’s cultural and natural history.

Guest rooms all have balconies or patios, and you should be sure to request a

room overlooking the golf course. Of course, there are also Westin’s incredibly

comfortable pillow-top mattresses. Excellent Nuevo Latino cuisine is served at

deseo (p. 116), and there’s a great cowboy-style bar as well. The main pool area

includes a long tubing river, a water slide, and a beach area. The bagpiper at sun-

set is not to be missed.

6902 E. Greenway Pkwy., Scottsdale, AZ 85254. www.kierlandresort.com. 800/937-8461 or 480/624-1000. Fax 480/624-1001. 732 units. Jan–Mar $289–$699 double; Apr–June $239–$489

double; July to mid-Sept $149–$349 double; mid-Sept to Dec $239–$529 double. Rates do not include $25 daily resort fee. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Valet parking $27. Pets accepted. Amenities: 10 restaurants, including deseo (p. 116); 4 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; 27-hole golf course; health club and full-service spa; 3 Jacuzzis; 4 pools; room service; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, 4 TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

MODERATE

Best Western Plus Sundial Resort Throw away any preconceived ideas

you have about Best Western hotels; this conveniently located little resort boasts

boldly contemporary styling in its guest rooms. There are black granite counters

e to Stay

and wall-hung TVs. A wide variety of room types provide plenty of options.

Twelve rooms use signs of the zodiac for their theme, and other rooms have in-

Wher room whirlpool tubs set under walls of glass block. There are suites with sun-

rooms and large patios and high-ceilinged “bungalow”-style rooms. Old Town

Scottsdale is about a 20-minute walk away, and the Waterfront, the gallery dis-

trict, and Scottsdale Fashion Square are even closer.

7320 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.bestwesternarizona.com. 800/937-8376

or 480/994-4170. Fax 480/659-3925. 54 units. Oct–Apr $150–$230 double, $210–$310 suite; May–

Sept $80–$130 double, $150–$200 suite. Rates include full breakfast. Children 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night). Amenities: Concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

FireSky Resort & Spa

An exceptional location in the heart of the Scott-

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

sdale shopping district, a dramatic Southwestern contemporary styling (the focal

point of the lobby is an impressive sandstone fireplace), and a small but well-

designed pool area are the main reasons I like this little resort. Set in a lushly

planted courtyard are a small lagoon-style pool, complete with sand beach and

waterfall, and a second pool with flame-topped columnar waterfalls. An artificial

stream and faux sandstone ruins add up to a lush desert fantasy landscape

(although not on the grand scale to be found at some area resorts). The guest

rooms are quite comfortable, and there’s a pretty little spa on the premises.

4925 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.fireskyresort.com. 800/528-7867 or 480/945-7666. Fax 480/946-4056. 204 units. Jan to mid-Apr $219 double, $599 suite; mid-Apr to May $159 double, $499 suite; June–Aug $109 double, $325 suite; Sept–Dec $169 double, $499

suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bikes; concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; 2 pools; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10 per day).

162

Scottsdale Resort & Athletic Club

Fitness fanatics, rejoice; this

club’s for you. If you can’t stand the thought of giving up your workout just

because you’re on vacation, book a stay at this little boutique hotel (and time-

share resort) just off busy Scottsdale Road and adjacent to the Silverado Golf

Course. With standard rooms and huge one-, two-, and three-bedroom “villas,”

this place is plenty comfortable, but the main reason I like this hotel is that it’s affiliated with the Scottsdale Athletic Club, a large workout facility that emphasizes its tennis program. The basic rooms are a real steal for Scottsdale, and while the villas are quite a bit more expensive, they’re gigantic and have fireplaces,

DVD players, full kitchens, and washers and dryers. On top of all this, you get a

view of Camelback Mountain.

8235 E. Indian Bend Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85250. www.scottsdaleresortandathleticclub.com.

877/343-0033 or 480/344-0600. Fax 480/344-0650. 85 units. Late Dec to mid-Apr $159 double, $199–$619 suite or villa; mid-Apr to May and mid-Sept to late Dec $139 double, $179–$589

suite or villa; June to mid-Sept $89 double, $109–$259 suite or villa. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($100 deposit). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; babysitting; children’s programs; concierge; 4

health club; 2 Jacuzzis; 3 pools; room service; sauna; full-service spa; 11 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

INEXPENSIVE

Despite the high-priced real estate, Scottsdale does have a few relatively inex-

pensive chain motels, although during the winter season, prices are higher than

you might expect. For location alone, your best choice among these would be the

Motel 6–Scottsdale, 6848 E. Camelback Rd. ( 480/946-2280), which has doubles for $76 to $84 during the high season.

Best Western Papago Inn & Resort Located just east of Scottsdale Road,

adjacent to a shopping center with a distinctive contemporary Santa Fe styling, this older hotel may not be fancy, but it has a pretty courtyard with green lawns and a

large aviary full of parakeets and other birds. The courtyard layout gives the hotel a somewhat secluded feeling; you’d never know there’s a busy four-lane road out front.

Wher

Guest rooms have been remodeled in recent years and have modern furnishings and

e to Stay

pillow-top mattresses. Both downtown Tempe and Papago Park, which is home to

the Desert Botanical Garden and Phoenix Zoo, are only a mile away.

7017 E. McDowell Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85257-3313. www.bestwestern.com. 866/806-4400 or 480/947-7335. Fax 480/994-0692. 58 units. $60–$132 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Clarion Hotel Scottsdale With a very pleasant pool area in a palm-

shaded courtyard and rooms that done in a sort of Spanish colonial style, this

updated hotel is a good budget choice close to Old Town Scottsdale. The court-

yard, with its palm and olive trees, is the main reason to stay here, but the stylish lounge and restaurant also add to the appeal. Although they cost a bit extra, the

pool-view rooms are worth requesting.

5101 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85250. www.clarionhotel.com. 877/424-6423 or 480/

945-4392. Fax 480/947-3044. 211 units. Jan–Mar $115–$210 double, $180–$240 suite; Apr–Sept and Dec $45–$140 double, $100–$160 suite; Oct–Nov $170–$210 double, $290 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($250 deposit plus 163

$25 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Days Inn Scottsdale Resort at Fashion Square Mall This is one

of the last economical hotels in the Old Town Scottsdale area, and its location

adjacent to the Scottsdale Fashion Square shopping mall makes it a great choice

for shopaholics. The Days Inn may be just an aging chain motel, but its green

lawns, pool, tall palm trees, and a convenient downtown location all make it

worth recommending, particularly for families.

4710 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.daysinnscottsdale.com. 800/225-3297

or 480/947-5411. Fax 480/946-1324. 167 units. Oct–Apr $80–$180 double; May–Sept $66–$100

double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room.

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 fee). Amenities: Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Travelodge Scottsdale For convenience and price, this motel can’t be beat

4 (at least not in Scottsdale). Located at the west end of the Fifth Avenue shopping district, the Travelodge Scottsdale is within walking distance of some of the best

shopping and dining in Scottsdale. The three-story building is arranged around a

central courtyard, where you’ll find the small pool. Guest rooms are large and

have been fairly recently renovated.

6935 E. Fifth Ave., Scottsdale, AZ 85251. www.travelodge.com. 855/246-8452 or 480/246-e to Stay

8460. Fax 480/246-8467. 92 units. $59–$160 double. Rates include continental breakfast.

Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Ameni-Wher ties: Exercise room; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

North Scottsdale, Carefree & Cave Creek

With great golf courses, superb restaurants, rugged desert scenery, and a bit of

Western character, this area gets my vote for best place to get away from it all, soak up some sun, and get to know the desert. The one caveat is that the resorts in this

area are a 30-minute drive from downtown Scottsdale (longer during rush hour).

VERY EXPENSIVE

The Boulders Resort

Set amid a jumble of giant boulders 20 min-

utes north of downtown Scottsdale, this was the first luxury golf resort in the

north Valley’s rugged foothills. The adobe buildings blend unobtrusively into the

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

desert, and the two golf courses epitomize the desert golf course experience.

When not golfing, you can lounge by the small pool, play tennis, relax at the

resort’s Golden Door Spa, hike the resort’s 1,300 acres, or even try rock climbing.

The lobby is in a Santa Fe–style building with tree-trunk pillars and a flagstone

floor, and the guest rooms, which were all renovated in 2011, all have wood-

burning fireplaces and continue the pueblo styling. For the best views, ask for

one of the second-floor units. Bathrooms are large and luxuriously appointed,

with tubs for two and separate showers. The Boulders emphasizes organic ingre-

dients in its restaurants.

34631 N. Tom Darlington Dr. (P.O. Box 2090), Carefree, AZ 85377. www.theboulders.com.

888/579-2631 or 480/488-9009. Fax 480/488-4118. 215 units. Late Dec to May from $349

double, from $599 villa; May to early Sept from $129 double, from $399 villa; early Sept to late Dec from $249 double, from $499 villa. Rates do not include $30 daily service charge. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($100 fee).

164

Amenities: 7 restaurants; 2 lounges; babysitting; bikes; concierge; two 18-hole golf courses; health club and full-service spa; 4 Jacuzzis; 4 pools; room service; sauna; 8 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in service charge).

Fairmont Scottsdale

I know this faux Moorish palace belongs in

Spain, not Arizona, but I still love it. With its royal palms, tiled fountains, and

waterfalls, the Fairmont offers an exotic atmosphere that will delight anyone in

search of a getaway that doesn’t entail learning Spanish or spending euros. A

water playground (with two water slides) and ponds where kids can do a bit of

catch-and-release fishing also make this resort a hit with families. The resort, a

20-minute drive from Old Town Scottsdale, is home to the Phoenix Open golf

tournament, which means the fairways here are top-notch. The resort’s Willow

Stream Spa is one of the Valley’s best. Guest rooms are done in contemporary

Southwestern style, and bathrooms have double vanities and separate showers

and tubs. All units have private balconies. For stepped-up amenities, opt for a

room in the Gold wing.

7575 E. Princess Dr., Scottsdale, AZ 85255. www.scottsdaleprincess.com. 866/540-4495 or 4

480/585-4848. Fax 480/585-0091. 649 units. $149–$499 double; $349–$2,999 suite. Children 17

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $10. Pets accepted ($25 per night). Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; two 18-hole golf courses; exercise room; 3 Jacuzzis; 5

pools; room service; full-service spa; 5 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3

docking station, Wi-Fi ($15 per day).

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North

In the foothills

of north Scottsdale adjacent to (and with privileges at) the legendary Troon North

golf course, the Four Seasons is even more impressive than the nearby Boulders

Resort. This superluxurious resort may not feel as expansive as the Boulders, but

in every other aspect it is superior. With casita accommodations scattered across

a boulder-strewn hillside, the Four Seasons boasts one of the Valley’s most dra-

Wher

matic settings, and with a hiking trail to nearby Pinnacle Peak Park, the resort is

a good choice for anyone who wants to explore the desert on foot. Guest rooms

e to Stay

and suites are among the most lavish you’ll find in Arizona. If you can afford it,

opt for one with a private plunge pool and an outdoor shower—a luxury usually

found only in tropical resorts.

10600 E. Crescent Moon Dr., Scottsdale, AZ 85262. www.fourseasons.com/scottsdale. 888/

207-9696 or 480/515-5700. Fax 480/515-5599. 210 units. Jan–May $299–$719 double, $519–

$5,914 suite; June–Aug $179–$429 double, $484–$4,824 suite; Sept–Dec $229–$609 double, $574–$5,804 suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $29; self-parking $11. Small pets accepted. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 lounges; babysitting; children’s programs; concierge; two 18-hole golf courses; health club and spa; Jacuzzi; 3

pools (including large 2-level pool); room service; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD

player, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10–$15 per day).

EXPENSIVE

Radisson Fort McDowell Resort & Casino

In the Scottsdale area,

you just can’t stay any closer to the desert than at this beautiful resort northeast of Fountain Hills. Although the Radisson is a 30-minute drive from downtown Scottsdale, the location is hard to beat if you’ve come to the area to experience the desert.

The resort is on the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation, and the tribe’s Fort McDowell

165

Casino is a big draw for many guests. However, the two 18-hole courses at the adja-

cent We-Ko-Pa Golf Club are also major draws here. Personally, I like the resort best for its creative Native American styling and its great desert and mountain views. For families, there’s a children’s water-play area and horseback riding, and, in summer, float trips down the nearby Verde River can be arranged.

10438 N. Fort McDowell Rd., Fountain Hills, AZ 85264. www.radisson.com/ftmcdowellaz.

800/333-3333 or 480/789-5300. Fax 480/789-5333. 248 units. Jan–Mar $269–$299 double; Apr $199–$210 double; May, Sept, and Dec $139–$159 double; June–Aug $109–$139 double; Oct–Nov $219–$239 double. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; snack bar; lounge; concierge; exercise room; two 18-hole golf courses; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

Inn at Eagle Mountain This secluded, residential-style hotel is 15 min-

utes east of U.S. 101 and just off Shea Boulevard near the town of Fountain

4 Hills, and while the location is a bit out of the way, the hillside setting, valley views, spacious accommodations, and adjacent golf course make this a good

choice. Rooms, of which there are several styles and sizes, have simple South-

western-inspired furniture. All the rooms have gas fireplaces and large bathrooms

with Jacuzzi tubs. There are also balconies and patios. The pool overlooks a small

lake on the golf course. There’s a desert preserve with hiking trails nearby, but it’s e to Stay

at least a 15-minute drive to good restaurants.

Wher 9800 N. Summer Hill Blvd., Fountain Hills, AZ 85268. www.innateaglemountain.com. 800/992-8083 or 480/816-3000. Fax 480/816-3090. 43 units. Jan, Apr, and Oct–Nov $129–$209 double; Feb–Mar $149–$239 double; June–Aug $59–$159 double; May, Sept, and Dec $79–$179 double.

Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; 18-hole golf course; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool.

In room: A/C, TV/VCR, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

The Camelback Corridor, Central &

Downtown Phoenix

The Camelback corridor is the heart of the upscale Phoenix shopping and restau-

rant scene and is home to the prestigious Arizona Biltmore resort. Old money and

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

new money rub shoulders along the avenues here, and valet parking is de rigueur.

Located roughly midway between Old Scottsdale and downtown Phoenix, this

area is a good bet for those intending to split their time between the downtown

Phoenix cultural and sports district and the world-class shopping and dining in

Scottsdale. Unless you’re a sports fan or are in town for a convention, there’s not

much to recommend downtown Phoenix. Primarily a 9-to-5 neighborhood,

downtown can feel like a ghost town at night. In between these two areas lies

Central Avenue, which is primarily a business district but is also home to the

Heard Museum and the Phoenix Art Museum.

VERY EXPENSIVE

Arizona Biltmore

For more than 80 years, this resort has been the

favored Phoenix address of celebrities, politicians, and old money, and the distinc-

tive cast-cement blocks inspired by a Frank Lloyd Wright design make it a unique

architectural gem. However, it’s the historical character and timeless elegance

that really set this place apart. With wide lawns, colorful flower gardens, and views 166

of Piestewa Peak, this is a resort for outdoor lounging. While the two golf courses

and expansive spa are the main draws, the children’s activities center and lawn

games make this a popular choice for families. Of the several different styles of

accommodations, the “resort rooms” are quite comfortable and have balconies or

patios. For the ultimate in luxury, there are the Ocatilla rooms. From early Novem-

ber to mid-May, afternoon tea is served in the lobby Thursday through Sunday.

2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85016. www.arizonabiltmore.com. 800/950-0086 or 602/955-6600. Fax 602/381-7600. 740 units. Jan to mid-May $499–$639 double, from $679 suite; mid-May to early Sept $259–$359 double, from $389 suite; early Sept to Dec $399–$559 double, from $589 suite. Rates do not include $28 daily service fee. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $27; self-parking $12. Pets under 50 lb. accepted in cottage rooms ($100 deposit, $50 nonrefundable). Amenities: 4 restaurants; 3 lounges; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; two 18-hole golf courses; health club and full-service spa; 6 Jacuzzis; 8 pools; room service; saunas; 7 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Internet, minibar, MP3 docking station.

Royal Palms Resort and Spa

This gorgeous little hideaway has the feel

of a Spanish villa and is so romantic and beautiful that the moment you set foot in 4

the first cloistered garden, you might imagine that you hear flamenco music.

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Located midway between Old Town Scottsdale and Biltmore Fashion Park, the

Royal Palms was constructed more than 80 years ago by Cunard Steamship execu-

tive Delos Cooke and is done in Spanish mission style. Giving the resort the tranquil feel of a Mediterranean monastery are lush walled gardens where antique water

fountains splash. The most memorable guest rooms are the designer casitas, each

with a distinctive decor ranging from opulent contemporary to classic European.

However, all the rooms are beautiful and have superplush beds. T. Cook’s restaurant

is one of the city’s most romantic restaurants (see “Where to Eat,” earlier).

5200 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85018. www.royalpalmsresortandspa.com. 800/672-6011 or 602/840-3610. Fax 602/840-6927. 119 units. Jan–May $359–$649 double, $409–$2,999

suite; June to mid-Sept $169–$429 double, $179–$2,499 suite; mid-Sept to Dec $239–$499 double, $239–$2,999 suite. Rates do not include $28 daily service fee. Children 17 and under stay Wher

free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($300 deposit, $100 nonrefundable).

Amenities: 2 restaurants, including T. Cook’s (review, p. 150); 2 lounges; babysitting; concierge; e to Stay

exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool w/cabanas; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

EXPENSIVE

Embassy Suites Biltmore Located across the parking lot from the Bilt-

more Fashion Park shopping center, this hotel makes a great base if you want to

be within walking distance of half a dozen good restaurants. The atrium is filled

with interesting tile work, tropical greenery, waterfalls, and ponds filled with koi (colorful Japanese carp). In the atrium, you’ll also find a romantic lounge with

huge banquettes shaded by palm trees. All in all, this hotel is a good value, espe-

cially when you consider that rates include both breakfast and afternoon drinks.

2630 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85016. www.phoenixbiltmore.embassysuites.com. 800/

362-2779 or 602/955-3992. Fax 602/955-6479. 232 units. Jan–Mar $289 double; Apr to late May $239 double; late May to mid-Sept $199 double; mid-Sept to Dec $269 double. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon drinks. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $8. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi ($15 per day).

167

The Hermosa Inn

With cactus gardens, tall palms, mesquite trees,

green lawns, and colorful flower gardens, this luxurious boutique hideaway is one

of the few hotels in the Valley to offer any Old Arizona atmosphere. Set on 6

acres in the wealthy residential community of Paradise Valley, the Hermosa Inn

is built around the 1930s adobe home of cowboy artist Lon Megargee. The

rooms, most of which are quite large, have a luxurious modern ranch feeling.

Huge bathrooms, with large walk-in showers and deep bathtubs, are a highlight.

Most rooms also have gas fireplaces and big patios for enjoying the garden set-

ting. With its quiet, laid-back feeling, great restaurant, and pretty gardens, the

Hermosa Inn is a sure bet for a relaxing getaway.

5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd., Paradise Valley, AZ 85253. www.hermosainn.com. 800/241-1210 or 602/955-8614. Fax 602/955-8299. 34 units. Mar–May $309–$559 double; June–Dec $269–$489

double. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Take 32nd St. north from Camelback Rd., turn right on Stanford Rd., and turn left on N. Palo Cristi Rd. From Lincoln Dr., turn south on N. Palo Cristi Rd. (east of 32nd St.). Pets accepted ($100 fee). Amenities: Restaurant, LON’s at the Hermosa (p. 124); lounge; babysitting; bikes; concierge; access to 4 nearby health club; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Maricopa Manor Centrally located between downtown Phoenix and Scotts-

dale, Maricopa Manor, which has long been Phoenix’s best B&B, is just a block

from both Camelback Road and a light-rail station. The inn’s main building,

e to Stay

designed to resemble a Spanish manor house, was built in 1928, and the orange

trees, palms, and large yard all lend an Old Phoenix atmosphere. All guest rooms

Wher are large, comfortable suites, and some have gas fireplaces, jetted tubs, and Arts and Crafts touches. All the suites have kitchenettes, and some have two separate

sleeping areas. Breakfast is delivered to your door, and you can eat in your room

or at tables in the garden.

15 W. Pasadena Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85013. www.maricopamanor.com. 800/292-6403 or 602/

264-9200. Fax 602/264-9204. 6 units. Feb–Apr $189–$239 double; May to mid-June and Nov–

Jan $149–$189 double; mid-June to mid-Sept $109 double; mid-Sept to Oct $139–$169 double.

Rates include full breakfast. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool.

In room: A/C, TV/VCR/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

The Clarendon Hotel If you’re looking for a stylish yet casual place in

downtown Phoenix, the Clarendon is a great choice. This renovated and repur-

posed central Phoenix hotel has been in a constant state of improvement for

several years now and has become Phoenix’s hotel of choice for hip, style-con-

scious travelers, and it also attracts a surprising number of celebrities. Guest

rooms feature good beds as well as art by local artists. In the hotel’s central courtyard, there’s a two-story glass water wall, a 50-person hot tub, and a gorgeous pool underwater speakers and twinkling stars on the bottom. A rooftop patio has great

views of the city and surrounding mountains and is the perfect place to take in

the sunset. Definitely a see-and-be-seen pool scene. The hotel’s Mexican restau-

rant and cocktail bar are favorites of locals.

401 W. Clarendon Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85013. www.goclarendon.com. 602/252-7363. 105

units. Oct–May $99–$199 double; June–Sept $49–$109 double. Rates do not include $20 daily service charge. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets 168

accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (cost included in daily service charge).

Extended Stay Deluxe Phoenix-Biltmore Billing itself as a temporary

residence and located just north of Camelback Road not far from Biltmore Fash-

ion Park, this hotel consists of studio-style apartments and offers discounts for

stays of 7 days or more. Although designed primarily for corporate business trav-

elers on temporary assignment in the area, this lodging makes a good choice for

families as well. All units have full kitchens, big bathrooms, and separate sitting

areas. Keep in mind that you only get maid service if you pay $5 to $10 extra per

day or stay for a week or more.

5235 N. 16th St., Phoenix, AZ 85016. www.extendedstaydeluxe.com. 800/804-3724 or 602/

265-6800. Fax 602/265-1114. 112 units. $60–$94 double. Rates include continental breakfast.

Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night, $150 maximum). Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, kitchen, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($5 per stay).

4

North Phoenix

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Some of the Valley’s best scenery is in north Phoenix, where several small moun-

tains have been protected as parks and preserves; the two Pointe Hilton resorts

claim great locations close to these parks. So, if you’re looking for quick access to desert trails, the resorts here are good choices. However, the Valley’s best shopping and dining, as well as most major attractions, are all at least a 30-minute

drive away.

VERY EXPENSIVE

JW Marriott Desert Ridge Resort & Spa

This is the largest resort

in the state and stays crowded with conference and convention groups. Because

it is miles from any other resorts, high-end shopping areas, or concentrations of

good restaurants, Desert Ridge is primarily a place to stay put and spend your

Wher

days sitting in the sun drinking margaritas by the pool. To this end, there are 4

acres of water features and pools (including a tubing “river”). At the grand

e to Stay

entrance, desert landscaping and rows of palm trees give the resort a sense of

place, and the lobby’s roll-up walls let plenty of balmy desert air in during the

cooler months. Guest rooms have balconies and hints of Mediterranean styling.

Be sure to ask for a room with a view to the south; these rooms look out to several

of Phoenix’s mountain preserves.

5350 E. Marriott Blvd., Phoenix, AZ 85054. www.jwdesertridgeresort.com. 800/835-6206 or 480/293-5000. Fax 480/293-3600. 950 units. Jan–Apr $369–$429 double; May to mid-Sept $189–

$309 double; mid-Sept to Dec $299–$369 double. Rates do not include $25 resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25. Amenities: 5

restaurants; 2 snack bars/cafes; 5 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; two 18-hole golf courses; health club and full-service spa; 5 Jacuzzis; 4

pools; room service; 6 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

MODERATE

Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort

At the foot of the Phoenix

Mountains, this lushly landscaped resort makes a big splash with its 4-acre

169

Hole-in-the-Wall River Ranch aquatic playground, which features a tubing

“river,” water slide, waterfall, sports pool, and lagoon pool. This pool area alone

would make this resort a great spot for those traveling with kids, but there are

also children’s programs. The resort is done in the Spanish villa style, and most of the accommodations are large two-room suites. For a family vacation, this place

is hard to beat. However, I prefer the nearby Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort

for its dramatic hillside setting and location adjacent to the hiking trails of the

North Mountain Recreation Area.

7677 N. 16th St., Phoenix, AZ 85020. www.pointehilton.com. 800/876-4683 or 602/997-2626.

Fax 602/997-2391. 563 units. Jan to mid-May $159–$399 double; mid-May to mid-Sept $99–$199

double; mid-Sept to Dec $139–$299 double; year-round $1,500 grande or palacio suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($75 fee). Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 snack bars; 5 lounges; babysitting; children’s programs; concierge; health club and small full-service spa; 7 Jacuzzis; 8 pools; room service; 3 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($12 per day).

4 Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort If you love to lounge by the

pool, then this resort is a great choice. The Falls, a 31⁄2-acre water playground,

includes two pools, a 138-foot water slide, 40-foot cascades, a whirlpool tucked

into an artificial grotto, and rental cabanas. If you’re a hiker, you can head out on the trails of the adjacent North Mountain Recreation Area. All rooms are spacious suites with Southwest-inspired furnishings; corner units are particularly

e to Stay

bright. This resort has steep walkways, so you need to be in good shape to stay

here. At the top of the property is Different Pointe of View, a continental restau-

Wher rant with one of the finest views in the city. This resort is more adult-oriented than the Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort, but otherwise is similar.

11111 N. 7th St., Phoenix, AZ 85020. www.pointehilton.com. 800/876-4683 or 602/866-7500.

Fax 602/993-0276. 584 units. Jan to mid-May $159–$399 double; mid-May to mid-Sept $99–$199

double; mid-Sept to Dec $139–$299 double; year-round $1,500 grande suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($75 fee). Amenities: 4

restaurants; poolside cafe; 4 lounges; babysitting; seasonal children’s programs; concierge; golf course; exercise room; 8 Jacuzzis; 8 pools; room service; small full-service spa; 2 tennis courts.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($12 per day).

INEXPENSIVE

Best Western InnSuites Phoenix Biltmore/Scottsdale Just off

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Ariz. 51 and not far from the miles of desert trails at Dreamy Draw Recreation

Area and Piestewa Peak, this hotel is both convenient and economical. Stay here,

and you’ll have not only easy access to desert trails, but also easy freeway access

to both downtown Phoenix and north Scottsdale. Rooms are surprisingly mod-

ern, attractively furnished, and have plush, pillow-top beds. After a hot hike, you

can cool off in the pool or soak sore muscles in the hot tub. With its breakfast

buffet, evening snacks, and large rooms, this is also an excellent and economical

place to stay with the kids.

1615 E. Northern Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85020. www.innsuites.com/phoenix. 800/752-2204 or 602/997-6285. Fax 602/943-1407. 111 units. Oct–May $82–$149 double; June–Sept $72–$109

double. Rates include full breakfast and evening social hour. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 per night). Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

170

Tempe & South Phoenix

Tempe, which lies just a few miles east of the airport, is home to Arizona State

University and consequently supports a lively nightlife scene. Along Tempe’s Mill

Avenue, you’ll find one of the only neighborhoods in the Valley where locals actu-

ally get out of their cars and walk the streets. Tempe is also convenient to Papago

Park, which is home to the Phoenix Zoo, the Desert Botanical Garden, a munici-

pal golf course, and hiking and mountain-biking trails. While, south Phoenix is

one of the poorest parts of the city, it does have a couple of wealthy enclaves that are home to exceptional resorts, and Phoenix South Mountain Park is one of the

best places in the city to experience the desert.

EXPENSIVE

Arizona Grand Resort

This sprawling resort, which underwent a

$52-million makeover a few years ago, abuts the 17,000-acre South Mountain

Park and is one of the best choices in the Valley for families. If I were a 12-year-

old, I would beg my parents to stay here and then spend every day playing in the

wave pool, tubing “river,” twisty water slide, and two free-fall-style water slides. 4

There are also numerous children’s programs. The guest rooms, all suites, feature

contemporary Southwestern furnishings and lots of space. Rustler’s Rooste, the

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

resort’s fun cowboy steakhouse, serves rattlesnake appetizers (see “Where to

Eat,” earlier) and is a favorite with families.

8000 S. Arizona Grand Pkwy., Phoenix, AZ 85044. www.arizonagrandresort.com. 866/267-1321 or 602/438-9000. Fax 602/431-6535. 740 units. Jan–Apr $199–$399 double; May to early Sept $119–$199 double; early Sept to Dec $179–$299 double. Rates do not include $30 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 6

restaurants, including Rustler’s Rooste (review, p. 134); 3 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; 18-hole golf course; health club and full-service spa; 7 Jacuzzis; 7 outdoor pools (including 7-acre water park); room service. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi ($15 per day).

The Buttes, a Marriott Resort

Just 3 miles from Sky Harbor Airport

Wher

and adjacent to Tempe Diablo Stadium (where the L.A. Angels hold spring train-

ing), this resort makes the most of its craggy hilltop location, and although some

e to Stay

people complain that the nearby freeway ruins the view, the rocky setting is

quintessentially Southwestern. The only other resorts in the area with as much

desert character are the far more expensive Boulders and Four Seasons. From the

cactus garden and waterfall inside the lobby to the circular restaurant and free-form swimming pools, this resort is calculated to take your breath away. Guest

rooms are stylishly elegant. The city-view rooms are a bit larger than the hillside-

view rooms, but second-floor hillside-view rooms have patios. Most bathrooms

have walk-in showers. The Top of the Rock restaurant has great views.

2000 Westcourt Way, Tempe, AZ 85282. www.marriott.com/phxtm. 888/867-7492 or 602/

225-9000. Fax 602/438-8622. 353 units. Jan–Mar $179–$339 double; Apr–Dec $159–$249 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $10. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 lounges; concierge; exercise room; 4 Jacuzzis; 2 large pools; room service; full-service spa; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi ($15 per day).

Tempe Mission Palms Hotel With a great location on Tempe’s lively Mill

Avenue and guest rooms decorated in shades of beige and brown, this is the per-

fect choice for a fun-filled weekend in Tempe. Sure, this is a business hotel

171

(ergonomic desk chairs), but with a rooftop pool, tennis court, and Mill Avenue’s

nightlife right out the front door, it’s also a great choice for active travelers. Come in the spring and you won’t want to leave the courtyard, which is scented by the

flowers of citrus trees.

60 E. 5th St., Tempe, AZ 85281. www.missionpalms.com. 800/547-8705 or 480/894-1400. Fax 480/968-7677. 303 units. Jan–Apr $199–$299 double, $399 suite; May–June $139–$179 double, $279 suite; July–Aug $99–$169 double, $269 suite; Sept–Dec $159–$229 double, $339 suite.

Rates do not include $13 daily hospitality fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room.

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($100 deposit, $25 fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; free airport transfers; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; room service; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

Aloft Tempe Ever wished you had a loft in the city? At this hotel near

the shores of Tempe Town Lake, you’ll have just that—a high-ceilinged room

4 with big windows and hip decor. Aloft hotels are affiliated with the über-hip W

hotels, but are much less aggressive about their hipness quotient. Bright colors,

modern furniture, a 24-hour “pantry,” and a cool lobby bar that even has a pool

table make for a setting that will appeal to young travelers. With their platform

beds and big bathrooms, guest rooms depart from the familiar styling of most

corporate hotels. Throw in a LEED certification and you have a hotel that’s not

e to Stay

only hip but green, too. There are even special amenities for kids (goodie bags,

special kid bedding, a splash pool). How cool is that?

Wher 951 E. Playa del Norte Dr., Tempe, AZ 85281. www.alofthotels.com/tempe. 877/462-5638 or 480/621-3300. 136 units. Jan–May and Sept–Oct $159–$209 double; June–Aug $99–$129 double; Nov–Dec $119–$139 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Lounge; concierge; exercise room; outdoor pool.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

Fiesta Resort Conference Center Reasonable rates, green lawns,

palm- and eucalyptus-shaded grounds, and a location close to the airport, ASU,

and Tempe’s Mill Avenue make this older, casual resort one of the best deals in

the Valley. Okay, so it doesn’t have the desert character of the Buttes resort across PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

the freeway, and it isn’t as stylish as the resorts in Scottsdale, but it does have a bit of Frank Lloyd Wright–inspired architectural character. The large guest

rooms have touches of southwestern styling and beds with pillow-top mattresses.

You may not feel like you’re in the desert when you stay here (due to the lawns

and shade trees), but you’ll certainly get a lot more for your money than at other

area hotels in this price range.

2100 S. Priest Dr., Tempe, AZ 85282. www.fiestainnresort.com. 480/967-1441. Fax 480/967-0224. 270 units. Oct–Nov and Jan–May $139–$199 double; June–Sept and Dec $89–$119.

Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25).

Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free airport transfer; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Mesa & the East Valley

Mesa and the east Valley cities of Chandler and Gilbert are sprawling suburbs, but

they are also where you can find plenty of inexpensive chain motels at freeway off

172

ramps. It is here, also, that you will find one of the Valley’s most impressive resorts, as well as some of the best-value resorts in the region.

VERY EXPENSIVE

Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa

Named for the area’s

wild horses, this resort is 20 minutes south of Phoenix Sky Harbor International

Airport on the Gila River Indian Reservation, and because the resort looks out

across miles of desert, it has a surprisingly remote feel. Throw in horseback rid-

ing, a full-service spa featuring Native American–inspired treatments, two golf

courses, a nature trail along a 21⁄2-mile-long replica of the Gila River, a pool with a water slide, the Rawhide Wild West theme park, and a nearby casino, and you’ll

find plenty to keep you busy. The resort is owned by the Maricopa and Pima

tribes, who go out of their way to share their culture with resort guests. Guest

rooms have great beds, small patios, and large bathrooms and underwent exten-

sive updating in 2010. The menu in Kai (p. 132), the main dining room, focuses

on indigenous Southwestern flavors.

5594 W. Wild Horse Pass Blvd., Chandler, AZ 85226. www.wildhorsepassresort.com. 888/218-4

8989 or 602/225-0100. Fax 602/225-0300. 500 units. Early Jan to late May $329–$495 double, $650–$1,400 suite; late May to mid-Sept $189–$289 double, $600–$950 suite; mid-Sept to early PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

Jan $289–$495 double, $650–$1,400 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $22. Pets accepted. Amenities: 5 restaurants, including Kai (p. 132); 4 lounges; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; two 18-hole golf courses; health club and full-service spa; 7 Jacuzzis; 4 outdoor pools; room service; 2 tennis courts.

In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($13 per day).

MODERATE

Gold Canyon Golf Resort Golfers willing to stay way out on the east-

ern outskirts of the Valley of the Sun (a 30- to 45-min. drive from the airport) will be thrilled by the economical room rates and great golf at this resort. At the foot

of the Superstition Mountains, Gold Canyon is a favorite of golfers for its exceed-

ingly scenic holes. The spacious guest rooms are housed in pueblo-inspired

Wher

buildings; some have fireplaces, while others have whirlpools. The deluxe golf-

course rooms are definitely worth the higher rates. If you’re here primarily to play e to Stay

golf and don’t have a fortune to spend, this is the place to stay.

6100 S. Kings Ranch Rd., Gold Canyon, AZ 85218. www.gcgr.com. 800/827-5281 or 480/982-9090. Fax 480/983-9554. 85 units. $115–$260 double. Rates do not include $12 daily resort fee.

Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee).

Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; concierge; executive-level rooms; two 18-hole golf courses; exercise room; Jacuzzi; pool; small full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

INEXPENSIVE

Apache Boulevard in Tempe becomes Main Street in Mesa, and along this

stretch of road there are numerous old motels charging some of the lowest rates

in the Valley. However, these motels are very hit-or-miss. If you’re used to staying at nonchain motels, you might want to cruise this strip and check out a few

places. Otherwise, try the chain motels in the area (which tend to charge $20–

$40 more per night than nonchain motels).

Crowne Plaza San Marcos Golf Resort Built in 1912, the San Marcos

is the oldest golf resort in Arizona and has a classic mission-revival styling. I love 173

the timeless feel of this resort’s palm-shaded courtyards, and I’m sure you will, too.

Guest rooms are simply furnished and nothing special, but they’ve been kept up-

to-date. You’ll want to spend your time splashing around in the pool when you

aren’t playing tennis or golf. Downtown Chandler, where the San Marcos is

located, has undergone a renaissance in the past decade. There are art galleries

and good restaurants on the plaza just outside the resort’s front door. Although the San Marcos is out of the tourist mainstream, the rates make it a real bargain.

1 San Marcos Place, Chandler, AZ 85225. www.sanmarcosresort.com. 800/528-8071 or 480/

812-0900. Fax 480/963-6777. 249 units. $99–$199 double; $149–$249 suite. Rates do not include $8 daily service charge. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 lounges; concierge; 18-hole golf course; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; 2 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, free Internet.

Dobson Ranch Inn & Suites This aging budget resort may not be very luxu-

rious, but it has just about everything a sun-starved winter visitor could ask for—

4 green lawns, flower gardens, palm trees, and a big pool surrounded by lounge

chairs. The location, right off U.S. 60 at the junction with U.S. 101, also makes

this resort relatively convenient for exploring the Valley. Guest rooms are simply

furnished, yet quite modern, and although the rooms are more functional than

fancy, the grounds more than make up for this shortcoming.

1666 S. Dobson Rd., Mesa, AZ 85202-5699. www.dobsonranchinn.com. 800/528-1356 or

e to Stay

480/831-7000. Fax 480/831-7000. 213 units. $82–$163 double. Rates include full breakfast.

Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50

Wher deposit). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; large outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

West Valley

EXPENSIVE

The Wigwam

Located 20 minutes west of downtown Phoenix and more

than twice that far from Scottsdale, this property, which opened its doors to the

public in 1929, is one of the nation’s premier golf resorts. It’s a classic, old-money sort of place that makes a great golf getaway, but it’s a bit inconveniently located for anyone planning on visiting museums and galleries or eating out. With its

green lawns, tall palms, flower gardens, and Santa Fe–style buildings, the resort

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

is a neatly manicured world unto itself. Guest rooms are spacious and feature

Southwestern furniture and plush beds, and some units have fireplaces. The

traditional-style golf courses here are the main attraction, and the rooms to

request are those along the fairways. In addition to the golf courses, the resort is noted for its Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa.

300 E. Wigwam Blvd., Litchfield Park, AZ 85340. www.wigwamarizona.com. 800/327-0396 or 623/935-3811. Fax 623/935-3737. 331 units. Early Jan to mid-Apr $219–$309 double, $239–$329

suite; mid-Apr to May and Sept to early Jan $159–$209 double, $179–$259 suite; June–Sept $89–$129 double, $99–$179 suite. Rates do not include $22 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($15 per night). Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 lounges; bikes; children’s activities; concierge; three 18-hole golf courses; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; 4 pools; room service; full-service spa; 9 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

174

A SIDE TRIP FROM PHOENIX:

THE APACHE TRAIL

There isn’t a whole lot of desert or history left in Phoenix, but only an hour’s drive to the east you’ll find quite a bit of both. The Apache Trail, a narrow, winding, partially gravel road that snakes its way around the north side of the Superstition

Mountains, offers some of the most scenic desert driving in central Arizona. Pick

and choose the stops that appeal to you, and be sure to get an early start. The

gravel section of the road is well graded and is passable for regular passenger cars.

If you’d rather leave the driving to someone else, Apache Trail Tours

( 480/982-7661; www.apachetrailtours.com) offers a variety of guided tours

along the Apache Trail. This company also offers off-road adventures in the

Superstition Mountains and Four Peaks area. Tours range in price from $45 to

$165.To start this drive, head east on U.S. 60 to the town of Apache Junction, and

then go north on Ariz. 88. About 4 miles out of town is Goldfield Ghost Town,

a reconstructed gold-mining town (see “Wild West Theme Towns” under “Seeing

4

the Sights,” earlier in this chapter). Allow plenty of time if you plan to stop here.

Not far from Goldfield is Lost Dutchman State Park, 6109 N. Apache Trail

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

( 480/982-4485; www.azstateparks.com), where you can hike into the rugged

Superstition Mountains and see what the region’s gold seekers were up against.

Springtime wildflower displays here can be absolutely gorgeous. Park admission is

$7 per vehicle; the campground here charges $15 to $25 per site.

Continuing northeast, you’ll reach Canyon Lake, set in a deep canyon

flanked by colorful cliffs and rugged rock formations. This is the first of three

reservoirs you’ll pass on this drive, and together the three lakes provide much of

Phoenix’s drinking water. At Canyon

Lake, you can swim at the Acacia Pic-

nic Area or the nearby Boulder Creek

Picnic Area, which is in a pretty side

cove. You can also take a cruise on

A Side T

the Dolly steamboat ( 480/827-

9144; www.dollysteamboat.com). A

90-minute jaunt on this reproduction

rip fr

paddle-wheeler costs $20 for adults,

$18 for seniors, and $12 for children 5

om Phoenix: The Apache T

to 12. Lunch ($37) and dinner ($60 for

adults and $37 for children) cruises are

also available, and once a month, there

is even a twilight astronomy cruise.

There’s also a lakeside restaurant at the

boat landing. But if you’re at all hungry,

hold out for nearby Tortilla Flat

( 480/984-1776; www.tortillaflataz.

com), an old stagecoach stop with a

rail

restaurant, saloon, and general store.

The ceiling and interior walls of this

funky old place are plastered with

thousands of dollar bills that have been One of the most scenic desert drives can be left by previous customers. If it’s hot found along the Apache Trail.

175

4

Thousands of dollar bills plaster the walls at Tortilla Flat.

rail

out, be sure to stop in at the general store for some prickly-pear ice cream (guar-

anteed spineless). From December through April, there are staged gunfights here

on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month.

A few miles past Tortilla Flat, the pavement ends and the truly spectacular

desert scenery begins. Among the rocky ridges, arroyos, and canyons of this

stretch of road, you’ll see saguaro cacti and century plants (a type of agave that

dies after sending up its flower stalk, which can be as much as 15 ft. tall). Next

you’ll come to Apache Lake, which is not nearly as spectacular as Canyon Lake, though it does have the Apache Lake marina and motel ( 928/467-2511;

om Phoenix: The Apache T

www.apachelake.com), with a motel, restaurant, and general store. If you’re

rip fr

inclined to turn this drive into an overnight trip, this would be a good place to

spend the night. Room rates are $80 to $105; boat rentals are available.

Shortly before reaching pavement again, you’ll see Theodore Roosevelt

A Side T Dam. This dam, built in 1911, forms Roosevelt Lake and, despite its concrete face, is the largest masonry dam in the world.

Continuing on Ariz. 88, you’ll next come to Tonto National Monument

( 928/467-2241; www.nps.gov/tont), which preserves some of the southern-

most cliff dwellings in Arizona. These pueblos were occupied between about

1300 and 1450 by the Salado people and are some of the few remaining traces of

this tribe, which once cultivated lands now flooded by Roosevelt Lake. The lower

ruins, open daily year round, are a half-mile up a steep trail from the visitor center.

The upper ruins are reached by a 3-mile round-trip hike, and can only be visited

on a guided hike. The upper ruins are open November through April with tours

offered three or four times each week at 10am. In May and October, there are

tours on Saturday mornings at 8am. Tour reservations are required (reserve at least

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

2 weeks in advance). The park is open daily (except Christmas) from 8am to 5pm

(you must begin the lower ruin trail by 4pm); admission is $3.

Keep going on Ariz. 88 to the copper-mining town of Globe. Although you

can’t see the mines themselves, the tailings (remains of rock removed from the

176

copper ore) can be seen piled high all around the town. Be sure to visit Besh-Ba-

Gowah Archaeological Park , 1324 S. Jesse Hayes Rd. ( 928/425-0320;

www.globeaz.gov/visitors/besh-ba-gowah), on the eastern outskirts of town. This

Salado Indian pueblo ruin site has been partially reconstructed, and several

rooms are set up to reflect the way they might have looked when they were first

occupied about 700 years ago. For this reason, they’re among the most fascinat-

ing ruins in the state. Besh-Ba-Gowah is open daily from 9am to 5pm (closed

New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas); admission is $5 for adults, $4 for

seniors, and free for children 11 and under. To get here, head out of Globe on

South Broad Street to Jesse Hayes Road. From Globe, head back to Phoenix on

U.S. 60.

If after a long day on the road you’re looking for a place to eat, stop in at

Gold Canyon Golf Resort, 6100 S. Kings Ranch Rd., Gold Canyon ( 800/

827-5281 or 480/982-9090; www.gcgr.com), which has a good formal dining

room and a more casual bar and grill.

4

PHOENIX & SCOTTSDALE

A Side T

rip fr

om Phoenix: The Apache T

rail

177

5

CENTRAL

ARIZONA

Let’s say you’re planning a trip to Arizona. You’re going to fly in

to Phoenix, rent a car, and head north to the Grand Canyon.

Glancing at a map of the state, you might easily imagine that

there’s nothing to see or do between Phoenix and the Grand

Canyon. This is the desert, right? Miles of desolate wasteland,

that sort of thing. Wrong!

Between Phoenix and the Grand Canyon lies one of the most beautiful land-

scapes on earth, the red-rock country of Sedona. But don’t get the idea that

Sedona is some sort of pristine wilderness waiting to be discovered. Decades ago,

Hollywood came to Sedona to shoot Westerns; then came the artists and the

retirees and the New Agers. Now Hollywood (and just about everyone with

money from both coasts) is back, but this time the stars aren’t shooting Westerns;

they’re building huge homes on the range.

While the Sedona area is absolutely drop-dead gorgeous, Central Arizona is

more than just red rock and retirees. It also has the former territorial capital of

Prescott, historic sites, ancient Indian ruins, an old mining town turned artists’

community, and even a couple of good old-fashioned dude ranches out Wicken-

burg way. There are, of course, thousands of acres of cactus-studded desert, but

5

there are also high mountains, cool pine forests, and a fertile river valley, appro-

C

priately named the Verde (Green) Valley. And north of Sedona’s red rocks is Oak

ENTRAL

Creek Canyon, a tree-shaded cleft in the rocks with one of the state’s most scenic

stretches of highway running through it.

If you should fall in love with this country, you won’t be the first to do so.

A

People have been drawn to the region for hundreds of years. The Hohokam peo-

RIZONA

ple farmed the fertile Verde Valley as long ago as a.d. 600, followed later by the

Sinagua. Although these early tribes had disappeared by the time the first white

settlers arrived in the 1860s, Apache and Yavapai tribes did inhabit the area. It

was to protect settlers from these hostile tribes that the U.S. Army established

Fort Verde here in 1871.

Intr

When Arizona became a U.S. territory in 1863, Prescott, due to its central

oduction

location, was chosen as the territorial capital. Although the town would eventu-

ally lose that title to Tucson and then to Phoenix, it was the most important city

in Arizona for part of the late 19th century. Wealthy merchants and legislators

rapidly transformed this pioneer outpost into a beautiful town filled with stately

Victorian homes surrounding an imposing county courthouse.

Settlers were lured to this region not only by fertile land, but also by the

mineral wealth that lay hidden in the ground. Miners founded a number of com-

munities in central Arizona, among them Jerome. When the mines finally shut

down, Jerome was almost completely abandoned, but now artists and craftspeo-

ple have moved in to reclaim and revitalize the old mining town.

In the middle of the 20th century, it was sunshine and a chance to ride the

range that lured people to central Arizona, and many of those visitors headed to

Wickenburg. This former cow town still clings to its Western roots and has

previous page: Sedona’s Cathedral Rock at sunset.

179

restored part of its downtown to its 1880s appearance. It is here you’ll find the

region’s last remaining dude ranches, which now call themselves “guest ranches.”

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN CENTRAL ARIZONA

Exploring the Granite Dells (Prescott): The Granite Dells is an area of mas-

sive, jumbled boulders, and lacing this maze of rocks is an extensive network

of trails, including a former railroad route that is now an easy pathway open to

hikers and cyclists. Within the Dells are two lakes, and one of these has sum-

mertime canoe and kayak rentals. See p. 190.

An afternoon in Jerome: Perched on the steep slopes of Mingus Mountain

high above the Verde Valley, this former mining town boasts dizzying views

and winding streets lined with interesting shops, art galleries, winery tasting

rooms, and restaurants. See p. 197.

Wine tasting in the Verde Valley: It may not be the Napa Valley, but the

Verde Valley now has almost a dozen wineries or tasting rooms that are open

to the public, and some of them make really good wine. You can visit tasting

rooms in Jerome, Cottonwood, Page Springs, and on a vineyard overlooking

the Verde River. See p. 217.

5

Searching for signs of the Sinagua: Throughout central Arizona, there are

ruins and petroglyphs left by the ancient Sinagua people who inhabited this

region between the 12th and 14th century. Sites include Montezuma Castle

and Tuzigoot national monuments, and Palatki and V Bar V Heritage Sites.

See p. 212.

Soaking up red-rock views in Sedona: Whether it is with coffee in the

morning, with cocktails in the evening, or with the crowds atop Airport Mesa

at sunset, there is simply nothing more enjoyable than sitting back and soak-

ing up the incomparable views in Sedona. See p. 207.

ravel Experiences

WICKENBURG

The Best T 53 miles NW of Phoenix; 61 miles S of Prescott; 128 miles SE of Kingman

Known in the middle of the 20th century as the dude-ranch capital of the world,

Wickenburg once attracted celebrities and families from all over the country.

Those were the days when the West had only just stopped being wild, and spend-

ing the winter in Arizona was an adventure, not just a chance to escape snow and

RIZONA

ice. Today, although the area has only two dude (or guest) ranches still in busi-

A

ness, Wickenburg still clings to its Wild West image, and a chance to ride the

range is still the area’s main attraction.

Wickenburg was founded in 1863 by Henry Wickenburg, a Prussian prospec-

ENTRALC

tor who came to the desert in search of riches. He hit pay dirt just south of the town that now bears his name, and his Vulture Mine eventually became the most profitable gold and silver mine in Arizona. If you’ve come to Arizona searching for the

West the way it used to be, Wickenburg, with its ranches and gold-mining history, is a good place to look. The town has preserved one of its downtown streets much as

it may have looked in the early 1900s when this was a booming mining town. Just

don’t expect shootouts staged in the streets every day—this ain’t Tombstone.

180

Seligman

Central Arizona

Parks

40

Williams

Ash Fork

40

KAIBAB

Flagstaff

Area of

detail

Flagstaff

89

NATIONAL

17

ARIZONA

FOREST

Phoenix

13 Munds Mormon

Tucson

12

Park

Lake

Paulden

9

Mormon

11

Sedona Lake

10

PRESCOTT

Chino

Clarkdale

7

8

Valley

89A

ak Creek

179

NATIONAL

Jerome

6

O

Cottonwood

FOREST

Cornville

89A

5

COCONINO

260

NATIONAL

Prescott Valley

4

69

FOREST

169

Camp

3

Skull Valley

Prescott

Dewey

Verde

Humboldt

260

Wilhoit

87

Kirkland

Hillside

Mayer

Strawberry

Kirkland Jct.

Pine

2

89

PRESCOTT

Cordes Junction

Peeples

NATIONAL

Valley

FOREST Bumble

Yarnell

Bee

Aqua Fria

iver

Crown

TONTO

National

Congress

King

Monument

NATIONAL

erde R

89

V

93

FOREST

Black Canyon City

Rock Springs

Wickenburg

H

1

i

17

e

River

r

Lake

o

New River

lg

Pleasant

l

Vulture Mts.

y

Morristown

p

Cave

h

Sunflower

i

Creek

c

74

Circle City

M

Carefree

t

87

Wittman

s.

60

Agua Fria

0

20 mi

Beardsley

To Phoenix

Surprise

0

20 km

Arcosanti 2

Montezuma Castle

Boynton Canyon 11

National Monument 4

Crescent Moon

Oak Creek Canyon 13

Picnic Area 10

Palatki Heritage Site 9

Fort Verde State

Red Rock State Park 8

Historic Park 3

Slide Rock State Park 12

Hassayampa River

Tuzigoot National Monument

Preserve 1

& Dead Horse Ranch State Park 7

Jerome State Historic Park 6

V Bar V Heritage Site 5

181

Wickenburg is filled with historic buildings.

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Phoenix, drive north on I-17, then west on Ariz. 74,

5

continuing west on U.S. 60. From Prescott, take Ariz. 89. If you’re coming

from the west, take U.S. 60 from I-10. U.S. 93 comes down from I-40 in

northwestern Arizona.

g

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Wickenburg Chamber of Commerce,

216 N. Frontier St. ( 800/942-5242 or 928/684-5479; www.outwickenburg

way.com). The visitor center is open Monday through Friday from 9am to

ickenbur

5pm, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 2pm.

W SPECIAL EVENTS Gold Rush Days, held on the second full weekend in Feb-

ruary, is the biggest festival of the year in Wickenburg and has been for more

than 60 years. Events include gold panning, a rodeo, and shootouts in the

streets. On the second full weekend in November, the Bluegrass Festival

RIZONA

features fiddle and banjo contests. On the first weekend in December,

A

Wickenburg holds its annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering, with lots of

poetry and music.

Exploring Wickenburg

ENTRALC

While Wickenburg’s main attractions remain the guest ranches outside of town,

a walk around downtown also provides a glimpse of the Old West. Most of the

buildings here were built between 1890 and the 1920s (although a few are older),

and although not all of them look their age, there is just enough Western charac-

ter to make a stroll worthwhile (if it’s not too hot).

The old Santa Fe train station, on Frontier Street, is now the Wickenburg

Chamber of Commerce, where you can pick up a map that tells a bit about the

history of the town’s buildings. The brick post office, almost across the street from the train station, once had a ride-up window providing service to people on

horseback. Frontier Street is preserved as it looked in the early 1900s. The cov-

ered sidewalks and false fronts are characteristic of frontier architecture; the

false fronts often disguised older adobe buildings that were considered “uncivi-

lized” by settlers from back east. At the Garcia Little Red Schoolhouse, 245

182

N. Tegner St. ( 928/684-7473; www.wco.org), which has a gift shop and is

open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 2pm, you can even go back to

school. You’ll find the old schoolhouse next door to the Basha’s supermarket.

Two of the town’s most unusual attractions aren’t buildings at all. The Jail

Tree, behind the convenience store at the corner of Wickenburg Way and Tegner Street, is an old mesquite tree that served as the local hoosegow. Outlaws were

simply chained to the tree. Their families would often come to visit and have a

picnic in the shade of the tree. The second, equally curious, town attraction is

the Wishing Well, which stands beside the bridge over the Hassayampa. Leg-

end has it that anyone who drinks from the Hassayampa River will never tell the

truth again. How the well adjacent to the river became a wishing well is unclear.

Desert Caballeros Western Museum

MUSEUM Wickenburg

thrives on its Western heritage, and inside this museum you’ll find an outstanding

collection of Western art depicting life on the range, including works by Albert

Bierstadt, Thomas Moran, Charles Russell, Frederic Remington, Maynard

Dixon, and other members of the Cowboy Artists of America. The Hays “Spirit of

the Cowboy” collection is an impressive display of historical cowboy gear that

alone makes this museum worth a stop.

21 N. Frontier St. www.westernmuseum.org. 928/684-2272. Admission $7.50 adults, $6

seniors, free for children 17 and under. Labor Day to Memorial Day Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–4pm; other months closed Mon. Closed major holidays.

Hassayampa River Preserve NATURE RESERVE At one time, the Ari-

5

zona desert was laced with rivers that flowed for most, if not all, of the year. In

C

the past century, however, these rivers, and the riparian forests they once sup-

ENTRAL

ported, have disappeared at an alarming rate because of the damming of rivers

and the lowering of water tables by wells. Riparian areas support trees and plants

that require more water than is usually available in the desert, and this lush

A

growth provides food and shelter for hundreds of species of birds, mammals, and

RIZONA

Wickenbur

g

Desert Caballeros Western Museum.

183

Hassayampa River Preserve.

reptiles. Today, the riparian cottonwood-willow forests of the desert Southwest

are considered the country’s most endangered forest type.

The Nature Conservancy, a nonprofit organization dedicated to purchasing

and preserving threatened habitats, owns and manages the Hassayampa River

Preserve, which is now one of the state’s most important bird-watching sites (280

5 species of birds have been spotted here). Nature trails lead along the river

beneath cottonwoods and willows, and past the spring-fed Palm Lake. On-site

are a visitor center and bookshop. October through April, free naturalist-guided

g

walks are offered (usually on the last Saturday of the month at 8:30am; reserva-

tions recommended).

49614 N. U.S. 60 (milepost 114, 3 miles southeast of Wickenburg). www.nature.org. 928/684-ickenbur

2772. Suggested donation $5 ($3 for Nature Conservancy members). Mid-Sept to mid-May W Wed–Sun 8am–5pm; mid-May to mid-Sept Fri–Sun 7–11am. Closed Thanksgiving, day after Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day.

Outdoor Activities

If you’re in the area for more than a day or just can’t spend another minute in the

RIZONA A saddle, you can go out on a jeep tour and explore the desert backcountry with B.C. Jeep Tours ( 928/684-7901 or 928/231-1010; www.bcjeeptours.com)

Tours prices start at $60 per person with a two-person minimum. However, if

you’ve got time for only one jeep tour on your Arizona vacation, make it in Sedona.

ENTRALC

Los Caballeros Golf Club , 1551 S. Vulture Mine Rd. ( 928/684-

2704; www.loscaballerosgolf.com),

has been rated one of the best

Wickenburg After Dark

courses in the state. The greens

fee is $90 in the cooler months.

These days, stargazing and telling stories

Hikers should head south-

around the campfire aren’t the only things to

west of town to the end of Vulture

do after dark. The Del E. Webb Center for

Mine Road (off U.S. 60) to climb

the Performing Arts, 1090 S. Vulture Mine

Vulture Peak, which is a steep

Rd. ( 928/684-6624; www.delewebb

but rewarding climb best done in

center.org), brings a wide range of cultural

the cooler months. The views performances to a town that once knew only

from up top (or even just the sad-

horse operas.

dle near the top) are well worth

184

the effort. There are sometimes spectacular wildflower displays here in the

spring.

Where to Eat

If you’ll be staying at a guest ranch, all your meals will be provided. In town, you can get a quick lunch at the Horseshoe Café, 207 E. Wickenburg Way ( 928/

684-7377).

Where to Stay

Flying E Ranch This is a working cattle ranch with 20,000 high, wide, and

handsome acres for you and the cattle to roam. In business since 1946, the Fly-

ing E attracts plenty of repeat business, with families finding it a particularly

appealing and down-home kind of place. Accommodations vary in size, but all

have Western-style furnishings and either twin or king-size beds. Three family-

style meals are served in the wood-paneled dining room; but there’s no bar, so

you’ll need to bring your own liquor. However, the main lodge does have a spa-

cious lounge where guests like to gather by the fireplace. There are also breakfast

cookouts, lunch rides, hayrides, and evening chuck-wagon dinners. Horseback

riding costs an additional $40 to $60 per person per day.

2801 W. Wickenburg Way, Wickenburg, AZ 85390. www.flyingeranch.com. 888/684-2650 or 928/684-2690. Fax 928/684-5304. 17 units. $308–$392 double. Rates include all meals. 2- to 4-night minimum stay. AE, MC, V. Closed May–Oct. Drive 4 miles west of town on U.S. 60. Ame-5

nities: Dining room; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; sauna; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, free Wi-Fi.

CENTRAL

Rancho de los Caballeros

Located on 20,000 acres 2 miles west of

Wickenburg, Rancho de los Caballeros is part of an exclusive country-club com-

munity and, as such, feels more like a resort than a guest ranch. However, the

A

main lodge itself, with its flagstone floor, copper fireplace, and colorfully painted RIZONA

furniture, has a very Southwestern feel. Peace and quiet are the keynotes of a

visit here, and most guests focus on golf (the golf course is one of the best in the state) and horseback riding (not included in room rates). In addition, the ranch

has a spa and offers trap and skeet shooting and guided nature walks. Guest

rooms are filled with handcrafted furnishings, exposed-beam ceilings, Indian

Wickenbur

rugs, and, in some, tile floors and fireplaces. While breakfast and lunch are quite

casual, dinner is more formal, with proper attire required.

1551 S. Vulture Mine Rd. (off U.S. 60 west of town), Wickenburg, AZ 85390. www.sunc.com.

g

800/684-5030 or 928/684-5484. 79 units. Mid-Oct to Jan and late Apr to early May $405–

$520 double; Feb to mid-Apr $465–$625 double. Rates do not include 15% gratuity charge.

Rates include all meals. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s room. MC, V. Closed early May to mid-Oct. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; 18-hole golf course; exercise room; small outdoor pool; full-service spa; 4 tennis courts.

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

En Route to Prescott

Between Wickenburg and Prescott, Ariz. 89 climbs out of the desert at the town

of Yarnell, which lies at the top of a steep stretch of road. The landscape around Yarnell is a jumble of weather-worn granite boulders that give the town a unique

appearance. Several little crafts and antiques shops here are worth a stop. How-

ever, the town’s main claim to fame is the Shrine of St. Joseph of the

185

Mountains ( 928/778-5229; www.stjoseph-shrine.org), which is known for its carved stone Stations of the Cross. Watch for the sign to the shrine as you

drive through town.

PRESCOTT

100 miles N of Phoenix; 66 miles SW of Sedona; 87 miles SW of Flagstaff

Prescott, the former territorial capital, is an Arizona anomaly; it doesn’t seem like the Southwest at all. With its stately courthouse on a tree-shaded square, its

well-preserved historic downtown business district, and its old Victorian homes,

Prescott wears the air of the quintessential small Midwestern town. Prescott has

just about everything a small town should have: an 1890s saloon (the Palace), an

old cattlemen’s hotel (the Hassayampa Inn), a burger shop (Kendall’s), and a

brewpub (the Prescott Brewing Company). Add to this several small museums, a

couple of other historic hotels, the strange and beautiful landscape of the Gran-

ite Dells, and the nearby Prescott National Forest, and you have a town that

appeals to visitors with a diverse

range of interests.

To-Die-For Pies

The town’s pioneer history

dates from 1863, when the Walker

Just about midway between Phoenix and

party discovered gold in the moun-

Prescottoff I-17 at exit 242, you’ll find the

5 tains of central Arizona. Soon min- Rock Springs Café, 35769 S. Old Black Can-

ers were flocking to the area to

yon Hwy., Rock Springs ( 623/374-5794;

seek their own fortunes. A year

www.rockspringscafe.com), which has been in

later, Arizona became a U.S. terri-

business since 1918. Although this aging,

tory, and the new town of Prescott,

nondescript building looks like the sort of

escott

located right in the center of Ari-

Pr

place that would best be avoided, the packed

zona, was made the territorial cap-

parking lot says different. Why so popular?

ital. Prescott lost its statewide Many people claim its legendary pies are the

influence when the capital moved

best in the state. So popular are the pies here

to Phoenix, but because of the that every year, the Rock Springs Café sells

RIZONA

importance of ranching and min-

upwards of 50,000 of them.

A

ing in central Arizona, Prescott

continued to be a major regional

town. Today Prescott has become an upscale retirement community. In summer,

ENTRAL

Prescott is also a popular weekend getaway for Phoenicians; it is usually 20°

C

cooler here than it is in Phoenix (and most winters even see some snow).

Essentials

GETTING THERE Prescott is at the junction of Ariz. 89, Ariz. 89A, and Ariz. 69.

If you’re coming from Phoenix, take the Cordes Junction exit (exit 262)

from I-17. From Flagstaff, the most direct route is I-17 to Ariz. 169 to Ariz.

69. From Sedona, just take Ariz. 89A all the way.

Shuttle “U” ( 800/304-6114 or 928/442-1000; www.shuttleu.com)

provides service to Prescott from Sky Harbor Airport for $29 to $32 one-way,

$58 to $64 round-trip.

VISITOR INFORMATION The

Prescott Chamber of Commerce is at 117 W.

Goodwin St. ( 800/266-7534 or 928/445-2000; www.visit-prescott.

com). The visitor center is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm,

and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 2pm.

186

CITY LAYOUT Ariz. 89 comes into Prescott on the northeast side of town, where

it joins with Ariz. 69 coming in from the east. Five miles north of town, Ariz.

89A from Sedona also merges with Ariz. 89. The main street into town is

Gurley Street, which forms the north side of Courthouse Plaza. Monte-

zuma Street, also known as Whiskey Row, forms the west side of the plaza.

If you continue south on Montezuma Street, you’ll be on Ariz. 89 heading

toward Wickenburg.

SPECIAL EVENTS The

World’s Oldest Rodeo ( 800/358-1888 or 928/445-

3103; www.worldsoldestrodeo.com) is Prescott’s biggest annual event and is

held in early July. In early June, there’s Territorial Days, which includes

special art exhibits, performances, tournaments, races, and lots of food and

free entertainment. In mid-July, the Sharlot Hall Museum hosts the

Prescott Indian Art Market. In December, the city is decked out with

lights, and there are numerous holiday events.

Exploring Prescott

A walk around Courthouse Plaza should be your first introduction to Prescott.

The stately old courthouse in the middle of the tree-shaded plaza sets the tone

for the whole town. The building dates from the days when Prescott was the

capital of the Arizona territory. Under the big shade trees, you’ll find several

bronze statues of cowboys and soldiers.

Surrounding the courthouse and extending north for a block is Prescott’s 5

historic business district. Stroll around admiring the brick buildings, and

you’ll realize that Prescott was once a very important place. Duck into an old

CENTRAL

saloon or the lobby of one of the historic hotels, and you’ll understand that the

town was also part of the Wild West.

ARIZONA

Prescott

Prescott’s Courthouse Plaza.

Frémont House at the Sharlot Hall Museum.

187

A Big Little Collection

Prescott is home to Embry-Riddle Aero-

Howard Hughes’s famed “Spruce

nautical University, and in the university

Goose,” are much larger. You’ll find the

library, you can marvel at the world’s

airplane collection in cases on the first

largest collection of miniature airplanes.

and second floors of the Christine and

The Kalusa Miniature Airplane Collec-

Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Library and Learn-

tion, which includes more than 5,500

ing Center, Embry-Riddle Aeronautical

hand-carved and hand-painted minia-

University, 3700 Willow Creek Rd. ( 928/

ture airplanes, was created by John W.

777-3758; http://library.pr.erau.edu/

Kalusa over a period of more than 50

collections/kalusa.php). Contact the

years. Many of the planes are barely an

library for current hours.

inch across, while others, such as

Fort Whipple Museum Located north of town off Ariz. 89 on the grounds

of what is now a Veterans Affairs hospital, this museum focuses on the history of

this fort, which was active from 1863 to 1922 and has many stately officers’

homes. Don’t miss the display about Fiorello LaGuardia’s time at the fort.

Veterans Affairs campus, Bldg. 11, 500 N. Ariz. 89. 928/445-3122. Free admission. Thurs–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

5 Phippen Museum MUSEUM If you’re a fan of classic Western art, you

won’t want to miss this museum. Located on a hill a few miles north of town, the

Phippen is named after the first president of the prestigious Cowboy Artists of

America organization and exhibits works by both established Western artists and

escott

newcomers. Also on display are artifacts and photos that help place the artwork

Pr in the context of the region’s history. The Phippen Museum Western Art

Show & Sale is held each year on Memorial Day weekend.

4701 Ariz. 89 N. www.phippenartmuseum.org. 928/778-1385. Admission $7 adults, $5 students, free for children 12 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm. Closed Thanksgiving RIZONA

and Christmas.

A

Sharlot Hall Museum MUSEUM Opened in 1928 in a log home that

once served as the governor’s mansion of the Arizona territory, this museum was

founded by Sharlot Hall, who served as the territorial historian from 1909 to

ENTRALC

1911. In addition to the governor’s “mansion,” which is furnished much as it

might have been when it was built, several other interesting buildings can be

toured. With its traditional wood-frame construction, the Frémont House, which

was built in 1875 for the fifth territorial governor, shows how quickly Prescott

grew from a remote logging and mining camp into a civilized little town. The

1877 Bashford House reflects the Victorian architecture that was popular

throughout the country around the end of the 19th century. The Sharlot Hall

Building houses exhibits on Native American cultures and territorial Arizona.

Every year in early summer, artisans, craftspeople, and costumed exhibitors par-

ticipate in the Folk Arts Fair.

415 W. Gurley St. www.sharlot.org. 928/445-3122. Admission $5 adults, free for children 17

and under. May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun

noon–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

188

The Smoki Museum MUSEUM This interesting little museum, which

houses a collection of Native American artifacts in a historic stone building, is

named for the fictitious Smoki tribe. The tribe was dreamed up in 1921 by a

group of non-Indians who wanted to inject some new life into Prescott’s July 4th

celebrations. Despite its phony origins, the museum contains genuine artifacts

and basketry from many different tribes, mainly Southwestern. The museum also

sponsors interesting lectures on Native American topics.

147 N. Arizona St. www.smokimuseum.org. 928/445-1230. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 students, free for children 12 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Outdoor Activities

Prescott is situated on the edge of a wide expanse of high plains with the pine

forests of Prescott National Forest at its back. Within the national forest are lakes, campgrounds, and many miles of hiking and mountain biking trails. My

favorite hiking and biking areas in the national forest are Thumb Butte (west of

town) and the Granite Mountain Wilderness (northwest of town).

Thumb Butte, a rocky outcropping that towers over the forest just west of

town, is Prescott’s most easily recognizable natural landmark. A 1.2-mile trail

leads nearly to the top of this butte, and from the saddle near the summit, there’s

a panoramic vista of the entire region. The trail is very steep but paved much of

the way. The summit of the butte is a popular rock-climbing spot. An alternative

5

return trail makes a loop hike possible. To reach the trailhead, drive west out of

town on Gurley Street, which becomes Thumb Butte Road. Follow the road until

C

you see the National Forest signs, after which there’s a parking lot, picnic area,

ENTRAL

and trailhead. The parking fee is $2.

The Granite Basin Recreation Area provides access to the Granite Moun-

tain Wilderness. Trails lead beneath the cliffs of Granite Mountain, where you A

might spot peregrine falcons. For the

RIZONA

best views, hike 1.5 miles to Blair Pass

and then on up the Granite Mountain

trail as far as you feel like going. To

reach this area, take Gurley Street west

Pr

from downtown, turn right on Grove

escott

Avenue, and follow it around to Iron

Springs Road, which will take you

northwest out of town to the signed

road for the Granite Basin Recreation

Area (less than 8 miles from down-

town). There is a $5 parking fee here.

Both of the above areas also offer

mountain biking trails. Although the

scenery isn’t as spectacular as in the

Sedona area, the trails are great. You

can rent a bike and get maps and spe-

cific trail recommendations at Iron-

clad Bicycles, 710 White Spar Rd.

( 928/776-1755; www.ironclad

bicycles.com), which charges $24 to

$48 per day for mountain bikes.

Prescott’s landmark Thumb Butte.

189

For maps and information on these and other hikes and bike rides in the

area, stop by the Bradshaw Ranger Station, 344 S. Cortez St. ( 928/443-

8000; www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott).

North of town 5 miles on Ariz. 89 is an unusual and scenic area known as

the Granite Dells

. Jumbled hills of rounded granite suddenly jut from the

landscape, creating a maze of huge boulders and smooth rock. In the middle of

this dramatic landscape lies Watson Lake, the waters of which push their way in among the boulders to create one of the prettiest lakes in the state. On the

highway side of the lake, you’ll find Watson Lake Park, 3101 Watson Lake Rd.

( 928/777-1122; www.cityofprescott.net/services/parks), which has picnic

tables and great views. Spring through fall (weather permitting), you can rent

canoes and kayaks ($15–$20 for the first hour and $10–$15 per hour after

that) at the lake Friday through Sunday from 8am to 4pm. Reservations aren’t

accepted, but you can call Prescott Outdoors ( 928/925-1410; www.

prescottoutdoors.com) to make sure they’ll be at the lake with their boats. There’s

a $2 parking fee in the park.

For hiking in the Watson Lake area, I recommend heading to the scenic

Peavine Trail

, which is one of the most gratifying easy hikes in the state.

To find the trailhead, turn east onto Prescott Lake Parkway, which is between

Prescott and the Granite Dells, and then turn left onto Sun Dog Ranch Road.

This rails-to-trails path extends for several miles through the middle of the Gran-

5 ite Dells and is the best way to fully appreciate the Dells (you’ll be away from

both people and the highway). Although this is a fascinating, easy hike, it also

makes a great, equally easy, mountain bike ride that can be extended 7.5 miles on

the Iron King Trail. Also accessible from this same trailhead is the Watson

Woods Riparian Preserve, which has some short trails through the wetlands

escott

and riparian zone along Granite Creek. There’s a $2 parking fee at the trailhead.

Pr

At the northern edge of the Granite Dells, you can hike the 2.75 miles of

interconnected Constellation Trails, which are named for a military plane that RIZONA A

ENTRALC

Granite Dells is a maze of boulders.

190

crashed here in 1959. The network of trails here is on the west side of Ariz. 89,

but the trailhead parking lot is adjacent to the parking lot for the Phippen

Museum, which makes these trails a very convenient place to stretch your legs

before or after a visit to the museum. For information on this and other Prescott

trails, go to http://cityofprescott.net/services/parks/trails.

A couple of miles west of Watson Lake you can hike in Willow Lake Park,

1497 Heritage Park Rd. ( 928/777-1121; www.cityofprescott.net/services/

parks). Parking areas on Willow Creek Road provide access to several miles of

trails that lead through grasslands and groves of huge cottonwood trees adjacent

to Willow Lake. The trails eventually lead to the edge of the Granite Dells.

There’s great bird-watching in the trees in this park, and there are even great blue heron and cormorant rookeries. The trailhead on Heritage Park Road provides

access to the Willow Dells Trails network. These trails meander through the

jumbled boulders of the Granite Dells and are some of the most fascinating trails

in the state. There’s a $2 parking fee at park trailheads.

If you want to explore the area on horseback, try Granite Mountain Stables,

2400 Shane Dr. ( 928/771-9551; www.granitemountainstables.com), which

offers guided trail rides in the Prescott National Forest. A 1-hour ride is $35.

Reasonably priced golf is available at the 36-hole Antelope Hills Golf

Course, 1 Perkins Dr. ( 800/972-6818 or 928/776-7888; www.antelopehills golf.com). Greens fees range from $40 to $45.

Nearby Attractions

5

If you appreciate innovative architecture, don’t miss an opportunity to tour Arco-C

santi ( 928/632-7135; www.arcosanti.org), Italian architect Paolo Soleri’s ENTRAL

vision of the future—a “city” that merges architecture and ecology. Soleri, who

came to Arizona to study with Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesin West, envisions a

compact, energy-efficient city that disturbs the natural landscape as little as pos-

A

sible—and that’s just what’s rising out of the desert here at Arcosanti. The organic RIZONA

design built of cast concrete will fascinate both students of architecture and

those with only a passing interest in the discipline. Arcosanti has been built pri-

marily with the help of students and volunteers who live here for various lengths

of time. To help finance the construction, Soleri designs and sells wind bells cast

in bronze or made of ceramic. These distinctive bells are available at the gift

Prescott

shop. Arcosanti is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and tours are held hourly (except

at noon) between 10am and 4pm ($10 suggested donation). If you’d like to stay

overnight, basic accommodations ($40–$100 double) are available by reserva-

tion. There’s also a cafe that serves buffet meals to overnight guests. You’ll find

Arcosanti at the junction of Ariz. 69 and I-17 (exit 262 off I-17).

East of I-17 between Cordes Junction and Black Canyon City (south toward

Phoenix) lies Agua Fria National Monument, which is administered by the

Bureau of Land Management, 21605 N. Seventh Ave., Phoenix ( 623/580-

5500; www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/natmon/afria.html). The

monument protects the numerous ruin sites that date from between 1250 and

1450 (at least 450 prehistoric sites are known to exist in this area). There is very limited access to the monument, and there are no facilities for visitors. If you

have a high-clearance vehicle, preferably four-wheel-drive, you can enter the

monument from I-17 at the Badger Springs exit (exit 256) or the Bloody Basin

Road exit (exit 259).

191

Where to Eat

Grab picnic fare at New Frontiers Natural Foods, 1112 W. Iron Springs Rd.

( 928/445-7370). For delicious baked goods, including savory turnovers, stop in at the Pangaea Bakery, 220 W. Goodwin St., Ste. 1 ( 928/778-2953;

www.pangaeabakery.com), which is half a block off Whiskey Row. For a quick,

juicy burger or some ice cream, stop in at Kendall’s Famous Burgers & Ice

Cream, 113 S. Cortez St. ( 928/778-3658). For coffee, I like the Wild Iris Coffeehouse, 124 S. Granite St. ( 928/778-5155; www.wildiriscoffee.com), which is on the street behind Whiskey Row and overlooks Granite Creek.

EXPENSIVE

The Rose Restaurant CONTINENTAL This little restaurant, housed in

a building that was constructed in 1900 and moved to this spot around 1910, has

long been popular with Prescott locals and visitors alike. While much of the

menu has a distinctly continental flavor, there are also plenty of dishes drawing

on Asian and Latin American influences. You can start your meal with escargot,

foie gras, or seared-duck potstickers, and then move on to lamb chops with fen-

nel pollen and minted demi-glace, crab-stuffed filet mignon with béarnaise

sauce, or seared duck breast with date sauce and a sweet-potato pancake. The

wine list includes plenty of reasonably priced options. Although prices here are

high, the Rose is one of Prescott’s best restaurants and is your best bet for an

5 elegant fine-dining experience while in town.

234 S. Cortez St. www.theroserestaurant.com. 928/777-8308. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $19–$36. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 5–8pm.

MODERATE

escott

El Gato Azul MEDITERRANEAN Whether you’re ravenous from a long

Pr day of hiking in the Granite Mountain Wilderness or still full from a big lunch,

this casual creekside restaurant in downtown Prescott is a great choice. You can

have as few or as many tapas (small plates) as it takes to fill you up. I like to order as many little appetizers as possible so I can pack in lots of different flavors. Try RIZONA

the blackened scallops, the bacon-wrapped shrimp, or the chicken satay. If you A

want something substantial, you can also order a nice big entree such as snapper

with romesco sauce or shrimp in a creamy cilantro pesto.

316 W. Goodwin St. www.elgatoazulprescott.com. 928/445-1070. Reservations recommen-ENTRAL

ded. Main courses $9–$12 lunch, $12–$22 dinner; tapas $4–$9. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily C

11am–9pm.

Murphy’s AMERICAN Murphy’s, housed in an 1890 mercantile building

that’s on the National Register of Historic Places, has long been one of Prescott’s

favorite special-occasion restaurants. Sparkling leaded-glass doors usher diners

into a high-ceilinged room with fans revolving slowly overhead. Many of the

shop’s original shelves can still be seen in the lounge area, and the restaurant

does a good job of creating a historical ambience. The best bets on the menu are

the mesquite-grilled meats, but the fish specials can also be good. You can save a

bit of money by dining early (from 4–6pm) and ordering one of the sunset

dinners.

201 N. Cortez St. 928/445-4044. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9.50–$36. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

192

INEXPENSIVE

Bill’s Grill AMERICAN This little burger joint is a few blocks south of Court-

house Plaza in a cottage with a big covered porch on two sides. The menu is

simple, with plenty of interesting burgers and a build-your-own-burger list that

lets you customize your burger just the way you want. There are almost 20 sauces

(chipotle cream, mango salsa, chimichurri) to go on top of the burgers, as well as

more than a dozen toppings such as sun-dried tomatoes, fresh-roasted chilies,

onion straws, and artichoke hearts. The beef is ground in house from locally

raised hormone-free cattle. The sweet-potato fries are a great accompaniment.

There’s also a good list of local microbrews.

333 S. Montezuma St. 928/237-9138. Main courses $4.50–$9.50. No credit cards. Tues–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Dinner Bell Café AMERICAN This casual little breakfast-and-lunch

place is a big hit with local students and other people in the know who come to

order either the waffles (served with a variety of toppings) or the thick, juicy burgers. The waffles are available at lunch, but I don’t think you can get the burger at breakfast. The Dinner Bell has a split personality. Up front there’s a classic old

diner that’s been in business since 1939, while in back there’s a colorful modern

space with walls that roll up. The setting, a block off Whiskey Row, makes this a

great little hideaway for a quick, casual meal, and kids will enjoy wandering along

the adjacent creekside path.

321 W. Gurley St. 928/445-9888. Main courses $5–$11. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 6:30am–

5

2pm; Sat–Sun 7am–2pm.

CENTRAL

Shopping

Downtown Prescott is filled with

antiques stores, especially along North

A

Cortez Street, and is the best place in

RIZONA

Arizona to do some antiques shopping.

For Native American crafts and Old

West memorabilia, be sure to stop in at

Ogg’s Hogan, 111 N. Cortez St.

( 928/443-9856). In the Hotel St.

Prescott

Michael’s shopping arcade, check out

Hotel Trading, 110 S. Montezuma

St. ( 928/778-7276), which carries

some genuine Native American arti-

facts at reasonable prices. Owner

Ernie Lister also makes silver jewelry

in the 19th-century Navajo style. In

this same arcade, you’ll find the Old

Sage Bookshop, 110 S. Montezuma

St. ( 928/776-1136), a wonderful

little used-book store selling primarily

hardback editions. On the same block

are both the Arts Prescott Gallery,

134 S. Montezuma St. ( 928/776-

7717; www.artsprescott.com), a coop-

erative of local artists, and Van Gogh’s Prescott’s North Cortez Street is filled with antiques stores.

193

Ear, 156B S. Montezuma St. ( 928/776-1080; www.vgegallery.com), which was founded by a splinter group from the co-op. Also on this block you’ll find the

Newman Gallery, 106-A S. Montezuma St. ( 928/442-9167; www.newman

gallery.net), which features the colorful Western-inspired pop-culture imagery of

artist Dave Newman. Right next door, you can buy almost any sort of hat at Put-

tin’ on the Hats, 106 S. Montezuma St. ( 928/776-1150).

Want to sample some local wine while you’re in the area? Head north of

Prescott to Granite Creek Vineyards, 2515 Rd. 1 E., Chino Valley ( 928/636-2003; www.granitecreekvineyards.com), which produces organic, sulfite-free

wines that are surprisingly good. The winery is open Friday through Sunday from

1 to 5pm. Call for directions.

Entertainment & Nightlife

Back in the days when Prescott was the territorial capital and a booming mining

town, it supported dozens of rowdy saloons, most of which were concentrated

along Montezuma Street on the west side of Courthouse Plaza. This section of

town was known as Whiskey Row, and legend has it there was a tunnel from the courthouse to one of the saloons so lawmakers wouldn’t have to be seen ducking

into the saloons during regular business hours. On July 14, 1900, a fire con-

sumed most of Whiskey Row. However, concerned cowboys and miners man-

aged to drag the tremendously heavy bar of the Palace saloon across the street

5 before it was damaged.

Today, Whiskey Row still has a few noisy saloons with genuine Wild West

flavor. Most of them feature live country music on weekends and are the sort of

watering holes that provide solace to a cowboy (or a construction worker) after a

long day’s work. However, within a few blocks of Whiskey Row, you can hear

escott

country, folk, jazz, and rock at a surprisingly diverse assortment of bars, restau-

Pr rants, and clubs. In fact, Prescott has one of the densest concentrations of live-music clubs in the state.

RIZONA A

ENTRALC

The Palace is a good example of the saloons of Prescott’s past.

194

To see what this street’s saloons looked like back in the old days, drop by the

Palace, 120 S. Montezuma St. ( 928/541-1996; www.historicpalace.com), which still has a classic bar up front. These days, the Palace is more of a restaurant than a saloon, but there’s live music on the weekends. Once a month, there

is also a dinner-theater performance. Call to find out if anything is happening

while you’re in town.

Upstairs, the Jersey Lilly Saloon, 116 S. Montezuma St. ( 928/541-

7854; www.jerseylillyprescott.com), attracts a more well heeled clientele than the street-level saloons. On weekends, there is live music in a wide range of styles. Just around the corner from the Palace and the Jersey Lilly is the Prescott Brewing

Company, 130 W. Gurley St. ( 928/771-2795; www.prescottbrewingcompany.

com), which is today’s answer to the saloons of yore, brewing and serving its own

tasty microbrews. A block away you’ll find the Raven Café, 142 N. Cortez St.

( 928/717-0009; www.ravencafe.com), which is the most artsy and eclectic

nightlife venue in town. Not only does the Raven have the best beer list in Prescott (with an emphasis on Belgian beers and American microbrews), but the entertainment lineup ranges from Monday-night movies to live jazz and bluegrass.

The Prescott Center for the Arts Theatre and Gallery, 208 N. Marina

St. ( 928/445-3286; www.pfaa.net), stages plays, music performances, chil-

dren’s theater, and art exhibits. The association’s main building, a former church

built in 1899, is on the National Register of Historic Places. A block away, you’ll

find the Prescott Elks Theatre, 117 E. Gurley St. ( 928/777-1367; www.

elksoperahouse.com), a renovated opera house that was built in 1905. Yavapai 5

College Performance Hall, 1100 E. Sheldon St. ( 877/928-4253 or 928/

C

776-2000; www.yc.edu/content/communityevents) also stages a wide range of

ENTRAL

shows. And check the schedule at the Sharlot Hall Museum’s Blue Rose The-

ater, 415 W. Gurley St. ( 928/445-3122; www.sharlot.org). Also, each year in early December, Prescott stages Acker Night (www.ackershowcase.com), a city-A

wide showcase of local talent. As many as 100 Prescott businesses host musical

RIZONA

groups on the night of the event.

Where to Stay

MODERATE

Pr

Hassayampa Inn Built as a luxury hotel in 1927, the Hassayampa Inn,

escott

which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, evokes the time when

Prescott was the bustling territorial capital. In the lobby, exposed ceiling beams,

wrought-iron chandeliers, and arched doorways all reflect the place’s Southwest-

ern heritage. Unfortunately, guest rooms are not as impressive as the lobby.

Rooms tend to be very small but do have original furnishings or antiques. Some

suites are very oddly configured; you might find the shower in one converted

closet and the commode in another. One room is said to be haunted; any hotel

employee will be happy to tell you the story of the ill-fated honeymooners whose

ghosts supposedly reside here.

122 E. Gurley St., Prescott, AZ 86301. www.hassayampainn.com. 800/322-1927 or 928/778-9434. Fax 928/717-0143. 67 units. $79–$209 double; $149–$239 suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

The Pleasant Street Inn Downtown Prescott is full of beautiful old Victo-

rian homes, but this is one of the only ones that’s a bed-and-breakfast inn. In this 195

old house, innkeeper Jeanne Wat-

Jail Brakes?

kins eschews the sort of over-the-

top decor characteristic of most

One unforeseen hazard of open-pit mining

Victorian B&Bs. What you’ll find

next to a town built on a 30-degree slope

is simply furnished but very com-

was the effect dynamiting would have on

fortable guest rooms and common

Jerome. Mine explosions would regularly

areas. Although the large upstairs

rock Jerome’s world, and eventually build-

Pine View Suite, which has a fire-

ings in town began sliding downhill. Even

place, is my favorite, the down-

the town jail broke loose. With no jail brakes

stairs Terrace Suite, with its little

to stop it, the jail slid 225 feet downhill.

deck, is also a good choice. This

(Now that’s a jailbreak.)

pleasant inn is only 3 blocks from

Courthouse Plaza.

142 S. Pleasant St., Prescott, AZ 86303. www.pleasantbandb.com. 877/226-7128 or 928/445-4774. 4 units. $130 double; $160–$185 suite. DISC, MC, V. Children 12 and older welcome. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Rocamadour Bed & Breakfast for (Rock) Lovers

The Granite

Dells, just north of Prescott, is the area’s most unforgettable feature. Should you

wish to stay amid these jumbled boulders, there’s no better choice than Rocama-

dour. Mike and Twila Coffey honed their innkeeping skills as owners of a 40-room

5 château in France, and antique furnishings from that château can now be found

throughout this inn. The most elegant pieces are in the Chambre Trucy, which

also boasts an amazing underlit whirlpool tub. A cottage built on top of the boul-

ders has a large deck. The unique setting, engaging innkeepers, and thoughtful

details everywhere you turn make this one of the state’s must-stay inns.

escott

3386 N. Ariz. 89, Prescott, AZ 86301. 928/771-1933. 3 units. $149–$169 double; $219 suite.

Pr Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

Hotel St. Michael Located right on Whiskey Row, this hotel, complete

with resident ghost and the oldest elevator in Prescott, offers a historic setting at RIZONA

budget prices (don’t expect the most stylish furnishings). All rooms are different;

A

some have bathtubs but no showers. Its restaurant, the casual Bistro St. Michael,

overlooks Courthouse Plaza.

205 W. Gurley St., Prescott, AZ 86301. www.stmichaelhotel.com. 800/678-3757 or 928/776-ENTRALC

1999. Fax 928/776-7318. 72 units. $59–$99 double; $89–$119 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Vendome Not quite as luxurious as the Hassayampa, yet not as

basic as the St. Michael, the Vendome is a good middle-price choice for those

who want to stay in a historic hotel. Built in 1917 as a lodging house, the restored brick building is only 2 blocks from the action of Whiskey Row, but far enough

away that you can get a good night’s sleep. Guest rooms are outfitted with mod-

ern furnishings, but some of the bathrooms still contain original claw-foot tubs.

The two-bedroom units, with an interconnected bathroom, are ideal for families.

I just hope your kids will be able to sleep in this haunted hotel. (Like a couple of other hotels in town, the Vendome has its own resident ghost.)

230 S. Cortez St., Prescott, AZ 86303. www.vendomehotel.com. 888/468-3583 or 928/776-0900. 20 units. $79–$149 double; $119–$199 2-bedroom unit. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Lounge; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

196

The Motor Lodge Originally opened in 1910 as a collection of summer cab-

ins, this vintage getaway has been revived as a midcentury modern motor court.

Rooms are decorated with retro furnishings that are more Scottsdale hip than

Prescott country, but if you want to stay someplace with a hip aesthetic, this is

about your only choice in town. Keep in mind that this is budget hip and rooms

vary in size and amenities.

503 S. Montezuma St., Prescott, AZ 86303. www.themotorlodge.com. 928/717-0157. 12

units. $89–$139 double. 2-night minimum on certain holidays. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Bikes. In room: TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

JEROME

35 miles NE of Prescott; 28 miles W of Sedona; 130 miles N of Phoenix

Few towns anywhere in Arizona make more of an impression on visitors than

Jerome, a historic mining town that clings to the slopes of Cleopatra Hill high on

Mingus Mountain. The town is divided into two sections that are separated by an

elevation change of 1,500 vertical feet, with the upper part of town 2,000 feet

above the Verde Valley. On a clear day, the view from Jerome is stupendous—it’s

possible to see for more than 50 miles, with the red rocks of Sedona, the Mogol-

lon Rim, and the San Francisco Peaks all visible in the distance. Add to the

unforgettable views the abundance of interesting shops and galleries and the

winding narrow streets, and you have a town that should not be missed.

5

Once known as the billion-dollar copper camp, Jerome was founded in

1883 and by the 1920s was the fourth largest city in Arizona. In the early years,

C

Jerome’s ore was mined using an 88-mile-long network of underground railroads.

ENTRAL

However, in 1918 a fire broke out in the mine tunnels, and mining companies

were forced to abandon the tunnels in favor of open-pit mining.

Between 1883 and 1953, Jerome experienced an economic roller-coaster

A

ride as the price of copper rose and fell. In the early 1950s, when it was no longer RIZONA

profitable to mine the copper ore of Cleopatra Hill, the last mining company shut

down its operations, and almost everyone left town. By the early 1960s, Jerome

Jer

ome

Jerome sits on the slopes of Cleopatra Hill on Mingus Mountain.

197

looked as though it were on its way to becoming just another ghost town—but

then artists who had discovered the phenomenal views and dirt-cheap rents

began moving in, and slowly the would-be ghost town developed a reputation as

an artists’ community. Soon tourists began visiting to see and buy the artwork that

was being created in Jerome, and old storefronts turned into galleries.

Jerome is now far from a ghost town, and on summer weekends the streets

are packed with visitors browsing the galleries and crafts shops. The same remote

and rugged setting that once made it difficult and expensive to mine copper has

now become one of the town’s main attractions. Because Jerome is built on a

steep slope, streets through town switch back from one level of houses to the

next, with narrow alleys and stairways connecting the different levels of town. All

these winding streets, alleys, and stairways are lined with old brick and wood-

frame buildings that cling precariously to the side of the mountain. The entire

town has been designated a National Historic Landmark, and today, residences,

studios, shops, and galleries stand side by side looking (externally, anyway) much

as they did when Jerome was an active mining town.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Jerome is on Ariz. 89A roughly halfway between Sedona and

Prescott. Coming from Phoenix, take Ariz. 260 from Camp Verde.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Jerome Chamber of Commerce ( 928/

5

634-2900; www.jeromechamber.com) for information.

Exploring Jerome

Wandering the streets, soaking up the atmosphere, and shopping are the main

ome

pastimes in Jerome. But before you launch yourself on a shopping tour, you can

Jer learn about the town’s past at the Jerome State Historic Park, off Ariz. 89A on Douglas Road in the lower section of town ( 928/634-5381; www.azstate

parks.com). Located in a mansion built in 1916 as a home for mine owner “Raw-

hide Jimmy” Douglas and as a hotel for visiting mining executives, the Jerome

State Historic Park contains exhibits on mining as well as a few of the mansion’s

RIZONA A original furnishings. From its perch on a hill above Douglas’s Little Daisy Mine, the mansion overlooks Jerome and, dizzyingly far below, the Verde Valley. The

mansion was constructed of adobe bricks made on the site and once contained a

wine cellar, billiards room, marble shower, steam heat, and central vacuum sys-

ENTRALC

tem. The park is open Thursday through Monday from 8:30am to 5pm, and

admission is $5 for adults and $2 for children 7 to 13.

Adjacent to the park is the Audrey Head Frame Park, which preserves an

old mining structure that once raised copper ore from deep inside Mingus Moun-

tain. The steel-head frame structure rises above the old mine shaft, which is

1,900 feet deep. With a glass floor to seal off the shaft, it is now possible to stand directly above the old mine shaft.

To learn more about Jerome’s history, stop in at the Jerome Historical

Society’s Mine Museum, 200 Main St. ( 928/634-5477; www.jerome

historicalsociety.org), which has some small and old-fashioned displays on min-

ing. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is $2 for adults, $1 for seniors,

and free for children 12 and under. The second floor of the gift shop Liberty

Theatre & Gifts, 110 Jerome Ave. ( 928/649-9016; www.jeromeliberty theater.com), was a theater back in the town’s heyday. The theater is now being

slowly restored and is open to the public. Although small, the theater museum

198

Jerome’s side streets are filled with shops and Works at the Jerome Artists Cooperative galleries.

Gallery.

here is fun to wander through, and a film about the history of Jerome is usually 5

playing in the old theater. For that classic mining-town tourist-trap experience,

follow the signs up the hill from downtown Jerome to the Gold King Mine

CENTRAL

( 928/634-0053; www.goldkingmineghosttown.com), where you can see lots

of old, rusting mining equipment and maybe even catch a demonstration. The

mine is open 10am to 5pm daily, and admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors,

A

and $3 for children ages 6 to 12.

RIZONA

Most visitors come to Jerome for the shops, which offer an eclectic blend of

contemporary art, chic jewelry, one-of-a-kind handmade fashions, and unusual

imports. Of course, the inevitable ice-cream parlors and shops full of tacky sou-

venirs are present, too. To see what local artists are creating, stop in at the

Jerome Artists Cooperative Gallery, 502 N. Main St. ( 928/639-4276;

Jer

www.jeromeartistscoop.com), on the west side of the street where Hull Avenue

ome

and Main Street fork as you come up the hill into town. For leather goods, stop

in at Altai Leather Designs, 415 Main St. ( 928/639-2221; www.altai leather.com), which is across the street from the co-op gallery. Don’t miss the

eclectic offerings—everything from surplus Russian army and navy uniforms to

feather boas—of the brothel-themed House of Joy, 416 N. Hull Ave. ( 928/

634-5339; www.jeromesfinest.com), which is just up the street from the co-op gallery. A little farther up the road, the Raku Gallery, 250 Hull Ave. ( 928/639-0239; www.rakugallery.com), has gallery space on two floors, and from the walls of glass across the back, there are views of the red rocks of Sedona in the distance. Don’t miss Nellie Bly, 136 Main St. ( 928/634-0255; www.nelliebly scopes.com), a shop full of handmade kaleidoscopes. Head down Main Street to

find Aurum Jewelry, 369 Main St. ( 928/634-3330; www.aurumjewelry.

com), which has a beautiful and eclectic collection of jewelry. A couple of doors

away, you’ll find Pura Vida Gallery, 501 School St. ( 928/634-0937; www.

puravidagalleryjerome.com), which has a fascinating and eclectic selection of

fine art, jewelry, and unusual Southwest-inspired furniture and fashions.

199

Jerome now has three winery tasting rooms, two of which are affiliated. My

favorite of the town’s wineries is Caduceus Cellars, 158 Main St. ( 928/639-9463; www.caduceus.org), which charges $7 to $12 to taste four wines. This

tasting room is open Sunday through Thursday from 11am to 6pm and Friday

and Saturday from 11am to 8pm. The town’s other two wineries are not as reli-

able as Caduceus Cellars, but some good wines can be found at both the Jerome

Winery, 403 Clark St. ( 928/639-9067; www.jeromewinery.com), and Bitter Creek Winery, 240 Hull Ave. ( 928/634-7033; www.bittercreekwinery.

com). Both of these tasting rooms charge $8 to $10 for four tastes. Hours at these

two tasting rooms vary with the time of year, but both are usually open daily from

11am to 4pm.

If you’re in the market for local art, be sure to drop by the Old Jerome

High School, which is on Ariz. 89A downhill from the main part of town and is full of artists’ studios. On the first Saturday of each month, all of the studios here are open from 5 to 9pm for the Jerome Art Walk. Across the street from the old

high school, you’ll find Copper Mountain Antiques ( 928/634-3273),

which is filled with fascinating antiques, many made of copper and many from

France.

Where to Eat

The Asylum SOUTHWESTERN As the name would imply, this restau-

5 rant (inside a former hospital building high above downtown Jerome) is a bit out

of the ordinary. The bedpan full of candy at the front desk and the odd little notes in the menu will also make it absolutely clear that this place doesn’t take much,

other than good food, seriously. I like the distinctly Southwestern dishes, includ-

ome

ing the prickly-pear barbecued pork tenderloin with tomatillo salsa, and an

Jer unusual butternut-squash soup made with a cinnamon-lime cream sauce. Cock-

tails all get wacky loony-bin names, and there’s also a superb, award-winning

wine list.

200 Hill St. www.theasylum.biz. 928/639-3197. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$16 lunch, $20–$32 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–3pm and 5–9pm.

RIZONA A Flatiron Café LIGHT FARE The tiny Flatiron Café is a simple breakfast-

and-lunch spot in, you guessed it, Jerome’s version of a flatiron building. The

limited menu includes the likes of lox and bagels, a breakfast burrito, black-bean

ENTRAL

hummus, smoked-salmon quesadillas, fresh juices, and espresso drinks. It looks

C

as though you could hardly squeeze in here, but there’s more seating across the

street. It’s definitely not your usual ghost-town lunch counter.

416 Main St. (at Hull Ave.). www.flatironcafejerome.com. 928/592-3625. Reservations not accepted. Most items $8.50–$13. MC, V. Wed–Mon 7am–3pm.

The Haunted Hamburger/Jerome Palace AMERICAN Perched precari-

ously high above Jerome’s main shopping street, this restaurant seems poised to

come crashing down into the Verde Valley far below. Although you can get steaks,

fajitas, barbecued ribs, and other dishes here, it would be a mistake not to order

the namesake haunted hamburger, which is made with mushrooms, bacon,

cheese, green chilies, grilled onion, and guacamole. While this burger is memo-

rable, it’s the view from the restaurant that will truly haunt you.

410 Clark St. 928/634-0554. http://thehauntedhamburger.com. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $5–$21. MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

200

Where to Stay

Connor Hotel of Jerome Housed in a renovated historic hotel, this lodging

has spacious rooms with large windows; views of the valley, however, are limited.

Although a few of the rooms are located directly above the hotel’s popular bar,

which can be quite noisy on weekends, most rooms are quiet enough to provide

a good night’s rest. Better yet, come on a weekday when the Harley-Davidson

poseur crowd from the Scottsdale area isn’t thundering through the streets on

their hogs.

164 Main St. (P.O. Box 1177), Jerome, AZ 86331. www.connorhotel.com. 800/523-3554 or 928/634-5006. Fax 928/649-0981. 12 units. $95–$175 double. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Ghost City Inn With its long verandas on both floors, this restored old house

is hard to miss as you drive into town from Clarkdale. It manages to capture the

spirit of Jerome, with a mix of Victorian and Southwestern decor. Most bedrooms

have great views across the Verde Valley (and these are definitely worth request-

ing). Two units feature antique brass beds. The rooms are on the small side, so if

space is a priority, opt for the suite.

541 Main St., Jerome, AZ 86331. www.ghostcityinn.com. 888/634-4678. 8 units. $105–$130

double; $125–$155 suite. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum on some weekends and holidays. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 fee). No children 13 or under. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

5

Mile High Inn In classic European tradition, this inn is upstairs from a restau-

CENTRAL

rant (the Mile High Grill) and is reached by a flight of stairs. Therein lies this inn’s greatest charm. Although half the rooms have shared bathrooms, all the rooms are

attractively decorated, some with antiques and some with more modern furnish-

A

ings. Although the rooms are not very large, a couple do have king-size beds.

RIZONA

309 Main St. (P.O. Box 1311), Jerome, AZ 86331. www.jeromemilehighinn.com. 414/634-5094. 7 units, 3 with private bathroom. $85–$105 double with shared bathroom; $120–$130

double with private bathroom. Rates include full breakfast (except Mon–Tues). 2-night minimum on holidays. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: A/C, no phone.

The V

THE VERDE VALLEY

er

Camp Verde: 20 miles E of Jerome; 30 miles S of Sedona; 95 miles N of Phoenix

de V

Named by early Spanish explorers, the Verde Valley has long been a magnet for

alley

both wildlife and people. Today, the valley is one of Arizona’s richest agricultural and ranching regions. The valley is also popular with retirees, and housing subdivisions now sprawl across much of the landscape. Cottonwood and Clarkdale,

the valley’s two largest towns, are old copper-smelting towns, while Camp Verde

was an army post back in the days of the Indian Wars. All three towns have some

interesting historic buildings, but it is the valley’s two national monuments—

Tuzigoot and Montezuma Castle—that are the main attractions.

These monuments preserve the ruins of Sinagua villages that date from long

before the first European explorers entered the Verde Valley. By the time the first

pioneers began settling in this region, the Sinaguas had long since moved on, and

Apaches had claimed the valley as part of their territory. When settlers came into

conflict with the Apaches, Fort Verde, now a state park, was established. Between

201

this state park and the two national

monuments, hundreds of years of

Verde Valley history and prehistory can

be explored. This valley is also the site

of the most scenic railroad excursion in

the state.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Camp Verde is just

off I-17 at the junction with Ariz.

260. The latter highway leads

northwest through the Verde Val- Verde Canyon Railroad.

ley for 12 miles to Cottonwood.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Cottonwood Chamber of Commerce,

1010 S. Main St., Cottonwood ( 928/634-7593; www.cottonwood

chamberaz.org).

FESTIVALS Avid birders may want to plan their visit to coincide with the annual

Verde Valley Birding and Nature Festival ( 928/282-2202; www.

birdyverde.org), which is held the last weekend in April.

Exploring the Verde Valley

5 In addition to the Verde Valley attractions listed here, you’ll also find the Cliff Castle Casino, 555 Middle Verde Rd. ( 800/381-7568 or 928/567-7900;

www.cliffcastlecasino.net), which is located on the edge of Camp Verde at exit

alley

289 off I-17.

Dead Horse Ranch State Park NATURAL ATTRACTION You’ll find this

de V

state park on the outskirts of Cottonwood, not far from Tuzigoot National Monu-

er

ment. Set on the banks of the Verde River, the park offers picnicking, fishing,

swimming, hiking, mountain biking, and camping. Trails wind through the ripar-

The V ian forests along the banks of the river and visit marshes that offer good bird-watching; they also lead into the adjacent national forest, so you can get in many

miles of scenic hiking and mountain biking. The ranch was named in the 1940s,

when the children of a family looking to buy a ranch told their parents they

RIZONA

wanted to buy the place with the dead horse by the side of the road. Adjacent to

A

the state park is the Verde River Greenway State Natural Area, which stretches

for 6 miles along the banks of the river.

For a guided horseback ride in the park, contact Trail Horse Adventures

ENTRAL

( 866/958-7245 or 928/634-5276; www.trailhorseadventures.com). A 1-hour

C

ride will cost you $64 and a 3-hour lunch ride costs $125.

675 Dead Horse Ranch Rd., Cottonwood. www.azstateparks.com. 928/634-5283. Admission $7 per car. Visitor center daily 8am–5pm. Closed Christmas. From Main St. on the east side of Cottonwood, drive north on N. 10th St.

Fort Verde State Historic Park HISTORIC SITE Just south of Monte-

zuma Castle and Montezuma Well, in the town of Camp Verde, you’ll find Fort

Verde State Historic Park. Established in 1871, Fort Verde was the third military

post in the Verde Valley and was occupied until 1891. The military had first come

to the Verde Valley in 1865 at the request of settlers who wanted protection from

the local Tonto Apache and Yavapai. The tribes, traditionally hunters and

202

gatherers, had been forced to raid farms for food after their normal economy was

disrupted by the sudden influx of settlers into the area. Between 1873 and 1875,

most of the Indians in the area were rounded up and forced to live on various

reservations. An uprising in 1882 led to the last clash between local tribes and

Fort Verde’s soldiers.

The state park, which covers 10 acres, preserves three officers’ quarters, an

administration building, and some ruins. The buildings that have been fully

restored house exhibits on the history of the fort and what life was like here in the 19th century. With their gables, white picket fences, and shake-shingle roofs, the

buildings of Fort Verde suggest that life at this remote post was not so bad, at

least for officers. Costumed military reenactments are held here throughout

much of the year; call for details.

125 E. Hollaman St., Camp Verde. www.azstateparks.com. 928/567-3275. Admission $4

adults, $2 children 7–13, free for children 6 and under. Thurs–Mon 9am–5pm. Closed Christmas.

Montezuma Castle National Monument

RUINS Despite the

name, the ruins within this monument are neither castle nor Aztec dwelling (as

the reference to Aztec ruler Montezuma implies). This Sinagua ruin is, however,

one of the best-preserved cliff dwellings in Arizona. The site consists of two

impressive stone pueblos that were, for some unknown reason, abandoned by the

Sinagua people in the early 14th century.

The more intriguing of the two ruins is set in a shallow cave 100 feet up a cliff

overlooking Beaver Creek. Construction on this five-story, 20-room village began 5

sometime in the early 12th century. Because Montezuma Castle has been protected

from the elements by the overhanging roof of the cave in which it was built, the

CENTRAL

original adobe mud that was used to plaster over the stone walls of the dwelling is

still intact. Another structure, containing 45 rooms on a total of six levels, stands at the base of the cliff. This latter dwelling, which has been subjected to rains and

A

floods over the years, is not nearly as well preserved as the cliff dwelling. In the visi-RIZONA

tor center, you’ll see artifacts that have been unearthed from the two ruins.

The V

erde V

alley

Montezuma Castle National Monument.

203

Montezuma Well, located 11 miles north of Montezuma Castle (although

still part of the national monument), is a spring-fed sinkhole that was, for the

Native peoples of this desert, a genuine oasis. This sunken pond was formed

when a cavern in the area’s porous limestone bedrock collapsed. Underground

springs quickly filled the sinkhole, which today contains a pond measuring more

than 360 feet across and 55 feet deep. Over the centuries, the presence of year-

round water attracted first the Hohokam and later the Sinagua peoples, who

built irrigation canals to use the water for growing crops. Some of these chan-

nels can still be seen. Sinagua structures and an excavated Hohokam pit house

built around 1100 are clustered in and near the sinkhole. To reach Montezuma

Well, take exit 293 off I-17.

Exit 289 off I-17. www.nps.gov/moca. 928/567-3322. Admission $5 adults ($8 with Tuzigoot National Monument admission), free for children 15 and under; no charge to visit Montezuma Well. Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day weekend daily 8am–6pm; rest of year daily 8am–

5pm. Closed Christmas.

Out of Africa Wildlife Park ZOO Lions and tigers and bears, oh my.

And zebras and giraffes and wildebeests, oh yes. That’s what you’ll encounter at

this sprawling wildlife park between Camp Verde and Cottonwood. The park

includes both a “wildlife preserve” of large fenced predator enclosures and an

“African Bush Safari” area. In this latter area, you ride on a rugged safari vehicle 5 through a vast enclosure populated by giraffes, zebras, ostriches, wildebeests,

and other African animals. You may even get to feed a giraffe or zebra. The other

half of the park is home to numerous lions, tigers, wolves, panthers, hyenas, and

other large predators. All these carnivores are fed on Sunday, Wednesday, and

Friday at 3pm, and following the feeders is one of the highlights of a visit to the

alley

park. One of the park’s most popular attractions, especially with kids, is the

de V

Tiger Splash, in which big cats and their caretakers demonstrate predator-prey

er

interactions in a large pool.

3505 Camp Verde Bridgeport Hwy., Camp Verde. www.outofafricapark.com. 928/567-2840

The V or 928/567-2842. Admission $36 adults, $34 seniors, $20 children ages 3–12, free for children 2

and under. Daily 9:30am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Tuzigoot National Monument RUINS Perched atop a hill overlooking the

Verde River, this small, stone-walled pueblo was built by the Sinagua people and

RIZONA

was inhabited between 1125 and 1400. The Sinagua, whose name is Spanish for

A

“without water,” were traditionally dry-land farmers relying entirely on rainfall to water their crops. When the Hohokam, who had been living in the Verde Valley

since a.d. 600, moved on to more fertile land around 1100, the Sinagua moved

ENTRAL

into this valley. Their buildings progressed from individual homes called pit

C

houses to the type of communal pueblo seen here at Tuzigoot.

An interpretive trail leads through the Tuzigoot ruins, explaining different

aspects of Sinaguan life, and inside the visitor center is a small museum display-

ing many of the artifacts unearthed here. Desert plants, many of which were

used by the Sinagua, are identified along the trail.

Just outside Clarkdale off Ariz. 89A. www.nps.gov/tuzi. 928/634-5564. Admission $5 adults ($8 with Montezuma Castle National Monument admission), free for children 15 and under.

Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day weekend daily 8am–6pm; rest of year daily 8am–5pm.

Closed Christmas.

204

Verde Canyon Railroad

TOUR When the town of Jerome was busily

mining copper, a railway was built to link the booming town with the territorial

capital at nearby Prescott. Because of the rugged mountains between Jerome and

Prescott, the railroad was forced to take a longer but less difficult route north

along the Verde River before turning south toward Prescott. Today, you can ride

these same tracks aboard the Verde Canyon Railroad. The route traverses both

the remains of a copper smelter and unspoiled desert that is inaccessible by car

and is part of Prescott National Forest. The views of the rocky canyon walls and

green waters of the Verde River are quite dramatic, and if you look closely, you’ll

see ancient Sinagua cliff dwellings. In late winter and early spring, nesting bald

eagles can also be spotted. Although the Grand Canyon Railway travels to a more

impressive destination, this is a more scenic excursion.

300 N. Broadway, Clarkdale. www.verdecanyonrr.com. 800/582-7245. Tickets $55 adults, $50

seniors, $35 children 2–12; 1st-class tickets $80. Call or visit the website for schedule and reservations.

Outdoor Activities

If it’s a hot day, you may want to head up to Sycamore Creek to cool off in one of the creek’s swimming holes. It’s only a 1⁄4-mile hike to the first swimming hole, but there are more farther up the creek. To reach the trailhead for this hike, follow signs to Tuzigoot National Monument, and after crossing the bridge over the

Verde River, turn left onto Forest Road (F.R.) 131 (signed for the Sycamore Can-

5

yon Wilderness). The road quickly turns to gravel and then dirt and is very rough

in places. Don’t try driving this road without a high-clearance vehicle and prefer-

C

ably one with four-wheel-drive. The trailhead is 11 miles up this road.

ENTRAL

Wine Touring

Cottonwood, 6 miles from Jerome, isn’t nearly as atmospheric as the old copper-

ARIZONA

mining town up on the hill, but in the Old Town district, you’ll find quite a few

interesting shops, galleries, and cafes. As in Jerome, there are a couple of winery

tasting rooms here where you sample local wines. At the Pillsbury Wine Com-

pany, 1012 N. Main St. ( 928/639-0646; www.pillsburywine.com), you can choose from among more than a dozen wines. Wines here are produced by sev-The V

eral area wineries, which makes this one of the best places in the region to get an

idea of the breadth of wines being produced in Arizona. For $10 to $16, you can

er

taste five wines (additional tastes are $2 each). The tasting room is open Sunday

de V

through Thursday from 11am to 6pm and Friday and Saturday from 11am to

8pm. Across the street, you’ll find Arizona Stronghold Winery, 1023 N. Main

alley

St. ( 928/639-2789; www.azstronghold.com), a joint operation of Page Spring

Cellars’ Eric Glomski and Caduceus Cellars’ Maynard Keenan. The tasting room

is open Sunday through Thursday from noon to 7pm and Friday and Saturday

from noon to 9pm. The tasting fee is $9.

About halfway between Camp Verde and Cottonwood, you’ll find Alcan-

tara Vineyards, 3445 S. Grapevine Way, Verde Valley ( 888/569-0756 or 928/649-8463; www.alcantaravineyard.com), which, although away from the

area’s other wineries (which are in the community of Page Springs), is far and

away the most beautiful winery in Arizona. The terraced vineyards overlook

limestone cliffs and a bend of the Verde River. The wines, primarily big reds, can

205

be quite good. The tasting room is

open daily from 11am to 5pm, and the

tasting fee is $10.

Where to Eat

If you need some espresso to get you

through the rest of the day, the best

place in the area to get it is at Crema

Coffee & Creamery, 917 N. Main

St., Cottonwood ( 928/649-5785;

www.cremacoffeeandcreamery.com).

Crema also serves sandwiches, soup,

pastries, and gelato and is open Mon-

day through Friday from 7am to 4pm

and Saturday and Sunday from 8am to

4pm. If you’re planning a picnic and

need some artisan bread for your sand-

wiches, stop by the Orion Bread Co.,

1028 N. Main St. ( 928/649-1557;

www.orionbread.com). This bakery is Alcantara Vineyards uses its own grapes to

open Monday and Tuesday from 9am produce excellent wines.

5 to 5pm, Sunday and Wednesday

through Friday from 7am to 5pm, and Saturday from 7am to 3pm. If happen to

be in Cottonwood at night and feel like having a beer, check out Rendezvous in

Old Town (RIOT), 777 N. Main St. ( 928/634-3777; www.riotcottonwood.

alley

com), which is in a building that was once a gas station and car wash. RIOT has

the best selection of beer in Cottonwood.

de Ver Bing’s Burger Station AMERICAN In what was once a gas station on the

edge of old town Cottonwood, you can get some of the best burgers in the region.

The V This burger joint, with its wall of license plates from around the country, is a throwback to the burger stands of the 1950s. The menu is short and simple and

is on a pad of paper. Mark down what you want on your burger and what sides

and drink you want, and hand it over to the waiter. Be sure to try one of the foun-

tain sodas (peach, lime, root beer, and mulberry), that are made with syrups pro-

RIZONA

duced exclusively for Bing’s.

A

794 N. Main St., Cottonwood. www.bingsburgers.com. 928/649-1718. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4–$6. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 10:30am–7pm; Sun 10:30am–3pm.

ENTRAL

Blazin’ M Ranch Wild West Adventure AMERICAN Located adja-

C

cent to Dead Horse Ranch State Park, the Blazin’ M Ranch is classic Arizona-

style family entertainment—barbecue and beans accompanied by cowboy music

and comedy. Although this place is geared primarily toward the young ’uns, if

you’re young at heart, you might also enjoy the Blazin’ M. However, it’s definitely

more fun if you bring the whole family. Highlights include a reproduction of a

Yavapai Apache camp, a mining camp, mechanical steer roping, and a gallery of

animated woodcarvings, which feature humorous Western scenes.

1875 Mabery Ranch Rd. (off 10th St., signed for Dead Horse Ranch State Park), Cottonwood.

www.blazinm.com. 800/937-8643 or 928/634-0334. Reservations recommended. Dinner $35

adults, $33 seniors, $25 children ages 3–12. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sat gates open at 5pm, dinner at 6:30pm, show at 7:30pm. Closed Thurs–Fri in Dec.

206

Nic’s Italian Steak & Crab House ITALIAN With good food and reason-

able prices, it shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise that this restaurant in old town Cottonwood is so popular that Sedona residents sometimes make the

30-minute drive to eat here. For starters, you can get a mac-and-cheese made

with crab or toasted ravioli. The menu includes lots of classic pasta dishes, all of which can be had with a variety of additions (meatballs, shrimp, Italian sausages). As the restaurant name implies, there are also plenty of steaks. By the

way, this place is affiliated with both the Haunted Hamburger in Jerome (see

p. 200) and the Tavern Hotel across the street.

925 N. Main St., Cottonwood. www.nicsaz.com. 928/634-9626. Reservations accepted for parties of 8 or more. Main courses $12–$36. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

Old Town Café LIGHT FARE The Old Town Cafe, a bright, cheery little

place with a handful of tables is my favorite Verde Valley lunch spot. There are

good salads and sandwiches, including a tasty grilled panini of smoked turkey,

spinach, tomatoes, and mozzarella. If you arrive early enough in the day, you just

might get your hands on one of the cafe’s wonderful almond croissants, which are

among the best I’ve ever had. However, they tend to sell out quickly.

1025-A N. Main St., Cottonwood. www.oldtownroaster.com/cafe.html. 928/634-5980.

Reservations not accepted. Salads and sandwiches $6–$9.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 8am–3pm.

Where to Stay

5

The Tavern Hotel A boutique hotel with contemporary styling may

C

seem like an anomaly in a small historic town, but that’s just what you’ll find at

ENTRAL

this little hotel in historic old town Cottonwood. Located in what was once a

grocery store, the Tavern Hotel is affiliated with the Tavern Grille, which just

across a parking lot from the hotel, and hotel check in actually takes place at the

A

restaurant’s bar, where you’ll be offered a welcome cocktail while you check in.

RIZONA

Guest rooms, which are by far the most attractive and comfortable in the Verde

Valley, have hardwood floors, slate walls and granite counters in the bathrooms,

plush beds, and contemporary furnishings. While old town Cottonwood is not as

photogenic as Jerome, this hotel is a much more comfortable choice than the

options up the hill in Jerome.

Sedona & Oak Cr

904 N. Main St., Cottonwood, AZ 86326. http://thetavernhotel.com. 928/639-1669. 10 units $149–$169 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, lounge. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

SEDONA & OAK CREEK

eek Canyon

CANYON

66 miles NE of Prescott; 116 miles N of Phoenix; 106 miles S of the Grand Canyon

Nowhere in Arizona, or the entire country for that matter, will you find a town or city in a more beautiful setting. On the outskirts of Sedona, red-rock buttes, mesas, pinnacles, spires, and vast canyon walls rise into cerulean skies. Off in the distance, the Mogollon Rim looms; its forests of juniper and ponderosa pine a dark backdrop for

Sedona’s red rocks. The wide band of rosy sandstone that is so dramatically exposed

in this area is at its photogenic best at sunset, when the red rocks, bathed in the

warm light of the setting sun, put on an unforgettable light show.

207

All this may sound perfectly idyllic, but if you lower your eyes from the red

rocks, you’ll see the flip side of Sedona—a sprawl of housing developments, high-

ways lined with unattractive strip malls, and bumper-to-bumper traffic. However,

not even this can mar the beauty of the backdrop.

With national forest surrounding the city, Sedona also has some of the best

outdoor access of any city in the Southwest. All around town, alongside highways

and down side streets in suburban neighborhoods, there are trailheads. Trek

down any one of these trails, and you leave the city behind and enter the world

of the red rocks.

Located at the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon, Sedona was first settled by

pioneers in 1877 and was named for the first postmaster’s wife. Word of Sedona’s

beauty (the town’s, not the wife’s) did not begin to spread until Hollywood film-

makers began using the region’s red rock as a backdrop in their Western films.

Next came artists, lured by the colorful landscapes and desert light (it was here

that the Cowboy Artists of America organization was formed). Although still

touted as an artists’ community, Sedona’s art scene these days is geared more

toward tourists than toward collectors of fine art.

More recently, the spectacular views and mild climate were discovered by

retirees. Until the crash of the real estate market, Sedona’s hills were alive with

the sound of construction as ostentatious retirement mansions and celebrity tro-

phy homes sprouted from the dust like desert toads after an August rainstorm.

5 Although the souring of the economy has slowed the building boom considerably,

Sedona is still the sort of town that believes, if you come, they will build it.

Sedona is also a magnet for New Age believers, who come to experience unseen

cosmic energy fields known as vortexes. Many New Age types have stayed in the

area and have turned Sedona into a hotbed of alternative therapies. Mountain

bikers have also discovered the red rock, and word has spread that the biking

here is almost as good as up north in Moab, Utah.

eek Canyon

The waters of Oak Creek were what first attracted settlers and Native peo-

ples to this area, and today this stream still lures visitors to Sedona—especially in Sedona & Oak Cr

RIZONA A

ENTRALC

Sedona’s red rocks create a unique landscape.

208

To Flagstaff/

Slide Rock State Park

Sedona & Vicinity

Steamboat Rock

89A

D

Coffee Pot Rock SEDONA CITY LIMITS

To Boynton Canyon

ry

S

& Enchantment Resort Capitol

C

o

Butte

r

ld

e

i

e

e

UPTOWN

k

rs

R

P

SEDONA

d

a

.

s

3

Oak Creek Canyon Rd.

Chimney

s

1

Rock

Rd

2

.

Schnebly Hil Rd.

89A

4

Snoopy Rock

. d

660

Cottonwood-Sedona Hwy.

R

89A

Airport

179

To Jerome

Sedona-

U

Oak Creek

Airport

pp

Airport

Mesa

e

Flagstaff

r R

Sedona

e

ARIZONA

d R

Phoenix

SEDONA CITY LIMITS

ock

Tucson

Loop Rd.

Chapel Rd.

Bell

5

Rock

Courthouse Butte

6

Village of Oak Creek

ak Creek

Cathedral Rock

O

179

RED ROCK

To /

17

0

1/2 mi

STATE PARK

Phoenix

7

0

1/2 km

Chapel of the Holy Cross 5

Sedona Chamber

Crescent Moon

of Commerce

Picnic Area 6

Visitor Center 2

Red Rock State Park 7

Sedona Heritage Museum 3

Sedona Arts Center 1

Tlaquepaque 4

summer when the cool shade and even cooler creek waters are a glorious respite

from the heat of the desert. Two of Arizona’s finest swimming holes are located

on Oak Creek only a few miles from Sedona, and one of these, Slide Rock, has

been made into a state park.

With its knock-your-hiking-boots-off scenery; dozens of motels, hotels, and

inns; and smattering of good restaurants, Sedona makes an excellent base for

exploring central Arizona. Several ancient Indian ruins (including an impressive

cliff dwelling), the “ghost town” of Jerome, wineries, and the scenic Verde Can-

yon Railroad are all within easy driving distance, and even the Grand Canyon is

but a long day trip away.

209

Essentials

GETTING THERE Sedona is on Ariz. 179 at the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon.

From Phoenix, take I-17 to Ariz. 179 N. From Flagstaff, head south on I-17

until you see the turnoff for Ariz. 89A and Sedona. Ariz. 89A also connects

Sedona with Prescott.

Sedona Phoenix Shuttle ( 928/282-2066 or 928/634-2827; www.

sedona-phoenix-shuttle.com) operates several trips daily between Phoenix’s

Sky Harbor Airport and Sedona. The fare is $50 one-way, $90 round-trip.

VISITOR INFORMATION The

Sedona Chamber of Commerce Visitor Cen-

ter/Uptown Gateway Visitor Center, 331 Forest Rd. ( 800/288-7336

or 928/282-7722; www.visitsedona.com), is at the corner of Ariz. 89A and

Forest Road in uptown Sedona. The visitor center is open Monday through

Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm, and Sunday and holidays from 9am to 3pm.

You can also get information, as well as a Red Rock Pass for parking at

area trailheads, at the Visitor Contact Center, 8375 Ariz. 179, Village of

Oak Creek ( 928/203-7500 or 928/203-2900), which is open daily from

8am to 5pm, or the North Gateway Visitor Center, Oak Creek Vista

Overlook, Ariz. 89A ( 928/203-2900), which is open March 1 through

November 1, weather permitting, daily from 9am to 4pm, and sometimes on

weekends in other months.

5 GETTING AROUND Whether traveling by car or on foot, you’ll need to cultivate

patience when trying to cross major roads in Sedona. Traffic here, especially

on weekends, can be some of the worst in the state. Also be prepared for

slow traffic on roads that have good views; drivers are often distracted by the

red rocks. You may hear or see references to the “Y,” which refers to the

intersection of Ariz. 179 and Ariz. 89A between the Tlaquepaque shopping

plaza and uptown Sedona. This intersection used to be Y-shaped, but it is

eek Canyon

now a traffic circle.

Rental cars are available through Enterprise ( 800/261-7331 or

928/282-2052). You can also rent a jeep from Barlow Jeep Rentals, 3009

W. Ariz. 89A ( 888/928-5337 or 928/282-8700; www.barlowjeeprentals.

com), which charges $175 for 4 hours and $275 for 24 hours.

SPECIAL EVENTS The

Sedona International Film Festival ( 928/282-

Sedona & Oak Cr

1177; www.sedonafilmfestival.com), held between mid- to late February,

always books plenty of interesting films. In mid-December at the

Tlaquepaque shopping plaza, Sedona celebrates the Festival of Lights

( 928/282-4838; www.tlaq.com) by lighting thousands of luminarias

(paper bags partially filled with sand and containing a single candle). From

RIZONA

mid-November to late December or early January, nearly a million lights

A

illuminate Los Abrigados Resort ( 877/444-8044 or 928/282-1777;

www.redrockfantasy.com) in a Red-Rock Fantasy.

ENTRAL

Exploring Sedona

C

The Grand Canyon may be Arizona’s biggest attraction, but there’s actually far

more to do in Sedona. If you aren’t an active type, there’s the obvious option of

just sitting down and gazing in awe at the rugged cliffs, needle-like pinnacles, and isolated buttes that rise from the green forest floor at the mouth of Oak Creek

Canyon. Want to see more but don’t want to break a sweat? Head out into the red

rocks on a jeep tour or soar over them in a biplane. Want to go mano a mano with 210

this wild landscape? Go for a hike, rent a mountain bike, or go horseback riding.

(See “Organized Tours” and “Outdoor Activities,” later in this section, for details.) ALONG ARIZ. 179 SOUTH OF TOWN

Although Schnebly Hill Road, which climbs into the red rocks east of Sedona, is a rough dirt road, it’s a must for superb views. This road is best driven in a high-clearance vehicle. To reach this scenic road, head south out of Sedona on Ariz.

179, turn left after you cross the bridge over Oak Creek (at the Tlaquepaque

shopping center), and head up the road, which starts out paved but soon turns to

dirt. As this road climbs to the top of the Mogollon Rim, each switchback and

cliff-edged curve yields a new and more astonishing view. At the top, the Schne-

bly Hill overlook offers a view that just begs to be savored over a long picnic. If

you don’t feel comfortable doing this drive on your own, you can book a jeep tour.

Sedona’s most notable architectural landmark is the Chapel of the Holy

Cross , 780 Chapel Rd. ( 928/282-4069; www.chapeloftheholycross.com), a small church built right into the red rock on the south side of town. If you’re

driving up from Phoenix, you can’t miss it—the chapel sits high above the road

just off Ariz. 179. With its contemporary styling, it is one of the most architecturally important modern churches in the country. Marguerite Brunswig Staude, a

devout Catholic painter, sculptor, and designer, had the inspiration for the chapel

in 1932, but it wasn’t until 1957 that her dream was finally realized. The chapel’s

design is dominated by a simple cross forming the wall that faces the street. The

cross and the starkly beautiful chapel seem to grow directly from the rock, allow-

5

ing the natural beauty of the red rock to speak for itself. It’s open Monday through C

Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday from 10am to 5pm; admission is free.

ENTRAL

A few miles south of the Chapel of the Holy Cross, on the east side of Ariz.

179, you’ll see the aptly named Bell Rock. There’s a parking area at the foot of this formation, and trails lead up to the top. Adjacent to Bell Rock is Court-A

house Butte, and to the west stands Cathedral Rock. From the Chapel of the RIZONA

Sedona & Oak Cr

eek Canyon

Chapel of the Holy Cross.

211

vortex POWER

For many years now, Sedona has been one of the world’s centers for the New Age

movement, and large numbers of people make the pilgrimage here to experience the

“power vortexes” of the surrounding red-rock country. Around town you’ll see bulletin boards and publications advertising such diverse services as past-life regressions, crystal healing, tarot readings, reiki, axiatonal therapy, electromagnetic field balancing, soul recovery, channeling, aromatherapy, myofascial release, and aura photos and videos.

According to believers, a vortex is a

site, which means it has a balance of

site where the earth’s unseen lines of

both masculine and feminine energy.

power intersect to form a particularly

Vortex tours are offered by several

powerful energy field. Scientists may

companies, including Earth Wisdom

scoff, but Sedona’s vortexes have

Jeep Tours ( 928/282-4714; www.

become so well known that the visitor

earthwisdomtours.com), Spirit Steps

centers have several handouts to explain

( 866/508-0094 or 928/282-4562;

them and a map to guide you to them.

www.spiritsteps.org), and Sedona Vortex

(Many of the most spectacular geological

Tours ( 800/943-3266 or 928/282-

features of the Sedona landscape also

2733; www.sedonaretreats.com). All

happen to be vortexes.)

three offer tours that combine aspects of

The four main vortexes are Bell Rock,

Native American and New Age beliefs.

Cathedral Rock, Airport Mesa, and Boyn-

Tours last 21⁄

5

2 to 3 hours and cost around

ton Canyon. Bell Rock and Airport

$68 to $129 per person.

Mesa are both said to contain masculine

You can also stock up on books,

or electric energy that boosts emotional,

crystals, and other spiritual supplies at

spiritual, and physical energy. Cathedral

stores such as Crystal Magic, 2978 W.

Rock is said to contain feminine or mag-

Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-1622), or Center

netic energy, good for facilitating relax-

for the New Age, 341 Ariz. 179

eek Canyon

ation. The Boynton Canyon vortex is

( 888/881-6651 or 928/282-2085;

considered an electromagnetic energy

www.sedonanewagecenter.com).

Holy Cross on Chapel Road, you can see Eagle Head Rock (from the front

Sedona & Oak Cr door of the chapel, look three-quarters of the way up the mountain to see the eagle’s head), the Twin Nuns (two pinnacles standing side by side), and Mother and Child Rock (to the left of the Twin Nuns).

South of Sedona, near the junction of I-17 and Ariz. 179, you can visit one

of the premier petroglyph sites in Arizona. The rock art at the V Bar V Heritage

RIZONA

Site ( 928/203-2900; www.redrockcountry.org) covers a small cliff face and A

includes images of herons and turtles. To get here, take the dirt road that leads

east for 22⁄3 miles from the junction of I-17 and Ariz. 179 to the Beaver Creek

Campground. The entrance to the petroglyph site is just past the campground.

ENTRAL

From the parking area, it’s about a half-mile walk to the petroglyphs, which are

C

open Friday through Monday from 9:30am to 3pm. To visit this site, you’ll need

a Red Rock Pass or another valid pass.

UPTOWN SEDONA

The Sedona Arts Center, 15 Art Barn Rd. ( 888/954-4442 or 928/282-

3809; www.sedonaartscenter.com), near the north end of uptown Sedona on

Ariz. 89A, has a gallery that specializes in works by local and regional artists.

212

To learn a bit about the local history, stop by the Sedona Heritage Museum,

735 Jordan Rd. ( 928/282-7038; www.sedonamuseum.org), in Jordan Historical

Park. The museum, which is housed in a historic home, is furnished with antiques

and contains exhibits on the many movies that have been filmed in the area. The

farm was once an apple orchard, and there’s still apple-processing equipment in the

barn. Hours are daily from 11am to 3pm; admission is $5.

WEST SEDONA

If you head west out of Sedona on Ariz. 89A and turn left onto Airport Road,

you’ll drive up onto Airport Mesa, which commands an unobstructed panorama

of Sedona and the red rocks. About halfway up the mesa is a small parking area

from which easy trails radiate, and at the top of the mesa is a huge parking area

and viewpoint park that attracts large crowds of sunset gazers. The views from

here are among the best in the region.

As you drive west through west Sedona, look north from Ariz. 89A, and

you’ll see Coffee Pot Rock, also known as Rooster Rock, rising 1,800 feet above Sedona. Three pinnacles, known as the Three Golden Chiefs by the Yavapai

tribe, stand beside Coffee Pot Rock. As you drive up Dry Creek Road, on your

right you’ll see Capitol Butte, which resembles the U.S. Capitol.

Boynton Canyon, located 8 miles west of the junction of Ariz. 179 and

Ariz. 89A, is a narrow red-rock box canyon and is one of the most beautiful spots

in the Sedona area. This canyon is also the site of the deluxe Enchantment

Resort, but hundreds of years before there were luxury suites here, there were 5

Sinagua cliff dwellings. Several of these cliff dwellings can still be spotted high

C

on the canyon walls. Boynton Canyon Trail leads 3 miles up into this canyon

ENTRAL

from a trailhead parking area just outside the gates of Enchantment. To get to the

trailhead, drive west out of Sedona on Ariz. 89A, turn right on Dry Creek Road,

take a left at the first T intersection, and a right at the second T.

A

To the west of Boynton Canyon, you can visit the well-preserved Sinagua

RIZONA

cliff dwellings at Palatki Heritage Site ( 928/282-3854; www.redrock country.org). These small ruins, tucked under the red cliffs, are the best place in

the area to get a feel for the ancient Native American cultures that once lived in

Sedona & Oak Cr

eek Canyon

Cliff dwellings in Boynton Canyon.

213

this region. Among the ruins, you’ll see

numerous pictographs (paintings) cre-

ated by the past residents of Palatki.

Before heading out to these ruins, be

sure you make a reservation by calling

the number above. To reach the ruins,

follow the directions to Boynton Can-

yon, but instead of turning right at the

second T intersection, turn left onto

Boynton Pass Road (F.R. 152C), which

is one of the most scenic roads in the

area. This road is paved for the first

couple of miles but then becomes a

sometimes rough dirt road. Follow this

road to another T intersection and go

right onto F.R. 525, then veer right

onto F.R. 795, which dead-ends at the

ruins. You can also get here by driving

west from Sedona on Ariz. 89A to F.R. Crescent Moon Picnic Area.

5 THE high cost OF RED-ROCK VIEWS

With the land around Sedona split up into several types of National Forest Service

day-use sites, state parks, and national monuments, visitors find themselves pulling out their wallets just about every time they turn around to look at another rock. Here’s the lowdown on what it’s going to cost you to do the red rocks right.

eek Canyon

A

Red Rock Pass will allow you to

you buy a combination pass that lets you

visit Palatki Ruins and the V Bar V petro-

visit both national monuments.

glyph site and park at any national forest

If two or more of you are traveling

trailhead parking areas. The cost is $5 for

together and you plan on visiting the

a 1-day pass, $15 for a 7-day pass, and

Grand Canyon and three or four other

$20 for a 12-month pass (this annual pass

national parks or monuments, consider

Sedona & Oak Cr is not a good value, and I don’t recom- getting an America the Beautiful Pass mend it). Passes are good for everyone in

($80). This pass is good for a year and

your vehicle. However, be aware that

will get you into any national park or

these passes are not valid at Grasshop-

national monument in the country. If

per Point (a swimming hole), Call of the

you’re 62 or older, definitely get an

RIZONA A

Canyon (the West Fork Oak Creek trail-

America the Beautiful Senior Pass

head), or Crescent Moon (Sedona’s top

($10), which is good for the rest of your

photo-op site), all of which charge $8 to

life. Persons with disabilities can get a

$9 admission per vehicle.

free lifetime America the Beautiful

ENTRALC

Two state parks are in the area—Slide

Access Pass. Any of these three passes

Rock ($10–$20 per car) and Red Rock

can be used in lieu of a Red Rock Pass.

($10 per car). Admission to the Mont-

For more information on the Red Rock

ezuma Castle or Tuzigoot national monu-

passes, visit www.redrockcountry.org.

ments will cost you $5 per adult or $8 if

214

525, a gravel road leading north to F.R. 795. To visit Palatki, you’ll need a Red

Rock Pass (see “The High Cost of Red-Rock Views,” above); the ruins are usually

open daily from 9:30am to 3pm and reservations are recommended due to lim-

ited parking spaces. The dirt roads around here become impassable to regular

cars when they’re wet, so don’t try coming out here if the roads are at all muddy.

South of Ariz. 89A and a bit west of the turnoff for Boynton Canyon is Upper

Red Rock Loop Road, which leads to Crescent Moon Picnic Site

, a national

forest recreation area that has become a must-see for visitors to Sedona. Its popularity stems from a beautiful photograph of Oak Creek with Cathedral Rock in the background—an image that has been reproduced countless times in Sedona promo-tional literature and on postcards. Hiking trails lead up to Cathedral Rock. Admis-

sion is $9 per vehicle. For more information, contact the Coconino National Forest’s Red Rock District, 8375 Ariz. 179, Village of Oak Creek ( 928/203-2900;

www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino).

If you continue on Red Rock Loop Road, you will come to Red Rock State

Park, 4050 Red Rock Loop Rd. ( 928/282-6907; www.azstateparks.com), which flanks Oak Creek. The views here take in many of the rocks listed above,

and you have the bonus of being right on the creek (though swimming and wad-

ing are prohibited). Park admission is $10 per car. The park offers lots of guided

walks and interpretive programs.

OAK CREEK CANYON

The Mogollon Rim (pronounced Mug-ee-un by the locals) is a 2,000-foot escarp-5

ment cutting diagonally across central Arizona and on into New Mexico. At the top

C

of the Mogollon Rim are the ponderosa pine forests of the high mountains, while at

ENTRAL

the bottom the lowland deserts begin. Of the many canyons cutting down from the

rim, Oak Creek Canyon is the most beautiful (and one of the few that has a paved

road down through it). Ariz. 89A runs through the canyon from just outside Flagstaff A

to Sedona, winding its way down from

RIZONA

the rim and paralleling Oak Creek.

Along the way are overlooks, parks, pic-

nic areas, campgrounds, and a variety of

lodges and inns.

Approaching Oak Creek Canyon

Sedona & Oak Cr

from the north, your first stop after trav-

eling south from Flagstaff will be the

Oak Creek Canyon Vista, which pro-

vides a view far down the valley to

Sedona and beyond. The overlook is at

the edge of the Mogollon Rim, and the

eek Canyon

road suddenly drops in tight switch-

backs just south of here. You may notice

that one rim of the canyon is lower than

the other. This is because Oak Creek

Canyon is on a geologic fault line; one

side of the canyon is moving in a differ-

ent direction from the other.

Although the top of the Mogollon

Rim is a ponderosa pine forest and the

bottom a desert, Oak Creek Canyon Swimmers cool off at Slide Rock State Park.

215

supports a forest of sycamores and other deciduous trees. There is no better

time to drive scenic Ariz. 89A than between late September and mid-October,

when the canyon is ablaze with red and yellow leaves.

In the desert, swimming holes are powerful magnets during the hot summer

months, and consequently, Slide Rock State Park, 6871 N. Ariz. 89A

( 928/282-3034; www.azstateparks.com), 7 miles north of Sedona on the site

of an old homestead, is the most popular spot in Oak Creek Canyon during the

summer. What pulls in the crowds of families and teenagers is the park’s natural

water slide and great little swimming hole. On hot days, the park is jammed with

people splashing in the water and sliding over the algae-covered sandstone bot-

tom of Oak Creek. Open daily, year-round; admission is $10 per vehicle ($20

during the summer). There’s another popular swimming area at Grasshopper

Point, several miles closer to Sedona. Admission is $8 per vehicle.

Within Oak Creek Canyon, several hikes of different lengths are possible. By

far the most spectacular and popular is the 6-mile round-trip up the West Fork

of Oak Creek . This is a classic canyon-country hike with steep canyon walls rising from the creek. At some points, the canyon is no more than 20 feet wide,

with walls rising up more than 200 feet. You can also extend the hike many more

miles up the canyon for an overnight backpacking trip. The trailhead for the West

Fork of Oak Creek hike is 91⁄2 miles up Oak Creek Canyon from Sedona at the

Call of the Canyon Recreation Area, which charges a $9 day-use fee per vehicle.

5

Stop by the Sedona Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center for a free map

of area hikes. The Coconino National Forest’s Red Rock District, 8375

Ariz. 179 ( 928/203-2900; www.redrockcountry.org), just south of the Vil-

lage of Oak Creek, is an even better source of hiking information. It’s open daily

from 8am to 5pm.

If you get thirsty while driving through the canyon, hold out for Indian

Gardens Oak Creek Market, 3951 N. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-7702; http://

eek Canyon

oakcreekmarket.com), about 4 miles north of Sedona. Here, in the fall, you can

usually buy delicious organic apple juice made from apples grown in the canyon.

For one last view down the canyon, stop at Midgely Bridge (watch for the

parked cars and small parking area at the north end of the bridge).

Spas

Sedona & Oak Cr While Sedona isn’t yet a resort spa destination on par with Phoenix or Tucson, it does have an ever-growing number of spas that can add just the right bit

Sunset at the Amitabha Stupa

RIZONA A

There’s just something about Sedona

winds through juniper trees festooned

that brings out people’s spirituality, and

with prayer flags. The stupa is often

one of the latest spiritual attractions to

visited by devout Buddhists, who leave

ENTRAL

find a home among the red rocks is the

offerings at the base of the stupa, but

C

Amitabha Stupa Park ( 866/788-

the public is welcome anytime from

7229; www.stupas.org), a Tibetan Bud-

dawn to dusk. To find the stupa, drive

dhist shrine erected in a residential

north from Ariz. 89A on Andante Drive

neighborhood in west Sedona. The

and turn left on Pueblo Drive. Park out-

36-foot-tall stupa is up a short path that

side the gate on the right.

216

of pampering to your vacation. For personal attention, try the little Red Rock

Healing Arts Center, Creekside Plaza, 251 Ariz. 179 ( 888/316-9033; www.

redrockhealing.com), which is just up the hill from the Tlaquepaque shopping

plaza and offers a variety of massages, wraps, scrubs, and facials. A 60-minute mas-

sage or other body treatment is only $80 to $90. In west Sedona, try Sedona’s

New Day Spa, 1449 W. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-7502; www.sedonanewdayspa.

com), a beautiful day spa with a resortlike feeling. A 1-hour treatment will run you between $125 and $130. In the Village of Oak Creek, there’s the eforea spa at

Hilton, 90 Ridge Trail Dr. ( 928/284-6900; www.hiltonsedonaspa.com), offering a variety of treatments. There are also exercise and yoga classes, a pool, and

tennis courts. Most 50-minute treatments cost $125.

Wine Touring

It may be a bit premature to start calling Sedona the next Napa Valley, but there are a few wineries in the area. Three of them, located in the community of Page

Springs about 20 minutes west of Sedona, are open to the public for tastings. To

reach these wineries, drive west from Sedona on Ariz. 89A, and turn south on Page

Springs Road. You’ll first come to Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery, 1565 N.

Page Springs Rd. ( 928/649-2681; www.javelinaleapwinery.com), where wine-

maker and owner Rod Snapp focuses on premium red wines. The winery produces

wines made from both estate-grown grapes and grapes from other Arizona vine-

yards. The tasting room is open daily from 11am to 5pm. The tasting fee is $8 to

$19. Right next door is Oak Creek Vineyards and Winery, 1555 N. Page Springs 5

Rd. ( 928/649-0290; www.oakcreekvineyards.net), which is across the street

C

from the Page Springs Fish Hatchery. The tasting room here is open daily from

ENTRAL

10am to 6pm, and the tasting fee is $5. Page Springs Cellars, 1500 N. Page

Springs Rd. ( 928/639-3004; www.pagespringscellars.com), is the most impressive and reliable of the three wineries. Rhone varietals are the specialty of Page

A

Spring’s winemaker/owner Eric Glomski, who is one of the state’s top winemakers.

RIZONA

The tasting room is open Sunday through Thursday from 11am to 6pm and Friday

and Saturday from 11am to 9pm. There is a $10 tasting fee.

If you’d prefer to do your wine tasting with a guide, contact Sedona Wine

Country Tours ( 928/554-4072; www.sedonawinecountrytours.com), which

offers a variety of tours in the area and charges $98 to $150 per person.

Sedona & Oak Cr

Organized Tours

For an overview of Sedona, take a tour

on the Sedona Trolley, 276 N. Ariz.

89A ( 928/282-4211; www.sedona

trolley.com), which leaves several times

eek Canyon

daily on two separate tours. One tour

visits the Tlaquepaque shopping plaza,

the Chapel of the Holy Cross, and sev-

eral art galleries, while the other goes

out through west Sedona to Boynton

Canyon. Tours are $12 for adults ($22

for both tours) and $6 for children 12

and under ($11 for both tours).

The red-rock country surrounding Pink Jeep Tours take you four-wheeling

Sedona is the city’s greatest natural through Sedona’s red rocks.

217

attraction, and there’s no better way to explore it than by four-wheel-drive vehi-

cle. Although you may end up feeling like every other tourist in town, you quite

simply should not leave Sedona without going on a jeep tour. These tours will get

you out onto rugged roads and 4×4 trails with spectacular views. The unchal-

lenged leader in Sedona jeep tours is Pink Jeep Tours, 204 N. Ariz. 89A

( 800/873-3662 or 928/282-5000; www.pinkjeep.com), which has been

heading deep into the Coconino National Forest since 1958. It offers tours rang-

ing in length from 11⁄2 to 11 hours; however, the 2-hour Broken Arrow tour ($79

adults, $59 children 12 and under) is the most adventurous and is the tour I

recommend. Pink Jeep Tours also offers tours to Grand Canyon National Park.

If a jeep just isn’t manly enough for you, how about a Hummer? Better yet,

how about a Hummer that runs on enviro-friendly bio-diesel (have your quiche

and eat it, too)? Sedona Offroad Adventures, 273 N. Ariz. 89A, Ste. C ( 928/

282-6656; www.sedonaoffroadadventures.com), will take you out in the red

rocks in the ultimate off-road vehicle. One-hour tours run $39 to $49 ($29 for

children), and while there are 11⁄2- and 2-hour tours, the 21⁄2-hour Jeep Eater Tour for $94 ($74 for children) is the most fun.

Looking for a chance to play cowboy? A Day in the West, 252 N. Ariz.

89A ( 800/973-3662 or 928/282-4320; www.adayinthewest.com), offers both

jeep tours and horseback rides. There are cowboy cookouts, too. Prices range

from $45 to $169.

5

Just because it’s too dark to see the red rocks doesn’t mean there’s nothing

to see and do in Sedona at night. How does a tour of the heavens sound? Eve-

ning Sky Tours ( 928/853-9778; www.eveningskytours.com) takes advan-

tage of the dark night skies over Sedona to lead people on astronomy tours of the

stars and planets. Tours cost $60 for adults and $35 for children.

As spectacular as Sedona is from the ground, it is even more so from the air.

Red Rock Helicopter Tours offers short flights to different parts of this colorful eek Canyon

region. A 15-minute flight costs $80 per

person and a 25-minute flight is $129.

However, my favorite Sedona air tours

are those offered by the affiliated Red

Rock Biplane Tours, which operates

modern Waco open-cockpit biplanes.

Sedona & Oak Cr With the wind in your hair, you’ll feel as

though you’ve entered the world of

Snoopy and the Red Baron. Tours lasting

20 to 60 minutes are offered; a 20-min-

ute tour costs $119 per person with a

RIZONA

two-person minimum. Both of these

A

companies can be reached at Sedona

Air Tours ( 888/866-7433 or 928/

204-5939; www.sedonaairtours.com).

ENTRAL

If something a bit slower is more

C

your speed, try drifting over the sculpted

red buttes of Sedona in a hot-air balloon.

Northern Light Balloon Expedi-

tions ( 800/230-6222 or 928/282-

2274; www.northernlightballoon.com)

charges $195 per person. Red Rock Hikers take a break on the red rocks outside of Sedona.

218

Balloon Adventures ( 800/258-3754; www.redrockballoons.com) also charges $195 per person, while the affiliated Sky High Balloon Adventures ( 800/551-7597; www.skyhighballoons.com), which floats over the Verde Valley, charges

$180 per person.

Outdoor Activities

Hiking is the most popular outdoor activity in the Sedona area, with dozens of

trails leading off into the red rocks. The only problem is that nearly everyone who

comes to Sedona wants to go hiking, so finding a little solitude along the trail can be difficult. Not surprisingly, the most convenient trailheads also have the most

crowded trails. If you want to ditch the crowds, pick a trailhead that is not on Ariz. 179 or Ariz. 89A. That means that if you stop at any of the trailheads in Oak

Creek Canyon or between the Village of Oak Creek and Sedona, you’ll likely

encounter lots of other people along the trail. You’ll enjoy your Sedona hikes more

if you start from a trail that begins down a side road. Among my personal favorites

are the trails that originate at the end of Jordan Road in uptown Sedona; the

Cathedral Rock Trail, which starts in a housing development between Sedona

and the Village of Oak Creek; and the trails off Boynton Pass Road. Note: Don’t forget to get your Red Rock Pass before heading out for a hike. See the box, “The

High Cost of Red-Rock Views” on p. 214 for details on how to obtain your pass.

This said, the most convenient place to get some red dust on your boots is

along the Bell Rock Pathway , which begins alongside Ariz. 179 just north of the Village of Oak Creek. This trail winds around the base of Bell Rock and accesses 5

many other trails that lead up onto the sloping sides of Bell Rock. Although this is C

one of the most popular hiking trails in the area and is always crowded, it is the

ENTRAL

single best introduction to hiking in Sedona’s beautiful red-rock country. It’s about 4

miles to go all the way around Bell Rock and the adjacent Courthouse Butte.

You’ll see fewer tourists if you head to the .75-mile Cathedral Rock Trail,

A

which is also located between the Village of Oak Creek and uptown Sedona. The

RIZONA

trail follows cairns (piles of rocks) up the slickrock slopes on the north side of

Cathedral Rock. To reach this trail, turn off Ariz. 179 at the sign for the Back o’

Beyond housing development and watch for the trailhead at the end of the paved

road. Be aware, however, that calling this route a trail is being very generous. In

places it is almost a hand-over-hand crawl across the rocks. However, even if you

Sedona & Oak Cr

stop when the going gets steep, you’ll get great views. For convenience and soli-

tude, you can’t beat the Mystic Trail, which begins at an unmarked roadside

pull-off on Chapel Road halfway between Ariz. 179 and the Chapel of the Holy

Cross. This is an easy out-and-back trail that runs between a couple of housing

developments, but once you’re on the trail, you’ll feel all alone.

Among the most popular trails in the Sedona area are those that lead into

eek Canyon

Boynton Canyon (site of Enchantment Resort). Here you’ll glimpse ancient

Native American ruins built into the red-rock cliffs. Although the scenery is

indeed stupendous, the great numbers of other hikers on the trail detract consid-

erably from the experience, and the parking lot usually fills up early in the day. The 1.5-mile Vultee Arch Trail, which leads to an impressive sandstone arch, is another great hike. The turnoff for this hike’s trailhead is 2 miles up Dry Creek

Road and then another 31⁄2 miles on a very rough dirt road. The Devil’s Bridge

Trail, which starts on the same dirt road, is a little easier to get to and leads to the largest natural sandstone arch in the area. This one is a 1.8-mile round-trip hike.

219

For the hands-down best views in Sedona, hike all or part of the Airport

Mesa Trail, a 3.5-mile loop that circles Airport Mesa. With virtually no elevation gain, this is an easy hike. You’ll find the trailhead about halfway to the top of Airport Mesa on Airport Road. Try this one as early in the day as possible; by

midday, the parking lot is usually full and it stays that way right through sunset.

For more information on hiking in Oak Creek Canyon (site of the famous

West Fork Oak Creek Trail), see “Oak Creek Canyon,” earlier in this section. For

more information on all these hikes, contact the Coconino National Forest’s

Red Rock District, 8375 Ariz. 179, Village of Oak Creek ( 928/203-2900;

www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino).

Sedona is rapidly becoming one of the Southwest’s meccas for mountain

biking. The red rock here is every bit as challenging and scenic as the famed

slickrock country of Moab, Utah, and much less crowded. Using Sedona as a

base, mountain bikers can ride year-round by heading up to Flagstaff in the heat

of summer. One of my favorite rides is around the base of Bell Rock. Starting at

the trailhead parking area just north of the Village of Oak Creek, you’ll find not

only the easy Bell Rock Path, but also numerous more-challenging trails.

Another great ride starts above uptown Sedona, where you can take the Jim

Thompson Trail to Midgely Bridge or the network of trails that head toward Sol-

dier Pass. The riding here is only moderately difficult and the views are superb. To reach these trails, take Jordan Road to a left onto Park Ridge Road, and follow this 5 road to where it ends at a trailhead parking area. You can rent bikes and pick up

some coffee from Sedona Bike & Bean, 6020 Ariz. 179, Village of Oak Creek ( 928/284-0210; www.bike-bean.com), across the street from the popular Bell Rock Pathway and its adjacent mountain-bike trails. Bikes go for $40 to $60 for a

full day. Any of these stores can sell you a good local trail map or Cosmic Ray’s Fat Tire Tales and Trails guidebook to the best rides in Arizona. If you’d prefer to have a guide take you out on a road-bike tour, contact Road Bike Sedona, 6101 Ariz.

eek Canyon

179 ( 928/202-1194; www.sedonamtbadventures.com).

If you’d rather saddle up a palomino than pedal a bicycle, you can book a

horseback ride through A Day in the West, 252 N. Ariz. 89A ( 800/973-

3662 or 928/282-4320; www.adayinthewest.com), which charges $79 for a 11⁄2-

hour ride along the Verde River.

Surprisingly, Sedona has not yet been ringed with golf courses. However,

Sedona & Oak Cr what few courses there are offer superb views to distract you from your game.

The Club at Seven Canyons, 755 Golf Club Way ( 928/203-2001; www.

sevencanyons.com), originally planned as an exclusive private club, is by far the

most beautiful golf course in Sedona. Greens fees in winter range from $90 to

$125. The Oakcreek Country Club, 690 Bell Rock Blvd. ( 888/284-1660

RIZONA

or 928/284-1660; www.oakcreekcountryclub.com), south of town off Ariz. 179,

A

has stunning views from the course. Greens fee is $99 ($79 after 1pm). The

Sedona Golf Resort

, 35 Ridge Trail Dr. ( 877/733-6630; www.sedona

golfresort.com), south of town on Ariz. 179, offers equally breathtaking views of

ENTRAL

the red rocks. Greens fees are $45 to $79, depending on when you play.

C

Where to Eat

SEDONA

Expensive

In addition to the restaurants listed here, Enchantment Resort, 525 Boynton

Canyon Rd. ( 928/282-2900; www.enchantmentresort.com), in the incredibly

220

Cocktails & More with a View

Because the main reason you’re in

of traffic noise here, the view of Snoopy

Sedona is to enjoy the views of those

Rock is hard to beat.

amazing red rocks, it would be a shame

When it’s time to watch the sunset

not to take every possible opportunity to

light show, I like to head to the bar at

sit back and ogle the scenery. So why not

uptown’s Open Range Grill & Tavern,

sip a drink while you stare? In the morn-

320 N. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-0002;

ing, I like to get coffee at the Pink Jeep

www.openrangesedona.com), which is

tour company’s Pink Java Cafe, 206 Ariz.

located in Sinagua Plaza. This place does

89A ( 928/282-0249; http://pinkjeep

decent margaritas. Because only a hand-

tours.com/pink-java-cafe), which has a

ful of tables in the bar have views, try to

little patio with an astonishing view.

arrive early. The view tables are tucked

Alternatively, you can get coffee and a

around behind the bar. If these tables are

pastry at Wildflower Bread Company, in

already taken, try the nearby Canyon

the Shops at Piñon Point, 101 N. Ariz.

Breeze, Sedona Center, 300 N. Ariz. 89A

89A ( 928/204-2223; www.wildflower

( 928/282-2112; www.canyon-breeze.

bread.com), which is in the shopping

com), where you can sit at the bar and

complex between uptown Sedona and

gaze out at the red rocks. There’s a big

the traffic circle at the junction of Ariz.

terrace, too.

179 and Ariz. 89A. Although there’s a bit

5

scenic Boynton Canyon, has two dining rooms, one formal and one casual. While

C

these restaurants are primarily patronized by guests of this exclusive resort, the

ENTRAL

restaurants are open to the public by reservation. Because a meal at either of these restaurants is as much about the view as the food, plan on having lunch or a sunset dinner to get the full experience. Also note that both restaurants have patios,

A

and if the weather is warm, you should request outdoor seating.

RIZONA

Dan’s Bistro

CONTINENTAL This little restaurant in west Sedona

is a hidden gem. The food is creative, tasty, and, for Sedona, reasonably priced.

Start with mussels meuniere, beef carpaccio, or mushroom caps stuffed with

sweet Italian sausage. Among the dozen entrees on the menu, the seafood Portu-

Sedona & Oak Cr

guesa, a sort of seafood stew, is delicious and packed with all sorts of fresh fish.

The boeuf bourguignon en croute is another outstanding dish. Some of the dinner menu items are also available at lunch, so you can save a bundle by having your

midday meal here. Note that Dan’s is a BYOB restaurant, so be sure to stop some-

place (perhaps a local winery) and get a bottle of wine to accompany your meal.

1650 W Ariz. 89A. www.dansbistro.com. 928/282-0744. Reservations recommended. Main eek Canyon

courses $8–$12 lunch, $15–$32 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10:30am–3pm and 5–8 or 9pm; Sun 5–8 or 9pm.

The Heartline Café

SOUTHWESTERN/INTERNATIONAL The

heart line, from Zuni mythology, is a symbol of health and longevity; it is also a

symbol for the healthful, creative food served here. To start, don’t miss the tea-

smoked chicken dumplings with spicy peanut sauce or warm red-cabbage salad.

The must-have entree here is the heavenly pecan-crusted local trout with mus-

tard-cream sauce. Those searching out variety in vegetarian choices will find it

here. The beautiful courtyard and traditionally elegant interior are both good

places to savor a meal. Breakfast, lunch, and gourmet takeout are available at the

221

adjacent Heartline Gourmet Express, which is a good place to pick up a picnic

lunch before heading out into the red rocks.

1600 and 1610 W. Ariz. 89A. www.heartlinecafe.com. 928/282-0785 (cafe) or 928/282-3365

(Gourmet Express). Reservations recommended. Cafe main courses $18–$32; Gourmet Express $7–$11. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Cafe daily 5–9:30pm. Gourmet Express daily 8am–3pm.

René at Tlaquepaque CONTINENTAL/AMERICAN Although a for-

mal dining experience and traditional French fare may seem out of place in a

town that celebrates its cowboy heritage, René’s makes fine dining seem as natu-

ral in Sedona as mesquite-grilled steak and cowboy beans. Located in

Tlaquepaque, the city’s upscale south-of-the-border-themed shopping center, this

restaurant is the best place in Sedona for a special meal. The house specialty is rack of lamb, though more adventurous diners may want to try the excellent tenderloin

of antelope with whiskey–juniper berry sauce. Finish with a flambéed dessert.

At Tlaquepaque, 336 Ariz. 179, Ste. 118. www.rene-sedona.com. 928/282-9225. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$22 lunch, $22–$44 dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs

11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–9pm.

Shugrue’s Hillside Grill NEW AMERICAN/CONTINENTAL Located

at the back of the Hillside Sedona shopping plaza, this is the most upscale out-

post in a small chain of popular Arizona restaurants. Although the prices are high

at dinner, if you come before the sun sets, you’ll be treated to unforgettable views 5 through the walls of glass. The extensive menu includes influences from around

the world. For a starter, try the blackened shrimp saganaki. There are plenty of good steak and fish entrees, too.

671 Ariz. 179. www.shugrueshillside.com. 928/282-5300. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $10–$14 lunch, $14–$38 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm and 5–9pm; Sun 9am–3pm and 5–9pm.

eek Canyon

Moderate

Barking Frog Grille SOUTHWESTERN This sprawling Southwestern

restaurant is under the same management as the Cowboy Club (see below) and is a

good bet for a casual family dinner. There’s plenty on the menu to keep everyone

happy, but be sure to start with the delicious guacamole (prepared tableside) or the cactus fries. Other standout dishes include caramelized sea scallops with citrus but-Sedona & Oak Cr ter and rotisserie chicken. Because this restaurant is away from the touristy parts of town, it is often easy to get a table on short notice during the busy spring season.

2620 W. Ariz. 89A. www.barkingfroggrille.com. 928/204-2000. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9–$30 lunch, $15–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

RIZONA A Café Elote MEXICAN Elote is a Mexican preparation of corn on the cob that is made with freshly roasted corn that is slathered with spicy mayonnaise and

sprinkled with white cotija cheese. Squirt on a little lime, and you have the ultimate ENTRAL

south-of-the-border street food. Here at this treat’s namesake restaurant, the elote C

is sliced from the cob and served as a sort of dip. This dish alone, maybe with a side of guacamole and a margarita, is reason enough to eat at this highly creative Mexican restaurant. For an entree, try the braised lamb in sweet-and-spicy ancho-chili

sauce. This is a casual and colorful spot, and feels a bit like a Mexican beach bar.

At King’s Ransom Sedona Hotel, 771 Ariz. 179. www.elotecafe.com. 928/203-0105. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $17–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–9pm.

222

Cowboy Club Grille & Spirits SOUTHWESTERN With its big booths,

huge steer horns over the bar, and cowboy gear adorning the walls, this restaurant

is Sedona’s quintessential New West steakhouse. Start out with fried cactus

strips with a prickly-pear sauce or perhaps some nachos with buffalo chili. The

buffalo tenderloin, served with brandied peppercorn cream sauce, may be the

most expensive item on the menu, but it’s worth the splurge. Frugal travelers can

opt for the buffalo cheeseburger. Service is friendly but can be slow during the

peak tourist season. The adjacent Silver Saddle Room is a more upscale spin on

the same concept, with similar menu prices. The kids should get a kick out of the

cowboy decor and. It was in this building in 1965 that the Cowboy Artists of

America organization was formed.

241 N. Ariz. 89A. www.cowboyclub.com. 928/282-4200. Reservations not accepted for Cowboy Club; recommended for Silver Saddle Room. Main courses $11–$37. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

Dahl & DiLuca ITALIAN A faux-Tuscan villa interior, complete with a bar

in a grotto, makes this the most romantic restaurant in Sedona, and the excellent

Italian food makes it that much more memorable. Be sure to start with calamari,

which is some of the best I’ve ever had. Pasta predominates here, and portions

are big. I like the gnocchi with mushrooms and truffle cream sauce. However, the

veal dishes here are also excellent, and there are plenty of good seafood, chicken,

and vegetarian dishes. The eggplant Parmesan and portobello alla griglia are real standouts. Keep in mind that during the high season (spring), this place stays 5

packed with tourists and service can, at times, be brusque.

2321 W. Ariz. 89A (in west Sedona diagonally across from the Safeway Plaza). www.dahl-diluca.

CENTRAL

com. 928/282-5219. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$33. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Daily 5–9pm.

Mesa Grill NEW AMERICAN In a gorgeous modern building with tall

A

walls of glass that look out over the Sedona airport runway, the Mesa Grill is a bit RIZONA

oddly located, but the ambience is far more sophisticated than the location

would suggest, and the views (if you get the right table) are some of the best in

town. Although the menu features such familiar fare as burgers and steaks, it also

ventures into far more creative territory with such dishes as penne pasta in a

Sedona & Oak Cr

vodka cream sauce and salmon with a pinot noir sauce. You could even make a

meal of the appetizers and tapas, including Peruvian-style ceviche, seafood fon-due, and crab cakes made with poblano peppers. Because of the red-rock views

and airport action, this place makes a good lunch or sunset dinner spot.

1185 Airport Rd. www.mesagrillsedona.com. 928/282-2400. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9.50–$17 lunch, $10–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7–11am and

11:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 7–11am and 11:30am–9:30pm.

eek Canyon

Oak Creek Bar & Grill AMERICAN If you find yourself lost in the maze of

shops at the Tlaquepaque shopping plaza, don’t despair of finding sustenance

before you find your way back to your car; just consult one of the shopping center

maps and head to this casual second-floor brewpub. The menu features such pub

standards as pizzas, barbecued ribs, and fish and chips, plus a few slightly more

creative dishes—all of which go well with the pub’s beers. If you feel like having

some fun, order the “Seven Dwarfs,” a sampler of all the beers they brew here.

In Tlaquepaque Arts Village, 336 Ariz. 179. www.oakcreekpub.com. 928/282-3300. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $10–$20 lunch, $12–$28 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–8:30pm.

223

Open Range Grill & Tavern SOUTHWESTERN In a town boasting some of

the most astonishing scenery in the country, it seems foolish not to dine with a view.

While restaurants with great views rarely offer food to match the scenery, Open

Range at least serves decent comfort food to go with the views. Sure the prices are a bit high, but the view out the wall of glass at the back of this restaurant is more than worth the premium charged for meals here. The menu offerings are fairly simple, but

well prepared and with the occasional unusual ingredient or two. Salads here are

some of the standout dishes and often incorporate organic and locally grown pro-

duce. Burgers, sandwiches, and steaks are menu mainstays. Keep an eye out for

dishes with a Southwestern spin, including a good green-chili macaroni and cheese.

In Sedona Center, 320 N. Ariz. 89A. www.openrangesedona.com. 928/282-0002. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $12–$27. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Inexpensive

Dining in Sedona tends to be expensive, so your best bets for economical meals are

sandwich shops or ethnic restaurants. For breakfast, locals swear by the Coffee Pot Restaurant, 2050 W. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-6626; www.coffeepot

sedona.com), although I personally am not a fan. You can decide for yourself. For

filling sandwiches, try Sedona Memories, 321 Jordan Rd. ( 928/282-0032), 1

block off Ariz. 89A in the uptown shopping area. Having a picnic? You can stock up

on exotic imported meats, cheeses, and other fun foods or get a gourmet sandwich

5 to go at west Sedona’s Euro-Deli, 3190 W. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-4798; www.

eurodelisedona.com). For picnic supplies, head to New Frontiers Natural Foods,

1420 W. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-6311; http://newfrontiersmarket.com). You can

also get organic and vegan fare at Chocolatree Organic Eatery, 1595 W. Ariz.

89A ( 928/282-2997; www.chocolatreecafe.com), which specializes in live

foods, including raw chocolate treats.

When you need good espresso, perhaps for that long drive to the Grand

eek Canyon

Canyon, you’ve got a few good options around town. I like to start my days in

Sedona at Pink Java Café, 206 N. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-0249; http://pink jeeptours.com/pink-java-cafe), which serves organic coffee and has a patio where

you can sit and gaze at the red rocks while you sip your latte. In west Sedona, stop by Heart of Sedona Coffee, at the Old Marketplace shopping center, 1370 W.

Ariz. 89A, Ste. 12 ( 928/282-5777).

Apizza Heaven ITALIAN Tucked away behind a west Sedona business

Sedona & Oak Cr fronting on the highway, this locals-favorite pizza place is a bit hard to find but is well worth searching out. With good thin-crust pizzas and a pretty little patio

seating area, Apizza Heaven is a great place to escape the tourist crowds. The

menu is long and includes lots of pastas, sandwiches, calzones, and more sub-

RIZONA

stantial entrees. There’s often live music on Saturday nights, and if you want to

A

save a bit of money, come early and make a meal of the weekday happy hour

specials in the bar. This place even serves gluten-free pizza and beer!

2675 W. Ariz. 89A. www.apizzaheavenaz.com. 928/282-0519. Reservations recommended.

ENTRAL

Main courses $9–$32. MC, V. Tues–Thurs 4–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

C

The Hideaway Restaurant ITALIAN Hidden at the back of a shopping

plaza near the traffic circle at the junction of Ariz. 179 and Ariz. 89A, this casual family restaurant is as popular with locals as it is with visitors. Basic pizzas, subs, sandwiches, salads, and pastas are the choices here. However, most people come

for the knockout views. From the shady porch, you can see the creek below and

224

the red rocks rising across the canyon. Lunch or an early sunset dinner is your

best bet. The antipasto salad is an absolute must. Keep an eye out for humming-

birds and great blue herons.

Country Sq., 251 Ariz. 179. http://sedonahideawayrestaurant.com. 928/282-4204. Reservations accepted only for parties of 10 or more. Main courses $6–$12 lunch, $10–$16 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Javelina Cantina MEXICAN Although Javelina Cantina is part of a chain of

Arizona restaurants, the formula works, and few diners leave disappointed. Sure,

the restaurant is touristy, but what it has going for it is good Mexican food, a lively atmosphere, decent views, and a convenient location in the Hillside shops. The

grilled fish tacos are tasty, as is the pork adobo sandwich. The salmon tostadas are also worth trying. There are also plenty of different margaritas and tequilas to

accompany your meal. Expect a wait.

At Hillside Sedona shopping plaza, 671 Ariz. 179. www.javelinacantina.com. 928/203-9514.

Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$18. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–8:30 or 9pm.

Picazzo’s Organic Italian Kitchen PIZZA For down-home pizza in an

upscale setting, nothing in Sedona can compare with this artistic pizza place. Throw in an attractive walled patio dining area and a view of Coffee Pot Rock, and you have one of the best values in town. You get a great setting, a great view, and great pizza, and best of all, by eating here you can avoid the crowds in uptown Sedona. There

are also good by-the-slice lunch specials and inexpensive appetizers during happy 5

hour. Try the pesto and goat cheese pizza with shrimp or scallops, or a spinach and

mushroom pizza with Alfredo sauce. Gluten-free pizzas are available, and, as much

CENTRAL

as possible, ingredients are organic and hormone and preservative free.

1855 W. Ariz. 89A. www.picazzos.com. 928/282-4140. Reservations not accepted. Pizzas $11–$17. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

A

Plaza Bonita MEXICAN Located in the same shopping center as the Basha’s

RIZONA

supermarket, this casual and colorful Mexican restaurant is a local favorite. Both

the food and the service are usually very reliable. I like the fried fish tacos, which are made with tartar sauce. Don’t miss the apple chimichanga dessert. Also, be

sure to have a designated driver; the margaritas here are some of the best in town.

Show your hotel room key, and you’ll get 10% off your meal.

Sedona & Oak Cr

164 Coffee Pot Dr., Ste. H. www.casabonitaaz.com. 928/282-2728. Main courses $3.25–$16.

AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

Thai Palace Uptown THAI Housed in a little stone cottage behind the

famous Cowboy Club restaurant, the Thai Palace is an outpost of a popular Cot-

tonwood restaurant that has been receiving accolades for years. The menu fea-

eek Canyon

tures all the usual Thai dishes, plus some interesting cocktails as well. Also, be

sure to save room for the coconut ice cream. In the warmer months, try to get a

seat on the patio, which is in a beautiful little enclosed garden. To find the res-

taurant turn onto Forest Road (beside the Sedona Chamber of Commerce Visitor

Information Center) and then take an immediate right. The prices here are bit

higher than you would expect at a Thai restaurant, but then all restaurants in

Sedona seem a bit overpriced.

260 Van Deren Rd. www.thaipalacesedona.com. 928/282-8424. Reservations recommen-

ded. Main courses $11–$12 lunch, $13–$21 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–9pm.

225

VILLAGE OF OAK CREEK

Moderate

Cucina Rústica MEDITERRANEAN/SOUTHWESTERN With its vari-

ous distinct dining rooms and numerous antique doors, this sister restaurant to

west Sedona’s Dahl & DiLuca (see above) feels like a luxurious villa. My favorite room in which to dine here is one with a central dome that is lit by what appear

to be thousands of stars, but for a genuine starlit dinner, you can ask for a seat on the patio. You can get some of the same delicious dishes served at Dahl & DiLuca but they also serve some of the best prawns I’ve ever had. They’re wrapped in

radicchio and prosciutto and then grilled.

7000 Ariz. 179, Village of Oak Creek. www.cucinarustica.com. 928/284-3010. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$34. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–9:30pm.

Inexpensive

Tara Thai Cuisine THAI Friends who have a house in Sedona love this res-

taurant, and if you like Thai food, I’m sure you will, too. Not only is the food

packed with all those great, exotic Thai flavors, but also, in this overpriced tourist town, the reasonable prices are a welcome relief. I like the pad Thai, and, if it’s

on the menu, be sure to try the mango and sticky rice for dessert. You’ll find Tara

Thai tucked into a shopping center near the north end of the Village of Oak

Creek. Unfortunately, service can be very slow at times.

5 34 Bell Rock Plaza, Village of Oak Creek. 928/284-9167. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$18. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm and 5–9pm; Sat 11am–9pm; Sun

noon–9pm.

Shopping

Ever since the Cowboy Artists of America organization was founded in Sedona

back in 1965 (at what is now the Cowboy Club restaurant), this town has had

eek Canyon

a reputation as an artists’ community. Today, with dozens of galleries around

town, it’s obvious that art is one of the driving forces behind the local econ-

omy. Most of Sedona’s galleries specialize in traditional Western, contempo-

rary Southwestern, and Native American art, and in some galleries, you’ll see

works by members of the Cowboy Artists of America. You’ll find the greatest

concentration of galleries and

Sedona & Oak Cr shops in the uptown area of Sedona

(along Ariz. 89A just north of the

traffic circle at the junction with

Ariz.179) and at Tlaquepaque.

With more than 40 stores and

RIZONA

restaurants, Tlaquepaque Arts &

A

Crafts Village, 336 Ariz. 179

( 928/282-4838; www.tlaq.

com), at the bridge over Oak Creek

ENTRAL

on the south side of Sedona, is

C

designed to resemble a Mexican vil-

lage. (It was named after a famous

arts-and-crafts neighborhood in the

suburbs of Guadalajara.) The maze

of narrow alleys and courtyards, with

its fountains, chapel, and bell tower, Tlaquepaque is modeled after a Mexican village.

226

is worth a visit even if you aren’t in a buying mood. Most of the shops here sell

high-end art, jewelry, women’s fashions, and unique gifts. I wish all shopping

centers were such fascinating places.

Unfortunately, many of Sedona’s shops now specialize in cheap Southwest-

ern gifts that have little to do with art, and weeding through the tackiness to find the real galleries can be difficult. One place to start is at Hozho, which is right on Ariz. 179 just before you cross the Oak Creek bridge in Sedona and has a

couple of Sedona’s better galleries.

Clear Creek Trading If you’re in the market for a bear-skin rug, a cow skull,

or some buffalo horns, then do not miss this shop in an old house at the north

end of the uptown shopping district. This shop has rooms full of oddities as well

as rooms full of kitschy tourist souvenirs. 435 N. Ariz. 89A. www.clearcreektrading.com.

928/204-5805.

Cowboy Corral If you want to dress like Wyatt Earp or Annie Oakley, this

shop can outfit you. Definitely not your standard urban cowboy shop, Cowboy

Corral goes for the vintage look. 219 N. Ariz. 89A. www.cowboycorral.com. 800/457-

2279 or 928/282-2040.

El Prado Located in the Hillside Sedona shopping center, this gallery features

the unusual stone furniture of artist R. C. Albin. These aren’t the sorts of things

you can pack in your suitcase for the flight home, but if you’ve got a new retire-

ment home here in Arizona, these pieces sure would look good in the garden. At

Hil side Sedona, 671 Ariz. 179. www.elpradogal eries.com. 928/282-7390.

5

Exposures International Gallery If you’ve got a big house and need some

C

big art, this is the place to shop for it. Exposures is the largest gallery in the state ENTRAL

and usually has lots of monument-size sculptures out front. My favorite artist

here is Texas sculptor Bill Worrell. 561 Ariz. 179. www.exposuresfineart.com. 877/278-7483 or 928/282-1125.

A

Garland’s Indian Jewelry

A great location in the shade of scenic

RIZONA

Oak Creek Canyon and a phenomenal collection of bracelets, concho belts, and

squash-blossom necklaces make this the best place in Arizona to shop for Indian

jewelry. There are also lots of kachinas for sale. At Indian Gardens, 5953 N. Ariz. 89A (4

miles north of Sedona). www.garlandsjewelry.com. 928/282-6632.

Sedona & Oak Cr

Garland’s Navajo Rugs

Garland’s isn’t just the premier Navajo rug

shop in Sedona; it has one of the largest selections of contemporary and antique

Navajo rugs in the country. It also carries Native American baskets and pottery,

Hopi kachina dolls, and Navajo sand paintings. 411 Ariz. 179. www.garlandsrugs.com.

928/282-4070.

George Kelly Fine Jewelers This is another great place to shop for beauti-

eek Canyon

ful jewelry. The designs are highly creative and incorporate a wide range of

stones, even the occasional meteorite. At Hyatt Shops at Piñon Pointe, 101 N. Ariz. 89A., Ste. 23. 928/282-8884.

The Hike House If you’ve come to Sedona for the great hiking in the area, be

sure to stop by the Hike House. This shop across Oak Creek from the

Tlaquepaque shopping center not only sells hiking gear and clothes, but also has

a cafe. An interactive computer trail finder can help you plan your day’s hike. 431

Ariz. 179. www.thehikehouse.com. 928/282-5820.

227

Hillside Sedona This shopping center just south of Tlaquepaque is dedi-

cated to art galleries and upscale retail shops, and also has a couple of good res-

taurants. The hillside location means there are some good views to be had while

you shop or eat. 671 Ariz. 179. www.hil sidesedona.net. 928/282-4500.

Hoel’s Indian Shop

Located 10 miles north of Sedona in a private resi-

dence in Oak Creek Canyon, this Native American arts-and-crafts gallery is one

of the finest in the region and sells pieces of the highest quality. It’s a good idea to call before coming out to make sure the store will be open. 9589 N. Ariz. 89A.

www.hoelsindianshop.com. 928/282-3925.

Hummingbird House Looking for an unusual gift to take home to some-

one? Tired of the crowds of tourists at Tlaquepaque and in uptown? Check out

this hidden gift shop in an attractively restored historic general store set behind

a picket fence. You’ll find the shop on a back street behind the Burger King that’s

at the junction of Ariz. 89A and Ariz. 179. 100 Brewer Rd. 928/282-0705.

Isadora Handweaving Gallery

This tiny shop in the Tlaquepaque

shopping plaza has been around for more than 20 years and is one of the top

fiber-arts galleries in the country. Gorgeous handmade women’s fashions fill the

racks, and there are also plenty of beautiful accessories to go with the hand-

woven silk jackets, felted scarves, and colorful shawls. At Tlaquepaque, 336 Ariz. 179, Ste. A120. 928/282-6232.

5 Lanning Gallery In business for more than 25 years, this gallery in the Hozho

shopping center across Oak Creek from Tlaquepaque carries both classic and

contemporary art, with an emphasis on colorful two-dimensional works. At Hozho

Center, 431 Ariz. 179. www.lanninggal ery.com. 928/282-6865.

Sedona Arts Center Members Gallery Located at the north end of

uptown Sedona, this shop is the best place in town to see the work of area art-

ists—everything from jewelry and fiber arts to photography and ceramics.

eek Canyon

Because it’s a nonprofit shop, you won’t pay any tax here. 15 Art Barn Rd. www.sedona artscenter.com. 928/282-3865.

Son Silver West/Robson Design For those who love everything South-

western, this shop is a treasure-trove of all kinds of interesting stuff, including

Native American and Hispanic art and crafts, antique santo (saint) carvings, antique rifles, imported pots, dried-chili ristras (garlands), and garden art. 1476

Sedona & Oak Cr Ariz. 179 (on the south side of town). www.sonsilverwest.com. 928/282-3580.

Victorian Cowgirl

This is not your usual urban cowgirl attire. No, this

is the sort of place you shop when you need an $800 Victorian lace-and-velvet

dress for an upcoming soiree. Shop owner Candace Walters has designed dresses

RIZONA

for Crystal Gayle, Diana Ross, Morgan Fairchild, and Jaclyn Smith, among oth-

A

ers. Oh, and there are less expensive outfits as well. 181 Ariz. 179. www.victorian

cowgirl.com. 877/232-3455 or 928/282-0778.

Entertainment & Nightlife

ENTRALC

If you’d like to catch some live classical music while you’re in town, check the

schedule of Chamber Music Sedona ( 928/204-2415; www.chamber

musicsedona.org).

For Arizona wine and microbrews with a view of the red rocks, stop by Tast-

ing Arizona, 320 N. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-1700; www.tastingaz.com), which is at the back of uptown’s Sinagua Plaza on the second floor. If you’re searching

228

for microbrewed beer and don’t need a view of the rocks, head to the Oak Creek

Brewing Co., 2050 Yavapai Dr. ( 928/204-1300; www.oakcreekbrew.com), north of Ariz. 89A off Coffee Pot Drive. There’s also the affiliated Oak Creek

Brewery and Grill, 336 Ariz. 179 ( 928/282-3300; www.oakcreekpub.com) in the Tlaquepaque shopping complex. For live music, check out Olde Sedona

Bar & Grille, 1405 W. Ariz. 89A ( 928/282-5670; www.oldesedona.com).

Down in the Village of Oak Creek, you can do a little dancing at the Full Moon

Saloon, 7000 N. Ariz. 179 ( 928/284-1872; www.thefullmoonsaloon.com), which is located in the Tequa Festival Marketplace shopping center and has live

music and karaoke several nights a week.

Where to Stay

Sedona is one of the most popular destinations in the Southwest, with dozens of

hotels and motels around town. However, accommodations here tend to be over-

priced for what you get. (Blame it on the incomparable views.) My advice is to

save money elsewhere on your trip and make Sedona the place where you splurge

on a room with a view.

SEDONA & OAK CREEK CANYON

Very Expensive

Enchantment Resort

Located at the mouth of Boynton Canyon,

this resort more than lives up to its name. The setting is breathtaking, and the

pueblo-style architecture blends in with the landscape. The individual casitas 5

can be booked as two-bedroom suites, one-bedroom suites, or single rooms, but

C

it’s worth reserving a suite just so you can enjoy the casita living rooms, which

ENTRAL

feature high-beamed ceilings and beehive fireplaces. All the rooms, however,

have patios with dramatic views. Both of the resort’s main restaurants have patio

seating areas, and lunch on the terrace should not be missed. Guests have access

A

to the facilities at Mii amo spa (see separate review, below). With its great setting RIZONA

Sedona & Oak Cr

eek Canyon

Enchantment Resort is nestled amidst Sedona’s red rocks.

229

amid the red rocks, suites, croquet court, swimming pool, and children’s pro-

grams, Enchantment is a great choice for families.

525 Boynton Canyon Rd., Sedona, AZ 86336. www.enchantmentresort.com. 800/826-4180

or 928/282-2900. Fax 928/282-9249. 218 units. $350–$450 double; $450–$550 junior suite; $750–

$950 1-bedroom suite; $1,125–$1,425 2-bedroom suite. Rates do not include $25 resort fee.

Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; putting green and 6-hole par-3 golf course; health club; 6 Jacuzzis; 7 pools; room service; full-service spa; 7 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/VCR/DVD, CD player, fridge (in some), hair dryer, Internet (included in resort fee), kitchen (in some), minibar.

L’Auberge de Sedona Set on the banks of Oak Creek and shaded by

towering sycamore trees, this luxurious boutique resort is a sort of French coun-

try retreat in the middle of the desert. L’Auberge’s cottages, which are surrounded

by lushly landscaped grounds and look like rustic log cabins from the outside,

have a classic styling worthy of a luxury French country inn (leather couches,

gorgeous beds, plush towels, wood-burning fireplaces). The hillside cottages are

among the largest and most luxurious accommodations in Sedona. Fabulous

views and outdoor showers are just two features of these cottages. The restau-

rant, which serves American cuisine with Mediterranean influences, has a glass-

walled dining room and a creekside terrace.

5 301 L’Auberge Lane, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.lauberge.com. 800/272-6777 or 928/282-

1661. Fax 928/282-2885. 88 units. $250–$375 double; $350–$1,025 cottage. Rates do not include 10% resort fee. Rates include continental breakfast and evening wine reception. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($35 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; executive-level rooms; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; small full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

eek Canyon

Mii amo, a destination spa at Enchantment

This full-service

destination spa inside the gates of the Enchantment Resort easily claims the

state’s best spa location. Designed to resemble a modern Native American–style

pueblo, the spa backs up to the red-rock cliffs of Boynton Canyon and is shaded

by cottonwood trees. Mii amo is well designed, with indoor and outdoor pools and

outdoor massage cabanas at the foot of the cliffs. Guest rooms, which open onto

Sedona & Oak Cr a courtyard, have a bold, contemporary styling (mixed with Native American art and artifacts) that makes them some of the finest accommodations in the state. All

units have private patios and gas fireplaces. Mii amo is a world unto itself in this hidden canyon, and no other spa in Arizona has a more Southwestern feel.

RIZONA

525 Boynton Canyon Rd., Sedona, AZ 86336. www.miiamo.com. 888/749-2137 or 928/203-

A

8500. Fax 928/203-8599. 16 units. 3-night packages: Mar–May and Sept–Oct $4,800–$6,700 double; June–Aug and Nov–Feb $4,500–$6,420 double. Rates include 3 meals per day, 2 daily spa treatments, and a variety of activities. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bikes; concierge; exercise room; 3 Jacuzzis; 2 pools (indoor and outdoor); room service; full-ENTRALC

service spa w/25 treatment areas and wide variety of body treatments. In room: A/C, TV/VCR/

DVD, CD player, hair dryer, Internet (included in resort fee), minibar, MP3 docking station.

Expensive

Amara Hotel, Restaurant & Spa

It’s hip, it’s convenient, and it’s got

drop-dead-gorgeous views of the red rocks rising above Oak Creek. What’s not to

love about this hidden gem of a boutique hotel hidden behind the shops of

230

uptown Sedona? The creekside setting shaded by grand old sycamores is as idyl-

lic as you’ll find in Sedona, and there’s even a swimming hole in the creek (as well as an infinity-edge pool). Hip and sophisticated, yet close to nature, Amara is one

of Sedona’s most tranquil getaways. From the outside, the hotel fits right in with

the red-rock surroundings, while inside, bold splashes of color contrast with art-

works from a local gallery. See a painting you like? You might be able to buy it.

Guest rooms all have balconies or patios and wonderful pillow-top beds. The

resort also has a small full-service spa.

100 Amara Lane, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.amararesort.com. 800/815-6152 or 928/282-

4828. Fax 928/282-4825. 100 units. $175–$315 double; from $255–$365 suite. Rates do not include $20 resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($75 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; steam room; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

Briar Patch Inn

If you’re searching for tranquillity or a romantic

retreat amid the cool shade of Oak Creek Canyon, this is the place. Located 3

miles north of Sedona on the banks of Oak Creek, this inn’s cottages are sur-

rounded by beautiful grounds where bird songs and the babbling creek set the

mood. There’s even a swimming hole right here. The cottages date from the

1940s but have been attractively updated. A Western/rustic-Mexican style pre-

dominates. Most units have fireplaces and kitchenettes. In summer, breakfast is

served on a creekside terrace. Despite a lack of red-rock views, the Briar Patch 5

offers a delightful combination of solitude and sophistication.

3190 N. Ariz. 89A, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.briarpatchinn.com. 888/809-3030 or 928/282-CENTRAL

2342. Fax 928/282-2399. 19 units. $219–$395 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club; spa services; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen or kitche-A

nette (in most).

RIZONA

El Portal Sedona

You just can’t help but fall in love with this amazing

inn. Owners Steve and Connie Segner have done everything right, and the over-

all experience here makes this one of the very best lodgings in the state. Located

adjacent to the Tlaquepaque shopping center and built of hand-formed adobe

Sedona & Oak Cr

blocks, El Portal is designed to resemble a 200-year-old hacienda. Arts and

Crafts–period antiques fill the inn, and each of the large guest rooms has its own

distinctive character, from Arts and Crafts to cowboy chic. Most rooms have

whirlpool tubs, and many rooms have private balconies with red-rock views. El

Portal is the most pet-friendly inn in the state and even has rooms with private

dog yards. Exquisite breakfasts are served at an additional cost, and guided hikes

and jeep tours can be arranged.

eek Canyon

95 Portal Lane, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.elportalsedona.com. 800/313-0017 or 928/203-9405. Fax 928/203-9401. 12 units. Early Feb to June, Sept–Nov, and late Dec $259–$399 double; Jan to early Feb, July–Aug, and early to mid-Dec $199–$329 double. Rates include afternoon hors d’oeuvres. 2-night minimum on weekends and holidays. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club and adjacent resort pools; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge Located 8 miles north of Sedona in the

heart of Oak Creek Canyon, this may be the hardest place in the area to book a

room. People have been coming here for so many years and like it so much that they

231

reserve a year in advance (however,

A Taxing Situation

cancellations do occur). What

makes the lodge so special? Maybe

You can save a little bit on your hotel bill by

it’s that you have to drive through

staying in the Village of Oak Creek rather

Oak Creek to get to your log cabin.

than in Sedona proper. Not only are there

Maybe it’s the beautiful gardens or

several budget hotels here, but the room

the relaxing atmosphere of an old-

tax is only 7.35% vs. as much as 13.35% in

time summer getaway. The well-

Sedona.

maintained cabins, most of which

have air-conditioning, are rustic but

comfortable; the larger ones have fireplaces. Meals include organic fruits and vege-

tables grown on the property, and there’s a yoga pavilion overlooking the creek.

P.O. Box 152, Sedona, AZ 86339. www.garlandslodge.com. 928/282-3343. 16 units. $255–

$305 double. Rates do not include 15% service charge. Rates include breakfast, afternoon tea, and dinner. 2-night minimum. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s room. MC, V. Closed mid-Nov to late Mar and Sun year-round. Amenities: Dining room; babysitting; concierge; spa services; tennis court; free Wi-Fi. In room: Hair dryer, no phone.

The Lodge at Sedona Set amid pine trees a block off Ariz. 89A in west

Sedona, this large inn is decorated in the Arts and Crafts/mission style, which

makes it one of the more distinctive inns in Sedona. The best rooms are those on

5 the ground floor. These tend to be large, and several are suites. Suites are only

slightly more expensive than deluxe rooms, which makes the suites the best

choices here. Second-floor rooms are more economical and tend to be fairly

small. However, if you want views, book one of these upstairs rooms or the Des-

ert Trail, Copper Canyon, or Whispering Winds suite. Breakfasts are five-course

affairs that can tide you over until dinner.

125 Kallof Place, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.lodgeatsedona.com. 800/619-4467 or 928/204-eek Canyon

1942. Fax 928/204-2128. 14 units. $189–$229 double; $269–$349 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($35 per night). Children 11 and over welcome. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa This stylish boutique hotel is one of the

most distinctive luxury hotels in Sedona, and although it is located right on busy

Ariz. 89A in west Sedona, I highly recommend it. Merging contemporary styling

Sedona & Oak Cr with North African details, the hotel manages to create an ambience that is very international in feel. Antique wrought-iron window grates from Tunisia decorate

hallways, and guest rooms have Moroccan-inspired tables. Bathrooms, with dual-

head rain-type showers, are a real highlight. If you can, try to get a room on the

third floor; these have vaulted ceilings that make the rooms seem larger. Just off

RIZONA

the lobby, there’s an enclosed courtyard with a splashing fountain, and up on the

A

roof, there’s a patio with the hotel’s best view. This is a good pick for couples in a romantic mood.

2250 W. Ariz. 89A, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.sedonarouge.com. 866/312-4111 or 928/203-

ENTRALC

4111. Fax 928/203-9094. 74 units. Jan–Feb $189–$299 double; Mar–May $209–$319 double; June–Aug $209–$309 double; Sept–Oct $229–$329 double; Nov–Dec $169–$309 double.

Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($100

deposit, $50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; 3 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, CD

player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

232

Moderate

Best Western Plus Inn of Sedona Located about midway between

uptown and west Sedona, this hotel has great views of the red rocks from its wide

terraces and outdoor pool. Unfortunately, although the guest rooms are comfort-

able enough, not all of them have views. However, the modern Southwestern

decor and the setting, surrounded by native landscaping and located beyond the

tourist mainstream, make this an appealing choice.

1200 W. Hwy. 89A, Sedona, AZ 86336. 800/292-6344 or 928/282-3072. Fax 928/282-7218.

www.innofsedona.com. 110 units. $123–$189 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 12

and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 fee). Amenities: Small outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Cedars Resort on Oak Creek Located right at the traffic circle at the junc-

tion of Ariz. 179 and Ariz. 89A and set atop a 100-foot cliff, this motel has fabu-

lous views across Oak Creek to the towering red rocks. Guest rooms are large and

comfortable, and creekside rooms have private balconies. However, for the best

views, ask for a “canyon” room. Alternatively, you can save some money by opting

for a room without a view and then hang out at the pool and hot tub, both of

which have great views of the red rocks. A long stairway leads down to the creek,

and the shops of uptown Sedona are just a short walk away.

20 W. Ariz. 89A (P.O. Box 292), Sedona, AZ 86339. www.sedonacedarsresort.com. 800/874-2072 or 928/282-7010. Fax 928/282-5372. 38 units. $99–$159 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 5

Concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

CENTRAL

Forest Houses Set at the upper end of Oak Creek Canyon and built

right on the banks of the creek, these rustic houses and apartments date back to

the 1940s. Built by a stone sculptor, they feature artistic touches that set them

A

apart from other cabins in the canyon. About half of the houses are built right on

RIZONA

the creek, and some seem to grow straight from the rocks in the streambed. Ter-

races let you fully enjoy the setting. One of my favorite units is the two-bedroom

Cloud House, with stone floors, peeled-log woodwork, and a loft. This property

is certainly not for everyone (no phones, no TVs, and you have to drive through

Sedona & Oak Cr

the creek to get here), but those who discover the Forest Houses often come

back year after year.

9275 N. Ariz. 89A, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.foresthousesresort.com. 928/282-2999. Fax 928/

282-0663. 17 units. $95–$145 double. 2- to 4-night minimum stay. Children 8 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 deposit). Closed Jan to mid-Mar. In room: Kitchen, no phone.

eek Canyon

Matterhorn Inn Located in the heart of the uptown shopping district, this

hotel is convenient to restaurants and shops, and all of the attractively furnished

guest rooms have excellent views of the red-rock canyon walls. Although the

Matterhorn is set above a row of shops fronting busy Ariz. 89A, if you lie in bed

and keep your eyes on the rocks, you’d never know there was so much going on

below you. This place is a great value for Sedona.

230 Apple Ave., Sedona, AZ 86336. www.matterhorninn.com. 800/372-8207 or 928/282-7176.

23 units. Mar–Nov $89–$169 double; Dec–Feb $79–$159 double. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Concierge; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

233

Orchards Inn of Sedona For picture-perfect, in-your-face views of the red

rocks, few Sedona hotels can compete with the Orchards. The red-rock views

from the hotel’s hillside setting above Oak Creek are simply spectacular. Best of

all, every room here has a view and glass patio doors to let you see plenty of the

scenery. Don’t be discouraged when you drive up to the front door; although the

Orchards, which is more hotel than inn, is located amid the uptown tourist

crowds, it seems miles away once you check into your room and gaze out at the

red rocks. Guest rooms have a fresh, contemporary look.

254 N. Ariz. 89A, Sedona, AZ 86336. www.orchardsinn.com. 800/341-6075 or 928/282-2405. Fax 928/282-5710. 69 units. $129–$249 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Rose Tree Inn This little inn, only a block from Sedona’s uptown shopping

district, is tucked amid pretty gardens (yes, there are lots of roses) on a quiet

street. The property consists of an eclectic cluster of renovated older buildings.

Each unit is furnished differently—one Victorian, one Southwestern, two with

gas fireplaces. Four guest rooms have kitchenettes, making these rooms good

choices for families or for longer stays.

376 Cedar St., Sedona, AZ 86336. www.rosetreeinn.com. 888/282-2065 or 928/282-2065. 5

5 units. $95–$149 double. Children 15 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen (in some), free Wi-Fi.

Sky Ranch Lodge This motel is located atop Airport Mesa and has the

most stupendous vista in town. From here you can see the entire red-rock coun-

try, with Sedona filling the valley below. Although the rooms are fairly standard

motel issue and are badly in need of updating, some have gas fireplaces and some

eek Canyon

have balconies. Only the nonview units fall into the inexpensive category, but

those great views are just steps away. With a pool and plenty of space for running

around, this place will keep the kids happy. You can even walk up the road to

watch planes and helicopters at the airport.

1105 Airport Rd. (P.O. Box 2579), Sedona, AZ 86339. www.skyranchlodge.com. 888/708-6400 or 928/282-6400. 94 units. $80–$180 double. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s Sedona & Oak Cr room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Lounge; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenettes (in some), free Wi-Fi.

VILLAGE OF OAK CREEK

Expensive

RIZONA

Adobe Village Graham Inn A garden full of bronze statues of children

A

greets you when you pull up to this luxurious inn in the Village of Oak Creek, 6

miles south of uptown Sedona. The inn lies almost at the foot of Bell Rock and

features a variety of themed accommodations. The villas, the Sundance room,

ENTRALC

and the Sedona suite are the most impressive rooms here. My favorite is the

Purple Lizard villa, which opts for a colorful Taos-style interior and an amazing

rustic canopy bed. The Wilderness villa resembles a luxurious log cabin. The

Lonesome Dove villa is a sort of upscale cowboy cabin with a fireplace, potbellied

stove, and round hot tub in a “barrel.” Can you say romantic? This inn also operates the Adobe Grand Villas in West Sedona.

234

150 Canyon Circle Dr., Sedona, AZ 86351. www.adobevillagegrahaminn.com. 800/228-1425

or 928/284-1425. 11 units. $143–$329 double; $327–$359 suite; $278–$409 villa. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon hors d’oeuvres. 2-night minimum weekends and holidays. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Concierge; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/VCR/DVD, hair dryer, kitchenette (in some), free Wi-Fi.

Canyon Villa

In the Village of Oak Creek, 6 miles south of Sedona, this

bed-and-breakfast offers luxurious accommodations and spectacular views of the

red rocks. All rooms but one have views, as do the pool area, living room, and dining room. Guest rooms are varied in style—Victorian, Santa Fe, country, rustic—but no

matter what the decor, the furnishings are impeccable. All rooms have balconies or

patios, and several have fireplaces. Breakfast is a lavish affair meant to be lingered over, and in the afternoon there’s an elaborate spread of appetizers.

40 Canyon Circle Dr., Sedona, AZ 86351. www.canyonvilla.com. 800/453-1166 or 928/284-1226. Fax 928/284-2114. 11 units. $239–$349 double (lower rates in off season). Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. No children 10 or under. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Hilton Sedona Resort & Spa

This resort boasts not only one of the

most breathtaking golf courses in the state, but also the best pool area north of

Phoenix. While golf is the driving force behind most stays here, anyone looking

for an active vacation will find plenty to keep them busy. Guest rooms are suites

5

of varying sizes, with fireplaces and balconies or patios. The resort’s restaurant

plays up its views of the golf course and red rocks. The only drawback here is

C

that, because it’s south of the Village of Oak Creek, the resort is a bit of a drive ENTRAL

(about 8 miles) to Sedona’s shops and restaurants.

90 Ridge Trail Dr., Sedona, AZ 86351. www.hiltonsedonaresort.com. 877/273-3762 or 928/

284-4040. Fax 928/284-6940. 219 units. $179–$459 double. Children 18 and under stay free in A

parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2

RIZONA

lounges; concierge; 18-hole golf course; exercise room and access to nearby health club; 5

Jacuzzis; 3 pools; room service; sauna; full-service spa; 3 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($12–$15 per day).

Las Posadas of Sedona Located across the highway from the Hilton

Sedona & Oak Cr

resort in the Village of Oak Creek, Las Posadas is a cross between an all-suites

boutique hotel and a bed-and-breakfast inn. All of the large suites have separate

entrances and kitchenettes, which makes staying here a bit like having your own

Sedona apartment. The difference is that here you’re served a gourmet breakfast

each morning. All the suites have gas fireplaces and a balcony or patio, and some

suites have outdoor whirlpool spas. Be sure to ask for a room with a view.

eek Canyon

26 Av. de Piedras, Sedona, AZ 86351. www.lasposadasofsedona.com. 888/284-5288 or

928/284-5288. Fax 928/284-4178. 23 units. $179–$389 double. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon appetizers. AE, DISC, MC, V. No children 11 or under. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Red Agave With a gorgeous view of Bell Rock and hiking trails that start

at the edge of the property, this is Sedona’s premier budget getaway for an active

vacation. Affiliated with the nearby Bike and Bean bike shop, Red Agave offers

discounts on bike rentals and easy access to miles of great mountain-biking trails.

235

Accommodations are in attractive studios with tile floors, kitchens, and comfort-

able beds. If you’re coming with your family, there are also A-frame cabins with

loft sleeping areas. The small pool, two hot tubs, fire pit, and big yard provide lots of options for relaxing.

120 Canyon Circle Dr., Sedona, AZ 86351. www.redagaveresort.com. 877/284-9237 or 928/

284-9327. Fax 928/284-0832. 14 units. $109–$139 double; $209–$239 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($60). Amenities: 2 Jacuzzis; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Sedona Village Lodge This little hotel in the Village of Oak Creek may be

set at the back of a big parking lot shared with a shopping plaza, but it is such a

great deal, that I just have to tell you about it. If all you’re looking for is an economical place to spend the night and don’t need a pool or hot tub, this place is

an almost unbelievable value. Now, don’t get me wrong, the Sedona Village

Lodge is nothing fancy, just clean and comfortable. That said, the suites have

kitchenettes, gas fireplaces, and red-rock views.

105 Bell Rock Plaza, Sedona, AZ 86351. www.sedonalodge.com. 800/890-0521 or 928/284-3626. Fax 928/284-3629. 15 units. $49–$59 double; $79–$89 suite. 2-night minimum holiday weekends and all weekends Mar–May and Sept–Oct. MC, V. Pets accepted. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchenette (some rooms), free Wi-Fi.

Wildflower Inn With the best Bell Rock views of any of the budget hotels in

5 the Village of Oak Creek, this casual place is a good bet for a budget Sedona

vacation. Not only do many of the rooms have views, but some have fireplaces

and others have double whirlpool tubs. There’s even a rooftop deck where you

can have your breakfast, or a picnic dinner, if you’re so inclined. Attractively

decorated guest rooms gives this place a bit more character than you’d expect

from a budget motel. The Bell Rock trailhead is just across the street.

6086 Ariz. 179, Sedona, AZ 86351. www.sedonawildflowerinn.com. 888/494-5335 or 928/

eek Canyon

284-3937. Fax 928/284-3314. 28 units. $80–$210 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

CAMPGROUNDS

Within Oak Creek Canyon along Ariz. 89A, there are five national forest camp-

grounds. Manzanita, 6 miles north of town, is both the largest and the most

Sedona & Oak Cr pleasant (and the only one open in winter; $18 per night). Other Oak Creek Canyon campgrounds include Cave Springs, 13 miles north of town ($18 per night), and Pine Flat, 12 miles north of town ($18 per night). The Beaver Creek

Campground, 3 miles east of I-17 on F.R. 618, which is an extension of Ariz. 179

(take exit 298 off I-17), is a pleasant spot near the V Bar V Heritage Site ($16 per RIZONA

night; open year-round). For more information on area campgrounds, contact the

A

Coconino National Forest’s Red Rock Ranger District, 8375 Ariz. 179

( 928/203-7500; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino), which is located south of the

Village of Oak Creek. Reservations can be made for Manzanita, Pine Flat, and

ENTRALC

Cave Springs campgrounds by contacting the National Recreation Reserva-

tion Service ( 877/444-6777 or 518/885-3639; www.recreation.gov).

236

6

THE GRAND

CANYON &

NORTHERN

ARIZONA

6 The Grand Canyon—the name is at once both apt and inad-

equate. How can words sum up the grandeur of 2 billion

years of the earth’s history sliced open by the power of a

single river? Once an impassable and forbidding barrier to

oduction

explorers and settlers, the Grand Canyon today is a magnet

Intr that each year attracts millions of visitors from all over the world. The pas-

tel layers of rock weaving through the canyon’s rugged ramparts, the

interplay of shadows and light, the wind in the pines, California condors

RIZONA A soaring overhead, the croaking of ravens on the rim—these are the sights

and sounds that never fail to transfix the hordes of visitors who gaze awe-

THERN

struck into the canyon’s seemingly infinite depths.

OR

& N

While the Grand Canyon is undeniably the most awe-inspiring natural attraction

anywhere in the state, northern Arizona contains other natural attractions that

are also worthwhile, and certainly less crowded. Only 60 miles south of the great

ANYON

yawning chasm stand the San Francisco Peaks, the tallest of which, Humphreys

C

Peak, rises to 12,643 feet. These peaks, sacred to the Hopi and Navajo, are

ancient volcanoes that today are popular with skiers, hikers, and mountain

RAND

bikers.

G

Volcanic eruptions 900 to 1,000 years ago helped turn the land east of the

HET

San Francisco Peaks into fertile farmland that allowed the Sinagua people to

thrive in this otherwise inhospitable environment. Within a few hundred years,

however, the Sinagua disappeared. Today the ruins of their ancient villages, scat-

tered across lonely, windswept plains, are all that remain of their culture.

Just as the region once attracted Native Americans, it also attracted pio-

neers, who settled on the south side of the San Francisco Peaks. Amid expansive

ponderosa pine forests now stands the city of Flagstaff, which at 7,000 feet in

elevation is one of the highest cities in the U.S. Flagstaff is home to Northern

Arizona University, whose students ensure that this is a lively, liberal town. Born

of the railroads and named for a flagpole, Flagstaff is now the main jumping-off

point for trips to the Grand Canyon. Because the city has preserved much of its

Western heritage in its restored downtown historic district, it’s well worth a visit.

While it’s the Grand Canyon that brings many people to northern Arizona,

most visitors spend only a day or so in Grand Canyon National Park, so you may

want to take a look at what else there is to do in this part of the state. If, on the other hand, you only want to visit the canyon, there are many different ways to

accomplish this goal. You can do so on your own or in a group; on foot or on a

mule; or from a raft, a train, or a helicopter. Regardless of what you decide, you’ll find that the Grand Canyon more than lives up to its name.

previous page: Each year the Grand Canyon attracts millions of visitors from around the world.

238

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 6

IN NORTHERN ARIZONA

THE

Exploring Grand Canyon National Park: If you do only one thing in the state

G

of Arizona, make it a visit to this unimaginably massive canyon. See p. 247.

RAND

Poking around the ruins at Wupatki National Monument (Flagstaff):

Within this national monument northeast of Flagstaff, you’ll find the ruins of

C

several 12th and 13th-century Sinagua pueblos. See p. 284.

ANYON

Exploring Vermilion Cliffs National Monument: This remote and little vis-

ited monument is a real gem. A trip here takes a bit of planning, because its

most spectacular landscapes can be visited only by permit. See p. 274.

& N

Spending time by the turquoise waters of Havasu Canyon: Deep in a side

canyon of the Grand Canyon, on the Havasupai Indian Reservation, bewitch-

OR

ing turquoise, mineral-rich waters cascade over several waterfalls and collect

THERN

in natural pools lined with travertine. This enchanting locale can only be

reached by foot, horse, or helicopter. See p. 297.

A

Getting your kicks on Route 66: All across northern Arizona there are rem-

RIZONA

nants of the famed Mother Road, which once ran from Chicago to L.A. In

downtown Flagstaff, Seligman, Kingman, and Oatman, you delve into the

history of the highway that was celebrated in song and symbolized the nation’s

post–World War II optimism. See p. 293.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

THE GRAND CANYON

SOUTH RIM

60 miles N of Williams; 80 miles NE of Flagstaff; 230 miles N of Phoenix; 340 miles N of Tucson Whether you merely stand on the rim gazing in awe, spend several days hiking

deep in the canyon, or ride the roller-coaster rapids of the Colorado River, a trip

to the Grand Canyon is an unforgettable experience. A mile deep, 277 miles

The Grand Canyon’s bright colors come from layers of sandstone, limestone, shale, and schist.

239

6 long, and up to 18 miles wide, the canyon is so large that it is absolutely over-

whelming in its grandeur, truly one of the great natural wonders of the world.

Clarence Dutton, a 19th-century geologist who published one of the earliest

studies of Grand Canyon geology, held the canyon in such reverence that he

named land formations for Solomon, Apollo, Venus, Thor, Zoroaster, Horus, Bud-

dha, Vishnu, Krishna, Shiva, and Confucius.

Something of this reverence infects nearly every first-time visitor. Nothing

in the slowly changing topography of the approach to the Grand Canyon prepares

you for what awaits. You hardly notice the elevation gain or the gradual change

from windswept sagebrush scrubland to juniper woodlands to ponderosa pine

forest. Suddenly, it’s there. No preliminaries, no warnings. Stark, quiet, a maze of cathedrals and castles sculpted by nature.

Layers of sandstone, limestone, shale, and schist give the canyon its colors,

The Grand Canyon South Rim and from dawn to dusk, the interplay of shadows and light creates an ever-changing palette of hues and textures. In this landscape layer cake of stone can be read

2 billion years of geologic history, though geologists believe it has taken only 17

million years for the erosive action of the Colorado River to carve the canyon.

The story of the Grand Canyon begins millions of years ago, when vast seas

RIZONA

covered this region. Sediments carried by seawater were deposited and, over mil-

A

lions of more years, those sediments were turned into limestone and sandstone.

According to the most widely accepted theory, the Colorado River began its work of

THERN

cutting through the plateau when the ancient seabed was thrust upward to form the

Kaibab Plateau. Today, 21 sedimentary layers, the oldest of which is more than a

OR

billion years old, can be seen in the canyon. Beneath all these layers, at the very bot-

& N

tom, is a stratum of rock so old that it has metamorphosed, under great pressure and heat, from soft shale to a much harder stone. Called Vishnu Schist, this layer is the oldest rock in the Grand Canyon, dating from 2 billion years ago.

ANYON

In the more recent past, the Grand Canyon has been home to several Native

C

American cultures, including the Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi), who are best

known for their cliff dwellings in the Four Corners region. About 150 years after

the Ancestral Puebloans and Coconino peoples abandoned the canyon in the

RAND

13th century, another tribe, the Cerbat, moved into the area. Today, the Hualapai

G

and Havasupai tribes, descendants of the Cerbat people, still live in and near the

HET

Grand Canyon on the south side of the Colorado River.

In 1540, Spanish explorer Garcia Lopez de Cárdenas became the first Euro-

pean to set eyes on the Grand Canyon, but it would be another 329 years before

the first expedition traveled through the entire canyon. John Wesley Powell, a

one-armed Civil War veteran, was deemed crazy when he set off to navigate the

Colorado River in wooden boats. His small band of men spent 98 days traveling

1,000 miles down the Green and Colorado rivers. So difficult was the endeavor

that when some of the expedition’s boats were wrecked by powerful rapids, part

of the group abandoned the journey and set out on foot, never to be seen again.

How wrong the early explorers were about this supposedly Godforsaken

landscape. Instead of being abandoned as a worthless wasteland, the Grand

Canyon has become one of the most-visited natural wonders on the planet, a

magnet for people from all over the world. By raft, by mule, on foot, and in heli-

copters and small planes—approximately four million people each year come to

gaze into this great chasm.

However, there have been those in the recent past who regarded the canyon

as mere wasted space, suitable only for filling with water. Upstream of the Grand

240

GLEN CANYON

The Grand Canyon

NATIONAL

89

RECREATION AREA

Lake

& Northern Arizona

UTAH

Powell

ARIZONA

Fredonia

1

389

VERMILION CLIFFS

Pipe Spring

Page

89A

NAT’L MONUMENT

National

Lees Ferry

Monument

Marble Canyon

89A

KAIBITO PLATEAU

Jacob Lake

E

98

K A I B A B

c

67

h

N A T ’ L

o

F O R E S T

Marble Canyon

Clif

GRAND CANYON-

KAIBAB PLATEAU

fs

PARASHANT

89

NAT’L MONUMENT

N A V A J O I N D I A N

GRAND CANYON

R E S E R V A T I O N

Colorado River Supai

NATIONAL PARK

2

160

NORTH

HAVASUPAI

RIM

INDIAN

Desert

RESERVATION

Tuba

HUALAPAI

View

SOUTH

City

INDIAN

Grand Canyon Village

RIM

RESERVATION

Tusayan

64

18

COCONINO PLATEAU

K A I B A B

10

N A T ’ L

Cameron

P

F O R E S T

Litt AI

180

NTED

l

D

89

e

E

S

C

ER

o

T

lora

To Grand Canyon West

9

d

& Peach Springs

180

o

3

Riv

66

64

SAN FRANCISCO

e

PEAKS

r

Seligman

11

8

Humphreys Peak

Ash

40

4

5

To Grand

Fork

Flagstaff

Canyon West

Williams

6

40

K A I B A B

Pulliam

N A T ’ L

Airport

F O R E S T

To Winslow

7

89

89A 17

0

15 mi

Sedona

Airport

To Prescott

To Phoenix

0

15 km

Ski Area

Arizona Snowbowl 5

Meteor Crater 7

Area of

Cameron Trading Post 10

Sunset Crater Volcano

detail

Coyote Buttes 1

National Monument 8

Flagstaff

Grand Canyon Railway 4

Walnut Canyon National

ARIZONA

Grand Falls 11

Monument 6

Phoenix

Havasu Canyon 2

Wupatki National

Tucson

Historic Route 66 3

Monument 9

241

6

The Grand Canyon South Rim

The Colorado River once carried large amounts of silt, giving it a pinkish color.

RIZONA A Canyon stands Glen Canyon Dam, which forms Lake Powell, while downstream

lies Lake Mead, created by Hoover Dam. The Grand Canyon might have suf-

fered the same fate, but luckily the forces for preservation prevailed. Today, the

THERN

Grand Canyon is the last major undammed stretch of the Colorado River.

OR

Named by early Spanish explorers for the pinkish color of its muddy waters,

the Colorado River once carried immense loads of silt. Because much of the

& N

Colorado’s silt load now gets deposited on the bottom of Lake Powell (behind

Glen Canyon Dam), the water in the Grand Canyon is much clearer (and colder)

than it once was. Today, only when rainstorms and snowmelt feed the side can-

ANYON

yons of the Grand Canyon does the river still flow murky and pink from heavy

C

loads of eroding sandstone.

While the waters of the Colorado are now usually clearer than before, the

RAND

same cannot be said for the air in the canyon. Yes, you’ll find smog here, smog

G

that has been blamed on both Las Vegas and Los Angeles to the west and a coal-

HET

fired power plant to the east, near Page.

Far more visible and frustrating is the traffic congestion at the South Rim

during the busy months from spring to fall. With more than four million people

visiting the park each year, traffic during the summer months has become almost

as bad at the South Rim as it is during rush hour in any major city, and finding a

parking space can be the biggest challenge of a visit to Grand Canyon National

Park. But don’t let these inconveniences dissuade you from visiting. Despite the

crowds, the Grand Canyon more than lives up to its name and is one of the most

memorable sights on earth.

Essentials

GETTING THERE

During the summer, if at all possible, travel to the park by some means other than

car. Alternatives include taking the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams, flying

into Grand Canyon Airport and then taking a taxi, taking the Arizona Shuttle

from Flagstaff, or coming to the park on a guided tour. There are plenty of scenic

242

overlooks, hiking trails, restaurants, and lodges in the Grand Canyon Village area,

6

and free shuttle buses operate along both Hermit Road and Desert View Drive.

BY CAR The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is 60 miles north of Williams and

THE

I-40 on Ariz. 64 and U.S. 180. Flagstaff, the nearest city of any size, is 80

G

miles away. From Flagstaff, it’s possible to take U.S. 180 directly to the

RAND

South Rim or U.S. 89 to Ariz. 64 and the east entrance to the park. This lat-

ter route is my preferred way of getting to the canyon since it sees slightly

C

less traffic. Be sure you have plenty of gasoline in your car before setting out

ANYON

for the canyon; there are few service stations in this remote part of the state,

and what gas stations there are charge exorbitant prices.

Long waits at the entrance gates, parking problems, and traffic conges-

& N

tion have long been the norm at the canyon during the popular summer

months, and even during the spring and fall there can be backups at the

OR

entrance gates and visitors can have a hard time finding a parking space. How-

THERN

ever, extra ticketing lanes and additional parking lots built in recent years have

somewhat alleviated the congestion at the south entrance to the park.

BY PLANE The Grand Canyon Airport is in Tusayan, 6 miles south of Grand

A

Canyon Village. However, there are no regularly scheduled commercial

RIZONA

flights into this airport other than day-tours from Las Vegas on Scenic Air-

lines ( 866/235-9422; www.scenic.com), Grand Canyon Airlines

( 866/235-9422 or 928/638-2359; www.grandcanyonairlines.com), and

Maverick Airlines ( 800/962-3869 or 702/405-4300; www.maverick

airlines.com). These tours last from 71⁄2 to 91⁄2 hours and cost between $254

The Grand Canyon South Rim

and $334. The closest airport with commercial service is in Flagstaff. From

there, you’ll need to arrange another mode of transportation the rest of the

way to the national park (see “Flagstaff,” later in this chapter, for details).

BY TRAIN The

Grand Canyon Railway operates excursion trains between

Williams and the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. See “Williams,” later in

this chapter, for details.

For long-distance connections, Amtrak ( 800/872-7245; www.

amtrak.com) provides service to Flagstaff and Williams. From Flagstaff, it’s

then possible to take a bus directly to Grand Canyon Village. From Williams,

you can take the Grand Canyon Railway excursion train to Grand Canyon

Village. Note: The Amtrak stop in Williams is undeveloped and is on the outskirts of town. If you plan to

take an Amtrak train to Williams,

a shuttle from the Grand Canyon

Railway Hotel will pick you up

where the Amtrak train drops you

off.

BY BUS Shuttle bus service between

Phoenix, Flagstaff, Williams, and

Grand Canyon Village is provided

by Arizona Shuttle ( 800/

888-2749 or 928/226-8060; www.

arizonashuttle.com). Between

Phoenix and Flagstaff, adult fares

are $42 one-way and $84 round-

trip ($38 and $76 for Internet The Grand Canyon Railway.

243

6

bookings); between Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon, fares are $29 one-way

and $58 round-trip ($25 and $50 for Internet bookings). Shuttles also con-

nect Williams with Flagstaff and Grand Canyon Village, and there are shut-

tles between Flagstaff and Sedona as well.

VISITOR INFORMATION

You can get advance information on the Grand Canyon by contacting Grand

Canyon National Park, P.O. Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 ( 928/638-

7888; www.nps.gov/grca).

When you arrive at the park, stop by the Grand Canyon Visitor Center,

41⁄2 miles from the south entrance. Here you’ll find an information desk, exhibits,

a theater, and a shop selling maps, books, and videos. The center is open daily

8am to 5pm (9am–5pm in winter). Three large parking lots are adjacent to the

The Grand Canyon South Rim information plaza, and these are the best places to leave your car once you reach the park. From these lots, you can easily access the park’s system of free shuttle

buses. Wherever you park in Grand Canyon Village, you can catch the Village

Route bus to the visitor center and other parts of the village. If you park at Yaki

Point, you can take the Kaibab/Rim Route bus. The Guide, a small newspaper

RIZONA

full of useful information about the park, is available at both South Rim park

A

entrances. Although smaller, the Verkamp’s Visitor Center, near El Tovar

Hotel, is a much more convenient place to get park information. This latter visi-

tor center is open daily from 8am to 7pm in summer (until 6pm other months).

THERN

Displays here focus on the history of development in Grand Canyon Village.

OR

ORIENTATION

& N

Grand Canyon Village is built on the South Rim of the canyon and divided

roughly into two sections. At the east end of the village are the Grand Canyon

Visitor Center, Yavapai Lodge, Trailer Village, and Mather Campground. At the

ANYON

west end are El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel, Kachina, Thunderbird, and Mas-

C

wik lodges, as well as several restaurants, the train depot, and the trailhead for

the Bright Angel Trail.

RAND G GETTING AROUND

HE

As I mentioned earlier, the Grand Canyon Village area can be extremely congested,

T

especially in summer. If possible, you may want to use one of the transportation

options below to avoid the park’s traffic jams and parking problems. To give you an

idea, in summer you can expect at least a 20- to 30-minute wait at the South Rim

entrance gate just to get into the park. You can cut the waiting time here by acquiring an America the Beautiful–National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass

before arriving. The standard pass costs $80 and is good for 1 year. This pass is not an especially good value unless you plan to visit several other major national parks or lots of smaller parks and monuments. The senior pass and access pass are, on the

other hand, exceptional bargains. With any of the three America the Beautiful

passes in hand, you can use the express lane. See p. 214 for info.

BY BUS Free shuttle buses operate on three routes within the park. The Village

Route bus circles through Grand Canyon Village throughout the day with

frequent stops at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, hotels, campgrounds,

restaurants, Market Plaza (site of a general store, bank, laundry, and show-

ers), and other facilities. The Hermit’s Rest Route bus takes visitors to

eight canyon overlooks west of Bright Angel Lodge (this bus does

244

not operate Dec–Feb). The Kaibab/Rim Route bus stops at the Grand 6

Canyon Visitor Center, Mather Point, Yavapai Geology Museum, Pipe

Creek Vista, the South Kaibab Trailhead, and Yaki Point. There’s also a

THE

morning Hikers’ Express bus to the South Kaibab Trailhead. This bus stops

G

at Bright Angel Lodge, the Back Country Information Office, and the Grand

RAND

Canyon Visitor Center. Hikers needing transportation to or from Yaki Point

when the bus is not running can use a taxi ( 928/638-2822). Between

mid-May and mid-September, the Tusayan Route operates between the

CANYON

town of Tusayan, outside the park, and Grand Canyon Village, inside the

park. To use this shuttle, you must have a valid park entrance pass.

Between mid-May and mid-October, Trans Canyon ( 928/638-

2820; www.trans-canyonshuttle.com) offers shuttle-bus service between

& N

the South Rim and the North Rim. The vans leave the South Rim at 1:30pm

OR

and arrive at the North Rim at 6pm. The return trip leaves the North Rim

at 7am, arriving at the South Rim at 11:30am. The fare is $85 one-way and

THERN

$160 round-trip; reservations are required.

BY CAR Service stations are outside the south entrance to the park in Tusayan,

A

at Desert View near the east entrance (no cash sales in winter), and east of

RIZONA

the park at Cameron. Because of the long distances within the park and to

towns outside the park, fill up before setting out on a drive. Gas at the can-

yon is very expensive.

BY TAXI Taxi service is available to and from the airport, trailheads, and other

destinations ( 928/638-2822). The fare from the airport to Grand Can-

Fast Facts: The Grand Canyon

yon Village is $10 for up to two adults ($5 for each additional person).

THE GRAND

CANYON

Accessibility Check

The Center, Kolb Studio, El

Banks & ATMs There’s

Guide for park programs,

Tovar concierge desk, and

an ATM at the Chase bank

services, and facilities that

the Bright Angel, Yavapai,

( 928/638-2437) at Mar-

are partially or fully acces-

and Maswik transportation

ket Plaza, which is near

sible. You can also get the

desks. The national park has Yavapai Lodge. The bank is

Grand Canyon National

wheelchairs available at no

open Monday through

Park Accessibility Guide at

charge for temporary use

Thursday from 9am to 5pm

Grand Canyon Visitor Cen-

inside the park. You can

and Friday from 9am to 6pm.

ter, Yavapai Geology

usually find one of these

Climate The climate at

Museum, Kolb Studio,

wheelchairs at the Grand

the Grand Canyon is dra-

Verkamp’s Visitor Center,

Canyon Visitor Center. All

matically different from that

Tusayan Museum, and Des-

park shuttle buses are

of Phoenix, and between

ert View Visitor Center, as

wheelchair-accessible.

the rim and the canyon floor

well as on the park’s web-

Accessible tours can also be there’s also a pronounced

site. Temporary accessibility arranged by contacting any

difference. The South Rim is

permits are available at the

lodge transportation desk

at 7,000 feet and conse-

park entrances and the

or by calling Grand Canyon quently gets very cold in

Grand Canyon Visitor Cen-

National Park Lodges

winter. You can expect snow

ter, Verkamp’s Visitor

( 928/638-2631).

anytime between

245

6 November and May, and Festivals The Grand

the historic section of the

winter temperatures can be

Canyon Music Festival

village in less than 1.5 miles,

below 0°F (–18°C) at night,

( 800/997-8285 or 928/

and most of the route is

with daytime highs in the

638-9215; www.grand

along the rim. Another

20s or 30s (minus single

canyonmusicfest.org), which option is to park at the

digits to single digits Cel-

primarily features chamber

Maswik Transportation Cen-

sius). Summer temperatures music, takes place in late

ter parking lot, which is

at the rim range from highs

August and early Septem-

served by the Village Route

in the 80s (20s Celsius) to

ber. Performances are $15

shuttle bus.

lows in the 50s (teens Cel-

for adults and $8 for chil-

Police In an emergency,

sius). The North Rim of the

dren, and are held indoors

dial 911. Ticketing

canyon, which is slightly

at the Shrine of the Ages in

speeders is one of the main

higher than the South Rim

the South Rim’s Grand Can-

occupations of the park’s

Fast Facts: The Grand Canyon and stays a bit cooler

yon Village.

police force, so obey the

throughout the year, is open Hospitals & Clinics

posted speed limits.

to visitors only from May

The North Country Grand

through October because

Post Office The post

Canyon Clinic ( 928/638-

the access road is not kept

office ( 928/638-2512) is

2551) is on Clinic Drive, off

RIZONA

cleared of snow in winter.

at Market Plaza near Yavapai

A

Center Road (the road that

On the canyon floor,

Lodge. It’s open Monday

runs past the National Park

temperatures are consider-

through Friday from 9am to

Service ranger office). The

4:30pm and Saturday from

THERN

ably higher. In summer, the

clinic is open daily from 8am

mercury can reach 120°F

11am to 1pm.

OR

to 6pm (until 5pm Oct–

(49°C) with lows in the 70s

May). It provides 24-hour

Road Conditions

Information on road condi-

& N

(20s Celsius), while in winter, emergency service as well.

temperatures are quite

tions in the Grand Canyon

pleasant with highs in the

Laundry A coin-operated area is available by contact-

50s (teens Celsius) and lows laundry is located near

ing the Arizona Department

ANYON

Mather Campground in the

of Transportation ( 888/

C

in the 30s (single digits

Celsius). July, August, and

Camper Services building.

411-7623 or 511 [then

September are the wettest

Lost & Found Report press 4215#]; www.az511.

RAND

months because of frequent lost items or turn in found

com/adot/files/traffic).

G

afternoon thunderstorms.

items at the Grand Canyon

Safety The most impor-

HET

April, May, and June are the Visitor Center; call 928/

tant safety tip to remember

driest months, but it still

638-7798. For items lost or

is to be careful near the

might rain or even snow.

found at a hotel, restaurant, edge of the canyon. Foot-

Down on the canyon floor,

lounge, or shop call

ing can be unstable and

there is much less rain

928/638-2631.

may give way. Also, be sure

year-round.

Parking If you want to

to keep your distance from

Fees The entry fee for

avoid parking headaches,

wild animals, no matter how

Grand Canyon National

use one of the three large

friendly they may appear.

Park is $25 per car (or $12

lots by the Grand Canyon

Avoid hiking alone if at all

per person if coming in on

Visitor Center or the lot at

possible, and keep in mind

foot or by bicycle). Your

Market Plaza (the general

that the canyon rim is more

admission ticket is good for

store), which is up a side

than a mile above sea level

7 days. Don’t lose it, or

road near Yavapai Lodge.

(it’s harder to breathe up

you’ll have to pay again to

From these parking areas, a here). Do not leave valu-

reenter the park.

paved walking trail leads to

ables in your car or tent.

246

Exploring Grand

Pack a Lunch

6

Canyon National

Lunch options are very limited inside Grand

T

Canyon National Park, so if you are driving

HE

Park

up from Flagstaff, I suggest packing a picnic

G

DESERT VIEW DRIVE

lunch. Try stopping at a grocery store in

RAND

The vast majority of visitors to the

Flagstaff for supplies. Otherwise, you’re

Grand Canyon enter through the

going to be stuck eating burgers in a cafete-

C

south entrance. You can avoid ria when you could be sitting on the edge of

ANYON

congestion and have a much more

the canyon gazing out at one of the most

enjoyable experience if you enter

awe-inspiring vistas on earth.

the park through the east entrance.

& N

To reach this entrance from Flag-

staff, take U.S. 89 north to Ariz. 64, and then head west. Following this route,

OR

you’ll get great views of the canyon sooner after you enter the park and have

THERN

fewer parking problems. Even before you reach the park, you can stop and take

in views of the canyon of the Little Colorado River. These viewpoints are on the

Navajo Reservation, and at every stop you’ll have opportunities to shop for Native

A

American crafts and souvenirs at the numerous vendors’ stalls.

RIZONA

Desert View Drive, the park’s only scenic road open to cars year-round,

extends for 25 miles between Desert View, which is just inside the park’s east

entrance, and Grand Canyon Village, the site of all the park’s hotels and most of

its other commercial establishments. Along Desert View Drive, you’ll find not

only good viewpoints, but also several picnic areas. Much of this drive is through

The Grand Canyon South Rim

forests, and canyon views are limited; but where there are viewpoints, they are

among the best in the park.

Desert View is the first stop on this scenic drive, and with its historic

watchtower, general store, snack bar, service station, information center, book-

store, and big parking lot, it is better designed for handling large numbers of tourists than Grand Canyon Village.

The best views of the Colorado from the South Rim are at Lipan Point.

247

6

From anywhere at Desert View, the scenery is breathtaking, but the very

best perspective here is from atop the Desert View Watchtower, which dates

from 1932. Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who is responsible for much of

the park’s historic architecture, designed it to resemble the prehistoric towers

that dot the Southwestern landscape. Built as an observation tower and rest stop

for tourists, the watchtower incorporates Native American designs and art. The

curio shop on the ground floor is a replica of a kiva (sacred ceremonial chamber)

and has lots of interesting souvenirs, regional crafts, and books. The tower’s sec-

ond floor features work by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie. Covering the walls are pic-

tographs incorporating traditional designs. On the walls and ceiling of the upper

two floors are more traditional images by artist Fred Geary, this time reproduc-

tions of petroglyphs from throughout the Southwest. From the roof, which at

7,522 feet above sea level is the highest point on the South Rim, it’s possible to

The Grand Canyon South Rim see the Colorado River, the Painted Desert to the northeast, the San Francisco Peaks to the south, and Marble Canyon to the north. Several black-mirror “reflec-toscopes” provide interesting darkened views of some of the most spectacular

sections of the canyon.

At Navajo Point, the next stop along the rim, the Colorado River and

RIZONA

Escalante Butte are both visible, and there’s a good view of the Desert View

A

Watchtower. However, I suggest heading straight to Lipan Point

, where

you get the South Rim’s best views of the Colorado River. You can actually see

THERN

several stretches of the river, including a couple of major rapids. From here you

can also view the Grand Canyon supergroup: several strata of rock tilted at an

OR

angle to the other layers of rock in the canyon. The supergroup’s angle indicates

& N

there was a period of mountain building before the layers of sandstone, lime-

stone, and shale were deposited in this region. The red, white, and black rocks of

the supergroup are composed of sedimentary rock and layers of lava. One of the

park’s best-kept secrets, a little-known

ANYON C though very rugged trail, begins here at

Lipan Point (see “Hiking the Canyon,”

later, for details).

RAND

The Tusayan Museum (daily

G

9am–5pm) is the next stop along Des-

HET

ert View Drive. This small museum is

dedicated to the Hopi tribe and the

Ancestral Puebloan people who inhab-

ited the region 800 years ago. Outside

the museum, there are the ruins of an

Ancestral Puebloan village, and inside

the museum, there are artfully dis-

played exhibits on various aspects of

life in the village. A short self-guided

trail leads through the ruins. Free

guided tours are available.

Next along the drive is Moran

Point, from which you can see a layer of

red shale in the canyon walls. This point

is named for 19th-century landscape

painter Thomas Moran, who is known Wotan’s Throne is one of the canyon’s most

for his paintings of the Grand Canyon.

recognizable points.

248

i

Yak

l i a r T b a b i a

Point

K h t u o S

Pipe Creek Vista

64

1/2 mi

r

ameron

Tucson

Desert View Dr.

C

Flagstaff

Phoenix

To

Grand Canyon South Rim

Trailhead

Parking

Information

Trail

Railroad

1/2 km

Mathe Point

P

P

ARIZONA

26

d a

P

o

0

0

R e c

23

n

Visitor Center

a r t n

Yavapai Point

E

24

25

h t u

P

o S

P

22

l i

17

21

a r

19

T

18

P

64

16

180

,

f

m

s

i 15

R

20

lagstaf

Tusayan William

Clinic Road

To

& F

Center Road

Road

14

P

9

Market Plaza

8

7

21

10

6

P

4

5

11

5

7

6

12

24

l

23

i

P

a r

4

T

t

l e g n A

3

t

P

13

h

aricopa Poin

g i

M

r B

2

12

t

d a o R

LODGES & CAMPGROUNDS

Bright Angel Lodge

El Tovar Hotel

Kachina Lodge

Maswik Lodge

Mather Campground

Thunderbird Lodge

Trailer Village

Yavapai Lodge

Powell Poin

l

1

e

W

e w o R

9

t

Hermit Road

Trailview Overlook

15

16

1

Hopi Poin

3

8

2

25

t

22

d a

Mohave Poin

o R ti

ATTRACTIONS

Hopi House

Kolb Studio

Lookout Studio

McKee Amphitheater

Powell Memorial

Sage Loop Campfire

Circle

Shrine of the Ages

Verkamp’s Visitor Center

Yavapai Geology

Museum

The Abyss

Herm

10

26

yon

19

20

Rim Trail

t

26

11

18

Pima Poin

13

South Rim

17

14

Grand Can

Hermit Trailhead

Hermit’s Rest

SERVICES

Babbitt’s General Store

Backcountry Information Center

Bank

Books & More

Clinic

Grand Canyon Railway Depot

Grand Canyon Visitor Center

Laundry and Showers

Post Office

Ranger Office

249

6

Return of the Condor

With wingspans approaching 10 feet and

since then, several more condor pairs

weighing as much as 25 pounds, Califor-

have successfully raised offspring.

nia condors are the largest flying land

Condors are curious birds, and they

birds in North America. In the 1980s,

are often attracted to human activity.

there were only 22 California condors left

Consequently, they are often seen in or

in the wild, and these were captured so

near Grand Canyon Village on the South

that a captive-breeding program could

Rim of the canyon. Captive-raised con-

be instituted in hopes of bringing these

dors are easily recognized by the large

birds back from the brink of extinction.

numbers affixed to their wings. If you see

Between 1924 and 1996, if you had

a condor without a wing number, it is

seen a California condor in Arizona, you

one of the handful of birds that have

The Grand Canyon South Rim would likely have been in a zoo. There hatched in the wild in recent years. One were none of these giant birds living free

of the best places to spot condors is on

in a state where once they had been

the way to the North Rim on House Rock

plentiful. That all changed in 1996 when

Valley Road, north of U.S. 98A between

six captive-raised condors were released

Lees Ferry and Jacob Lake. A few miles

RIZONA

atop the Vermilion Cliffs (north of Grand

up this road, you will find interpretive

A

Canyon National Park). Since then

plaques and a viewpoint from which you

between 6 and 10 birds have been

can see the condor release site high atop

released annually, and there are now

the cliffs to the east. For more informa-

THERN

more than 50 condors flying free over

tion on the condor-release program, visit

OR

northern Arizona. In 2003, for the first

the Peregrine Fund website (www.

time in more than a century, a pair of

peregrinefund.org), which is the organi-

& N

condors hatched and raised a chick, and

zation that administers the program.

ANYON C

The next stop, Grandview Point, affords a view of Horseshoe Mesa,

another interesting feature of the canyon landscape. The mesa was the site of the

RAND

Last Chance Copper Mine in the early 1890s. Later that same decade, the

G

Grandview Hotel was built and served canyon visitors until its close in 1908. The

HE

steep, unmaintained Grandview Trail leads down to Horseshoe Mesa from here.

T

This trail makes a good less-traveled alternative to the South Kaibab Trail,

although it is somewhat steeper.

The last stop along Desert View Drive is Yaki Point, which is no longer

open to private vehicles (people passing by in cars typically park alongside the

main road and walk up the Yaki Point access road). The spectacular view from

here encompasses a wide section of the central canyon. The large, flat-topped

butte to the northeast is Wotan’s Throne, one of the canyon’s most readily recog-

nizable features. Yaki Point is the site of the trailhead for the South Kaibab Trail and consequently is frequented by hikers headed down to Phantom Ranch at the

bottom of the canyon. The South Kaibab Trail is the preferred downhill hiking

route to Phantom Ranch and is a more scenic route than the Bright Angel Trail.

If you’re planning a day hike into the canyon, this should be your number-one

choice. Be sure to bring plenty of water.

GRAND CANYON VILLAGE & VICINITY

Grand Canyon Village is the first stop for the vast majority of the nearly four mil-

lion people who visit the Grand Canyon every year. Consequently, it is the most

250

6

THE

GRAND

CANYON

& N

OR

crowded area in the park, but it also

THERN

has the most overlooks and visitor

services. Its many historic buildings

A

add to the popularity of the village,

RIZONA

which, if it weren’t so crowded all

the time, would have a pleasant

atmosphere. For visitors who have

entered the park through the south

entrance, that unforgettable initial

The Grand Canyon South Rim

gasp-inducing glimpse of the canyon

is usually at Mather Point, which

is down a short paved path from the FROM TOP: Yavapai Geology Museum. Kolb

Grand Canyon Visitor Center. The Studio, a one-time photo studio, is now a book-

store and houses exhibits.

visitor center, with its large parking

lots, is also a good place to park your car. From here you can get around the South

Rim by shuttle bus.

Continuing west toward the village proper, you next come to Yavapai

Point, which has the best view from anywhere in the vicinity of Grand Canyon Village. If you can bring yourself to drive past Mather Point and delay your initial glimpse of the canyon for a few minutes longer, Yavapai Point actually makes a

better first view of the canyon (although parking spaces here are limited). From

here you can see the Bright Angel Trail, Indian Gardens, Phantom Ranch, the

Colorado River, and even the suspension bridge that hikers and mule riders use

to cross the river to Phantom Ranch. Between Hoover Dam (downstream) and

the Navajo Bridge upstream near Lees Ferry, a distance of 340 miles, this is the

only bridge across the Colorado. Here you’ll also find the historic Yavapai Geol-

ogy Museum, which houses a small geology museum and has big walls of glass

to take in the extraordinary vistas. The geology displays here are the park’s best

introduction to the forces that created the Grand Canyon and should not be

missed. The museum is open daily from 8am to 8pm in summer (shorter hours

other months). Yavapai Point is a particularly good spot from which to take sun-

rise and sunset photos. If you want to do some walking, the paved Grand Canyon

Greenway extends 3.5 miles east to the South Kaibab Trailhead and 3 miles west,

passing through Grand Canyon Village along the way.

Continuing west from Yavapai Point, you’ll come to a parking lot at park

headquarters and a side road that leads to parking at the Market Plaza. Grand

251

6 Canyon Village proper is west of these parking areas, and a paved pathway that

leads along the rim here provides lots of good (though crowded) spots for taking

pictures. The village is the site of such historic buildings as El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel Lodge, both of which are worth brief visits to take in the lodge ambience of their lobbies. Inside Bright Angel Lodge you’ll find the Bright

Angel History Room, which has displays on Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter and

the Harvey Girls. Be sure to check out this room’s fireplace, which is designed

with all the same geologic layers that appear in the canyon. Adjacent to El Tovar

is the Hopi House Gift Store and Art Gallery, a historic souvenir-and-curio

shop. Built in 1905 to resemble a Hopi pueblo and to serve as a place for Hopi

artisans to work and sell their crafts, this was the first shop inside the park. Today, it’s full of Hopi and Navajo arts and crafts, including expensive kachina dolls,

rugs, jewelry, and pottery. This shop is open daily; hours vary seasonally.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

To the west of Bright Angel Lodge, two buildings cling precariously to the

rim of the canyon. These are the Kolb and Lookout studios, both of which are

listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Kolb Studio is named for

Ellsworth and Emory Kolb, two brothers who set up a photographic studio on the

rim of the Grand Canyon in 1904. The construction of this studio generated one

RIZONA

of the Grand Canyon’s first controversies—over whether buildings should be

A

allowed on the canyon rim. Because the Kolbs had friends in high places, their

sprawling studio and movie theater remained. Emory Kolb lived here until his

THERN

death in 1976, by which time the studio had been listed as a historic building. It

now serves as a bookstore, while the auditorium houses special exhibits. Kolb

OR

Studio is open daily; hours vary seasonally. During the winter months, free tours

& N

of the restored Kolb brothers’ residence are offered daily at 2:30pm. These tours

are limited to 12 participants and reservations are a must; make your reservation

in person at the Kolb Studio or by calling 928/638-2771.

Lookout Studio, built in 1914 from a design by Mary Elizabeth Jane Col-

ANYON C ter, was the Fred Harvey Company’s answer to the Kolb brothers’ studio and

incorporates architectural styles of the Hopi and the Ancestral Puebloans. The

use of native limestone and an uneven roofline allow the studio to blend in with

RAND

the canyon walls and give it the look of an old ruin. It now houses a souvenir store G

and two lookout points. Lookout Studio is open daily; hours vary seasonally.

HET

HERMIT ROAD

Hermit Road leads 8 miles west from Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest,

and mile for mile, it has the greatest concentration of breathtaking viewpoints in

the park. Because it is closed to private vehicles March through November, it is

also one of the most pleasant places to do a little canyon viewing or easy hiking

during the busiest times of year: no traffic jams, no parking problems, and plenty

of free shuttle buses operating along the route. Westbound buses stop at nine

overlooks (Trailview, Maricopa Point, Powell Point, Hopi Point, Mohave Point,

the Abyss, Monument Creek Vista, Pima Point, and Hermit’s Rest); eastbound

buses stop at only Pima, Mohave, and Powell points. December through Febru-

ary, you can drive your own vehicle along this road, but keep in mind that winters

usually mean a lot of snow, and the road can sometimes be closed due to hazard-

ous driving conditions.

Because you probably won’t want to stop at every viewpoint along this route,

here are some tips to help you get the most out of an excursion along Hermit

Road. First of all, keep in mind that the earlier you catch a shuttle bus, the more

252

likely you are to avoid the crowds (buses start at 4:30am, so photographers can 6

get good shots of the canyon in dawn light). Second, remember that the closer

you are to Grand Canyon Village, the larger the crowds will be. So, I recommend

THE

heading out early and getting a couple of miles between you and the village

G

before getting off the shuttle bus.

RAND

The first two stops are Trailview Overlook and Maricopa Point, both on the paved section of the Rim Trail and within 11⁄2 miles of the village, and thus usually pretty crowded. If you just want to do a short, easy walk on pavement, get out at CANYON

Maricopa Point and walk back to the village. From either overlook, you have a view

of the Bright Angel Trail winding down into the canyon from Grand Canyon Village.

The trail, which leads to the bottom of the canyon, crosses the Tonto Plateau about

3,000 feet below the rim. This plateau is the site of Indian Garden, where there’s a

& N

campground in a grove of cottonwood trees. Because the views from these two over-

OR

looks are not significantly different from those in the village, I suggest skipping these stops if you’ve already spent time gazing into the canyon from the village.

THERN

Powell Point, the third stop, is the site of a memorial to John Wesley Powell, who, in 1869 with a party of nine men, became the first person to navigate the Colo-A

rado River through the Grand Canyon. Visible at Powell Point are the remains of the

RIZONA

Orphan Mine, a copper mine that began operation in 1893. The mine went out of

business because transporting the copper to a city where it could be sold was too

expensive. Uranium was discovered here in 1951, but in 1969 the mine was shut

down, and in 1987 the land became part of Grand Canyon National Park. Again, I

recommend continuing on to the more spectacular vistas that lie ahead.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

The next stop is Hopi Point, which is one of the three best stops along this route. From here you can see a long section of the Colorado River far below you.

Because of the great distance, the river seems to be a tiny, quiet stream, but in

reality the section you see is more than 100 yards wide and races through Granite

Rapids. Because Hopi Point juts into the canyon, it is one of the best spots in the

park for taking sunrise and sunset photos (remember, shuttle buses operate from

4:30am to 1 hr. after sunset).

The view is even more spectacular at the next stop, Mohave Point. Here

you can see the river in two directions. Three rapids are visible from this over-

look, and on a quiet day, you can sometimes even hear Hermit Rapids. As with

almost all rapids in the canyon, Hermit Rapids are at the mouth of a side canyon

Leave the Driving to Them

Now, I’m not a big fan of guided tours,

Flagstaff rather than an overnight stay at

but sometimes they just make a lot of

the park, consider taking a tour with

sense. The Grand Canyon is one of those

American Dream Tours ( 888/203-

places, especially if you are usually the

1212 or 928/527-3369; www.american

designated driver. Why should you have

dreamtours.com). Not only will you get

to keep your eyes on the road when

to enjoy the scenery more, but knowl-

there’s all that gorgeous scenery right

edgeable guides will also fill you with

outside the window? Why not let some-

fascinating information about the can-

one else do the driving?

yon. Tours are $98 for adults and $69 for

If you plan on making your visit to

children 10 and under (lower rates may

the Grand Canyon a day trip from

be available on their website).

253

6

The Grand Canyon South Rim

RIZONA A The view from Hermit’s Rest, which is on the National Register of Historic Places.

where boulders loosened by storms and carried by flooded streams are deposited

THERN

in the Colorado River. Don’t miss this stop; it’s got the best view on Hermit Road.

OR

Next you come to the Abyss, the appropriately named 3,000-foot drop cre-

ated by the Great Mojave Wall. This vertiginous view is one of the most awe-

& N

inspiring in the park. The walls of the Abyss are red sandstone that’s more

resistant to erosion than the softer shale in the layer below. Other layers of ero-

sion-resistant sandstone have formed the free-standing pillars that are visible

ANYON

from here. The largest of these pillars is called the Monument. If you’re looking

C

for a good hike along this road, get out here and walk westward to either Pima

Point (3 miles away) or Hermit’s Rest (4 miles away).

RAND

The next viewpoint is Monument Creek Vista, which is also the start of

G

the paved Greenway Trail that extends for 3.5 miles from here to Hermit’s Rest.

HET

This is one of the newest trails in the park and is open to hikers and bicyclists.

Because it is set back from the road, Pima Point, about midway between Monument Creek Vista and Hermit’s Rest, is another good viewpoint for spotting, and

sometimes hearing, the Colorado River far below. From this overlook, it’s also pos-

sible to see the remains of Hermit Camp on the Tonto Plateau. Built by the Santa

Fe Railroad, Hermit Camp was a popular tourist destination between 1911 and

1930 and provided cabins and tents. From Pima Point, the Greenway Trail leads

through the forest near the canyon rim, providing good views undisturbed by traf-

fic on Hermit Road.

The final stop on Hermit Road is at Hermit’s Rest, which was named for

Louis Boucher, a prospector who came to the canyon in the 1890s and was

known as the Hermit. The log-and-stone Hermit’s Rest building, designed by

Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter and built in 1914, is on the National Register of

Historic Places and is one of the most fascinating structures in the park. With

its snack bar, it makes a great place to linger while you soak up a bit of park his-

tory. The steep Hermit Trail, which leads down into the canyon, begins just past

Hermit’s Rest.

254

6

THE

GRAND

CANYON

& N

OR

THERN

ARIZONA

Hermit Trail.

Organized Tours

BUS TOURS

The Grand Canyon South Rim

If you’d rather leave the driving to someone else and enjoy more of the scenery,

opt for a bus or van tour of one or more sections of the park. Xanterra South

Rim ( 888/297-2757, 303/297-2757, or, for same-day reservations, 928/638-2631; www.grandcanyonlodges.com) offers several tours within the park. These

can be booked by calling or stopping at one of the transportation desks, which are

at Bright Angel, Maswik, and Yavapai lodges (see “Where to Stay,” later). Prices

range from around $21 for a 11⁄2-hour sunrise or sunset tour to $59 for a combina-

tion of Desert View tour with any of the company’s other three tours—Hermit’s

Rest, sunrise, and sunset.

THE GRAND CANYON RAILWAY

In the early 20th century, most visitors to the Grand Canyon arrived by train, and

it’s still possible to travel to the canyon along the steel rails. The Grand Canyon Railway ( 800/843-8724 or 303/843-8724; www.thetrain.com), which runs from Williams to Grand Canyon Village, uses diesel engines and, occasionally,

early-20th-century steam engines that now run on waste vegetable oil. Trains

depart from the Williams Depot, which is housed in the historic 1908 Fray Marcos

Hotel and also contains a railroad museum, gift shop, and cafe. (Grand Canyon

Railway also operates the adjacent Grand Canyon Railway Hotel.) At Grand Can-

yon Village, the trains use the 1910 log railway terminal in front of El Tovar Hotel.

Passengers have the choice of four classes of service: coach, first class,

observation dome (upstairs in the dome car), and luxury parlor class. Actors pos-

ing as cowboys provide entertainment, including musical performances, aboard

the train. The round-trip takes 8 hours, including a 31⁄4- to 33⁄4-hour layover at the canyon. Fares range from $75 to $190 for adults, and $45 to $110 for children 2

to 12 (these rates do not include taxes or the park entry fee).

255

6

Not only is this a fun trip that pro-

vides great scenery and a trip back in

time, but taking the train also allows

you to avoid the traffic congestion and

parking problems in Grand Canyon

Village. When booking your train trip,

you can also book a bus tour in the

park, which will help you see more

than you would on foot. The railway

offers room/train packages as well.

In November, December, and

January, the railway’s Polar Express

provides service to the North Pole and

The Grand Canyon South Rim a visit from Santa.

Helicopter rides are one of the most popular

HELICOPTER & AIRPLANE

ways to see the Grand Canyon.

TOURS

Despite controversies over noise and safety (there have been a few crashes over the

RIZONA

years), airplane and helicopter flights over the Grand Canyon remain one of the

A

most popular ways to see this natural wonder. If you want to join the crowds buzzing above the canyon, you’ll find several companies operating out of Grand Canyon Airport in Tusayan. Air tours last anywhere from 30 minutes to about 2 hours.

THERN

Tours by small plane are operated by Grand Canyon Airlines ( 866/235-

OR

9422 or 928/638-2359; www.grandcanyonairlines.com). This company has been

& N

offering air tours since 1927 and is the oldest scenic airline at the canyon. Thirty-minute flights cost $159 for adults and $139 for children; and 50-minute flights

cost $120 for adults and $100 for children.

Helicopter tours are available from Maverick Helicopters ( 888/261-

ANYON C 4414 or 928/638-2622; www.maverickhelicopter.com), Grand Canyon Helicopters ( 800/541-4537 or 928/638-2764; www.grandcanyonhelicoptersaz.

com), and Papillon Grand Canyon Helicopters ( 888/635-7272 or

RAND

928/638-2419; www.papillon.com). Rates range from $139 to $185 for a 25- to

G

30-minute flight and from $160 to $210 for a 20- to 25-minute flight and $240

HET

to $250 for a 45- to 55-minute flight. Children sometimes receive a discount

(usually around $20).

INTERPRETIVE PROGRAMS

Numerous interpretive programs are scheduled throughout the year at various

South Rim locations. Walks led by rangers explore different aspects of the can-

yon; rangers give geology talks, offer lectures on the cultural and natural resources of the canyon, lead nature hikes, organize trips to fossil beds, and hold stargazing gatherings. At Tusayan Ruin, guided tours are offered. Many programs are held

at Mather Point Amphitheater and the Shrine of the Ages. Consult your copy of

The Guide for information on times and meeting points.

If you’re the active type or would like to turn your visit to the Grand Canyon

into more of an educational experience, consider doing a trip with the Grand Can-

yon Field Institute ( 866/471-4435; www.grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute).

Cosponsored by Grand Canyon National Park and the Grand Canyon Association,

the Field Institute schedules a wide variety of guided educational trips, such as

challenging backpacking trips through the canyon (some for women only) and

256

programs lasting anywhere from 1 day to more than a week. Subjects covered 6

include wilderness studies, geology, natural history, human history, photography,

and art.

THE

JEEP TOURS

GRAND

If you’d like to explore parts of Grand Canyon National Park that most visitors

never see, contact Grand Canyon Jeep Tours & Safaris ( 800/320-5337

or 928/638-5337; www.grandcanyonjeeptours.com), which offers three different

C

tours that visit the park as well as the adjacent Kaibab National Forest. One tour

ANYON

stops at a lookout tower that affords an elevated view of the canyon, while another

visits an Indian ruin and site of petroglyphs and cave paintings. Prices range from

$45 to $64 for adults and $35 to $49 for children 11 and under. A variety of com-

& N

bination tours are also offered.

OR

Outdoor Activities

THERN

BICYCLING

Until the past few years, bicycling at the Grand Canyon was a challenging propo-

A

sition. Bicycles were only allowed on roads, and the roads had narrow shoulders

RIZONA

and vehicle drivers were, of course, usually distracted by the views. However,

now that sections of the Greenway Trail have been constructed and Hermit Road

has been widened and made more bicycle-friendly, parts of the park are now easi-

ly explored by bike. If you aren’t traveling with your own bike, you can rent one

from Bight Angel Bicycles ( 928/814-8704; www.bikegrandcanyon.com),

The Grand Canyon South Rim

which has its rental facility at the Grand Canyon Visitors Center near parking lot

3. Bikes rent for $10 per hour or $25 for a half day ($7 and $15 for children under

17). This company also offers 21⁄2- to 3-hour guided bike tours along the canyon

rim. Tours cost $45 for adults and $35 for children under age 17. Bike rentals are

available from May to October.

HIKING THE CANYON

No visit to the canyon is complete without journeying below the rim on one of

the park’s hiking trails. Gazing up at all those thousands of feet of vertical rock

walls provides a very different perspective from that atop the rim. Should you

venture far below the rim, you also stand a chance of seeing fossils, old mines,

petroglyphs, wildflowers, and wildlife. However, with around four million people

visiting the Grand Canyon annually, you can forget about finding any solitude on

the park’s main hiking trails.

You can get away from most of the crowds simply by heading down the

Bright Angel or South Kaibab trail for 2 to 3 miles. Keep in mind, though, that

these are the two busiest trails below the canyon rim and can see hundreds of

hikers per day. If you want to see fewer other hikers and are in good shape, con-

sider heading down the Grandview Trail or the Hermit Trail instead. If you’re just

looking for an easy walk that doesn’t involve hiking back up out of the canyon, the

Rim Trail and the Greenway Trail are for you.

The Grand Canyon offers some of the most rugged and strenuous hiking

anywhere in the United States, and for this reason anyone attempting even a

short walk should be well prepared. Each year, injuries and fatalities are suffered

by day hikers who set out without sturdy footgear or without food and adequate

amounts of water. Even a 30-minute hike in summer can dehydrate you, and a

long hike in the heat can necessitate drinking more than a gallon of water. So,

257

6 carry and drink at least 2 quarts of water if you go for a day hike during the summer. Don’t attempt to hike from the rim to the Colorado River and back in a day;

plenty of hikers have died attempting this. Finally, remember that mules have

the right of way.

Day Hikes

Hikers tend to gravitate to loop trails, but here on the South Rim, you’ll find no

such trails. Still, the vastly different scenery in every direction makes out-and-

back hikes here as interesting as any loop trail could be. The only problem is that

you start off with gravity assisting you as you hike down into the canyon. With

little negative reinforcement and few natural turnaround destinations, it is easy to hike so far that the return trip back up the trail becomes an arduous death march.

Know your limits and turn around before you become tired. On the canyon rim,

the only hiking trail is the Rim Trail/Greenway Trail, while the Bright Angel, South The Grand Canyon South Rim Kaibab, Grandview, and Hermit trails all head down into the canyon.

For an easy, flat hike, your main option is the Rim Trail/Greenway Trail,

which stretches for 13 miles from the South Kaibab Trailhead east of Grand Can-

yon Village to Hermit’s Rest, 8 miles west of the village. Around 81⁄2 miles of this RIZONA

trail are paved, and the portion that passes through Grand Canyon Village is

A

always the most crowded stretch of trail in the park. To the west of the village,

after the pavement ends, the Rim Trail leads another 5.8 miles out to Hermit’s

Rest. For most of this distance, the trail follows Hermit Road, which means you’ll

THERN

have to deal with traffic noise (although only from shuttle buses for most of the

OR

year). The last 3.5 miles of the Rim Trail is now part of the paved Greenway Trail.

To avoid the crowds and get the most enjoyment out of a hike along the Rim Trail,

& N

I like to head out as early in the morning as possible and get off at the Abyss

shuttle stop. From here it’s a 4-mile hike to Hermit’s Rest; for more than half of

this distance, the trail isn’t as close to the road as it is at the Grand Canyon Village ANYON

end of the route. Plus, Hermit’s Rest makes a great place to rest, and from here

C

you can catch a shuttle bus back to the

village. Alternatively, you could start

RAND

hiking from Grand Canyon Village (it’s

G

right around 8 miles from the west end

HE

of the village to Hermit’s Rest) or any of

T

the eight shuttle-bus stops en route, or

take the shuttle all the way to Hermit’s

Rest and then hike back.

If you have dreamed of a Grand

Canyon without the crowds of gawkers

at all the scenic viewpoints, then you’re

a candidate for a hike to little-known

Shoshone Point. The route to this

secluded overlook (actually a reserv-

able group picnic area) is along a flat

dirt access road that makes this a good

bet for a family walk (just keep a tight

rein on the kids once you get to the

canyon rim since there are no fences

here). There are no signs for Shoshone

Point, so you’ll just have to watch for Avoid the crowds with a hike of Shoshone

Point.

258

the small dirt parking area and gate on 6

the north side of the road at milepost

246. You can’t drive in without a permit

THE

(permits are only for groups and cost

G

$250), and if the gate is open, it usually

RAND

means that a group is using the site. If

this is the case, you’ll probably want to

skip this hike. You’ll find the parking

CANYON

area 19 miles west of the Desert View

entrance to the park and 21⁄3 miles east

of the Grand Canyon Village end of

Desert View Drive.

& N

The Bright Angel Trail, which

OR

starts just west of Bright Angel Lodge in

Grand Canyon Village, is the most popu-

THERN

lar trail into the canyon because it starts

right where the greatest number of park

A

visitors tend to congregate (near the ice-

RIZONA

cream parlor and the hotels). It is also

the route traditionally used by mule rid-

The South Kaibab Trail offers the best views

ers headed down into the canyon. Bear

of any of the trails into the canyon.

in mind that this trail follows a narrow

side canyon for several miles and thus

The Grand Canyon South Rim

has somewhat limited views. For these reasons, this trail is worth avoiding. On the

other hand, it’s the only maintained trail into the canyon that has potable water, and there are four destinations along the trail that make good turnaround points. Both

11⁄2 Mile Resthouse (1,131 ft. below the rim) and 3 Mile Resthouse (2,112 ft. below

the rim) have water (except in winter, when the water is turned off). Keep in mind

that these rest houses take their names from their distance from the rim; if you hike to 3 Mile Resthouse, you still have a 3-mile hike back up. Destinations for longer

day hikes include Indian Garden (9 miles round-trip) and Plateau Point (12 miles

round-trip), which are both slightly more than 3,000 feet below the rim. There is

year-round water at Indian Garden.

The South Kaibab Trail

begins near Yaki Point east of Grand Can-

yon Village and is the preferred route down to Phantom Ranch. This trail also

offers the best views of any of the trails into the canyon, so should you have time

for only 1 day hike, make it the South Kaibab Trail. From the trailhead, it’s 3

miles round-trip to Cedar Ridge and 6 miles round-trip to Skeleton Point. The

hike is very strenuous, and no water is available along the trail.

If you’re looking to escape the crowds and are an experienced mountain or

desert hiker with good, sturdy boots, consider the unmaintained Hermit Trail,

which begins at Hermit’s Rest, 8 miles west of Grand Canyon Village at the end

of Hermit Road. It’s a 5-mile round-trip hike to Santa Maria Spring on a trail that

loses almost all of its elevation (1,600–1,700 ft.) in the first 1.5 miles. Beyond

Santa Maria Spring, the Hermit Trail descends to the Colorado River, but it is a

17-mile hike, one-way, from the trailhead. Alternatively, you can do a 7-mile

round-trip hike to Dripping Springs. Water from these two springs must be

treated with a water filter, iodine, or purification tablets, or by boiling for at least 10 minutes, so you’re better off just carrying sufficient water for your hike. March through November, Hermit Road is closed to private vehicles, so during these

259

6 months, you’ll need to take the free shuttle bus out to the trailhead. If you take the first bus of the day, you’ll likely have the trail almost all to yourself.

The Grandview Trail, which begins at Grandview Point 12 miles east of

Grand Canyon Village, is another steep and unmaintained trail that’s a good

choice for physically fit hikers. A strenuous 6-mile round-trip hike leads down to

Horseshoe Mesa, 2,600 feet below the trailhead. No water is available, so carry

at least 2 quarts. Just to give you an idea of how steep this trail is, you’ll lose more than 2,000 feet of elevation in the first .8 mile down to Coconino Saddle.

There’s one other trail I have to tell you about, but you have to promise not

to tell anyone else. This trail is so secret that the National Park Service doesn’t

mark it on the maps it hands out to park visitors. It’s called the Tanner Trail , and it starts just downhill from the beginning of the parking lot at Lipan Point

near the east end of Desert View Drive. This is one of the shortest, steepest, and

The Grand Canyon South Rim most challenging trails down into the canyon, but you can often have it all to yourself even when the park is packed with tourists. This trail is not for everyone.

You must be in excellent shape, with good knees and strong quadriceps. Don’t

even think of setting foot on this trail unless you are wearing very sturdy boots

with excellent ankle support. Take lots of water and drink it. Finally, remember

RIZONA

that it will take you considerably longer to hike back up than it took you to hike

A

down. So how far can you hike on this trail? Well, that’s up to you. It’s 3 miles and a 1,700-foot elevation drop to Escalante Butte, from which you get a good view

THERN

of Marble Canyon, Hance Rapids, and the bottom of the canyon.

OR

Backpacking

Backpacking the Grand Canyon is an unforgettable experience. Although most

& N

people are content to simply hike down to Phantom Ranch and back, there are

many miles of trails deep in the canyon. Keep in mind, however, that to backpack

the canyon, you’ll need to do a lot of planning. A Backcountry Use Permit is

ANYON

required of all hikers planning to overnight in the canyon, unless you’ll be staying C

at Phantom Ranch.

Because a limited number of hikers are allowed into the canyon on any given

RAND

day, it’s important to make permit requests as soon as it is possible to do so. Permit G

requests are taken in person, by mail, by fax (but not by phone), and online. Con-

HE

tact the Backcountry Information Center, Grand Canyon National Park, P.O.

T

Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 ( 928/638-7875 Mon–Fri 1–5pm for infor-

mation; fax 928/638-2125; www.nps.gov/grca). The office begins accepting written

permit requests on the first of every month for the following 5 months. In-person,

verbal permit requests can be made only for the following 4 months. Holiday peri-

ods are the most popular—if you want to hike over the Labor Day weekend, be

sure you make your reservation on May 1. If you show up without a hiking permit,

go to the Backcountry Information Center (daily 8am–noon and 1–5pm), adjacent

to Maswik Lodge, and put your name on the waiting list. When applying for a per-

mit, you must specify your exact itinerary, and once in the canyon, you must stick

to this itinerary. Backpacking fees include a nonrefundable $10 backcountry per-

mit fee and a $5 per-person per-night backcountry camping fee. Keep in mind that

you’ll still have to pay the park entry fee when you arrive at the Grand Canyon.

There are campgrounds at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground

(near Phantom Ranch), and Cottonwood, but hikers are limited to 2 nights per

trip at each of these campgrounds (except Nov 15–Feb 28, when 4 nights are

allowed at each campground). Other nights can be spent camping at undesig-

nated sites in certain regions of the park.

260

The Grand Canyon Trip Planner contains information to help you plan your

6

itinerary. It’s available through the Backcountry Information Center (see contact

information, above). Maps are available through the Grand Canyon Associa-

THE

tion, P.O. Box 399, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 ( 800/858-2808 or 928/638-G

2481; www.grandcanyon.org), and at bookstores and gift shops within the

RAND

national park, including Grand Canyon Visitor Center, Verkamp’s Visitor Center,

Kolb Studio, Desert View Information Center, Yavapai Observation Station,

Tusayan Museum, and, on the North Rim, Grand Canyon Lodge.

CANYON

The best times of year to backpack are spring and fall. In summer, tempera-

tures at the bottom of the canyon are frequently above 100°F (38°C), while in

winter, ice and snow at higher elevations make footing on trails precarious (cram-

pons are recommended). Plan to carry at least 2 quarts, and preferably 1 gallon,

& N

of water whenever backpacking in the canyon.

OR

The Grand Canyon is an unforgiving landscape and, as such, many people

might want a professional guide while backpacking through this rugged corner of

THERN

the Southwest. To arrange a guided backpacking trip into the canyon, contact

Discovery Treks, 28248 N. Tatum Blvd., Ste. B1-414, Cave Creek, AZ 85331

A

( 888/256-8731; www.discoverytreks.com), which offers 3- to 5-day all-

RIZONA

inclusive hikes into the canyon with rates starting at $795 per person.

TRAIL RIDES BY MULE & HORSE

Mule rides into the canyon have been popular since the beginning of the 20th

century, when the Bright Angel Trail was a toll road. After having a look at the

The Grand Canyon South Rim

steep drop-offs and narrow path of the Bright Angel Trail, you might decide this

isn’t exactly the place to trust your life to a mule. Never fear: Wranglers will be

quick to reassure you they haven’t lost a rider yet. There are mule rides along the

rim and down to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. The 3-hour rides

meander through the forest and eventually arrive at the Abyss, a spectacular

viewpoint along Hermit Road. Those who want to spend a night down in the

canyon can choose an overnight trip to

Phantom Ranch, where cabins and

dormitories are available at the only

lodge actually in the canyon. From

November to March, a 2-night trip to

Phantom Ranch is offered; other times

of year, you’ll ride down one day and

back up the next. Mule trips range in

price from $121 for the 3-hour ride to

$498 for an overnight ride to $701 for

the 2-night ride. Couples get discounts

on overnight rides.

Riders to Phantom Ranch must

weigh less than 200 pounds fully

dressed (225 pounds for riders on the

Abyss ride); stand at least 4 feet, 7

inches tall; and speak and understand

English fluently. Pregnant women are

not allowed on mule trips.

Mules to the bottom of the canyon book at

Because these trail rides are very

least 6 months in advance.

popular (especially in summer), they

261

6 often book up 6 months or more in advance (reservations are taken up to 13

months in advance). For more information or to make a reservation, contact Xan-

terra Parks & Resorts ( 888/297-2757 or 303/297-2757; www.grandcanyon lodges.com). If, at the last minute (5 days or fewer from the day you want to ride), you decide you want to go on a mule trip, contact Xanterra South Rim at its

Arizona phone number ( 928/638-2631) for the remote possibility that there

may be space available. If you arrive at the canyon without a reservation and

decide that you’d like to go on a mule ride, stop by the Bright Angel Transporta-

tion Desk to get your name put on the next day’s waiting list.

If you’d rather spend less time in the saddle and don’t mind not seeing the

canyon from the back of your horse or mule, head out of the park to Apache

Stables ( 928/638-2891; www.apachestables.com), which is located a mile north of Tusayan on Moqui Drive. A 1-hour ride costs $49 and a 2-hour ride is

The Grand Canyon South Rim $89. There are also wagon rides ($26) and campfire rides ($59; be sure to bring something to cook over the fire). The stables are closed in winter.

RAFTING THE COLORADO RIVER

Ever since John Wesley Powell proved that it was possible to travel by boat down

RIZONA

the tumultuous Colorado, running the big river has become a passion and an

A

obsession with adventurers. Numerous companies offer trips through various

sections of the canyon. You can spend as little as half a day on the Colorado

(downstream from Glen Canyon Dam; see “Lake Powell & Page,” in chapter 7)

THERN

or more than 2 weeks. You can go down the river in a huge motorized rubber raft

OR

(the quickest and noisiest way to see the entire canyon), a paddle- or oar-powered

& N

raft (more thrills and, if you have to help paddle, more energy expended on your

part), or a wooden dory (the biggest thrill of all). In a motorized raft, you can

travel the entire canyon from Lees Ferry to Lake Mead in only 8 days; however,

you’ll have to listen to the outboard motor whenever you aren’t in the middle of a

ANYON C

RAND G

HET

Rafting trips can last from a half-day to 2 weeks.

262

rapid. Should you opt for a dory or an oar- or paddle-powered raft, expect to 6

spend 5 to 6 days getting from Lees Ferry to Phantom Ranch, or 7 to 9 days get-

ting from Phantom Ranch to Diamond Creek, just above Lake Mead. Aside from

THE

the half-day trips near Glen Canyon Dam, any Grand Canyon rafting trip will

G

involve lots of monster rapids. Variables to consider include hiking in or out of

RAND

Phantom Ranch for a combination rafting-and-hiking adventure.

Most trips start from Lees Ferry near Page and Lake Powell. It’s also possi-

ble to start a trip at Phantom Ranch, hiking in from either the North or South

CANYON

Rim. The main rafting season is April through October, but some companies

operate year-round. Rafting trips tend to book up more than a year in advance,

and some companies begin taking reservations as early as January for the follow-

ing year’s trips. Although it is possible to book a rafting trip for $250 per day, the

& N

majority of trips fall in the $300 to $375 per day range, with rates depending on

OR

the length of the trip and the type of boat used.

The following are companies I recommend checking out when you start

THERN

planning your Grand Canyon rafting adventure:

Arizona Raft Adventures, 4050 E. Huntington Dr., Flagstaff, AZ 86004

A

( 800/786-7238; www.azraft.com); 6- to 16-day motor, oar, and paddle

RIZONA

trips. Although this is not one of the larger companies operating on the river,

it offers lots of different trips, including those that focus on natural history

and others that double as yoga workshops. They also do trips in paddle rafts

that allow you to help navigate and provide the power while shooting the can-

yon’s many rapids.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

Canyoneers, P.O. Box 2997, Flagstaff, AZ 86003 ( 800/525-0924 or

928/526-0924; www.canyoneers.com); 3- to 7-day motorized-raft trips and

6- to 14-day oar-powered trips. Way back in 1938, this was the first company

to take paying customers down the Colorado, and Canyoneers is still one of

the top companies on the river.

Grand Canyon Whitewater, 916 Vista St. (P.O. Box 1300), Page, AZ 86040

( 800/343-3121 or 928/645-8866; www.grandcanyonwhitewater.com); 4-

to 8-day motorized-raft trips and 6- to 13-day oar trips.

Grand Canyon Expeditions Company, P.O. Box O, Kanab, UT 84741

( 800/544-2691 or 435/644-2691; www.gcex.com); 8-day motorized trips

and 14- and 16-day dory trips. If you’ve got the time, I highly recommend

these dory trips—they’re among the most thrilling adventures in the world.

Hatch River Expeditions, HC 67 Box 35, Marble Canyon, AZ 86036

( 800/856-8966 or 928/355-2241; www.hatchriverexpeditions.com); 4-

to 8-day motorized trips and 6-, 7-, and 12-day oar trips. All of this com-

pany’s trips, except their upper-canyon expedition, end with a helicopter

flight out of the canyon. This company has been in business running the

Grand Canyon since 1934 and claims to be the oldest commercial rafting

company in the U.S. With so much experience, you can count on Hatch to

provide you with a great trip.

Outdoors Unlimited, 6900 Townsend Winona Rd., Flagstaff, AZ 86004

( 800/637-7238 or 928/526-4511; www.outdoorsunlimited.com); 5- to

15-day oar and paddle trips. This company has been taking people through

the canyon for more than 40 years and usually sends them home very happy.

263

6

Wilderness River Adventures, P.O. Box 717, Page, AZ 86040 ( 800/992-

8022; www.riveradventures.com); 4- to 8-day motorized-raft trips and 6-, 7-, 10-, 12-, 14-, and 16-day oar trips. The 4-day trips (actually 31⁄2 days) involve

hiking out from Phantom Ranch. This is one of the bigger companies operat-

ing on the canyon, and it offers a wide variety of trips, which makes it a good

one to check with if you’re not sure which type of trip you want to do.

For information on 1-day rafting trips at the west end of the Grand Canyon,

see “Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon West,” later in this chapter. For informa-

tion on half-day trips near Page, see “Lake Powell & Page,” in chapter 7.

Activities Outside the Canyon

If you aren’t completely beat at the end of the day, check the entertainment

schedule at Tusayan’s Grand Hotel ( 928/638-3333). Cowboy singers and The Grand Canyon South Rim Native American dancers perform here regularly.

For a virtual Grand Canyon experience, you can see an IMAX movie at the

National Geographic Visitor Center, 450 Ariz. 64 ( 928/638-2468; www.

grandcanyonimaxtheater.com), in Tusayan outside the south entrance to the

RIZONA

park. A short IMAX film covering the history and geology of the canyon is shown

A

throughout the day on the theater’s six-story screen. Admission is $13 for adults

and $9.50 for children 6 to 10. March to October, there are shows daily between

8:30am and 8:30pm; November to February, shows are daily between 10:30am

THERN

and 6:30pm.

OR

Outside the east entrance to the park, the Cameron Trading Post ( 800/

338-7385 or 928/679-2231; www.camerontradingpost.com), at the crossroads

& N

of Cameron where Ariz. 64 branches off U.S. 89, is the best trading post in the

state. The original stone trading post, a historic building, now houses a gallery of Indian artifacts, clothing, and jewelry. This gallery sells museum-quality pieces,

ANYON

but even if you don’t have $10,000 to drop on a rug or basket, you can still look

C

around. The main trading post is a more modern building and is the largest trad-

ing post in northern Arizona. Don’t miss the beautiful terraced gardens in back of

RAND

the original trading post.

G

HE

Where to Eat

T

INSIDE THE PARK

If you’re looking for a quick, inexpensive meal, there are plenty of options. In

Grand Canyon Village, choices include cafeterias at the Yavapai and Maswik

lodges and a delicatessen at Canyon Village Marketplace on Market Plaza. The

Bright Angel Fountain, at the back of the Bright Angel Lodge, serves hot dogs, sandwiches, and ice cream and is always crowded on hot days. My favorite place

in the park to grab a quick bite is the Hermit’s Rest Snack Bar at the west end of Hermit Road. The stone building that houses this snack bar was designed by

Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who also designed several other buildings on the

South Rim. At Desert View (near the east entrance to the park), there’s the Des-

ert View Trading Post Cafeteria. All of these places are open daily, and all serve meals for $10 and under.

The Arizona Room SOUTHWESTERN Because this restaurant has the

best view of the three dining establishments right on the South Rim, it is

immensely popular and is my favorite restaurant in the park. Add to this the fact

that the Arizona Room has a Southwestern menu almost as creative as that of El

264

Tovar Dining Room, and you’ll understand why there is often a long wait for a 6

table here. To avoid the wait and take in the views, arrive early, which should

assure you of getting a good table without too much of a wait. Once you finally

THE

sit down to eat, I recommend both the blackened salmon with avocado-tomatillo

G

salsa and the baby back ribs with either the prickly-pear or chipotle glaze.

RAND

Because this restaurant is open for lunch part of the year, you’ve got another great option for dining with a billion-dollar view.

At the Bright Angel Lodge. 928/638-2631. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$12

CANYON

lunch, $15–$28 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 4:30–10pm (Mar–Oct also lunch daily 11:30am–3pm). Closed Jan–Feb.

Bright Angel Restaurant AMERICAN As the least expensive of the

& N

three restaurants right on the rim of the canyon, this casual Southwestern-

themed coffeehouse in the historic Bright Angel Lodge stays packed with fami-

OR

lies throughout the day. Meals are simple and none too memorable, but if you

THERN

can get one of the few tables near the windows, at least you get something of a

view. The menu includes everything from burgers to fajitas to spaghetti (foods

calculated to comfort tired and hungry hikers), but my favorite offerings are the

ARIZONA

bread bowls full of chili and stew that are served at lunch. Wines are available,

and service is generally friendly and efficient.

At the Bright Angel Lodge. 928/638-2631. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$10

lunch, $8.50–$26 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–10:45am, 11:15am–4pm, and 4:30–10pm.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

El Tovar Dining Room

CONTINENTAL/SOUTHWESTERN If

you’re staying at El Tovar, you’ll want to have dinner in the hotel’s rustic yet elegant dining room. But before making reservations at the most expensive restau-

rant in the park, be aware that few tables have views of the canyon. However,

despite the limited views, the meals served here are the best on the South Rim.

The menu includes a bit of Southwestern flavor, but for the most part, it sticks to

familiar Continental dishes. The New York strip steak is a good bet, as is the wild

salmon tostada. Start your meal with the interesting little roulades (flavorful bite-size tortilla roll-ups). Service is generally quite good. Have a drink in the bar

before dinner (you might even be able to snag a table with a view).

At El Tovar Hotel. 928/638-2631, ext. 6432. Reservations highly recommended for dinner.

Main courses $10–$15 lunch, $18–$31 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:45am, 11:15am–2pm, and 5–10pm.

IN TUSAYAN (OUTSIDE THE SOUTH ENTRANCE)

In addition to the restaurants listed below, you’ll find a steakhouse and a pizza

place, as well as few familiar national fast-food chains.

Canyon Star Restaurant and Saloon AMERICAN/MEXICAN This

place aims to compete with El Tovar Dining Room and the Arizona Room, and

serves the most creative Southwestern fare this side of the park boundary, plus

you’ll have live entertainment while you eat. Try the barbecued buffalo brisket.

Evening shows include cowboy music and performances of Native American

songs and dances. This place is big, so there usually isn’t too long a wait for a

table; and even if there is, you can relax in the saloon where you can saddle up a

bar stool (some of the stools have saddles instead of seats).

265

6 At the Grand Hotel, Ariz. 64. 928/638-3333. Reservations recommended in summer. Main courses $10–$20 lunch, $11–$27 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mar–Nov daily 6–10am, noon–

2pm, and 5–10pm; Dec–Feb daily 7–11am and 5–9pm.

Coronado Room CONTINENTAL/SOUTHWESTERN If you should sud-

denly be struck by an overpowering desire to have escargot for dinner, don’t

despair—head for the Best Western Premier Grand Canyon Squire Inn (p. 268).

Now, I’m well aware that Best Western and escargot go together about as well as

the Eiffel Tower and rattlesnake fritters, but this place really does serve classic

Continental fare way out here in the Arizona high country. You’ll probably want to

stick to the steaks, though (or the wild game such as elk tournedos). You might

also want to try a few of the Southwestern appetizers on the menu. Be prepared

for slow service.

The Grand Canyon South Rim At the Best Western Premier Grand Canyon Squire Inn, 100 Ariz. 64. 928/638-2681. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.

Where to Stay

Keep in mind that the Grand Canyon is one of the most popular national parks in

RIZONA

the country, and hotel rooms both within and just outside the park are in high

A

demand. Make reservations as far in advance as possible. Don’t expect to find a

room if you head up here in summer without a reservation. You’ll likely wind up driv-THERN

ing back to Williams or Flagstaff to find a vacancy. There, is, however, one long-shot option. See “Inside the Park,” below, for details. Who knows? You might get lucky.

OR

INSIDE THE PARK

& N

All hotels inside the park are operated by Xanterra South Rim/Xanterra

Parks & Resorts. Reservations are taken up to 13 months in advance, beginning on the first of the month. If you want to stay in one of the historic rim cabins ANYON C at Bright Angel Lodge, reserve at least a year in advance. However, rooms with shared bathrooms at Bright Angel Lodge are often the last in the park to book up,

and although they’re small and very basic, they’re your best bet if you’re trying to RAND

get a last-minute reservation.

G

To make reservations at any of the in-park hotels listed below, contact Xan-

HET

terra South Rim/Xanterra Parks & Resorts, 6312 S. Fiddlers Green Circle, Ste. 600N, Greenwood Village, CO 80111 ( 888/297-2757 or 303/297-2757;

www.grandcanyonlodges.com). It is sometimes possible, due to cancellations

and no-shows, to get a same-day reservation; it’s a long shot, but it happens.

Same-day reservations can be made by calling 928/638-2631. Xanterra

accepts American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, and Visa. Chil-

dren 16 and under stay free in their parent’s room.

Expensive

El Tovar Hotel

El Tovar Hotel, which first opened its doors in 1905, is the

park’s premier lodge. Built of local rock and Oregon pine by Hopi craftsmen, it’s a

rustic yet luxurious mountain lodge that perches on the edge of the canyon

(although with views from only a few rooms). The lobby, entered from a veranda set

with rustic furniture, has a small fireplace, cathedral ceiling, and log walls on which moose, deer, and antelope heads are displayed. Although guest rooms are comfortable and attractively decorated, the standard units are rather small, as are the bathrooms. For more legroom, book a deluxe unit. Suites, with private terraces and

stunning views, are extremely spacious. El Tovar Dining Room (see “Where to Eat,”

266

above) serves a mix of Continental and Southwestern cuisine and is the best res-

6

taurant in the village. Just off the lobby is a cocktail lounge with a view.

78 units. $178–$281 double; $345–$440 suite. Amenities: Restaurant, El Tovar Dining Room (see THE

review, p. 265); lounge; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer.

G

Moderate

RAND

Thunderbird & Kachina Lodges If you want great views, these hotels are

your best bets—but only if you get a room with a view. These two side-by-side

C

hotels date from the 1960s and, with their dated exteriors, are a far cry from what

ANYON

you might imagine a national park hotel would look like. They do, however, have

the biggest windows of any of the hotels on the canyon rim, and they also have

the most modern rooms. If you get a second-story room on the canyon side of

& N

either hotel, you’ll get some of the best views in the park (these rooms at the

Kachina Lodge get the nod for having the best views). Book early—these two

OR

lodges are some of the park’s most popular accommodations. Just remember, if

THERN

it’s not a view room, you’ll be staring at the parking lot, and the lodge will not

guarantee canyon-view rooms.

104 units. $180–$191 double. In room: TV, fridge, hair dryer.

ARIZONA

Yavapai Lodge Located in several buildings at the east end of Grand Canyon

Village (a 1-mile hike from the main section of the village, but convenient to the

Grand Canyon Visitor Center), the Yavapai is the largest lodge in the park and thus

is where you’ll likely wind up if you wait too long to make a reservation. Unfortu-

nately, it’s also the least-appealing hotel in the park. There are no canyon views,

The Grand Canyon South Rim

which is why Yavapai is less expensive than the Thunderbird and Kachina lodges.

If you must stay here, try for a room in the nicer Yavapai East wing, which is set

under shady pines. Rooms in this wing have air-conditioning. However, I recom-

mend that you plan ahead and try to stay at one of the lodges right on the rim.

358 units. $120–$166 double (winter discounts available). Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV.

Inexpensive

Bright Angel Lodge & Cabins Bright Angel Lodge, which began opera-

tion in 1896 as a collection of tents and cabins on the edge of the canyon, is the

most affordable lodge in the park, and, with its flagstone-floor lobby and huge

fireplace, it has a genuine, if crowded, mountain-lodge atmosphere. It also hap-

pens to offer the greatest variety of accommodations in the park. The best and

most popular units are the rim cabins, which should be booked a year in advance.

In fact, any rooms here should be booked as far in advance as possible. Most of

the rooms and cabins feature rustic furnishings. The Buckey Suite, the oldest

structure on the canyon rim, is arguably the best room in the park, with a canyon

view, gas fireplace, and king-size bed. The tour desk, big fireplace, museum, and

restrooms account for the constant crowds in the lobby.

86 units (20 w/shared bathrooms). $83 double with shared bathroom; $94 double with private bathroom; $117–$183 cabin; $183–$350 suite. Amenities: 2 restaurants, Arizona Room and Bright Angel Restaurant (see reviews, p. 264 and 265); snack bar; lounge. In room: No phone.

Maswik Lodge Set back 1⁄4 mile or so from the rim, the Maswik Lodge offers

spacious rooms and cabins that have been comfortably modernized without los-

ing their appealing rustic character. If you don’t mind roughing it a bit, the 28 old cabins, which are available only in summer, have lots of character. These cabins

have high ceilings and ceiling fans, and are my top choice away from the rim. If

267

6 you crave modern appointments, lots of space, and predictably comfortable air-

conditioned accommodations, opt for one of the large Maswik North rooms,

which also have refrigerators and coffeemakers. Second-floor rooms have high

ceilings and balconies, which makes them your most comfortable choice away

from the rim.

278 units. $92–$176 double (winter discounts available); $94 cabin. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: TV, fridge.

Phantom Ranch Built in 1922, Phantom Ranch is the only lodge at the bot-

tom of the Grand Canyon and has a classic ranch atmosphere. Accommodations are

in rustic stone-walled cabins or 10-bed gender-segregated dormitories. Evaporative

coolers keep both the cabins and the dorms cool in summer. Make reservations as

early as possible, and don’t forget to reconfirm. (It’s sometimes possible to get a room The Grand Canyon South Rim on the day of departure if there are any last-minute cancellations, though. To attempt this, you must put your name on the waiting list at the Bright Angel Lodge

transportation desk the day before you want to stay at Phantom Ranch.)

Family-style meals must be reserved in advance. The menu consists of beef-

and-vegetable stew ($27) and steak ($42). Breakfasts ($21) are hearty, and sack

RIZONA

lunches ($13) are available as well. Between meals, the dining hall becomes a

A

canteen selling snacks, drinks, gifts, and necessities. After dinner, it serves as a beer hall. A mule-back duffel transfer ($65) between Grand Canyon Village and

Phantom Ranch can be arranged.

THERN

11 cabins, 40 dorm beds. $110 double in cabin; $43 dormitory bed. Mule-trip overnights (with all OR

meals and mule ride included) $498 for 1 person, $880 for 2 people. 2-night trips available Nov–

& N

Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: No phone.

IN TUSAYAN (OUTSIDE THE SOUTH ENTRANCE)

If you can’t get a reservation for a room in the park, this is the next closest place ANYON

to stay. Unfortunately, this area can be very noisy because of the many helicopters

C

and airplanes taking off from the airport. Also, hotels outside the park are very

popular with tour groups, which during the busy summer months keep many

RAND

hotels full. All of the hotels listed here are lined up along U.S. 180/Ariz. 64.

G

Best Western Premier Grand Canyon Squire Inn If you’re worried

HET

that the kids might get restless after they’ve spent 30 seconds looking at the

Grand Canyon, you might want to consider staying here. With a video-game

room and bowling alley and, in summer, an outdoor pool, this hotel offers plenty

to distract the kids. Parents will likely appreciate the large guest rooms with com-

fortable easy chairs and big windows. In the lobby, which is more Las Vegas glitz

than mountain rustic, cases are filled with old cowboy gear. Down in the base-

ment are an impressive Western sculpture, a waterfall wall, and the hotel’s bowl-

ing alley and game room.

100 Ariz. 64 (P.O. Box 130), Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. www.grandcanyonsquire.com. 800/622-6966 or 928/638-2681. Fax 928/638-2782. 250 units. $80–$260 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2

restaurants, including Coronado Room (see review, p. 266); 2 lounges; exercise room; Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Canyon Plaza Resort The setting behind the IMAX theater and surrounded

by parking lots is none too pretty, but guest rooms, most of which have a bit of

268

contemporary styling, are large and comfortable, and have balconies or patios. 6

The hotel is built around two enclosed skylit courtyards, one of which houses a

restaurant and the other a bar and whirlpool. Families will want to opt for one of

THE

the suites, which contain separate small living rooms. Unfortunately, the hotel is

G

very popular with tour groups and can often feel crowded.

RAND

406 Canyon Plaza Lane (P.O. Box 520), Grand Canyon, AZ 86023-0520. www.grandcanyonplaza.

com. 800/995-2521 or 928/638-2673. Fax 928/638-9537. 232 units. July–Oct $219 double, $239–$269 suite; Nov and Mar–June $109–$159 double, $139–$209 suite; Dec–Feb $69–$79

CANYON

double, $89–$129 suite. Children 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; 2 Jacuzzis; seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

& N

Grand Hotel With its mountain lodge–style lobby, this modern hotel lives

up to its name and is your best bet outside the park. There’s a flagstone fireplace, OR

log-beam ceiling, and fake ponderosa-pine tree trunks holding up the roof. Just

THERN

off the lobby are a dining room (with evening entertainment including from

Native American dancers to cowboy singers), a small bar that even has a few

saddles for bar stools, and an espresso stand. Guest rooms are spacious, with a

ARIZONA

few Western touches, and deluxe rooms have small balconies.

149 Ariz. 64 (P.O. Box 3319), Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. www.grandcanyongrandhotel.com.

928/638-3333. Fax 928/638-3131. 121 units. Mid-Mar to mid-Oct $159–$289 double, $289–

$409 suite; mid-Oct to mid-Mar $79–$159 double, $209–$269 suite. Children 13 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, Canyon Star Restaurant and The Grand Canyon South Rim

Saloon (see review, p. 265); lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites–Grand Canyon This hotel has

modern, well-designed, and predictably clean and comfortable guest rooms. The

hotel also includes a separate building that houses 32 large suites that are ideal

for families. These suites are among the nicest accommodations inside or outside

the park. Parents take note: In the main building, there are also “Kids’ Suites”

that have bunk beds, three TVs, and a video-game machine.

226 N. Ariz. 64, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. www.gcanyon.com. 888/473-2269 or 928/638-

3000. Fax 928/638-0123. 194 units. $79–$199 double; $89–$300 suite. Rates include full breakfast. Children 19 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2

Jacuzzis; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Red Feather Lodge With more than 200 units, this motel is often slow to fill

up, so it’s a good choice for last-minute bookings. Try to get one of the newer

rooms, which are a bit more comfortable than the older ones. In summer, the

pool here makes this place a good bet for families.

300 Ariz. 64 (P.O. Box 1460), Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. www.redfeatherlodge.com. 866/561-2425 or 928/638-2414. Fax 928/638-2707. 216 units. Mid-Mar to mid-Oct $120–$170 double; mid-Oct to mid-Mar $70–$120 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 deposit plus $25 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

ANOTHER AREA ACCOMMODATION

Cameron Trading Post Motel Located 54 miles north of Flagstaff on

U.S. 89 at the junction with the road to the east entrance of the national park, this 269

6 motel offers some of the most attractive rooms in the vicinity of the Grand Canyon and is part of one of the best trading posts in the state. The motel, adjacent to the historic Cameron Trading Post, is built around the shady oasis of the old trading

post’s terraced gardens. Guest rooms feature Southwestern-style furniture and

attractive decor. Most have balconies, and some have views of the Little Colorado

River (which, however, rarely has much water in it). Don’t miss the Navajo tacos in

the dining room; the small ones are plenty big enough for a meal.

466 U.S. 89 (P.O. Box 339), Cameron, AZ 86020. www.camerontradingpost.com. 800/338-7385 or 928/679-2231. Fax 928/679-2501. 62 units. Jan–Feb $59–$69 double, $99–$129 suite; Mar–Apr $79–$89 double, $129–$159 suite; May–Oct $99–$109 double, $149–$179 suite; Nov–

Dec $69–$79 double, $129–$159 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($15 fee). Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

The Grand Canyon South Rim CAMPGROUNDS

Inside the Park

On the South Rim, there are two campgrounds and an RV park. Mather Camp-

ground, in Grand Canyon Village, has 329 campsites. Reservations can be made up to 6 months in advance and are highly recommended for stays between March

RIZONA A and late November (reservations not accepted for other months). Contact the National Recreation Reservation Service ( 877/444-6777 or 518/885-3639;

www.recreation.gov). Between late spring and early fall, don’t even think of com-

THERN

ing up here without a reservation; you’ll just set yourself up for disappointment.

OR

If you don’t have a reservation, your next-best bet is to arrive in the morning,

when sites are being vacated. Campsites are $18 per night ($15 per night mid-

& N

Nov to Feb; reservations not accepted).

Desert View Campground, with 50 sites, is 25 miles east of Grand Can-

yon Village and open from May to mid-October only. No reservations are

ANYON

accepted. Campsites are $12 per night.

C

The Trailer Village RV park, with 75 RV sites, is in Grand Canyon Village

and charges $35 per night (for two adults) for full hookup. Reservations can be

made up to 13 months in advance by contacting Xanterra South Rim/Xanterra

RAND G Parks & Resorts, 6312 S. Fiddlers Green Circle, Ste. 600N, Greenwood Village, CO 80111 ( 888/297-2757 or 303/297-2757; www.xanterra.com or www.

HET

grandcanyonlodges.com). For same-day reservations, call 928/638-2631.

Outside the Park

Two miles south of Tusayan is the U.S. Forest Service’s Ten-X Campground.

This campground has 70 campsites, is open May through September, and

charges $10. It’s usually your best bet for finding a site late in the day.

You can also camp just about anywhere within the Kaibab National For-

est, which borders Grand Canyon National Park. Several dirt roads lead into the forest from the highway, and although you won’t find designated campsites or

toilets along these roads, you will find spots where others have obviously camped

before. This so-called dispersed camping is usually used by campers who have

been unable to find sites in campgrounds. One of the most popular roads for this

sort of camping is on the west side of the highway between Tusayan and the

park’s south entrance. For more information, contact the Tusayan Ranger Dis-

trict, Kaibab National Forest, 176 Lincoln Log Loop (P.O. Box 3088), Grand

Canyon, AZ 86023 ( 928/638-2443; www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai).

270

THE GRAND CANYON NORTH

6

RIM

THE

42 miles S of Jacob Lake; 216 miles N of Grand Canyon Village (South Rim); 354 miles N of G

Phoenix; 125 miles W of Page/Lake Powell

RAND

Although the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is only 10 miles from the South

Rim as the raven flies, it’s more than 200 miles by road, and because it is such a

C

long drive from population centers such as Phoenix and Las Vegas, the North

ANYON

Rim is much less crowded than the South Rim. Additionally, due to heavy snow-

fall, the North Rim is open only from mid-May to late October or early Novem-

ber. There are also far fewer activities or establishments on the North Rim than

& N

there are on the South Rim (no helicopter or plane rides, no IMAX theater, no

McDonald’s). For these reasons, most of the millions of people who annually visit

OR

the Grand Canyon never make it to this side—and that is exactly why, in my

THERN

opinion, the North Rim is a far superior place to visit. If Grand Canyon Village

turns out to be more human zoo than the wilderness experience you expected,

the North Rim will probably be much more to your liking, although crowds, traf-

A

fic congestion, and parking problems are not unheard of here, either.

RIZONA

The North Rim is on the Kaibab Plateau, which is more than 8,000 feet high

on average and takes its name from the Paiute word for “mountain lying down.”

The higher elevation of the North Rim means that instead of the mix of junipers

interspersed with ponderosa pines of the South Rim, you’ll see dense forests of

ponderosa pines, Douglas firs, and aspens interspersed with large meadows. Con-

The Grand Canyon North Rim

sequently, the North Rim has a much more alpine feel than the South Rim. The

elevation—1,000 feet higher than the South Rim—also means that the North

Rim gets considerably more snow in winter than the South Rim. The highway

south from Jacob Lake is not plowed in winter, when the national park is closed.

The tree-lined slopes of the North Rim.

271

6 Essentials

GETTING THERE The North Rim is at the end of Ariz. 67 (the North Rim

Pkwy.), reached from U.S. 89A. Trans Canyon ( 928/638-2820; www.

trans-canyonshuttle.com) operates a shuttle between the North Rim and

the South Rim of the Grand Canyon during the months the North Rim is

open. The trip takes 5 hours; the fare is $85 one-way and $160 round-trip

(reservations are required).

FEES The park entry fee is $25 per car and is good for 1 week. Remember not

to lose the little paper receipt that serves as your admission pass.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information before leaving home, contact Grand

Canyon National Park, P.O. Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 ( 928/

638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca).

The Grand Canyon North Rim

An Important Note

At the entrance gate, you’ll be

given a copy of The Guide, a small

Visitor facilities at the North Rim are open

newspaper with information on

only from mid-May to mid-October. From

park activities. When you arrive at

mid-October to November (or until snow

the park, stop by the North Rim

RIZONA

closes the road to the North Rim), the park is

Visitor Center, which is adjacent

A

open for day use only. The campground may

to the Grand Canyon Lodge and is

be open after mid-October, weather

open mid-May to mid-October

permitting.

daily 8am to 6pm (9am to 4pm

THERN

after October 15).

OR

Exploring Grand Canyon National Park’s

& N

North Rim

While it’s hard to beat the view from a chair on the terrace of the Grand Canyon

ANYON

Lodge, the best spots for seeing the canyon are Bright Angel Point, Point Impe-

C

rial, and Cape Royal. Bright Angel Point is at the end of a half-mile trail near the Grand Canyon Lodge, and from here you can see and hear Roaring Springs,

RAND

which is 3,600 feet below the rim and is the North Rim’s only water source. You

G

can also see Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim.

HE

At 8,803 feet, Point Imperial is the highest point on the North Rim. A

T

short section of the Colorado River can be seen far below, and off to the east the

Painted Desert is visible. The Point Imperial/Nankoweap Trail leads north from

here along the rim of the canyon. However, this area was burned in a forest fire

in 2000.

Cape Royal is the most spectacular setting on the North Rim, and along

the 23-mile road to this viewpoint you’ll find several other scenic overlooks.

Across the road from the Walhalla Overlook are the ruins of an Ancestral

Puebloan structure, and just before reaching Cape Royal, you’ll come to the

Angel’s Window Overlook, which gives you a breathtaking view of the natural

bridge that forms Angel’s Window. Once at Cape Royal, you can follow a trail

across this natural bridge to a towering promontory overlooking the canyon.

Once you’ve had your fill of simply taking in the views, you may want to get

out and stretch your legs on a trail or two. Quite a few day hikes of varying lengths and difficulty are possible. The shortest is the .5-mile paved trail to Bright Angel Point, along which you’ll have plenty of company but also plenty of breathtaking

views. If you have time for only one hike while you’re here, make it down the

272

6

THE

GRAND

CANYON

& N

OR

THERN

ARIZONA

Angel’s Window Overlook.

North Kaibab Trail. This trail is 14 miles long and leads down to Phantom

Ranch and the Colorado River. To hike the entire trail, you’ll need to have a camp-

The Grand Canyon North Rim

ing permit and be in very good physical condition (it’s almost 6,000 ft. to the can-

yon floor). For a day hike, most people make Roaring Springs their goal. This hike

is 9.5 miles round-trip, involves a descent and ascent of 3,000 feet, and takes 7 to 8 hours. You can shorten this hike considerably by turning around at the Supai

Tunnel, which is fewer than 1,500 feet below the rim at the 2-mile point. For a

relatively easy hike away from the crowds, try the Widforss Point Trail.

If you want to see the canyon from a saddle, contact Grand Canyon Trail

Rides ( 435/679-8665; www.canyonrides.com), which offers mule rides varying in length from 1 hour ($40) to a half-day ($75). One half-day ride goes

down into the canyon to the Supai Tunnel.

Outlying Attractions

NORTHEAST OF THE PARK

Between Page and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, U.S. 89A crosses the

Colorado River at Lees Ferry in Marble Canyon. The original Navajo Bridge

over the river here was replaced in 1995, and the old bridge is now open to pedes-

trians. From the bridge, which is 470 feet above the Colorado River, there’s a

beautiful view of Marble Canyon. At the west end of the bridge, you’ll find the

Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center, which is operated by the National Park Serv-

ice and is partly housed in a stone building built during the Depression by the

Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). At the east end of the bridge, which is on

the Navajo Reservation, interpretive signs tell the story of Lees Ferry from the

Native American perspective.

Lees Ferry is the starting point for raft trips through the Grand Canyon, and

for many years it was the only place to cross the Colorado River for hundreds of

miles in either direction. This stretch of the river is now legendary among anglers

273

6 for its trophy trout fishing. Lees Ferry

has a 54-site campground charging $12

per night. Reservations are not

accepted.

Lees Ferry Anglers ( 800/

962-9755 or 928/355-2261; www.

leesferry.com), 11 miles west of the

bridge at Lees Ferry, is fishing head-

quarters for the region. Not only does it

sell all manner of fly-fishing tackle and

offer advice about good spots to try your

luck, it also operates a guide service

and rents waders and boats. A guide

The Grand Canyon North Rim and boat cost $350 per day for one per-

son, and $425 per day for two people.

Continuing west, the highway

passes under the Vermilion Cliffs,

so named for their deep-red coloring

RIZONA

and now the namesake of the Vermil- The Navajo Bridge is 470 feet above the

A

ion Cliffs National Monument, Colorado River and affords a great view of

Marble Canyon.

345 E. Riverside Dr., St. George, UT

THERN

84790 ( 435/688-3200; www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/natmon/

vermilion.html). At the base of these cliffs are huge boulders balanced on narrow

OR

columns of eroded soil. The balanced rocks give the area an otherworldly appear-

& N

ance. Access to the national monument is very limited, and for the most part, a

four-wheel-drive vehicle is required. Along this unpopulated stretch of road are

three rustic lodges.

ANYON

Along this same stretch of road, you’ll find the gravel road that leads north

C

into the national monument to the trailhead for Coyote Buttes

, which

RAND G

HET

Coyote Buttes is also called the Wave for its unusual rock formations.

274

are among the most unusual rock formations in Arizona. Basically, these striated

6

conical sandstone hills are petrified sand dunes, which should give you a good

idea of why one area of the Coyote Buttes is called the Wave. The buttes are a

THE

favorite of photographers. You must have a permit ($7 per person) to visit this

G

area, and only 20 people are allowed to visit each day (with a maximum group

RAND

size of six people). Permits are issued by lottery, and applications must be submit-

ted 4 months in advance. There’s no actual trail to the buttes, so you have to navi-

gate by way of the photos and a map that you’ll be sent when you receive your

CANYON

permit. For more information, contact Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

(see above). For permit information, you can also go directly to www.blm.gov/

az/st/en/arolrsmain/paria/coyote_buttes.html.

One last detour to consider before or after visiting the national park is an

& N

area known as the East Rim. This area lies just outside the park in Kaibab

OR

National Forest and can be reached by turning east on gravel Forest Road (F.R.)

611 about 3⁄4 mile south of DeMotte Campground, which is a few miles north of

THERN

the park entrance. Follow F.R. 611 for 41⁄2 miles to the East Rim Viewpoint

(crossing F.R. 610 at about 11⁄2 miles). Another good view can be had from the

A

Marble viewpoint at the end of F.R. 219, a 4-mile-long dead-end spur road off

RIZONA

F.R. 610 about 6 miles from the junction with F.R. 611. For more information,

contact the North Kaibab Ranger District, 430 S. Main St. (P.O. Box 248),

Fredonia, AZ 86022 ( 928/643-7395; www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai), or in summer,

the Kaibab Plateau Visitor Center ( 928/643-7298), in Jacob Lake at the junction of Ariz. 67 and U.S. 89A.

The Grand Canyon North Rim

NORTHWEST OF THE PARK

To learn more about the pioneer history of this remote and sparsely populated

region of the state (known as the Arizona Strip), continue west from Jacob Lake 45

miles on Ariz. 389 to Pipe Spring National Monument, 406 N. Pipe Spring

Rd., Fredonia ( 928/643-7105; www.nps.gov/pisp), which preserves an early

Mormon ranch house that was built in the style of a fort for protection from Indi-

ans. This “fort” was also known as Winsor Castle and occasionally housed the wives

of polygamists hiding out from the law. A small museum contains exhibits on both

Mormon settlers and the Paiute Indians who have long inhabited this region.

Throughout the day, there are tours of Winsor Castle. In summer, there are living-

history demonstrations. The monument is open daily from 7am to 5pm June

through August, and from 8am to 5pm September through May (closed New Year’s

Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas). Admission is $5 per adult.

Southwest of Pipe Spring, in an area accessible only via long gravel roads,

lies the Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument. This monument

preserves a vast and rugged landscape north of the east end of Grand Canyon

National Park. The monument has no facilities and no paved roads. For more

information, contact the Bureau of Land Management’s Interagency Informa-

tion Center, 345 E. Riverside Dr., St. George, UT 84790 ( 435/688-3200;

www.nps.gov/para).

If you have an interest in Native American rock art and are searching for a

memorable and uncrowded adventure, make time to visit the remote Snake

Gulch, west of Jacob Lake. The red-and-yellow pictographs in this remote canyon date from the Basketmaker period (300 b.c.–a.d. 800) and are among the most

impressive and extensive in the state. The first pictographs are in a shallow cave

about 2 miles from the trailhead. Continue down the canyon for 2 or 3 miles to find

275

6 many more shallow caves with pictographs. To reach the Snake Gulch Trailhead,

drive 1⁄4 mile south of Jacob Lake Visitor Center on Ariz. 67, turn west on F.R. 461, and follow this road and F.R. 462 for about 9 miles. Turn south on F.R. 422 and

continue 2 miles, and then go west on F.R. 423 for 11⁄4 miles to F.R. 642. Drive

north 2 miles on F.R. 642 to the trailhead at the end of the road. This route involves about 15 miles of driving on gravel roads that are passable to regular passenger

vehicles unless there has been recent rain or snow. Alternatively, you can drive

south from Fredonia on a good paved road (F.R. 422), which turns to gravel a short

distance before the F.R. 642 junction. Carry plenty of water, especially in summer,

when it can be extremely hot here. Spring and fall are the best times to visit. For

more information, contact the North Kaibab Ranger District, 430 S. Main St.

(P.O. Box 248), Fredonia, AZ 86022 ( 928/643-7395; www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai).

The Grand Canyon North Rim Where to Eat

INSIDE THE PARK

Grand Canyon Lodge (see below) has a dining room with a splendid view. More

casual choices at the lodge include a cafeteria and a saloon that serves light meals.

RIZONA A OUTSIDE THE PARK

Your only choices for a meal outside the park are the Kaibab Lodge ( 928/638-2389; www.kaibablodge.com), just north of the entrance, and the Jacob Lake THERN

Inn ( 928/643-7232; www.jacoblake.com), 45 miles north at the junction OR

with U.S. 89A.

& N

Where to Stay

INSIDE THE PARK

Grand Canyon Lodge

Perched right on the canyon rim, this classic

ANYON C mountain lodge is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is as impressive a lodge as any you’ll find in a national park. The stone-and-log main

building has a soaring ceiling and a viewing room set up with chairs facing a wall

RAND

of glass, and on either side of this room are flagstone terraces furnished with rus-

G

tic chairs. Accommodations vary from standard motel units to rustic mountain

HET

cabins to comfortable modern cabins. My favorites are the frontier cabins, which,

although cramped and paneled with dark wood, capture the feeling of a moun-

tain retreat better than the other options. The two-bedroom pioneer cabins are

good for families. Only a few units have views of the canyon. The dining hall has

two walls of glass to take in the awesome canyon views.

Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim, AZ 86052. www.grandcanyonlodgenorth.com.

877/386-4383 or 480/337-1320. 220 units. $116–$187 double. Children 15 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-May. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; bikes; free Wi-Fi. In room: Hair dryer.

OUTSIDE THE PARK

North of the national park, the next-closest lodgings are the Kaibab Lodge and

the Jacob Lake Inn. You’ll also find lots of budget accommodations in Kanab,

Utah, 37 miles west of Jacob Lake.

Jacob Lake Inn This is one of only two lodges outside the entrance to the North

Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, and, because it is at the crossroads of Jacob

Lake, it is always a busy spot in summer. While most of the units here are old cabins 276

that tend to be cramped and old-fashioned, there are also two dozen modern motel-

6

style rooms in a contemporary mountain-rustic lodge. It is these latter rooms, which are the inn’s only rooms with TVs, telephones, and high-speed Internet access, that

THE

I recommend. Sure, they’re more expensive than the cabins, but they are the nicest

G

rooms in the area. Be sure to stock up on cookies at the inn’s bakery.

RAND

Ariz. 67/U.S. 89A, Jacob Lake, AZ 86022. www.jacoblake.com. 928/643-7232. 62 units. $89–

$137 cabin double; $119–$138 motel/lodge double (lower rates in winter). AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV (in some), Internet (in some), no CANYON

phone (in some).

EN ROUTE TO THE PARK

If you don’t have a reservation at the North Rim’s Grand Canyon Lodge, you

& N

should call the places recommended below to see if you can get a reservation. If

OR

so, you can continue on to the North Rim the next morning. Lodges anywhere

near the canyon fill up early in the day if they aren’t already fully booked with

THERN

reservations made months in advance.

Cliff Dwellers Lodge Affiliated with Lees Ferry Anglers, this motel is the

A

area’s de facto fly anglers’ headquarters and tends to stay filled up with people

RIZONA

who have come here to fish for the Colorado’s huge rainbow trout. The newer,

more expensive rooms here are standard motel units with combination tub/

showers, and are the best and most predictable rooms in the Vermilion Cliffs

area. Older rooms, in an interesting stone-walled building, have knotty pine walls

and showers only. The lodge is close to some spectacular balanced rocks, and it’s

The Grand Canyon North Rim

about 11 miles east to Lees Ferry. The views are unforgettable.

U.S. 89A milepost 547 (H.C. 67, Box 30), Marble Canyon, AZ 86036. www.cliffdwellerslodge.com.

800/962-9755 or 928/355-2261. Fax 928/355-2271. 20 units. $80–$90 double (lower rates in winter). AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Lees Ferry Lodge at Vermilion Cliffs Located at the foot of the Vermilion

Cliffs, 4 miles west of the Colorado River, Lees Ferry Lodge, built in 1929 of

native stone and rough-hewn timber beams, is a small place with simple, rustic

accommodations. However, the lodge’s restaurant serves as a sort of de facto

community center for area residents, and owner Maggie Sacher is usually on

hand to answer questions and share stories. Also, the patio seating area in front

of the lodge has fabulous views. The restaurant here has a great, old-fashioned

atmosphere. With its rustic character and friendly feel, this is my favorite place

to stay in the area. Don’t miss it.

U.S. 89A (H.C. 67, Box 1), Marble Canyon, AZ 86036. www.vermilioncliffs.com. 928/355-2231. 10 units. $74–$90 double. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, no phone.

Marble Canyon Lodge The Marble Canyon Lodge, built in the 1920s just

4 miles from Lees Ferry, is the closest lodge to the put-in spot for people rafting

the Grand Canyon, and consequently this lodge is popular primarily with rafters.

Accommodations are mostly in aging motel-style rooms that lack the modernity

of the rooms at Cliff Dwellers Lodge or the character of the rooms at the Lees

Ferry Lodge at Vermilion Cliffs. In addition to the restaurant, there’s a general

store that specializes in rafting supplies.

U.S. 89A, Marble Canyon, AZ 86036. www.marblecanyoncompany.com. 800/726-1789 or

928/355-2225. Fax 928/355-2227. 68 units. $70–$80 double $140 apartment (lower rates in winter).

277

6 Children 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette (in some), no phone.

f

CAMPGROUNDS

Just north of Grand Canyon Lodge, the North Rim Campground ( 928/638-

Flagstaf 7888), with 90 sites and no hookups for RVs, is the only campground at the North Rim. It’s open mid-May to mid-October. Reservations can be made up to

6 months in advance by calling the National Recreation Reservation Service

(www.recreation.gov; 877/444-6777 or 518/885-3639). Campsites cost $18

to $25 per night.

RIZONA

There are two nearby campgrounds outside the park in the Kaibab National

A

Forest. The DeMotte Campground (May 15–Nov 1) is the closest to the park

entrance, has 38 sites, and charges $17. Jacob Lake Campground (May 15–

Oct 1) is 30 miles north of the park entrance, has 51 sites, and also charges $17

THERN

per night. Neither campground takes reservations. You can also camp anywhere

OR

in the Kaibab National Forest as long as you’re more than 200 feet from a main

roadway or a quarter-mile from a water source. So if you can’t find a site in a

& N

campground, simply pull off the highway in the national forest and park your RV

or pitch your tent. Contact the North Kaibab Ranger District, 430 S. Main St.,

Fredonia ( 928/643-7395; www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai), for information.

ANYON

The Kaibab Camper Village ( 928/643-7804 May 14–Oct 15 or

C

928/526-0924 other months; www.kaibabcampervillage.com) is a privately

owned campground in the crossroads of Jacob Lake, 30 miles north of the park

RAND

entrance. It’s open from mid-May to mid-October and has around 100 sites.

G

Rates are $17 for tent sites, $35 for RV sites with full hookups. Make reserva-

HE

tions well in advance.

T

FLAGSTAFF

150 miles N of Phoenix; 32 miles E of Williams; 80 miles S of Grand Canyon Village

With its wide variety of accommodations and restaurants, the great outdoors at

the edge of town, three national monuments nearby, one of the state’s finest

museums, and a university that supports a lively cultural community, Flagstaff

makes an ideal base for exploring much of northern Arizona.

The San Francisco Peaks, just north of the city, are the site of the Arizona

Snowbowl ski area, one of the state’s main winter playgrounds. In summer, miles of

trails through these same mountains attract hikers and mountain bikers, and it’s

even possible to ride the chairlift for a panoramic vista that stretches 70 miles north to the Grand Canyon. Of the area’s national monuments, two preserve ancient

Indian ruins and the third is an otherworldly landscape of volcanic cinder cones.

It was as a railroad town that Flagstaff made its fortunes, and the historic

downtown offers a glimpse of the days when the city’s fortunes rode the rails. The

railroad still runs right through the middle of the city, paralleled by historic Route 66, but luckily for visitors in need of a good night’s rest after a long day exploring the region, the trains no longer blow their horns at every road crossing.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Flagstaff is on I-40, one of the main east-west interstates in the

United States. I-17 starts here and heads south to Phoenix. Ariz. 89A con-

nects Flagstaff to Sedona by way of Oak Creek Canyon. U.S. 180 connects

278

6

THE

GRAND

CANYON

& N

OR

THERN

ARIZONA

The Historic Hotel Monte Vista in Flagstaff.

Flagstaff with the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, and U.S. 89 connects

the city with Page.

Flagstaf

Flagstaff Pulliam Airport, 3 miles south of Flagstaff off I-17, is served

by US Airways ( 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) from Phoenix.

Amtrak ( 800/872-7245) offers service to Flagstaff from Chicago and

f

Los Angeles. The train station is at 1 E. Route 66.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Flagstaff Visitor Center, 1 E. Route 66

( 800/379-0065 or 928/774-9541; www.flagstaffarizona.org). The visitor

center is open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 5pm and Sunday from 9am

to 4pm.

ORIENTATION Downtown Flagstaff is just north of I-40. Milton Road, which at

its southern end becomes I-17 to Phoenix, leads past Northern Arizona Uni-

versity on its way into downtown and becomes Route 66, which runs paral-

lel to the railroad tracks. San Francisco Street is downtown’s main street.

Humphreys Street leads north out of town toward the San Francisco Peaks

and the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

GETTING AROUND Car rentals are available from Avis ( 800/331-1212,

928/774-8421 at the airport, or 928/714-0713 downtown), Budget ( 800/

527-0700, 928/779-5235 at the airport, or 928/213-0156 downtown),

Enterprise ( 800/261-7331, 928/774-0010 at the airport, or 928/526-

1377 downtown), Hertz ( 800/654-3131, 928/774-4452 at the airport,

or 928/226-0120 downtown), and National ( 877/222-9058 or

928/779-1975).

Call A Friendly Cab ( 800/853-4445 or 928/774-4444; www.

afriendlycab.com) if you need a taxi. Mountain Line Transit ( 928/779-

6624; www.mountainline.az.gov) provides public bus transit around the

city; the fare is $1.25.

279

6 Exploring Flagstaff

The Arboretum at Flagstaff PARK/GARDEN Covering 200 acres, this

f

arboretum, the highest-elevation research garden in the U.S., focuses on plants

of the high desert, coniferous forests, and alpine tundra, all of which are environ-

ments found in the vicinity of Flagstaff. On the grounds are a butterfly garden,

Flagstaf an herb garden, a shade garden, and a passive solar greenhouse. There are guided tours daily at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm. The arboretum also has regularly scheduled

wildlife presentations.

4001 S. Woody Mountain Rd. www.thearb.org. 928/774-1442. Admission $7 adults, $6 seniors, $3 children 3–17, free for children 2 and under. Apr–Oct daily 9am–5pm. Closed Nov–Mar.

RIZONA A Arizona Historical Society Pioneer Museum MUSEUM This small his-

torical museum is housed in a stone building that was constructed in 1908 as a hos-

pital for the indigent (more commonly called a poor farm). Today, the old hospital

THERN

contains not only old medical equipment but a historical collection from northern

OR

Arizona’s pioneer days, with an emphasis on ranching, logging, and trapping. How-

ever, for many visitors the museum’s Route 66 exhibit will be the most interesting.

& N

2340 N. Fort Valley Rd. www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org. 928/774-6272. Admission $5. Free for children 14 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed major holidays.

ANYON

Lowell Observatory HISTORIC

C

SITE This historic observatory is

located atop aptly named Mars Hill

RAND

and is one of the oldest astronomical

G

observatories in the Southwest.

Founded in 1894 by Percival Lowell,

HET

the observatory has played important

roles in contemporary astronomy.

Among the work carried out here was

Lowell’s study of the planet Mars and

the calculations that led him to predict

the existence of Pluto. It wasn’t until

13 years after Lowell’s death that Pluto

was finally discovered almost exactly

where he had predicted it would be.

The facility consists of outdoor

displays, several observatories, and a

visitor center with numerous fun and

educational exhibits. During the day,

there are guided tours every hour

between 1 and 4pm, and between

12:15 and 12:50pm, you can look at The 24-inch telescope at Lowell Observatory.

the sun through a small telescope.

However, the main attraction is the chance to observe the stars and planets

through the observatory’s 24-inch telescope. Keep in mind that the telescope

domes are not heated, so if you come up to stargaze, be sure to dress appropri-

ately. There are no programs on cloudy nights.

1400 W. Mars Hill Rd. www.lowell.edu. 928/774-3358. Admission $11 adults, $9 seniors and students, $4 children 5–17. June–Aug daily 9am–10pm; Mar–May and Sept–Oct Sun, Tues, and Thurs 9am–5pm, Mon, Wed, and Fri–Sat 9am–9:30pm; Nov–Feb Sun, Tues, and Thurs noon–

5pm, Mon, Wed, and Fri–Sat noon–9:30pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Dec 24–25.

280

To Grand Canyon South Entrance

and Arizona Snowbowl

Museum of

Flagstaff

Northern

Arizona Historical Society

Arizona

Pioneer Museum

BUFFALO

180

Flagstaff

PARK

ARIZONA

Fort Valley

Fir Ave.

Phoenix

Tu

Tucson

rquo

Juniper Ave. ise D

Rd.

r.

Forest Ave.

Columbus

THORPE

PARK

Ave.

Elm Ave.

Lowell

Cherry Ave.

Dale Ave.

Observatory

Birch Ave.

Aspen Ave.

Humphreys St.

S

Beaver St.

w

Leroux St.

itz

DOWNTOWN

e

San Francisco St.

r

Agassiz St.

C

Amtrak

an

Station &

yon

Bus Terminal

Visitor Center

E. Route 66 Dr.

To

B

Milton Rd.

Beaver St.

utle

Grand Canyon

Riordan

Leroux St.

r A

Humphreys St.

ve. East Entrance &

Northern

Wupatki & Sunset Crater

Volcano National Monuments

W. Route 66

Rd.

Arizona University

.tS sw

Riordan

o

Ranch St.

To Walnut Canyon

d

Yale St.

a University Ave.

Knoles Dr.

National Monument,

e

Winslow,

M

Riordan Mansion

Meteor Crater &

State Historic Park

t

Petrified Forest

s e r

San Francisco St.

o F

Milton Rd.

McConnell Dr.

40

To 40

Williams &

Beulah Blvd.

Grand Canyon

West

To

17

0

1/2 mi

Ariz.

Phoenix 89A

To Mormon Lake

0

1/2 km

281

6

Grand Falls: The Chocolate Niagara

Calm down all you chocoholics. Grand

miles of the route are on a washboard

f

Falls, 33 miles east of Flagstaff, only

gravel road that can be impassable if it

looks like liquid chocolate; it isn’t a real

has rained recently.

chocolate waterfall. This said, it’s still

To find Grand Falls, drive north from

Flagstaf worth the drive out to see it. At 185 feet Flagstaff on U.S. 89A, and turn east on tall, these falls on the Little Colorado

Townsend-Winona Road. Drive 8 miles to

River are higher than Niagara Falls,

Leupp Road, and turn left. Follow this

although the falls do not carry nearly the

road 14 miles to Indian Route 70, which is

RIZONA

volume of water that Niagara does. In

immediately after the sign marking the

A

fact, for most of the year, there’s no

boundary of the Navajo Reservation (you

water at all in Grand Falls. These falls run

may see a sign for grand falls bible

only during the spring snowmelt season

church). Turn north (left) onto this gravel

THERN

(in years when there has been any snow)

road and drive 10 miles north to the Little

OR

and after summer monsoons. Conse-

Colorado River. Now turn around and go

quently, to see these falls, you need to

back 1⁄4 mile to the unmarked rough dirt

& N

have good timing. You also need a high-

track on your right. The falls are a few

clearance vehicle, because the last 10

hundred yards down this dirt road.

ANYON C Museum of Northern Arizona MUSEUM This small but surpris-

ingly thorough museum is the ideal first stop on an exploration of northern Ari-

RAND

zona. You’ll learn, through modern exhibits, about the archaeology, ethnology,

G

geology, biology, and fine arts of the region. The cornerstone of the museum is an

HET

exhibit that explores life on the Colorado Plateau from 15,000 b.c. to the present.

Among the other displays are a life-size kiva (ceremonial room) and a small but

interesting collection of kachinas. The large gift shop is full of contemporary

Native American arts and crafts, and during the summer special exhibits and

sales focus on Hopi and Navajo arts and crafts.

The museum building itself is made of native stone and incorporates a

courtyard featuring vegetation from the six life zones of northern Arizona. Out-

side is a short self-guided nature trail that leads through a narrow canyon.

3101 N. Fort Valley Rd. (3 miles north of downtown Flagstaff on U.S. 180). www.musnaz.org.

928/774-5213. Admission $10 adults, $9 seniors, $7 students, $6 youths 10–17. Daily 9am–

5pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Riordan Mansion State Historic Park HISTORIC SITE Built in 1904

for local timber barons Michael and Timothy Riordan, this 13,000-square-foot

mansion—Arizona’s finest example of an Arts and Crafts–era building—is actu-

ally two houses connected by a large central hall. Each brother and his family

occupied half of the house (they had the rooflines constructed differently so that

visitors could tell the two sides apart). Although the mansion appears to be built

of logs, it’s actually just faced with log slabs. Inside, mission-style furnishings and touches of Art Nouveau styling make it clear that this family was keeping up with

the times. The west wing of the mansion holds displays on, among other things,

Stickley furniture. Guided tours provide a glimpse into the lives of two of Flag-

staff’s most influential pioneers.

282

6

THE

GRAND

CANYON

& N

OR

THERN

ARIZONA

Riordan Mansion.

409 W. Riordan Rd. (off Milton Rd./Ariz. 89A, just north of the junction of I-40 and I-17). www.

azstateparks.com.

928/779-4395. Admission $7 adults, $3 children 7–13. Thurs–Mon

10:30am–5pm. Guided tours on the hour. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Flagstaf

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument NATURAL ATTRACTION

Dotting the landscape northeast of Flagstaff are more than 400 volcanic craters, of

f

which Sunset Crater Volcano is the youngest. Taking its name from the colors of the

cinders near its summit, Sunset Crater Volcano stands 1,000 feet tall and began

forming around 1040. Over a period of more than 150 years, the volcano erupted

repeatedly (creating the red-and-yellow cinder cone seen today) and eventually cov-

ered an area of 800 square miles with ash, lava, and cinders. A 1-mile interpretive

trail passes through a desolate landscape of lava flows, cinders, and ash as it skirts the base of this volcano. If you want to climb to the top of a cinder cone, take the 1-mile Lenox Crater Trail. In the visitor center

(at the west entrance to the national

monument), you can learn more about

the formation of Sunset Crater and

about volcanoes in general. Near the visi-

tor center is the Coconino National For-

est’s 44-site Bonito Campground, which

is open from late May to mid-October

and charges $18 for a campsite.

14 miles north of Flagstaff off U.S. 89. www.

nps.gov/sucr.

928/526-0502. Admission

$5 adults, free for children 15 and under

(admission also valid for Wupatki National

Monument). Daily sunrise–sunset; visitor cen-

ter daily May–Oct 8am–5pm, Nov–Apr 9am–

Sunset Crater Volcano is the youngest of

5pm. Visitor Center closed Christmas.

Flagstaff’s 400 volcanic craters.

283

6 Walnut Canyon National Monument RUINS The remains of 300

small 13th-century Sinagua cliff dwellings can be seen in the undercut layers of

f

limestone in this 400-foot-deep wooded canyon east of Flagstaff. These cliff

dwellings, though not nearly as impressive as the ruins at Montezuma Castle

National Monument (50 miles to the south) or Wupatki National Monument (20

Flagstaf miles to the north), are worth a visit for the chance to poke around inside the well-preserved rooms, which were well protected from the elements (and from

enemies). The Sinagua were the same people who built and then abandoned the

stone pueblos in Wupatki National Monument, and it is theorized that when the

land to the north lost its fertility, the Sinagua began migrating southward, settling RIZONA

for 150 years in Walnut Canyon.

A

A self-guided trail leads from the visitor center on the canyon rim down 185

feet to a section of the canyon wall where 25 cliff dwellings can be viewed up close (some can even be entered). Bring binoculars so that you can scan the canyon walls

THERN

for other cliff dwellings. From Memorial Day to Labor Day twice a month, on the

OR

first and last Saturday, there are guided hikes into the monument’s backcountry (reservations required). There’s also a picnic area near the visitor center.

& N

71⁄2 miles east of Flagstaff on Walnut Canyon Rd. (take exit 204 off I-40). www.nps.gov/waca.

928/526-3367. Admission $5 adults, free for children 15 and under. May–Oct daily 8am–

5pm; Nov–Apr daily 9am–5pm. Visitor center closed Christmas.

ANYON C Wupatki National Monument RUINS The landscape northeast of

Flagstaff is desolate and windswept, a sparsely populated region carpeted with

RAND

volcanic ash deposited in the 11th century. It may come as a surprise, then, to

G

learn that this area contains hundreds of archaeological sites. The most impres-

HE

sive are pueblo ruins left by the Sinagua (the name means “without water” in

T

Spanish), who inhabited this area from around 1100 until around 1250. Accord-

ing to contemporary Hopis and Zunis, the people who lived in this area were their

ancestors, and it is easy to see the similarity between the stone-walled pueblos

here and the traditional homes on the nearby Hopi Reservation. Today the ruins

of several ancient villages can be seen in this national monument.

The largest of the pueblos is Wupatki Ruin, in the southeastern part of the

monument. Here the Sinagua built a sprawling three-story pueblo containing

nearly 100 rooms. They also constructed what is believed to be a ball court,

which, although quite different in design from the courts of the Aztec and Maya,

suggests that a similar game may have been played in this region. Another circu-

lar stone structure just below the main ruins may have been an amphitheater or

a dance plaza.

The most unusual feature of Wupatki, however, is a natural phenomenon: a

blowhole, which may have been the reason this pueblo was constructed here. A

network of small underground tunnels and chambers acts as a giant barometer,

blowing air through the blowhole when the underground air is under greater

pressure than the outside air. On hot days, cool air rushes out of the blowhole

with amazing force.

Several other ruins within the national monument are easily accessible by

car. They include Nalakihu, Citadel, and Lomaki, which are the closest to U.S.

89, and Wukoki, near Wupatki. Wukoki Ruin, built atop a huge sandstone boul-

der, is particularly picturesque. The visitor center is adjacent to the Wupatki

ruins and contains interesting exhibits on the Sinagua and Ancestral Puebloan

284

Join an Archaeological Dig

6

Elden Pueblo, on the north side of Flag-

interested. Each summer, the Arizona

T

staff on U.S. 89, is a small archaeological

Archaeological Society (www.azarchsoc.

HE

site that is open to the public free of

org) operates the Elden Pueblo Field

G

charge. Although these Sinagua ruins are

School ( 928/527-3452). Field schools

RAND

not much to look at, you can help out

cost $100 to $150 per week (plus AAS

with the excavation of the site if you’re

membership dues).

CANYON

people who once inhabited the region. January through March, there are reserva-

& N

tion-only guided hikes on the first and third Saturdays of the month.

33 miles north of Flagstaff off U.S. 89. www.nps.gov/wupa. 928/679-2365. Admission $5

OR

adults, free for children 15 and under (admission also valid for Sunset Crater Volcano National THERN

Monument). Daily sunrise–sunset; visitor center daily 9am–5pm (closed Christmas).

Outdoor Activities

ARIZONA

Flagstaff is northern Arizona’s center for outdoor activities. Chief among them is

skiing at Arizona Snowbowl ( 928/779-1951; www.arizonasnowbowl.com), on the slopes of Mount Agassiz, from which you can see all the way to the North

Rim of the Grand Canyon. There are four chairlifts, 32 runs, 2,300 vertical feet

of slopes, ski rentals, and a children’s ski program. With an excellent mix of

Flagstaf

beginner, intermediate, and advanced slopes, and as the ski area that’s most eas-

ily accessed from Phoenix, Snowbowl sees a lot of weekend traffic from the

snow-starved denizens of the desert. Conditions are, however, very unreliable,

f

and the ski area can be shut down for weeks on end due to lack of snow. All-day

lift tickets are $53 to $59 for adults, $29 for seniors and children 8 to 12, and

free for children 7 and under and seniors 70 and over. In summer, you can ride

a chairlift almost to the summit of

Mount Agassiz and enjoy the expansive

views across seemingly all of northern

Arizona. The round-trip lift-ticket price

Skiers and snowboarders spend winters at

Humphreys Trail climbs more than 3,300 feet

Arizona Snowbowl.

in 4.5 miles.

285

6 is $12 for adults, $8 for seniors and children 8 to 12. To get here, take U.S. 180

N. from Flagstaff for 7 miles and turn right onto Snow Bowl Road.

f

When no snow is on the ground, there are plenty of trails for hiking amid

the San Francisco Peaks, and many national forest trails are open to mountain

bikes. Late September, when the aspens have turned a brilliant golden yellow, is

Flagstaf one of the best times of year for a hike in Flagstaff’s mountains. If you’ve got the stamina, do the Humphreys Trail, which climbs more than 3,300 feet in 4.5

miles. Needless to say, the views from the 12,633-foot summit are stupendous.

After all, this is the highest point in Arizona. To reach the trailhead, take U.S. 180

N. out of Flagstaff for 7 miles, turn right on Snow Bowl Road, and continue to

RIZONA

the parking area by the ski lodge. This is my favorite Flagstaff area hike and is

A

nearly as awe-inspiring in its own way as hiking down into the Grand Canyon.

If you’d like a short hike with a big payoff, hike to Red Mountain. This

hike is only about 2.5 miles round-trip, but leads to a fascinating red-walled cin-

THERN

der cone that long ago collapsed to reveal its strange interior walls. To find the

OR

trailhead, drive north from Flagstaff toward the Grand Canyon on U.S. 180. At

milepost 247, watch for a forest road leading west for about a quarter-mile to the

& N

trailhead parking area.

For information on other hikes in the Coconino National Forest, contact the

Flagstaff Ranger District, 5075 N. U.S. 89, Flagstaff 86004 ( 928/526-

ANYON

0866; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino).

C

Where to Eat

RAND

If you’re headed north to the Grand Canyon and need a good espresso to get you

G

there, stop at Late for the Train Espresso, 1800 N. Fort Valley Rd. ( 928/

HET

773-0308; www.lateforthetrain.com), on U.S. 180 as you drive north out of

town. Just watch for the old gas station. There’s another location downtown at

107 N. San Francisco St. ( 928/779-5975). On cold mornings, though, only

one Flagstaff coffee drink will do, and that’s the “Hot Monte” at the Hotel Monte

Vista’s Rendezvous Coffee House/Martini Bar, 100 N. San Francisco St.

( 928/779-6971; www.hotelmontevista.com). It’s made with espresso, choco-

late, milk, cinnamon, and cayenne. If you need to stock up on picnic supplies, try

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace, 320 S. Cambridge Lane at Butler Ave-

nue ( 928/774-5747; http://newfrontiersmarket.com/locations/flagstaff-az).

For good old-fashioned pies, head east of downtown Flagstaff to Miz Zip’s, 2924

E. Route 66 ( 928/526-0104).

EXPENSIVE

Brix Restaurant and Wine Bar

NEW AMERICAN Although it’s a bit

hard to find (tucked into a corner of an old brick carriage house), Brix, Flagstaff’s most contemporary restaurant, is well worth searching out. The menu relies on

fresh, seasonal ingredients, so it changes regularly. However, any time of year, you’ll find a great selection of artisanal cheeses, which make a good starter to a meal here.

The chef’s creativity shines through in such dishes as fish with sweet-potato gnoc-

chi with poached pears and sage-brown butter, and duck confit with apricots and

fennel-parsley salad. There’s an excellent wine list to accompany the food.

413 N. San Francisco St. www.brixflagstaff.com. 928/213-1021. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $23–$34. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

286

Cottage Place Restaurant

CONTINENTAL/NEW AMERICAN On

6

the south side of the railroad tracks in a neighborhood mostly frequented by col-

lege students, Cottage Place is just what its name implies—an unpretentious

THE

little cottage. But despite the casual appearance, dining here is a formal affair.

G

The menu, which tends toward the rich side, is primarily Continental, with a few

RAND

Southwestern influences as well. The house specialties are chateaubriand and

rack of lamb (both served for two), and there are always a couple of choices for

vegetarians as well. The appetizer sampler, with herb-stuffed mushrooms, grilled

CANYON

shrimp, and crab cake, is a winner. There’s a long, award-winning wine list, and

between 5 and 6pm, there are twilight dinners for $16 to $21.

126 W. Cottage Ave. www.cottageplace.com. 928/774-8431. Reservations recommended.

& N

Main courses $21–$39; tasting menu $55 ($83 with wine). AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 5–9:30pm.

Josephine’s Modern American Bistro

REGIONAL AMERICAN

OR

Housed in a restored Craftsman bungalow with a beautiful stone fireplace and a

THERN

wide front porch for summer dining, this restaurant combines a historical setting

with excellent food that draws on a wide range of influences. The pork osso buco with green-chili risotto is a real winner. At lunch, try the crab-cake po’ boy sand-ARIZONA

wich. There’s a good selection of reasonably priced wines also.

503 N. Humphreys St. www.josephinesrestaurant.com. 928/779-3400. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9.50–$13 lunch, $19–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–

2:30pm and 5–9pm; Sat 9am–2pm and 5–9pm; Sun 9am–2pm.

Flagstaf

MODERATE

Criollo LATIN AMERICAN Utilizing locally grown and sustainably pro-

duced ingredients as much as possible, this casually hip restaurant in downtown

f

Flagstaff serves flavorful food from a range of Latin American countries. The fish

tacos are excellent, and for a starter, I like the Criollo tamale, which is made with roasted corn, green chilies, and Mexican cheese. There are lots of small plates,

in case you just want a light meal, and the bar whips up some very interesting

cocktails. Best of all, this place is open fairly late on the weekends (for Flagstaff), which means you won’t have to go without dinner if you spent longer than you

planned at the Grand Canyon.

16 N. San Francisco St. www.criollolatinkitchen.com. 928/774-0541. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$17 lunch, $10–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri 11am–10:30pm; Sat 9am–2pm and 4–10:30pm; Sun 9am–2pm.

Pasto ITALIAN Located in downtown Flagstaff, Pasto has a lively urban

feel and serves some of the best food in town. It is always reliable, but be aware

that it can get boisterous on the weekends. Casual yet sophisticated, Pasto is less

formal than Brix, Cottage Place, or Josephine’s, so if you don’t feel like getting

dressed up after a day at the canyon, come here. As the restaurant’s name implies,

the menu includes a good assortment of pastas; however, entrees here are so crea-

tive that I always start with a small order of pasta so I’ll have room for the likes of lamb ravioli made with porcini mushroom pasta and a balsamic-butter sauce or

grilled salmon over rustic polenta.

19 E. Aspen St. www.pastorestaurant.com. 928/779-1937. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9–$12 lunch, $17–$25 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm and 5–9pm.

287

6 INEXPENSIVE

Beaver Street Brewery AMERICAN/PIZZA This big microbrewery,

f

cafe, and billiards parlor on the south side of the railroad tracks serves up several good brews, and it also does great pizzas and salads. The Beaver Street pizza,

made with roasted-garlic pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil, and goat cheese,

Flagstaf is particularly tasty. Among the large, filling salads, my favorite is the Mongolian beef, which is served on a bed of greens with sesame-ginger dressing. This place

stays packed with college students, but a good pint of ale helps any wait pass

quickly, especially if you can grab a seat by the woodstove. The brewery also oper-

ates the adjacent Beaver Street Brews & Cues, 3 S. Beaver St., which has RIZONA

pool tables and a vintage bar.

A

11 S. Beaver St. www.beaverstreetbrewery.com. 928/779-0079. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $7–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight.

THERN

Diablo Burger AMERICAN If ever there were the quintessential hole in

OR

the wall, this is it. With little more than a small sign on what looks to be an old

silo but is actually a parking-garage support column, Diablo Burger may be hard

& N

to find, but it is definitely worth the search. Burgers are made from locally raised natural beef and, as often as possible, produce is local. The burgers are served on

English muffins and come with some of the best fries in Arizona. I’m a fan of the

ANYON

Blake burger, which is made with a roasted green chilies, but the Vitamin B, with

C

bacon, blue cheese, and beets, is also pretty good. You’ll find Diablo Burger on

the plaza in downtown Flagstaff.

RAND

120 N. Leroux St. www.diabloburger.com. 928/774-3274. Reservations not accepted. Main G

courses $8.75–$11. No credit cards. Mon–Wed 11am–9pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–10pm.

HET

Galaxy Diner AMERICAN If you happen to be on a Route 66 pilgrimage or

just like old 1950s style diners, then don’t leave Flagstaff without grabbing a

burger at the Galaxy. This place is a totally retro, stainless-steel diner with photos of 1950s movie stars covering all the dining room walls. The menu includes

plenty of burgers, but lots of blue-plate specials, too. You can also get a good variety of classic soda-fountain drinks, and breakfast is served all day. On Friday

nights, old hot rods gather in the parking lot here, and on Saturday nights, there’s swing dancing from 7:30 to 10pm. Cool, daddy-o!

931 W Route 66. 928/774-2466. Main courses $7–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6am–

9pm; Fri–Sat 6am–10pm (from 7am daily in winter).

Himalayan Grill INDIAN/TIBETAN The food of India and Tibet are featured

at this restaurant in a little strip mall south of downtown Flagstaff. While the

Indian dishes here are quite good, I like to order the less familiar Tibetan dishes.

The momos are similar to Japanese gyoza or Chinese potstickers. Here you can get them stuffed with either meat or vegetables. Follow your momos with a bowl of thupka (a hearty noodle soup) or chau chau (pan-fried noodles). Both of these latter dishes can be ordered with chicken or lamb. On Sundays, brunch is served.

801 S. Milton Ave. www.himalayangrill.com. 928/213-5444. Main courses $10–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2:30pm and 5–10pm.

Karma Sushi Bar & Grill JAPANESE Located on historic Route 66 directly

across from the Flagstaff Visitor Center, this stylish sushi place has a fun Asian

rustic feel. The clientele tends to be college students, not tourists, which is why I like to eat here. Of course, since this place specializes in sushi and small plates, it’s 288

also a great place for a light meal, especially after one too many cowboy-size steaks.

6

I’m a sucker for fancy sushi rolls, and here I like to get the caterpillar (freshwater eel, cucumber, artificial crab, and avocado slices) and the black cat roll (tempura

THE

asparagus, spicy lobster, mango, and avocado with black sesame seeds).

G

6 E. Route 66. www.karmaflagstaff.com. 928/774-6100. Reservations recommended. Sushi RAND

$3.50–$13; main courses $8–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–9pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–

10pm; Sun 4:30–10pm.

C

Macy’s European Coffee House & Bakery COFFEEHOUSE/BAKERY

ANYON

Good espresso and baked goodies draw people in here the first time, but there

are also decent vegetarian pasta dishes, soups, salads, and other college-town

standbys. This is Flagstaff’s counterculture hangout, attracting both students

& N

and professors. For the true Macy’s experience, order one of the huge lattes and

a scone or other pastry.

OR

14 S. Beaver St. www.macyscoffee.net. 928/774-2243. Meals $4.75–$7.75. MC, V. Daily THERN

6am–8pm.

Shopping

ARIZONA

Downtown Flagstaff—along Route 66, San Francisco Street, Aspen Avenue, and

Birch Avenue—is the city’s historic district. These old brick buildings are now filled with shops selling Native American crafts, works by local artists and artisans, Route 66 souvenirs, and various other Arizona mementos such as rocks,

minerals, and crystals. Puchteca Indian Art, 20 N. San Francisco St. ( 928/

Flagstaf

774-2414), is also worth a visit for its interesting Native American jewelry and pottery. Fans of old books should be sure to check out Starrlight Books, 15 N.

Leroux St. ( 928/774-6813), which is full of first editions and other hard-

f

bound books. There’s a good selection of Southwest titles. The Artists Gallery,

17 N. San Francisco St. ( 928/773-0958; www.flagstaffartistsgallery.com),

which is full of art by local artists, is also worth a visit. The historic district is worth a walk-through even if you aren’t shopping. If you need any outdoors gear,

head to Babbitt’s Backcountry Outfitters, 12 E. Aspen Ave. ( 928/774-

4775; www.babbittsbackcountry.com).

Entertainment & Nightlife

For events taking place during your visit, check Flagstaff Live (www.flaglive.com), a free weekly newspaper available at shops and restaurants downtown. The university has many musical and theatrical groups that perform throughout most of

the year, and several clubs around town book a variety of live acts.

The Orpheum Theater, 15 W. Aspen Ave. ( 928/556-1580; www.

orpheumpresents.com), in downtown Flagstaff, gets the best of touring rock,

folk, and country acts, so be sure to check the schedule while you’re in town. In

summer, also check out what’s showing at Movies on the Square ( 928/853-

4292; www.heritagesquaretrust.org), a free outdoor movie series shown at downtown Flagstaff’s Heritage Square on Friday nights. There’s live entertainment

before the movies, as well as on Thursday nights and Saturday and Sunday after-

noons. In addition, during the warmer months, regular outdoor concerts are per-

formed at the Pepsi Amphitheater at Fort Tuthill Park ( 928/214-6485;

www.pinemountainamphitheater.com), which is located at exit 337 off I-17

south of Flagstaff.

289

6

Flagstaff has five good brewpubs. My favorite are the Beaver Street Brew-

ery, 11 S. Beaver St. ( 928/779-0079; www.beaverstreetbrewery.com), f

described under “Where to Eat,” above and the affiliated Lumberyard Brewing

Company, 5 S. San Francisco St. ( 928/779-2739; www.lumberyardbrewing company.com). Also try Flagstaff Brewing Co., 16 E. Route 66 ( 928/773-Flagstaf 1442; www.flagbrew.com), and the tap room at Mother Road Brewing Co., 7

S. Mike’s Pike ( 928/774-9139; www.motherroadbeer.com), which is on the

south side of the train tracks a few blocks west of Beaver Street Brewery. If wine

is more to your taste, climb the stairs to the Wine Loft , 17 N. San Francisco St. ( 928/773-9463), a wine bar located above the Artists Gallery in down-RIZONA

town Flagstaff. If you’re like me, you’ll wish you had a place like this in your town.

A

Local musicians play live several nights per week. I wouldn’t think of leaving

Flagstaff without hanging out here at least one evening. Also check out Cuveé

928, 6 E. Aspen Ave., Ste. 110 ( 928/214-9463; www.cuvee928winebar.

THERN

com), a wine bar/bar right on Heritage Square in downtown Flagstaff.

OR

For a livelier scene, check out the Museum Club, 3404 E. Route 66

( 928/526-9434; www.themuseumclub.com), a Flagstaff institution and one

& N

of America’s classic roadhouses. Built in the early 1900s and often called the Zoo,

this cavernous log saloon is filled with deer antlers, stuffed animals, and trophy

heads. There’s live music (mostly country) on weekends.

ANYON

Other places around town with live music include Charly’s Pub, 23 N.

C

Leroux St. ( 928/779-1919; www.weatherfordhotel.com), inside the historic

Weatherford Hotel. This place has long been a popular student hangout featur-

RAND

ing live blues and rock.

G

HE

Where to Stay

T

EXPENSIVE

Shooting Star Inn Although this rustic inn has only three simply fur-

nished rooms and is a bit out of the way (about midway between Flagstaff and

the Grand Canyon), it is so unusual I think you should know about it. It’s defi-

nitely not for everyone, but a stay here just might be the most memorable part of

a visit to northern Arizona. The modern log inn is an off-the-grid home, which

means that electricity here is produced by an array of photovoltaic panels. The

Shooting Star is operated by professional photographer Tom Taylor, whose real

passion is astronomy; as part of your stay, you’ll get to study the stars and planets through some of Taylor’s many telescopes. Because the inn is so far from town,

you may want to arrange to have Taylor cook dinners for you.

27948 N. Shooting Star Lane, Flagstaff, AZ 86001. www.shootingstarinn.com. 928/606-8070.

3 units. $225 double. Rates include full breakfast and astronomy program. AE, DISC, MC, V.

In room: No phone, free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

England House Bed & Breakfast

This B&B, just 3 blocks from Flag-

staff’s historic downtown, is a beautiful two-story Victorian red-sandstone house

built in 1902. This old house was lovingly restored by owners Richard and Laurel

Dunn, who are devoted to details. Consequently, the England House has a

delightful period authenticity. The three large guest rooms are on the second

floor and are furnished with 1870s French antiques. There’s also a small guest

room, called the Pantry (though it isn’t really that small), on the ground floor. One 290

room has a Tempur-Pedic mattress, while another has a feather bed. Breakfasts 6

are served in a bright sunroom just off the kitchen.

614 W. Santa Fe Ave., Flagstaff, AZ 86001. www.englandhousebandb.com. 877/214-7350 or THE

928/214-7350. 4 units. $129–$199 double. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. No children G

11 or under. Amenities: Concierge. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

RAND

The Inn at 410

Situated only 2 blocks from historic downtown Flagstaff,

this restored 1894 Craftsman home is one of the best B&Bs in Arizona, providing

C

convenience, pleasant surroundings, comfortable rooms, and delicious break-

ANYON

fasts. Guests can lounge and enjoy afternoon tea on the front porch, in the com-

fortable dining room, or in the garden. Each guest room features a distinctive

theme; my favorites are Canyon Memories and the Southwest Suite, which con-

& N

jure up the inn’s Western heritage. All rooms have fireplaces, and three have two-

person whirlpool tubs. Some of the guest rooms are in an adjacent building that

OR

overlooks the gardens. Brix, one of Flagstaff’s best restaurants, is right next door.

THERN

410 N. Leroux St., Flagstaff, AZ 86001. www.inn410.com. 800/774-2008 or 928/774-0088. Fax 928/774-6354. 9 units. Mar–Oct $165–$215 double; Nov–Feb $150–$200 double. 2-night minimum on weekends Apr–Oct. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon refreshments. MC, V. No ARIZONA

children 8 or under. Amenities: Concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club.

In room: A/C, TV/DVD/VCR, fridge, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Little America Hotel Set on 500 acres of pine forest and with a trail

that winds for 2 miles through the property, this hotel on the east side of Flagstaff might seem at first to be little more than a giant truck stop. However, on closer

Flagstaf

inspection, you’ll find that behind the truck stop stands a surprisingly luxurious

and economical hotel set beneath shady pines. The decor is dated but fun, with

f

a sort of French Provincial style predominating. Rooms vary in size, but all have

small private balconies.

2515 E. Butler Ave., Flagstaff, AZ 86004. www.littleamerica.com/flagstaff. 800/352-4386 or 928/779-7900. Fax 928/779-7983. 247 units. $99–$159 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Take exit 198 off I-40. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Radisson Woodlands Hotel Flagstaff With its elegant marble-floored

lobby, the Woodlands Hotel is easily the most upscale lodging in Flagstaff. A white

baby grand, a crystal chandelier, traditional European furnishings, and contempo-

rary sculpture all add to the unexpected luxury in the public spaces, as do intri-

cately carved pieces of furniture and architectural details from different Asian

countries. Guest rooms are quite comfortable and have Sleep Number® beds.

1175 W. Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86001. www.radisson.com/flagstaffaz. 800/395-7046 or 928/773-8888. Fax 928/773-0597. 183 units. $99–$189 double; $129–$209 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: 2

restaurants; lounge; free airport transfers; concierge; exercise room; indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis; seasonal outdoor pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

Historic Hotel Monte Vista This hotel is definitely not for everyone.

Although it is historic, it is also a bit run-down and appeals primarily to young

travelers who appreciate the low rates and the nightclub just off the lobby. So

291

6 why stay here? In its day, the Monte Vista hosted the likes of Clark Gable, John

Wayne, Carole Lombard, and Gary Cooper, and today, the hotel is supposedly

haunted (ask at the front desk for the list of resident ghosts). Opened in 1927,

the Monte Vista now has creatively decorated rooms that vary in size and decor.

illiams

Although the hotel has plenty of old-fashioned flair, don’t expect perfection.

W Check out a room first to see if this is your kind of place.

100 N. San Francisco St., Flagstaff, AZ 86001. www.hotelmontevista.com. 800/545-3068 or 928/779-6971. Fax 928/779-2904. 50 units, 5 with shared bathrooms. Mid-Apr to early Nov $65

double with shared bathroom, $80–$130 double with private bathroom, $120–$175 suite; early Nov to mid-Apr $50 double with shared bathroom, $65–$90 double with private bathroom, RIZONA

$95–$115 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accep-A

ted ($35 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Weatherford This historic hotel in downtown Flagstaff is a casual

THERN

sort of place popular with young travelers, but it has loads of character. The dis-

OR

tinctive stone-walled 1897 building has a wraparound veranda on its third floor,

where you’ll also find the beautifully restored Zane Grey Ballroom (now an ele-

& N

gant bar). Downstairs are a casual restaurant and the ever-popular Charly’s Pub

& Grill, which has been booking live rock, blues, and jazz acts for more than 3

decades. The hotel is the site of the annual New Year’s Eve giant pine-cone drop.

ANYON

23 N. Leroux St., Flagstaff, AZ 86001. www.weatherfordhotel.com. 928/779-1919. 11 units, 3

C

with shared bathrooms. $49–$79 double with shared bathroom; $89 double with private

bathroom; $139 suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

RAND

Amenities: Restaurant; 3 lounges. In room: A/C (in 3 rooms), TV (in 3 rooms), MP3 docking staG

tion, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

HET

WILLIAMS

32 miles W of Flagstaff; 58 miles S of the Grand Canyon; 220 miles E of Las Vegas, NV

Although it’s almost 60 miles south of the Grand Canyon, Williams is still the

closest real town to the national park. Consequently, it has dozens of motels cater-

ing to those unable to get a room in or just outside the park. Founded in 1880 as

a railroading and logging town, Williams also has a bit of Western history to boast

about, which makes it an interesting place to explore for a morning or afternoon.

Old brick commercial buildings dating from the late 19th century line the main

street, while modest Victorian homes sit on the tree-shaded streets that spread

south from the railroad tracks. In recent years, however, mid-20th-century history

has taken center stage: Williams was the last town on historic Route 66 to be

bypassed by I-40, and the town now plays up its Route 66 heritage.

Most important for many visitors, however, is that Williams is where you’ll

find the Grand Canyon Railway depot. The excursion train that departs from

here not only provides a fun ride on the rails, but also serves as an alternative to dealing with traffic congestion in Grand Canyon National Park. Of course, there

are also the obligatory on-your-way-to-the-Grand-Canyon tourist traps nearby,

and these family-oriented attractions make Williams a good choice for families.

Named for famed mountain man Bill Williams, the town sits at the edge of

a ponderosa pine forest atop the Mogollon Rim. Surrounding Williams is the

Kaibab National Forest, and within the forest not far from town are good fishing

lakes, hiking and mountain-biking trails, and even a small downhill ski area.

292

6

THE

GRAND

CANYON

& N

Williams is home to the Grand Canyon Railway depot.

OR

THERN

Essentials

GETTING THERE Williams is on I-40 just west of the junction with Ariz. 64,

A

which leads north to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

RIZONA

Amtrak ( 800/872-7245) has service to Williams on its Southwest

Chief line. There’s no station, though—the train stops on the outskirts of

town. However, a shuttle van from the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel will

pick you up and drive you into town, and since most people coming to Wil-

liams by train are continuing on to the Grand Canyon on the Grand Canyon

Williams

Railway, this arrangement works well.

For information on the Grand Canyon Railway excursion trains to

Grand Canyon Village, see “Exploring the Area: Route 66 & Beyond,” below.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information on the Williams area, including details

on hiking, mountain biking, and fishing, contact the Williams-Grand

Canyon Chamber of Commerce/Forest Service Visitors Center, 200

W. Railroad Ave. ( 800/863-0546 or 928/635-1418; www.williams

chamber.com). The visitor center, which includes some interesting histori-

cal displays, is open daily from 8am to 5pm. The shop carries books on the

Grand Canyon and trail maps for the adjacent national forest.

Exploring the Williams Area:

Route 66 & Beyond

These days, most people coming to Williams are here to board the Grand Can-

yon Railway

, Williams Depot, 233 N. Grand Canyon Blvd. ( 800/843-

8724 or 303/843-8724; www.thetrain.com), which operates vintage steam and

diesel locomotives between Williams and Grand Canyon Village. Round-trip

fares (not including tax or the national park entrance fee) range from $75 to $190

for adults, $45 to $110 for children 2 to 12. Although this is primarily a day-

excursion train, it’s possible to ride up one day and return on a different day—just let the reservations clerk know that’s what you want to do. The same company

that operates the train also manages the hotels in Grand Canyon Village. If you

can’t get a reservation at one of the hotels inside the park, you’ll end up having to take a shuttle bus or taxi out of the park to your hotel, which can be inconvenient

and add a bit to your daily costs.

293

6

Route 66 fans will want to drive

Williams’s main street, which, not sur-

prisingly, is named Route 66. Along

this stretch of the old highway, you can

illiams

check out the town’s vintage buildings,

W many of which house shops selling

Route 66 souvenirs. A few antiques

stores sell collectibles from the heyday

of the famous highway.

Both east and west of town you

RIZONA

can drive more sections of the “Mother

A

Road.” However, with the exception of

the section that begins at exit 139,

these stretches are not very remarkable

THERN

and are recommended only for die-

OR

hard fans of Route 66. East of town,

take exit 167 off I-40 and follow the

& N

graveled Old Trails Highway (the

predecessor to Route 66). A paved sec-

tion of Route 66 begins at exit 171 on The Williams stretch of Route 66.

ANYON

the north side of the interstate and

C

extends for 7 miles to the site of the Parks General Store. From Parks, you can

continue to Brannigan Park on a graveled section of Route 66.

RAND

West of Williams, take exit 157 and go south. If you turn east at the T inter-

G

section, you’ll be on a gravel section of the old highway; if you turn west, you’ll be HET

on a paved section. Another stretch can be accessed at exit 106. If you continue

another 12 miles west and take exit 139, you’ll be on the longest uninterrupted

stretch of Route 66 left in the country. It extends from here all the way to King-

man, and along the way, passes through the town of Seligman, which has sev-

eral interesting buildings.

Outlying Attractions

Bearizona ZOO If your kids start whining that they didn’t see any moun-

tain lions, wolves, or bears, oh my, at the Grand Canyon bring them to this drive-

through wildlife park on the eastern outskirts of Williams. Not only are there the

black bears for which the park is named, but also wolves, bobcats, bighorn sheep,

and bison. Additionally, there are informative raptor presentations.

1500 E. Route 66, Williams. www.bearizona.com. 928/635-2289. $16 adults, $15 seniors, $8

children 4–12, free for children 3 and under. Daily 8:30am–4pm (later in summer). Closed Jan–Feb.

Grand Canyon Deer Farm ZOO If you have the kids with you, be sure

to stop at this private petting zoo, where you’ll find both axis deer and reindeer,

as well as miniature horses, donkeys, and cattle. Best of all, you get to pet and

feed the deer and some of the other animals. You’ll also see bison, llamas, a

camel, a coatimundi, and even wallabies and marmosets. Between April and

August, you’re likely to see newborns.

6769 E. Deer Farm Rd. www.deerfarm.com. 800/926-3337 or 928/635-4073. Admission $9.95

adults, $8.50 seniors, $5.95 ages 3–13, free for children 2 and under. Mar 16–Oct 15 daily 9am–

6pm; Oct 16–Mar 15 daily 10am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take exit 171 (Deer Farm Rd.) off I-40, 8 miles east of Williams.

294

Planes of Fame Air Museum MUSEUM Fans of old fighter planes may 6

want to spend a little time wandering around the hangar at this air museum.

Among the planes on display are American, Japanese, and Russian fighters. You

THE

can also see an old Ford Trimotor (the sort of plane that once flew tourists over

G

the Grand Canyon).

RAND

Valle Airport, 755 Mustang Way, Valle. www.planesoffame.org. 928/635-1000. Admission $6.95 adults, $1.95 ages 5–11, free for children 4 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. 30 miles north of Williams on Ariz. 64.

CANYON

Where to Eat

Cruiser’s Café 66 AMERICAN If you’re looking for a taste of old-fashioned

& N

Route 66 atmosphere, this is the place. Partly housed in a 1930s gas station, this

place is full of Route 66 memorabilia. The menu sticks to familiar fare such as

OR

burgers and steaks, but they also do good barbecued ribs and a smoked brisket

THERN

sandwich. Because the restaurant is affiliated with the adjacent Grand Canyon

Brewing Company, you should be sure to accompany your meal with a local

microbrew.

A

233 W. Rte. 66. 928/635-2445. Main courses $10–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

RIZONA

Closed Nov–Feb.

Red Raven Restaurant NEW AMERICAN A cheeseburger and a milk-

shake may be the meal of choice for most visitors to this Route 66 town, but here

at the Red Raven, culinary horizons are a bit broader. Start your meal with South-

W

western egg rolls that are served with a smoky chipotle dipping sauce. Then try

illiams

the pork loin with cranberry-pineapple salsa or the basil butter salmon with cran-

berry–pine nut couscous. There are also plenty of steaks. Although it is a fairly

casual place, this is by far the most sophisticated restaurant in town.

135 W. Rte. 66. www.redravenrestaurant.com. 928/635-4980. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $5–$10 lunch, $12–$27 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–2pm and 5–9pm.

Rod’s Steak House AMERICAN In business since 1946, Rod’s is a Wil-

liams and Route 66 institution. The menu is not nearly as creative or contempo-

rary as that at the Red Raven, but the steaks are reliable. Prime rib au jus, the

house specialty, comes in three different weights to fit your hunger. If you’re not

in the mood for steak, opt for barbecued ribs, trout, or fried chicken. To find

Rod’s, just look for the red neon steer at the east end of town.

301 E. Rte. 66. www.rods-steakhouse.com. 928/635-2671. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $6.50–$13 lunch, $13–$42 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm.

Where to Stay

MODERATE

Grand Canyon Railway Hotel This hotel is operated by the Grand Can-

yon Railway and combines modern comforts with the style of a classic Western

railroad hotel. The high-ceilinged lobby features a large flagstone fireplace and

paintings of the Grand Canyon. The very comfortable guest rooms feature South-

western styling; ask for a unit in the wing with the fitness room, pool, and hot tub.

The hotel’s elegant lounge, which features a 100-year-old English bar, serves

simple meals, and there’s a buffet-style restaurant adjacent. Although this hotel

does not accept pets, they do have a pet “resort.”

295

6 233 N. Grand Canyon Blvd., Williams, AZ 86046. www.thetrain.com. 800/843-8724 or 928/635-4010. Fax 928/773-1610. 298 units. Mid-Mar to mid-Oct and holidays $169–$189 double, $219–$350 suite; mid-Oct to mid-Mar $109–$119 double, $350 suite. Railroad/hotel packages available (mid-Mar to mid-Oct and holidays $225 per person; mid-Oct to mid-Mar $158 per illiams

person). Children 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2

W restaurants; lounge; exercise room; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

The Lodge on Route 66 If you’re just looking for an inexpensive place with

a bit more character than your average chain motel, try this renovated motel,

which dates back to when Route 66 was new. The rooms here now sport a rustic

RIZONA

lodge decor, and the furnishing are far more attractive than what you’d expect to

A

find. Beds have pillow-top mattresses, and there are stone counters in the bath-

rooms. The suites are good bets if you’re traveling with the whole family.

200 E. Route 66, Williams, AZ 86046. www.thelodgeonroute66.com. 877/563-4366 or 928/

THERN

635-4534. 18 units. $90–$120 double, $140–$190 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. DISC, OR

MC, V. Children 5 and under stay free in parent’s room. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

& N

The Red Garter Inn The Wild West lives again at this restored 1897

bordello, but these days the only tarts that come with the rooms are in the bakery

downstairs. Located across the street from the Grand Canyon Railway terminal

ANYON

at the top of a steep flight of stairs, this B&B sports high ceilings, attractive wood C

trim, and reproduction period furnishings. Walls in a couple of rooms have graf-

fiti written by bordello visitors in the early 20th century. The great historical

atmosphere makes this my favorite place to stay in Williams.

RAND G 137 W. Railroad Ave., Williams, AZ 86046. www.redgarter.com. 800/328-1484 or 928/635-HE

1484. 4 units. $135–$160 double. Rates include continental breakfast. DISC, MC, V. No children T

8 or under. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

In addition to the following choice, there are numerous budget chain motels in

Williams.

The Canyon Motel & RV Park You’ll find this updated 1940s

Route 66 motor lodge on the eastern outskirts of Williams, tucked against the

trees. While the setting and the rooms in 1940s flagstone cottages are nice

enough, the real attractions are the railroad cars parked in the front yard. You can stay in a caboose or a Pullman car, which makes this a fun place to overnight if

you plan to take the excursion train to the Grand Canyon. I prefer the caboose

rooms, which have a more authentic feel. An indoor pool, a horseshoe pit, a

swing set, and nature trails provide plenty of entertainment for the whole family.

There’s also a deluxe RV park here.

1900 E. Rodeo Rd., Williams, AZ 86046. www.thecanyonmotel.com. 800/482-3955 or 928/

635-9371. Fax 928/635-4138. 23 units. $40–$79 double; $159 caboose; $105 Pullman double.

Children 6 and under stay free in parent’s room. DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night).

Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club; small seasonal indoor pool. In room: TV, fridge, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

CAMPGROUNDS

There are several campgrounds near Williams in the Kaibab National Forest.

They include Cataract Lake, 1 mile northwest of Williams on Cataract Lake

Road, with 18 sites ($14 per night; no reservations); Dogtown Lake, 61⁄2 miles southeast of Williams off Fourth Street/Perkinsville Road/F.R. 173, with 52 sites

296

($18 per night; reservations accepted); Kaibab Lake, 4 miles northeast of Wil-6

liams off Ariz. 64, with 73 sites ($18 per night; reservations accepted); and

Whitehorse Lake, 19 miles southeast of Williams off Fourth Street/Perkinsville THE

Road/F.R. 173, with 94 sites ($18 per night; reservations accepted).

GRAND

HAVASU CANYON & GRAND

C

CANYON WEST

ANYON

Havasu Canyon: 200 miles W of Grand Canyon Village; 70 miles N of Ariz. 66; 155 miles NW of Flagstaff; 115 miles NE of Kingman

& N

Grand Canyon West: 240 miles W of Grand Canyon Village; 70 miles N of Kingman; 115 miles E

of Las Vegas, NV

OR

With roughly four million people each year visiting the South Rim of the Grand

THERN

Canyon, and traffic congestion and parking problems becoming the most memo-

rable aspects of many people’s trips, you may want to consider an alternative to

the South Rim. For most travelers, this means driving around to the North Rim;

A

however, the North Rim is open only from mid-May to late October and, unfor-

RIZONA

tunately, is not immune to parking problems and traffic congestion.

There are a couple of lesser-known alternatives. A visit to Havasu Canyon,

on the Havasupai Indian Reservation, entails a 20-mile round-trip hike or horse-

back ride similar to that from Grand Canyon Village to Phantom Ranch, although

with a decidedly different setting at the bottom of the canyon. Grand Canyon

Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon W

West, home to the much-hyped Skywalk, is on the Hualapai Indian Reservation

and is primarily a tour-bus destination for vacationers from Las Vegas. With bus

tours, cafeteria-style restaurants, contrived attractions, and as much buzzing

helicopter and small-plane traffic as any busy airport, Grand Canyon West is

definitely someplace that can be appreciated only by those who have very little

time to spare but who desperately want to see something that looks like the

Grand Canyon. This is also the only place where you can fly down into the can-

yon, which accounts for all the air traffic.

Essentials

GETTING THERE It isn’t possible to drive all the way to Havasu Canyon’s

Supai village. The nearest road ends 8 miles from Supai at Hualapai Hilltop.

est

This is the trailhead for the trail into the canyon and is at the end of Indian

Rte. 18, which runs north from Ariz. 66. The turnoff is 7 miles east of Peach

Springs and 31 miles west of Seligman.

The easiest and fastest way to reach Havasu Canyon is by helicopter

from Hualapai Hilltop. Flights are operated by Airwest Helicopters

( 623/516-2790; www.airwesthelicopters.com). The one-way fare is $85.

If you’re headed to Grand Canyon West, you’ve got a couple of

options. The best route is to head northwest out of Kingman on U.S. 93.

After 27 miles, turn right onto the Pearce Ferry Road (signed for Dolan

Springs and Meadview). After 28 miles on this road, turn right onto Dia-

mond Bar Road, which is signed for Grand Canyon West. Another 14 miles

down this road brings you to the Hualapai Indian Reservation. A little far-

ther along, you’ll come to the Grand Canyon West Terminal (there’s actually

an airstrip here), where visitor permits and bus-tour tickets are sold. You can

297

6

also drive to Grand Canyon West from Peach Springs via Buck and Doe

Road, which adds almost 50 miles of gravel road to your trip and is not pass-

able if it has rained any time recently.

est

VISITOR INFORMATION For information on Havasu Canyon, contact Havasupai

Tourism, P.O. Box 160, Supai, AZ 86435 ( 928/448-2121 or 928/448-

2141; www.havasupaitribe.com), which handles all campground reservations.

For information on Grand Canyon West, contact Hualapai Tourism ( 888/

868-9378 or 928/769-2636; www.grandcanyonwest.com).

Exploring Havasu Canyon

Imagine hiking for hours through a dusty brown landscape of rocks and cacti.

The sun overhead is blistering and bright. The air is hot and dry. Rock walls rise

higher and higher as you continue your descent through a mazelike canyon.

Eventually, the narrow canyon opens into a wide plain shaded by cottonwood

trees, a sure sign of water, and within a few minutes you hear the sound of a bab-

bling stream. The water, when you finally reach it, is cool and crystal clear, a

Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon W pleasant surprise. Following the stream, you pass through a dusty Indian village of small homes. Not surprisingly, in a village 8 miles beyond the last road, every

yard seems to be a corral for horses. Passing through the village, you continue

along the stream.

As the trail descends again, you spot the first waterfall. At the foot of the

RIZONA A falls, the creek’s waters, previously crystal-clear, are a brilliant turquoise blue.

The sandstone walls rising above look redder than before. No, you aren’t having

a heat-induced hallucination—the water really is turquoise, and it fills terraces of THERN

travertine that form deep pools of cool water at the base of the canyon’s water-

OR

falls. Welcome to Havasu Canyon, home of the Havasupai tribe, whose name

means “people of the blue-green waters.” For centuries, the Havasupai have

& N

called this idyllic desert oasis home.

ANYON C

RAND G

HET

The water at Havasu Canyon is crystal clear.

298

Together this canyon’s waterfalls form what many claim is the most beauti-

6

ful spot in the entire state. I’m not going to argue with them. The waterfalls and

the pools that form below them are the canyon’s main attraction, and most peo-

THE

ple are content to go for swims in the cool waters, sun themselves on the sand,

G

and gaze for hours at the turquoise waters.

RAND

Unfortunately, this canyon is subject to frequent flooding, which can occa-

sionally close down the campground. In August 2008, a massive flood roared

through the canyon, gouging out a new creek channel that created two new

CANYON

waterfalls but bypassed one of the former falls. Then, in 2010, there were two

flash floods that stranded campers in the canyon and prompted a closure of the

canyon. There is speculation that the flood of 2008 has made the campground

more prone to flooding. However, the canyon has always been quick to hide the

& N

scars caused by flooding. That said, be sure to check current conditions when

OR

planning a trip to Havasupai, and if possible, plan your visit in the spring when

flash flooding is less likely. Also, keep in mind that the water, when not in flood, THERN

is still that amazing turquoise color.

The Havasupai entry fee is $40 per person to visit Havasu Canyon, and

A

everyone entering the canyon is required to register at the tourist office in the

RIZONA

village of Supai. Because it’s a long walk to the campground, be sure you have a

confirmed reservation before setting out from Hualapai Hilltop. It’s good to make

reservations as far in advance as possible, especially for holiday weekends.

If you plan to hike down into the canyon, start early to avoid the heat of the

day. The hike is beautiful, but it’s 10 miles to the campground. The steepest part

Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon W

of the trail is the first mile or so from Hualapai Hilltop. After this section, it’s relatively flat.

Through Havasupai Tourism ( 928/448-2121 or 928/448-2141; www.

havasupaitribe.com), you can hire a horse to carry you or your gear down into the

canyon from Hualapai Hilltop. Horses cost $70 to $94 each way. Many people

who hike in decide that it’s worth the money to ride out, or at least have their

backpacks carried out. Be sure to confirm your horse reservation a day before

driving to Hualapai Hilltop. Sometimes no horses are available, and it’s a long

drive back to the nearest town. There are also pack mules that will carry your gear

into and out of the canyon.

If you’d like to hike into Havasu Canyon with a guide, Arizona Outback

Adventures, 16447 N. 91st St., Ste. 101, Scottsdale, AZ 85260 ( 866/455-

1601 or 480/945-2881; www.aoa-adventures.com), leads 3- to 5-day hikes into

est

Havasu Canyon and charges $848 to $1,698 per person. Discovery Treks,

28248 N. Tatum Blvd., Ste. B1, no. 414, Cave Creek, AZ 85331 ( 888/256-

8731 or 480/247-9266; www.discoverytreks.com), offers similar 3-day trips for $895 to $1,186 per person.

Exploring Grand Canyon West

Located on the Hualapai Indian Reservation on the south side of the Colorado

River, Grand Canyon West ( 888/868-9378; www.grandcanyonwest.com)

overlooks the west end of Grand Canyon National Park. Although the view is not

as spectacular as at either the South Rim or the North Rim, Grand Canyon West

is noteworthy for one thing: It is one of the only places where you can legally take a helicopter ride down into the canyon. This is possible because the helicopters

operate on land that is part of the Hualapai Indian Reservation. At this point, the

south side of the Colorado lies within the reservation, while the north side of the

299

6 river is within Grand Canyon National

Park. The tours are operated by Papil-

lon Helicopters ( 888/635-7272

est

or 702/736-7243; www.papillon.com),

which charges $175 per person for a

quick trip to the bottom of the canyon

and a boat ride on the Colorado River.

Discounts are usually available online.

Grand Canyon West is the site of

the Skywalk, and contrary to what you

may have read about this Vegas-style

attraction, the Skywalk is not over the

Colorado River and is not in Grand

Canyon National Park. The horseshoe-

shaped glass observation platform juts

over a side canyon of the Grand Can-

Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon W yon, and from the deck you can glimpse

the Colorado River a short distance

away and 4,000 feet below. However,

you’ll have to cough up $83 for the

privilege of walking out on the Skywalk

RIZONA

for a view that is only marginally better

A

than the view from solid ground. For The Skywalk juts over the edge of the canyon.

your $83, you’ll also get a simple meal

and a shuttle bus ride along the rim of the canyon. The shuttle stops at Eagle THERN

Point, which is the site of the Skywalk and a collection of traditional Native

OR

American dwellings; at Guano Point, where bat guano was once mined commer-

cially; and at Hualapai Ranch, a faux cow town where there are wagon and horse-

& N

back rides, cowboy cookouts, and gunfight shows. Tours operate daily throughout

the year and start at $42 per person (without the Skywalk; $83 with the Skywalk).

A horseback ride can be added for $35 to $75. A helicopter ride down into the

ANYON

canyon and a brief boat trip on the Colorado River can be added for $159 to

C

$175. Reservations are recommended.

Because this is about the closest spot to Las Vegas that actually provides a

RAND

glimpse of the Colorado River and Grand Canyon National Park, the bus tours

G

and helicopter rides are very popular with tour groups from Las Vegas. Busloads

HE

of visitors come and go throughout the day, and the air is always filled with the

T

noise of helicopters ferrying people down into the canyon.

While Grand Canyon West and the Skywalk are pretty much the biggest

tourist rip-off in the state and can be recommended only as a side trip from Las

Vegas for travelers who absolutely must fly down into the canyon, the drive out

here is one of the most scenic routes in Arizona. Along Diamond Bar Road, you’ll

be driving below the Grand Wash Cliffs, and for much of the way, the route tra-

verses a dense forest of Joshua trees. If you’re coming from Kingman, allow at

least 2 hours to get here.

Organized Tours

If you aren’t interested in (or can’t afford) one of these rafting trips, you still

might want to consider driving down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon. That’s

right, the Diamond Creek Road leads to the bottom of the canyon. This gravel

300

road is on the Hualapai Indian Reservation and is the only place in the Grand 6

Canyon where it is possible to drive to the Colorado River. Bear in mind that this

is a rough road and you’ll need a high-clearance vehicle and a permit ($257 per

THE

person). Get your permit at the Hualapai Lodge. March through November, you

G

can also take a jeep tour to the bottom of the canyon with Grand Canyon Jeep

RAND

Tours ( 800/716-9389; www.grandcanyonjeeps.com), which has its office in Williams and charges $229 per person for a full-day tour that also includes a visit

to Grand Canyon Caverns. If you start this tour in the community of Peach

CANYON

Springs, on the Hualapai reservation, it costs only $189 per person

Also in this area, you can visit Grand Canyon Caverns ( 928/422-3223

or 928/422-4565; www.grandcanyoncaverns.com), just outside Peach Springs. The

caverns, which are accessed via a 210-foot elevator ride, are open from Memorial

& N

Day to October 15 daily from 9am to 5pm, and other months daily from 10am to

OR

4pm. Admission is $15 for adults, $9.95 for children 5 to 12. Explorers’ Tours ($45

adults and kids) head off into parts of the caverns that aren’t seen on the regular

THERN

tour. These caverns are unusual in that they are dry caverns that were formed when

lava flows encountered limestone. Also, at one time the caverns were a designated

A

fallout shelter and supplies are still stored in one large chamber.

RIZONA

Outdoor Activities

If you long to raft the Grand Canyon but have only a couple of free days in your

schedule to realize your dream, then you have just one option. Here at the west

end of the canyon, it’s possible to do a 1-day rafting trip that begins on the Huala-Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon W

pai Indian Reservation. These trips are operated by Hualapai River Runners

( 888/868-9378; www.grandcanyonwest.com), a tribal rafting company, and

are offered between March and October. On these trips, you’ll encounter a mix

of white water and flat water. Although it’s not as exciting as longer trips in the

main section of the canyon, you’ll still plow through some pretty big waves. Be

ready to get wet. These trips stop at a couple of side canyons where you can get

out and do some exploring. The one-day trips cost $348 per person.

Where to Stay & Eat

The Caverns Inn Ever dreamed of spending the night 220 feet underground?

The underground cavern suite at this old Route 66 motel is surprisingly popular for

an accommodation that costs $700 a night. Most of the rooms here are far more

traditional and far more economical. Built on the site of the Grand Canyon Cav-

est

erns, which are open to the public, the Caverns Inn makes a good choice if you are

heading down to the bottom of nearby Havasu Canyon. Although this motel is not

as modern as the nearby Hualapai Lodge, rooms are comfortable and service is

good. Horseback rides and guided jeep tours to the bottom of the Grand Canyon

can be arranged, and there’s a general store with camping supplies and food.

Mile Marker 115, Route 66, Peach Springs, AZ 86434. www.grandcanyoncaverns.com.

928/422-3223 or 928/422-4565. Fax 928/422-4471. 49 units. $75–$90 double; $700 cavern suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25

deposit plus $5 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bikes; seasonal outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer.

Hualapai Lodge Located in the Hualapai community of Peach Springs,

this lodge, although fairly basic, offers the most luxurious accommodations any-

where in the region. Guest rooms are spacious and modern, with a few bits of

301

6 regional decor for character. Most people staying here are in the area to visit

Grand Canyon West, to go rafting with Hualapai River Runners, or to hike into

Havasu Canyon. The dining room is just about the only place in town to get a

meal and serves some Native American dishes. Light sleepers should be aware

that there is a railroad track behind the hotel.

Kingman 900 Rte. 66 (P.O. Box 538), Peach Springs, AZ 86434. www.grandcanyonwest.com. 888/868-9378 or 928/769-2636. 60 units. $100–$110 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 per day). Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

RIZONA

IN HAVASU CANYON

A

Havasu Campground, 2 miles beyond Supai village between Havasu Falls and

Mooney Falls, is the only campground in the canyon. Campsites ($17 per night)

are mostly in the shade of cottonwood trees on either side of Havasu Creek, and

THERN

picnic tables are provided. No firewood is available, so be sure to bring a camp

OR

stove. Spring water is available, but it needs to be purified before you drink it. To make a campsite reservation, contact Havasupai Tourism, P.O. Box 160, Supai,

& N

AZ 86435 ( 928/448-2141 or 928/448-2121; www.havasupaitribe.com).

Havasupai Lodge Located in Supai village, this lodge offers, aside from the

campground, the only accommodations in the canyon. The two-story building

ANYON

features standard motel-style rooms that lack only TVs and telephones, neither

C

of which is much in demand at this isolated retreat. The only real drawback of

this comfortable though basic lodge is that it’s 2 miles from Havasu Falls and 3

RAND

miles from Mooney Falls. For meals, there’s a cafe across from the general store.

G

It’s a very casual place, and prices are high for what you get because all ingredi-

HET

ents must be packed in by horse.

P.O. Box 159, Supai, AZ 86435. www.havasupaitribe.com. 928/448-2111 or 928/448-2201. 24

units. $145 double. MC, V. In room: A/C, no phone.

KINGMAN

180 miles SW of Grand Canyon Village; 150 miles W of Flagstaff; 30 miles E of Laughlin, NV; 90

miles SE of Las Vegas, NV

Although Kingman is the only town of any size between the Grand Canyon

and Las Vegas, it is primarily a place to gas up before heading out across the

desert. However, if you have a cou-

ple of hours to spare, the city does

have interesting little museums and

downtown historic buildings. The

town’s other claim to fame is that it

is on the longest extant stretch of

historic Route 66.

That Kingman today is more

way station than destination is not

surprising, considering its history. In

1857, Lieut. Edward Fitzgerald

Beale passed through this region

leading a special corps of camel-

mounted soldiers on a road-survey-

ing expedition. Some 60 years later, Kingman is typically a place to fuel cars and stomachs.

302

the road Beale surveyed would become the National Old Trails Highway, the 6

precursor to Route 66. Gold and silver were discovered in the nearby hills in the

1870s, and in the early 1880s, the railroad laid its tracks through what would

THE

become the town of Kingman. Kingman flourished briefly around the start of the

G

20th century as a railroad town, and today, buildings constructed during this rail-

RAND

roading heyday give downtown a bit of historical character.

In the nearby hills, such mining towns as Oatman and Chloride sprang up

and boomed until the 1920s, when the mines became unprofitable and were

CANYON

abandoned. Then, during the 1930s, tens of thousands of the impoverished and

unemployed following Route 66 from the Midwest to Los Angeles passed through

Kingman, which became an important stop on the road to the promised land of

California. Route 66 has long since been replaced by I-40, but the longest

& N

remaining stretch of the old highway runs east from Kingman to Ash Fork. Over

OR

the years, Route 66 has taken on legendary status, and today people come from

all over the world searching for pieces of this highway’s historic past.

THERN

Remember Andy Devine? No? Well, Kingman is more than happy to tell you

all about its squeaky-voiced native-son actor. Devine starred in hundreds of short

A

films and features beginning in the silent-screen era, but he’s perhaps best known

RIZONA

as cowboy sidekick Jingles on the 1950s TV western Wild Bill Hickok. In the 1950s and 1960s, he hosted Andy’s Gang, a popular children’s TV show, and in the 1960s, he played Captain Hap on Flipper. Devine died in 1977, but here in Kingman his memory lives on—in a room in the local museum and every September when the town celebrates Andy Devine Days.

Kingman

Essentials

GETTING THERE Kingman is on I-40 at the junction with U.S. 93 from Las

Vegas. One of the last sections of old Route 66 (Ariz. 66) connects Kingman

with Ash Fork.

Amtrak ( 800/872-7245) offers rail service to Kingman from Chi-

cago and Los Angeles. The station is at 106 Fourth Street.

VISITOR INFORMATION The

Powerhouse Tourist Information & Visitor

Center, 120 W. Rte. 66 ( 866/427-7866 or 928/753-6106; www.kingman

tourism.org), is in a restored 1907 powerhouse that also houses the Historic

Route 66 Museum, a Route 66 gift shop, and a model railroad. The visitor

center is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Exploring Kingman

There isn’t much to do right in Kingman, but while you’re in town, you can learn

more about local history at the Mohave Museum of History and Arts, 400 W.

Beale St. ( 928/753-3195; www.mohavemuseum.org). Plenty of Andy Devine

memorabilia is on display. The museum is open Monday through Friday from

9am to 5pm, Saturday from 1 to 5pm. Admission is $4 for adults, $3 for seniors,

free for children 11 and under. Afterward, take a drive or a stroll around down-

town Kingman to view the town’s many historic buildings. (You can pick up a map

at the museum.)

If you’re interested in historic homes, you can tour the Bonelli House, 430

E. Spring St. ( 928/753-1413), a two-story stone home built in 1915 and fur-

nished much as it may have been at that time. It’s open Monday through Friday

from 11am to 3pm (last tour starts at 2:30pm), but before heading over, check at

303

6

GET YOUR KICKS ON route 66

It was the Mother Road, the Main Street of America, and for thousands of Midwest-

erners devastated by the Dust Bowl days of the 1930s, the road to a better life. On

the last leg of its journey from Chicago to California, Route 66 meandered across the Kingman vast empty landscape of northern Arizona, and today, much of this road is still visible.

Officially dedicated in 1926, Route

capsules from another era, vestiges of

66 was the first highway in America to

Route 66’s legendary past.

be uniformly signed from one state to

The

Wigwam Motel (p. 330) in

RIZONA A

the next. Less than half of the highway’s

Holbrook is one of the most distinctive

2,200-mile route was paved, and in

Route 66 landmarks. The wigwams

those days, the stretch between Winslow

(actually tepees) were built out of con-

THERN

and Ash Fork was so muddy in winter

crete around 1940 and still contain

OR

that drivers had their cars shipped by

many of their original furnishings. Also

railroad between the two points. By the

in Holbrook are several rock shops with

& N

1930s, however, the entire length of

giant signs—and life-size concrete dino-

Route 66 had been paved, and the west-

saurs—that date from Route 66 days.

ward migration was underway.

Flagstaff, the largest town along

ANYON

The years following World War II

the Arizona stretch of Route 66, became

C

saw Americans take to Route 66 in

a major layover spot. Motor courts flour-

unprecedented numbers for a different

ished on the road leading into town

RAND

reason. A new prosperity and reliable

from the east. Today, this road has been

G

cars made travel a pleasure, and Ameri-

officially renamed Route 66 by the city

cans set out to discover the West. Motor

of Flagstaff, and a few of the old motor

HET

courts, cafes, and tourist traps sprang

courts remain. Although you probably

up along the highway’s length, and

wouldn’t want to stay in most of these

these businesses increasingly turned to

old motels, their neon signs were once

eye-catching signs and billboards to lure

beacons in the night for tired drivers.

passing motorists. Neon lit up the once-

Downtown Flagstaff has quite a few

lonely stretches of highway.

shops where you can pick up Route 66

By the 1950s, Route 66 just couldn’t

memorabilia.

handle the traffic. After President Eisen-

About 65 miles west of Flagstaff

hower initiated the National Interstate

begins the longest remaining stretch of

Highway System, Route 66 was slowly

old Route 66. Extending for 160 miles

replaced by a four-lane divided highway.

from Ash Fork to Topock, this lonely

Many of the towns along the old high-

blacktop passes through some of the

way were bypassed, and motorists

most remote country in Arizona (and

stopped frequenting such roadside

goes right through the town of King-

establishments as Pope’s General Store

man). In Seligman, at the east end of

and the Oatman Hotel. Many closed,

this stretch of the highway, you’ll find

while others were replaced by their

Delgadillo’s Snow Cap, 301 E. Rte. 66

more modern equivalents. Some, how-

( 928/422-3291), which serves up fast

ever, managed to survive, and they

food amid outrageous decor (closed in

appear along the road like strange time

winter). Next door at Angel & Vilma

304

GET YOUR KICKS ON route 66

6

Delgadillo’s Route 66 Gift Shop &

After the drive through the wilder-

THE

Visitor’s Center, 217 E. Rte. 66 ( 928/

ness west of Seligman, Kingman feels

G

422-3352; www.route66giftshop.com),

like a veritable metropolis; its bold neon

RAND

you’ll be entertained by the owner,

signs once brought a sigh of relief to the

Angel, one of Route 66’s most famous

tired and the hungry. Today, it boasts

residents and an avid fan of the old

dozens of modern motels and is still

CANYON

highway. The walls of Angel’s old one-

primarily a resting spot for the road-

chair barbershop are covered with

weary. Mr. D’z Route 66 Diner (p. 307),

photos and business cards of happy

a modern rendition of a 1950s diner

& N

customers. Today, Angel’s place is

(housed in an old gas station/cafe),

a Route 66 information center and

serves burgers and blue-plate specials.

OR

souvenir shop.

Across the street at 120 W. Rte. 66. is a

THERN

After leaving Seligman, the highway

restored powerhouse that dates from

passes through such waysides as Peach

1907 and is home to the Historic Route

Springs, Truxton, Valentine, and Hack-

66 Association of Arizona ( 928/

A

berry. Before reaching Peach Springs,

753-5001; www.azrt66.com), the His-

RIZONA

you’ll come to Grand Canyon Caverns,

toric Route 66 Museum (see above),

once a near-mandatory stop for families

and the Powerhouse Visitor Center.

traveling Route 66. In Hackberry, be

Each year over the first weekend in May,

sure to stop at the Hackberry General

Kingman hosts the Historic Route 66

Store & Visitor’s Center, 11255 E. Ariz.

Fun Run, a drive along 150 miles of

Kingman

66 ( 928/769-2605; www.hackberry

old Route 66 between Topock and

generalstore.com), which is filled with

Seligman.

Route 66 memorabilia as well as old

The last stretch of Route 66 in Ari-

stuff from the 1950s and 1960s. At Valle

zona heads southwest out of Kingman

Vista, near Kingman, the highway goes

through the rugged Sacramento Moun-

into a 7-mile-long curve. Some claim it’s

tains. It passes through Oatman, which

the longest continuous curve on a U.S.

almost became a ghost town after the

highway.

local gold-mining industry shut down

and the new interstate highway pulled

money out of town. Today, mock gun-

fights and nosy wild burros entice

motorists to stop, and shops playing up

Route 66’s heritage line the wooden

sidewalks.

After dropping down out of the

mountains, the road once crossed the

Colorado River on a narrow metal

bridge. Although the bridge is still

there, it now carries a pipeline instead

of traffic; cars must now return to the

bland I-40 to continue their journey into

the promised land of California.

305

6 the Mohave Museum of History and Arts to see if there will be a guide on hand

to show you around. Admission is by donation.

The Historic Route 66 Museum, 120 W. Route 66 ( 928/753-9889;

www.kingmantourism.org), has exhibits on the history of not just Route 66, but

also the roads, railroads, and trails that preceded it. A great collection of old pho-Kingman tos taken during the Depression, and even an “Okie” truck are on display. You’ll also see a Studebaker Champion and mock-ups of a gas station, diner, hotel

lobby, and barbershop. Hours are daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is $4 for

adults, $3 for seniors, and free for children 12 and under.

When you’re tired of the heat and want to cool off, head southeast of King-

RIZONA

man to Hualapai Mountain Park, 6250 Hualapai Mountain Rd. ( 928/681-

A

5700; www.mcparks.com), which covers 2,300 acres and is at elevations

between 4,984 and 8,417 feet. The park offers picnicking, hiking, mountain bik-

ing, camping, and rustic rental cabins built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conser-

THERN

vation Corps. Daily admission to the park is $5.

OR

About 30 miles east of Kingman, on historic Route 66 in the community

of Valentine, you can get up close and personal with a variety of big cats and

& N

other wild animals at Keepers of the Wild Nature Park, 13441 E. Ariz. 66

( 928/769-1800; www.keepersofthewild.org). The park is open Wednesday

through Monday from 9am to 5pm (weather permitting), and admission is $18

ANYON

for adults, $15 for seniors, and $12 for children 12 and under.

C

Outlying Attractions: Oatman

RAND

Located 30 miles southwest of Kingman on old Route 66, the busy little mining

G

camp of Oatman is a classic Wild West ghost town full of tourist shops selling HET

tacky souvenirs. Founded in 1906 when gold was discovered here, Oatman

quickly grew into a lively town of 12,000 people and was an important stop on

Route 66. In 1942, when the U.S. government closed down many of Arizona’s

Oatman is a classic Wild West ghost town.

306

gold-mining operations, Oatman’s population plummeted. Today the once-aban-

6

doned old buildings have been preserved as a very lively ghost town. The historic

look of Oatman has attracted numerous filmmakers over the years; How the West

THE

Was Won is just one of the movies that was shot here.

G

One of Oatman’s biggest attractions is its population of feral burros. These

RAND

animals, which roam the streets of town begging for handouts, are descendants

of burros used by gold miners. Be careful—they bite!

And, of course, the Wild West isn’t the Wild West if you don’t spend some

CANYON

time in the saddle. Oatman Stables ( 928/788-1764; www.oatmanstables.

com) offers 1-hour horseback rides for $35 per person and 2-hour rides for $60.

Annual events staged here are among the strangest in the state, including

January bed races, a Fourth of July high-noon sidewalk egg fry, and a Christmas

& N

season bush-decorating competition. Saloons and restaurants provide options for

OR

a meal and a chance to soak up the Oatman atmosphere for a while. For more

information, contact the Oatman Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 423,

THERN

Oatman, AZ 86433 ( 928/768-6222; http://oatmangoldroad.org).

A

Where to Stay & Eat

RIZONA

Most of the budget motel chains have branches in Kingman, and rates are among

the lowest in the state. None of these motels is particularly recommendable, but

if it’s late in the day and you need a place to stay, you’re more likely to find a cheap place here than in Las Vegas to the west or Williams to the east.

If you’re stuck in Kingman and need some espresso, head downtown to

Kingman

Beale Street Brews, 418 E. Beale St. ( 928/753-4004; http://bealestreet brews.net), or at the other end of the day, stop next door at The Cellar Door,

414 E. Beale St. ( 928/753-3885; http://the-cellar-door.com), a wine bar that has live music several nights each week.

DamBar & Steak House STEAK This steakhouse has long been Kingman’s

favorite place for dinner out. It’s hard to miss—just look for the steer on the roof of a rustic wooden building. Inside, the atmosphere is very casual, with wooden

booths and sawdust on the floor. Mesquite-broiled steaks are the name of the

game here, but there are plenty of other hearty dishes as well.

1960 E. Andy Devine Ave. 928/753-3523. Reservations recommended on weekends and in summer. Main courses $7.50–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

Mr. D’z Route 66 Diner AMERICAN This modern version of a vintage

roadside diner is painted an eye-catching turquoise and pink, a retro color

scheme that continues inside, where you can snuggle into a booth or grab a stool

at the counter. Mr. D’z is a big hit with car buffs and people doing Route 66.

Punch in a few 1950s tunes on the jukebox, and order up a Route 66 bacon

cheeseburger and a root beer float. Unfortunately, service here can be very

unpredictable.

105 E. Andy Devine Ave. www.mrdzrt66diner.com. 928/718-0066. Main courses $5.75–$18.

AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.

307

THE FOUR

7 CORNERS

REGION:

LAND OF THE HOPI & NAVAJO

Ready for a little trivia quiz? Where in the U.S. can you stand in

four states at the same time? Give up? The answer is way up

in the northeastern corner of Arizona, where this state meets

New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah. This novelty of the United

State’s westward expansion has long captured the imagina-

7

tion of vacationing families looking for some way of entertaining the kids

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

in the middle of the desert. “Hey, kids, wanna have your picture taken in

four states at the same time?”

Known as Four Corners, this spot is the site of a Navajo Tribal Park. The term

also refers to this entire region, most of which is Navajo and Hopi reservation

land. The Four Corners region happens to have some of the most spectacular

landscapes in the state, with majestic mesas, rainbow-hued deserts, towering

buttes, multicolored cliffs, deep canyons, a huge cliff-rimmed reservoir, and even

a meteorite crater. Among the most dramatic landscape features are the 1,000-

foot buttes of Monument Valley, which for years have symbolized the Wild West

of John Wayne movies and car commercials.

Intr

The Four Corners region is also home to Arizona’s most scenic reservoir,

oduction

Lake Powell, a flooded version of the Grand Canyon. Although a half-century ago

there was a bitter fight over damming Glen Canyon to form Lake Powell, today

the lake is among the most popular attractions in the Southwest.

Be forewarned, however: The Four Corners region also claims some of the

most desolate, wind-swept, and monotonous landscapes in the state, so be sure

to fill up on both gas and coffee before heading out on the highway for another

100-mile drive to the next destination.

While this region certainly offers plenty of scenery, it also provides one of

the nation’s most fascinating cultural experiences. This is Native American coun-

try, the homeland of both the Navajo and the Hopi, tribes that have lived on these

lands for hundreds of years and have adapted different means of surviving in this

arid region. The Navajo, with their traditional log homes (called hogans) scat-

tered across the countryside, were herders of sheep, goats, and cattle. The Hopi,

on the other hand, congregated in villages atop mesas and built houses of stone.

Today, the Hopi still grow corn and other crops at the foot of their mesas in much

the same way the indigenous peoples of the Southwest have done for centuries.

These two tribes are only the most recent Native Americans to inhabit what

to the casual observer seems to be a desolate, barren wilderness. The Ancestral

Puebloans (formerly called Anasazis) left their mark in countless canyons

throughout the Four Corners region. Their cliff dwellings date back 700 years or

more, and here in Arizona, the most spectacular ruins are in Canyon de Chelly

and Navajo National Monument. No one is certain why the Ancestral Puebloans

abandoned their cliff dwellings in the 13th century. With no written record, their

disappearance may forever remain a mystery.

previous page: A Navajo man prepares to perform at a powwow.

309

7

oduction

Intr

Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona meet in Four Corners.

The Hopi, who claim the Ancestral Puebloans as their ancestors, have for

centuries lived atop mesas in northeastern Arizona, and Oraibi, on Third Mesa,

may be the oldest continuously inhabited community in the U.S. Most of the vil-

lages are built on three mesas, known simply as First Mesa, Second Mesa, and

Third Mesa, which are numbered from east to west and are completely sur-

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

rounded by the Navajo Nation. These villages have always maintained a great

deal of autonomy, which over the years has sometimes led to disputes between

villages. The activities of missionaries and the policies of the Bureau of Indian

Affairs have also created conflicts.

The Navajo Nation, the largest reservation in the U.S., is home to nearly

200,000 Navajos and covers an area of 26,000 square miles in northeastern Ari-

zona and parts of New Mexico and Utah. Although the reservation today has

modern towns with supermarkets, shopping centers, and hotels, many Navajos

still follow a pastoral lifestyle as herders. As you travel the roads of the reservation, you’ll frequently encounter flocks of goats and sheep, and herds of cattle

and horses. These animals have free range of the reservation and often graze

beside the highway.

Compared to such pueblo tribes as the Hopi and Zuni, the Navajo are rela-

tive newcomers to the Southwest. It’s believed that the Navajo migrated south-

ward from northern Canada beginning around 1000, arriving in the Southwest

sometime after 1400. At this time, they were still hunters and gatherers, but

contact with the pueblo tribes, which had long before adopted an agricultural

lifestyle, began to change the Navajo into farmers. When the Spanish arrived in

the Southwest in the early 17th century, the Navajo began raiding Spanish settle-

ments for horses, sheep, and goats and adopted a pastoral way of life, grazing

their herds on the high plains and the canyon bottoms.

The continued raids, made even more successful with the acquisition of

horses, put the Navajo in conflict with the Spanish settlers who were beginning

to encroach on Navajo land. In 1805, the Spanish sent a military expedition into

310

Rainbow Bridge

Glen Canyon

Mexican

Four Corners COLORADO

89

National Monument

U T A H

Nat. Rec. Area

Hat

Navajo Mountain

Navajo Tribal Park

Lake

Monument Valley

160

Lees

Page Powell

Navajo Tribal Park

Ferry

Teec

163

Antelope Canyon/

Nos Pos

89A

Lake Powell

Kayenta

Navajo Tribal Park

191

Navajo National

N E W

Monument

M E X I C O

The Four

160

Corners Region

59

12

Many

Farms

Tsaile

N A V A J O

89

HOPI INDIAN

64

Tuba

RESERVATION

I N D I A N

Canyon de Chelly

Dinosaur City

National Monument

Tracks

Moenkopi

R E S E R V A T I O N Chinle

134

To Grand Canyon

Bacavi Kykotsmovi

Nationa

l Park

264

L

Sichomovi

i

7

ttl

64

e

Hotevilla

Walpi

Oraibi

Hano

Cameron

Shungopavi

Polacca Keams Canyon

Ganado

Window

P

Second

264

A

Rock

I

Mishongnovi

N

Mesa

T

Hubbell Trading Post

ED

2

15

National Historic Site

C

D

89

o

E

lo

S

ra

E

87

191

d

R

o

T

15

40

Houck

15

River

Flagstaff

40

99

Homolovi

0

15 mi

77

PETRIFIED FOREST

17

Ruins

NATIONAL PARK

Meteor Crater

Winslow

0

15 km

the Navajo’s chief stronghold, Canyon de Chelly, and killed 115 people, who, by

some accounts, may have been all women, children, and old men. This massacre,

however, did not stop the conflicts between the Navajo and Spanish settlers.

In 1846, when this region became part of the United States, American set-

tlers encountered the same problems that the Spanish had. Military outposts

were established to protect the new settlers, and numerous unsuccessful

attempts were made to establish peace. In 1863, after continued attacks, a mili-

tary expedition led by Col. Kit Carson burned crops and homes late in the sum-

mer, effectively obliterating the Navajo’s winter food supplies. Thus defeated, the

Navajo were rounded up and herded 400 miles to an inhospitable region of New

Mexico near Fort Sumner. This trek became known as the Long Walk. Living

conditions at Fort Sumner were deplorable, and the land was unsuitable for

farming. Because they were unable to survive at Fort Sumner, the Navajo were

allowed to return to their homeland in 1868.

Upon returning home, and after continued clashes with white settlers, the

Navajo settled into a lifestyle of herding. Today, however, the Navajo have had to

turn to many different livelihoods. Although weaving and silver work have

become lucrative businesses for some craftspeople, the amount of money these

trades garner for the tribe as a whole is not significant. Many Navajos now take

jobs as migrant workers. Gas and oil leases and coal mining on the reservation

provide additional income.

311

Although the reservation covers an immense area, much of it is of little

value other than as scenery. Fortunately, the Navajo have recognized the income

potential of their spectacular land. Monument Valley is operated as a tribal park,

as is the Four Corners monument. Numerous Navajo-owned tour companies

also operate on the reservation.

7

As you travel the reservation, you may notice small hexagonal buildings with

rounded roofs. These are hogans, the traditional homes of the Navajo, and are

usually made of wood and earth with the doorway facing east to greet the new

day. At the Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument visitor centers,

you can look inside hogans that are part of the parks’ exhibits. If you take a tour

at Canyon de Chelly or Monument Valley, you may have an opportunity to visit a

privately owned hogan. Although most Navajos now live in modest houses or

ners Region

manufactured homes, a family usually has a hogan for religious ceremonies.

The Navajo and Hopi reservations cover a vast area and are laced with a

network of well-paved roads, as well as many unpaved roads that are not always

passable to cars without four-wheel-drive. Because distances are great, keep your

gas tank filled, and keep an eye out for livestock on the road, especially at night.

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona (Winslow): While the corner

inspired by the Eagles’ hit song is a big draw in this small town, the real reason

ravel Experiences in the Four Cor

to visit Winslow is the opportunity to stay at La Posada, a historic 1930 Santa

Fe Railroad hotel, and visit nearby Rock Art Ranch and Meteor Crater. See

p. 348.

Exploring a Triassic park (Holbrook): At Petrified Forest National Park, you

The Best T

won’t have to run from velociraptors, but you will be able to marvel at massive

petrified logs and, in the park’s Rainbow Forest Museum, fossilized giant rep-

tiles. See p. 327.

Shakin’ and bakin’ in Canyon de Chelly (Chinle): While you can hire a

Navajo guide to take you into Canyon de Chelly on foot or horseback, you’ll

see much more of this maze of canyons if you explore it by Jeep or on one of

the “shake and bake” truck tours. See p. 339.

Hiking to an ancient cliff dwelling (Navajo National Monument): Betatakin

and Keet Seel, the two main Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings in Navajo

National Monument, can only be reached by long hikes, which means you

won’t have to jostle with hordes of tourists. See p. 341.

Riding a horse through Monument Valley (Kayenta): No other landscape is

as iconic of the Wild West as that of Monument Valley, first made famous in

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

the films of John Ford. To ride a horse in the shadows of the valley’s monu-

mental mesas, buttes, and spires is to ride into the West of the silver screen.

See p. 345.

Dropping into a slot canyon (Page): Explore one of the two easily accessible

sections of Antelope Canyon or hire a guide to take you to one of the area’s

lesser known slot canyons. These narrow clefts carved into colorful sandstone

are filled with a beautiful eerie light. See p. 353.

312

WINSLOW

55 miles E of Flagstaff; 70 miles S of Second Mesa; 33 miles W of Holbrook

It’s hard to imagine that a town could build its tourist fortunes on a mention in a

pop song, but that is exactly what Winslow did for decades after the band the

Eagles sang about “standin’ on a corner in Winslow, Arizona,” in their hit song

“Take It Easy.” On the corner of Second Street and Kinsley Avenue, the town 7

even has an official Standin’ on the Corner Park (complete with a mural of a girl

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

in a flatbed Ford).

Popular songs aside, Winslow can claim a couple of more significant attrac-

tions. Right in town is the beautifully restored La Posada, one of the Southwest’s

historic railroad hotels. Twenty miles west of town is mile-wide Meteor Crater,

and east of town is one of the most important petroglyph sites in the Southwest.

Northeast of town is Homolovi Ruins State Park, which preserves numerous

archaeological sites once inhabited by ancestral Hopis. If you happen to be a rock

climber, you’ll find great climbing routes in the Moenkopi section of Jacks Can-

yon south of town.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Winslow is on I-40 at the junction with Ariz. 87, which leads

north to the Hopi mesas and south to Payson. Amtrak ( 800/872-7245)

trains stop in Winslow at La Posada hotel, 501 E. Second St.

Winslow

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Winslow Chamber of Commerce, 523

W. Second St. ( 928/289-2434; www.winslowarizona.org), which is

housed in the town’s restored Hubbell Trading Post.

Exploring the Winslow Area

In downtown Winslow, near that famous corner, you’ll find the little Old Trails

Museum, 212 Kinsley Ave., at Second Street ( 928/289-5861; www.old trailsmuseum.org), which is something of a community attic and has exhibits on

Route 66 and the Harvey Girls (who once worked in the nearby La Posada hotel;

see the box “Fred Harvey & His Girls,” later in this chapter). The museum is

open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Admission is free.

Even if you aren’t planning on staying the night at the restored La Posada,

303 E. Second St. ( 928/289-4366), be sure to stop by just to see this historic railway hotel. Self-guided tours are available for a $3 donation.

Also be sure to check out the SNOWDRIFT Art Space, 120 W. Second

St. ( 928/289-8201; www.snowdriftart.com), an art gallery/studio owned by

artist Dan Lutzick, who was one of the people who helped get the historic La

Posada hotel up and running again.

Outlying Attractions

On the windswept plains northeast of Winslow, 11⁄4 miles north of I-40 at exit 257,

is Homolovi State Park ( 928/289-4106; www.azstateparks.com), which preserves more than 300 Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites, several of which

have been partially excavated. Although these ruins are not nearly as impressive as

those at Wupatki or Walnut Canyon, a visit here will give you a better understand-

ing of the interrelationship of the many ancient pueblos of this region. The park is open daily from 8am to 5pm (closed Christmas). Admission is $7.

313

Communing with the Spirits of the Past

Rock Art Ranch

( 928/386-5047

and because these petroglyphs span

or 928/288-3260), a privately owned

more than 8,000 years, this is considered

historic site southeast of Winslow, is the

one of the world’s most important collec-

7 finest rock-art site in the state. It’s

tions of petroglyphs. Tours are available

located on part of the old Hashknife

Monday through Saturday by reservation

Outfit, which was the largest ranch in the

and cost $25 to $35 per person depend-

country during the late 19th century. The

ing on the number in your group. Also on

setting, the narrow little Chevelon Can-

the ranch are a museum of Ancestral

inslow

yon, which is almost invisible until you are

Puebloan artifacts and a bunkhouse that

W right beside it, is absolutely enchanting. dates from the Hashknife days. If you’re Pecked into the canyon’s walls are hun-interested in petroglyphs, Rock Art Ranch

dreds of Ancestral Puebloan petroglyphs,

should not be missed.

Continuing north from the state park, you’ll find the little-known and little-

visited Little Painted Desert , a 660-acre county park. To reach the park and its viewpoint overlooking the painted hills of this stark yet colorful landscape,

continue north on Ariz. 87 from Homolovi Ruins State Park for another 12 miles.

If you’re a rock climber and want to take on some of the most challenging

walls in Arizona, head 30 miles south from Winslow on Ariz. 87 to Jacks Can-

yon. Here, in a small canyon carved out of an otherwise featureless landscape, you’ll find more nearly 300 climbing routes on the limestone walls that form this

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

stretch of canyon. About 0.3 miles past milepost 314, turn right on a dirt road

and go through the gate; continue 0.3 mile and fork left; drive 0.2 mile and turn

right; continue 0.7 mile to trailhead. This road is best done in a high-clearance

vehicle and can be impassible when muddy.

The Little Painted Desert.

314

7

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Meteor Crater.

Meteor Crater NATURAL ATTRACTION Northern Arizona has more

than its fair share of natural attractions, and while most of the region’s big holes in the ground were created by the slow process of erosion, there is one hole that

has far more dramatic origins. At 550 feet deep and 21⁄2 miles in circumference,

the Barringer Meteorite Crater is the best-preserved meteorite impact crater on

Winslow

earth. The meteorite, which estimates put at roughly 150 feet in diameter, was

traveling at 40,000 mph when it slammed into the earth 50,000 years ago. Within

seconds, more than 175 million tons of rock had been displaced, leaving a gaping

crater and a devastated landscape. Today, you can stand on the rim of the crater

(there are observation decks and a short trail) and marvel at the power, equivalent

to 20 million tons of TNT, which created this otherworldly setting. In fact, so

closely does this crater resemble craters on the surface of the moon that in the

1960s, NASA came here to train Apollo astronauts.

On the rim of the crater, there’s a small museum that features exhibits on

astrogeology and space exploration, as well as a film on meteorites. On display are

a 1,400-pound meteorite and an Apollo space capsule. Throughout the day, there

are 1-hour hiking tours along the rim of the crater.

20 miles west of Winslow at exit 233 off I-40. www.meteorcrater.com. 800/289-5898 or 928/289-2362. Admission $15 adults, $14 seniors, $8 children 6–17. Memorial Day to mid-Sept daily 7am–7pm; mid-Sept to Memorial Day daily 8am–5pm. Closed Christmas.

Where to Eat

The Turquoise Room

NEW AMERICAN/SOUTHWESTERN

When Fred Harvey began his railroad hospitality career, his objective was to pro-

vide decent meals to the traveling public. (See “Fred Harvey & His Girls,” on

p. 338.) Here, in La Posada’s reincarnated dining room, chef/owner John Sharpe

prepares not just decent meals, but superb meals the likes of which you won’t

find anywhere else in northern Arizona. In summer, herbs and vegetables often

come from the hotel’s own gardens, and wild game is a specialty. Be sure to start

your meal with the sweet-corn and black-bean soup, which is actually two soups

served side by side in the same bowl to create a sort of yin-yang symbol. On

top of all this, you can watch the trains rolling by just outside the window while

you dine.

315

7

La Posada.

The Hopi Reservation At La Posada, 303 E. 2nd St. www.theturquoiseroom.net. 928/289-2888. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$13 lunch, $17–$39 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–4:15pm and 5–9pm.

Where to Stay

In addition to the following historic hotel, you’ll find lots of budget chain motels in Winslow.

La Posada

What an unexpected beauty this place is! Designed by

Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, architect of many of the buildings on the South Rim

of the Grand Canyon, this railroad hotel first opened in 1930. Colter gave La

Posada the feel of an old Spanish hacienda and even created a fictitious history

for the building. In the lobby are numerous pieces of original furniture as well as

reproductions of pieces once found in the hotel. The nicest rooms are the large

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

units named for famous guests—Albert Einstein, Howard Hughes, Harry Tru-

man, and Charles Lindbergh. The hotel’s Turquoise Room (see “Where to Eat,”

above) is by far the best restaurant in the entire Four Corners region. La Posada

is in the process of being slowly but completely restored and is reason enough to

overnight in Winslow.

303 E. 2nd St. (Rte. 66), Winslow, AZ 86047. www.laposada.org. 928/289-4366. Fax 928/289-3873. 53 units. $109–$169 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; access to nearby health club; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi, no phone.

THE HOPI RESERVATION

67 miles N of Winslow; 250 miles NE of Phoenix; 100 miles SW of Canyon de Chelly; 140 miles SE of Page/Lake Powell

The Hopi Reservation, often referred to as Hopi or sometimes Hopiland, is com-

pletely encircled by the Navajo Nation and has at its center a grouping of mesas

upon which the Hopi have lived for nearly 1,000 years. This remote region, with

its flat-topped mesas and barren landscape, is the center of the universe for the

Hopi people. Here the Hopi follow their ancient customs, and many aspects of

pueblo culture remain intact. However, much of the culture is hidden from the

view of visitors, and although the Hopi perform elaborate religious and social

316

dances throughout the year, many

of these dances are not open to

outsiders.

The mesas are home to two of

the oldest continuously inhabited

villages in North America—Walpi

and Old Oraibi. Although these two

7

communities show their age and

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

serve as a direct tie to the pueblos of

the Ancestral Puebloan culture,

most of the villages on the reserva-

tion are scattered collections of

modern homes. These villages are

not destinations unto themselves,

but along Ariz. 264 numerous crafts

shops and studios sell kachinas, bas-

kets, pottery, and silver jewelry. The

chance to buy crafts directly from

the Hopi is the main reason for a

visit to this area, although you can The Hopi have lived in the area for almost 1,000

also take a guided tour of Walpi years.

village.

The Hopi Reservation

Important note: When visiting the Hopi pueblos, remember that you are a guest and your privileges can be revoked at any time. Respect all posted signs

at village entrances, and remember that photographing, sketching, and recording

are prohibited in the villages and at ceremonies. Also, kivas (ceremonial rooms) and ruins are off-limits.

Essentials

GETTING THERE This is one of the state’s most remote regions. Distances are

great, but highways are generally in good condition. Ariz. 87 leads from

Winslow to Second Mesa, and Ariz. 264 runs from Tuba City in the west to

the New Mexico state line in the east.

VISITOR INFORMATION For advance information, contact the Hopi Cultural

Preservation Office, P.O. Box 123, Kykotsmovi, AZ 86039 ( 928/734-

3612; www.nau.edu/hcpo-p). The Moenkopi Legacy Inn’s website (www.

experiencehopi.com) is another good place to find information on visiting

the Hopi reservation.

The Villages

With the exception of Upper and Lower Moenkopi, which are near the Navajo

town of Tuba City, and the recently settled Yuh Weh Loo Pah Ki community east

of Keams Canyon, the Hopi villages are scattered along roughly 20 miles of Ariz.

264. Although Old Oraibi is the oldest, there are no official tours of this village, and visitors are not likely to feel very welcome here. Consequently, Walpi, one of

only two villages with organized tours, is the best place for visitors to learn more about life in the Hopi villages. I mention all of the Hopi villages below to provide a bit of history and perspective on this area, but for the most part, these villages (with the exception of Walpi and Old Oraibi) are not at all picturesque. However,

most do have quite a few crafts galleries and stores selling silver jewelry.

317

FIRST MESA At the top of First Mesa is the village of Walpi, parts of which today still look much like the ruins of Ancestral Puebloan villages in such

locations as Canyon de Chelly, Navajo National Monument, and Wupatki

National Monument. Small stone houses seem to grow directly from the

rock of the mesa top, and ladders jut from the roofs of kivas. The view from

7

the village stretches for hundreds of miles, and it is easy to see why the Hopi

settled on this spot. Walpi was originally located lower on the slopes of First

Mesa, but after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 brought on fear of reprisal from

the Spanish, villagers moved to the top of the mesa so that they could better

defend themselves in the event of a Spanish attack.

Immediately adjacent to Walpi are the two villages of Sichomovi,

which was founded in 1750 as a colony of Walpi, and Hano, which was

founded by Tewa peoples who were most likely seeking refuge from the

Spanish after the Pueblo Revolt. Neither of these villages has the ancient

character of Walpi. At the foot of First Mesa is Polacca, a settlement

The Hopi Reservation

founded in the late 1800s by Walpi villagers who wanted to be closer to the

trading post and school.

SECOND MESA Second Mesa is today the center of tourism in Hopi and is

where you’ll find the Hopi Cultural Center. Villages on Second Mesa

include Shungopavi, which was moved to its present site after Old Shun-

gopavi was abandoned in 1680 following the Pueblo Revolt (it no longer

exists). Old Shungopavi is said to have been the first Hopi village and was

founded by the Bear Clan. Shungopavi is notable for its silver jewelry and its

coiled plaques (flat baskets).

Mishongnovi, which means “place of the black man,” is named for

the leader of a clan that came here from the San Francisco Peaks around

1200. The original Mishongnovi village, located at the base of the mesa, was

abandoned in the 1690s, and the village was reestablished at the current

site atop the mesa. The Snake Dance is held here during odd-numbered

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

years. It is doubtful that these dances will be open to non-Hopis, although

you could check with the Hopi Cultural Preservation Office (see “Visitor

Information,” above).

Sipaulovi, which is located on the eastern edge of the mesa, was

founded after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680.

THIRD MESA Oraibi, which the Hopi claim is the oldest continuously occu-

pied town in the United States, is located on Third Mesa. The village dates

from 1150 and, according to legend, was founded by people from Old

Shungopavi. A Spanish mission was established in Oraibi in 1629, and the

ruins are still visible north of the village. Today, Oraibi is a mix of old stone

houses and modern ones, mostly constructed of cinder blocks. Wander

around Oraibi, and you’ll likely be approached by village women and chil-

dren offering to sell you various local crafts. You may also be invited into

someone’s home to see the crafts they have to offer. For this reason, Old

Oraibi is the most interesting village in which to shop for local crafts.

For centuries, Oraibi was the largest of the Hopi villages, but in 1906,

a schism arose due to Bureau of Indian Affairs policies, and many of the vil-

lagers left to form Hotevilla. This is considered the most conservative of

the Hopi villages and has had frequent confrontations with the federal gov-

ernment. Kykotsmovi, also known as Lower Oraibi or New Oraibi, was

founded in 1890 by villagers from Oraibi who wanted to be closer to the

318

school and trading post. This village is the seat of the Hopi Tribal Govern-

ment. Bacavi was founded in 1907 by villagers who had helped found

Hotevilla but who later decided that they wanted to return to Oraibi. The

people of Oraibi would not let them return, and rather than go back to

Hotevilla, they founded a new village.

MOENKOPI This village is 40 miles to the west of the Hopi mesas. Founded in

7

1870 by people from Oraibi, Moenkopi sits in the center of a wide green

valley where plentiful water makes farming more reliable. Moenkopi is only

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

a few miles from Tuba City off U.S. 160 and is divided into the villages of

Upper Moenkopi and Lower Moenkopi.

Dances & Ceremonies

The Hopi have developed the most complex religious ceremonies of any of the

Southwest tribes. The annual Hopi ceremonial calendar begins in November

with Wuwuchim, the first of a three-part celebration of creation. The masked kachina dances for which the Hopi are most famous begin in December with the

Soyal ceremony and continue until July. During February, Powamu, the Bean Dance is performed. In June and July, there are kachina dances in village plazas

across the Hopi mesas, concluding with Niman, the Home Dance. The Snake

Dance (closed to the non-Hopi public) is held in August. Also in August and early

September, there is the Butterfly Dance, which is usually performed by children.

The Hopi Reservation

In September and October, there are women’s basket dances. Most kachina

dances are closed to the non-Hopi public, but some villages allow the public to

attend if they abide by certain restrictions (no cameras, or cell phones, for exam-

ple). A variety of social dances (usually open to the public) are held August

through February.

Due to the disrespectful attitude

of some past visitors, many ceremonies

and dances are now closed to non-

Hopis. However, some Hopi villages do

allow visitors to attend some of their

dances. The best way to find out about

attending dances is to contact the

Hopi Cultural Preservation office

(see “Visitor Information,” above) or to

ask locally. Who knows? You might get

lucky and be allowed to attend.

Whether in the form of masked

dancers or wooden dolls, kachinas are

representative of the spirits of every-

thing from plants and animals to ances-

tors and sacred places. More than 300

kachinas appear on a regular basis in

Hopi ceremonies, and another 200

appear occasionally. The kachina spir-

its are said to live in the San Francisco

Peaks to the southwest and at Spring

of the Shadows in the east. According More than 300 kachina spirits appear in Hopi

to legend, the kachinas lived with the ceremonies.

319

Hopi long ago, but the Hopi people made the kachinas angry, causing them to

leave. Before departing, though, the kachinas taught the Hopi how to perform

their ceremonies.

Today, the kachina ceremonies, performed by men wearing elaborate cos-

tumes and masks, serve several purposes. Most important, they bring clouds and

7 rain to water the all-important corn crop, but they also ensure health, happiness, long life, and harmony in the universe. As part of the kachina ceremonies, dancers often bring carved wooden kachina dolls to village children to introduce them

to the various spirits.

The kachina season lasts from the winter solstice until shortly after the

summer solstice, and the actual dates for dances are usually announced only

shortly before the ceremonies are to be held. Preparations for the dances take

place inside kivas that are entered from the roof by means of a ladder; the dances

themselves are usually held in a village square or street.

With ludicrous and sometimes lewd mimicry, clowns known as koyemsi,

The Hopi Reservation koshares, and tsukus entertain spectators between the dances, bringing a light-hearted counterpoint to the very serious nature of the kachina dances. Non-

Hopis attending dances have often become the focus of attention for these

clowns.

Despite the importance of the kachina dances, it is the Snake Dance that

has captured the attention of many non-Hopis. The Snake Dance involves the

handling of both poisonous and nonpoisonous snakes. The ceremony takes place

over 16 days, with the first 4 days dedicated to collecting snakes from the four

cardinal directions. Later, footraces are held from the bottom of the mesa to the

top. On the last day of the ceremony, the actual Snake Dance is performed. Men

of the Snake Society form pairs of dancers—one to carry the snake in his mouth

and the other to distract the snake with an eagle feather. When all the snakes

have been danced around the plaza, they are rushed down to their homes at the

bottom of the mesa to carry the Hopi prayers for rain to the spirits of the

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

underworld.

Exploring the Hopi Reservation

Start your visit to the Hopi pueblos at the Hopi Cultural Center Museum, on

Ariz. 264 in Second Mesa ( 928/734-6650), where you can learn a bit about

the Hopi people and their long history in the region. This little museum is open

Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to

3pm (closed weekends in the winter). Admission is $3 for adults and $1 for chil-

dren 13 and under.

From here, it’s just a few miles to the Second Mesa village of Sipaulovi and the

Sipaulovi Hopi Information Center ( 928/737-5426; www.sipaulovihopi

informationcenter.org). At the visitor center, you can watch a 20-minute video

about the Hopi culture and arrange for a 1-hour walking tour of Sipaulovi. Tours

are offered Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm and cost $15 for adults,

$12 for seniors, and $10 for children ages 10 to 17.

The most rewarding Hopi village to visit is Walpi , on First Mesa. Guided

tours of this tiny village are usually offered Friday through Monday between 9am

and 3pm and Tuesday and Thursday between 8am and 4pm. Admission is $15

for adults, $10 for youths age 14 to 17, and $5 for children 5 to 13. To sign up

for a tour, drive to the top of First Mesa (in Polacca, take the road that says first mesa village) and continue through the village to Ponsi Hall Visitor Center

320

( 928/737-2262), where you’ll see signs for the tours. The tours, which last about 90 minutes, are led by Hopis who will tell you the history of the village and

explain a bit about the local culture.

About 11⁄2 miles north of the community of Keams Canyon, in the pretty

little canyon for which this historic community is named, you’ll find, carved into

the stone walls of the canyon, an inscription left by Colonel “Kit” Carson. It was

Carson who led the war on the Navajo during the summer of 1863 and who, to 7

defeat the tribe, burned their crops, effectively leaving the Navajo with no winter

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

supplies. The inscription reads simply, “1st Regt. N.M. Vols. Aug 13th 1863 Col.

C. Carson Com.” To find the inscription, turn off Ariz. 264 in Keams Canyon and

drive north on the main road through the community. You’ll also find some picnic

tables along this road.

Organized Tours

To get the most out of a visit to the Hopi mesas, it is best to take a guided tour.

With a guide, you will learn much more about this rather insular culture than you

ever could on your own. Tour companies frequently use local guides and stop at

the homes of working artisans. This all adds up to a more in-depth and educa-

tional visit to one of the oldest cultures on the continent.

Bertram Tsavadawa at Ancient Pathways Tours ( 928/797-8145;

http://ancientpathwaystours.com) specializes in tours to Hopi petroglyph sites.

The Hopi Reservation

These are sites that are not open to the public unless you are with a Hopi guide.

Three-hour tours cost $75 for adults and $35 for children under 18; 6-hour tours

cost $165 for adults and $85 for children. One-hour tours of Old Oraibi ($15)

can also be arranged. Micah Loma’omvaya of Hopi Tours ( 800/774-0830

or 928/206-7433; www.hopitours.com) offers 1-hour tours of Oraibi for $25 per

person, 2-hour petroglyph tours for $35 per person, 3-hour driving tours for $50

per person, and 4-hour rock art tours for $65 per person. Half-day and full-day

tours are also available. Half-day and full-day tours are also offered by Gary Tso

of the Left-Handed Hunter Tour Company ( 928/734-2567 or 928/206-

7928; lhhunter68@hopitelecom.net). Half-day tours cost $160 for two people,

and full-day tours cost $265 for two people.

Shopping

Most visitors come to the reservation to shop for Hopi crafts. Across the reserva-

tion, dozens of small shops sell crafts and jewelry of different quality, and some

homes, especially at the foot of First Mesa, have signs indicating that they sell

crafts. Shops often sell the work of only a few individuals, so you should stop at

several to get an idea of the variety of work available. Also, if you tour Walpi or

wander around in Oraibi, you will likely be approached by villagers selling various

crafts, including kachina dolls. The quality will not be as high as that in shops,

but then, the prices won’t be as high either.

At Keams Canyon, 30 miles east of Second Mesa on Ariz. 264, you’ll find

McGee’s Indian Art Gallery ( 928/738-2295; www.hopiart.com), which is the best place on the reservation to shop for high-quality contemporary kachina

dolls. The first trading post to open on this site was built in 1879, and the McGee

family has owned the business since 1937. The gallery is adjacent to a grocery

store that is the current incarnation of the old trading post.

If you’re in the market for Hopi silver jewelry, stop in at Hopi Fine Arts

( 928/737-2222), which is at the foot of Second Mesa at the junction of Ariz.

321

Eat Local, Shop Local

The Hopi and Navajo reservations both

particularly small, wooden dolls.

offer some interesting opportunities to

Throughout the Hopi Reservation, you’ll

eat locally and shop locally, and in so

see signs in front of people’s homes

7 doing patronize small businesses and

advertising traditional crafts for sale. On

individuals, which is one of the key

the Navajo Nation, you can sample tradi-

aspects of eco-travel. On the Hopi reser-

tional foods at the Ch’ihootso Indian

vation, residents of the village of Walpi

Marketplace in Window Rock (p. 333).

lead tours of this ancient cliff-top village

The steam corn soup served at several of

(p. 321). On these walking tours, you’re

the little food vendors’ stalls here is a

likely to be approached by village resi-

particular favorite of local families. Also,

dents selling handicrafts and sometimes

anywhere on the Navajo Nation where

traditional piki bread. The latter, a paper-

there is a scenic view, you’ll find jewelry

thin bread made from blue corn, has long

vendors set up by the side of the road.

been a staple food of the Hopi. If you

Although I have never found much worth

The Hopi Reservation wander around the village of Old Oraibi, buying at these stalls, I know people who you’re also likely to be approached by

have gotten attractive turquoise

village residents selling handicrafts,

earrings.

264 and Ariz. 87. This shop also has a good selection of kachina dolls and some

beautiful coil and wicker plaque baskets. Hours are limited in the winter.

One of the best places to get a quick education in Hopi art and crafts is

Tsakurshovi ( 928/734-2478), a tiny shop 11⁄2 miles east of the Hopi Cultural Center on Second Mesa. This shop has a huge selection of traditional

kachina dolls and also has lots of jewelry. The owners are very friendly and are

always happy to share their expertise with visitors. This is also where you can buy

a “Don’t Worry, Be Hopi” T-shirt.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

If you’re interested in kachina dolls, be sure to visit Oraibi’s Monongya

Gallery ( 928/734-2344), a big building right on Ariz. 264 outside of Oraibi.

It usually has one of the largest selections of kachina dolls in the area.

Where to Stay & Eat

If you’ve brought your food along, look for the picnic tables just east of Oraibi on top of the mesa. These tables have an amazing view!

Hopi Cultural Center Restaurant & Inn Although it isn’t much, this sim-

ple motel is one of only two accommodations on the Hopi reservation. While the

Moenkopi Legacy Inn in Moenkopi/Tuba City is newer and more comfortable,

the Hopi Cultural Center is more centrally located if you are planning to spend

a couple of days shopping for crafts in the area. Guest rooms are comfortable

enough, though the grounds are quite desolate. The restaurant menu includes

some traditional dishes, including Hopi stew, which is made with hominy, lamb,

and green chili. There’s also a small museum on the grounds. Because it is the

only lodging for miles around, be sure you have a reservation before heading up

for an overnight visit.

P.O. Box 67, Second Mesa, AZ 86043. www.hopiculturalcenter.com. 928/734-2401. Fax 928/734-6651. 30 units. Mar 15–Oct 15 $101–$105 double; Oct 16–Mar 14 $81–$85 double.

Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50

deposit). Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

322

Moenkopi Legacy Inn & Suites With a facade designed to resemble a

Hopi village, the Moenkopi Legacy Inn in Tuba City is by far the best hotel in the

area. The lobby, with its peeled-log columns, stone chimney, and soaring ceiling,

is reminiscent of the interiors of traditional Hopi homes, and incorporates

numerous traditional Hopi symbols. Guest rooms are large, comfortable, and

modern, and feature old photos of Hopi villages. In the courtyard, there’s a small

artificial stream beside the swimming pool. There’s a small gift shop off the lobby, 7

and display cases feature works by local artists and artisans.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

P.O. Box 2260, Tuba City, AZ 86045. www.experiencehopi.com. 928/283-4500. Fax 928/283-4499. 100 units. $89–$129 double; $105–$179 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Lounge (no alcohol served); exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor saltwater pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Quality Inn Navajo Nation Located in the bustling Navajo community of

Tuba City (where you’ll find gas stations, fast-food restaurants, and grocery

stores), this modern hotel is adjacent to the historic Tuba City Trading Post. The

hotel offers comfortable rooms of average size, but the green lawns, shade trees,

and old trading post (complete with hogan) are what really set this place apart.

This hotel is also adjacent to the Explore Navajo Interactive Museum (see

below). The nearby Moenkopi Legacy Inn may be newer, but the trading post

and museum here make this a more interesting choice in the area.

10 N. Main St. (P.O. Box 247), Tuba City, AZ 86045. www.explorenavajo.com. 800/644-8383

The Hopi Reservation

or 928/283-4545. Fax 928/283-4144. 80 units. Apr–Oct $108–$153 double; Nov–Mar $88–$123

double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Side Trips

On the west side of the reservation, in Tuba City, is the Tuba City Trading Post, Main Street and Moenave Avenue ( 928/283-5441). This octagonal trading

post was built in 1906 of local stone and is designed to resemble a Navajo hogan or

traditional home (there’s also a real hogan on the grounds). The trading post sells

Native American crafts, with an emphasis on books, music, and jewelry. Across the

parking lot from the trading post, you’ll find Hogan Espresso, Main Street and Moenave Avenue ( 800/644-8383 or 928/283-4545), one of the few places on

the reservation where you can get espresso. It’s open Monday to Friday from 7am

to 7pm and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 7pm. Behind the trading post, you’ll

find the Explore Navajo Interactive Museum, 10 N. Main St. ( 928/640-

0684; www.explorenavajo.com), a small museum in a tentlike structure that was used at the 2002 Salt Lake City Olympics. Although small, the museum provides

a good introduction to Navajo culture. There is also a good Navajo code talkers

exhibit here. In summer, the museum is open Monday through Saturday 8am to

6pm and Sunday noon to 6pm; call for hours in other months. Admission is $9

for adults, $7 for seniors, and $6 for children ages 7 to 12.

On the western outskirts of Tuba City, on U.S. 160, you’ll find Van’s Trad-

ing Co. ( 928/283-5343), in the corner of a large grocery store. Van’s has a dead-pawn auction on the 15th of each month at 3pm (any pawned item not

reclaimed by the owner by a specified date is considered “dead pawn”). The auc-

tion provides opportunities to buy older pieces of Navajo silver-and-turquoise

jewelry.

323

A NATIVE AMERICAN crafts PRIMER

The Four Corners region is taken up almost entirely by the Navajo and Hopi reserva-

tions, so Native American crafts are ubiquitous. You’ll see jewelry for sale by the side of desolate roads, Navajo rugs in tiny trading posts, and Hopi kachinas being sold

7

out of village homes. The information below will help you make an informed

purchase.

Hopi Kachina Dolls These elaborately

after World War II, when the GI Bill pro-

decorated wooden dolls are representa-

vided funds for former soldiers to study

tions of the spirits of plants, animals,

silversmithing at a school founded by

ancestors, and sacred places. Tradition-

Hopi artist Fred Kabotie. The overlay

ally, they were given to children to initiate

process basically uses two sheets of

them into the pantheon of kachina spirits,

silver, one with a design cut from it.

which play important roles in ensuring

Heat fuses the two sheets, forming a

rain and harmony in the universe. Kachi-

raised image. Designs often borrow

The Hopi Reservation nas have long been popular with colec- from other Hopi crafts such as basketry tors, and Hopi carvers have changed their

and pottery, and from ancient Ancestral

style over the years to cater to the collec-

Puebloan pottery. Belt buckles, earrings,

tors’ market. Older kachinas were carved

bolo ties, and bracelets are all popular.

from a single piece of cottonwood,

Hopi Baskets On Third Mesa, wicker

sometimes with arms simply painted on.

plaques and baskets are made from

This older style is much simpler and

rabbit brush and sumac, and colored

stiffer than the contemporary style that

with bright aniline dyes. On Second

emphasizes action poses and realistic

Mesa, coiled plaques and baskets are

proportions. A great deal of carving and

created from dyed yucca fibers. Through-

painting goes into each kachina, and

out the reservation, yucca-fiber sifters

prices today are in the hundreds of dol-

are made by plaiting over a willow ring.

lars for even the simplest. The tsuku, or

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

clown kachinas, which are usually painted

Hopi Pottery Contemporary Hopi

with bold horizontal black-and-white

pottery tends toward geometric designs

stripes and are often depicted in humor-

and comes in a variety of styles, includ-

ous situations or carrying slices of water-

ing a yellow-orange ware decorated with

melon, are popular with tourists and

black-and-white designs and white pot-

collectors. In the past few years, young

tery with red-and-black designs. Nam-

carvers have been returning to the tradi-

peyo, who died in 1942, is the most

tional style of kachina, so it’s now easier

famous Hopi potter and is credited with

to find these simpler images for sale.

bringing Hopi pottery to the attention of

collectors. Today, members of the Nam-

Hopi Overlay Silver Work Most Hopi

peyo family are still active as potters.

silver work is done in the overlay style,

Most pottery is produced on First Mesa.

which was introduced to tribal artisans

About 17 miles southeast of Tuba City on U.S. 264, you’ll find the fascinat-

ing and little-visited Coal Mine Canyon. With its colorful bands of color and wind-sculpted canyon walls, this is a sort of Grand Canyon in miniature. On the

rim of the canyon, you’ll find picnic tables and rough hiking trails that lead out

onto eroded promontories overlooking the maze-like canyon. To find this

unmarked geologic wonder, watch for milepost 337. A quarter mile east of this

324

A NATIVE AMERICAN crafts PRIMER

Navajo Silver Work Whereas the

horseshoe-shape pendant, is one of the

Hopi create overlay silver work from

most distinctive Navajo designs.

sheets of silver and the Zuni use silver

Navajo Rugs After the Navajo acquired

work simply as a base for their skilled

sheep and goats from the Spanish, they

7

lapidary or stone-cutting work, Navajo

learned weaving from the pueblo tribes,

silversmiths highlight the silver itself.

and by the early 1800s, their weavings

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Silversmithing caught on with Navajo

were widely recognized as being the

men in the 1880s, when Lorenzo Hub-

finest in the Southwest. Women were

bell, who had established a trading post

the weavers among the Navajo, and

in the area, hired Mexican silversmiths

they primarily wove blankets. However,

as teachers. The earliest pieces of

by the end of the 19th century, the craft

Navajo jewelry were replicas of Spanish

was beginning to die out as it became

ornaments, but as the Navajo silver-

more economical to purchase ready-

smiths became more proficient, they

made blankets. When Lorenzo Hubbell

began to develop their own designs.

set up his trading post, he recognized a

The squash-blossom necklace, with its

potential market in the East for the

woven blankets—if they could be made

heavy enough to be used as rugs.

Although today the cost of Navajo rugs,

The Hopi Reservation

which take hundreds of hours to make,

has become almost prohibitively expen-

sive, there are still enough women prac-

ticing the craft to keep it alive.

There are more than 15 regional

styles of rugs, but there is also quite a

bit of overlapping and borrowing of

designs. Bigger and bolder patterns are

likely to cost quite a bit less than very

complex and highly detailed patterns.

The best rugs are those made with

homespun yarn and natural vegetal

dyes, and some weavers use wool from

Churro sheep, which are descended

from sheep that may have been brought

to this region by Spanish settlers more

than 300 years ago. However, commer-

cially manufactured yarns and dyes are

increasingly used to keep costs down.

marker, turn north on a rough dirt road and continue a few hundred yards to a

windmill. From the windmill, head to the picnic tables on the rim of the canyon.

If you do not have a high-clearance vehicle, you can park close to the highway

and walk the short distance to the canyon overlook.

West of Tuba City and just off U.S. 160, you can see dinosaur footprints

preserved in the stone surface of the desert. There are usually a few people

325

waiting at the site to guide visitors to

the best footprints (these guides will

expect a tip of a few dollars). The scen-

ery out your car window is some of the

strangest in the region—you’ll see lots

7

of red-rock sandstone formations that

resemble petrified sand dunes.

The Cameron Trading Post

( 800/338-7385 or 928/679-2231;

www.camerontradingpost.com), 16

miles south of the junction of U.S. 160

and U.S. 89, is well worth a visit. The

main trading post is filled with souve-

nirs but has large selections of rugs

and jewelry as well. In the adjacent

est & Painted Desert

stone-walled gallery are museum-

quality Native American artifacts

(with prices to match). The trading

Dinosaur footprints can be seen west of

post includes a motel, convenience

Tuba City.

store, and gas station.

The Petrified For THE PETRIFIED FOREST &

PAINTED DESERT

25 miles E of Holbrook; 90 miles E of Flagstaff; 118 miles S of Canyon de Chelly; 180 miles N of Phoenix

Petrified wood has long fascinated people, and although it can be found in almost

every state, the “forest” of downed logs in northeastern Arizona is by far the most

extensive. But don’t head out this way expecting to see standing trees of stone

with leaves and branches intact. Although there is enough petrified timber scat-

tered across this landscape to fill a forest, it is, in fact, in the form of broken logs and not standing trees. Many a visitor has shown up expecting to find some sort

of national forest of stone trees. The reality is much less impressive than the pet-

rified forest of the imagination.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

However, this area is still unique. When, in the 1850s, this vast treasure-

trove of petrified wood was discovered, scattered like stone kindling across the

landscape, enterprising people began exporting it wholesale to the East. Within

50 years, so much had been removed that in 1906 several areas were set aside as

the Petrified Forest National Monument, which, in 1962, became a national

park. A 27-mile scenic drive winds through the petrified forest (and a small cor-

ner of the Painted Desert), providing a fascinating high-desert experience.

It may be hard to believe as you drive across this arid landscape, but at one

time this area was a vast steamy swamp. That was 225 million years ago, when

dinosaurs and huge amphibians ruled the earth and giant now-extinct trees grew

on the high ground around the swamp. Fallen trees were washed downstream,

gathered in piles in quiet backwaters, and eventually were covered over with silt,

mud, and volcanic ash. As water seeped through this soil, it dissolved the silica in the volcanic ash and redeposited it inside the cells of the logs. Eventually, the

silica recrystallized into stone to form petrified wood, with minerals such as iron, manganese, and carbon contributing the distinctive colors.

326

This region was later inundated with water, and thick deposits of sediment

buried the logs ever deeper. Eventually, the land was transformed yet again as a

geologic upheaval thrust the lake bottom up above sea level. This upthrust of the

land cracked the logs into the segments we see today. Wind and water gradually

eroded the landscape to create the Painted Desert, and the petrified logs were

once again exposed on the surface of the land.

7

Essentials

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

GETTING THERE The north entrance to Petrified Forest National Park is

25 miles east of Holbrook on I-40. The south entrance is 20 miles east of

Holbrook on U.S. 180.

FEES & HOURS The entry fee is $10 per car. Between early May and early Sep-

tember, the park is open from 7am to 7pm; late February to early May and

early September to late October, it’s open daily from 7am to 6pm; and late

October to late February, it’s open daily from 8am to 5pm.

VISITOR INFORMATION For further information on the Petrified Forest or the

Painted Desert, contact Petrified Forest National Park, 1 Park Rd. (P.O.

Box 2217), Petrified Forest, AZ 86028 ( 928/524-6228; www.nps.gov/

pefo). For information on Holbrook and the surrounding region, contact the

Holbrook Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center & Museum, 100 E.

Arizona St. ( 928/524-6558; www.holbrookchamberofcommerce.com).

The Petrified For

Exploring Petrified Forest National Park

Petrified Forest National Park has both a north and a south entrance. If you are

coming from the west, it’s better to start at the southern entrance and work your

way north along the park’s 27-mile scenic road, which has more than 20 over-

looks. This way, you’ll see the most impressive displays of petrified logs early in

est & Painted Desert

your visit and save the Painted Desert vistas for last. If you’re coming from the

east, start at the northern entrance and work your way south.

Northeastern Arizona has an extensive forest of petrified wood.

327

7

est & Painted Desert

The Giant Logs trail.

The Rainbow Forest Museum ( 928/524-6228), just inside the south

entrance to the park, is the best place to begin your tour. Here you can learn all

about petrified wood, watch an introductory film, and otherwise get oriented.

Exhibits chronicle the area’s geologic and human history. There are also displays

The Petrified For on the reptiles and dinosaurs that once inhabited this region. The museum sells maps and books and also issues free backpacking permits. Early May to early

September, it’s open daily from 7am to 7pm; early September to late October and

late February to early May, it’s open daily from 7am to 6pm; late October to late

February, it’s open from 8am to 5pm (daily). Adjacent to the museum is a snack

bar. The Giant Logs self-guided trail starts behind the museum. The trail

winds across a hillside strewn with logs that are 4 to 5 feet in diameter. Almost

directly across the parking lot from the museum is the entrance to the Long

Logs and Agate House areas. On the 1.6-mile Long Logs trail, you can see more big trees, while at Agate House, a 2-mile round-trip hike will lead you to the

ruins of a pueblo built from colorful petrified wood. These two trails can be com-

bined into a 2.5-mile hike.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Heading north, you’ll pass by the unusual formations known as the Flat-

tops. These structures were caused by the erosion of softer mineral deposits from beneath a harder and more erosion-resistant layer of sandstone. This is one

of the park’s wilderness areas. The Crystal Forest is the next stop to the north, named for the beautiful amethyst and quartz crystals once found in the cracks of

petrified logs. Concern over the removal of these crystals was what led to the

protection of the petrified forest. A .75-mile loop trail winds past the logs that

once held the crystals.

At the Jasper Forest Overlook, you can see logs that include petrified

roots, and a little bit farther north, at the Agate Bridge stop, you can see a petrified log that forms a natural agate bridge. Continuing north, you’ll reach Blue

Mesa, where pieces of petrified wood form capstones over easily eroded clay

soils. As wind and water wear away at the clay beneath a piece of stone, the bal-

ance of the stone becomes more and more precarious until it eventually comes

toppling down. A 1-mile loop trail here leads into the park’s badlands.

Erosion has played a major role in the formation of the Painted Desert, and

to the north of Blue Mesa you’ll see some of the most interesting erosional

328

features of the area. It’s quite evident why these hills of sandstone and clay are

known as the Teepees. The layers of different color are due to manganese, iron, and other minerals in the soil.

By this point, you’ve probably seen as much petrified wood as you’d ever

care to see, so be sure to stop at Newspaper Rock, where instead of staring at more ancient logs, you can see a dense concentration of petroglyphs left by generations of Native Americans. Unfortunately you can no longer get close to these

7

petroglyphs, so you’ll have to be content to observe them from a distance. At

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

nearby Puerco Pueblo, the park’s largest archaeological site, you can view the remains of homes built by the people who created the park’s petroglyphs. This

pueblo was probably occupied around a.d. 1400. Don’t miss the petroglyphs on

its back side.

North of Puerco Pueblo, the road crosses I-40. From here to the Painted

Desert Visitor Center, there are eight overlooks onto the southernmost edge of

the Painted Desert. Named for the vivid colors of the soil and stone that cover the land here, the Painted Desert is a dreamscape of pastels washed across a barren expanse of eroded hills. The colors are created by minerals dissolved in sand-

stone and clay soils that were deposited during different geologic periods. There’s

a picnic area at Chinde Point overlook. At Kachina Point, you’ll find the Painted Desert Inn, a renovated historic building that is operated as a bookstore and museum. From here, there’s access to the park’s other wilderness area. The inn,

which was built in 1924 and expanded by the Civilian Conservation Corps, is

The Petrified For

noteworthy for both its architecture and the Fred Kabotie murals on the interior

walls. Hours are 9am to 5pm daily. Between Kachina Point and Tawa Point, you

can do an easy 1-mile round-trip hike along the rim of the Painted Desert. An

even more interesting route leads down into the Painted Desert from behind the

Painted Desert Inn.

Just inside the northern entrance to the park is the Painted Desert Visitor

est & Painted Desert

Center ( 928/524-6228), which is open the same hours as the Rainbow Forest Museum (see above). Here you can watch a short film that explains the pro-

cess by which wood becomes fossilized (it’s the same film that’s shown at the

Rainbow Forest Museum). Adjacent to the visitor center are a cafeteria, a book-

shop, and a gas station.

Exploring Holbrook

Although the Petrified Forest National Park is the main reason for visiting this

area, you might want to stop by downtown Holbrook’s Old West Museum, 100

E. Arizona St. ( 928/524-6558), which also houses the Holbrook Chamber of

Commerce visitor center. This old and dusty museum has exhibits on local his-

tory but is most interesting for its old jail cells. It’s open daily from 8am to 5pm; admission is free. During the summer, there are nightly Native American dance

performances in front of the visi-

tor center.

No Smoke Signals Necessary

Although it is against the law

If you’re driving into Arizona from New Mex-

to collect petrified wood inside

ico, you can get information on the state at

Petrified Forest National Park,

the Painted Cliffs Welcome Center, Grants

there are several rock shops in

Road, Lupton ( 928/688-2448; www.arizona

Holbrook where you can buy

guide.com), which is at exit 359 off I-40. The

legally collected pieces of petrified

visitor center is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

wood in all shapes and sizes. You’ll

find them lined up along the main 329

street through town and out on U.S. 180, the highway leading to the south

entrance of Petrified Forest National Park. The biggest and best of these rock

shops is Jim Gray’s Petrified Wood Co., 147 U.S. 180 ( 928/524-1842;

www.petrifiedwoodco.com), which has everything from raw rocks to petrified-

wood coffee tables that sell for thousands of dollars. This store also has a fasci-

7 nating display of minerals and fossils and is well worth a stop.

Where to Eat

While there are plenty of inexpensive restaurants in Holbrook, none is particu-

eas

larly memorable or recommendable. Your best bet is to drive over to Winslow to

the Turquoise Room at La Posada hotel.

Where to Stay

Holbrook, the town nearest to Petrified Forest National Park, offers lots of bud-

get chain motels charging very reasonable rates.

Wigwam Motel If you’re willing to sleep on a saggy mattress for the sake

of reliving a bit of Route 66 history, don’t miss this collection of concrete wig-

indow Rock & Ganado Ar

wams. This unique motel was built in the 1940s, when unusual architecture was

springing up all along famous Route 66. The motel has been owned by the same

family since it was built and still has the original rustic furniture. Old cars are

The W kept in the parking lot for an added dose of Route 66 character.

811 W. Hopi Dr., Holbrook, AZ 86025. www.galerie-kokopelli.com/wigwam. 928/524-3048. Fax 928/524-3668. 15 units. $52–$58 double. MC, V. Pets accepted ($5 per night). In room: A/C, TV.

THE WINDOW ROCK &

GANADO AREAS

74 miles NE of Petrified Forest National Park; 91 miles E of Second Mesa; 190 miles E of Flagstaff; 68 miles SE of Canyon de Chelly National Monument

Window Rock, the capital of the Navajo Nation, is less than a mile from the New

Mexico state line and is named for a huge natural opening in a sandstone cliff just

outside town. Today, that landmark is preserved as the Window Rock Tribal

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Park, located 2 miles north of

What Time Is It?

Ariz. 264. As the Navajo Nation’s

capital, Window Rock is the site of

The Navajo Nation observes daylight saving

government offices, a museum

time, contrary to the rest of the state, so if

and cultural center, and a zoo. A

you’re coming from elsewhere in Arizona,

few miles to the west is the St.

the time here will be 1 hour later in months

Michaels Historical Museum, in

when daylight saving is in effect. The Hopi

the community of St. Michaels.

Reservation, however, does not observe

About a half-hour’s drive west of

daylight saving time, even though it is com-

St. Michaels is the Hubbell Trad-

pletely surrounded by the Navajo Nation.

ing Post, in the community of

Ganado.

Essentials

GETTING THERE To reach Window Rock from Flagstaff, take I-40 east to Lup-

ton and go north on Indian Rte. 12.

330

VISITOR INFORMATION For advance

information, contact Navajo

Tourism, P.O. Box 663, Window

Rock, AZ 86515 ( 928/871-

6436; www.discovernavajo.com).

You can also learn more about the

Navajo Nation at www.navajo

7

scenicroads.com.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

SPECIAL EVENTS Unlike the village

ceremonies of the pueblo-dwelling

Hopi, Navajo religious ceremo-

nies tend to be held in the privacy

of family hogans. However, the

public is welcome to attend the

numerous fairs, powwows, and

rodeos held throughout the year.

The biggest of these is the Navajo

Nation Fair ( 928/871-6478;

Window Rock Tribal Park.

www.navajonationfair.com), held

in Window Rock in early Septem-

ber. It features traditional dances, a rodeo, a powwow, a Miss Navajo Pag-

The W

eant, a fry-bread contest, and arts-and-crafts exhibits and sales.

Exploring the Window Rock Area

indow Rock & Ganado Ar

Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site

HISTORIC SITE

Located just outside the town of Ganado, 26 miles west of Window Rock, the

Hubbell Trading Post was established in 1876 by Lorenzo Hubbell and is the old-

est continuously operating trading post on the Navajo Nation. Hubbell did more

to popularize the arts and crafts of the Navajo people than any other person and

was in large part responsible for the revival of Navajo weaving in the late 19th

century.

Much more than just a place to trade crafts for imported goods, trading

posts were for many years the main gathering spot for meeting people from other

eas

parts of the reservation and served as a sort of gossip fence and newsroom. Hub-

bell Trading Post is still in use today, and in the trading post’s general store, you’ll see basic foodstuffs (not much variety here) and bolts of the cloth Navajo women

use for sewing their traditional skirts and blouses. However, today the trading

post is more a living museum. Visitors can explore the grounds on their own or

take a guided tour ($2), and can often watch Navajo weavers in the slow process

of creating a rug.

The rug room is filled with a variety of traditional and contemporary Navajo

pieces. And although it’s possible to buy a small 12×18-inch rug for around $100,

most cost thousands of dollars. In another room are baskets, kachinas, and jew-

elry by Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni artisans. Twice a year, usually in May and Octo-

ber, there are auctions of Native American crafts here at the trading post.

Ariz. 264, Ganado. www.nps.gov/hutr. 928/755-3475. Free admission. Apr 30–Sept 8 daily 8am–6pm; Sept 9–Apr 29 daily 8am–5pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Navajo Museum, Library & Visitor’s Center MUSEUM This museum

and cultural center is housed in a large building patterned after a traditional

331

hogan. Inside you’ll see temporary

exhibits of contemporary crafts and art,

as well as exhibits on contemporary

Navajo culture. There’s also a gift shop.

Ariz. 264 at Loop Rd. (across from the Quality

7

Inn Navajo Nation Capital), Window Rock.

928/871-7941. www.navajonationmuseum.

org. Free admission. Tues–Fri 8am–8pm; Sat

and Mon 8am–5pm.

eas

Navajo Nation Zoo & Botanical

Park ZOO Located in back of the

Quality Inn Navajo Nation Capital,

this zoo and botanical park features

animals and plants that are significant

in Navajo history and culture. Bears,

cougars, and wolves are among the

creatures you’ll see. The setting, which

indow Rock & Ganado Ar

includes several sandstone “haystack”

rocks, is very dramatic, and some of the

Hubbell Trading Post.

animal enclosures are quite large and

The W

incorporate natural rock outcroppings.

Ariz. 264, Window Rock. www.navajozoo.org. 928/871-6574. Free admission. Mon–Sat

10am–4:30pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

St. Michaels Historical Museum MUSEUM In the community of St.

Michaels, 4 miles west of Window Rock, this museum chronicles the lives and

influence of Franciscan friars who started a mission in this area in the 1670s. The

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Navajo Nation Zoo & Botanical Park.

332

museum is in a small building adjacent to the impressive stone mission church.

Back in the early years of the 20th century, a friar here photographed the Navajos

of the area, and the chance to see some of these historical photos is one of the

best reasons to visit this museum.

St. Michaels, just south of Ariz. 264. 928/871-4171. Free admission. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 9am–5pm; other months, call for hours.

7

Where to Eat

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

In Window Rock, your best bet is the Quality Inn Navajo Nation Capital (see

“Where to Stay,” below), which serves moderately priced American, Mexican,

and Navajo food. Try the Navajo tacos or mutton stew. The restaurant is open

Monday through Friday from 6am to 9pm an Saturday and Sunday from 7am to

6pm.At the Ch’ihootso Indian Marketplace ( 928/871-5443), at the

junction of Ariz. 264 and Navajo Rte. 12, you’ll find several tiny restaurants that

specialize in traditional Navajo dishes such as mutton stew and fry bread. On

weekends a crafts/flea market is in the parking lot here. Hours vary.

Shopping

The Hubbell Trading Post, although a National Historic Site, is still an active trading post and has an outstanding selection of rugs, as well as lots of jewelry

The W

(see “Exploring the Window Rock Area,” above). In Window Rock, be sure to

visit the Navajo Arts and Crafts Enterprise ( 928/871-4090; www.

indow Rock & Ganado Ar

gonavajo.com), which is next to the Quality Inn Navajo Nation Capital and has

been operating since 1941. Here you’ll find silver-and-turquoise jewelry, Navajo

rugs, baskets, pottery, and Native American clothing. The store is open Monday

through Saturday from 9am to 8pm and Sunday from noon to 6pm.

Where to Stay

Navajoland Inn & Suites This hotel is 2 miles west of Window Rock near

the historic St. Michaels Mission and is centrally located for exploring west to

the Hopi mesas, north to Canyon de Chelly, and south to Petrified Forest

eas

National Park. With its indoor pool and exercise room, this is your best bet in the

area, especially if you’re traveling with the family.

392 W. Ariz. 264, St. Michaels, AZ 86511. www.navajoland-innsuites.com. 928/871-5690. Fax 928/871-5699. 73 units. $70–$80 double; $90 suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 per day). Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

Quality Inn Navajo Nation Capital This hotel is in Window Rock, the

administrative center of the Navajo Nation. The rooms feature rustic Southwest-

ern-style furnishings and are the best you’ll find on this side of the reservation.

The restaurant serves American and traditional Navajo dishes, including mutton

stew and fry bread.

48 W. Ariz. 264 (P.O. Box 2340), Window Rock, AZ 86515. www.explorenavajo.com. 800/662-6189 or 928/871-4108. Fax 928/871-5466. 56 units. Apr–Oct $87–$103 double; Nov–Mar $68–

$98 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 deposit). Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

333

CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL

MONUMENT

68 miles NW of Window Rock; 222 miles NE of Flagstaff; 110 miles SE of Navajo National Monument; 110 miles SE of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

7 It’s hard to imagine narrow canyons less than 1,000 feet deep being as impressive

as the Grand Canyon, but in some ways Canyon de Chelly National Monument

is just that. Gaze down from the rim at an ancient cliff dwelling as the whinnying

of horses and clanging of goats’ bells drifts up from far below, and you’ll be struck by the continuity of human existence. For more than 2,000 years, people have

called these canyons home, and today the canyon is the site of not only prehis-

toric dwelling sites, but also the summer homes of Navajo farmers and

shepherds.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument consists primarily of two major can-

yons—Canyon de Chelly (which is pronounced “Canyon duh Shay” and is

derived from the Navajo word tsegi, meaning “rock canyon”) and Canyon del

Muerto (Spanish for “Canyon of the Dead”). The canyons extend for more than

100 miles through the rugged slickrock landscape of northeastern Arizona, drain-

ing the seasonal snowmelt runoff from the Chuska Mountains.

In summer, Canyon de Chelly’s smooth sandstone walls of red and yellow

contrast sharply with the greens of corn, pastures, and cottonwoods on the can-

Canyon de Chelly National Monument yon floor. Vast stone amphitheaters form the caves in which the Ancestral Puebloans built their homes, and as you watch shadows and light paint an ever-changing canyon panorama, it’s easy to see why the Navajo consider this sacred

ground. The many mysteriously abandoned cliff dwellings and the breathtaking

natural beauty make Canyon de Chelly as worthy of a visit as the Grand

Canyon.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

334

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Flagstaff, the easiest route to Canyon de Chelly is I-40

to U.S. 191 to Ganado. At Ganado, drive west on Ariz. 264 and pick up U.S.

191 N. to Chinle. If you’re coming down from Monument Valley or Navajo

National Monument, Indian Rte. 59, which connects U.S. 160 and U.S.

191, is an excellent road with plenty of beautiful scenery.

7

FEES Admission to the monument is free.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

VISITOR INFORMATION Before leaving home, you can contact Canyon de

Chelly National Monument, P.O. Box 588, Chinle, AZ 86503 ( 928/

674-5500; www.nps.gov/cach), for information. The monument itself is

open daily from sunrise to sunset. The visitor center is open daily 8am to

5pm (closed Christmas day). Remember that the Navajo Nation observes

daylight saving time.

SPECIAL EVENTS The annual Central Navajo Fair is held in Chinle in

August. It includes, among other activities, a rodeo, a powwow (Native

American drumming and dancing), and Navajo food stalls.

Exploring Canyon de Chelly National

Monument

Your first stop should be the visitor center (see above), in front of which is an Canyon de Chelly National Monument

example of a traditional crib-style hogan, a hexagonal structure of logs and earth

that Navajos use as both a home and a ceremonial center. Inside the visitor cen-

ter, a small museum explores the history of Canyon de Chelly, and there’s often

a silversmith demonstrating Navajo jewelry-making techniques. Interpretive pro-

grams are offered at the monument from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Check at

the visitor center for daily activities, such as campfire programs and natural-his-

tory programs.

From the visitor center, most people tour the canyon by car. Very different

views of the monument’s system of canyons are provided by the 15-mile North

Rim and 16-mile South Rim drives. The North Rim Drive overlooks Canyon del

Muerto, while the South Rim Drive overlooks Canyon de Chelly. With stops, the

drive along either rim road can

easily take 2 to 3 hours. If you

Taking Photos on the

have time for only one, make it the

Reservations

South Rim Drive, which provides

both a dramatic view of Spider

Before taking a photograph of a Navajo,

Rock and the chance to hike down

always ask permission. If it’s granted, a tip

into the canyon on the only trail

will be expected. Photography is not

you can explore without hiring a

allowed at all in Hopi villages.

guide. If, on the other hand, you’re

more interested in the history and

prehistory of this area, opt for the North Rim Drive, which overlooks several his-

torically significant sites within the canyon.

THE NORTH RIM DRIVE

The first stop on the North Rim is the Ledge Ruin Overlook. On the opposite

wall, about 100 feet up from the canyon floor, you can see the Ledge Ruin. This

site was occupied by the Ancestral Puebloans between 1050 and 1275. Nearby,

at the unmarked Dekaa Kiva Viewpoint, you can see a lone kiva (circular

335

ceremonial building). This structure

was reached by means of toeholds cut

into the soft sandstone cliff wall.

The second stop is the Antelope

House Overlook, which is the all-

7 around most interesting overlook in the

monument. Not only do you get to hike

a quarter mile over the rugged rimrock

landscape, but you also get to view

ruins, rock art, and impressive cliff

walls. The Antelope House ruin takes

its name from the antelope paintings,

believed to date back to the 1830s, on

a nearby cliff wall. Beneath the ruins of

Antelope House, archaeologists have

found the remains of an earlier pit

house dating from a.d. 693. Although

most of the Ancestral Puebloan cliff

dwellings were abandoned sometime

after a drought began in 1276, Ante-

lope House had already been aban-

doned by 1260, possibly because of

Canyon de Chelly National Monument damage caused by flooding. Across the

wash from Antelope House, an ancient

tomb, known as the Tomb of the

Weaver, was discovered by archaeolo-

gists in the 1920s. The tomb contained A view from the Antelope House Overlook.

the well-preserved body of an old man

wrapped in a blanket of golden eagle feathers and accompanied by cornmeal,

shelled and husked corn, pine nuts, beans, salt, and thick skeins of cotton. Also

visible from this overlook is Navajo Fortress, a red-sandstone butte that the

Navajo once used as a refuge from attackers. A steep trail and system of log lad-

ders led to the top of the butte, and by hauling the ladders up behind them, the

Navajo could escape from any pursuers.

The third stop is Mummy Cave Overlook, named for two mummies

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

found in burial urns below the ruins. Archaeological evidence indicates that this

giant amphitheater consisting of two caves was occupied for 1,000 years, from

a.d. 300 to 1300. In the two caves and on the shelf between are 80 rooms,

including three kivas. The central structure between the two caves includes an

interesting three-story building characteristic of the architecture in Mesa Verde

National Park in Colorado. Archaeologists speculate that a group of Ancestral

Puebloans migrated here from New Mexico. Much of the original plasterwork is

still intact and indicates that the buildings were colorfully decorated.

The fourth and last stop on the North Rim is the Massacre Cave Over-

look, which got its name after an 1805 Spanish military expedition killed more than 115 Navajos at this site. The Navajo at the time had been raiding Spanish

settlements that were encroaching on their territory. Accounts of the battle at

Massacre Cave differ. One version claims there were only women, children, and

old men taking shelter in the cave, but the official Spanish records claim 90 war-

riors and 25 women and children were killed. Also visible from this overlook is

Yucca Cave, which was occupied about 1,000 years ago.

336

THE SOUTH RIM DRIVE

The South Rim Drive climbs slowly but steadily, and at each stop you’re a little

bit higher above the canyon floor. Near the mouth of the canyon is the Tunnel

Overlook, where a short narrow canyon feeds into Chinle Wash, a wash formed

by the streams that cut through the canyons of the national monument. Tsegi is a Navajo word meaning “rock canyon,” and at the nearby Tsegi Overlook, that’s 7

just what you’ll see when you gaze down from the viewpoint.

The next stop is the Junction Overlook, so named because it overlooks

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

the junction of Canyon del Muerto and Canyon de Chelly. Here you can see the

Junction Ruin, which has 10 rooms and a kiva. Ancestral Puebloans occupied

this ruin during the Great Pueblo Period, which lasted from around 1100 until

shortly before 1300. First Ruin, which is perched precariously on a long narrow

ledge, is also visible. There are 22 rooms and two kivas in this ruin. Good luck

picking out the two canyons in this maze of curving cliff walls.

The third stop is White House Overlook, from which you can see the

80-room White House Ruin, which is among the largest ruin sites in the canyon.

These buildings were inhabited between 1040 and 1275. From this overlook, you

have your only opportunity to descend into Canyon de Chelly without a guide or

ranger. The White House Ruins Trail

descends 600 feet to the canyon

floor and crosses Chinle Wash before reaching the White House Ruin. The

buildings of this ruin were constructed both on the canyon floor and 50 feet up

the cliff wall in a small cave. Although you cannot enter the ruins, you can get

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

close enough to get a good look. Do not wander off this trail, and please respect

the privacy of the Navajo living here. The 2.5-mile round-trip hike takes about

2 hours. Be sure to carry water.

Notice the black streaks on the sandstone walls above the White House

Ruins. These streaks, known as desert varnish, are formed by seeping water,

which reacts with iron in the sandstone (iron is what gives the walls their reddish

The 80-room White House Ruin can be

Spider Rock rises 800 feet from the

reached via the White House Ruins Trail.

canyon floor.

337

FRED HARVEY & HIS girls

Unless you grew up in the Southwest and can remember back to pre–World War II

days, you may have never heard of Fred Harvey and the Harvey Girls. But if you spend much time in northern Arizona, you’re likely to run into quite a few references to the 7 Harvey Girls and their boss.

Fred Harvey was the Southwest’s most

came to be called Harvey Girls. Known

famous mogul of railroad hospitality and

for their distinctive black dresses, white

was an early promoter of tourism in the

aprons, and black bow ties, Harvey Girls

Grand Canyon State. Harvey, who was

had to adhere to very strict behavior

working for a railroad in the years shortly

codes. In fact, in the late 19th century,

after the Civil War, developed a distaste

they were considered the only real

for the food served at railroad stations.

“ladies” in the West, aside from school-

He decided he could do a better job, and

teachers. So celebrated were they in

in 1876 he opened his first Harvey House

their day that in the 1940s, Judy Garland

railway-station restaurant for the Santa Fe

starred in a Technicolor MGM musical

Railroad. By the time of his death in

called The Harvey Girls. Garland played a

1901, Harvey operated 47 restaurants,

Harvey Girl who battles the evil town

30 diners, and 15 hotels across the West.

dance-hall queen (played by Angela

The women who worked as wait-

Lansbury) for the soul of the local

resses in the Harvey House restaurants

saloonkeeper.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

hue). To create the canyon’s many petroglyphs, Ancestral Puebloan artists would

chip away at the desert varnish. Later, the Navajo used paints to create picto-

graphs of animals and historical events, such as the Spanish military expedition

that killed 115 Navajos at Massacre Cave. Many of these petroglyphs and picto-

graphs can be seen if you take a guided tour into the canyon.

The fifth stop is Sliding House Overlook. These ruins were built on a

narrow shelf and appear to be sliding down into the canyon. Inhabited from

about 900 until 1200, Sliding House contained between 30 and 50 rooms. This

overlook is already more than 700 feet above the canyon floor, with sheer walls

giving the narrow canyon a very foreboding appearance.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

On the last access road to the canyon rim, you’ll come to the Face Rock

Overlook, which provides yet another dizzying glimpse of the ever-deepening

canyon. Here you gaze 1,000 feet down to the bottom. However, it is the next

stop—Spider Rock Overlook

—that offers the monument’s most spec-

tacular view. This viewpoint overlooks the junction of Canyon de Chelly and

Monument Canyon. The monolithic pinnacle known as Spider Rock rises 800

feet from the canyon floor, its two free-standing towers forming a natural monu-

ment. Across the canyon from Spider Rock is the similarly striking Speaking

Rock, which is connected to the far canyon wall.

OTHER WAYS TO SEE THE CANYON

Access to the floor of Canyon de Chelly is restricted. Unless you’re on the White

House Trail (see “The South Rim Drive,” above), you must be on an organized

tour or accompanied by an authorized guide in order to enter the canyon. If you

want to see a lot of the canyon and don’t happen to be driving your own four-

wheel-drive vehicle, the best way to see Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del

338

Muerto is on a jeep tour or what locals call shake-and-bake tours . These

latter tours are in rugged military-type trucks that have had seats installed in the truck beds. In summer, these excursions really live up to the name. (In winter,

the trucks are enclosed to keep out the elements.) Tours, which leave from two

area hotels, make frequent stops for photographs and to visit ruins, Navajo farms,

and rock art.

Thunderbird Lodge ( 800/679-2473; www.tbirdlodge.com), which 7

uses unusual six-wheel-drive trucks for its tours, operates half-day tours costing

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

$52 for adults and $40 for children 12 and under, and full-day trips costing $83

per person. The half-day tours operate year-round with departures at 9am and

1pm; full-day tours operate spring through fall, departing at 9am and returning at

5pm.For a more personalized experience, I recommend going out in a jeep in a

small group. De Chelly Tours ( 877/343-3243 or 928/674-3772; www.

acanyondechellytour.com) charges $150 for a 3-hour guided jeep tour for up to

three people. Similar tours are offered by Canyon de Chelly Tours ( 928/

674-5433 or 928/349-1600; www.canyondechellytours.com), which departs

from the visitor center parking lot and will take you into the canyon in a Jeep.

Regularly scheduled group tours, which operate from March to October, cost

$65 to $72 for adults and $40 to $44 for children 12 and under. Private tours cost

$175 to $193 for 3-hour tours for up to three people. Reservations are

recommended.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

If you’d rather use a more traditional means of transportation, you can go on

a guided horseback ride. To leave the crowds behind, drive east along South Rim

Drive to Totsonii Ranch ( 928/755-2037 or 928/220-5524; www.totsonii ranch.com), which is 11⁄4 miles past the end of the paved stretch of this road.

Rides from here visit a remote part of the canyon (including the Spider Rock

Access remote parts of the canyon via horseback.

339

area) and cost $50 for a 2-hour ride, $100 for 4-hour ride, $150 for a 5- to 6-hour

ride, and $200 for a 8- to 9-hour ride. Totsonii Ranch also offers overnight rides

for $350 per person and 2-night rides for $515 per person.

If you’re physically fit and enjoy hiking, consider hiring a Navajo guide to

lead you into the canyon. Hikes can start at the White House Ruin trail, near the

7 Spider Rock overlook, or from near the Antelope House overlook. These latter

two starting points are trails that are not open to the public without a guide and

should be your top choices. The hike from Antelope House gets my vote for best

option for a hike. The monument visitor center maintains a list of guides, and

guides can often be hired at the visitor center. Alternatively, contact Ancient

Canyon Tours ( 928/380-1563; www.ancientcanyontours.com). Expect to

pay $25 to $30 per hour with a 3-hour minimum.

Where to Eat

Other than a handful of fast-food restaurants in Chinle, the only places to eat in

town are hotel dining rooms. While the cafeteria at the Thunderbird Lodge has a

memorable setting in a historic trading post, the food is forgettable. The food at the Holiday Inn’s dining room is a bit better, though the service isn’t. If you need an

espresso, stop by Changing Woman Cafe ( 928/674-5260; www.changing

womancafe.com), which is in a hogan under the trees across from the national

monument’s Cottonwood Campground. The coffee is organic, and the cafe

Canyon de Chelly National Monument owner, Victoria Begay, also offers a variety of four-wheel-drive, hiking, and camping tours.

Shopping

The Thunderbird Lodge Gift Shop, in Chinle ( 800/679-2473), is well

worth a stop while you’re in the area. It has a large collection of rugs, as well as a good selection of pottery and plenty of souvenirs. Anywhere visitors gather in the

canyon (such as at ruins and petroglyph sites), you’re likely to encounter crafts-

people selling jewelry and other types of handwork. These craftspeople accept

cash, personal checks, traveler’s checks, and sometimes credit cards.

Where to Stay

Best Western Canyon de Chelly Inn Of the three hotels in the Chinle area,

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

this is the farthest from the entrance to Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

Because it is right in the center of Chinle, it also does not have as attractive a setting as the area’s other two hotels. However, guest rooms are comfortable. Because

this hotel has an indoor pool, it

Forget About Wine with

makes a good choice for families.

Dinner

100 Main St., Chinle, AZ 86503. www.

canyondechelly.com.

800/327-0354

Alcohol is prohibited on both the Navajo

or 928/674-5874. Fax 928/674-3715. 104

and Hopi reservations. Unfortunately, how-

units. $90–$120 double. Children 12 and

ever, despite this prohibition, drunk drivers

under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC,

are a problem on the reservation, so stay

DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant;

alert.

exercise room; indoor pool; sauna.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Holiday Inn–Canyon de Chelly Between the town of Chinle and the

national monument entrance, this modern hotel is on the site of the old Garcia

340

Trading Post, which has been incorporated into the restaurant and gift-shop

building (although the building no longer has any historical character). All guest

rooms have patios or balconies, and most face the cottonwood-shaded pool

courtyard. Because Canyon de Chelly truck tours leave from the parking lot here

and because the restaurant serves the best food in town, this should be your top

choice for a room in Chinle.

7

Indian Rte. 7, Garcia Trading Post, Chinle, AZ 86503. www.holiday-inn.com/chinle-garcia.

888/465-4329 or 928/674-5000. Fax 928/674-8264. 108 units. $90–$117 double. Children 19

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

and under stay free in parent’s room; children 12 and under eat free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; exercise room; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Thunderbird Lodge Built on the site of an early trading post at the mouth of

Canyon de Chelly, Thunderbird Lodge is the closest hotel to the national monu-

ment. The red-adobe construction of the lodge itself is reminiscent of ancient

pueblos, and the presence on the property of an old stone-walled trading post

gives this place lots of character. However, the rooms here are not quite as mod-

ern or as comfortable as those at the nearby Holiday Inn. The old trading post

now serves as a cafeteria that serves a few Navajo dishes. There’s also a shop that

sells Navajo rugs.

P.O. Box 548, Chinle, AZ 86503. www.tbirdlodge.com. 800/679-2473 or 928/674-5841. Fax 928/674-5844. 73 units. Mar–Oct $122–$129 double, $171 suite; Nov–Feb $75 double, $95 suite.

Navajo National Monument

Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 fee).

Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

CAMPGROUNDS

Adjacent to the Thunderbird Lodge is the free Cottonwood Campground,

which has around 100 sites but does not take reservations. On South Rim Drive

10 miles east of the Canyon de Chelly visitor center, you’ll find the private Spider Rock Campground (www.spiderrockcampground.com; 928/674-

8261), which has more than 30 spaces and charges $10 to $15 per night. This

campground also has a couple of hogans for rent for $29 to $39 per night.

NAVAJO NATIONAL

MONUMENT

110 miles NW of Canyon de Chelly; 140 miles NE of Flagstaff; 60 miles SW of Monument Valley; 90 miles E of Page

Navajo National Monument, 30 miles west of Kayenta and 60 miles northeast of

Tuba City, encompasses three of the largest and best-preserved Ancestral

Puebloan cliff dwellings in the region—Betatakin, Keet Seel, and Inscription

House. It’s possible to visit both Betatakin and Keet Seel, but, due to its fragility, Inscription House is closed to the public. The name Navajo National Monument

is a bit misleading. Although the Navajo do inhabit the area now, the cliff dwell-

ings were built by Kayenta Ancestral Puebloans, the ancestors of today’s Hopi

and Pueblo peoples. The Navajo did not arrive in this area until centuries after

the cliff dwellings had been abandoned.

For reasons unknown, the well-constructed cliff dwellings here were aban-

doned around the middle of the 13th century. Tree rings suggest that a drought

in the latter part of the 13th century prevented the Ancestral Puebloans from

341

growing sufficient crops. In Tsegi Canyon, however, there’s another theory for

the abandonment. The canyon was usually flooded each year by spring and sum-

mer snowmelt, which made farming quite productive, but in the mid-1200s,

weather patterns changed and streams began cutting deep into the soil, forming

narrow little canyons called arroyos, which lowered the water table and made

7 farming much more difficult.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Navajo National Monument can be reached by taking U.S. 89

N. to U.S. 160 to Ariz. 564 N.

FEES Monument admission is free.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information, contact Navajo National Monu-

ment, HC 71 Box 3, Tonalea, AZ 86044 ( 928/672-2700; www.nps.gov/

nava). Late May through mid-September, the visitor center is open daily

from 8am to 5:30pm; in winter the visitor center is open daily from 9am to

5pm. The monument is open daily from sunrise to sunset.

Navajo National Monument Exploring Navajo National Monument

A visit to Navajo National Monument is definitely not a point-and-shoot experi-

ence. You’re going to have to expend some energy if you want to see what this

monument is all about. The shortest distance you’ll have to walk is 1 mile, which

is the round-trip from the visitor center to the Betatakin overlook. However, if

you want to actually get close to these ruins, you’re looking at strenuous day or

overnight hikes.

Your first stop should be the visitor center, which has informative displays on the Ancestral Puebloan and Navajo cultures, including numerous artifacts

from Tsegi Canyon. You can also watch a couple of short films or a slide show.

The only one of the monument’s three ruins that can be seen easily is

Betatakin , which means “ledge house” in Navajo. Built in a huge amphithe-

ater-like alcove in the canyon wall, Betatakin was occupied only from 1250 to

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

1300 and may have housed 125 people. A 1-mile round-trip paved trail from the

visitor center leads to overlooks of Betatakin. The strenuous 3- to 5-mile round-

trip hikes to Betatakin itself are led by a ranger, take 3 to 5 hours, and involve

descending more than 700 feet to the floor of Tsegi Canyon and later returning

to the rim. Between late May and early September, these guided hikes are offered

daily at 8:15 (5-mile hike) and 10am (3-mile hike). Remember, daylight saving

time is observed here on the Navajo Nation. Other months, tours leave only on weekends at 10am, but call to make sure the tour will be going out. These hikes

are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. All participants should carry 1 to 2

quarts of water. While this is a fascinating hike, you will be hiking with a large

group. Keet Seel , which means “broken pieces of pottery” in Navajo, has a much longer history than Betatakin, with occupation beginning as early as a.d. 950 and

continuing until 1300. At one point, Keet Seel may have housed 150 people. The

17-mile round-trip hike is quite strenuous. Hikers usually stay overnight at a

primitive campground near the ruins. You must carry enough water for your

trip—up to 2 gallons in summer—because none is available along the trail. These

hikes are offered between late May and mid-September and reservations can be

made up to 5 months in advance. Hikes are sometimes offered in other months,

but if the hike is offered at all, it is done as a day hike.

342

Our Daily Bread

The sandwich board beside the pickup

“Then we grind it, put it back in the husk

was a bit cryptic. kneel down bread was all

and roast it.” She reached into a cooler

it said. I had spotted the sign out of the

and pulled out what looked like a long

corner of my eye as I made a turn on a

tamale.

remote section of the Navajo Nation at

“We’ll take two,” said my friend

7

the foot of Black Mesa. Slamming on the

enthusiastically, handing the Navajo

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

brakes, I pulled a U-turn and went back

woman $4. And, for the rest of the morn-

to find out more.

ing, as we drove across the desert, we

My travel companion, a baker by

nibbled on the sweetest rustic corn

trade, leaned out of the car window and

bread imaginable.

asked the Navajo woman sitting in the

Keep your eyes open as you travel

pickup truck, “What’s kneel down bread?”

the Navajo and Hopi reservations and

“It’s corn that we roast and then take

you, too, may stumble upon some unex-

off the cob,” the woman explained.

pected traditional treats.

Where to Stay

There is no lodge at the national monument, but there are two free campgrounds

that have a total of 48 campsites. Sunset View Campground is open all year,

Monument V

while Canyon View Campground is open only between April and September.

Both campgrounds are free, and neither takes reservations. The nearest reliable

motels are 30 miles away in Kayenta. See the section on Monument Valley,

below, for details.

alley Navajo T

MONUMENT VALLEY NAVAJO

TRIBAL PARK

60 miles NE of Navajo National Monument; 110 miles NW of Canyon de Chelly; 200 miles NE of ribal Park

Flagstaff; 150 miles E of Page

In its role as sculptor, nature has, in the north central part of the Navajo Nation, created a garden of monoliths and spires unequaled anywhere on earth. Whether

you’ve been here or not, you’ve almost certainly seen images of Monument Valley

before. This otherworldly landscape has been an object of fascination for years,

and since Hollywood director John Ford first came here in the 1930s, it has

served as backdrop for countless movies, TV shows, and commercials.

Located 30 miles north of Kayenta and straddling the Arizona-Utah state

line (you actually go into Utah to get to the park entrance), Monument Valley is

a vast flat plain punctuated by natural sandstone cathedrals. These huge mono-

liths rise up from the sagebrush with sheer walls that capture the light of the

rising and setting sun and transform it into fiery hues. Evocative names including

the Mittens, Three Sisters, Camel Butte, Elephant Butte, the Thumb, and

Totem Pole reflect the shapes the sandstone has taken under the erosive forces

of nature.

While it may at first seem as if this strange landscape is a barren wasteland,

it is actually still home to a few Navajo families, and for generations, Navajos

have herded their sheep through the sagebrush scrublands of the valley. In fact,

human habitation in Monument Valley dates back hundreds of years. Within the

343

7

ribal Park

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park.

alley Navajo T

park are more than 100 Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites, ruins, and petro-

glyphs dating from before 1300.

Monument V Essentials

GETTING THERE Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is 200 miles northeast of

Flagstaff. Take U.S. 89 north to U.S. 160 to Kayenta, which is 23 miles

south of Monument Valley and 29 miles east of Navajo National Monu-

ment. Then drive north on U.S. 163.

FEES Admission to the park is $5 per person (free for children 9 and under).

Note: Because this is a tribal park and not a federal park, America the Beautiful passes are not valid here.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information, contact Monument Valley Navajo

Tribal Park ( 435/727-5874 or 435/727-5879; www.navajonation

parks.org). May through September, the park is open daily from 6am to

8:30pm; between October and April, it’s open daily from 8am to 4:30pm.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

The park is closed on Christmas and New Year’s day.

Exploring Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

This is big country and, like the Grand Canyon, is primarily a point-and-shoot

experience for most visitors. Because this is reservation land and people still live in Monument Valley, most backcountry and off-road travel is prohibited unless

you’re with a licensed guide. So basically, with one exception, your options for

seeing the park on your own are limited. You can take a few pictures from the

overlook beside the visitor center and the View Hotel, drive the park’s Valley

Drive (a scenic but very rough 17-mile dirt road), take a jeep or van tour, or go on a guided hike or horseback ride. At the visitor center, you’ll find a small museum

and a large gift shop, and, at the View Hotel, you’ll find a restaurant with a knockout view. A quarter mile away from the visitor center there’s a picnic area.

Although Valley Drive is best driven in a high-clearance vehicle, plenty of

people drive the loop in rental cars and other standard passenger vehicles. Take

it slow, and you should do fine. However, if the first stretch of rocky, rutted road convinces you to change your mind about the drive, just return to the visitor

344

center and book a jeep or van tour and let someone else pay the repair bills. Along

the loop drive, you’ll pass 11 very scenic viewpoints that provide ample opportu-

nities for photographing the valley’s many natural monuments. At many of these

viewpoints, you’ll also encounter Navajos selling jewelry and other crafts. At John

Ford’s Point, so named because it was a favorite shooting location for film direc-

tor John Ford, you may even get the chance to photograph a Navajo on horseback

posed in front of all that spectacular scenery. He’ll expect a tip.

7

If you’re trying to decide whether to take a tour, here’s some little-publicized

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

information that might help you with your decision. Most tours don’t just drive

the 17-mile loop; they go off into a part of the valley that is closed to anyone who is not on a tour. This part of the valley is, in my opinion, the most beautiful. You’ll get close-up looks at several natural arches and stop at some beautiful petroglyphs. Before booking a tour, make sure that the tour will go to this “closed”

section of the valley. There are always plenty of jeep tour companies waiting for

business in the park’s main parking lot. If you’re staying at Goulding’s Lodge,

then your best bet is to go out with Goulding’s Tours ( 435/727-3231; www.

gouldings.com), which has its office right at the lodge (see “Where to Stay &

Eat,” below), just a few miles from the park entrance. Goulding’s offers 21⁄2-hour

tours ($45 for adults, $30 for children 7 and under), 31⁄2-hour tours ($55 for

adults, $35 for children), 51⁄2-hour tours ($78 for adults, $62 for children), and

all-day tours ($100 for adults, $80 for children). This company also offers full-

moon tours (Sept and Oct are the best months for these). Sacred Monument

Monument V

Tours ( 435/727-3218 or 435/459-2501; www.monumentvalley.net) also

does tours and charges $73 for a 21⁄2-hour jeep tour ($58 for children 11 and

under). A variety of other tours are also available.

The traditional way to explore this quintessentially Wild West landscape, how-

alley Navajo T

ever, is from the back of a horse, a la John Wayne. I recommend going out with Sacred Monument Tours ( 435/727-3218 or 435/459-2501; www.monument

valley.net), which charges from $68 for

a 1-hour horseback ride up to $286 for

an all-day ride.

ribal Park

Because the jeep and van tours

are such a big business here, there’s a

steady stream of the vehicles on Valley

Drive throughout the day. One way to

get away from the rumble of engines is

to go out on a guided hike. These are

offered by Sacred Monument Tours

(see above), which charges between

$73 and $166 per person for hikes of

different lengths. Keep in mind that

summers can be very hot here.

There is one exception to the no-

traveling-off-road rule. The 3.2-mile

Wildcat Trail

is a loop trail that

circles West Mitten Butte and provides

the only opportunity to get close to this

picturesque butte. As you circle the

butte, you’ll get all kinds of different

A Navajo woman outside a hogan.

perspectives, even one that completely

345

Monumental Sunsets

eliminates the “thumb.” Because

this is the park’s only option for

Be sure to save some storage space on the

unguided hiking, it’s a not-to-be-

memory card of your digital camera (or keep

missed excursion and one of the

plenty of film in your camera) for sunset at

most memorable hikes in the

7 Monument Valley. Sure, these rocks are

state. In summer, be sure to carry

impressive at noon, but as the sun sets and

plenty of water.

the shadows lengthen, they are positively

Between May and October,

enchanting—definitely one of the most spec-

you can float over the valley’s

tacular sites in America.

mesas, buttes, and spires in a hot-

air balloon. Monument Valley

ribal Park

Hot Air Balloons ( 800/843-

5987; www.monumentvalleyballooncompany.com) charges $395 per person for

its once-in-a-lifetime adventures.

Activities Outside the Park

alley Navajo T

Before leaving the area, you might want to visit Goulding’s Museum & Trading

Post, at Goulding’s Lodge (see “Where to Stay & Eat,” below). This old trading post was the home of the Gouldings for many years and is set up as they had it back in

the 1920s and 1930s. There are also displays about the many movies that have been

Monument V shot here. The trading post hours vary with the seasons; admission is by donation.

On U.S. 160 in Kayenta, between the Burger King and the Hampton Inn,

you’ll find the Navajo Cultural Center ( 928/697-3170), which has 21⁄2 acres of exhibits on traditional Navajo life. There are examples of the Navajo’s two

types of traditional hogans, as well as a shade house and a sweathouse. In the shade house, there are exhibits on Navajo life and the Navajo code talkers of World War II.

The code talkers were Navajo soldiers who used their own language to transmit mili-

tary messages, primarily in the South Pacific. Inside the adjacent Burger King there’s another code talkers exhibit. The cultural center is usually open spring through fall.

Where to Stay & Eat

In addition to the lodgings listed here, you’ll find several budget motels north of

Monument Valley in the Utah towns of Mexican Hat and Bluff. There are restau-

rants at both the View Hotel and Goulding’s Lodge, but, aside from the great

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

views, neither is recommendable.

Goulding’s Lodge For decades this was the only lodge actually located in

Monument Valley, and although you can now stay inside the park at the Navajo-

owned View Hotel, Goulding’s is still a good bet. Because this is one of the most

popular hotels in the area, be sure to make your reservation well in advance.

Goulding’s offers great views (especially at sunrise) from the private balconies of

its large guest rooms. The restaurant serves Navajo and American dishes, and

also boasts views that are enough to make any meal an event. Unfortunately,

although the setting is memorable, the service in the restaurant can be somewhat

lacking. The lodge also has a museum.

P.O. Box 360001, Monument Valley, UT 84536. www.gouldings.com. 435/727-3231. Fax

435/727-3344. 62 units. Mar 15–Nov 15 $130–$185 double; Nov 16–Mar 14 $78 double. Children 9 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Hampton Inn–Navajo Nation This is the most modern lodging right in the

town of Kayenta and, as such, should be your first choice if you can’t get a room

346

in Monument Valley itself. The Hampton Inn is built in a contemporary Santa Fe

style and has spacious, comfortable guest rooms. In the hotel’s dining room, you

can get a few Navajo dishes. Adjacent to the hotel, you’ll find the Navajo Cultural

Center and a Burger King that has an interesting display on the Navajo code talk-

ers of World War II.

U.S. 160 (P.O. Box 1219), Kayenta, AZ 86033. www.hamptoninn.com. 800/426-7866 or

7

928/697-3170. Fax 928/697-3189. 73 units. $109–$189 double. Rates include full breakfast.

Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 fee THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

plus $20 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Kayenta Monument Valley Inn This hotel, right in the center of Kay-

enta, is very popular with tour groups and is almost always crowded. Although the

grounds are dusty and a bit run-down, the rooms are spacious and clean and have

all been extensively renovated in the past few years. I like the poolside units best.

Part of the hotel’s dining room is designed to look like an Ancestral Puebloan

ruin, and the menu offers both American and Navajo cuisine.

U.S. 160 and U.S. 163 (P.O. Box 307), Kayenta, AZ 86033. www.kayentamonumentvalleyinn.com.

866/306-5458 or 928/697-3221. Fax 928/697-3349. 164 units. Early Sept to June $109–$149

double; July early Sept $169–$209 double. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; small outdoor pool; room service.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Monument V

The View Hotel

This Navajo-owned hotel inside Monument Valley

Navajo Tribal Park is the only hotel inside the park. As such, it should be your

first choice for accommodations in the area. With the park’s most famous and

picturesque buttes right outside the windows, you need do nothing more than sit

alley Navajo T

back and watch the play of light on red-rock pinnacles. The rooms themselves are

comfortable enough, though little better than standard freeway off-ramp motel

rooms. What you’re paying for here is the view, not the room itself. Both the ser-

vice and the food in the hotel’s restaurant are subpar, but the only other option in the area is the dining room at Goulding’s, which isn’t much better.

ribal Park

P.O. Box 360457, Monument Valley, UT 84536. www.monumentvalleyview.com. 435/727-

5555. Fax 435/727-4545. 96 units. Mid-Mar to mid-Nov $149–$229 double, $219–$319 suite; mid-Nov to mid-Mar $99–$139 double, $179–$199 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

Wetherill Inn Located in Kayenta a mile north of the junction of U.S. 160

and U.S. 163, and 20 miles south of Monument Valley, the Wetherill Inn doesn’t

look like much from the outside, but guest rooms are the most modern rooms in

Kayenta. While the hotel offers neither the convenience of the View Hotel or

Goulding’s Lodge nor the amenities of the nearby Holiday Inn or Hampton Inn,

if you just want a nice room for the night, this is a good bet.

1000 Main St., Kayenta, AZ 86033. www.wetherill-inn.com. 928/697-3231. Fax 928/697-3233.

54 units. May 1–Oct 15 $132 double; Oct 16–Nov 15 and Apr $90 double; Nov 16–Mar 31 $75

double. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include continental breakfast.

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

CAMPGROUNDS

If you’re headed to Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, you can camp at

Goulding’s Campground (www.gouldings.com; 435/727-3231), which

charges $20 to $44 per night. There are also small cabins that go for $79 to $99 347

per night. This campground is open year-round (limited services Nov to mid-

Mar) and has an indoor pool, hot showers, a playground, a coin-op laundry, and

Wi-Fi. There is also a primitive campground with the park near the View Hotel.

This campground charges $5 per person per night, and reservations are not

accepted. There is also Cottonwood Campground, a primitive campground

7 within the tribal park. Reservations are not accepted and the only facilities are

portable toilets. The camping fee is $5 per person per night.

Side Trips

It seems like a supremely silly reason to drive miles out of your way, but lots of

people feel they just have to visit the Four Corners Monument (www.navajo

nationparks.org/htm/fourcorners.htm). Why? So they can stand in four states—

Arizona, Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico—at once and get their photo taken.

Located north of Teec Nos Pos in the very northeast corner of the state, this park

is the only place in the United States where the corners of four states come

Lake Powell & Page together. The scenery is not exactly the most dramatic in the region, and the exact point is just a cement pad surrounded by flags and vendor stalls. The park

also has a few picnic tables and a snack bar serving, among other things, Navajo

fry bread. May through September, the park is open daily from 7am to 8pm;

October through April, it’s open daily from 8am to 5pm (closed Thanksgiving,

Christmas, and New Year’s day). Admission is $3.

LAKE POWELL & PAGE

272 miles N of Phoenix; 130 miles E of Grand Canyon North Rim; 130 miles NE of Grand Canyon South Rim

Had the early Spanish explorers of Arizona suddenly come upon Lake Powell after

traipsing for months across desolate desert, they would have either taken it for a

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

mirage or fallen to their knees and rejoiced. Imagine the Grand Canyon filled with

water, and you have a pretty good picture of Lake Powell. Surrounded by hundreds

of miles of parched desert, this reservoir, created by the damming of the Colo-

rado River at Glen Canyon, seems unreal when first glimpsed. Yet real it is, and

it draws people from around the region with its promise of relief from the heat.

Construction of the Glen Canyon Dam came about despite the angry outcry

of many who felt that this canyon was even more beautiful than the Grand Can-

yon and should be preserved in its natural state. Preservationists lost the battle,

and construction of the dam began in 1960, with completion in 1963. It took

another 17 years for Lake Powell to fill to capacity. Today, the lake is a watery

powerboat playground, and houseboats and water-skiers cruise where once only

More Big Rocks

Monument Valley isn’t the only place in

take a picture, you can also shop for

this region with impressive rocks. Just

cheap jewelry at Navajo vendors’ stalls.

north of Kayenta, on the road to Monu-

East of Kayenta on U.S. 160, watch for

ment Valley, you’ll pass by El Capitan

the red sandstone cliffs known as Baby

(also called Agathla), a huge plug of

Rocks. East of Tuba City, also on U.S.

volcanic rock that rises from the desert

160, watch for the two sandstone towers

floor. Of course, when you pull over to

known as Elephant Feet.

348

7

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Swimming at Lake Powell.

bird songs and the splashing of waterfalls filled the canyon air. These days most

people seem to agree, though, that Lake Powell is as amazing a sight as the Grand

Canyon, and it draws almost as many visitors each year as its downriver neighbor.

While Lake Powell is something of a man-made wonder of the world, one of

the natural wonders of the world—Rainbow Bridge—can also be found on its

Lake Powell & Page

shores. Called nonnozhoshi by the Navajo, or “the rainbow turned to stone,” this is the largest natural bridge on earth and stretches 275 feet across a side canyon

off Lake Powell.

The town of Page, originally a camp constructed to house the workers who

built the dam, has many motels and inexpensive restaurants, and is the main base

for most visitors to the area.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Page is connected to Flagstaff by U.S. 89. Ariz. 98 leads

southeast onto the Navajo Indian Reservation and connects with U.S. 160

to Kayenta and Four Corners. The Page Airport is served by Great Lakes

Airlines ( 800/554-5111 or 307/433-2899; www.greatlakesav.com),

which flies from Phoenix, Las Vegas, Denver, and Moab, Utah.

FEES Admission to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is $15 per car (good

for 1 week). There is also a $16-per-week boat fee if you bring your own boat.

VISITOR INFORMATION For further information on the Lake Powell area, con-

tact the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ( 928/608-6404;

www.nps.gov/glca); the Page–Lake Powell Chamber of Commerce, 71

Seventh Ave., Suite B, Page ( 928/645-2741; http://pagechamber.com);

or the John Wesley Powell Memorial Museum, 6 N. Lake Powell Blvd.,

Page ( 888/597-6873 or 928/645-9496; www.powellmuseum.org).

GETTING AROUND Rental cars are available at the Page Airport from Avis

( 800/331-1212 or 928/645-2024).

Exploring Page

Between April and October, you can learn about Navajo culture at Navajo Vil-

lage Heritage Center ( 928/660-0304; www.navajovillage.com), a living-history center on the northeast corner of Ariz. 98 and Coppermine Road (on the

349

south side of Page). Evening performances here center around programs of

Native American dancing, but there are also demonstrations by weavers, silver-

smiths, and other artisans. Tours last 21⁄2 hours and cost $30 ($20 for children 11

to 17, and $5 for children 10 and under). Although this is definitely a tourist

attraction, you will come away with a better sense of Navajo culture.

7

If you’re in the market for Native American crafts, stop by Blair’s Dinne-

bito Trading Post, 626 N. Navajo Dr. ( 800/644-3008 or 928/645-3008; www.blairstradingpost.com), which has been in business for more than 60 years.

The trading post has a good selection of Navajo rugs, Hopi kachinas, silver jew-

elry, pottery, and baskets.

John Wesley Powell Memorial Museum MUSEUM In 1869, one-armed

Civil War veteran John Wesley Powell and a small band of men spent more than

3 months fighting the rapids of the Green and Colorado rivers to become the first

people to travel the length of the Grand Canyon. It is for this intrepid—some

said crazy—adventurer that Lake Powell is named and to whom this small

Lake Powell & Page museum is dedicated. Besides documenting the Powell expedition with photographs, artifacts, and dioramas, the museum displays Native American artifacts

ranging from Ancestral Puebloan pottery to contemporary Navajo and Hopi

crafts. The museum also acts as an information center for Page, Lake Powell, and

the surrounding region.

6 N. Lake Powell Blvd. 888/597-6873 or 928/645-9496. www.powellmuseum.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors, $1 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm (closed Sat Nov–Feb).

Exploring Glen Canyon Dam National

Recreation Area

Until the flooding of Glen Canyon formed Lake Powell, this area was one of the

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

most remote regions in the contiguous 48 states. However, since the construction

of Glen Canyon Dam at a spot where the canyon of the Colorado River was less

than a third of a mile wide, this remote and rugged landscape has become one of

the country’s most popular national recreation areas. Today, the lake and much of

the surrounding land is designated the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

and attracts around two million visitors each year. The otherworldly setting amid

the slickrock canyons of northern Arizona and southern Utah is a tapestry of col-

ors, the blues and greens of the lake contrasting with the reds and oranges of the

surrounding sandstone cliffs. This interplay of colors and vast desert landscapes

easily makes Lake Powell the most beautiful of Arizona’s many reservoirs.

Built to provide water for the desert communities of the Southwest and

West, Glen Canyon Dam stands 710 feet above the bedrock and contains

almost 5 million cubic yards of concrete. The dam also provides hydroelectric

power, and deep within its massive wall of concrete are huge power turbines.

Although most Lake Powell visitors are more interested in water-skiing and pow-

erboating than they are in drinking water and power production, there would be

no lake without the dam, so any visit to this area ought to start at the Carl

Hayden Visitor Center ( 928/608-6404), which is located beside the dam on U.S. 89 just north of Page. Here you can tour the dam and learn about its

construction. Between mid-May and mid-September, the visitor center is open

daily from 8am to 6pm; November to February, it’s open daily 8:30am to 4:30pm;

other months, it’s open daily 8am to 5pm (it’s closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiv-

ing, and Christmas).

350

More than 500 feet deep in some places, and bounded by nearly 2,000

miles of shoreline, Lake Powell is a maze of convoluted canyons where rock

walls often rise hundreds of feet straight out of the water. In places, the long,

winding canyons are so narrow there isn’t even room to turn a motorboat around.

The only way to truly appreciate this lake is from a boat, whether a houseboat, a

runabout, or a sea kayak. Water-skiing, riding personal watercrafts, and fishing

have long been the most popular on-water activities, and consequently, you’ll be

7

hard-pressed to find a quiet corner of the lake if you happen to be a solitude-

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

seeking sea kayaker. However, with so many miles of shoreline, you’re bound to

find someplace to get away from it all. Your best bet for solitude is to head up-lake from Wahweap Marina. This will get you away from the crowds and into some of

the narrower reaches of the lake.

In addition to the Carl Hayden Visitor Center mentioned above, there’s the

Bullfrog Visitor Center, in Bullfrog, Utah ( 435/684-7423). It’s open intermittently from May to early October; call for hours.

BOAT & AIR TOURS

There are few roads penetrating the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, so

the best way to appreciate this rugged region is by boat. If you don’t have your

own boat, you can at least see a small part of the lake on a boat tour. A variety of tours depart from Wahweap Marina ( 888/896-3829 or 928/645-2433;

www.lakepowell.com). Your best bet is either the 11⁄2-hour Antelope Canyon

Lake Powell & Page

Boat Tour ($32 for adults, $18 for children) or the 21⁄2-hour Canyons Adventure Cruise ($53 for adults, $30 for children). To see more of the lake, opt for the full-day tour to Rainbow Bridge (see below for details). Dinner cruises are

also offered ($75 for adults, $35 for children).

The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area covers an immense area, much

of it only partially accessible by boat. If you’d like to see more of the area than is visible from car or boat, consider taking an air tour with Westwind Scenic Air

Glen Canyon Dam.

351

7

Lake Powell & Page

Rainbow Bridge.

Tours ( 800/245-8668 or 928/645-2494; www.westwindairservice.com),

which offers several tours of northern Arizona and southern Utah, including

flights over Rainbow Bridge and Monument Valley. Sample rates are $135 for a

30-minute flight over Rainbow Bridge (minimum two passengers) and $273 for a

90-minute flight over Monument Valley (minimum three passengers). Children

12 and under get a 10% discount.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

RAINBOW BRIDGE NATIONAL MONUMENT

Rainbow Bridge

, the world’s largest natural bridge and one of the most

spectacular sights in the Southwest, rises from the bedrock of a narrow canyon

roughly 40 miles up the lake from Wahweap Marina and Glen Canyon Dam.

This massive natural arch of sandstone stands 290 feet high and spans 275 feet

and has been preserved in Rainbow Bridge National Monument. Carved by wind

and water over the ages, Rainbow Bridge is an awesome reminder of the powers

of erosion that have sculpted this entire region into the spectacle it is today.

Rainbow Bridge is accessible only by boat or by way of a 14-mile-long hiking

trail, so, going by boat is by far the more popular way to visit this natural attraction.

Between April and October, Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas ( 888/896-

3829 or 928/645-2433; www.lakepowell.com) offers 6-hour tours ($100 for

adults, $72 for children 3 to 12) that not only get you to Rainbow Bridge in com-

fort, but also cruise through some of the most spectacular scenery on earth.

Tours also include a bit more exploring after visiting Rainbow Bridge. Currently,

because the lake’s water level is so low from years of drought, the boat must stop

more than a half mile from Rainbow Bridge, so if you aren’t able to walk this dis-

tance, you won’t even be able to see the sandstone arch.

Rainbow Bridge National Monument ( 928/608-6200; www.nps.

gov/rabr) is administered by Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. For infor-

mation on hiking to Rainbow Bridge, contact the Navajo Parks and Recrea-

tion Department, P.O. Box 2520, Window Rock, AZ 86515 ( 928/871-6647;

www.navajonationparks.org). The hike to Rainbow Bridge is about 25 miles

352

round-trip and should be done as an overnight backpacking trip. It requires a

Navajo Nation hiking permit ($5 per person per day) and a camping permit ($5

per person per night), which are available through the Navajo Parks and Recre-

ation Department, at the Cameron Visitor Center ( 928/679-2303), in the community of Cameron near the turnoff for the Grand Canyon, and at the Antelope Canyon Tribal Park Office ( 928/698-2808), 3 miles south of Page on Navajo Rte. 20 (beside the LeChee Chapter House).

7

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Outlying Attractions

If you’ve spent any time in Arizona, chances are you’ve noticed photos of a narrow

sandstone canyon only a few feet wide. The pinkish-orange walls of the canyon

seem to glow with an inner light, and beams of sunlight slice the darkness of the

deep slot canyon. Sound familiar? If you’ve seen this, you were probably looking

at a photo of Antelope Canyon (sometimes called Corkscrew Canyon). Located 21⁄2

miles southeast of Page off Ariz. 98 (at milepost 299), this photogenic canyon com-

prises the Antelope Canyon/Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park

( 928/

698-2808; www.navajonationparks.org/htm/antelopecanyon.htm), which is on

the Navajo Nation and is divided into upper and lower canyons. The entry fee is

$6, and children 7 and under enter free. Late March through October, Antelope

Canyon is open daily from 8am to 5pm; November through late March, the can-

yon is open daily from 9am to 3pm, but closures are common.

Lake Powell & Page

There are currently two options for visiting Antelope Canyon. You can join a

tour that leaves from Page, or you can drive out to the slot canyon yourself. Either way, you’ll have to pay a guide. The most convenient and reliable way is to take one of the 11⁄2-hour tours that leave from Page. Try Antelope Canyon Tours, 22 S.

Lake Powell Blvd. ( 866/645-9102 or 928/645-9102; www.antelopecanyon.

com), which operates tours to Upper Antelope Canyon and charges $32 for

adults, $20 for children 8 to 12, and $14 for children 6 to 7. Photographic tours

cost $50, $35 for children 8 to 12, and $29 for children 3 to 7. If you don’t want

to deal with crowds of tourists ogling the rocks and snapping pictures with their

point-and-shoots, I recommend heading out with Overland Canyon Tours, 48

S. Lake Powell Blvd. ( 800/684-4072 or

928/608-4072; www.overlandcanyontours.

com), to nearby Canyon X, which is much

less visited than Antelope Canyon and is a

good choice for serious photographers who

want to avoid the crowds. These tours last 5

hours and cost $140. One other option for

avoiding the crowds is to book a tour with

Slot Canyon Hummer Adventures, 12

N. Lake Powell Blvd. ( 928/645-2266;

www.slotcanyonhummeradventures.com),

which leads tours to several other little-vis-

ited area slot canyons. A 21⁄2-hour tour is

$99 and a 5-hour tour is $159.

Alternatively, at both the upper and

lower canyons, you’ll find Navajo guides

collecting park entry fees and fees for guide

services. At Lower Antelope Canyon, these

guides charge $20 ($12 for children ages

The narrow, sandstone Antelope Canyon.

6–12). At Upper Antelope Canyon, guides 353

charge $25 ($10 for children ages 5–11). Upper Antelope Canyon is a short drive

up a sandy streambed from the highway, while Lower Antelope Canyon is a short

walk from the parking area just off the highway. You’ll get more out of your experi-

ence if you go on one of the guided tours mentioned above, but you’ll save a little

money by visiting the canyon on your own. For more information on visiting

7 Upper Antelope Canyon, contact Antelope Canyon Navajo Tours ( 928/

698-3384; www.navajotours.com); for information on Lower Antelope Canyon,

contact Ken’s Tours ( 928/606-2168; www.lowerantelope.com).

Just remember that if there’s even the slightest chance of rain in the region,

you should not venture into this canyon, which is subject to flash floods. In the past, people who have ignored bad weather predictions have been killed by such floods.

Outdoor Activities

While simply exploring the lake’s maze of canyons on a narrated tour is satisfying

enough for many visitors, the most popular activities are still houseboating,

Lake Powell & Page water-skiing, riding personal watercrafts, and fishing. Five marinas (only Wahweap is in Arizona) help boaters explore the lake. At the Wahweap Marina

( 888/896-3829 or 928/645-2433; www.lakepowell.com), you can rent vari-

ous types of boats, along with personal watercrafts and water skis. Rates range

from $400 to $600 per day, depending on the type of boat. Personal watercrafts

go for $335 per day, and sea kayaks rent for $44 per day. For information on rent-

ing houseboats, see “Where to Stay,” below. A variety of boats, including ski boats

and kayaks, can also be rented at Antelope Point Marina, 537 Marina Pkwy.,

Navajo Rte. 22B ( 928/645-5900; www.antelopepointlakepowell.com). Expect

to pay $375 to $425 per day for a ski boat and $30 to $45 per day for a kayak.

If roaring engines aren’t your speed, you might want to consider exploring

Lake Powell by sea kayak. While afternoon winds can sometimes make paddling

difficult, the air is often quite still in the morning. With a sea kayak, you can even THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

explore canyons too narrow for powerboats. Rentals are available at Twin Finn,

816 Copper Mine Rd. ( 928/660-9370; www.twinfinn.com). Sea kayaks rent

for $45 to $65 per day, and sit-on-top kayaks for $35 to $45. Multiday kayak tours

are operated by Hidden Canyon Kayak ( 928/660-1836; www.hidden

canyonkayak.com), which charges $350 for an overnight trip, $800 for a 3-day

trip, and $1,000 to $1,100 for a 5-day trip. Guided kayak trips are also offered by

Kayak Powell, 816 Coppermine Rd. ( 928/660-0778; www.kayaklake

powell.com), which charges $99 for a half-day tour and $139 for a full-day tour

(both of these tours have 2-person minimums); multiday tours range from $299

for a 2-day tour to $666 for a 5-day tour (both of these tours have 3-person mini-

mums). This latter company will also rent you a canoe, kayak, or stand-up

So, What’s with the Bathtub Ring?

You’ll notice that the red-rock cliff walls

a decade of drought that, at its worst,

above the waters of Lake Powell are no

left the lake level more than 130 feet

longer red but are instead coated with

below what is called “full pool” (when

what looks like a layer of white soap

the reservoir is full). Currently, the lake

scum. Those are calcium carbonate

level is down around 52 feet.

deposits left on the rock after more than

354

7

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

In a kayak, you can explore canyons too narrow for powerboats.

Lake Powell & Page

paddleboard and help you arrange to paddle the flat-water stretch of the Colo-

rado River below Glen Canyon Dam.

While most of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area consists of the

impounded waters of Lake Powell, the recreation area also contains a short

stretch of the Colorado River that still flows swift and free. If you’d like to see this stretch of river, try a float trip from Glen Canyon Dam to Lees Ferry. These trips

are operated by Colorado River Discovery ( 888/522-6644 or 928/645-

9175; www.raftthecanyon.com) between March and November. Half-day trips in

motorized rafts cost $85 for adults and $75 for children ages 4 to 11. Try to

reserve at least 2 weeks in advance. Spring and fall, this company also offers full-

day oar-powered raft trips ($161 for adults and $151 for children).

If you have a boat (your own or a rental), avail yourself of some excellent

year-round fishing. Smallmouth, largemouth, and striped bass, as well as walleye,

catfish, crappie, and carp, are all plentiful. Because the lake lies within both Arizona and Utah, you’ll need to know which state’s waters you’re fishing in when-

ever you cast your line out, and you’ll need the appropriate license. (Be sure to

pick up a copy of the Arizona and Utah state fishing regulations, or ask about

applicable regulations at any of the marinas.) In Wahweap, you can arrange

licenses to fish the entire lake at Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas

( 928/645-2433), which also sells bait and tackle and can provide you with

advice on fishing this massive reservoir. Other marinas on the lake also sell

licenses, bait, and tackle. The best season is March through November, but wall-

eye are most often caught during the cooler months. If you’d rather try your hand

at catching enormous rainbow trout, try downstream of the Glen Canyon Dam,

where cold waters provide ideal conditions for trophy trout. Unfortunately, there

isn’t much access to this stretch of river. You’ll need a trout stamp to fish for the rainbows. If you want a guide to take you where the fish are biting, contact Bill

McBurney at Ambassador Guides Services ( 928/606-5829 or 928/606-

0933; www.ambassadorguides.com).

355

If you’re just looking for a good place for a swim near Lake Powell Resort,

take the Coves Loop just west of the marina. Of the three coves, the third one,

which has a sandy beach, is the best. The Chains area, another good place to

jump off the rocks and otherwise lounge by the lake, is outside Page down a

rough dirt road just before you reach Glen Canyon Dam.

7

For a quick, easy hike with great views, head north on North Navajo Drive

from downtown Page. At the end of this street is the main trailhead for Page’s

Rimview Trail. This trail runs along the edge of Manson Mesa, upon which

Page is built, and has views of Lake Powell and miles of red-rock country. The

entire loop trail is 8 miles long, but if you want to do a shorter hike, I recommend the stretch of trail heading east (clockwise) from the trailhead. If you happen to

have your mountain bike with you, the trail is a great ride.

At Lees Ferry, a 39-mile drive from Page at the southern tip of the national

recreation area, you’ll find three short trails (Cathedral Wash, River, and Spen-

cer). The 2-mile Cathedral Wash Trail is the most interesting of the three day Lake Powell & Page hikes and follows a dry wash through a narrow canyon with unusual rock formations. The trailhead is at the second turnout after turning off U.S. 89A. Be aware

that this wash is subject to flash floods. The River Trail is a 2-mile round-trip hike along the river and starts at the boat ramp. The 4-mile round-trip Spencer

Trail, which begins along the River Trail, leads up to the top of a 1,700-foot cliff for spectacular views of Marble Canyon. Lees Ferry is also the southern trailhead

for famed Paria Canyon

, a favorite of canyoneering backpackers. This trail

is between 38 and 47 miles long (depending on where you start) and follows the

meandering route of a narrow slot canyon for much of its length. Most hikers

start from the northern trailhead, which is in Utah on U.S. 89. For more informa-

tion on hiking in Paria Canyon, contact the Bureau of Land Management’s Ver-

milion Cliffs National Monument, 345 E. Riverside Dr., St. George, UT

84790 ( 435/688-3200; www.blm.gov/az/st/en/fo/arizona_strip_field.html).

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

The 18-hole Lake Powell National Golf Course , 400 Clubhouse Dr.

( 928/645-2023; www.golflakepowell.com), is one of the most spectacular in

the state. The fairways wrap around the base of the red-sandstone bluff atop

which sits the town of Page. The views stretch on forever, and in places, eroded

Acrophobes, Beware!

If you have a fear of heights, there are a

below lie the clear green waters of the

couple of places in the Page area that

Colorado River, while upstream looms

you should never visit. On the other

Glen Canyon Dam.

hand, if you want some great views, then

If you’re up for a short hike, grab the

don’t miss the following two scenic vistas.

camera and head to the Horseshoe

As you drive down the hill from Page

Bend

viewpoint. Horseshoe Bend

on Lake Powell Boulevard (the road

is a huge loop of the Colorado River, and

toward Glen Canyon Dam from Page),

the viewpoint is hundreds of feet above

go straight through the intersection

the water on the edge of a cliff. It’s

instead of turning right toward the dam.

about a half mile to the viewpoint from

Here you’ll find a parking area and a

the trailhead, which is 5 miles south of

short path to a viewing platform perched

the Carl Hayden Visitor Center on U.S.

on the edge of sheer cliff walls. Far

89 just south of milepost 545.

356

sandstone walls come right down to the greens and fairways. Greens fees run $37

to $70 for 18 holes.

Where to Eat

Blue Buddha Sushi Lounge JAPANESE Maybe it’s the sight of all that

Lake Powell water and maybe it’s the hip, urban vibe, but whatever the reason, 7

this sushi restaurant is a big hit in Page. This stylish lounge/restaurant attracts a young crowd who come for creative sushi rolls. Blue lights and Buddha statues

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

everywhere set the mood. You’ll find this place down an alley next to Blair’s Trad-

ing Post.

644 N. Navajo Dr. www.bluebuddhasushi.com. 928/645-0007. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $8–$28; sushi $8–$12. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer Mon–Sat 5–10pm, Sun 5–9pm; other months Tues–Sat 5–9pm.

The Dam Bar & Grille AMERICAN This theme restaurant is a ware-

house-size space designed to conjure images of the interior of Glen Canyon

Dam. Inside, cement walls, hard hats, and a big transformer that sends out bolts

of neon “electricity” will put you in a “dam” good mood. Sandwiches, pastas, and

steaks dominate the menu, but the slow-roasted chicken is my favorite dish. The

lounge area is a popular local hangout, and next door is the affiliated Gunsmoke

Saloon nightclub. Kids will love the cool dam decor and old boats around the

inside of the restaurant.

Lake Powell & Page

644 N. Navajo Dr. www.damplaza.com. 928/645-2161. Reservations recommended in sum-

mer. Main courses $7–$25. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm (until 10pm in summer).

Ja’ di’To’oh AMERICAN Even if this wasn’t the only floating restaurant

on Lake Powell, I’d tell you to be sure to have a meal here while you’re in the area.

With big walls of glass (some of which roll up like garage doors) and a large patio

off the bar, this place is the perfect spot for lingering over a meal and drinks,

especially on a hot summer day. The water lapping at the floats and the sandstone

rising all around make this the quintessential Lake Powell dining experience.

Okay, so the menu isn’t very creative (a few pizzas, sandwiches, and wraps at

lunch and steaks, pasta, and chicken dishes at dinner), but the setting can’t be

beat.

Antelope Point Marina, 537 Marina Pkwy., Navajo Rte. 22B. www.antelopepointlakepowell.com.

928/645-5900. Main courses $8.75–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer daily 11am–9pm; other

months Fri–Sun 11am–8pm.

Rainbow Room AMERICAN/SOUTHWESTERN With sweeping vistas of

Lake Powell through the walls of glass, the Rainbow Room is both Page’s most

touristy and most expensive restaurant. However, since you won’t find views like

these too many other places, you might want to plan a sunset dinner here. Just

remember that if it’s already dark and there are no views, you might want to head

elsewhere. Also, be prepared for a wait; this place regularly feeds busloads of

tourists. The Rainbow Room’s menu is short but includes a few dishes with

Southwestern flavor. The adjacent bar has a knockout view through a long wall of

glass and is a good choice for lunch.

At Lake Powell Resort, 100 Lakeshore Dr. www.lakepowell.com. 888/896-3829. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$12 lunch, $10–$36 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–

2pm and 5–9pm. Closed Nov–Mar.

357

Where to Stay

HOUSEBOATS

Although there are plenty of hotels

and motels in and near Page, the

7 most popular accommodations here

are not waterfront hotel rooms, but

houseboats, which function as float-

ing vacation homes. With a house-

boat, which is as easy to operate as a

car, you can explore Lake Powell’s

beautiful red-rock country, far from

any roads. No special license or

prior experience is necessary, and

plenty of hands-on instruction is Visitors dock houseboats along Lake Powell.

Lake Powell & Page given before you leave the marina.

Because Lake Powell houseboating

is extremely popular with visitors from all over the world, it’s important to make

reservations as far in advance as possible, especially if you plan to visit in

summer.

Antelope Point Resort & Marina

At this marina, built atop the

world’s largest floating platform of its kind, you can rent some of the newest and

most luxurious houseboats on the lake (the larger ones even have outdoor hot

tubs). There are 50-foot, 59-foot, 70-foot, and 75-foot boats available, ranging in

quality from deluxe to luxury. Speedboats ($375–$515 per day), personal water-

craft ($375 per day), and sea kayaks ($30–$45 per day) can also be rented and

are a great way to explore smaller waterways that your houseboat can’t navigate.

To reach the marina, which has a floating restaurant, a market, and a cafe for ice

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

cream and coffee, head east out of Page on Ariz. 98 and drive 5 miles to the

signed Antelope Point Marina turnoff.

22 S. Navajo Dr., Page, AZ 86040. www.lakepowellhouseboating.com. 800/255-5561 or 928/645-5900. Fax 480/645-5914. $950–$2,114 per night. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($100

fee). Amenities: Concierge; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, kitchen.

Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas This is the original houseboat-rental

operation on Lake Powell, and houseboats here range in size from 46 to 75 feet,

sleep anywhere from 8 to 12 people, and come complete with showers and a fully

equipped kitchen. For deluxe on-the-water accommodations, opt for one of the

75-foot “Excursion” houseboats, which have hot tubs and fireplaces.

100 Lakeshore Dr., Page, AZ 86040. www.lakepowell.com. 888/896-3829 or 928/645-2433.

Fax 928/645-1031. Mid-June to late Sept $4,320–$15,000 per week; lower rates other months. 3-, 4-, 5-, and 6-night rates also available on most houseboats. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per day). In room: CD player, kitchen, no phone.

HOTELS & MOTELS

Best Western Arizonainn Perched right at the edge of the mesa on which

Page is built, this modern motel has a fine view across miles of desert. While the

guest rooms are unremarkable and are basically just standard motel rooms, about

half have lake views. Be sure to ask for one of these. If you can’t get a room with

a view, you can at least hang out by the pool; it’s got that same 100-mile view.

358

716 Rimview Dr., Page, AZ 86040. www.bestwestern.com. 800/826-2718 or 928/645-2466.

Fax 928/645-2053. 102 units. May–Sept $190–$300 double; Oct–Apr $60–$110 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Free airport transfers; Jacuzzi, small seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Courtyard by Marriott Located at the foot of the mesa on which Page is

7

built and adjacent to the Lake Powell National Golf Course, this is the top in-

town choice. It’s also the closest you’ll come to a golf resort in this part of the

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

state. Although you’ll pay a premium for views of the golf course or lake, it’s a

worthwhile investment. Guest rooms are larger than those at most area lodgings.

Moderately priced meals are served in a casual restaurant that has a terrace over-

looking the distant lake. The 18-hole golf course has great views of the surround-

ing landscape.

600 Clubhouse Dr. (P.O. Box 4150), Page, AZ 86040. www.marriott.com/pgacy. 877/905-4495 or 928/645-5000. Fax 928/645-5004. 153 units. $89–$209 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; 18-hole golf course; exercise room; Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Lake Powell Resort This hotel at the sprawling Wahweap Marina 5 miles

north of Page should be your first lodging choice in the area. The Lake Powell

Lake Powell & Page

Resort features lots of resort amenities and activities, but it is often overwhelmed by busloads of tour groups. Consequently, don’t expect very good service. Guest

rooms are arranged in several long two-story wings, and every unit has either a

balcony or a patio. Half of the rooms have lake views, and because those in the

east wing overlook a coal-fired power plant, you should try to get a room in the

west wing. The Rainbow Room (see “Where to Eat,” above) offers fine dining.

100 Lakeshore Dr., Page, AZ 86040. www.lakepowell.com. 888/896-3829 or 928/645-2433.

Fax 928/645-1031. 348 units. Apr–Dec $159–$229 double, $299–$359 suite; Jan–Mar $69–$129

double, $209–$259 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants; coffee bar; lounge; free airport transfers; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools; room service; sauna; watersports equipment/rentals, free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer.

CAMPGROUNDS

There are campgrounds at Wahweap and Lees Ferry in Arizona, and at Bullfrog, Hite, and Halls Crossing in Utah. Some scrubby trees provide a bit of shade

at the Wahweap site, but the wind and sun make this a rather bleak spot in sum-

mer. Nevertheless, because of the lake’s popularity, these campgrounds stay

packed for much of the year. Wahweap ( 888/896-3829) charges $24 to $44

per night (reservations are accepted), and Lees Ferry charges $12 (reservations

not accepted).

359

EASTERN

ARIZONA’S

8 HIGH

COUNTRY

Cactus and desert landscapes are what come to mind

when most people think of Arizona. But that’s only part of

the picture. Arizona actually has more mountainous

country than Switzerland and more forest than Minne-

sota, and most of these mountains and forests are here in

the highlands of eastern Arizona.

Folks from Phoenix and its surrounding cities discovered long ago how close the

8

White Mountains’ cool forests are and have for many decades built cabins and

weekend homes in this area. In only a few hours, you can drive up from the cacti

EASTERN

and creosote bushes to the meadows and pine forests.

Dividing the arid lowlands from the cool pine forests of the highlands is the

Mogollon Rim (pronounced Mug-ee-un by the locals), a 2,000-foot escarpment

A

that stretches for 200 miles from central Arizona into New Mexico. Along this

RIZONA

impressive wall, the climatic and vegetative change is dramatic, with sunshine at

the base and snow squalls at the top. This area was made famous by Western

author Zane Grey, who lived in a cabin near Payson and set many of his novels in

’

this scenic yet oft-overlooked part of Arizona. Fans of Grey’s novels can follow in

S H

the author’s footsteps and visit a small museum with an exhibit dedicated to

IGH

Grey.Trout fishing, hiking, horseback riding, and hunting are the main warm- COUNTR

weather pastimes of eastern Arizona, and in winter, many head to the White

Mountains for a bit of skiing.

Much of eastern Arizona is Apache reservation land. Recreational activities

Y

abound here, but remember that the Apache tribe requires visitors to have reser-

vation fishing permits and outdoor recreation permits.

The Best T

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN EASTERN ARIZONA

ravel Experiences in Easter

Separating fact from fiction at Fort Apache: While the name might con-

jure up images of the cavalry and a wooden stockade, the real Fort Apache is

very different from what Hollywood would have you believe. Learn the facts

at the Apache Cultural Center & Museum. See p. 367.

Rafting the Salt River: The white water in the impressive 2,000-foot-deep

Salt River Canyon is fed by spring snowmelt from the White Mountains. See

p. 368.

Escaping the heat in Greer: With its luxurious modern log homes, pine for-

ests, and the trout-filled waters of the Little Colorado River, Greer is a favorite

n Arizona

summer getaway among Arizonans. See p. 369.

previous page: The Mogollon Rim.

361

8

Greer Lodge.

Hiking Mount Baldy: At 11,590 feet tall, Mount Baldy is the second-highest

mountain in Arizona, and thus is quite the peak to bag. However, you can’t

actually hike to the summit of the mountain because this peak is sacred to the

White Mountain Apaches. See p. 370.

Touring the ruins at Casa Malpais Archaeological Park and Museum: Built

into cracks and shallow caves in a cliff outside the town of Springerville, this

Payson & the Mogollon Rim Country

pueblo ruin site is as fascinating as the state’s many cliff dwellings. See p. 374.

Y

PAYSON & THE MOGOLLON RIM

COUNTRY

OUNTR C 94 miles NE of Phoenix; 90 miles SE of Flagstaff; 90 miles SW of Winslow; 100 miles W of Pinetop-Lakeside

IGH H Payson, 94 miles from Phoenix and 5,000 feet above sea level, is one of the closest

’S

places for Phoenicians to find relief from the summer heat (summer temperatures

are 20° cooler than in the Valley of the Sun). The 2,000-foot-high, 200-mile-long

Mogollon Rim, the region’s main attraction, is only 22 miles north of town, and

RIZONA

the surrounding Tonto National Forest provides opportunities for hiking, swim-

A

ming, fishing, and hunting. The nearly perfect climate of Payson has also made

the town a popular retirement spot. Summer highs are usually in the 80s or 90s

(30s Celsius), while winter highs are usually in the 50s and 60s (teens Celsius).

ASTERNE

Essentials

GETTING THERE Ariz. 87, the Beeline Highway, connects Payson to Phoenix

and Winslow. Ariz. 260 runs east from Payson, climbing the Mogollon Rim

and continuing into the White Mountains.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Rim Country Regional Chamber of

Commerce, 100 W. Main St., Payson ( 800/672-9766 or 928/474-

4515; www.rimcountrychamber.com).

362

99

Holbrook

Petrified Forest

To Winslow

Lit

National Park

Eastern Arizona’s

tle Co

High Country

lo

180

377

ra

191

do

ZUNI

Rive

INDIAN

87

r

Snowflake

RES.

Strawberry

St. Johns

Pine

300

77

61

Lyman Lake

260

State Park

260

Tonto

M O G O L L O

Show Low

N R I

60

Natural

Payson

M

FORT

Pinetop-

Bridge

Springerville

State Park

Lakeside

APACHE

McNary

Eagar

INDIAN

Hon-Dah

260

APACHE-

TONTO

Young

RESERVATION

SITGREAVES

12

373

NATIONAL FOREST 288

73

NATIONAL

188

Whiteriver

Mt. Greer FORESTS

Theodore

87

Baldy

Alpine

Roosevelt

Fort Apache

Salt River 60

Lake

Apache

Lake

White River

191

Tonto National

88

Monument

SAN

Saguaro

77

CARLOS

Hannagan

Lake

88

Black River

APACHE

Meadows

Apache

Globe

Junction

INDIAN

8

RESERVATION

Trail

60

Superior

Coronado

G I L A

79

77

M O U N T A I N S

San Carlos

Gila River

Lake

0

20 mi

Florence

177

70

0

20 km

SPECIAL EVENTS Held every year since 1884 (when it started as a friendly gath-

ering of local ranchers and cowboys), the August Doins Rodeo claims to be

the world’s oldest continuous rodeo. The rodeo is held the third weekend in

August.

Exploring Payson

About 5 miles north of town, off Ariz. 87 on Houston Mesa Road, you can visit

the ruins of Shoofly Village, in the Tonto National Forest. This village was first occupied nearly 1,000 years ago by peoples related to the Hohokam and Salado.

It once contained 79 rooms, though today only rock foundations remain. An

interpretive trail helps bring the site to life.

To learn more about the history of the area, stop by the Rim Country

Museum, 700 Green Valley Pkwy. ( 928/474-3483; www.rimcountry

museums.com), which has displays on the region as well as a special Zane

Grey exhibit and a reconstruction of the cabin Grey lived in during his time in

the Payson area. The museum is open Monday and Wednesday through Saturday

from 10am to 4pm and Sunday from 1 to 4pm. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for

seniors, and $3 for children 12 to 18.

If you’re feeling lucky, spend some time and money at the Mazatzal

Casino ( 800/777-7529 or 928/474-6044; www.777play.com), half a mile

south on Ariz. 87. The casino is run by the Tonto Apaches.

363

Outlying Attractions

The area’s most popular attraction is

Tonto Natural Bridge State Park,

10 miles northwest of Payson on Ariz.

87 ( 928/476-4202; www.azstate

parks.com), which preserves the larg-

est natural travertine bridge in the

world. In 1877, gold prospector David

Gowan, while being chased by Apaches,

became the first white man to see this

8 natural bridge, which stands 183 feet

high and 150 feet across at its widest

point. Although it sounds very impres-

sive, this natural bridge is more of a

tunnel and looks nothing like the pic-

turesque sandstone arches in southern

Utah. Admission to the park is $5 for

adults and $2 for children 7 to 13. The

park is open Thursday through Mon- Tonto Natural Bridge State Park.

day from 9am to 5pm.

About 5 miles north of Tonto Natural Bridge State Park on Ariz. 87 you’ll

come to the village of Pine, and another 3 miles beyond this, the village of Strawberry. Here, in a quiet setting in the forest, you’ll find a few shops selling antiques and crafts and, in Pine, the Pine-Strawberry Museum, Ariz. 87, Pine ( 928/476-3547; www.pinestrawhs.org), a small museum that chronicles the

history of this area. May 15 to October 15, the museum is open Monday through

Payson & the Mogollon Rim Country Thursday from 10am to 2pm and Friday through Sunday from 10am to 4pm; other months the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 2pm.

Y

Admission is free. If you leave Ariz. 87 in Strawberry and drive west 13⁄4 miles on

Fossil Creek Road, you’ll come to the old Strawberry Schoolhouse (www.pine

strawhs.org/schoolhouse.html), a restored log building that dates from 1885 and

OUNTR

is the oldest standing schoolhouse in Arizona. The schoolhouse is open mid-May

C

to mid-October Saturday from 10am to 4pm and Sunday from noon to 4pm;

IGH H’S

A Pleasant Valley Detour

For a bit of back-road adventure, head

or Graham-Tewksbury Feud, it likely

RIZONA

south from the Mogollon Rim to the

erupted over conflicts about sheep graz-

A

remote community of Young, which sits

ing in the valley, and eventually the feud

in the middle of the aptly named Pleas-

took dozens of lives. Zane Grey memori-

ant Valley. The town can be reached only

alized the 1880s range war in his novel

ASTERN

via well-graded gravel roads—24 miles

To the Last Man.

E

of gravel if you come from the north, 32

You’ll find Young on Ariz. 288, which

miles from the south.

heads south from Ariz. 260 about mid-

Why visit Young? Most people come

way between Payson and Heber, and

just to see the land that spawned the

connects to Ariz. 188/88 north of Globe

worst range war and family feud in the

(near Theodore Roosevelt Lake).

West. Known as the Pleasant Valley War

364

mid-June through early August, the schoolhouse is also open Friday and Monday

from 10am to 4pm.

Scenic drives through this region are popular with visitors. One of the most

popular drives is along the top of the Mogollon Rim on 45-mile-long Forest

Road (F.R.) 300. The road clings to the edge of the rim and has numerous

views of the forest far below and plenty of places to stop, including lakes, picnic

areas, trailheads, and campgrounds. This is a good gravel road and can be negoti-

ated in summer in a standard passenger car. In winter, however, the road is not

maintained. To access the rim road from Payson, head east on Ariz. 260 or north

on Ariz. 87 for 30 miles and watch for signs.

Another interesting drive starts west of the Strawberry Schoolhouse. If you

continue west on this road, you’ll be on the gravel Fossil Creek Road

,

8

which leads 10 miles down into a deep and spectacular canyon. It’s a bit hair-

raising, but if you like views, it’s well worth the white knuckles and dust. At the

EASTERN

bottom, Fossil Creek offers some of the most idyllic little swimming holes you could ever hope to find.

A

Outdoor Activities

RIZONA

If you’d like to go horseback riding, try Kohl’s Ranch Stables, 288 Kohl Rd.

( 928/478-0030), which is just off Hwy. 260, 17 miles north of Payson. Rates start at $30 for a 1-hour ride.

’S

The Highline Trail is a 50-mile hike along the lower slope of the Mogollon

H

Rim. You can find out more about this and other area trails, and learn which ones

IGH

are open to mountain bikes, at the Payson Ranger Station, 1009 E. Ariz. 260

C

( 928/474-7900; www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto), at the east end of town.

OUNTR

You can also hike this area in the company of llamas that will carry your gear

for you. The Ranch at Fossil Creek, 10379 W. Fossil Creek Rd., Strawberry

( 928/476-5178; www.ranchatfossilcreek.com), offers half-day llama hikes

Y

($65 for adults, $40 for children 11 and under). Overnight stays in a yurt can be

Payson & the Mogollon Rim Country

Fossil Creek offers idyllic swimming holes.

365

arranged for $85. This ranch also raises goats and produces both goat cheese and

goats-milk fudge (both available for sale). Guided and self-guided tours of the

ranch’s facilities can be arranged

Where to Eat

Fargo’s Steakhouse STEAK This modern steakhouse next door to the

Majestic Mountain Inn is the classiest restaurant in town. The menu doesn’t

break any new ground, but you can get reliable steaks. For a starter, try the ten-

derloin skewers with Cajun dipping sauce. If you’re looking for something a little

lighter, consider the black and blue Caesar salad.

8 620 E. Ariz. 260. www.fargossteakhouse.com. 928/474-7455. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $8–$13 lunch, $14–$29 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Gerardo’s Firewood Cafe ITALIAN This casual southern Italian res-

taurant on the north side of Payson is a local favorite. The classics, including

lasagna, spaghetti and meatballs, shrimp scampi, and cioppino are here, and

there are also plenty of pizzas and a few vegetarian pasta dishes.

512 N. Beeline Hwy. www.gerardosbistro.com. 928/468-6500. Reservations recommended.

Pinetop-Lakeside Main courses $7–$16 lunch, $13–$24 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–8:30pm; Fri–Sun 11am–9pm.

Y

Where to Stay

Majestic Mountain Inn Although located in town, this hotel was built in an

OUNTR

attractive, modern mountain-lodge style that makes it the most appealing place

C

to stay right in Payson. There’s a large stone chimney and fireplace in the lobby,

IGH

and all of the deluxe and luxury rooms have fireplaces. The luxury units also have

H

tile floors and a double whirlpool tub facing the fireplace. The standard rooms

’S

aren’t as spacious or luxurious, but are still quite comfortable.

602 E. Ariz. 260, Payson, AZ 85541. www.majesticmountaininn.com. 800/408-2442 or 928/474-0185. Fax 928/472-6097. 50 units. $60–$150 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children RIZONA

17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 fee). Amenities: A

Access to nearby health club; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

CAMPGROUNDS

ASTERN

East of Payson on Ariz. 260 are several national forest campgrounds. These

E

include Upper Tonto Creek and Christopher Creek campgrounds. Neither

of these campgrounds takes reservations. Information is available from the Pay-

son Ranger Station, 1009 E. Ariz. 260 ( 928/474-7900; www.fs.fed.us/r3/

tonto), at the east end of town.

PINETOP-LAKESIDE

90 miles NE of Payson; 185 miles NE of Phoenix; 50 miles S of Holbrook; 140 miles SE of Flagstaff Pinetop-Lakeside, two towns that grew together over the years, is the busiest

community in the White Mountains. At first glance, it’s easy to dismiss the town

as one long commercial strip, but Pinetop-Lakeside has spent many years enter-

taining families during the summer months, and it has plenty of diversions to

keep visitors busy. But if you’re looking for a romantic weekend or solitude, Greer

is a better bet.

366

With Apache and Sitgreaves National Forests on one side and the unspoiled

lands of the White Mountain Apaches’ Fort Apache Indian Reservation on the

other, Pinetop-Lakeside is well situated for anyone who enjoys the outdoors.

Nearby are several lakes with good fishing; nearly 200 miles of hiking, mountain-

biking, and cross-country ski trails; horseback riding; and downhill skiing.

Although summer is the busy season, Pinetop-Lakeside becomes something of a

ski resort in winter. Sunrise Park ski area is only 30 miles away, and on weekends

the town is packed with skiers.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Pinetop-Lakeside is located on Ariz. 260, and is 90 miles east

of Payson.

8

VISITOR INFORMATION For information on this area, contact the Pinetop-

E

Lakeside Chamber of Commerce, 102-C W. White Mountain Blvd., Lake-

ASTERN

side, AZ 85929 ( 800/573-4031 or 928/367-4290; www.pinetoplakeside

chamber.com).

A

Outlying Attractions

RIZONA

If you want to learn more about the Apaches, drive south about 22 miles from

Pinetop-Lakeside to the Apache Cultural Center & Museum ( 928/338-

4625; www.wmat.nsn.us/fortapachepark.htm), in the town of Fort Apache,

’S H

which was established in 1870 by the U.S. government. The cultural center

IGH

includes a museum with small but informative exhibits on Apache culture. Out-

side the cultural center and down a short trail is a re-creation of a traditional

COUNTR

Apache village. The cultural center is open Monday through Friday (plus Sat in

summer) from 8am to 5pm. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for seniors and stu-

dents, and free for children 6 and under. The cultural center is on the grounds of

Y

a former Indian school that is now called the Fort Apache Historic Park and

includes a collection of more than 20 aging historic buildings.

Also in this area are the Kinishba Ruins. This 200-room pueblo ruin is

Pinetop-Lakeside

more than 1,000 years old and was visited by Coronado when he passed through

in search of the Seven Cities of Cíbola. Get directions to the ruins at the Cultural Center.

For more information on visiting the Fort Apache Indian Reservation, con-

tact the White Mountain Apache Tribe Office of Tourism ( 877/338-

9628; www.wmat.nsn.us/tourism.html), which is located in General Crook’s

cabin in Fort Apache Historic Park.

If you’re looking for something to do after dark, head out to the Hon-Dah

Casino, 777 Ariz. 260 ( 800/929-8744 or 928/369-0299; www.hon-dah.

com), owned and operated by the White Mountain Apache Tribe. It’s open daily

round-the-clock and is at the junction of Ariz. 73 and Ariz. 260, about 4 miles

east of Pinetop-Lakeside.

Outdoor Activities

Old forts and casinos aside, it’s the outdoors (and the cool weather) that really

draws people here. Fishing, hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding are

among the most popular activities. Between mid-May and the end of October, you

can saddle up at Porter Mountain Stables/Flag Hollow Ranch Equestrian

Center, 9031 Jacks Rd. ( 928/368-9599; www.flaghollowranch.com), which 367

charges $32 for adults ($29 for children) for a 1-hour ride, $50 for adults ($47 for children) for a 2-hour ride. Half-day, all-day, and sunset rides are also offered.

Meandering through the forests surrounding Pinetop-Lakeside are the 180

miles of trails of the White Mountains Trail System. Many of these trails are easily accessible (in fact, some are right in town) and are open to both hikers and

mountain bikers. The trails at Pinetop’s Woodland Lake Park are among my

favorites. The park is just off Ariz. 260 near the east end of Pinetop and has 6

miles of trails, including a paved path around the lake. For a panoramic vista of

the Mogollon Rim, hike the short, flat Mogollon Rim Interpretive Trail off

Ariz. 260 on the west side of Lakeside. For another short but pleasant stroll,

8 check out the Big Springs Environmental Study Area, on Woodland Road in

Lakeside. This quiet little preserve encompasses a small meadow through which

flows a spring-fed stream. There is often good bird-watching here. You can spot

more birds at Woodland Lake Park, mentioned above, and at Jacques Marsh, 2

miles north of Ariz. 260 on Porter Mountain Road in Lakeside. For more informa-

tion on area trails, contact the Lakeside Ranger District, 2022 W. White

Mountain Blvd., Lakeside ( 928/368-2100; www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf), on Ariz.

260 in Lakeside, or the Pinetop-Lakeside Chamber of Commerce (see “Visi-

tor Information,” above).

Pinetop-Lakeside

If you’re up here to catch the big one, you can try for native Apache trout, as

well as stocked rainbows, browns, and brookies. This is also the southernmost

Y

spot in the United States where you can fish for arctic graylings. Right in the

Pinetop-Lakeside area, try Woodland Lake, in Woodland Lake Park, toward the

east end of Pinetop and just south of Ariz. 260, or Show Low Lake, east of

OUNTR

Lakeside and north of Ariz. 260. On the nearby Fort Apache Indian Reservation,

C

there’s good fishing in Hawley Lake, which is east of Pinetop-Lakeside and

south of Ariz. 260. If you plan to fish at this latter lake, be sure to get a reservation IGH H fishing license ($7 per day). Licenses are available at the Hon-Dah Service

’S

Station, at Ariz. 260 and Ariz. 73 ( 928/369-4311), and at Hon-Dah Ski & Outdoor Sport, also at Ariz. 260 and Ariz. 73 ( 928/369-7669).

Several area golf courses are open to the public, including Pinetop Lakes

RIZONA

Golf & Country Club, 4643 Buck Springs Rd., Pinetop ( 928/369-4531;

A

www.pinetoplakesgolf.com), considered one of the best executive courses in the

state (play this one if you have time for only one round while you’re in the area);

Silver Creek Golf Club, 2051 Silver Lake Blvd., Show Low ( 928/537-

ASTERN

2744; www.silvercreekgolfclub.com); and the Bison Golf & Country Club, E

860 N. 36th Dr., Show Low ( 928/537-4564; www.bisongolf.net).

About 50 miles south of Show Low, U.S. 60 crosses a bridge over the nar-

row and scenic canyon of the Salt River. This stretch of the river is a favorite of

white-water rafters, and several companies offer rafting trips of varying lengths.

Try Wilderness Aware Rafting ( 800/462-7238; www.inaraft.com), Canyon Rio Rafting ( 800/272-3353; www.canyonrio.com), or Mild to Wild Rafting ( 800/567-6745; www.mild2wildrafting.com). Prices are between $119 and $151 for a day trip.

Where to Eat

Charlie Clark’s Steak House AMERICAN Charlie Clark’s, the oldest

steakhouse in the White Mountains, has been serving up thick, juicy steaks since

1938. Mesquite-broiled steaks and chicken, as well as seafood and prime rib, fill

the menu.

368

1701 E. White Mountain Blvd., Pinetop. www.charlieclarks.com. 888/333-0259 or 928/367-4900. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$23 lunch, $15–$40 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Where to Stay

Hon-Dah Resort Casino & Conference Center This hotel, adjacent

to the Hon-Dah Casino a few miles east of Pinetop-Lakeside, is the largest and

most luxurious lodging in the White Mountains. The portico is big enough to

hold a basketball court, and inside the front door is an artificial rock wall upon

which are mounted stuffed animals, including a cougar, a bobcat, a bear, ducks,

and even a bugling elk. Guest rooms are, for the most part, very spacious.

777 Ariz. 260 (at junction with Ariz. 73), Pinetop, AZ 85935. www.hon-dah.com. 800/929-8744

8

or 928/369-0299. Fax 928/369-0382. 128 units. $104–$124 double; $165–$195 suite. AE, DC, E

DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 lounges; Jacuzzi; year-round outdoor pool; room service; ASTERN

sauna. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Lake of the Woods Set on its own private lake right on Ariz. 260, Lake of

A

the Woods is a rustic mountain resort that caters primarily to families. Cabins

RIZONA

and houses range from tiny to huge, with rustic and modern side by side. The

smallest sleep two or three, while the largest can take up to 20; all have kitchens

and fireplaces. Be sure to request a location away from the busy highway and

’

ask for a newer cabin, as the accommodations vary considerably in quality.

S H

Kids, in particular, love this place: They can fish in the lake, row a boat, or play IGH

in the snow.

C

2244 W. White Mountain Blvd. (P.O. Box 777), Lakeside, AZ 85929. www.lakeofthewoodsaz.com.

OUNTR

928/368-5353. 33 units. $79–$249 cabin for 2 people. 3- to 4-night minimum stay in summer and on some holidays. Children 1 and under stay free in parent’s cabin. MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 fee). Amenities: 2 Jacuzzis; sauna; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi. In room: TV, Y

kitchen, no phone.

Gr

CAMPGROUNDS

eer & Sunrise Park

There are numerous campgrounds in the Pinetop-Lakeside area, including Fool

Hollow, Lewis Canyon, and Lakeside. Of these, Fool Hollow Lake Recre-

ation Area, 1500 N. Fool Hollow Lake Rd., Show Low (www.azstateparks.com;

928/537-3680), is the nicest. There are numerous campgrounds nearby on

the Fort Apache Indian Reservation. For information about these campgrounds,

contact the White Mountain Apache Tribe Wildlife and Outdoor Recre-

ation Division, 100 W. Fatco Rd., Whiteriver (www.wmatoutdoors.org; 928/

338-4385), or the White Mountain Apache Tribe Office of Tourism

(www.wmat.us/tourism.html; 877/338-9628).

GREER & SUNRISE PARK

51 miles SE of Show Low; 98 miles SE of Holbrook; 222 miles NE of Phoenix

The tiny community of Greer, set in the lush meadows on either side of the Little

Colorado River and surrounded by forests, is by far the most picturesque moun-

tain community in Arizona. The elevation of 8,525 feet usually ensures plenty

of snow in winter and pleasantly cool temperatures in summer. Modern log

homes are springing up all over the valley, but Greer is still free of the sort of

369

strip-mall developments that have forever changed the character of Payson and

Pinetop-Lakeside.

The Little Colorado River, which flows through the middle of Greer on

its way to the Grand Canyon, is little more than a babbling brook up here. Still,

it’s known for its trout fishing, one of the main draws in these parts. In winter,

cross-country skiing is popular. Greer is also the closest community to Sunrise

Park ski area.

In the summer of 2011, the massive Wallow Fire burned through the forests

all around Greer, but spared the community itself. Before heading out into the

national forest, you should be sure to check the status of area trails.

8 Essentials

GETTING THERE From Phoenix, take U.S. 87 N. to Payson and then go east on

Ariz. 260, or take U.S. 60 east from Phoenix through Globe and Show Low

to Ariz. 260. Greer is just a few miles south of Ariz. 260 on Ariz. 373.

VISITOR INFORMATION Online, contact the Business Council of Greer

(www.greerarizona.com).

Outdoor Activities

eer & Sunrise Park

Winter is one of the busiest seasons in Greer because the town is so close to the

Gr Sunrise Park Resort ski area ( 800/772-7669 or 928/735-7669; www.sunrise skipark.com). Located just off Ariz. 260 on Ariz. 273, this ski area, the largest and Y

most popular in Arizona, is operated by the White Mountain Apache Tribe. It

usually opens in November, but thaws and long stretches without snow can make

winters a bit unreliable. Although there are some good advanced runs, beginner

OUNTR

and intermediate skiers will be in heaven. I’ve rarely seen so many green runs

C

starting from the uppermost lifts of a ski area, which makes this a very family-

IGH

oriented place. The ski area encompasses three mountains, including 11,000-foot-

H

tall Apache Peak. A ski school offers a variety of lessons. Lift tickets cost $51 for

’S

adults, $43 for youths, and $28 for children 12 and under. Ski rentals are avail-

able here and at numerous shops in Pinetop-Lakeside.

More than 13 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails wind their way

RIZONA

through forests of ponderosa pines and across high snow-covered meadows at

A

Sunrise. These trails begin at the Sunrise General Store ( 928/735-7669,

ext. 2180), located at the turnoff for the downhill area. All-day trail passes are $7

for adults and $4 for children ages 10 to 14, and rental equipment is available.

ASTERNE

When there is enough snow, there are also good opportunities for cross-country

skiing in Greer. The alpine scenery in this area, much of which is at or near 8,500

feet, is quiet and serene.

Come summer, the ski slopes and cross-country ski trails become moun-

tain-biking trails and, when combined with the nearby Pole Knoll trail system (14 miles west of Springerville/Eagar on Ariz. 260), provide mountain bikers with 35 miles of trails of varying degrees of difficulty. In the summer, mountain

bikers can get an all-day lift pass for $20. If you aren’t mountain biking and just

want to ride the lift to the top of the mountain, the charge is $10 for adults and

$5 for seniors and children 12 and under.

This area offers some of the finest mountain hiking in Arizona, and my

favorite area trail is up 11,590-foot Mount Baldy , the second-highest peak

in Arizona. This peak lies on the edge of the Fort Apache Indian Reservation

370

8

EASTERN

Some of the best mountain hiking in the state is at Mount Baldy.

and the summit is off-limits to non-Apaches. There are two trailheads for the

A

hike. The West Baldy Trail, the most popular and scenic route, begins 6 miles RIZONA

south of Sunrise Park ski area (off the gravel extension of Ariz. 273) and follows

the West Fork of the Little Colorado River. This trail climbs roughly 2,000 feet

and is moderately strenuous, although the high elevation often leaves lowland

’S

hikers gasping for breath.

H

For an easier hike, try the Butler Canyon Trail, a 1-mile nature trail

IGH

through Butler Canyon, which is at the north end of Greer. To reach the trail-

C

head, take East Fork Road, which is 4 miles south of Ariz. 260. From the south

OUNTR

end of Greer, the East Fork Trail eventually leads to Mount Baldy. This trail starts with a steep 600-foot climb but then becomes a much easier ascent.

Another good choice for a day hike is the West Fork Trail, which begins north Y

of Greer on Osborne Road and meanders through forests and meadows. The

turnoff for the trail head is 41⁄4 miles south of Ariz. 260. If you hike any of these Gr

trails, expect to see signs of 2011’s huge Wallow Fire.

eer & Sunrise Park

Horseback riding in Greer can be arranged through Wiltbank Trail Rides,

38735 Ariz. 373, Greer ( 928/245-0171; www.wiltbankstables.com), which

charges $30 for a 1-hour ride, $50 for a 2-hour ride, and $70 for a 3-hour ride. In

winter, sleigh rides are available.

The three Greer Lakes on the outskirts of town—Bunch, River, and Tunnel

reservoirs—are popular fishing spots. All three hold brown and rainbow trout. On

River Reservoir, try the shallows at the south end. On Tunnel Reservoir, you A Cocoon of Creativity

The Butterfly Lodge Museum ( 928/

is a memorial to these two unusual and

735-7514; http://butterflylodgemuseum.

creative individuals who once called

org), located just off Ariz. 373 between

Greer home. It’s open Memorial Day to

Ariz. 260 and Greer, is a restored historic

Labor Day Thursday through Sunday

cabin built in 1914. Built by James Wil-

(and holidays) from 10am to 5pm. Admis-

lard Schultz (a writer) and his son Hart

sion is $2 for adults and $1 for youths

Merriam Schultz (a painter), the museum

12 to 17.

371

can often do well from shore, especially if you’re fly-fishing, though there is a boat launch. However, Big Lake, south of Greer, has the best fishing reputation here.

Fishing is also good on Sunrise Lake; be sure to get a Fort Apache Indian Reservation fishing license ($7 per day for adults, available at the Sunrise General Store).

Where to Eat

For filling breakfasts and delicious sweet rolls and cobbler, rendezvous at the

Rendezvous Diner, 117 Main St. ( 928/735-7483), which is housed in a log cabin that dates back to 1909. The diner is open Wednesday through Monday

from 7am to 4pm (8am–3pm in winter).

8 Molly Butler Lodge AMERICAN Although it may not look it, this restau-

rant has been in business since 1910 and is one of the oldest restaurants in the

state. However, the Molly Butler has been much updated over the years and now

sports a mountain-rustic look. The steaks are your best choices, but the chili’s

good, too. The bar here is a favorite après-fishing hangout and has live music on

Friday and Saturday nights.

109 Main St. www.mollybutlerlodge.com. 928/735-7226. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. May–Sept daily 11am–2pm and 5–9pm; Oct–Apr call for days and hours.

eer & Sunrise Park

Gr Where to Stay

Amberian Peaks Lodge and Restaurant Set on a hillside at the upper

Y

end of the valley, this luxurious lodge is just a few steps away from the waters of the Little Colorado River. The lodge, with its two-story stone fireplace, log beams above the lobby, and wide expanse of decks, is a great place to soak up Greer’s mountain-OUNTR C getaway atmosphere. There’s a wide range of accommodations, from large rooms and suites in the main lodge to spacious cabins. Throughout the lodge, the empha-IGH

sis is on comfort and tranquility. The restaurant is one of the best in Greer.

H’S 1 Main St. (P.O. Box 1), Greer, AZ 85927. www.peaksaz.com. 800/556-9997 or 928/735-9977.

25 units. $135–$195 double; $215–$295 suite; $198–$220 cabin. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s room. 2-night minimum on weekends, 3-night minimum on holidays. AE, DISC, MC, V.

RIZONA

Closed Nov 1–21 and Apr 1–May 1. Pets accepted in 2 cabins ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; A

lounge; concierge; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; room service; sauna; spa. In room: TV/VCR/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Hidden Meadow Ranch

This luxurious guest ranch is far and away the

ASTERN

best place to stay in the region. Set on 150 acres of pine forests, the ranch offers E

accommodations in large, modern log cabins that are rustic yet elegant and have

wood-burning fireplaces, slate-tiled bathrooms, soaking tubs, and loft bedrooms.

The dining room here serves the best food in the White Mountains. In summer,

horseback riding and fly-fishing are the most popular activities, while in winter

there are sleigh rides and cross-country skiing.

P.O. Box 300, Greer, AZ 85927. www.hiddenmeadow.com. 866/333-4080 or 928/333-1000.

Fax 928/333-1010. 12 units. $525–$600 double. Rates include all meals and ranch activities.

Children 3 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20). Amenities: Restaurant; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; Jacuzzi; room service. In room: CD player, hair dryer, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Snowy Mountain Inn Set back from the main road down a long gravel

driveway and shaded by tall pines, the Snowy Mountain Inn has a remote yet

372

comfortable feel about it. The modern cabins, although a bit cramped, are great

for family vacations; they come equipped with gas fireplaces, porches, and sleep-

ing lofts, and all but one have outdoor hot tubs. Surrounding the log cabins and

main lodge are 10 acres of private forest. There’s a trout pond and a playground.

The lodge’s restaurant is a sports bar.

38721 Rte. 373, Greer, AZ 85927. www.snowymountaininn.com. 888/766-9971 or 928/735-7576. Fax 928/735-7705. 8 units. $175–$225 cabin. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($15 per day).

Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: TV/VCR, kitchen, no phone.

CAMPGROUNDS

In the immediate vicinity of Greer are a couple of nice campgrounds in Apache

and Sitgreaves National Forests. Contact the National Recreation Reserva-

8

tion Service ( 877/444-6777 or 518/885-3639; www.recreation.gov) to

make reservations for both the Rolfe C. Hoyer Campground ($16 per night),

EASTERN

1 mile north of Greer on Ariz. 373, and the Winn Campground ($14 per night),

12 miles southwest of Greer on Ariz. 273 (the road past Sunrise Park Resort).

Because of its proximity to Greer and the Greer Lakes, Rolfe C. Hoyer is your

A

best choice in the area. There are also several campgrounds nearby on the Fort

RIZONA

Apache Indian Reservation (no reservations accepted).

SPRINGERVILLE & EAGAR

’S H

56 miles E of Show Low; 82 miles SE of Holbrook; 227 miles NE of Phoenix

IGH

Together the adjacent towns of Springerville and Eagar constitute the northeast-

C

ern gateway to the White Mountains. Although the towns themselves are at the

OUNTR

foot of the mountains, the vistas from around Springerville and Eagar take in all

the area’s peaks. The two towns also like to play up their Wild West back-

grounds—John Wayne liked the area so much that he had a ranch along the

Y

Little Colorado River just west of Eagar. Today, large ranches run their cattle on

the windswept plains north of the towns.

Springerville & Eagar

Volcanic activity between 300,000 and 700,000 years ago left the land north

of the twin towns dotted with cinder cones and gave the land its distinctive char-

acter. Containing 405 extinct volcanic vents, the area known as the Springerville

Volcanic Field is the third-largest volcanic field of its kind in the continental

United States. For a brochure outlining a tour of the volcanic field, contact the

Springerville-Eagar Chamber of Commerce (see “Visitor Information,” below).

Essentials

GETTING THERE Springerville and Eagar are in the northeast corner of the

White Mountains at the junction of U.S. 60, U.S. 180/191, and Ariz. 260.

From Phoenix, there are two routes: Ariz. 87 N. to Payson and then east on

Ariz. 260, or U.S. 60 east to Globe and then north to Show Low and on to

Springerville (or you can take Ariz. 260 from Show Low to Springerville).

From Holbrook, take U.S. 180 southeast to St. Johns and U.S. 180/191

south to Springerville. From southern Arizona, U.S. 191 is very slow but

very scenic.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information on the Springerville and Eagar areas,

contact the Springerville-Eagar Chamber of Commerce, 418 E. Main

St., Springerville ( 928/333-2123; www.springerville-eagarchamber.com).

373

8

Casa Malpais Archaeological Park.

Springerville & Eagar Exploring Springerville & Eagar

A couple of small museums are worth a look if you have the time. The Reneé

Y

Cushman Art Museum is housed in the LDS (Mormon) Church in Springer-

ville. It consists of one woman’s personal collection of European art and antiques.

Among the works are an etching attributed to Rembrandt and three pen-and-ink

OUNTR

drawings by Tiepolo. The museum is open by appointment only. Contact the

C

Springerville-Eagar Chamber of Commerce, 418 E. Main St., Springerville

IGH

( 928/333-2123; www.springerville-eagarchamber.com) to arrange a visit.

H

Local history and old automated musical instruments are the focus of the X

’S

Diamond Ranch’s Little House Museum ( 928/333-2286; www.xdiamond

ranch.com), 7 miles west of Eagar on South Fork Road, off Ariz. 260. Tales of

colorful Wild West characters as told by the guide are as much a part of the

RIZONA

museum as the displays themselves. Museum visits are by reservation only and

A

cost $8 for adults and $4 for children 11 and under. The X Diamond Ranch also

has a Native American archaeological site that is open to the public. Combination

museum and archaeological site tours are $12 for adults and $6 for children.

ASTERNE

Casa Malpais Archaeological Park and Museum RUINS The

Casa Malpais ruins are unique in Arizona in that the pueblo, which was con-

structed around 1250 and was occupied until about 1400, was built to take

advantage of existing caves. Many of these caves form a system of catacomb-like

rooms under the pueblo. The only way to visit the ruin is on guided tours that

leave from the Casa Malpais museum, which is located in downtown Springer-

ville. At the museum, you’ll find exhibits on both the Mogollon people and dino-

saurs that once roamed this region.

418 E. Main St., Springerville. www.casamalpais.org. 928/333-5375. Guided tours $8 adults, $6 seniors, $5 children. Museum Mon–Sat 8am–4pm. Tours daily 9am, 11am, and 2pm (weather permitting). Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

374

Lyman Lake State Park NATURAL ATTRACTION Although this state

park is most popular with anglers and water-skiers, it also contains both petro-

glyphs that date back thousands of years and the ruins of an early Ancestral

Puebloan village called Rattlesnake Point Pueblo. Contact the park to inquire

about guided tours both to petroglyphs and the ruins. Note: For budgetary reasons, this park may only be open during the summer; please contact the park

before your visit to confirm that they are open.

On U.S. 180/191, 18 miles north of Springerville. www.azstateparks.com. 928/337-4441.

Outdoor Activities

Anglers can head out to the X Diamond Ranch ( 928/333-2286; www.

xdiamondranch.com), off Ariz. 260 between Eagar and Greer (take C.R. 4124). 8

The ranch maintains a section of the Little Colorado River as a fly-fishing stream.

E

The half-day fishing rate is $30, while a full day costs $40. Horseback rides are

ASTERN

also available, with options ranging from 1 hour ($25) to a full day ($150).

For a chance to see pronghorn antelope, elk, and mule deer, head south of

Eagar to the Sipe White Mountain Wildlife Area. This grassy valley at the

A

foot of the White Mountains was once a cattle ranch, and today the old ranch

RIZONA

house serves as a visitor center that’s open daily from 8am to 5pm between mid-

May and mid-October. Several miles of hiking trails wind through forest and

pasture and past lakes and ponds. There’s good bird-watching here, too. Sipe is 5

’S

miles down a gravel road that begins 2 miles south of Eagar off U.S. 180/191. For

H

more information, contact the Arizona Game & Fish Department, Pinetop

IGH

Regional Office, 2878 E. White Mountain Blvd., Pinetop ( 928/367-4281;

C

www.gf.state.az.us).

OUNTR

Where to Eat

Head to Java Blues Coffee Bar & Bistro, 341 E. Main St. ( 928/333-

Y

5282), for coffee, sandwiches, quiche, salads, and desserts. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 7am to 9pm and Sunday from 7am to 3pm.

The Cor

Where to Stay

onado T

X Diamond Ranch Well known in the area for its Little House Museum (see

above) and trout fishing on the Little Colorado River, this ranch off Ariz. 260

between Eagar and Greer also rents a variety of cabins. Activities include fishing,

rail

horseback riding, and touring the ranch’s museum and archaeological site.

There’s no restaurant on the premises, but cabins have full kitchens.

P.O. Box 113, Greer, AZ 85927. www.xdiamondranch.com. 928/333-2286. 7 units. Apr–Oct $110–$175 double; Nov–Mar $95–$155 double. Children 1 and under stay free in parent’s room.

AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen, no phone (in some units).

THE CORONADO TRAIL

Alpine: 28 miles S of Springerville; 75 miles E of Pinetop-Lakeside; 95 miles N of Clifton Winding southward from the Springerville-Eagar area to Clifton and Morenci,

the Coronado Trail (U.S. 191) is one of the most remote and little-traveled paved

roads in the state. The narrow, winding makes a good leisurely scenic drive, but

it’s not for those prone to carsickness.

375

8

rail

Alpine serves as a base for outdoor explorers.

onado T

The Coronado Trail is named for the Spanish explorer Francisco Vásquez de

Coronado, who came to Arizona in search of gold in the early 1540s. Although he

The Cor never found it, his party did make it as far north as the Hopi pueblos. Centuries later, the discovery of huge copper reserves would make the fortunes of the towns

Y

of Clifton and Morenci, at the southern end of the Coronado Trail.

Alpine, at the northern end of the Coronado Trail, is the main base for

today’s explorers, who tend to be outdoor types in search of uncrowded trails and

OUNTR

streams where the trout are biting. Located near the New Mexico state line,

C

Alpine offers a few basic lodges and restaurants, plus easy access to the region’s

IGH

many trails.

H

This area is known as the Alps of Arizona, and Alpine’s picturesque setting

’S

in the middle of a wide grassy valley at 8,030 feet certainly lives up to this image.

Alpine is surrounded by the Apache and Sitgreaves National Forests, which

together have miles of trails and numerous campgrounds. In spring, wildflowers

RIZONA

abound and the trout fishing is excellent. In summer, there’s hiking and moun-

A

tain biking on forest trails. The area was also once known for its autumn display

of golden aspens in the Golden Bowl on the mountainside above Alpine, but a

forest fire in 2011 burned many of the area’s aspens. In winter, visitors come for

ASTERN

the cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and ice-fishing.

E

Essentials

GETTING THERE Alpine is 28 miles south of Springerville and Eagar at the junc-

tion of U.S. 191, which continues south to Clifton and Morenci, and U.S.

180, which leads east into New Mexico.

VISITOR INFORMATION For more information on the region, contact the

Alpine Area Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 410, Alpine, AZ 85920

( 928/339-4656; www.alpinearizona.com). For outdoor information,

contact the Apache and Sitgreaves National Forests’ Alpine Ranger Dis-

trict, 42634 U.S. 180 (P.O. Box 469), Alpine, AZ 85920 ( 928/339-

5000; www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf).

376

Exploring the Coronado Trail

There are only a few places in Arizona where the fall color is worth a drive, and

this has long been one of them. Unfortunately, the hike up Escudilla Moun-

tain, just outside Alpine, no longer boasts the gorgeous displays of golden aspens that it did before the Wallow Fire of 2011 raged through the area. But if you’re

up for a strenuous hike, the Escudilla National Recreation Trail will take you 3

miles to the summit of the mountain (6 miles round-trip) and involves more than

1,300 feet of elevation gain. In winter, there’s cross-country skiing not far outside Alpine at the Williams Valley Winter Recreation Area, which doubles as a

mountain-biking trail system in summer. If you’re looking to fish, try Luna Lake, east of Alpine off U.S. 180. Here at the lake, you’ll also find some easy-to-moderate mountain-bike trails that usually offer good wildlife-viewing opportunities.

8

Summer or winter, Hannagan Meadows, 23 miles south of Alpine, is the

E

place to be. Here you’ll find excellent hiking, mountain biking, and cross-country

ASTERN

ski trails. Hannagan Meadows also provides access to the Blue Range Primi-

tive Area, which is popular with hikers.

A

Where to Stay & Eat

RIZONA

Between Springerville-Eagar and Clifton-Morenci, there are nearly a dozen

National Forest Service campgrounds. If fishing and boating interest you, head

to Luna Lake Campground, just east of Alpine on U.S. 180, where the

’S

daily campsite fee is $12. Reserve a Luna Lake campsite through the National

HIGH

Recreation Reservation Service ( 877/444-6777 or 518/885-3639; www.

recreation.gov). For a more tranquil forest setting, try the free Hannagan

C

Campground (reservations not accepted), which makes a good base for explor-

OUNTR

ing the Coronado Trail. For information on these campgrounds, contact the

Alpine Ranger District ( 928/339-5000).

Y

Hannagan Meadow Lodge Located 22 miles south of Alpine, this rustic

lodge dates back to 1926 and is set amid cool forests. With both rustic pine-

The Cor

paneled cabins and lodge rooms done up primarily with pastel-colored quilts and

wrought-iron beds, this place offers comfortable, if dated, accommodations and

is a good spot for a quiet getaway or a family vacation. It’s a good base for hiking onado T

and horseback riding in summer; or cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in

winter.

HC 61, (P.O. Box 335), Alpine, AZ 85920. www.hannaganmeadow.com. 928/339-4370. 18

rail

units. $85–$175 double; $150–$200 cabin. Children stay free in parent’s room. DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted in cabins ($20 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi. In room: No phone.

Tal-Wi-Wi Lodge Located 4 miles north of Alpine on U.S. 191, Tal-Wi-Wi

Lodge is nothing fancy—just a rustic lodge popular with anglers and hunters—

but it’s the best choice in the area. The deluxe rooms come with a hot tub or

woodstove (one unit has both). The furnishings are rustic yet comfortable, and

the wood-paneled walls and large front porches give the lodge a classic country

flavor. The dining room serves country breakfasts and dinners.

U.S. 191 (P.O. Box 169), Alpine, AZ 85920. www.talwiwilodge.com. 928/339-4319. Fax 928/339-1962. 20 units. $80–$110 double. 2-night minimum stay on summer holiday weekends.

MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per day). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: No phone, free Wi-Fi.

377

9

TUCSON

Encircled by mountain ranges and bookended by the two

units of Saguaro National Park, Tucson is Arizona’s second-

largest city, and it has everything that Phoenix has to offer,

plus a bit more. As in Phoenix, there are world-class golf

resorts; excellent restaurants, art museums, and galleries; an

active cultural life; and plenty of great weather. However, Tucson also has

a long history that melds Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo roots,

and with a national park and a national forest on its outskirts, it is the ideal

base for exploring the Sonoran Desert.

Things to Do Tucson is Arizona’s best base for exploring the surprisingly lush

Sonoran Desert. Get an introduction to the region at the Arizona-Sonora Des-

9

ert Museum, then explore Saguaro National Park. Sabino Canyon Recreation Area and Tohono Chul Park are two more good places to get a feel for TUCSON

this desert. Tucson is also home to the sacred (Mission San Xavier del Bac)

and the profane (the Titan Missile Museum), which is affiliated with the

sprawling Pima Air & Space Museum.

Active Pursuits Flanked by the two units of Saguaro National Park and

Intr

framed by the Santa Catalina Mountains, Tucson is one of the top hiking

destinations in the state. The Pima Canyon and Ventana Canyon trails head oduction

into the wilderness from the edge of the city’s affluent foothills suburbs, and at

Sabino Canyon Recreation Area and within Saguaro National Park’s two

units, there are many more miles of desert trails. Golfers will find some of the

state’s most scenic fairways at such courses as Ventana Canyon Golf and Rac-

quet Club and Starr Pass Tucson Golf Club.

Restaurants & Dining There is so much great Mexican food in Tucson that

you could easily eat nothing but Mexican on your vacation and not grow tired of

it. Many of the city’s most memorable Mexican dishes ( carne seca at El Charro, Sonoran hot dogs at El Guero Canelo) are rarely available much farther north

of the border. Add the Nuevo Mexican cuisine served at such restaurants as

Janos and Poca Cosa, and you have a restaurant scene as vibrant as the flavors on the plates.

Nightlife & Entertainment All that Mexican food means that there are

great margaritas to be had in Tucson. Try one made with prickly-pear cactus

syrup for a uniquely Sonoran version of the classic Mexican cocktail. At many

Mexican restaurants around town, you can also listen to mariachi musicians

while you dine. For a distinctly different sort of night-time entertainment, try star gazing through the telescope at UA Science Flandrau or have a drink in a solar-powered star-themed bar (Sky Bar).

previous page: Mission San Xavier del Bac.

379

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN TUCSON

Hiking a desert canyon at dawn: There are few places where a dawn hike is

more rewarding than the desert. Head to a trail in the foothills of the Santa

Catalinas and you’re likely to spot all kinds of interesting wildlife. See p. 400.

Communing with hummers: At the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, a walk-

in aviary lets you get nose to bill with dozens of hummingbirds, the desert’s

diminutive winged jewels. Visit as early as possible to avoid the crowds. See

p. 402.

Riding the tram up Sabino Canyon: Ride an open-air tram deep into the

Santa Catalina Mountains’ Sabino Canyon and then hike further into the wil-

derness or back down the canyon to the visitor center. Along the paved tram

route, there are numerous picnic areas and places to splash in the creek on

hot days. See p. 400.

9

Marveling at the White Dove of the Desert: Mission San Xavier del Bac,

which dates from the late 18th century, is one of the most beautiful and best

preserved Spanish mission churches in the Southwest. Colorful frescos cover

the interior walls. See p. 404.

ucson

Sunset at Signal Hill: The best place to finish an afternoon of exploring the

west unit of Saguaro National Park is at Signal Hill. Ancient petroglyphs atop

this small hill catch the light of the setting sun. See p. 404.

ORIENTATION

Tucson is small enough to be convenient, yet large enough to be sophisticated.

The mountains ringing Tucson are bigger and closer to town than those in Phoe-

ravel Experiences in T

nix, which gives Tucson a more dramatic skyline, and the desert here is closer

and more easily accessed than in Phoenix.

Arriving

The Best T BY PLANE Located 6 miles south of downtown, Tucson International Air-

port, 7250 S. Tucson Blvd. ( 520/573-8100; www.tucsonairport.org), is

served by the following major airlines: Alaska Airlines ( 800/252-7522;

www.alaskaair.com), American ( 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Conti-

UCSON

nental ( 800/523-3273; www.continental.com), Delta ( 800/221-1212;

T

www.delta.com), Frontier ( 800/432-1359; www.flyfrontier.com), South-

west ( 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com), United ( 800/864-8331;

www.ua.com), and US Airways ( 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com).

Visitor centers in both baggage-claim areas can give you brochures

and reserve a hotel room if you haven’t done so already.

Many resorts and hotels in Tucson provide a free or competitively

priced airport shuttle service. Arizona Stagecoach ( 877/782-4355 or

520/889-1000; www.azstagecoach.com) operates 24-hour van service to

downtown Tucson and the foothills resorts. Fares to foothills resorts are

around $44 to $50 one-way and $80 to $92 round-trip ($52 to $58 one way

and $96 to $108 round trip for a couple). It takes between 45 minutes and

1 hour to reach the foothills resorts. To return to the airport, it’s best to call

at least a day before your scheduled departure.

380

One of the many decorated bus stops in downtown Tucson.

9

T

You’ll also find taxis waiting outside baggage claim, or you can call Dis-

UCSON

count Cab ( 520/388-9000; www.discountcab.com). The flag-drop

rate at the airport is $4.50, and then $2.25 per mile. A taxi to downtown

costs around $25, to the foothills resorts about $30 to $50.

Sun Tran ( 520/792-9222; www.suntran.com), the local public

Orientation

transit system, operates bus service to and from the airport. The fare is

$1.50. Route no. 6, to downtown, runs Monday through Friday from about

4:30am to 10:50pm, Saturday from about 6:15am to 8:15pm, and Sunday

from about 6:15am to 7:15pm. Departures are mostly every 30 to 60 min-

utes on weekdays and every hour on weekends. It takes 40 to 50 minutes to

reach downtown. Route no. 11 operates on a similar schedule and travels

along Alvernon Road to the midtown area.

BY CAR I-10, the main east-west interstate across the southern United States, passes through Tucson and connects to Phoenix. I-19 connects Tucson

with the Mexican border at Nogales. Ariz. 86 heads southwest into the

Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation, and Ariz. 79 leads north toward Flor-

ence and eventually connects with U.S. 60 into Phoenix.

If you’re headed downtown, take the Congress Street exit off I-10. If

you’re coming from the north and going to one of the foothills resorts north

of downtown, take the Ina Road exit off I-10.

BY TRAIN Tucson is served by Amtrak ( 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) passenger rail service. The Sunset Limited, which runs between New

Orleans and Los Angeles, stops in Tucson, as does the Texas Eagle, which

runs between Los Angeles and Chicago. The train station is at 400 E.

Toole Ave., in the heart of downtown and within walking distance of the

Tucson Convention Center, El Presidio Historic District, and a few hotels.

You’ll see taxis waiting to meet the train; see “Getting Around,” below, for

more info.

BY BUS Greyhound ( 800/231-2222 or 520/792-3475; www.greyhound.

com) connects Tucson to the rest of the United States through its extensive

system. The bus station is at 471 W. Congress St.

381

d.

Si

To Phoenix

lvd.

lve

Broadway Blvd. 7

r

CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST

b

Cortaro Farms Rd.

e

Tucson at a Glance

l

d. l R

Campbell Ave. 6

Magee Rd.

d.

10

Country Club Rd. 11

ade R

Tohono Chul

.

El Presidio

W

r

Park

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

Historic District 3

hola B

a D

Ina Rd.

Sabino Canyon

d

1

Recreation

Thornydale R

a

The Foothills 1

La C

n

K

a

ol

Area

b R

Grant Rd. 8

Orange Grove Rd.

a C

Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

L

Mission San Xavier

d.

del Bac 14

Oracle Rd. 2

Sunset Rd.

Sunrise Dr.

Sabino Canyon Rd.

SAGUARO

2

.

K

d.

Saguaro

NATIONAL

.

d

d

o

R

lb R

National Park 10, 15

PARK

Ruthrauff

. River Rd.

t Rf

El Camino de Cerro

n R

o

Speedway Blvd. 5, 9

Rd.

.

d

r

a

Snyder Rd.

d

c

d

s R

w

y

.

n

l Wetmore Rd.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

S

a

Tucson Convention

r

o

o R

l

y

r

e

C

na

Center 4

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger .Rd.

m

g W

ve.

e

C

Tucson Electric Park 12

o

n

v

R

i

A

este

w

Prince Rd.

River

o

Tucson International

l

.

Rd.

F

dR

.

Airport 13

de O

Ft. L

ev owell Rd.

o

Miracle Mile

.

Ft. Lowell

Bear

n i

d

.

v

Park

m

l

d

ya

a

15

l A

To Saguaro National Park (West),

C

Ironwood Hi

l

ll Dr.

Grant Rd.

d

e

8

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

To Mount

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

e

i

l

l

b

& Old Tucson

c

c

p

b R

Lemmon

10

a

u

r

E

m

n B

ul

n W

O

Stone A

a

o

C

s

o

Tucson Mountain

c

n

Speedway Blvd.

5

u

r

Speedway Blvd.

9

G

6

T

y Cr

e

Park

r

t

vl

d.

Rd.

a

6th St. n

A

d.

n

u

5th St.

ass

Anklam Rd.

d

o

e A

3

C

.

ot R

Gates P

7

Broadway Blvd.

.

d

Kolb R

Congress

4

d

t R

ilm

v

f

W

e

K

Historic

Reid

n R

o

i

.

n

a

rc

ney

Districts

Park

w

y

To

10

R

Sentinel

22nd St.

S

ar

d

210

C

22nd St.

Saguaro National

.

11

Silverlake Rd.

Peak

Park (East)

Park

Tucson

Greyhound 36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

Park

d.

Bopp R

eco

d.

Ajo Way

12

Escalante Rd.

.dvl

ino S

ay

10

D A V I S

Rd.

Pantano R

M O N T H A N

Cam

Ajo W

Irvington Rd.

Irvington Rd.

o Bn

A F B

i

d.

86

K

Drexel Rd.

erde R

Kolb

ve.

ve.

Flagstaff

Palo V

Valencia Rd.

Valencia Rd.

ARIZONA

d.

12th A

6th A

13

Phoenix

Tucson

Los Reales Rd.

14

ission R

19

Tucson

M

International

10

Airport

0

2 mi

SAN XAVIER

INDIAN RESERVATION

To Nogales

0

2 km

382

d.

Si

To Phoenix

lvd.

lve

Broadway Blvd. 7

r

CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST

b

Cortaro Farms Rd.

e

Tucson at a Glance

l

d. l R

Campbell Ave. 6

Magee Rd.

d.

10

Country Club Rd. 11

ade R

Tohono Chul

.

El Presidio

W

r

Park

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

Historic District 3

hola B

a D

Ina Rd.

Sabino Canyon

d

1

Recreation

Thornydale R

a

The Foothills 1

La C

n

K

a

ol

Area

b R

Grant Rd. 8

Orange Grove Rd.

a C

Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

L

Mission San Xavier

d.

del Bac 14

Oracle Rd. 2

Sunset Rd.

Sunrise Dr.

Sabino Canyon Rd.

SAGUARO

2

.

K

d.

Saguaro

NATIONAL

.

d

d

o

R

lb R

National Park 10, 15

PARK

Ruthrauff

. River Rd.

t Rf

El Camino de Cerro

n R

o

Speedway Blvd. 5, 9

Rd.

.

d

r

a

Snyder Rd.

d

c

d

s R

w

y

.

n

l Wetmore Rd.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

S

a

Tucson Convention

r

o

o R

l

y

r

e

C

na

Center 4

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger .Rd.

m

g W

ve.

e

C

Tucson Electric Park 12

o

n

v

R

i

A

este

w

Prince Rd.

River

o

Tucson International

l

.

Rd.

F

dR

.

Airport 13

de O

Ft. L

ev owell Rd.

o

Miracle Mile

.

Ft. Lowell

Bear

n i

d

.

v

Park

m

l

d

ya

a

15

l A

To Saguaro National Park (West),

C

Ironwood Hi

l

ll Dr.

Grant Rd.

d

e

8

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

To Mount

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

e

i

l

l

b

& Old Tucson

c

c

p

b R

Lemmon

10

a

u

r

E

m

n B

ul

n W

O

Stone A

a

o

C

s

o

Tucson Mountain

c

n

Speedway Blvd.

5

u

r

Speedway Blvd.

9

G

6

T

y Cr

e

Park

r

t

vl

d.

Rd.

a

6th St. n

A

d.

n

u

5th St.

ass

Anklam Rd.

d

o

e A

3

C

.

ot R

Gates P

7

Broadway Blvd.

.

d

Kolb R

Congress

4

d

t R

ilm

v

f

W

e

K

Historic

Reid

n R

o

i

.

n

a

rc

ney

Districts

Park

w

y

To

10

R

Sentinel

22nd St.

S

ar

d

210

C

22nd St.

Saguaro National

.

11

Silverlake Rd.

Peak

Park (East)

Park

Tucson

Greyhound 36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

Park

d.

Bopp R

eco

d.

Ajo Way

12

Escalante Rd.

.dvl

ino S

ay

10

D A V I S

Rd.

Pantano R

M O N T H A N

Cam

Ajo W

Irvington Rd.

Irvington Rd.

o Bn

A F B

i

d.

86

K

Drexel Rd.

erde R

Kolb

ve.

ve.

Flagstaff

Palo V

Valencia Rd.

Valencia Rd.

ARIZONA

d.

12th A

6th A

13

Phoenix

Tucson

Los Reales Rd.

14

ission R

19

Tucson

M

International

10

Airport

0

2 mi

SAN XAVIER

INDIAN RESERVATION

To Nogales

0

2 km

383

Visitor Information

The Metropolitan Tucson Convention & Visitors Bureau (MTCVB), 100

S. Church Ave. ( 800/638-8350 or 520/624-1817; www.visittucson.org), is

open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday from 9am

to 4pm. You’ll find it just off Broadway Boulevard adjacent to the Tucson Conven-

tion Center.

City Layout

MAIN ARTERIES & STREETS Tucson is laid out on a grid that’s fairly regular in

the downtown areas but becomes less orderly the farther you go from the

city center. In the flatlands, major thoroughfares are spaced at 1-mile inter-

vals, with smaller streets filling in the squares created by the major roads. In

the foothills, where Tucson’s most recent growth has occurred, the grid sys-

tem breaks down completely because of the hilly terrain.

The main east-west roads are (from south to north) 22nd Street,

9

Broadway Boulevard, Speedway Boulevard, Grant Road (with Tanque Verde

Rd. as an extension), and Ina Road/Skyline Drive/Sunrise Road. The main

north-south roads are (from west to east) Miracle Mile/Oracle Road,

Stone/Sixth Avenue, Campbell Avenue, Country Club Road, Alvernon Road,

and Swan Road. I-10 cuts diagonally across the Tucson metropolitan area

from northwest to southeast.

In downtown Tucson, Congress Street and Broadway Boulevard are

Orientation

the main east-west streets; Stone Avenue, Sixth Avenue, and Fourth Avenue

are the main north-south streets.

FINDING AN ADDRESS The zero (or starting) point for all Tucson addresses is

the corner of Stone Avenue, which runs north and south, and Congress

UCSON

Street, which runs east and west. From this point, streets are designated

T

either north, south, east, or west. Addresses usually, but not always, increase

by 100 with each block, so an address of 4321 E. Broadway Blvd. should be

43 blocks east of Stone Avenue. In the downtown area, many of the streets

and avenues are numbered, with numbered streets running east and west,

and numbered avenues running north and south.

STREET MAPS Pick up a free map at the visitor center at the airport or at the

MTCVB (see “Visitor Information,” above). The maps handed out by car-

rental agencies are not very detailed but will do for some purposes. Local

gas stations and convenience stores also sell detailed maps.

Neighborhoods in Brief

DOWNTOWN This is Tucson’s main business district, and has little to offer visi-

tors who aren’t in town for an event at the Tucson Convention Center,

which dominates much of downtown. There are a few art galleries and a

couple of good restaurants in the area, but for the most part, downtown is a

9-to-5 business district.

EL PRESIDIO HISTORIC DISTRICT Named for the Spanish military garrison that

once stood here, this neighborhood is bounded by Alameda Street on the

south, Main Avenue on the west, Franklin Street on the north, and Church

Avenue on the east. El Presidio was the city’s most affluent neighborhood in

the 1880s, and most of the large homes from that period have been restored.

The Tucson Museum of Art anchors the neighborhood.

384

Mexican-style adobe houses in the Barrio

Tucson is home to the University of Arizona.

Histórico District.

BARRIO HISTÓRICO DISTRICT Another 19th-century neighborhood, the Barrio

9

Histórico is bounded on the north by Cushing Street, on the west by railroad

T

tracks, on the south by 18th Street, and on the east by Stone Avenue. The

UCSON

Barrio Histórico is characterized by Sonoran-style adobe row houses that

directly abut the street with no yards, a style typical in Mexican towns. A few

restaurants dot the neighborhood. This remains a borderline neighborhood

where restoration is an ongoing process, so try to avoid it late at night.

Orientation

FOURTH AVENUE Running from University Boulevard in the north to Ninth

Street in the south, Fourth Avenue is the favored shopping district of cash-

strapped college students. Shops specialize primarily in ethnic and used/

vintage clothing, as well as handcrafted items from around the world. Twice

a year, in March or April and December, the street is closed to traffic for a

street fair. Plenty of restaurants, bars, and clubs also make this the city’s

favorite college nightlife district.

UNIVERSITY DISTRICT/MIDTOWN Northeast of downtown Tucson, this part of

the city is actually a collection of different neighborhoods surrounding the

University of Arizona. Just to the west of the university campus, you’ll find the

sort of shops and restaurants you’d expect adjacent to a university. On the east

side, you’ll find neighborhoods that are home to the historic Arizona Inn and a

few other hotels. Stretching north from the university is Campbell Avenue,

which has the city’s greatest concentrations of interesting budget restaurants.

EAST TUCSON This part of the city includes pretty much everything east of the

University District all the way to the eastern unit of Saguaro National Park.

Within east Tucson you’ll find lots of hotels, plenty of good restaurants, and

both the national park and Sabino Canyon Recreation Area. Be prepared to

spend quite a bit of time in your car as you drive this sprawling section of

the city.

WEST TUCSON This sprawling area of town is where you’ll find some of the

city’s top attractions, including the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum, Old

Tucson Studios, and the west unit of Saguaro National Park. However, there

aren’t very many places to stay in this area, nor are there very many recom-

mendable restaurants.

385

ORO VALLEY & MARANA These two cities northwest of Tucson are vast sub-

urbs where all the city’s recent development has taken place. It is in this

area that you’ll find the posh Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain resort and a few

good restaurants. The views of the west slopes of the Santa Catalina Moun-

tains from this area are stupendous, and there’s access to the mountains at

Catalina State Park.

THE FOOTHILLS This huge area in northern Tucson houses the city’s most afflu-

ent neighborhoods. Elegant shopping plazas, modern malls, world-class

resorts, golf courses, and expensive residential neighborhoods are sur-

rounded by hilly desert at the foot of the Santa Catalina Mountains.

GETTING AROUND

By Car

Unless you plan to stay by the pool or on the golf course, you’ll want to rent a car.

9 Luckily, both rates and taxes/surcharges are a little lower than in Phoenix. At

press time, a high-season compact-car rental in Tucson was running between

$150 and $250 per week ($200 to $310 with taxes and surcharges included). See

“Getting Around,” in chapter 12, for general tips on car rentals in Arizona.

The following agencies have offices at or near Tucson International Airport

ound

as well as other locations in the area. Because taxes and surcharges add up to

around 30% on car rentals at the airport, you may want to consider renting at

some other location, where you can avoid paying some of these fees. Among the

Tucson car-rental agencies are Alamo ( 877/222-9075 or 520/573-4740; www.

Getting Ar alamo.com), Avis ( 800/331-1212 or 520/294-1494; www.avis.com), Budget ( 800/527-0700 or 520/889-8800; www.budget.com), Dollar ( 800/800-3665

or 866/434-2226; www.dollar.com), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331 or 520/573-

5250; www.enterprise.com), Hertz ( 800/654-3131 or 520/573-5201; www.

UCSON

hertz.com), National ( 877/222-9058 or 520/573-8050; www.nationalcar.

T

com), and Thrifty ( 800/847-4389 or 877/283-0898; www.thrifty.com).

Downtown Tucson is still a relatively easy place to find a parking space, and

parking fees are low. There are two huge parking lots on the south side of the

Tucson Convention Center, a couple of small lots on either side of the Tucson

Museum of Art (one at Main Ave. and Paseo Redondo, south of El Presidio His-

toric District, and one at the corner of Council St. and Court Ave.), and parking

garages beneath the main library (101 N. Stone Ave.) and El Presidio Park (on

Alameda St.). You’ll find plenty of metered parking on the smaller downtown

streets. Almost all Tucson hotels and resorts provide free parking.

Lanes on several major avenues in Tucson change direction at rush hour to

facilitate traffic flow, so pay attention to signs that tell you the time and direction of traffic.

By Public Transportation

Covering much of the Tucson metropolitan area, Sun Tran ( 520/792-9222;

www.suntran.com) public buses are $1.50 for adults and students, 50¢ for seniors,

and free for children 5 and under. Day passes are available on buses for $3.50.

Downtown Tucson’s Ronstadt Transit Center, 215 E. Congress St., is

served by about 30 regular and express bus routes to all parts of Tucson. The bus

system does not extend to such tourist attractions as the Arizona–Sonora Desert 386

Museum, Old Tucson, Saguaro National Park, or the foothills resorts, and thus is

of limited use to visitors.

By Taxi

If you need a taxi, you’ll have to phone for one. Discount Cab ( 520/388-

9000; www.discountcab.com) provides service throughout the city. The flag-drop rate is $2.95, and after that it’s $2.10 per mile. Although distances in Tucson are

not as great as those in Phoenix, it’s still a good 10 or more miles from the foothills resorts to downtown Tucson, so expect to pay at least $15 to $20 for a taxi. Most

resorts have shuttle vans or can arrange taxi service to major attractions.

On Foot

Downtown Tucson is compact and easily explored on foot, and many old streets

in the downtown historic neighborhoods are narrow and much easier to appreci-

ate if you’re walking. Also, although several major attractions—including the Ari-

zona–Sonora Desert Museum, Old Tucson Studios, Saguaro National Park, and

Sabino Canyon—can be reached only by car, they require quite a bit of walking 9

once you arrive. These attractions often have uneven footing, so be sure to bring

T

a good pair of walking shoes.

UCSON

TUCSON

Fast Facts: T

ATMs/Banks In addi-

www.tmcaz.com). The Uni-

1 ounce costs $1.05¢ (85¢

tion to ATMs at banks, you

versity Medical Center is

to Canada or Mexico); a

can also find ATMs at many

at 1501 N. Campbell Ave.

first-class postcard costs the

ucson

gas station minimarts,

( 520/694-0111; www.

same as a letter. There’s a

although these machines

umcarizona.org).

post office in downtown

usually charge a slightly

Emergencies For fire,

Tucson at 141 S. Sixth Ave.

higher fee than banks.

police, or medical emergen-

( 800/275-8777 or 520/

Banks are generally open

cies, phone 911.

903-1958; www.usps.com);

Monday through Friday

it’s open Monday through

from 9am to 5pm (some

Internet Access Inter-

Friday from 9am to 5pm.

also Sat 9am–noon).

net access is free at down-

town’s Joel D. Valdez Main

Newspapers & Maga-

Dentist Call the Arizona

Library, 101 N. Stone Ave.

zines The

Arizona Daily

Dental Association ( 800/

( 520/594-5500; www.

Star is Tucson’s morning

866-2732; www.azda.org)

library.pima.gov/locations/

daily. The Tucson Weekly is

for a referral.

main). Also, try cafes and

the city’s news-and-arts

Doctors & Hospitals

FedEx Office locations

journal, published on

For a doctor referral, ask

around the city.

Thursday.

at your hotel, or call the

Mail & Postage At

Pharmacies Contact

Northwest Medical Center

press time, domestic post-

Walgreens ( 800/925-

( 866/694-9355; www.

age rates were 32¢ for a

4733; www.walgreens.com)

northwestmedicalcenter.

postcard and 45¢ for a

for the Walgreens pharmacy

com). The Tucson Medical

letter. For international mail, that’s nearest you; some are

Center is at 5301 E. Grant

a first-class letter of up to

open 24 hours a day.

Rd. ( 520/327-5461;

387

Safety Tucson is surpris-

Just to the south of down-

When driving, be aware

ingly safe for a city of its

town lies a poorer section

that many streets in the

size. However, downtown

of the city that’s best

Tucson area are subject to

isn’t all that lively after dark

avoided after dark unless

flooding when it rains. Heed

and attracts a lot of street

you are certain of where

warnings about possible

people and panhandlers.

you’re going. Take the same flooded areas and don’t try

Be particularly alert if

precautions you would in

to cross a low area that has

you’re down here for a

any other city.

become flooded.

performance of some sort.

EXPLORING TUCSON

Go west, young man (and woman). That’s what you’ll need to do if you’re visiting

Tucson and want to immerse yourself in the desert Southwest or the cinematic

Wild West. Out past the western outskirts of Tucson, you’ll find not only the west

9 unit of Saguaro National Park (with the biggest and best stands of saguaro cac-

tus), but also the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum (one of the nation’s top zoo-

logical parks) and Old Tucson Studios (film site over the years for hundreds of

Westerns). Put these three attractions together for one long day of getting to

know Tucson, and you have the city’s best family outing.

ucson

Downtown

Arizona Historical Society Downtown History Museum MUSEUM If

you want to learn more about the history of Tucson, this is the museum to visit.

Exploring T Exhibits cover Spanish presidio days, American army days, merchants, and schools. One of the most curious exhibits focuses on the gangster John Dillinger,

who was arrested here in Tucson.

140 N. Stone Ave. www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org. 520/770-1473. Admission $3 adults, $2

UCSON

seniors and students ages 12–18, free for children 11 and under; free on 1st Fri of each month.

T

Tues–Fri 10am–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: All downtown-bound buses.

Museum of Contemporary Art ART MUSEUM This downtown

museum, housed in a former fire station, is not very large, but it mounts some of

Rattlesnake Crossing

Generally speaking, rattlesnakes should

you pass. The bridge is best accessed

not be crossed, but there is one Tucson

from the south end of the Fourth Avenue

rattler that should not be avoided. I am

shopping district. Just walk east on E.

referring here to the city’s unusual Dia-

Ninth Street, turn right on N. Third Ave-

mondback Bridge, a snake-shaped

nue, and then follow the bike path

pedestrian bridge that spans E. Broad-

through Iron Horse Park. You can also

way Boulevard just east of downtown

visit this local landmark on a Segway

Tucson. From the north end, you enter

personal-transporter tour with Roll With

through the giant viper’s open mouth. At

It! Segway Guided Tours ( 520/749-

the south end of the bridge, a giant

5325; www.tucsonrollwithit.com), which

rattle is raised in the air, and if you’re

charges $70 for its 21⁄4-hour tours of the

lucky you just might hear it buzzing as

neighborhood.

388

the most interesting and challenging art exhibits in Tucson. If you have an appre-

ciation of contemporary art, you should be sure to visit. The little gift shop here

is full of interesting items.

265 S. Church Ave. www.moca-tucson.org. 520/624-5019. Admission $8 adults, free for children 16 and under; free on first Sun of each month. Wed–Sun noon–5pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: All downtown-bound buses.

Presidio San Agustin del Tucson HISTORIC SITE This reconstruction

of part of the Spanish fort that was the birthplace of Tucson is the best place to

start a tour of downtown or to learn about the early history of this city. The presidio (fort) is built of adobe blocks, and within the walls and in an adjacent adobe

building, you’ll find displays on the early history of Tucson. Most months between

fall and spring, there is a living-history event here one Saturday per month.

133 W. Washington St. http://cms3.tucsonaz.gov/parksandrec/el-presidio. 520/791-4873.

Free admission. Wed–Sun 9am–4:30pm. Bus: All downtown-bound buses.

Southern Arizona Transportation Museum MUSEUM Housed in a

building adjacent to the former Southern Pacific Railroad Depot, this little 9

museum is worth a visit as much for the opportunity to wander around the depot

T

grounds as to see the museum’s exhibits, which focus on the history of the rail-

UCSON

road in southern Arizona. On the grounds are an old steam engine (open to the

public Sat 10am–1pm) and a statue of Doc Holliday and Wyatt Earp.

414 N. Toole Ave. www.tucsonhistoricdepot.org. 520/623-2223. Free admission. Tues–Thurs 11am–3pm; Fri–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 11am–3pm. Bus: All downtown-bound buses.

Exploring T

Tucson Museum of Art & Historic

Block MUSEUM/HISTORIC SITE

This museum complex includes galler-

ies housed in historic adobe homes, a

ucson

courtyard frequently used to display

sculptures, and a large modern building

that often mounts the most interesting

exhibits in town. The Palice Pavilion—

Art of the Americas exhibit, which

consists of a large collection of pre-

Columbian art that represents 3,000

years of life in Mexico and Central and

South America, is a highlight of the

museum. The noteworthy Goodman

Pavilion of Western Art comprises an

extensive collection that depicts cow-

boys, horses, and the wide-open spaces

of the American West.

The museum has preserved a

The Palice Pavilion—Art of the Americas

total of five historic homes on this

exhibit at the Tucson Museum of Art.

same block, and all are open to the

public. These restored homes date

from 1850 to 1907. A map and brochures are available at the museum’s front

desk, and October through April, guided tours of the historic block and Corbett

House are available (free with museum admission).

389

Sil

CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST

v

Cortaro Farms Rd.

er

Arizona Historical Society

d. be

To Phoenix

d.

Tucson Attractions

ll R

Magee Rd.

To Biosphere 2

Downtown Museum 5

d

ade R

.

Tohono Chul

Arizona History Museum 23

10

.

W

r

12 Park

Arizona State Museum 24

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

lvd.

a D

Ina Rd.

Sabino

d

Arizona-Sonora Desert

a

K

Canyon

Museum 1

Thornydale R

na

ol

Recreation

b R

Center for Creative

Orange Grove Rd.

a C

Area

Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

L

13

d

Photography 21

.

Sabino Canyon Rd.

14

Children's Museum Tucson 7

hola B

Sunset Rd.

Sunrise Dr.

De Grazia Gallery

SAGUARO

La C

.

K

d.

in the Sun 13

NATIONAL

.

d

d

o

R

lb R

El Tiradito 9

PARK

Ruthrauff

. River Rd.

t Rf

El Camino de Cerro

n R

o

Fort Lowell Museum 17

Rd.

.

d

r

a

Snyder Rd.

d

c

d

s R

w

y

n

Gadsden-Pacific Division

l Wetmore Rd.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

S

a

.

r

oy

11

o R

l

r

e

C

na

Toy Train Operating

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger Rd

. .

15

C

Museum 11

m

g W

ve.

e

o

n

v

R

i

A

Golf n' Stuff 19

este

w Prince Rd.

River

ol

.

.

Rd.

F

d

e

R

v

The International Wildlife

16

de O

Ft. Lowell Rd.

Museum 10

o

Miracle Mile

.

17 Ft. Lowell

n

.

Bear

i

l A

Park

Jewish Community Center

m

l

dv

d

y

a

e

l

a

18

C

b

Sculpture Garden 15

Ironwood H

19

ill Dr.

Grant Rd.

d

p

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

e

i

To Mount

The Mini-Time Machine –

l

l

m

c

c

a

b R

Lemmon

a

u

u

A Museum of

10

r

E

C

n B

l

n W

To Saguaro National Park (West)

O

Stone A

os

o

10

20

c

n

Miniatures 16

Speedway Blvd.

G

22 21

u

r

Speedway Blvd.

Tucson Mountain

r

T

y Crt

ev

Mission San Xavier

1

Rd.

a

23 24 25

n

l

To Saguaro National

n

6th St. u

A

Park

Park (East) &

del Bac 29

ass

d

o

5th St.

Anklam Rd.

e A

C

26

.

Colossal Cave

Museum of Contemporary

2

Gates P

Broadway Blvd.

.

d

Mountain Park

Congress Historic

d

t R

d.

d.

Art 8

f

ve

Districts

Reid

n R

o

Old Tucson Studios 2

.

a

rc

ot R

Park 27

w

y

Pima Air & Space

Sentinel

22nd St.

S

ar

ilm

Kolb R

22nd St.

210

C

W

Museum 30

Historic Districts Silverlake Rd.

Peak

N. Stone Ave.

N. 6th Ave.

Park

Tucson

Presidio San Agustin

W. 6th St.

N. Main Ave.

E. 6th St.

Greyhound

N. 4th Ave.

36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

del Tucson 4

EL PRESIDIO

Park

E. 7th St.

HISTORIC

d.

Reid Park Zoo 27

Franklin

DISTRICT

Sabino Canyon Recreation

Bopp R

Church

E. 8th St.

Toole Ave.

Ave.

N. 1st Ave.

eco

St.

d.

4

Ajo Way

Escalante Rd.

.

Area 14

E. 9th St.

d

3

v

5

l

ino S

Southern Arizona

Alameda St.

ay

10

D A V I S

Rd.

Pantano R

.

Pennington St.

6

E. 10th St.

e

28

M O N T H A N

Transportation Museum 6

v

Cam

Congress St.

A

Ajo W

Irvington Rd.

Irvington Rd.

Broadway Blvd.

o B

Steward Observatory Mirro

n

A F B

i

d.

86

E. 12th St.

K

Lab 25

S. Stone Ave.

Tucson

Armory Park

Tohono Chul Park 12

Convention

7

d.

Drexel Rd.

E. 13th St.

erde R

8

Kolb

Granada Center

Trail Dust Town 18

ve.

ve.

E. 14th St.

Cushing St.

Tucson Botanical Gardens 26

Palo V

30

10

S. Main Ave.9

Valencia

ARMORY PARK Rd.

Valencia Rd.

Tucson Museum of Art &

HISTORIC DISTRICT

ission R

Simpson St.

Kennedy St.

S. 3rd Ave.

M

Historic Block 3

E. 16th St.

12th A

6th A

BARRIO HISTORICO

19

Flagstaff

Tucson Rodeo Parade

W. 17th St.

S. 4th Ave.

E. 17th St.

Los Reales Rd.

ARIZONA

Museum 28

10

W. 18th St.

UA Science Flandrau 20

S. 6th Ave. E. 18th St.

29

Tucson

Phoenix

OsborneAve.

W.

Tucson

E. 19th

The University of Arizona

St.

0

1/2 mi 19th St.

International

Museum of Art 22

W.

Airport

E. 20th St.

20th St.

0

0.5 km

SAN XAVIER

0

2 mi

INDIAN

To Nogales

RESERVATION

0

2 km

390

Sil

CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST

v

Cortaro Farms Rd.

er

Arizona Historical Society

d. be

To Phoenix

d.

Tucson Attractions

ll R

Magee Rd.

To Biosphere 2

Downtown Museum 5

d

ade R

.

Tohono Chul

Arizona History Museum 23

10

.

W

r

12 Park

Arizona State Museum 24

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

lvd.

a D

Ina Rd.

Sabino

d

Arizona-Sonora Desert

a

K

Canyon

Museum 1

Thornydale R

na

ol

Recreation

b R

Center for Creative

Orange Grove Rd.

a C

Area

Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

L

13

d

Photography 21

.

Sabino Canyon Rd.

14

Children's Museum Tucson 7

hola B

Sunset Rd.

Sunrise Dr.

De Grazia Gallery

SAGUARO

La C

.

K

d.

in the Sun 13

NATIONAL

.

d

d

o

R

lb R

El Tiradito 9

PARK

Ruthrauff

. River Rd.

t Rf

El Camino de Cerro

n R

o

Fort Lowell Museum 17

Rd.

.

d

r

a

Snyder Rd.

d

c

d

s R

w

y

n

Gadsden-Pacific Division

l Wetmore Rd.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

S

a

.

r

oy

11

o R

l

r

e

C

na

Toy Train Operating

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger Rd

. .

15

C

Museum 11

m

g W

ve.

e

o

n

v

R

i

A

Golf n' Stuff 19

este

w Prince Rd.

River

ol

.

.

Rd.

F

d

e

R

v

The International Wildlife

16

de O

Ft. Lowell Rd.

Museum 10

o

Miracle Mile

.

17 Ft. Lowell

n

.

Bear

i

l A

Park

Jewish Community Center

m

l

dv

d

y

a

e

l

a

18

C

b

Sculpture Garden 15

Ironwood H

19

ill Dr.

Grant Rd.

d

p

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

e

i

To Mount

The Mini-Time Machine –

l

l

m

c

c

a

b R

Lemmon

a

u

u

A Museum of

10

r

E

C

n B

l

n W

To Saguaro National Park (West)

O

Stone A

os

o

10

20

c

n

Miniatures 16

Speedway Blvd.

G

22 21

u

r

Speedway Blvd.

Tucson Mountain

r

T

y Crt

ev

Mission San Xavier

1

Rd.

a

23 24 25

n

l

To Saguaro National

n

6th St. u

A

Park

Park (East) &

del Bac 29

ass

d

o

5th St.

Anklam Rd.

e A

C

26

.

Colossal Cave

Museum of Contemporary

2

Gates P

Broadway Blvd.

.

d

Mountain Park

Congress Historic

d

t R

d.

d.

Art 8

f

ve

Districts

Reid

n R

o

Old Tucson Studios 2

.

a

rc

ot R

Park 27

w

y

Pima Air & Space

Sentinel

22nd St.

S

ar

ilm

Kolb R

22nd St.

210

C

W

Museum 30

Historic Districts Silverlake Rd.

Peak

N. Stone Ave.

N. 6th Ave.

Park

Tucson

Presidio San Agustin

W. 6th St.

N. Main Ave.

E. 6th St.

Greyhound

N. 4th Ave.

36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

del Tucson 4

EL PRESIDIO

Park

E. 7th St.

HISTORIC

d.

Reid Park Zoo 27

Franklin

DISTRICT

Sabino Canyon Recreation

Bopp R

Church

E. 8th St.

Toole Ave.

Ave.

N. 1st Ave.

eco

St.

d.

4

Ajo Way

Escalante Rd.

.

Area 14

E. 9th St.

d

3

v

5

l

ino S

Southern Arizona

Alameda St.

ay

10

D A V I S

Rd.

Pantano R

.

Pennington St.

6

E. 10th St.

e

28

M O N T H A N

Transportation Museum 6

v

Cam

Congress St.

A

Ajo W

Irvington Rd.

Irvington Rd.

Broadway Blvd.

o B

Steward Observatory Mirro

n

A F B

i

d.

86

E. 12th St.

K

Lab 25

S. Stone Ave.

Tucson

Armory Park

Tohono Chul Park 12

Convention

7

d.

Drexel Rd.

E. 13th St.

erde R

8

Kolb

Granada Center

Trail Dust Town 18

ve.

ve.

E. 14th St.

Cushing St.

Tucson Botanical Gardens 26

Palo V

30

10

S. Main Ave.9

Valencia

ARMORY PARK Rd.

Valencia Rd.

Tucson Museum of Art &

HISTORIC DISTRICT

ission R

Simpson St.

Kennedy St.

S. 3rd Ave.

M

Historic Block 3

E. 16th St.

12th A

6th A

BARRIO HISTORICO

19

Flagstaff

Tucson Rodeo Parade

W. 17th St.

S. 4th Ave.

E. 17th St.

Los Reales Rd.

ARIZONA

Museum 28

10

W. 18th St.

UA Science Flandrau 20

S. 6th Ave. E. 18th St.

29

Tucson

Phoenix

OsborneAve.

W.

Tucson

E. 19th

The University of Arizona

St.

0

1/2 mi 19th St.

International

Museum of Art 22

W.

Airport

E. 20th St.

20th St.

0

0.5 km

SAN XAVIER

0

2 mi

INDIAN

To Nogales

RESERVATION

0

2 km

391

Passport to Tucson

The Tucson Attractions Passport is a

and gets you two-for-one admissions to

great way to save money on admissions

the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum, Old

to many of the city’s top attractions. The

Tucson Studios, the Arizona History

passport, available at the downtown

Museum, Biosphere 2, the Pima Air &

Visitors Center, 100 S. Church Ave.

Space Museum, Tohono Chul Park, the

( 800/638-8350 or 520/624-1817;

Tucson Museum of Art, and many other

www.tucsonpassport.com), costs $18

attractions.

140 N. Main Ave. www.tucsonmuseumofart.org. 520/624-2333. Admission $8 adults, $6

seniors, $3 students, free for children 12 and under; free on 1st Sun of each month. Tues–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun noon–6pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas. Bus: All downtown-bound buses.

9 WALKING TOUR: DOWNTOWN HISTORIC

DISTRICTS

START:

Arizona Historical Society Downtown Museum.

FINISH:

Hotel Congress.

TIME:

5 hours.

BEST TIMES:

Weekends, when restaurants aren’t packed at lunch.

WORST TIMES: Summer, when it’s just too hot to do any walking.

Tucson has a long and varied cultural history, which is most easily seen on a walk-

ing tour of the downtown historic neighborhoods. Start your explorations in El

Presidio Historic District, which is named for the Presidio of San Augustín del

Downtown Historic Districts Tucson, the Spanish garrison founded in 1775 and built to protect the San Xavier del Bac Mission from the Apaches.

After finding a parking space at the large public lot at the corner of Court Avenue and UCSONT

Council Street, walk 1 block east on Council Street to Church Avenue and 1 block south to the corner of Washington Street, where you’ll find a reconstruction of part of the: 1 Tucson Presidio

This reconstruction of part of the Spanish fort that was the birthplace of

Tucson is built of adobe blocks. Inside the walls and in an adjacent adobe

building, you’ll find displays on the early history of Tucson.

From the presidio building, walk 1 block south on Church Avenue and 1 block east on

Alameda Street to Stone Avenue. Cross Stone, turn right, and walk half a block to the: 2 Arizona Historical Society Downtown Museum

This museum, at 140 N. Stone Ave., is housed in the Wells Fargo bank

building and is the perfect introduction to the history of Tucson. Spend an

hour or so here getting acquainted with the city’s past, and you’ll get much

more out of the rest of this walking tour.

From the museum, head west 2 blocks on Alameda Street, turn right on Court Avenue,

and continue north for a block to Tucson’s premier crafts market:

392

ay

S. 3rd Ave.

St.

0.2 mi

E. 9th St.

E. Broadw

Blvd.

15th

N. 4th Ave.

E.

S. 4th Ave.

200 meters

hereh 25 24

E. 8th St.

S. 5th Ave.

finis

E. 13th St.

PARK

E. 7th St.

E. 14th St.

0

0

St. s

HISTORIC DISTRICT

N. 6th Ave.

se

23

Armory Park

r

S. 6th Av

E. 10th St.

e.

g

ARMORY

no

E. 12th St.

22

Toole Ave.

C .

Scott Ave.

E

E. 6th St.

20

. .

.

d t

.

v

t

t

l

.

S. Stone Ave.

t

B

l S

S

2

n S

o

a S

ar

n

N. Stone Ave.

y

s

o

21

r

o

here

a

k

h

o

s

c

c

C

p

a J O

mi

start

S

Kennedy St.

St.

Broadw

Church Ave.

l

15

.

i

.

.

Pennington St.

ISTORIC

1

t

t

o

t

16

S

Cushing St. S. Meyer Ave.

c

H DISTRICT

n

S

Theatre

u

17

EL PRESIDIO

s

o

n S

14

s

o t 3

e

R

Court Ave.

C

r

g

n

g

S. Main Ave.

13

i

5

Presidi

n

h 6 4

El Park

o

18

T

s

19

a

9

C

a

Music Hall

Meyer Ave.

8

.

TUCSON

CENTE

d

W. 6th St.

W 7

e

W

10

. e v

CONVENTION

o

m

A

d

a

l

N. Main Ave.

n

A Ave.

O

11

o

a

DISTRIC

12

d

d

e

a n a

HISTORICO

Franklin St.

Granada

R

r

o

G

e

BARRI

s a P

Exit 258

10

Downtown

Exit 257A

10

Historic Districts

Exit 258

r e v i R z u r C a t n a S

e

e

de

e

a

Hous

Art

Art

Center

Society

Hous

of

and

Museum

e

e

e

e

é

Cathedral

s

Museum

Courthous

e

Mansion

Caf

Park/Plaz

Village

Music

Presidio

Historical

Artisans

Cordova

Museum

Hous

Hous

Hous

Convention

Library

Gallery

Arizona

n

a

a

n

Hous

of

Hous

Kruttschnidt

Club

County

n

Congres

Town

h

s

Armas

Augustine

Downtown

Cas

Charro

Placita

El

Presidio las

Tiradito

Transportation

Julius

Steinfeld

Owl’

El

Pima

La

Tucso

Sosa-Carillo-Frémont

El

Temple

St.

Carnegie

Etherton

Hotel

Southern

1 Tucso

2 Arizon

3 Old

4 La

5 Tucso

6 Romero

7 Corbett

8 Stevens

9 Fis

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

393

3 Old Town Artisans

This adobe building, at 201 N. Court Ave., dates from 1862 and has numer-

ous rooms full of interesting (and occasionally tacky) Southwestern crafts

(see “Shopping,” later in this chapter, for details). The central courtyard has

shady gardens. You could spend hours browsing through the assortment of

crafts here, but keep in mind you’ve still got a long walk ahead of you.

Across Meyer Avenue from this building’s southwest corner is:

4 La Casa Cordova

This building, at 175 N. Meyer Ave., dates from about 1848 and is one of

the oldest in Tucson. Although the art museum owns five historic homes on

this block, this is the only one that has been restored to look as it might have

in the late 1800s. Each year from November to March, this building exhib-

its a very elaborate nacimiento, a Mexican folk-art nativity scene, with

images from the Bible and Latin American history rolled into one miniature

9

landscape full of angels, greenery, and Christmas lights.

Through a colorful gate just to the south of La Casa Cordova is the entrance to the: 5 Tucson Museum of Art

This museum houses collections of pre-Columbian and Western art, as well

as exhibits of contemporary works. A visit will not only allow you to see

plenty of art, but also provide a glimpse inside a couple of historic homes

that now serve as museum galleries.

After touring the museum, walk back up Meyer Avenue; at the end of the block, you

will find the:

6 Romero House

Downtown Historic Districts

This 1868 house may incorporate part of the original presidio wall, but it has

been extensively altered over the years. At one time it even served as a gas

station. The Romero House now contains the Tucson Museum of Art School.

From the Romero House, turn left onto Washington Street and then left again onto

UCSONT

Main Avenue. The first building you’ll come to on this side of the art museum’s historic block is the:

7 Corbett House

This restored mission-revival-style building, at 180 N. Main Ave., was built

in 1907. The house, which is set back behind a green lawn, is strikingly dif-

ferent from the older, Sonoran-style adobe homes on this block. October

through April, on Tuesdays at 11am, the Tucson Museum of Art offers a

guided tour of the Corbett House.

Next door to this home is the:

8 Stevens House

Located at 150 N. Main Ave., this is a Sonoran-style row house completed

in 1866. It currently houses the museum’s collection of pre-Columbian,

Spanish colonial, and Latin American folk art, as well as a cafe, and is

entered through the art museum’s courtyard.

394

Next door is the:

9 Fish House

This house, at 120 N. Main Ave., was built in 1867 on the site of old Mexi-

can barracks. Named for Edward Nye Fish, a local merchant, it now houses

the museum’s Western-art collection. Some of the walls of this house are 2

feet thick, and ceilings in some places are made from old packing crates.

From here, head back up Main Avenue; on your right at the far end of the next block, you’ll reach the:

10 Julius Kruttschnidt House

This house, at 297 N. Main Ave., dates from 1886 and houses a bed-and-

breakfast inn. Victorian trappings, including a long veranda, disguise the

adobe origins of this unique and beautifully restored home.

Across Main Avenue from the B&B is the:

11 Steinfeld House

9

This house, at 300 N. Main Ave., was built in 1900 in California mission-

T

revival style and was designed by Henry Trost, Tucson’s most noted archi-

UCSON

tect. It served as the original Owl’s Club, a gentlemen’s club for some of

Tucson’s most eligible bachelors of the time.

Another block north on Main Avenue stands the:

Downtown Historic Districts

12 Owl’s Club Mansion

This impressive mansion, at 378 N. Main Ave., was built in 1902 and

designed by Henry Trost in the mission-revival style, albeit with a great deal

of ornamentation. It replaced the Steinfeld House as home to the bachelors

of the Owl’s Club.

13 El Charro Café

Continue north on Main Avenue to Franklin Street and walk east on Franklin to

Court Avenue. Turn right onto Court, and you will find El Charro Café (p. 419),

Tucson’s oldest Mexican restaurant. Carne seca is the house specialty.

From here, continue south on Court Avenue and cross Alameda Street to reach:

14 El Presidio Park/Plaza de las Armas

This was once the parade ground for the presidio and is now a shady gather-

ing spot for everyone from downtown office workers to the homeless. Here

on the plaza, you’ll see a life-size bronze statue of a presidio soldier, as well

as a statue commemorating the Mormon Battalion’s visit to Tucson in 1846.

Just to the east of the park is the very impressive:

15 Pima County Courthouse

Built in 1928, this courthouse, at 115 N. Church Ave., incorporates Moor-

ish, Spanish, and Southwestern architectural features, including a colorful

tiled dome. A portion of the original presidio wall is in a glass case inside the

building.

395

From the courthouse, continue south 2 blocks (across two pedestrian bridges) to the

colorfully painted:

16 La Placita Village

This complex of offices and restaurants, at 110 S. Church Ave., was designed

to resemble a Mexican village. It houses Tucson’s visitor center and also

incorporates the Samaniego House, a Sonoran-style row house that dates

from the 1880s.

Adjacent to La Placita Village is the:

17 Tucson Convention Center

This sprawling complex includes a grand ballroom, concert hall, theater, pavil-

ions, meeting halls, gardens, and some interesting sculptures and fountains.

Near the fountains in the center of the convention center complex is the historic:

9 18 Sosa-Carillo-Frémont House

This adobe structure, located at 151 S. Granada Ave., was built in the 1850s

and later served as the home of territorial governor John C. Frémont. The

restored building is furnished in the style of the period and has in the past

been open to the public. However, at press time, it was closed for budgetary

reasons.

Continue south through the grounds of the convention center complex,

and you will come to Cushing Street, across which lies the Barrio Histórico

District. With its 150 adobe row houses, this is the largest collection of

19th-century Sonoran-style adobe buildings in the United States. In the

early 1970s, the entire neighborhood was almost razed in the name of urban

renewal and highway construction. About half of downtown Tucson, includ-

ing the neighborhoods that once stood on the site of today’s convention

Downtown Historic Districts

center, was razed before the voices for preservation and restoration were

finally heard. In fact, if it had not been for the activism of the residents of

the Barrio Histórico, I-10 would now run right through much of this area.

Start your exploration of the northern (and more restored) blocks of the Barrio

UCSONT

Histórico neighborhood by crossing Cushing Street and then turning down Main Ave-

nue, where you will find, on the west side of the street on the first block:

19 El Tiradito

El Tiradito (the Castaway) is the only shrine in the United States dedicated

to a sinner buried in unconsecrated soil, and people still light candles here

in hopes of having their wishes come true.

Wander a while through the Barrio Histórico District, admiring the

Sonoran-style homes that are built right out to the street. Many of these

homes sport colorfully painted facades, signs of the ongoing renovation of

this neighborhood.

From the corner of Cushing Street and South Meyer Avenue, walk 3 blocks east and

turn left on South Scott Avenue, where you’ll find the:

20 Temple of Music and Art

This building, located at 330 S. Scott Ave., was built in 1927 as a movie and

stage theater and is the home of the Arizona Theatre Company (p. 439).

Don’t miss the little art gallery on the second floor.

396

From here, walk north on Scott Avenue, turn left on McCormick Street/13th Street,

and then turn right onto Stone Avenue, which will bring you to:

21 St. Augustine Cathedral

The cathedral was built in 1896 and was modeled after the Cathedral of Queré-

taro, Mexico. Above the door, you’ll see a statue of Saint Augustine as well as

symbols of the Arizona desert—the horned toad, the saguaro, and the yucca.

From here, walk east on Corral Street, turn left on Scott Avenue, and then turn right on 12th Street and right again on Sixth Avenue to reach the front of the old:

22 Carnegie Library

The library dates from 1901 and was designed by celebrated Tucson archi-

tect Henry Trost. The building now houses the Children’s Museum Tucson

(see “Especially for Kids,” later).

Now head north on Sixth Avenue. In 1 block, you’ll pass the:

23 Etherton Gallery

9

This second-floor gallery (p. 433), upstairs from local celebrity chef Janos

T

Wilder’s popular Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails restaurant, has long been

UCSON

one of Tucson’s top contemporary-art galleries.

Continue 1 more block north and turn right on Congress Street. In 1 block, you will see on the far side of the street the:

Exploring T

24 Hotel Congress

This hotel, located at 311 E. Congress St., was built as a railroad hotel in

1919 and once hosted John Dillinger, infamous public enemy number one.

Today, the restored budget lodging (p. 449) is popular with European travel-

ucson

ers and students, and has a classic Western-style lobby. There’s an excellent

little cafe here, and the lobby is well worth a stroll-through.

Walk out the back door of the Hotel Congress and cross the street to the:

25 Southern Arizona Transportation Museum

This small museum, at 414 N. Toole Ave., is on the grounds of the historic

1941 Southern Pacific Railroad Depot. Outside is an old steam locomotive,

and inside are exhibits on the early days of railroads in southern Arizona. On

the depot grounds, keep an eye out for the statue of Wyatt Earp and Doc

Holliday.

Central Tucson

Arizona History Museum MUSEUM As the state’s oldest historical

museum, this repository of all things Arizonan is a treasure-trove for the history

buff, and includes a full-scale reproduction of an underground mine tunnel.

You’ll also see an assayer’s office, miner’s tent, stamp mill, and blacksmith’s shop in the mining exhibit. A transportation exhibit displays stagecoaches and the

horseless carriages that revolutionized life in the Southwest, while a range of

temporary exhibits give a pretty good idea of what it was like back then.

949 E. 2nd St. www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org. 520/628-5774. Admission $5 adults, $4

seniors and students ages 12–18, free for children 11 and under; free for all 1st Sat of each month. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 1, 4, 5, or 6.

397

Arizona State Museum MUSEUM

This museum houses one of the state’s

most interesting exhibits on prehistoric

and contemporary Native American cul-

tures of the Southwest. The exhibit

focuses on 10 different tribes, not only

displaying a wide range of artifacts, but

also exploring the lifestyles and cultural

traditions of Indians living in the region

today. In addition, the museum show-

cases a collection of some 20,000

ceramic pieces. This pottery spans 2,000

years of life in the desert Southwest.

University of Arizona campus, 1013 E. Univer-

sity Blvd. at Park Ave. www.statemuseum.

arizona.edu. 520/621-6302. Admission $5

9 adults, free for children 17 and under. Mon–

Sat 10am–5pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 1,

4, 5, or 6.

The pottery at the Arizona State Museum

Center for Creative Photogra- spans 2,000 years.

ucson

phy ART MUSEUM Originally con-

ceived by Ansel Adams, this museum now holds more than 80,000 master prints

by more than 2,000 of the world’s best photographers. The center mounts fasci-

nating exhibits year-round and is also a research facility that preserves the photo-

Exploring T graphic archives of more than 50 photographers, including Adams. The main gallery is open on a regular basis, but you must make an appointment to view

images from the archives.

University of Arizona campus, 1030 N. Olive Rd. (east of Park Ave. and Speedway Blvd.). www.

UCSON

creativephotography.org.

520/621-7968. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun

T

1–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 1, 4, 5, or 6.

Reid Park Zoo ZOO It’s small, but the Reid Park Zoo makes a fun in-town

destination if you have the kids along. The zoo has good Africa, Asia, and South

America enclosures that include African and Asian elephants, white rhinoceroses,

giraffes, anteaters, and capybaras (the largest rodents in the world). Get here early, when the animals are more active. There’s a good playground in the adjacent park.

Mirror, Mirror in the Hall

The mountaintops of southern Arizona

that has made mirrors for telescopes all

are dotted with astronomical observato-

over the world—some more than 25 feet

ries, and one thing many of these have in

in diameter. The mirrors are cast and

common is that they use massive glass

polished inside a facility under the UA

mirrors to reflect the light of distant

football stadium. Monday through Friday

stars. At the University of Arizona’s

at 1 and 3pm, there are 90-minute tours

Steward Observatory Mirror Lab

of the mirror lab ($15 adults; $8 children

( 520/626-8792; http://mirrorlab.

and students 8–22). Reservations are

as.arizona.edu), you can tour a facility

required.

398

Art in the Open Air

1100 S. Randolph Way (at 22nd St. btw.

Country Club Rd. and Alvernon Way).

Although it isn’t very big, the Jewish Com-

www.tucsonzoo.org.

520/791-4022.

munity Center Sculpture Garden, 3800 E.

Admission $7 adults, $5 seniors, $3

River Rd. ( 520/299-3000; www.tucsonjcc.

children 2–14. Sept–May daily 9am–4pm;

org/arts/sculpture-garden), manages to

June–Aug 8am–3pm. Closed Thanksgi-

exhibit some excellent sculptures and is well

ving and Christmas. Bus: 7.

worth wandering through. Because it is just

off the Rillito River Park path, you can com-

Tucson Botanical Gardens

bine a visit to the sculpture park with a walk

PARK/GARDEN Set amid resi-

or bike ride along the dry river bed. You’ll

dential neighborhoods in midtown

find the community center at the north end

Tucson, this little oasis of greenery

of North Dodge Boulevard.

is well worth a visit if you’re inter-

ested in desert plant life, land-

scaping, or gardening. On the

51⁄2-acre grounds, there are a dozen different gardens that not only have visual

appeal, but also are educational. You can learn about creating a garden for birds

or for butterflies, and then see what sort of crops the Native Americans of this 9

region have traditionally grown. A sensory garden stimulates all five senses. A toy

T

train layout and a tropical butterfly house (open fall through spring; additional

UCSON

charge) make this a surprisingly good place to bring the kids.

2150 N. Alvernon Way. www.tucsonbotanical.org. 520/326-9686. Admission $8 adults, $4

children 4–12. Daily 8:30am–4:30pm. Closed New Year’s Day, July 4th, Thanksgiving, and Dec 24–25. Bus: 9 or 11.

Exploring T

UA Science Flandrau MUSEUM/PLANETARIUM Located on the

University of Arizona campus, Flandrau is the most convenient place in Arizona

to do a little stargazing through a professional telescope. On clear nights, astronomers train the science center’s 16-inch telescope on whatever objects in the

ucson

night sky are most interesting. You might get a close-up look at the craters of the

moon or the rings of Saturn. The science center also has the most impressive

mineral collection in the state, with an emphasis on Arizona minerals. There are

also exhibits focusing on Mars and asteroids. In the planetarium, there are laser-

light shows ($7.50 adults, $5 children) Thursday through Saturday evenings and

sometimes Sunday afternoons.

University of Arizona campus, 1601 E. University Blvd., at Cherry Ave. www.flandrau.org.

520/621-7827. $7.50 adults, $5 children 4–15, free for children 3 and under; telescope viewing free. Mon–Wed 10am–3pm; Thurs–Fri 10am–3pm and 6–9pm; Sat 10am–9pm; Sun

1–4pm. Telescope viewing (weather permitting) Wed–Sat 7–10pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 15, or 20.

The University of Arizona Museum of Art

ART MUSEUM With

European and American works dating from the Renaissance up to the 20th cen-

tury, the art collections at this museum are even more extensive and diverse than

those of the Tucson Museum of Art. Tintoretto, Rembrandt, Picasso, O’Keeffe,

Warhol, and Rothko are all represented. Another attraction, the Retablo of Ciu-

dad Rodrigo, consists of 26 paintings from 15th-century Spain that were originally placed above a cathedral altar. The museum also has an extensive collection

of 20th-century sculpture that includes more than 60 clay and plaster models

and sketches by Jacques Lipchitz.

399

University of Arizona campus, 1031 N. Olive Rd. (at Park Ave. and Speedway Blvd.). www.art museum.arizona.edu. 520/621-7567. Admission $5 adults, free for students and children.

Tues–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun noon–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 1, 4, 5, or 6.

The Foothills

De Grazia Gallery in the Sun ART MUSEUM Southwestern artist Ettore

“Ted” De Grazia was a Tucson favorite son, and his home, a sprawling, funky

adobe building in the foothills, is a city landmark and now serves as a museum

for this prolific artist. De Grazia is said to be the most reproduced artist in the

world because many of his images of big-eyed children were used as greeting

cards during the 1950s and 1960s. Today De Grazia’s images may seem trite and

maudlin, but in his day he was a very successful artist. The gift shop has lots of

reproductions and other objects with De Grazia images.

6300 N. Swan Rd. www.degrazia.org. 800/545-2185 or 520/299-9191. Free admission. Daily 10am–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

9 Sabino Canyon Recreation Area NATURAL ATTRACTION At the

base of the Santa Catalina Mountains on the northeastern edge of the city,

Sabino Canyon, with its impressive desert scenery, hiking trails, and stream, is a

fabulous place to commune with the desert. The chance to splash in the canyon’s

waterfalls and swim in natural pools (water conditions permitting) attracts many

ucson

visitors. There are numerous picnic tables in the canyon, and many miles of hik-

ing trails, making it one of the best places in the city for a day hike.

A narrated tram shuttles visitors up and down the lower canyon throughout

the day, and between April and November (but not July or Aug), there are moon-

Exploring T light tram rides three times each month (usually the nights before the full moon).

The Bear Canyon tram is used by hikers heading to the picturesque Seven Falls,

which are at the end of a 2.5-mile trail and are my favorite destination within this recreation area.

UCSON

Another good way to experience the park is by bicycling up the paved road

T

during the limited hours when bikes are allowed: Sunday through Tuesday,

Thursday, and Friday before 9am and after 5pm. This is a strenuous uphill ride

for most of the way, but the scenery is beautiful.

5900 N. Sabino Canyon Rd. www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado or www.sabinocanyon.com. 520/749-8700, 749-2861 for shuttle information, or 749-2327 for moonlight shuttle reservations. Parking Driving the Catalina Highway

Within a span of only 25 miles, the Cata-

are particularly popular with rock climb-

lina Highway climbs roughly 1 mile in

ers. There are numerous hiking trails,

elevation from the lowland desert land-

picnic areas, and campgrounds along the

scape of cacti and ocotillo bushes to

route, although be aware that at some,

forests of ponderosa pines. Passing

you will need to have a parking pass ($5).

through several different life zones, this

For more information, contact the Coro-

route is the equivalent of driving from

nado National Forest Santa Catalina

Mexico to Canada. Along the way, there

Ranger District, 5700 N. Sabino Canyon

are numerous overlooks, some of which

Rd. ( 520/749-8700; www.fs.fed.us/r3/

are nauseatingly vertiginous. Other spots

coronado).

400

9

T

Sabino Canyon Recreation Area.

The Tohono Chul Park blooms with wildflow-

UCSON

ers in spring.

$5. Sabino Canyon tram ride $8 adults, $4 children 3–12; Bear Canyon tram ride $3 adults, $1

children 3–12. Park daily dawn–dusk. Sabino Canyon tram rides daily 9am–4:30pm (July to mid-Exploring T

Dec Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat–Sun and holidays 9am–4:30pm). Bear Canyon tram rides daily 9am–

4:30pm. Take Grant Rd. east to Tanque Verde Rd., continuing east; at Sabino Canyon Rd., turn north and watch for the sign.

Tohono Chul Park PARK/GARDEN Although this park covers fewer than

ucson

50 acres, it provides an excellent introduction to the plant and animal life of the

desert. You’ll see a forest of cholla cacti as well as a garden of small pincushion

cacti. From mid-February to April, the wildflower displays here are gorgeous (if

enough rain has fallen in the previous months). The park also includes an ethno-

botanical garden; a garden for children that encourages them to touch, listen,

and smell; a demonstration garden; natural areas; an exhibit house for art dis-

plays; a tearoom that’s great for breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea; and two very

good gift shops. Park docents lead guided tours throughout the day.

7366 N. Paseo del Norte (off Ina Rd. west of the intersection with Oracle Rd.). www.tohonochul park.org. 520/742-6455. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors, $4 students, $2 children ages 5–12.

Grounds and tea room Sept–June daily 8am–5pm, July–Aug 7am–3pm. Exhibit house Sept–

June daily 9am–5pm, July–Aug daily 8am–3pm. Buildings closed New Year’s Day, July 4th, Thanksgiving, and Christmas (free admission to grounds on these days).

East Tucson

Fort Lowell Museum HISTORIC SITE/MUSEUM Located in Fort Lowell

Park, this museum is on the site of a cavalry outpost that was in operation

between 1873 and 1891. The museum chronicles the history of life at the fort,

and some of the ruins of the original fort can still be seen. Before it was a fort,

this site was a Hohokam village, and artifacts uncovered from archaeological digs

are also on display. Renowned medical researcher Walter Reed, who discovered

401

how yellow fever is transmitted, served as base surgeon here in 1876. A display

focusing on medical facilities at the fort explains that, despite Hollywood’s ver-

sion of history, illness, not injury from Indian attacks, was the biggest medical

problem during the wars with the Apaches.

2900 N. Craycroft Rd. www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org. 520/885-3832. Admission $3 adults, $2 seniors and students ages 12–18, free for children 11 and under; free for all 1st Sat of each month. Fri–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 34.

The Mini-Time Machine—A Museum of Miniatures MUSEUM This

private museum is filled with more than 200 miniature houses, including a

rococo palace, an old English pub, and a Craftsman bungalow patterned after

Pasadena’s famous Gamble house, which was designed by architects Charles and

Henry Greene. There are miniature houses from all over the world, including a

Mexican cantina and Thai spirit houses. One wing of the museum is devoted to

haunted and enchanted houses that are full of witches and fairies. Keep an eye

out for the miniature violin-maker’s studio inside an actual violin.

9 4455 E. Camp Lowell Dr. www.theminitimemachine.org. 520/881-0606. Admission $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 children 4–17. Tues–Sat 9am–4pm. Closed major holidays. Bus: 34.

West Tucson

ucson

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

ZOO Don’t be fooled by the

name. This is a zoo, and it’s one of the best in the country. Exhibits here encom-

pass the full spectrum of Sonoran Desert life—from plants and insects to fish,

reptiles, and mammals—and all are on display in very natural settings. Coyotes

and javelinas (peccaries) seem very much at home in their compounds, which are

Exploring T surrounded by fences that are nearly invisible. You’ll also see black bears and mountain lions, tarantulas and scorpions, and prairie dogs and desert bighorn

sheep. My favorite exhibit, however, is the walk-in hummingbird aviary.

The grounds here are quite extensive, so wear good walking shoes and a

UCSONT

sun hat. If you get hungry, there are two excellent dining options—the cafeteria-

style Ironwood Terraces and the more

upscale Ocotillo Café. You’ll find

this zoological park 14 miles west of

downtown.

2021 N. Kinney Rd. www.desertmuseum.org.

520/883-2702. Admission Sept–May $15

adults, $4.50 children 6–12; June–Aug $12

adults, $3 children 6–12. Oct–Feb daily

8:30am–5pm; Mar–May daily 7:30am–5pm;

June–Aug Sun–Fri 7am–4:30pm, Sat 7am–

10pm; Sept 7am–4:30pm. From downtown

Tucson, go west on Speedway Blvd., which The hummingbird aviary at the Arizona–

becomes Gates Pass Rd., and follow the signs.

Sonora Desert Museum.

The International Wildlife Museum MUSEUM This castlelike building

(modeled after a French Foreign Legion fort), located on the road that leads to

the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum, is a natural-history museum filled with

stuffed animals in lifelike poses and surroundings. Animals from all over the

world are displayed, and there are exhibits of extinct animals, including the Irish

elk and the woolly mammoth. Among the more lifelike displays are the

402

Seeing It All from “A Mountain”

The best way to get a feel for the geogra-

name from the giant whitewashed letter

phy and topography of the Tucson area is

A (for University of Arizona) near the

to drive to the top of a mountain—but

summit. To get here, drive west to the

not just any mountain. “A Mountain”

end of Congress Street and turn left on

(officially called Sentinel Peak) rises just to

Sentinel Peak Road. The park is open

the west of downtown Tucson on the far

Monday through Saturday from 8am to

side of I-10. The peak gets its common

8pm and Sunday from 8am to 6pm.

predator-and-prey exhibits. There are also fascinating exhibits of butterflies and

other unusual insects.

4800 W. Gates Pass Rd. www.thewildlifemuseum.org. 520/629-0100. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors, $3 children 4–12. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 9am–6pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take Speedway Blvd. west, continuing in the same direction when it becomes Gates Pass Blvd. The museum is 5 miles west of I-10.

9

Old Tucson Studios AMUSEMENT PARK This Western town was

TUCSON

originally built as the set for the 1939 movie Arizona. In the years since, Old Tucson has been used during the filming of John Wayne’s Rio Lobo, Rio Bravo,

and El Dorado; Clint Eastwood’s The Outlaw Josey Wales; Kirk Douglas’s Gunfight at the O.K. Corral; Paul Newman’s The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean; and, more recently, Tombstone and Geronimo.

Exploring T

Today, however, Old Tucson is more amusement park than movie set. While

it occasionally serves as a site for film, TV, and advertising productions, it has

been many years since a major feature film has been shot here. Today, Old Tuc-

son is a Wild West theme park with diverse family-oriented activities and enter-

ucson

tainment. Throughout the day, there are staged shootouts in the streets, stunt

demonstrations, a cancan musical revue, and other performances. Train, kiddie,

and horseback rides; restaurants; and gift shops round out the experience.

201 S. Kinney Rd. www.oldtucson.com. 520/883-0100. Admission $17 adults, $11 children 4–11. Daily 10am–5pm to 6pm (seasonal; contact for hours). Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 24–25, and occasional special events. Take Speedway Blvd. west, continuing in the same direction when it becomes Gates Pass Blvd., and turn left on S. Kinney Rd.

Saguaro National Park

NATIONAL PARK Saguaro cacti occur natu-

rally only here in the Sonoran Desert. Sensitive to fire and frost, and exceedingly

slow to mature, these massive, treelike cacti grow in great profusion around Tucson

but have long been threatened by both development and plant collectors. In 1933,

to protect these desert giants, the federal government set aside two large tracts of land as a saguaro preserve, which eventually became Saguaro National Park. The

two units of the park, one on the east side of the city (Rincon Mountain District)

and one on the west (Tucson Mountain District), preserve not only dense stands of

saguaros, but also the many other wild inhabitants of this part of the Sonoran Des-

ert. Both units have loop roads, nature trails, hiking trails, and picnic grounds.

The west unit of the park, because of its proximity to both the Arizona–

Sonora Desert Museum and Old Tucson Studios, is the more popular area to

visit. This also happens to be where you’ll see the most impressive stands of

saguaros. Be sure to take the scenic Bajada Loop Drive, where you’ll find good

403

Sunset Spectaculars

If there are clouds off to the west in the

Alternatively, a hike to Signal Hill,

late afternoon (partly cloudy days make

located off the Bajada Loop Drive in

for the best sunsets), head to Tucson’s

Saguaro National Park’s west unit and

most popular sunset spot: Gates Pass,

only a quarter-mile walk from the parking

on the western edge of the city (take

area, will reward you with not only a

Speedway Boulevard west from down-

grand sunset vista away from the crowds

town and continue on Gates Pass Road).

at Gates Pass, but also the sight of doz-

There’s a big parking area at the pass.

ens of petroglyphs.

views and several hiking trails (the Hugh Morris Trail involves a long, steep

climb, but great views are the reward). To reach the west unit of the park, follow

Speedway Boulevard west from downtown Tucson (it becomes Gates Pass Blvd.).

9

The east section of the park contains an older area of saguaro “forest” at the

foot of the Rincon Mountains. This section is popular with hikers because most

of it has no roads. It has a visitor center, a loop scenic drive, and a trail open to mountain bikes. To reach the east unit of the park, take Speedway Boulevard

east, then head south on Freeman Road to Old Spanish Trail.

ucson

Rincon Mountain District visitor center: 3693 S. Old Spanish Trail. 520/733-5153. Tucson Mountain District visitor center: 2700 N. Kinney Rd. www.nps.gov/sagu. 520/733-5158. Entry fee $10 per car. Daily 7am–sunset; visitor centers daily 9am–5pm; open to hikers 24 hr. a day.

Visitor centers closed Christmas.

Exploring T South Tucson

Mission San Xavier del Bac

CHURCH Called the White Dove of

the Desert, Mission San Xavier del Bac, an active Roman Catholic church, is

a blindingly white adobe building that rises from a sere, brown landscape. Con-

UCSONT

sidered the finest example of mission architecture in the Southwest, the

Colorful murals cover the interior of the Mission San Xavier del Bac.

404

beautiful church was built between 1783 and 1797, and incorporates Moorish,

Byzantine, and Mexican Renaissance architectural styles. The church, however,

was never actually completed; one of the two bell towers is topped with a dome,

while the other has none.

Colorful frescos cover the interior walls, and behind the altar are elaborate

decorations. To the left of the main altar, in a glass sarcophagus, is a statue of St.

Francis Xavier, the mission’s patron saint. A visit to San Xavier’s little museum

provides a bit of historical perspective. To the east of the church, atop a small

hill, you’ll find not only an interesting view of the church, but also a replica of the famous grotto in Lourdes, France. There are often food stalls selling fry bread in

the parking lot.

1950 W. San Xavier Rd. www.sanxaviermission.org. 520/294-2624. Free admission; donations accepted. Daily 7am–5pm. Take I-19 south 9 miles to exit 92 and turn right.

Pima Air & Space Museum MUSEUM Located just south of Davis-

Monthan Air Force Base, the Pima Air & Space Museum houses one of the larg-

est collections of historic aircraft in the world. On display are more than 275

aircraft, including a mock-up of an X-15A-2 (the world’s fastest aircraft), an 9

SR-71 Blackbird, several Russian MIGs, a “Superguppy,” and a B-17G “Flying

T

Fortress.” Tours are available.

UCSON

The museum also offers guided tours of Davis-Monthan’s AMARG (Arizona

Maintenance and Regeneration Group) facility, which goes by the name of the

Boneyard. Here, thousands of mothballed military planes are lined up in neat

rows under the Arizona sun. Tours, offered Monday through Friday, last about 90

Exploring T

minutes and cost $7 for adults and $4 for children 12 and under.

6000 E. Valencia Rd. www.pimaair.org. 520/574-0462. Admission Nov–May $16 adults, $13

seniors and military, $9 children 7–12; June–Oct $14 adults, $12 seniors and military, $8 children 7–12. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take the Valencia Rd. exit from I-10

ucson

and drive east 2 miles to the museum.

Tucson Rodeo Parade Museum MUSEUM A parade must be pretty spe-

cial to warrant its own museum, and Tucson’s Fiesta de los Vaqueros Rodeo

Parade is indeed special. It’s the longest nonmotorized parade in the country and

includes all manner of horse-drawn carriages, buggies, and wagons. If you aren’t

in town for the rodeo, you can still see lots of those old horse-drawn vehicles at

this museum. Included in the collection is the original surrey with the fringe on

top that was used in the filming of Oklahoma! (which was shot in southern Arizona). There’s also a beautiful carriage that was used by Ava Gardner during the

filming of The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean. There are more than 150 vehicles on display here, as well as a wide variety of other displays focusing on the

early history of Tucson. The only drawback of this fascinating museum is that it’s

only open from early January to mid-March.

4823 S. 6th Ave. www.tucsonrodeoparade.com. 520/294-3636. Admission $10 adults, $8

seniors, $2 children 15 and under. Mon–Sat 9:30am–3:30pm (11am–1pm during rodeo week).

Closed mid-Apr to early Jan, and certain days during rodeo week (late Feb). Bus: 6, 8, 11, or 26.

Outlying Attractions

EAST OF TUCSON

Colossal Cave Mountain Park NATURAL ATTRACTION It seems

nearly every cave in the Southwest has its legends of bandits and buried loot, and

405

THE shrine THAT STOPPED A FREEWAY

The southern Arizona landscape is dotted with roadside shrines, symbols of the

region’s Hispanic and Roman Catholic heritage. Most are simple crosses decorated

with plastic flowers and dedicated to people who have been killed in auto accidents.

One shrine, however, stands out from all the rest. It is Tucson’s El Tiradito (the Castaway), which is dedicated to a sinner. Not only does this crumbling shrine attract the devout, but it once also stopped a freeway.

El Tiradito, on South Granada Ave-

nue at West Cushing Street, is the only

shrine in the United States dedicated to

a sinner buried in unconsecrated soil.

The most popular account of how this

shrine came to be tells of a young shep-

herd who fell in love with his mother-in-

9 law sometime in the 1880s. When the

father-in-law found his wife in the arms of

this young man, he shot the son-in-law.

The young shepherd stumbled from his

in-laws’ house and fell dead beside the

ucson

dusty street. Because he had been

caught in the act of adultery and died

without confessing his sins, his body

and when the federal government

could not be interred in the church cem-

announced that it would level the shrine

Exploring T etery, so he was buried where he fell. when it built a new freeway through the The people of the neighborhood

center of Tucson, the city’s citizens were

soon began burning candles on the spot

outraged. Their activities and protests

to try to save the soul of the young man,

led the shrine to be named to the

and eventually people began burning

National Register of Historic Places, and,

UCSONT

candles in hopes that their own wishes

subsequently, the freeway was moved a

would come true. They believed that if

few hundred yards to the west.

the candle burned through the night,

To this day, devout Catholics from the

their prayers would be answered. The

surrounding neighborhood still burn

shrine eventually grew into a substantial

candles at the shrine that stopped a

little structure, and in 1927 was dedi-

freeway. A visit after dark, perhaps in

cated by its owner to the city of Tucson.

conjunction with dinner next door at El

In 1940, the shrine became an official

Minuto (p. 420), a popular Mexican res-

Tucson monument.

taurant, is a somber experience that will

However, such status was not enough

easily convince you of how important this

to protect the shrine from urban renewal,

shrine is to the neighborhood.

Colossal Cave is no exception. A tour through this cavern, which is certainly

impressive, combines a bit of Western lore with a bit of geology for an experience

that both kids and adults will enjoy. Although there was much damage to the

formations here before the cave was protected, the narrow passageways and dra-

matic lighting keep the 45-minute tours interesting. For more adventurous types,

there are tours into little-visited parts of the cave. This private park also offers 406

horseback riding ($30 for a 1-hr. ride) and has a small museum and picnic areas

as well as snack bars.

16721 E. Old Spanish Trail Rd., Vail. www.colossalcave.com. 520/647-7275. Cave tours $13

adults, $6.50 children 5–12, in addition to $5 per car for park entry. Mar 16–Sept 15 daily 8am–

5pm; Sept 16–Mar 15 daily 9am–5pm. Take Old Spanish Trail southeast from east Tucson, or take I-10 and get off at the Vail exit.

NORTH OF TUCSON

Biosphere 2 ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX For 2 years, beginning in

September 1991, four men and four women were locked inside this airtight, 3-acre

greenhouse in the desert 35 miles north of Tucson near the town of Oracle. During

their tenure in Biosphere 2 (earth is considered Biosphere 1), they conducted

experiments on how the earth, basically a giant greenhouse, manages to support all

the planet’s life forms. Today there are no longer any people living in Biosphere 2, and the former research facility is operated more as a tourist attraction than as a

science center. Tours take visitors inside the giant greenhouse and into the mecha-

nisms that helped keep this sealed environment going for 2 years. The strangest 9

sight is the giant “lung” that allowed for the expansion and contraction of the air

within Biosphere 2. Although the building, which is in the middle of desert hill

TUCSON

country, is an impressive sight, the tours are something of a letdown.

32540 S. Biosphere Rd., Oracle (off Ariz. 77 at mile marker 96.5). www.b2science.org. 520/838-6200. Admission $20 adults, $18 seniors, $13 children 6–12. Daily 9am–4pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take Oracle Rd. north out of Tucson and continue north on Ariz. 77 until you see the sign.

Exploring T

SOUTH OF TUCSON

Titan Missile Museum MUSEUM If you’ve ever wondered what it would

be like to have your finger on the button of a nuclear missile, here’s your oppor-

ucson

tunity to find out. This deactivated intercontinental ballistic missile (ICBM) silo

is now a museum—and is the only museum in the country that allows visitors to

descend into a former missile silo. There’s a huge Titan missile on display, and,

even without its nuclear warhead, it is a terrifying sight. The guided tours do a

great job of explaining not only the ICBM system, but also what life was like for

the people who worked here. Operated by the Pima Air & Space Museum, this

museum is located 25 miles

south of Tucson near Green

Valley. On the first and third

Saturday of each month,

there are Beyond the Blast

Door tours, which take visi-

tors into areas not on the

normal tour. There are also

Top to Bottom Tours several

times most months and full-

moon Moonlight Madness

Tours in summer.

1580 W. Duval Mine Rd., Sahuarita

(exit 69 off I-19). www.titanmissile

museum.org.

520/625-7736.

Titan Missile Museum.

Admission $9.50 adults, $8.50

407

seniors, $6 children 7–12; Beyond the Blast Door Tour $18 adults, $16 seniors, $10 children 8–12.

Daily 8:45am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take I-19 south to Green Valley; take exit 69 west a half mile to main entrance.

Organized Tours

For a basic overview tour of Tucson’s highlights, contact Gray Line Tours Tuc-

son ( 800/276-1528 or 520/622-8811; www.graylinearizona.com), which offers a 4-hour tour of the city for $75 for adults and $38 for children. A shorter

tour focusing on downtown costs $39. Numerous other tours to various Arizona

destinations are also offered.

If you’re more interested in the history of Tucson, join a walking tour of the

Old Pueblo. Between late October and mid-April on Thursday and Friday at

10am, the Arizona Historical Society ( 520/770-1473; www.arizona

historicalsociety.org/education) offers a 2-hour tours around some of the city’s

historic districts. Tours begin at the Arizona Historical Society Downtown His-

9 tory Museum and cost $10 for adults (children 10 and under are free). You can

also check with the Metropolitan Tucson Convention & Visitors Bureau

(MTCVB), 100 S. Church Ave. ( 800/638-8350 or 520/624-1817; www.

visittucson.org), which usually has information on companies offering walking

tours of downtown Tucson.

ucson

If you’re a foodie and want someone to show you around to some of the best

restaurants in downtown Tucson, contact Tucson Food Tours ( 520/477-

7986; www.foodtourstucson.com), which offers 3-hour midday walking tours

that stop at six or more restaurants. Tours cost $44 per person.

Exploring T

With desert mountain ranges encircling the city, Tucson is a great place for

a rugged off-road adventure. To explore some rugged sections of the Sonoran

Desert, contact Black Diamond Hummer Tours ( 520/907-1061; www.

bdhummertours.com). Owner Dolores Zimmerman is a former NASCAR stock-

car racer, and she loves to show off both the desert and the capabilities of her

UCSONT

company’s Hummers.

For a look at a huge open-pit copper mine, head 15 miles south of Tucson

to the ASARCO Mineral Discovery Center, 1421 W. Pima Mine Rd., Sahua-

rita ( 520/625-8233; www.mineraldiscovery.com), where you can learn about

copper mining past and present. The center is open Tuesday through Saturday

from 9am to 5pm; admission is free. The 1-hour mine tours are offered five times

a day (call for summer days and hours). These tours cost $8 for adults, $6 for

seniors, and $5 for children 5 to 12. To get here, drive south from Tucson on I-19

and take exit 80. You might want to combine this tour with a visit to the nearby

Titan Missile Museum.

Learning Expeditions, a program run by the Arizona State Museum,

occasionally offers scholar-led archaeological tours. For information, contact the

marketing department at the museum ( 520/626-8381; www.statemuseum.

arizona.edu).

Outdoor Activities

BICYCLING

Tucson is one of the best bicycling cities in the country, and the dirt roads

and trails of the surrounding national forest and desert are perfect for mountain

biking. At Fair Wheel Bikes, 1110 E. Sixth St. ( 520/884-9018; www.

fairwheelbikes.com), bikes rent for $45 to $65 per day. Cycle Tucson

408

( 520/245-6011; www.cycletucson.com), another local bike-rental shop, will

deliver your rental bike to you and pick it up at the end of the day. Bikes here rent for $50 a day.

If you’d rather confine your pedaling to paved surfaces, there are some great

options around town. The number-one choice in town for cyclists in halfway

decent shape is the road up Sabino Canyon (p. 400). Keep in mind, however,

that bicycles are allowed on this road only 5 days a week and then only before

9am and after 5pm (the road is closed to bikes all day Wed and Sat). For a much

easier ride, try the Rillito River Park path, which is paved for 12 miles between Craycroft Road and I-10. The trail parallels River Road and the usually dry bed

of the Rillito River.

There are lots of great mountain-bike rides in the Tucson area, too. For an

easy and very scenic dirt-road loop through forests of saguaros, head to the west

unit of Saguaro National Park (p. 403) and ride the 6-mile Bajada Loop Drive.

You can turn this into a 12-mile ride (half on paved road) by starting at the Red

Hills Visitor Center.

BIRD-WATCHING

9

Southern Arizona has some of the best bird-watching in the country, and although

T

the best spots are south of Tucson, there are a few places around the city that

UCSON

birders will enjoy seeking out. Call the Tucson Audubon Society’s Rare Bird

Alert ( 520/629-0510; www.tucsonaudubon.org) to find out which birds have been spotted in the area lately.

The city’s premier birding spot is the Sweetwater Wetland, a man-made

Exploring T

wetland just west of I-10 and north of Prince Road. These wetlands were created

as part of a wastewater treatment facility and now have an extensive network of

trails that wind past numerous ponds and canals. There are several viewing plat-

forms and enough different types of wildlife habitat that the area attracts a wide

ucson

variety of bird species. To find the wetlands, take I-10 to exit 252 (Ruthrauff/El

Camino del Cerro roads), and follow the westside frontage road south to a right

onto Sweetwater Drive.

Roy P. Drachman Agua Caliente Regional Park, 12325 E. Roger Rd.

(off N. Soldier Trail), in the northeast corner of the city, is another great place to do some birding. The year-round warm springs here are a magnet for dozens of species, including waterfowl, great blue herons, black phoebes, soras, and vermilion

flycatchers. To find the park, follow Tanque Verde Road east 6 miles from the inter-

section with Sabino Canyon Road and turn left onto Soldier Trail. Watch for signs.

Other good places include Sabino Canyon Recreation Area (p. 400), the

path to the waterfall at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort (p. 451), and the

Rillito River path between Craycroft and Swan roads.

The best bird-watching in the immediate Tucson area is at Madera Can-

yon , which is in Coronado National Forest ( 520/281-2296; www.

fs.fed.us/r3/coronado), about 40 miles south of the city. Because of the year-

round water here, Madera Canyon attracts a surprising variety of bird life. Avid

birders from around the country flock to this canyon in hopes of spotting more

than a dozen species of hummingbirds and an equal number of flycatchers, war-

blers, tanagers, buntings, grosbeaks, and many rare birds not found in any other

state. However, before birding became a hot activity, this canyon was popular

with families looking to escape the heat down in Tucson, and the shady picnic

areas and trails still get a lot of use by those who don’t carry binoculars. If you’re heading out for the day, arrive early—parking is very limited. To reach Madera

409

PUBLIC & MUNICIPAL courses

There are many public courses around town. The Arizona National, 9777 E. Sabino

Greens Dr. ( 520/749-3636; www.arizonanationalgolfclub.com), is a desert-style

course that winds through stands of saguaro cacti with very distracting views of the Santa Catalinas. Greens fee is $110 in winter ($60 for twilight play). The Golf Club at Vistoso, 955 W. Vistoso Highlands Dr. ( 520/797-9900; www.vistosogolf.com), has

a championship desert course, with a greens fee of $110 in winter ($60 for twilight

play). Heritage Highlands at Dove Mountain, 4949B W. Heritage Club Blvd., Marana

( 520/579-7000; www.heritagehighlands.com), is a championship desert course at

the foot of the Tortolita Mountains; greens fee is $71 in winter.

Tucson Parks and Recreation operates

Silverbell, 3600 N. Silverbell Rd. ( 520/

five municipal golf courses, of which the

791-5235); and Fred Enke, 8251 E.

Randolph and Dell Urich, 600 S. Alver-

Irvington Rd. ( 520/791-2539). This

non Way ( 520/791-4161), are the

latter course is the city’s only desert-style

9 premier courses. The former has been

golf course. Greens fees for 18 holes at

the site of Tucson’s LPGA tournament.

these three courses are $36 to $58 in

Greens fees for 18 holes at these two

winter. For general information and tee-

courses are $56 to $80 in winter. Other

time reservations for any of the municipal

municipal courses include El Rio, 1400 W.

courses, visit www.tucsoncitygolf.com.

ucson

Speedway Blvd. ( 520/791-4229);

Exploring T Canyon, take the Continental Road/Madera Canyon exit off I-19; from the exit, it’s another 12 miles southeast. The canyon is open daily from dawn to dusk for

day use; there is a $5 day-use fee. There’s also a campground (Bog Springs

Campground; $10 per night; reservations not accepted). For information on the

canyon’s Santa Rita Lodge and Chuparosa Inn, see p. 458 and 457.

UCSONT

GOLF

Although there aren’t quite as many golf courses in Tucson as in the Phoenix

area, this is still a golfer’s town. For last-minute tee-time reservations, contact

Standby Golf ( 800/655-5345 or 480/874-3133; www.discountteetimes.

com). No fee is charged for this service.

El Conquistador Country Club With two 18-hole courses and a 9-hole

course, this club offers stunning (and very distracting) views of the Santa Cata-

lina Mountains.

10555 N. La Cañada Dr., Oro Valley. www.elconquistadorcc.com. 520/544-1801. Greens fees $59–$79.

Omni Tucson National Resort The two 18-hole courses here are famil-

iar to many golfers due to the fact that they were for many years the site of the

annual Tucson Open. While the original course here is a traditional course, the

other is a desert-style target course, which makes this a good place for an intro-

duction to desert golfing.

2727 W. Club Dr. www.tucsonnational.com. 520/575-7540. Greens fee $188 ($102 twilight rate).

410

9

The famous 3rd hole at Ventana Canyon Golf and Racquet Club.

TUCSON

Starr Pass Tucson Golf Club At the 27-hole Arnold Palmer–designed

course at this club, the fairways play up to the narrow Starr Pass, which was once

a stagecoach route.

Exploring T

3645 W. Starr Pass Blvd. www.jwmarriottstarrpass.com/arizona-golf-resort/starr-pass-4.html.

520/670-0400. Greens fee $183 ($102 for twilight play).

Ventana Canyon Golf and Racquet Club

These Tom Fazio–

designed courses offer challenging desert-style target play that is nearly legend-

ucson

ary. The 3rd hole on the Mountain Course is one of the most photographed holes

in the West. You’ll spend a bit less if you’re staying at Loews Ventana Canyon

Resort or the Lodge at Ventana Canyon.

6200 N. Clubhouse Lane. www.ventanacanyonclub.com. 800/828-5701 or 520/577-1400.

Greens fee is $139 ($99 for twilight play).

HIKING

Tucson is one of the country’s premier hiking destinations. The city is nearly sur-

rounded by mountains, most of which are protected as city and state parks,

national forest, or national park, and within these public areas are hundreds of

miles of hiking trails.

Saguaro National Park ( 520/733-5153 for the east unit or 520/733-

5158 for the west unit; www.nps.gov/sagu) flanks Tucson on both the east and

the west, with units accessible off Old Spanish Trail east of Tucson and past the

end of Speedway Boulevard west of the city. In these areas, you can observe

Sonoran Desert vegetation and wildlife, and hike among the huge saguaro cacti

for which the park is named. For saguaro-spotting, the west unit is the better

choice. See p. 403 for details.

Tucson Mountain Park, at the west end of Speedway Boulevard, is adja-

cent to Saguaro National Park and preserves a similar landscape. The parking

area at Gates Pass, on Speedway, is a favorite sunset spot.

411

Sabino Canyon (p. 400), off

Sabino Canyon Road, is one of Tucson’s

best hiking areas, but is also the city’s

most popular recreation area. A cold

mountain stream here cascades over

waterfalls and forms pools that make

great swimming holes. The 5-mile

round-trip Seven Falls Trail , which

follows Bear Canyon deep into the

mountains, is the most popular hike in

the recreation area. You can take a tram

to the trailhead or add extra miles by

hiking from the main parking lot.

With the city limits pushing right

to the boundary of the Coronado

National Forest, there are some conve-

9 nient hiking options in Tucson’s north-

ern foothills. The Ventana Canyon

Trail begins at a parking area adjacent

to the Loews Ventana Canyon Resort Hiking Pima Canyon Trail.

(off Sunrise Dr. west of Sabino Canyon

ucson

Rd.) and leads into the Ventana Canyon Wilderness. A few miles west, there’s the

Finger Rock Trail, which starts at the top of the section of Alvernon Road

accessed from Skyline Drive. Over near the Westward Look Resort is the Pima

Canyon Trail , which leads into the Ventana Canyon Wilderness and is

Exploring T reached off Ina Road just east of Oracle Road. Both of these trails provide classic desert canyon hikes of whatever length you feel like (a dam at 3 miles on the latter trail makes a good turnaround point). Just south of the Hilton Tucson El

Conquistador Golf & Tennis Resort, you’ll find the Linda Vista Trail, which UCSON

begins just off Oracle Road on Linda Vista Boulevard. This trail lies at the foot of T

Pusch Ridge and winds up through dense stands of prickly pear cactus. Higher

up on the trail, there are some large saguaros. Because this trail is shaded by

Pusch Ridge in the morning, it’s a good choice for a morning hike on a hot day.

Catalina State Park, 11570 N. Oracle Rd. ( 520/628-5798; www.

azstateparks.com/parks/cata/index.html), is on the rugged northwest face of the

Santa Catalina Mountains, between 2,500 and 3,000 feet in elevation. Hiking

trails here lead into the Pusch Ridge Wilderness; however, the park’s best day

hike is the 5.5-mile round-trip to Romero Pools, where small natural pools of water set amid the rocks are a refreshing destination on a hot day (expect plenty

of other people on a weekend). This hike involves about 1,000 feet of elevation

gain. Admission to the park is $7 per vehicle. Within the park is a Hohokam ruin.

On winter weekends there are free guided hikes here.

One of the reasons Tucson is such a livable city is the presence of the cool

(and, in winter, snow-covered) pine forests of 8,250-foot Mount Lemmon.

Within the Mount Lemmon Recreation Area, at the end of the Catalina

Highway, are many miles of trails, and the hearty hiker can even set out from

down in the lowland desert and hike up into the alpine forests (although it’s

easier to hike from the top down). For a more leisurely excursion, drive up onto

the mountain to start your hike. However, be aware that in winter, there can be

snow atop Mount Lemmon. There is a $5-per-vehicle charge to use some of the

412

sites within this recreation area, so be sure to check with the ranger station to

find out if you’ll need a pass. For more information, contact the Coronado

National Forest Santa Catalina Ranger District, 5700 N. Sabino Canyon

Rd. ( 520/749-8700; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado).

HORSEBACK RIDING

If you want to play cowboy or cowgirl, there are plenty of stables around Tucson

where you can saddle up. In addition to providing guided trail rides, some of the

stables below offer sunset rides with cookouts. Although reservations are not

always required, they’re a good idea. You can also opt to stay at a guest ranch and

do as much riding as your muscles can stand.

Pusch Ridge Stables, 13700 N. Oracle Rd. ( 520/825-1664; www.

puschridgestables.com), is adjacent to Catalina State Park and Coronado

National Forest. Rates are $40 for 1 hour, $60 for 2 hours, and $50 for a sunset

ride. Slightly more convenient are the rides offered at the Westward Look Resort,

245 E. Ina Rd., by Spanish Trail Outfitters ( 520/631-3787; www.spanish 9

trailoutfitters.com). Rates are $40 for a 1-hour ride, $50 for a 11⁄2-hour ride, $60

for a sunset ride, and $75 for a 21⁄2-hour ride.

TUCSON

HOT-AIR BALLOONING

The ballooning season in Tucson runs October to April or May. Balloon Amer-

ica ( 520/299-7744; www.balloonridesusa.com) offers flights over the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains ($349 per person). Check the website for

Exploring T

discounts. Fleur de Tucson Balloon Tours ( 520/403-8547; www.fleurde tucson.net) offers rides over the Tucson Mountains and Saguaro National Park.

Rates are $225 per person, including brunch and a champagne toast.

SKIING

ucson

Located 35 miles from Tucson (a 1-hr. drive), Mount Lemmon’s Ski Valley,

10300 Ski Run Rd. ( 520/576-1321; www.skithelemmon.com), is the south-

ernmost ski area in the United States and offers 22 runs for experienced downhill

skiers as well as beginners. The season here isn’t very reliable, so be sure to call first to make sure it’s open. Locals recommend not using your own skis or snowboard (too many exposed rocks). The ski area often opens only after a new dump

of snow, so be sure to call the road-condition information line ( 520/547-

7510) before driving up. An all-day lift pass is $37 for adults, $30 for seniors, and $20 for children. In a good year, the season runs from mid-December to April.

TENNIS

The Reffkin Tennis Center, 50 S. Alvernon Way ( 520/791-4896; www.

reffkintenniscenter.com), convenient to downtown, is the Southwest’s largest

public tennis facility and offers 25 lighted courts. During the day, court time is

$2.50 per person for 11⁄2 hours; at night, it’s $10 per court. Many of the city’s

hotels and resorts also provide courts for guest use.

WILDFLOWER VIEWING

Bloom time varies from year to year, but April and May are good times to view

native wildflowers in the Tucson area. While the crowns of white blossoms worn

by saguaro cacti are among the most visible blooms in the area, other cacti are far

more colorful. Saguaro National Park (p. 403) and Sabino Canyon (p. 400) 413

are among the best local spots to see saguaros, other cactus species, and various

wildflowers in bloom. If you feel like heading farther afield, the wildflower dis-

plays at Picacho Peak State Park (p. 97), between Tucson and Casa Grande,

are the most impressive in the state.

Spas

If you’d prefer a massage to a round of golf, you’ll want to spend a few hours at

one of Tucson’s world-class spas. Although full-service health spas can cost $400

to $500 or more per day, for under $100 you can avail yourself of a spa treatment

or two (massages, facials, seaweed wraps, salt scrubs, and the like) and maybe

even get to spend the day lounging by the pool at some exclusive resort. Spas are

also great places (for both men and women) to while away an afternoon if you

couldn’t get a tee time at that golf course you wanted to play or if it happens to

be raining.

The Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa , at the Westin La Paloma Resort

9 & Spa, 3666 E. Sunrise Dr. ( 520/742-7866; www.reddoorspas.com), focuses on skin-care services, but plenty of body wraps and massages are available as

well. With a 50-minute treatment (mostly $120–$160), you can use the spa’s

facilities for the day. However, unlike other spas in town, the Red Door is more

about relaxation than staying fit, so you won’t find aerobics classes here. Spa

ucson

packages range in price from $99 to $557.

For a variety of services and a gorgeous location, you just can’t beat Loews

Ventana Canyon’s Lakeside Spa & Fitness Center, 7000 N. Resort Dr.

( 520/529-7830; www.loewshotels.com/en/ventana-canyon-resort/spa), which

Exploring T is wedged between the rugged Santa Catalinas and the manicured fairways of one of the most fabled golf courses in the state. Soothed by the scent of aromatherapy, you can treat yourself to herbal wraps, mud treatments, massages,

facials, complete salon services, and much more. Fifty-minute treatments run

$105 to $140. With any 50-minute body treatment, you get use of the spa’s facili-

UCSONT

ties and pool and can attend any fitness classes being held that day.

With five locations around the Tucson area, Gadabout Salon Spas (www.

gadabout.com) offers the opportunity to slip a relaxing visit to a spa into a busy

schedule. Facials and massages as well as hair and nail services are available, and

body treatments and massages start at $65 for a 50-minute massage. You’ll find

Gadabout at the following locations: St. Philip’s Plaza, 1990 E. River Rd. ( 520/

577-2000); 6393 E. Grant Rd. ( 520/885-0000); 3207 E. Speedway Blvd.

( 520/325-0000); 6960 E. Sunrise Dr. ( 520/615-9700); and 8303 N.

Oracle Rd. ( 520/742-0000).

Especially for Kids

In addition to the museums listed below, two of the greatest places to take kids

in the Tucson area are the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum and Old Tucson Stu-

dios. Kids will also get a kick out of the Sabino Canyon tram ride, the Reid Park

Zoo, Flandrau Science Center & Planetarium, the Mini-Time Machine–A

Museum of Miniatures, and the Pima Air & Space Museum. All are described in

detail earlier in this chapter.

If the kids are into miniature golf, take them to Golf n’ Stuff, 6503 E.

Tanque Verde Rd. ( 520/296-2366; www.golfnstuff.com), which is right next

door to Trail Dust Town (see below). Not only are there two miniature-golf

414

All Aboard!

If you’ve got kids who idolize Thomas the

sends out little engines that think they

Tank Engine, then you’d better schedule

can. The trains chug around a variety of

your Tucson visit for the second or fourth

layouts built in different model-railroad

Sunday of the month. On those days (with

gauges. On the 2 days each month that it

a few exceptions), the Gadsden–Pacific

is open, the museum’s hours are from

Division Toy Train Operating Museum,

12:30 to 4:30pm. Admission is free. In July

3975 N. Miller Ave. ( 520/888-2222;

and August, the museum is closed.

www.gpdtoytrainmuseum.com/toytrains),

courses, but there are also bumper boats, go-karts, batting cages, laser tag, a

climbing wall, and a video-game arcade.

Breakers Water Park WATER PARK If your family vacation plans have you

visiting Tucson in the summer, keep cool at this water park. Breakers has the larg-

est wave pool in southern Arizona. There are also lots of water slides and a water-

9

play area for toddlers.

T

8555 W. Tangerine Rd., Marana. www.breakerswaterpark.com. 520/682-2304. Admission UCSON

$21 ages 12 and older, $15 children 4–11, $11 seniors. After 3pm, $13 general admission. Tues–

Sun 10am–6pm. Closed early Sept to late May.

Children’s Museum Tucson MUSEUM This museum, in the historic

Carnegie Library in downtown Tucson, is filled with fun and educational hands-

Wher

on activities. Exhibits include hands-on science and technology displays, an

enchanted rainforest, an ocean discovery center, and an electricity gallery.

e to Eat

The “Bodyology” exhibit has a wall of giant body parts including a nose, ear,

mouth, heart, and lungs. A health-and-wellness exhibit includes a play vegetable

garden and fruit orchard, as well as kid-sized grocery store and juice bar. Expect

to find such perennial kid favorites as a fire truck and a toy train. Activities are featured daily.

200 S. 6th Ave. www.tucsonchildrensmuseum.org. 520/792-9985. Admission $8 adults, $6

seniors and children 2–18. Tues–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Bus: All downtown-bound buses.

Trail Dust Town ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX This east Tucson Wild

West–themed shopping and dining center is sort of a scaled-down Old Tucson

Studios. It has a carousel, a miniature train to ride, shootout shows, a family

steakhouse, and the Museum of the Horse Soldier.

6541 E. Tanque Verde Rd. www.traildusttown.com. 520/296-4551. Trail Dust Town: free admission. Museum & train rides: $2 adults; $1 children 12 and under. Sun–Thurs 11am–5pm; Fri–Sat 11am–5pm.

WHERE TO EAT

Tucson is a city that lives for spice, and in the realm of fiery foods, Mexican

reigns supreme. There’s historical Mexican at both El Charro Café and El

Minuto Cafe, nuevo Mexican at Café Poca Cosa and J Bar, and family-style Mexican at El Minuto.

415

The Abbey Eat + Drink 21

lvd.

Hardy Rd.

CORONADO NATIONAL

Anthony’s in the Catalinas 15

University Blvd.

Downtown Tucson

Tucson Restaurants

.

FOREST

Arizona Inn – Main Dining

Co.ertaro Farmevs Rd.

v

Room 40

d.

h A

.

h A

t

t

.

Magee Rd.

e

Beyond Bread 38

10

v

. 4

ev

. 6

Blanco Tacos + Tequila 14

ade R

N

N

e A

d A

W

N

8

i

no 6th St.

lc

hola B

.r

Bluefin Seafood Bistro 11

G

. C

N

t

u

12

13

Sabino

Ina Rd.

ra

. M

Ina Rd.

o

7

a D

Ina Rd.

Blue Willow 36

n

u

. S

. E

a

N

N

La C

d

15

Canyon

a

r

a

d

11

19

i

t A

T

Brooklyn Pizza Company 8

10

a

n S

o

n

K

Recreation

o

2

l

a

10

o

A

v

e

l

14

b R

Area

v

t

e

Brushfire BBQ Co. 31

e

.

.

St.

A

.

v

Orange Grove Rd.

a C Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

.

e

E. 9th St.

L

Café à la C’Art 1

e

.

16

d

1 Alameda

v

.

5

18

Sabino Canyon Rd.

Café Poca Cosa 4

t At

4

The Cup Cafe 6

6

E. Congress St.Sunset

oc

Rd.

26

Sunrise Dr.

E. Broadway Blvd.

The Dish Bistro & Wine Bar 43

. S

17

.

20 K 21

d.

S

3

27

.

d

Downtown Kitchen +

d

o

R

lb R

. River Rd.

t Rf

Cocktails 3

n R

o

.

d

22

r

a

Snyder Rd.

El Charro Café 2, 20, 51

d

c

d

s R

28

25

w

y

n

l Wetmore Rd.

S

a

.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

r

oy

El Corral Restaurant 25

SAGUARO

To Phoenix

o R

l

r

e

C

n

23

a

El Guero Canelo 29

NATIONAL

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger .Rd.

C

m

g W

ve.

e

10

o

n

v

El Minuto Cafe 33

PARK

24

este

S

R

i

A

w

Prince Rd.

River

il

o

.

Feast 42

v

l

.

e

Rd.

e

F

dR

v

47

r

de O

b

Ft. L

A

owell Rd.

Flying V Bar & Grill 19

e

o

l

Miracle Mile

l R

35 .

Ft. Lowell

Bear

n

Frankie's South Philly

i

30

d

36 v

.

46

Park

m

l

d

ya

Cheesesteaks 37

a

9 d

29

49

To Saguaro National Park (West),

C

31

37

48

Ironwood Hill Dr.

.

Grant Rd.

d

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

Ghini’s French Café 24

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

e

i

To Mount

l

l

38 41

& Old Tucson

c

c

l

b R

Lemmon

The Grill 17

10

a

u

l

r

E

e 39 n B

ul

n W

O

Stone A

b

HiFalutin Rapid Fire Western

p

o

40

s

o

c

42 n

Tucson Mountain

r

45

Speedway Blvd.

Grill 10

34 G

See inset map

ma

u

y C

e

Speedway Blvd.

d.

Park

r

C

T

rt 43

vl

Rd.

a

6th St. n

A

Janos 18

n

u

5th St.

ass

Anklam Rd.

d

o

.

32 e A

JAX Kitchen 13

44 C

d

Gates P

Broadway Blvd.

.

Kolb R

J Bar 18

Congress

d

d.

33

50

v

To Saguaro National

Kingfisher Bar & Grill 41

e

K

n R

t Rf

51

i

.

n

Reid

a

or

ot R

Park (East)

ne

Lindy's on 4th 7

y

w

c

R

Sentinel

22nd St.

Park

S

ya

ilm

d

210

r

22nd St.

Little Anthony’s Diner 50

.

Peak

C

W

Silverlake Rd.

Lovin’ Spoonfuls 35

Park

Tucson

Greyhound

Mariscos Chihuahua 34

36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

Park

Maynard's Market & Kitchen 5

d.

McMahon’s Prime

Bopp R

eco

d.

Steakhouse 46

ay

Ajo Way

Escalante Rd.

.dv

Miguel’s 26

l

ino S

Ajo W

10

D A V I S

Rd.

Pantano R

Pastiche Modern Eatery 30

Irvington Rd.

M O N T H A N

Irvington Rd. Cam

Pat's Drive-In 32

o B

86

n

A F B

i

d.

Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse 48

K

Pizzeria Vivace 23

Drexel Rd.

erde R

Sir Veza's Taco Garage 28, 45

Kolb

d.

ve.

ve.

Tavolino Ristorante Italiano 16

Palo V

Teresa’s Mosaic Café 9

Valencia Rd.

Valencia Rd.

Tohono Chul Tea Room 12

12th A

6th A

Tucson Tamale Company 44

ission R

Vero Amore 47

Flagstaff

M

Los Reales Rd.

Vivace Restaurant 23

ARIZONA

19

Tucson

10

Wildflower 11

International

Phoenix

Yoshimatsu Healthy Japanese

Tucson

0

2 mi

Eatery 39

SAN XAVIER

Airport

To Nogales

Zinburger Wine & Burger Bar 22

0

2 km

INDIAN RESERVATION

416

The Abbey Eat + Drink 21

lvd.

Hardy Rd.

CORONADO NATIONAL

Anthony’s in the Catalinas 15

University Blvd.

Downtown Tucson

Tucson Restaurants

.

FOREST

Arizona Inn – Main Dining

Co.ertaro Farmevs Rd.

v

Room 40

d.

h A

.

h A

t

t

.

Magee Rd.

e

Beyond Bread 38

10

v

. 4

ev

. 6

Blanco Tacos + Tequila 14

ade R

N

N

e A

d A

W

N

8

i

no 6th St.

lc

hola B

.r

Bluefin Seafood Bistro 11

G

. C

N

t

u

12

13

Sabino

Ina Rd.

ra

. M

Ina Rd.

o

7

a D

Ina Rd.

Blue Willow 36

n

u

. S

. E

a

N

N

La C

d

15

Canyon

a

r

a

d

11

19

i

t A

T

Brooklyn Pizza Company 8

10

a

n S

o

n

K

Recreation

o

2

l

a

10

o

A

v

e

l

14

b R

Area

v

t

e

Brushfire BBQ Co. 31

e

.

.

St.

A

.

v

Orange Grove Rd.

a C Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

.

e

E. 9th St.

L

Café à la C’Art 1

e

.

16

d

1 Alameda

v

.

5

18

Sabino Canyon Rd.

Café Poca Cosa 4

t At

4

The Cup Cafe 6

6

E. Congress St.Sunset

oc

Rd.

26

Sunrise Dr.

E. Broadway Blvd.

The Dish Bistro & Wine Bar 43

. S

17

.

20 K 21

d.

S

3

27

.

d

Downtown Kitchen +

d

o

R

lb R

. River Rd.

t Rf

Cocktails 3

n R

o

.

d

22

r

a

Snyder Rd.

El Charro Café 2, 20, 51

d

c

d

s R

28

25

w

y

n

l Wetmore Rd.

S

a

.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

r

oy

El Corral Restaurant 25

SAGUARO

To Phoenix

o R

l

r

e

C

n

23

a

El Guero Canelo 29

NATIONAL

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger .Rd.

C

m

g W

ve.

e

10

o

n

v

El Minuto Cafe 33

PARK

24

este

S

R

i

A

w

Prince Rd.

River

il

o

.

Feast 42

v

l

.

e

Rd.

e

F

dR

v

47

r

de O

b

Ft. L

A

owell Rd.

Flying V Bar & Grill 19

e

o

l

Miracle Mile

l R

35 .

Ft. Lowell

Bear

n

Frankie's South Philly

i

30

d

36 v

.

46

Park

m

l

d

ya

Cheesesteaks 37

a

9 d

29

49

To Saguaro National Park (West),

C

31

37

48

Ironwood Hill Dr.

.

Grant Rd.

d

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

Ghini’s French Café 24

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

e

i

To Mount

l

l

38 41

& Old Tucson

c

c

l

b R

Lemmon

The Grill 17

10

a

u

l

r

E

e 39 n B

ul

n W

O

Stone A

b

HiFalutin Rapid Fire Western

p

o

40

s

o

c

42 n

Tucson Mountain

r

45

Speedway Blvd.

Grill 10

34 G

See inset map

ma

u

y C

e

Speedway Blvd.

d.

Park

r

C

T

rt 43

vl

Rd.

a

6th St. n

A

Janos 18

n

u

5th St.

ass

Anklam Rd.

d

o

.

32 e A

JAX Kitchen 13

44 C

d

Gates P

Broadway Blvd.

.

Kolb R

J Bar 18

Congress

d

d.

33

50

v

To Saguaro National

Kingfisher Bar & Grill 41

e

K

n R

t Rf

51

i

.

n

Reid

a

or

ot R

Park (East)

ne

Lindy's on 4th 7

y

w

c

R

Sentinel

22nd St.

Park

S

ya

ilm

d

210

r

22nd St.

Little Anthony’s Diner 50

.

Peak

C

W

Silverlake Rd.

Lovin’ Spoonfuls 35

Park

Tucson

Greyhound

Mariscos Chihuahua 34

36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

Park

Maynard's Market & Kitchen 5

d.

McMahon’s Prime

Bopp R

eco

d.

Steakhouse 46

ay

Ajo Way

Escalante Rd.

.dv

Miguel’s 26

l

ino S

Ajo W

10

D A V I S

Rd.

Pantano R

Pastiche Modern Eatery 30

Irvington Rd.

M O N T H A N

Irvington Rd. Cam

Pat's Drive-In 32

o B

86

n

A F B

i

d.

Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse 48

K

Pizzeria Vivace 23

Drexel Rd.

erde R

Sir Veza's Taco Garage 28, 45

Kolb

d.

ve.

ve.

Tavolino Ristorante Italiano 16

Palo V

Teresa’s Mosaic Café 9

Valencia Rd.

Valencia Rd.

Tohono Chul Tea Room 12

12th A

6th A

Tucson Tamale Company 44

ission R

Vero Amore 47

Flagstaff

M

Los Reales Rd.

Vivace Restaurant 23

ARIZONA

19

Tucson

10

Wildflower 11

International

Phoenix

Yoshimatsu Healthy Japanese

Tucson

0

2 mi

Eatery 39

SAN XAVIER

Airport

To Nogales

Zinburger Wine & Burger Bar 22

0

2 km

INDIAN RESERVATION

417

On the other hand, if Mexican leaves you cold, don’t despair—there are

plenty of other restaurants serving everything from the finest French cuisine to

innovative American, Italian, and Southwestern food. The last of these is almost

as prevalent in Tucson as Mexican food, and the cuisine can be brilliantly

creative.

Foodies fond of the latest culinary trends will find plenty of spots to satisfy

their cravings. On the other hand, if you’re on a tight dining budget, look for

early-bird dinners, which are quite popular with retirees.

Downtown & the Fourth Avenue

Neighborhood

EXPENSIVE

Maynard’s Market & Kitchen

NEW AMERICAN/FRENCH At this

restaurant in Tucson’s restored downtown train station, a railroad theme prevails

throughout, with old trolley track used for a foot rail at the bar and railroad spikes 9 turned into table lamps. The menu is heavy with well-prepared French classics

such as onion soup, steak tartare, bouillabaisse, and choucroute garnie. I know not everyone loves Mexican food as much as I do, so, if you’re more the soup-and-sandwich or pizza-and-calzone type, Maynard’s makes a great downtown

lunch option. There’s also a little market here where you can grab some gourmet-

e to Eat

to-go food. As much as possible ingredients are organic, local, or sustainably pro-

duced. The restaurant garden even includes a citrus grove.

Wher 400 N. Toole Ave. www.maynardsmarkettucson.com. 520/545-0577. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $10–$14 lunch, $15–$32 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–

10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

MODERATE

UCSONT

Café Poca Cosa

CONTEMPORARY MEXICAN The cuisine served

at this stylish downtown restaurant is the creation of owner/chef Suzana Davila

and has been compared to the dishes dreamed up in Like Water for Chocolate.

Although ostensibly Mexican, this food is not just any Mexican food; it’s imaginative and different and is served in a bold and angular space that belies the loca-

tion on the ground floor of a parking garage. Expect such creations as grilled beef

with a jalapeño chili and tomatillo sauce, and chicken with a dark mole sauce made with Kahlúa, chocolate, almonds, and chilies. The menu changes daily, but

the plato Poca Cosa, a trio of dishes chosen by the chef, is a good bet. This lively restaurant is an excellent value.

110 E. Pennington St. www.cafepocacosatucson.com. 520/622-6400. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $13–$15 lunch, $19–$26 dinner. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–

9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails MODERN AMERICAN Chef Janos

Wilder, Tucson’s most celebrated chef, got his start in downtown Tucson years

ago, and at this casual restaurant he returns to his roots, at least as far as the

location is concerned. While his original restaurant, which is now located at

the Westin La Paloma in the foothills, served a blend of French and Southwest-

ern cuisines, Downtown has an eclectic menu that draws on influences from

all over the world. Consider making a meal of several small plates such as the

flavor-packed Laotian chicken-and-papaya salad and the ahi poke, which is made

418

with a spicy ginger-soy dressing and seaweed salad. Imaginative cocktails are a

highlight.

135 S. Sixth Ave. www.downtownkitchen.com. 520/623-7700. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $10–$14 lunch, $12–$28 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–9pm or 9:30pm; Sat 4–9pm or 9:30pm; Sun 4–9pm.

El Charro Café SONORAN MEXICAN El Charro, housed in an old

stone building in El Presidio Historic District, is Tucson’s oldest family-operated

Mexican restaurant and is legendary around these parts for its unusual carne seca, a traditional air-dried beef that is a bit like shredded beef jerky. To see how they make carne seca, just glance up at the restaurant’s roof as you approach. The large metal cage up there is filled with beef drying in the desert sun. You’ll rarely find carne seca on a Mexican menu outside of Tucson, so indulge while you’re here.

The adjacent ¡Toma! (p. 442), a colorful bar/cantina, is under the same

ownership. There are other El Charro locations at 6310 E. Broadway ( 520/

745-1922), 6910 E. Sunrise Dr. ( 520/514-1922), and 7725 N. Oracle Rd., Oro Valley ( 520/229-1922).

311 N. Court Ave. www.elcharrocafe.com. 520/622-1922. Reservations recommended for 9

dinner. Main courses $7–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 10am–9pm.

TUCSON

INEXPENSIVE

Brooklyn Pizza Company PIZZA Solar-powered pizza? That’s what the sign

says, and if you look on the roof of the building housing this little pizza joint,

you’ll see dozens of photovoltaic panels. While the pizzas themselves are baked

Wher

in a gas-fired oven, everything else in the restaurant runs on the power of the sun.

Now that’s eco-friendly! There are lunch, late-night, and happy-hour specials,

e to Eat

plus house-made gelato.

534 N. 4th Ave. www.brooklynpizzacompany.com. 520/622-6868. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $6–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Café à la C’Art LIGHT FARE Located in the courtyard on the grounds of the

Tucson Museum of Art, this cafe serves up tasty sandwiches and makes a good

lunch spot if you’re downtown wandering the Presidio neighborhood or touring

the museum. Try the gingered apricot-almond chicken-salad croissant or the

Cuban sandwich, which is made with roasted pork and ham. Wash it all down

with some fresh lemonade, and be sure to save room for dessert.

150 N. Main Ave. www.cafealacarttucson.com. 520/628-8533. Reservations not accepted.

Sandwiches and salads $8.50–$11. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–3pm.

The Cup Cafe AMERICAN This downtown bistro inside the historic

Hotel Congress feels as though it once might have posed for an Edward Hopper

painting, but the floor made from thousands of pennies and the wine-bottle

chandeliers are designy enough for the most discriminating hipster. While many

Tucsonans think of the Cup primarily for its delicious desserts (which are promi-

nently displayed in revolving cases), it also does good comfort food (roast pork

chops, potato-wrapped salmon, fish and chips), but southwestern-inspired dishes

are the standout dishes here. Try the spicy seafood hushpuppies, the duck confit

tacos, or the Tucson tamales.

In Hotel Congress, 311 E. Congress St. www.hotelcongress.com. 520/798-1618. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$12 lunch, $11–$21 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7am–10pm; Fri–Sat 7am–midnight.

419

El Minuto Cafe MEXICAN El Minuto, located downtown at the edge of the

Barrio Histórico next to El Tiradito shrine, is a meeting ground for both Anglos

and Latinos who come for the lively atmosphere and Mexican home-cooking. In

business since 1936, this establishment is a neighborhood landmark. Cheese

crisps (basically Mexican pizzas) are a specialty, and the enchiladas, especially

carne seca (dried meat), are tasty. The chili con carne is another local favorite.

This is a fun place for people-watching—you’ll find all types, from kids to busi-

nessmen in suits.

354 S. Main Ave. www.elminutocafe.com. 520/882-4145. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4.50–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

Lindy’s on 4th AMERICAN If you’re a fan of the Travel Channel’s show

Man V. Food Nation, then you may remember an episode in which host Adam

Richman took on a 9-patty cheeseburger. That was the OMFG burger at Lindy’s

on 4th. Eat it in under 20-minutes, and it’s free. Take more than 20 minutes to

finish this 3-pound belly bomb, and it’ll cost you $20. Don’t worry, there are

9 plenty of other more manageable burgers at this dive burger joint on funky Fourth

Avenue.

431 N. Fourth Ave. www.lo4th.com. 520/207-6970. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $5–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon 11am–4pm; Tues–Wed 11am–10pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–2am; Sun

noon–5pm.

e to Eat

Central Tucson

Wher EXPENSIVE

Arizona Inn—Main Dining Room CONTINENTAL/AMERICAN The

dining room at the Arizona Inn, one of the state’s first resorts, is consistently

excellent. The courtyard and the bar patio overlooking the colorful, manicured

UCSON

gardens make for romantic dining spots. The menu changes regularly, but

T

includes a few classic dishes such as French onion soup and vichyssoise; most of

the menu emphasizes simple yet creative preparations such as lamb loin with

morel mushroom sauce, pan-seared salmon with tangerine beurre blanc, and

grilled pork loin with pomegranate demi-glace. Presentation is artistic, and fresh

ingredients are emphasized. The homemade ice creams are fabulous.

2200 E. Elm St. www.arizonainn.com. 520/325-1541. Reservations recommended. Main

courses $13–$24 lunch, $30–$42 dinner; tasting menu $50–$65 ($65–$85 with wine). AE, MC, V.

Daily 6:30–10:30am, 11:30am–2pm, and 5:30–10pm.

The Dish Bistro & Wine Bar

NEW AMERICAN Located inside the

RumRunner wine-and-spirits shop, this tiny, minimalist restaurant is brimming

with urban chic. On a busy night, the space could be construed as either cozy or

crowded, so if you like it more on the quiet side, come early or late. The chef has

a well-deserved reputation for artfully presented dishes that can be both creative

and comforting at the same time. Duck confit might be served with saffron-

scented potatoes and a sweet-and-sour rhubarb sauce, while pork tenderloin

might be served with ricotta gnudi (similar to gnocchi) and portabella mush-

rooms. Check for weeknight meal specials in the bar. Naturally, the wine list is

great. Despite what the address says, the Dish is right on Speedway Boulevard.

3131 E. First St. www.dishbistro.com. 520/326-1714. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$34. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

420

MODERATE

Kingfisher Bar & Grill SEAFOOD If you’re serious about seafood, King-

fisher is definitely one of your best bets for a memorable meal in Tucson. The

freshest seafood, artfully blended with bright flavors and imaginative ingredients,

is deftly prepared as appetizers, sandwiches, and main dishes. You can begin with

oysters, house-smoked trout, or ceviche—or tackle them all and call it a meal.

The warm cabbage salad is a must—delicious! The atmosphere is upscale and

lively and the bar and late-night menu are a hit with night owls. You’ll hear live

jazz and blues on Monday and Saturday nights.

2564 E. Grant Rd. www.kingfishertucson.com. 520/323-7739. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9–$17 lunch, $14–$29 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm and 5pm–midnight; Sat–Sun 5pm–midnight. Closed July 1–July 15.

Pastiche Modern Eatery NEW AMERICAN Located in a little shop-

ping plaza that has lots of Tucson character, this high-energy bistro serves such

an eclectic variety of dishes that it has long been a Tucson favorite. The colorful

artwork and vibrant contemporary food fairly shout trendy, but the restaurant 9

manages to appeal to a broad spectrum of the population. From a Southwest

burger to thyme-crusted sea bass, there’s enough here to keep everyone at the

T

table happy. Light eaters can get half-orders of many entrees. The crowded bar is

UCSON

a popular watering hole that turns out tasty margaritas. There’s also an adjacent

wine shop.

3025 N. Campbell Ave. www.pasticheme.com. 520/325-3333. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $11–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11:30am–10pm; Sat–Sun 4:30–10pm.

Wher

INEXPENSIVE

e to Eat

Beyond Bread AMERICAN/BAKERY Although ostensibly a bakery, this

place is really a bustling sandwich shop that also sells great breads and pastries.

You can even get hot breakfasts here, but in the morning, I much prefer a latte

and a selection from the pastry case. The sandwich list is long, with both hot and

cold varieties, and they all come on the great bread that’s baked on the premises.

Most of the sandwiches are so big that you could split them between two people

if you weren’t too hungry.

Other locations are on the east side of town at Monterey Village, 6260 E.

Speedway Blvd. ( 520/747-7477), and in the foothills at 421 W. Ina Rd.

( 520/461-1111).

3026 N. Campbell Ave. www.beyondbread.com. 520/322-9965. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $5–$11. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6:30am–8pm; Sat 7am–8pm; Sun 7am–6pm.

Blue Willow AMERICAN The crowds of people waiting on the front patio

for a table on weekend mornings should be a clue that this place does great

breakfasts. Better yet, they’re available all day long. The Blue Willow Special—

made with scrambled eggs, green chilies, tomatoes, chopped corn tortillas, ched-

dar cheese, salsa, and sour cream—is my favorite breakfast here, but the chorizo

scramble is another Mexican-inspired dish worth trying. The little gift shop at the

front of the restaurant has a wonderfully eclectic selection.

2616 N. Campbell Ave. www.bluewillowtucson.com. 520/327-7577. Reservations not accepted for weekend breakfast or lunch. Main courses $9–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–9pm; Sat–Sun 8am–9pm.

421

Brushfire BBQ Co. BARBECUE At this tiny barbecue joint, you pick the

size of your meal (regular or hungry), the type of sauce you want (they’ve got six

flavors), and what sides you’d like. I know these are a lot of choices to make on

an empty stomach, but once you’ve made all these difficult decisions, just sit

back and wait for some of the best barbecue in Tucson. Oh, and I almost forgot,

be sure to get an order of messy fries topped with hot sauce, cheese, and pork,

brisket, or sausage. There’s a second Brushfire at 7780 E. 22nd at Kolb Road

( 520/867-6050).

2745 N. Campbell Ave. www.brushfirebbq.com. 520/624-3223. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $7–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

El Guero Canelo MEXICAN The first time I stopped in at El Guero

Canelo for one of their famous Sonoran hot dogs, a teenage mariachi band

started playing La Bamba just as I ordered my meal. It was a Sunday afternoon, and the place was packed with local Hispanic families. The sun was shining in

through the 20-foot-tall walls of glass, and just about everything in the restaurant 9 was painted in the colors of the Mexican flag (green, white, and red). The hot

dog, wrapped in bacon and slathered with beans and salsa, was good, but it

wasn’t nearly as memorable as the restaurant scene itself. For a slice of authentic

Tucson culture, this place is not to be missed. The original El Guero Canelo is at

5201 S. 12th Ave. ( 520/295-9005), and there’s a third at 5802 E. 22nd St.

e to Eat

( 520/790-6000).

2480 N. Oracle Rd. www.elguerocanelo.com. 520/882-8977. Reservations not accepted.

Wher Main courses $2–$8. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 10am–11pm; Fri–Sat 10am–midnight.

Frankie’s South Philly Cheesesteaks LIGHT FARE Frankie Santos,

owner of this casual fast-food joint, is originally from south Philly, and to say that he is obsessive about his cheesesteak sandwiches is an understatement. The rolls

UCSON

are from Amoroso’s bakery in Philadelphia, the steaks (certified angus beef) are

T

chopped, not sliced (but that’s an entire discussion on its own), and you can get

American cheese, provolone, or, of course, Cheez Whiz. You can also get a variety

of toppings, including mushrooms, broccoli rabe, and a variety of different pep-

pers. There are even chicken cheesesteaks and veggie cheesesteaks.

2574 N. Campbell Ave. www.frankiescheesesteaks.com. 520/795-2665. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4.50–$10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm; Sun 11am–5pm.

Ghini’s French Caffe FRENCH A French cafe and breakfast spot in the

middle of Tucson? Mais oui! This casual little spot is a real gem. The owner is from Marseille and reproduces plenty of favorites from the home country. At

breakfast, there are flaky croissants, a Marseille-style omelet made with ancho-

vies, and wonderful Provençal-style fried eggs with tomatoes, garlic, and thyme.

Lunchtime brings interesting salads, sandwiches made with baguettes, and a

good range of simple pastas. Everything is available to go. On Friday nights, din-

ner is available.

1803 E. Prince Rd. www.ghiniscafe.com. 520/326-9095. Reservations not accepted. Main dishes $7–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs and Sat 6:30am–3pm; Fri 6:30am–8pm Sun

8am–2pm.

Lovin’ Spoonfuls VEGAN Chili dogs, turkey sandwiches, tuna melts, bacon

cheeseburgers. The menu at this casual little place may not sound too interesting

until you realize that not one of those dishes actually has meat in it. This is a vegan 422

restaurant, so there are no eggs or dairy products to be seen (or tasted). If you’re already a vegetarian or vegan, you may not want to eat anywhere else while you’re

in Tucson. Oh, and there are organic beers and wines to accompany your meal.

2990 N. Campbell Ave. www.lovinspoonfuls.com. 520/325-7766. Main courses $5.25–$8.25

lunch, $8–$11.25 dinner. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9:30am–9pm; Sun 10am–3pm.

Tucson Tamale Company MEXICAN Tamales, stuffed cornmeal dump-

lings steamed in corn husks, are a staple among the Southwest’s Hispanic popu-

lation, but the owners of this restaurant are taking tamales to a broader audience.

To that end, the tamales here are made without lard and sometimes include some

very nontraditional ingredients. There are vegan tamales (one with spinach and

mushrooms), as well as a Wisconsin grilled cheese tamale and even one made

with a Sonoran-style hot dog inside it. However, my favorites are the more tradi-

tional offerings made with pork loin and green chilies and beef sirloin and chipo-

tle peppers.

2545 E. Broadway. www.tucsontamalecompany.com. 520/305-4760. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $3–$6.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm; Sun 8am–3pm.

9

Yoshimatsu Healthy Japanese Eatery JAPANESE I found out about

T

this unusual place from a friend who had recently been to Japan and raved about

UCSON

this restaurant’s authenticity. However, that’s only part of the story. Not only is

there a long menu of health-conscious Japanese dishes, but the decor in this ultra-

casual place is also truly outrageous, with little glass cases displaying all manner of Japanese toys and action figures. The okonomiyaki, sort of a Japanese pizza, is one of my favorite dishes here. The green-tea milkshakes make a great dessert.

Wher

There’s a stylish little sushi bar attached to the restaurant.

e to Eat

2660 N. Campbell Ave. www.yoshimatsuaz.com. 520/320-1574. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $7.50–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm.

East Tucson

MODERATE

Feast INTERNATIONAL Subdued yet classy, Feast is a feast for the

palate. The food is creative, there are interesting cocktails, and the extensive

wine list is full of unexpected gems. The menu here changes monthly, but you

may find seared salmon filet with baby turnip ragout, pork tenderloin with house-

made kimchee, crawfish étouffée, or avocado custard with apple-basil pesto. The

restaurant will pack your gourmet meal to go and has a small selection of gourmet

cooking ingredients available as well, making it a great choice for a sunset picnic

at Sabino Canyon Recreation Area or Saguaro National Park.

3719 E. Speedway Blvd. www.eatatfeast.com. 520/326-9363 or 520/326-6500. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8.75–$23. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–9pm.

Zona 78 PIZZA I’m a sucker for good pizza, and I think the pizza here is

the best in Tucson. Maybe it’s the big stone oven they use or maybe it’s all the

locally grown organic produce, but whatever it is, this place does it right. Try the Tuscany, which is covered with Italian sausage, mozzarella, kalamata olives, fennel, roasted garlic, onions, mushrooms, and fresh basil. This pie is just bursting

with flavors. To really get the most out of a visit to Zona 78, you need to bring

enough people so that you can order the big antipasti plate.

423

There’s a second Zona 78 on the west side at 78 W. River Rd. ( 520/

888-7878).

7301 E. Tanque Verde Rd. www.zona78.com. 520/296-7878. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9.50–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Little Anthony’s Diner AMERICAN This place is primarily for kids,

although lots of big kids enjoy the 1950s music and decor. The menu includes

such offerings as a Jailhouse Rock burger and Chubby Checker triple-decker

club sandwich. Daily specials and bottomless soft drinks make feeding the family

fairly inexpensive, and a video-game room will keep your kids entertained while

you finish your milkshake. If you want to make a night of it (and you make a res-

ervation far enough in advance), you can take in an old-fashioned melodrama

next door at the Gaslight Theatre. Together, these two places make for a fun

night out with the family.

7010 E. Broadway Blvd. (in back of the Gaslight Plaza). www.littleanthonysdiner.com. 520/296-9 0456. Burgers and sandwiches $5.50–$9.50. MC, V. Mon 11am–9pm; Tues–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri 11am–11pm; Sat 7:30am–11pm; Sun 7:30am–9pm.

Vero Amore ITALIAN Everyone loves pizza, but some people are abso-

lutely fanatical about it. The owners of this cozy little east Tucson pizza place are e to Eat

solidly in the fanatics category. Vero Amore adheres to the rigid Neapolitan (Ital-

ian) pizza-making standards that require pizzas to have thin crusts and be made

Wher with Italian flour and Italian tomatoes. The pizzas also have to be baked in a very hot wood-fired oven. Put this all together and you get pizzas that are simple in

presentation yet packed with flavor. Small and casual, Vero Amore is a good lunch

choice if you find yourself on the east side of the city in the middle of the day.

There’s a second location in Marana at 12130 N. Dove Mountain Blvd., Ste.

UCSONT

104 ( 520/579-2292).

3305 N. Swan Rd., Ste. 105. www.veroamorepizza.com. 520/325-4122. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8.50–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

The Foothills

EXPENSIVE

Anthony’s in the Catalinas

NEW AMERICAN/CONTINENTAL

Housed in a modern Italianate building overlooking the city, this restaurant is as

traditional as it gets, with tuxedoed waiters, valet parking, and such classic fine-

dining dishes as escargots, French onion soup, Caesar salad prepared tableside,

chateaubriand, and filet mignon with béarnaise sauce. Such a timeless experi-

ence appeals primarily to an older foothills cigars-and-single-malt set. In such a

rarefied atmosphere, you’d expect only the finest meal and service, and that’s

exactly what you get. Wine is not just an accompaniment, but also a reason for

dining out at Anthony’s; with more than 1,700 wines, the wine list is one of the

most extensive in the city.

6440 N. Campbell Ave. www.anthonyscatalinas.com. 520/299-1771. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $30–$41. DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–9pm.

Flying V Bar & Grill SOUTHWESTERN Creative Southwestern dishes

that emphasize local ingredients, some even sourced from the local Tohono

O’odham tribe, make this restaurant at the Loews Ventana Canyon Resort a good

424

bet for anyone wanting to sample some regional flavors. While there are well-

prepared standards such as guacamole (prepared tableside), I can’t resist the

duck-confit quesadilla starter. Keep an eye out for any dish with the local tepary

beans, which come from the nearby Tohono O’odham Reservation. You might

find them made into a bisque made with Arizona olive oil or made into a cassou-

let. With lots of shareable small plates, this is a great place for grazing.

At Loews Ventana Canyon Resort, 7000 N. Resort Dr. www.loewshotels.com/en/restaurants/

flying-v-bar-grill. 520/299-2020. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$34. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs and Sun 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

The Grill

REGIONAL AMERICAN Great food, historical Southwest

character, views, live jazz—this place has it all. Located in a 1920s hacienda-style building at a former foothills guest ranch, the Grill is one of Tucson’s best restaurants. The menu changes regularly and always manages to keep up with the latest

culinary trends. For a starter, you might be able to have oysters with a brie cream

sauce or a salad made with chili-dusted ahi tuna. The New York strip steak is

deservedly the most popular entree on the menu and is big enough for two people

to share. Sunday brunch here is a real treat. The main patio overlooks the Cata-

9

linas and the fairways of the adjacent golf course. The wine list here is one of the T

best in the state.

UCSON

At the Hacienda del Sol Guest Ranch Resort, 5501 N. Hacienda del Sol Rd. www.haciendadelsol.

com. 520/529-3500. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$45; 5-course tasting menu $65 ($99 with wine); Sun brunch $35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm; Sun brunch 9:30am–2pm.

Wher

Janos

SOUTHWESTERN/REGIONAL AMERICAN Janos Wilder,

e to Eat

Tucson’s most celebrated chef, is not only a world-class chef, but a real sweet-

heart, too. Should you happen to bump into him while dining here, he’ll make

you feel as though you’ve been a regular at his restaurant for years. It is this conviviality—which spills over into all aspects of a meal here—that makes this one

of my favorite restaurants in the state, and my top choice for a special-occasion

dinner while in Tucson. The menu changes both daily and seasonally, but always

features complex dishes that seamlessly meld Southwestern flavors with classic

culinary traditions. No other restaurant in Tucson does as much to promote local

and indigenous ingredients as Janos.

At the Westin La Paloma, 3770 E. Sunrise Dr. www.janos.com. 520/615-6100. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $28–$50; multicourse tasting menus $60 ($90 with wine).

AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–9pm (May–Sept closed Mon).

McMahon’s Prime Steakhouse STEAK/SEAFOOD If a perfectly done

steak is what you’re craving, then McMahon’s is the place. This restaurant serves

some of the best steaks in Tucson, and with a decidedly modern opulence,

McMahon’s boasts an atmosphere calculated to impress (a large glass-walled

wine room dominates the main dining room). You can drop a bundle on dinner

here, but no more than you’d spend at other high-end restaurants around town.

The main difference is that your choices at McMahon’s are simpler: steak, sea-

food, or steak and seafood. You’d be wasting a night out, though, if you didn’t

order a steak. Check the website for weekly specials.

2959 N. Swan Rd. www.metrorestaurants.com. 520/327-7463. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $9–$19 lunch, $24–$44 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–10pm; Sat 5–10pm; Sun 4–8pm.

425

Miguel’s NUEVO LATINO If you’re staying at one of the foothills resorts

and just can’t get enough Mexican food, this is another good bet for upscale

south-of-the-border cuisine on the north side of the city. Be sure to start your

meal with the guacamole. The grilled pork chop with salsa verde is a favorite of

mine, but there are also flavorful steaks and lots of seafood dishes. The tequila

selection here is one of the best in Tucson, and the margaritas are delicious. If

you can, eat before the sun goes down so you can enjoy the views of the Santa

Catalinas and the city.

At La Posada, 5900 N. Oracle Rd. www.miguelstucson.com. 520/887-3777. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$27. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.

MODERATE

The Abbey Eat + Drink AMERICAN After a day of hiking at Sabino Can-

yon, this is a fun place to refuel. The decor is modern, though not so stylish that

you won’t feel comfortable in jeans, and the atmosphere is as lively as at many

bars around town. If breakfast is one of your favorite meals of the day, you should

9 be sure to try the “breakfast for dinner” entree. It’s sort of like having your cake and eating it, too. Likewise, the Abbey burger, served on an English muffin and

topped with shallot marmalade, bacon, egg, and American cheese is hard to beat.

By the way, the Abbey is affiliated with Jax Kitchen way over on the west side of

the foothills.

e to Eat

6960 E. Sunrise Dr. www.theabbeytucson.com. 520/299-3132. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $13–$23. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 10:30am–

Wher 2:30pm and 5–9pm.

Blanco Tacos + Tequila MEXICAN The retro Swedish-modern decor at

this restaurant is about as far as you can get from the usual perpetual-fiesta styl-

ing of most Mexican restaurants. However, Blanco, from the same restaurant

UCSONT

group responsible for Wildflower, another of my favorite Tucson restaurants, is

far from an average Mexican restaurant. The food here doesn’t break any new

ground, but the fish tacos are some of the best in Tucson. Dishes are made with

fresh ingredients, and even the rice and vegetables that come with meals are well

done. Service is friendly and there are great views from the deck. There’s a great

tequila list, and the bar makes some fun cocktails.

In La Encantada Center, 2905 E. Skyline Dr., Ste. 246. www.foxrc.com. 520/232-1007. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $10–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

Bluefin Seafood Bistro SEAFOOD Sure, this is the middle of the des-

ert, but there’s only so much beef you can eat on a week’s vacation. If you’ve had

enough steak to start your own ranch and are craving a nice bouillabaisse, this is

a good choice. Adopting a sort of New Orleans styling, Bluefin is a sister restau-

rant to the ever-popular and always-reliable Kingfisher in central Tucson (p. 421).

The menu is extensive; in addition to that bouillabaisse, you can get oysters

Rockefeller, a classic New England lobster roll, or cashew-crusted mahimahi.

There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights.

In Casas Adobes Plaza, 7053 N. Oracle Rd. www.bluefintucson.com. 520/531-8500. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$15 lunch, $15–$29 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–

Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

426

JAX Kitchen NEW AMERICAN Familiar comfort foods get an upscale

and slightly European flair at this fun foothills bistro. The New England chowder

might be made with scallops, while the duck confit might be served in a salad

with root vegetables and spinach, a mustard vinaigrette, and parsnip chips. How-

ever, of all the many wonderful comfort foods here, none is more comforting than

the salt-crusted roast whole chicken, which takes an hour to prepare and serves

two people. Order it as soon as you walk in. There’s a good selection of wines by

the glass, and prices tend to be reasonable.

7286 N. Oracle Rd. www.jaxkitchen.com. 520/219-1235. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$14 lunch, $14–$27 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues 5–9pm; Wed–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9pm; Sun 5–9pm.

J Bar

SOUTHWESTERN The mouthwatering culinary creations of

celebrity chef Janos Wilder at half-price? Sounds impossible, but that’s pretty

much what you’ll find at this casual bar and grill adjacent to the famed foothills

restaurant. Ask for a seat out on the heated patio, and with the lights of Tucson

twinkling in the distance, dig into the best nachos you’ll ever taste—here made

with chorizo sausage, smoked poblano peppers, chili con queso, and fresh salsa.

9

The ingredients and flavor combinations are unforgettable in such popular dishes

T

as spicy jerked pork with cranberry-habanero chutney and a burger that’s studded

UCSON

with foie gras and smoked poblano chilies. For desert, try the delicious dark-

chocolate–jalapeño sundae.

At the Westin La Paloma, 3770 E. Sunrise Dr. www.janos.com. 520/615-6100. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $13–$19. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5–9:30pm.

Wher

Tavolino Ristorante Italiano ITALIAN Big and boisterous, this Foot-

e to Eat

hills Italian restaurant is not the Italian restaurant of your youth. Forget the redand-white checked tablecloths; Tavolino Ristorante Italiano has a hip urban

trattoria personality. Start your meal with the likes of grilled octopus or grilled

eggplant that is rolled around a filling of ricotta, goat cheese, and basil. A wood-

fired oven turns out good pizzas as well as chicken and pork loin. Of course, there

are plenty of pasta dishes, including many that are made with house-made pas-

tas. For bigger appetites, there’s a classic Tuscan ribeye steak, as well as saltim-

bocca, ossobuco, and a few other hearty entrees.

2890 E. Skyline Dr. www.tavolinoristorante.com. 520/531-1913. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$16 lunch, $12–$26 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm and 5–10pm.

Vivace Restaurant

NORTHERN ITALIAN In a beautiful Tuscan-

inspired setting, this restaurant serves reasonably priced, creative Italian dishes.

The atmosphere is lively and the food down-to-earth. For starters, consider

indulging in the luscious antipasto platter for two; it has marinated vegetables,

prosciutto, roasted red peppers, grilled asparagus, and herbed goat-cheese

mousse. Pasta dishes, such as penne with sausage and red pepper–tomato sauce,

come nicely presented and in generous portions. But it’s the crab-filled chicken

breast that is most memorable. The wine list has plenty of selections.

At St. Philip’s Plaza, 4310 N. Campbell Ave. www.vivacetucson.com. 520/795-7221. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$17 lunch, $16–$33 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–

Thurs 11:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10pm.

427

Market Timing

Wildflower

NEW AMERI-

CAN Stylish comfort food in

There’s a wonderful little farmers’ market

large portions is the order of the

Saturday and Sunday mornings at the St.

day at this chic and casually ele-

Philip’s Plaza shopping center. You can pick

gant north-Tucson bistro. Interior

up organic bread, prickly pear cactus juice

decor, calculated to appeal to the

and jelly, homemade tamales, Mexican

local ladies-who-lunch crowd, is a

cheeses, and plenty of produce. Stock up

blend of boudoir and patio. The

here and then head to Sabino Canyon Recre-

heaping plate of fried calamari

ation Area for a picnic.

with mizuna greens is a good bet

for a starter, and entrees run the

gamut from a comforting cheese-

burger to braised short rib stew with green chilies and cornbread to grilled skirt

steak with farro risotto. Both pasta and salmon also show up in reliable guises.

At Casas Adobes Shopping Plaza, 7037 N. Oracle Rd. (at Ina Rd.). www.foxrc.com. 520/219-4230. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$17 lunch, $12–$26 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, 9 MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

INEXPENSIVE

HiFalutin Rapid Fire Western Grill AMERICAN Tired of highfalutin

steakhouses with highfalutin prices? Me, too. The only thing highfalutin at this

e to Eat

casual restaurant is the name, and that’s why it’s one of my favorite Tucson res-

taurants. This place has loads of Southwest character and knows how to set the

Wher mood. It also comes through with reasonably priced tasty comfort food with a

Western twist. Get anything with the marinated flank steak, and you won’t be

disappointed. You can get it tossed with pasta, in a salad, or just plain straight up.

Wash it all down with one of the great margaritas they serve, and you’ll definitely

have a highfalutin kind of meal.

UCSONT

6780 N. Oracle Rd. www.hifalutintucson.com. 520/297-0518. Reservations recommended.

Main courses $8.50–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Pizzeria Vivace PIZZA In the same shopping center that houses the

affiliated Vivace Restaurant, one of Tucson’s best Italian restaurants, you’ll find this cozy little artisan pizzeria. The menu is short, with only nine pizzas, a few salads, and a handful of other light entrees, but even with so few options, you’ll likely find yourself thinking about coming back to sample a few more dishes. The gorgonzola

and grape salad is a distinctive starter, as is the popular chicken with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, and balsamic reduction. The 12-inch pizzas are cooked in a very

hot oven and come out with a bubbly, slightly charred crust. Wines are very reason-

ably priced. All in all, if you’re looking for a reasonably priced dinner in a place with plenty of ambience, this is one of your best bets in Tucson.

In St. Philip’s Plaza, 4280 N. Campbell Ave. www.pizzeriavivace.com. 520/529-2700. Reservations accepted only for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $6.25–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–

Thurs 11am–2:30pm and 5–9pm; Fri 11am–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm.

Sir Veza’s Taco Garage MEXICAN Affiliated with Tucson’s ever-popular

El Charro restaurants, Sir Veza’s is a fun, casual Mexican joint done up to feel

like a car garage. If you love hot rods, low-riders, and all things automotive, then you’ll want to have a meal or two at Sir Veza’s. Start with the ceviche, a marinated seafood starter that’s just bursting with flavors. With almost 20 different tacos on 428

the menu, there’s no question about what to order for your main dish. The only

question is what filling to get; there’s everything from a vegan taco to a Thai taco to one made with a bacon-wrapped hot dog. There are also plenty of other more

familiar fillings for taco traditionalists. For a side, be sure to try the beer-batter tempura vegetables. There’s a second Sir Veza’s on the east side of town at 4699

Speedway Blvd. ( 520/323-8226).

220 W. Wetmore Rd. www.sirvezas.com. 520/888-8226. Reservations accepted only for large parties. Main courses $7–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9 or 10pm.

Tohono Chul Tea Room REGIONAL AMERICAN Located in a brick ter-

ritorial-style building in Tohono Chul Park (p. 401), this is one of the most tran-

quil restaurants in the city, and the garden setting provides a wonderful

opportunity to experience the desert. As often as possible, ingredients are local

and organic, and before or after lunching on posole (a Mexican stew), a seafood relleno, or a Sonoran BLT, you can wander through the park and admire the

many species of cacti. Be sure to ask for a table on the patio, which is surrounded

by gardens that attract numerous bird species.

7366 N. Paseo del Norte (1 block west of the corner of Ina and Oracle rds. in Tohono Chul Park).

9

www.tohonochulpark.org. 520/797-1222. Reservations accepted only for parties of 6 or T

more. Main courses $10–$14. AE, MC, V. Sept–June daily 8am–5pm; July–Aug daily 7am–3pm.

UCSON

Zinburger Wine & Burger Bar AMERICAN I have to admit, I was

resistant to the whole concept of this restaurant for the longest time. Burgers and

beer? Yes. Burgers and wine? Maybe, but not wine in a stemmed wine glass, not

with fingers dripping burger juices. Oh well, I haven’t dropped a glass yet, and the Wher

burgers are fabulous. The wine list is pretty good, too. Although you’re welcome

e to Eat

to bring the kids, who will be happy with the burgers, fries, and root beer floats,

this place has more the feel of a hip bar. Think burger joint for grown-ups. Oh,

and by the way, the turkey burger here is just about the best burger of any type

I’ve ever had, and it goes well with red or white wine. Cheers. There’s a second

Zinburger at 6390 E. Grant Rd. ( 520/298-2020).

In Joesler Village, 1865 E. River Rd. www.foxrc.com. 520/299-7799. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $9–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

West Tucson

MODERATE

Teresa’s Mosaic Café MEXICAN A mile or so west of I-10, this casual

Mexican restaurant, with colorful mosaic tile tables, mirror frames, and a kitchen

counter, is hidden behind a McDonald’s on the corner of Grant and Silverbell

roads but is well worth finding for breakfast or lunch. Try the legendary huevos rancheros, chilaquiles (another popular Mexican breakfast dish), or chorizo and eggs for breakfast, and don’t pass up the fresh lemonade or horchata (spiced rice milk). This is an especially good spot for a meal if you’re on your way to the Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum, Old Tucson, or Saguaro National Park’s west unit.

2455 N. Silverbell Rd. www.mosaiccafes.com. 520/624-4512. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $5–$16. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7:30am–9pm; Sun 7:30am–2pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Mariscos Chihuahua MEXICAN In the dining room of this funky little

westside Mexican joint, a life-size marlin leaps out of a wall that has been painted 429

with a mural of the open ocean. This unusual decor should give you a hint about

what they serve here—seafood, Mexican seafood. Fish, shrimp, and octopus,

prepared in numerous styles, are the specialty here. You can start with a delicious

ceviche tostada and then have spicy shrimp endiablados or a culichi-style fish filet (made with a creamy green-pepper sauce). Wash your meal down with an inexpensive margarita or a michelada, a popular Mexican drink that mixes beer and tomato juice. You’ll find Mariscos Chihuahua just south of Speedway Boulevard

west of I-10 and downtown Tucson.

1009 N. Grande Ave. www.mariscoschihuahua.com. 520/623-3563. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $9–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–9pm; Sat–Sun 9am–9pm.

Pat’s Drive-In AMERICAN In business for more than 40 years, this old-

fashioned drive-in, with its distinctive red-and-white striped paint job, is famous

in Tucson for its chili dogs. The dogs come in both mild and spicy versions and

should be accompanied by some of the great french fries. Be forewarned, these

dogs are messy. You’ll find Pat’s just south of Speedway west of I-10.

9 1202 W. Niagara St. 520/624-0891. Main dishes $1.75–$6.25. No credit cards. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Cowboy Steakhouses

El Corral Restaurant STEAK El Corral is a fun, inexpensive, and

e to Eat

atmospheric steakhouse, and good prime rib and cheap prices have made this

place hugely popular with retirees and families. The restaurant doesn’t accept

Wher reservations, so expect long lines or come before or after regular dinner hours.

Inside, the hacienda building has a genuine old-timey feeling, with flagstone

floors and wood paneling that make it dark and cozy. In keeping with the name,

there’s a traditional corral fence of mesquite branches around the restaurant

parking lot. Prime rib is the house specialty, but you can also get steaks, chicken, UCSONT

barbecued ribs, and burgers.

2201 E. River Rd. www.elcorraltucson.com. 520/299-6092. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8.75–$21. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 4:30–10pm; Sun 4:30–9pm.

Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse STEAK Located in Trail Dust Town (see

the “Especially for Kids,” earlier), a Wild West–themed shopping, dining, and

family entertainment center, the Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse specializes in family

dining in a fun cowboy atmosphere. Stroll the wooden sidewalks past the opera

house and saloon to the grand old dining rooms of the restaurant. Once through

the doors, you’ll be surprised at the authenticity of the place, which really does

resemble a dining room in old Tombstone. Be prepared for crowds—this place is

very popular with tour buses. Oh, and by the way, wear a necktie into this place,

and you’ll have it cut off! Actually, lots of people wear ties just so they can have them added to the collection tacked to the ceiling.

6541 E. Tanque Verde Rd. www.pinnaclepeaktucson.com. 520/296-0911. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8.25–$23. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5–10pm; Sat–Sun

4:30–10pm.

Bakeries, Cafes & Quick Bites

For some of the best espresso in Tucson, head to Raging Sage Coffee Roast-

ers, 2458 N. Campbell Ave. ( 520/320-5203; www.ragingsage.com); prices are high, but the espresso here sure is tasty. Cartel Coffee Lab, 2502 N.

430

Campbell Ave. ( 520/225-0437; http://cartelcoffeelab.com), just up the

street from Raging Sage, is another strong contender. If you’ve been visiting the

museums on the University of Arizona campus and need a pick-me-up, try Caffe

Luce, 943 E. University Blvd., no. 191 ( 520/207-5504; www.caffeluce.

com), which is directly across the street from the campus. There’s a second Luce

at 4205 N. Campbell Ave. ( 520/395-0266), which is in the same shopping

plaza as Trader Joe’s. Downtown, head to Sparkroot, 245 E. Congress St.

( 520/272-8949; http://sparkroot.com), for good espresso drinks. If you’re a tea person, be sure to check out Seven Cups, 2516 E. Sixth St. ( 520/881-4072; www.sevencups.com), a traditional Chinese tearoom in a hip residential neighborhood near the University of Arizona.

If you’re anywhere near the intersection of River Road and Campbell Ave-

nue, on the southern edge of the foothills and find yourself in need of a good

espresso or a quick breakfast or lunch, try Fresh, 2404 E. River Rd. ( 520/505-4470), a bright, modern spot where you can get a wrap, a salad, or a smoothie.

Don’t miss the great English muffins, which are made at a sister restaurant.

For eight-layer cakes in an edgy atmosphere, I like to stop in at the Cup 9

Cafe, at Hotel Congress, 311 E. Congress St. ( 520/798-1618; www.hotel congress.com). At La Baguette Bakery, 1797 E. Prince Rd. ( 520/322-TUCSON

6297; www.ghiniscafe.com/page.cfm/bakery), which is affiliated with Ghini’s

French Caffe (p. 422), you can get all kinds of delicious French pastries. More

French pastries and breads are to be had at Frogs Organic Bakery, 7109 N.

Oracle Rd. ( 520/520/229-2124; www.frogsorganicbakery.com), in the

Casas Adobes Plaza at the corner of Ina Road. AJ’s Fine Foods, 2805 E. Skyline Shopping

Dr. ( 520/232-6340; www.ajsfinefoods.com), a gourmet supermarket in La

Encantada shopping center at the northwest corner of Skyline Drive and Camp-

bell Avenue, is another good place to grab a pastry. If it’s a hot day, head to Frost, A Gelato Shoppe, 7131 N. Oracle Rd., Ste. 101 ( 520/797-0188; www.

frostgelato.com), a great little gelateria in the Casas Adobes shopping center.

Other Frosts can be found at 7301 E. Tanque Verde Rd. ( 520/886-0354),

which is conveniently close to Sabino Canyon, and at 2905 E. Skyline Dr., Ste.

286 ( 520/299-0315), in La Encantada shopping center.

If you need a quick lunch, head for the nearest Baggins Gourmet Sand-

wiches (www.bagginsgourmet.com) for a delicious sandwich. Baggins has

several locations, including 7233 E. Speedway Blvd. at Kolb Road ( 520/290-

9383), 1800 E. Fort Lowell Rd. at Campbell Avenue ( 520/327-1611), and downtown at 33 N. Stone Ave. at Church and Pennington streets ( 520/792-1344). Good pizza can be had at Magpies Gourmet Pizza (www.magpiespizza.

com) downtown at 605 N. Fourth Ave. ( 520/628-1661), 4654 E. Speedway

Blvd. ( 520/795-5977), 105 S. Houghton Rd. ( 520/751-9949), and 7315

N. Oracle Rd. ( 520/297-2712). Whole Foods Market is a good place to

get picnic supplies: organic fruit, delicious baked goods, cheese, meats, and

wine. Locations are at 3360 E. Speedway Blvd. ( 520/795-9844) and 7133

N. Oracle Rd. ( 520/297-5394).

SHOPPING

Although the Tucson shopping scene is overshadowed by that of Scottsdale

and Phoenix, Tucson does provide a respectable diversity of merchants. Tucso-

nans have a strong sense of their place in the Southwest, and this is reflected

431

in the city’s shopping opportuni-

ties. Southwestern clothing, food,

crafts, furniture, and art abound

(and often at reasonable prices), as

do shopping centers built in a

Southwestern architectural style.

The city’s population center

continues to move steadily north-

ward, so it is in the northern foot-

hills that you’ll find most of the

city’s large enclosed shopping

malls as well as the more tasteful

small shopping plazas full of bou-

tiques and galleries.

More than 50 shops, galleries, and restaurants

Along Fourth Avenue between make up the Fourth Avenue historic shopping and

Congress Street and Speedway entertainment district.

9 Boulevard (just north of downtown

Tucson), more than 50 shops, galleries, and restaurants make up the Fourth Ave-

nue historic shopping and entertainment district. The buildings here were

constructed in the early 1900s, and the proximity to the University of Arizona helps keep this district bustling. Many of the shops cater primarily to student needs and

interests.

Shopping

El Presidio Historic District, around the Tucson Museum of Art, is the

city’s center for crafts shops. This area is home to Old Town Artisans and the Tuc-

son Museum of Art shop. The city’s “Lost Barrio” district, on the corner of Southwest Park Avenue and 12th Street (a block off Broadway), is a good place to look for UCSON

Mexican imports and Southwestern-style home furnishings at good prices.

T

Antiques & Collectibles

Eric Firestone Gallery

Collectors of Stickley and other Arts and Crafts

furniture will not want to miss this impressive gallery, which is located in one of

the historic buildings at Joesler Village shopping plaza. In addition to the furni-

ture, there are period paintings and accessories. At Joesler Vil age, 4425 N. Campbel Ave. www.ericfirestonegal ery.com. 520/577-7711.

Morning Star Antiques In a shop that adjoins Morning Star Traders (see

“Native American Art, Crafts & Jewelry,” below), Morning Star Antiques carries

an excellent selection of antique Spanish and Mexican furniture, as well as other

unusual and rustic pieces. 2020 E. Speedway Blvd. www.morningstartraders.com.

520/881-2112.

Art

Tucson’s gallery scene is not as concentrated as that in many other cities. Galler-

ies can be found downtown as well as scattered across the foothills and other

more affluent suburbs. One art hot spot is the corner of Campbell Avenue and

Skyline Drive, where you’ll find Gallery Row, a stylishly modern Southwestern shopping plaza that has several contemporary art galleries. Behind this complex,

at 6420 N. Campbell Ave., is a small courtyard complex that is home to Sanders

Galleries ( 520/299-1763; www.sandersgalleries.com) and Settlers West Galleries ( 520/299-2607; www.settlerswest.com), both of which specialize 432

in Western art, as well as Gallery West ( 520/529-7002; www.indianart west.com), which specializes in American Indian art.

Davis Dominguez Gallery Located just a couple of blocks off Fourth Ave-

nue in downtown Tucson, this huge gallery, in business since 1976, features

some of the best and most creative contemporary art in the city. 154 E. 6th St. www.

davisdominguez.com. 866/629-9759 or 520/629-9759.

Etherton Gallery For more than 30 years, this gallery has been presenting

some of the most distinctive art to be found in Tucson, including contemporary

and historical photographs. A favorite of museums and serious collectors, Ether-

ton Gallery isn’t afraid to present work with strong themes. A smaller location is

at the Temple of Music and Art, 330 S. Scott Ave. ( 520/624-7370). 135 S. 6th Ave. www.ethertongal ery.com. 520/624-7370.

Jane Hamilton Fine Art This gallery’s boldly colored contemporary art

really stands out, and much of the artwork reflects a desert aesthetic. At Plaza

Colonial Center, 2890 E. Skyline Dr., Ste. 180. www.janehamiltonfineart.com. 520/529-4886.

9

Medicine Man Gallery/Mark Sublette

This gallery has the finest

and most tasteful traditional Western art you’ll find just about anywhere in Ari-

TUCSON

zona. Artists represented include Ed Mell, Maynard Dixon, and Howard Post,

and most of the gallery’s artists have received national attention. There’s an excellent selection of Native American crafts as well; see “Native American Art, Crafts

& Jewelry,” below, for more details. The gallery also houses a small Maynard

Dixon Museum. At Santa Fe Square, 7000 E. Tanque Verde Rd. www.medicinemangal ery.

Shopping

com. 800/422-9382 or 520/722-7798.

Metal Arts Village This eastside artists’ cooperative is a compound of

modern buildings done up to look like rusty corrugated-metal sheds. Inside these

distinctive buildings, you’ll find the studios of a dozen artists. There’s also a

sculpture garden and an espresso bar. 3230 N. Dodge Blvd. www.metalartsvil age.com.

520/975-9792.

Philabaum Glass Gallery & Studio For more than 30 years, this gallery has

been exposing Tucson to the latest trends in contemporary glass art. The gallery

is full of lovely and colorful pieces by Tucson’s own Tom Philabaum and more

than 100 other artists from around the country. 711 S. 6th Ave. www.philabaumglass.

com. 520/884-7404.

Books

You’ll find Barnes & Noble stores at 5130 E. Broadway Blvd. ( 520/512-1166), and 7325 N. La Cholla Blvd., Ste. 100, in the Foothills Mall ( 520/

742-6402).

Bookmans This big bookstore, housed in a former supermarket, is crammed

full of used books and recordings, and has long been a favorite of Tucsonans.

There are other Bookmans stores at 6230 E. Speedway Blvd. ( 520/748-

9555) and 3733 W. Ina Rd. ( 520/579-0303). 1930 E. Grant Rd. www.bookmans.

com. 520/325-5767.

Clues Unlimited If you forgot to pack your vacation reading, drop by this fun

little store. Not only can you shop for the latest Carl Hiaasen or other mystery,

but you can also say hi to Sophie and Emily, the resident potbellied pigs. 3146 E.

Fort Lowell Rd. www.cluesunlimited.com. 520/326-8533.

433

Crafts

Details Art & Design If you enjoy highly imaginative and colorful crafts with

a sense of humor, you’ll get a kick out of this place. Unexpected objets d’art turn

up in the forms of clocks, ceramics, glass, and other media. At Gal ery Row, 3001 E.

Skyline Dr., Ste. 103. www.detailsart.com. 520/577-1995.

Obsidian Gallery Contemporary crafts by nationally recognized artists fill

this downtown gallery in a space inside Tucson’s historic train station. You’ll find luminous glass art, unique and daring jewelry, imaginative ceramics, and much

more. 410 N. Toole Ave., Ste. 130. www.obsidian-gal ery.com. 520/577-3598.

Old Town Artisans Housed in a restored 1850s adobe building covering

an entire city block in El Presidio Historic District, this unique shopping plaza

houses several shops brimming with traditional and contemporary Southwestern

designs. 201 N. Court Ave. www.oldtownartisans.com. 800/782-8072 or 520/623-6024.

Skyline Gallery I’m a sucker for bright colors, and at this fine-crafts gallery,

you’ll find display cases full of gorgeous, colorful jewelry, art glass, and ceramics.

9 There are also exquisite works in wood. In Paloma Vilage Center, 6360 N. Campbel

Ave., Ste. 150. www.skylinegal erytucson.com. 520/615-3800.

Tucson Museum of Art Shop The Tucson Museum’s gift shop offers a col-

orful and changing selection of Southwestern crafts, mostly by local and regional

artists. 140 N. Main Ave. www.tucsonarts.com. 520/624-2333.

Shopping Fashion

See also the listing for the Beth Friedman Collection under “Jewelry,” below. For

cowboy and cowgirl attire, see “Western Wear,” below.

Dark Star Leather If you’re in the market for a distinctive leather jacket,

UCSONT

belt, or purse, be sure to stop by this little locally owned shop in Plaza Palomino.

Exotic leathers are used in the one-of-a-kind designs. You can sometimes find

great deals on sale items. At Plaza Palomino, 2940 N. Swan Rd., Ste. 129. www.darkstar leather.com. 520/881-4700.

Maya Palace This shop features ethnic-inspired but sophisticated women’s

clothing in natural fabrics. The friendly staff helps customers of all ages put

together a Southwestern chic look, from casual to dressy. A second shop can be

found at El Mercado, 6332 E. Broadway Blvd. ( 520/748-0817). At Casas Ado-

bes Plaza, 7057 N. Oracle Rd. www.mayapalacetucson.com. 520/575-8028.

Gifts & Souvenirs

B&B Cactus Farm This plant nursery is devoted exclusively to cacti and suc-

culents, and is worth a visit just to see the amazing variety on display. It’s a good place to stop on the way to or from Saguaro National Park East. The store can

pack your purchase for traveling or ship it anywhere in the United States. 11550 E.

Speedway Blvd. www.bandbcactus.com. 520/721-4687.

DAH Rock Shop If you can’t make it to Tucson for the annual gem and min-

eral shows, don’t despair. At this cluttered shop, you can pick through shelves

crammed with all manner of rare minerals and exotic stones. Note that this shop

is closed on Sunday and Monday. 3401 N. Dodge Blvd. 520/323-0781.

Native Seeds/SEARCH

Gardeners, cooks, and just about anyone in

search of an unusual gift will likely be fascinated by this shop, which is operated

434

Seeing Stars

Amateur astronomers, take note.

Astronomy Shop, 3721 E. 37th St.

Because of all the great star-viewing

( 520/571-0877; www.stellarvision

opportunities in southern Arizona, Tuc-

tucson.com). This store is packed with

son has a large number of stargazers,

telescopes of all shapes and sizes, as well

and they all shop at Stellar Vision

as books and star charts.

by a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the biodiversity offered by

native Southwest seeds. The shelves are full of heirloom beans, corn, chilies, and

other seeds from a wide variety of native desert plants. In addition, you’ll also find gourds and inexpensive Tarahumara Indian baskets, bottled sauces and salsas

made from native plants, and books about native agriculture. 3061 N. Campbell Ave.

www.nativeseeds.org. 866/622-5561 or 520/622-5561.

Picánte Designs The plethora of Hispanic-themed icons and accessories

here include milagros, Day of the Dead skeletons, Mexican crosses, jewelry, 9

greeting cards, and folk art from around the world. This is a great place to shop

T

for distinctive south-of-the-border kitschy gifts. 2932 E. Broadway. www.picante

UCSON

tucson.com. 520/320-5699.

Tohono Chul Museum Shops The two shops here are packed with Mex-

ican folk art, nature-themed toys, household items, T-shirts, and books. These

shops are an absolute must after a visit to surrounding Tohono Chul Park, which

Shopping

is landscaped with desert plants. Add a meal at the park’s tearoom, and you’ve

got a good afternoon’s outing. For a description of the park, see p. 401. 7366 N.

Paseo del Norte (1 block west of the corner of Ina and Oracle roads in Tohono Chul Park).

www.tohonochulpark.org. 520/742-6455.

UN Center/UNICEF If your tastes run to ethnic imports, be sure to check

out this great little gift shop. Not only is there a lot of cool stuff from all over the world, but when you buy something here, you’ll also be helping underprivileged

children. Monterey Vil age, 6242 E. Speedway Blvd. www.untucson.org. 520/881-7060.

Jewelry

In addition to the store mentioned below, see the listing for the Obsidian Gallery

under “Crafts,” above.

Beth Friedman Collection This shop sells a well-chosen collection of jew-

elry by Native American craftspeople and international designers. It also carries

some extravagant cowgirl get-ups in velvet and lace, as well as contemporary

women’s fashions. At Joesler Vil age, 1865 E. River Rd., Ste. 121. www.bethfriedman.com.

520/577-6858.

Malls & Shopping Centers

Casas Adobes Plaza With some of the best boutiques in Tucson, a great

Southwestern crafts shop, and several good restaurants, this little hacienda-style

shopping center in the foothills is a great place to spend an afternoon shopping.

7001–7153 N. Oracle Rd. www.casasadobesplaza.com. 520/299-2610.

435

Foothills Mall This large factory-outlet mall and discount shopping center

has, among many other stores, a Nike Factory Store, Saks Fifth Avenue Off 5th,

and Barnes & Noble, as well as a brewpub and a couple of good restaurants. 7401

N. La Chol a Blvd. (at Ina Rd.). www.shopfoothil smal .com. 520/219-0650.

Mercado San Agustin Located off Congress Street west of I-10, this small

market feels like it has been here for a century or more, but it actually opened

in 2011. Although there are only a handful of shops and eateries here, it’s such

an interesting place, it’s worth a visit. 100 S. Avenida del Convento. www.mercadosan agustin.com. 520/461-1110.

St. Philip’s Plaza This upscale Southwestern-style shopping center contains

a couple of good restaurants, a beauty salon/day spa, and numerous shops and

galleries. On Saturday and Sunday mornings, there is a farmers’ market. Makes a

great one-stop Tucson shopping outing. 4280 N. Campbell Ave. (at River Rd.). www.

stphilipsplaza.com. 520/529-2775.

Tucson Mall The foothills of northern Tucson have become shopping-center

9 central, and this is the largest of the malls. You’ll find more than 200 retailers in this busy, two-story skylit complex. 4500 N. Oracle Rd. www.shoptucsonmal .com.

520/293-7330.

Mexican & Latin American Imports

In addition to the shop mentioned below, the “Lost Barrio,” on the corner of Shopping Southwest Park Avenue and 12th Street (a block south of Broadway), is a good place to look for Mexican imports and Southwestern-style home furnishings at

good prices.

Antigua de Mexico This warehouselike shop is absolutely packed with

UCSON

crafts from Mexico—oversize ceramics and painted plates, wooden and wrought-

T

iron furniture, and punched-metal frames and framed mirrors. Smaller items

include crucifixes and candlesticks. 3235 W. Orange Grove Rd. www.antiguademexico.

us. 520/742-7114.

Native American Art, Crafts & Jewelry

Bahti Indian Arts Family-owned for more than 50 years, this store sells

exquisitely made Native American crafts—jewelry, baskets, sculpture, paintings,

weavings, kachina dolls, Zuni fetishes, and much more. At St. Philip’s Plaza, 4330 N.

Campbell Ave., Ste. 73. www.bahti.com. 520/577-0290.

Gallery West Located right below Anthony’s in the Catalinas restaurant, this

tiny shop specializes in very expensive Native American artifacts (mostly pre-

1940s) such as New Mexico Pueblo pots, Apache and Pima baskets, 19th-cen-

tury Plains Indian beadwork, Navajo weavings, and kachinas. Also for sale is

plenty of both contemporary and vintage jewelry. 6420 N. Campbell Ave. (at Skyline

Dr.). www.indianartwest.com. 520/529-7002.

Grey Dog Trading Company Located in St. Philip’s Plaza, where you’ll also

find Bahti Indian Arts, this is another of Tucson’s oldest and most reliable shops

for Native American art and crafts. While the emphasis here is on works by mem-

bers of Southwest tribes, you’ll also find pieces from artists all across the U.S.

and Canada. At St. Philip’s Plaza, 4330 N. Campbell Ave., Ste. 130. www.greydogtrading.

com. 877/331-7367 or 520/881-6888.

436

Medicine Man Gallery/Mark Sublette Modern This shop has the best

and biggest selection of old Navajo rugs in the city. There are also Mexican and

other Hispanic textiles, Acoma pottery, basketry, and other Indian crafts, as well

as artwork by cowboy artists. At Santa Fe Square, 7000 E. Tanque Verde Rd., Ste. 16. www.

medicinemangal ery.com. 800/422-9382 or 520/722-7798.

Morning Star Traders

With hardwood floors and a museumlike

atmosphere, this store features Native American crafts of the highest quality,

including antique Navajo rugs, kachinas, furniture, and a huge selection of old

Native American jewelry. This just may be the best store of its type in the entire

state. An adjoining shop, Morning Star Antiques, carries an impressive selection

of antique furniture (see “Antiques & Collectibles,” above). 2020 E. Speedway Blvd.

www.morningstartraders.com. 520/881-2112.

Western Wear

Arizona Hatters Arizona Hatters carries the best names in cowboy hats,

from Stetson to Bailey to Resistol, and the shop specializes in custom-fitting hats

to the customer’s head and face. 2790 N. Campbell Ave. www.arizonahatters.com.

9

520/292-1320.

T

Boot Barn If you want to put together your Western-wear ensemble under

UCSON

one roof, this is the place. It’s the largest such store in Tucson and can outfit you and your kids in the latest cowboy fashions, including hats and boots. In Northwest

Plaza, 3719 N. Oracle Rd. (at Prince Rd.). www.bootbarn.com. 520/888-1161.

J. Gilbert Footwear The old West and the new West come together at this

Entertainment & Nightlife

foothills shoe store. You can buy both men’s and women’s Lucchese cowboy

boots, as well as lots of other gorgeous shoes from a range of designers from

around the world. Of course, there’s also plenty of Western wear to go with your

new shoes. At Casas Adobes Plaza, 7041 N. Oracle Rd. www.jgilbertfootwear.com.

520/531-8385.

Stewart Boot Manufacturing Co. Boots that fit so well you don’t even

need socks. That’s how a Tucson friend described the custom-made cowboy

boots turned out by this South Tucson boot maker. You’ll have to wait for your

boots, though, because all the boots sold here are made to order. 30 W. 28th St.

http://stewartbootcompany.com. 520/622-2706.

ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE

Tucson after dark is a much easier landscape to negotiate than the vast cultural

sprawl of the Phoenix area. Rather than having numerous performing-arts cen-

ters all over the suburbs as in the Valley of the Sun, Tucson has a more concen-

trated nightlife scene. The Downtown Arts District is the center of the action, with the Temple of Music and Art, the Tucson Convention Center Music Hall,

and several nightclubs. The University of Arizona campus, a mile away, is

another entertainment nexus.

The free Tucson Weekly contains thorough listings of concerts, theater and

dance performances, and club offerings. The entertainment section of the Ari-

zona Daily Star (“Caliente”) comes out each Thursday and is a good source of information for what’s going on around town.

437

The Performing Arts

Tucson’s performing arts scene is just as lively as Phoenix’s, and three of Tucson’s major companies—the Arizona Opera Company, Ballet Arizona, and the Arizona

Theatre Company—spend half their time in Phoenix. This means that whatever

gets staged in Phoenix also gets staged in Tucson. Tucson also has its own sym-

phony and manages to sustain a diversified theater scene. Usually, the best way

to purchase tickets is directly from the company’s box office. Tickets to Tucson

Convention Center events (but not the symphony or the opera) and other venues

around town may be available through Ticketmaster ( 800/745-3000; www.

ticketmaster.com) or by stopping by the TCC box office, 260 S. Church Ave.

( 520/791-4101; www.cityoftucson.org/tcc).

PERFORMING ARTS CENTERS & CONCERT HALLS

Tucson’s largest performance venue is the Tucson Convention Center (TCC)

Music Hall, 260 S. Church Ave. ( 520/791-4101; www.cityoftucson.org/

tcc). It’s the home of the Tucson Symphony Orchestra and where the Arizona

9 Opera Company usually performs when it’s in town. This hall also hosts many

touring companies. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10:30am

to 5:30pm. The centerpiece of the Tucson theater scene is the Temple of

Music and Art, 330 S. Scott Ave. ( 520/622-2823), a restored historic theater dating from 1927. Call for box office hours.

University of Arizona Centennial Hall, 1020 E. University Blvd. at Park

Avenue ( 520/621-3341; www.uapresents.org), on the UA campus, is Tuc-

son’s other main performance hall. It stages Broadway shows and performances

by national and international musical acts. A big stage and excellent sound sys-

tem permit large-scale productions. The box office is open Monday through Fri-

day from 10am to 6pm, and September to May Saturday from noon to 5pm and

Sunday from noon to 4pm.

Entertainment & Nightlife

Originally opened in 1930, downtown Tucson’s Fox Theatre, 17 W. Con-

gress St. ( 520/624-1515 or 520/547-3040; www.foxtucsontheatre.org), is a

restored movie palace that is now the city’s most beautiful place to catch live

music, a play, or even a classic or independent film. The box office is open Tues-

UCSON

day through Friday from 11am to 6pm and on performance Saturdays and Sun-

T

days from 2 hours before showtime.

The Center for the Arts Proscenium Theatre, Pima Community Col-

lege (West Campus), 2202 W. Anklam Rd. ( 520/206-6986; www.pima.edu/

cfa), is another good place to check for classical music performances. It offers a

wide variety of shows.

OUTDOOR VENUES

Weather permitting, Tucsonans head to Reid Park’s DeMeester Outdoor Per-

formance Center, at Country Club Road and East 22nd Street ( 520/791-

4873), for performances under the stars. This amphitheater stages live theater performances, as well as frequent concerts (many of which are free).

CLASSICAL MUSIC, OPERA & DANCE

Both the Tucson Symphony Orchestra ( 520/882-8585 or 520/792-9155;

www.tucsonsymphony.org), which is the oldest continuously performing sym-

phony in the Southwest, and the Arizona Opera Company ( 520/293-

4336; www.azopera.org), the state’s premier opera company, perform at the

Tucson Convention Center’s Tucson Music Hall. Symphony tickets run mostly

438

Stevie Eller Dance Theatre stages performances by the UA Dance Ensemble.

$25 to $65; opera tickets are $36 to $136. If you want to catch some economical

9

classical music, check out the schedule at the University of Arizona College

of Fine Arts School of Music ( 520/621-1162; www.music.arizona.edu).

T

Performances include classical music and opera held in the Music Building’s

UCSON

Crowder and Holsclaw halls, both of which are near the intersection of Speed-

way Boulevard and Park Avenue on the UA campus. Equally worthwhile are the

performances by the UA Dance Ensemble, which are staged in the Stevie Eller

Dance Theatre, a little jewel box of a building. The bold contemporary archi-Entertainment & Nightlife

tecture of this building makes seeing a performance here a double treat. Call the

above number for information on performances.

THEATER

Tucson doesn’t have a lot of theater companies, but what few it does have

stage a surprisingly diverse sampling of both classic and contemporary plays. Arizona Theatre Company ( 520/622-2823; www.aztheatreco.org), which

performs at the Temple of Music and Art, splits its time between Tucson and

Phoenix, and is the state’s top professional theater company. Each season sees a

mix of comedy, drama, and Broadway-style musical shows; tickets cost $31 to

$60. The Invisible Theatre, 1400 N. First Ave. ( 520/882-9721; www.

invisibletheatre.com), a tiny theater in a converted laundry building, has

been home to Tucson’s most experimental theater for more than 40 years (it does

off-Broadway shows). Tickets run about $25 to $42.

The West just wouldn’t be the West without good old-fashioned melodra-

mas, and the Gaslight Theatre, 7010 E. Broadway Blvd. ( 520/886-9428;

www.thegaslighttheatre.com), is where evil villains, stalwart heroes, and defense-

less heroines pound the boards. You can boo and hiss, cheer and sigh as the pre-

dictable stories unfold on stage. It’s great fun for kids and adults, with plenty of pop-culture references. Tickets are $18 for adults, $16 for students and seniors,

and $8 for kids 12 and under. Tickets often sell out a month in advance.

At the Mystery Dinner Theater, 2744 E. Broadway Blvd. ( 520/624-

0172; www.tucsondinnertheater.com), you can help figure out whodunit. This is Arizona’s oldest mystery dinner theater and evenings here are loads of fun. Dinner and the show runs $42 per person, while a ticket for just the show is $29.

There’s also a late night show that starts at 10pm and does not include dinner. At

press time, this was a combination karaoke contest and murder mystery.

439

Live Music & Dance Clubs

COMEDY

Laffs Comedy Caffé This stand-up comedy club features local and profes-

sional comedians from around the country Thursday through Saturday nights. A

full bar and a limited menu are available. At the Vil age, 2900 E. Broadway Blvd., Ste.

154. www.laffscomedyclub.com. 520/323-8669. Cover free Thurs, $10–$15 Fri–Sat.

COUNTRY

Cactus Moon Café A 20- to 40-something crowd frequents this large and

glitzy nightclub, which features primarily country music (with dance lessons sev-

eral nights each week). Keep in mind, though, that rock instead of country may

be played on some nights. Check the schedule before putting on your boots. 5470

E. Broadway Blvd. (at Craycroft Rd.). www.cactusmoon.net. 520/748-0049. No cover to $5.

The Maverick The Maverick, in different incarnations and different locations

around town, has been Tucson’s favorite country-music dance club since 1962.

9 Currently it’s located in a modern space out in east Tucson and is open Tuesday

through Saturday nights, with live country music every night. 6622 E. Tanque Verde

Rd. www.tucsonmaverick.com. 520/298-0430. No cover to $5.

JAZZ

To find out what’s happening on the local jazz scene, contact the Tucson

Jazz Society ( 520/903-1265; www.tucsonjazz.org). This organization’s website lists various jazz nights at restaurants all over Tucson, including Old

Pueblo Grill Alvernon, 60 N. Alvernon Way ( 520/326-6000; www.metro restaurants.com), with live jazz on Saturday and Sunday nights.

The Grill/Terraza Garden Patio & Lounge

No other jazz venue in

Tucson has more flavor of the Southwest than this restaurant/lounge perched

Entertainment & Nightlife high on a ridge top overlooking the city. There are live bands (jazz, blues, flamenco) Friday and Saturday nights, and a pianist on other nights. At Hacienda del

Sol Guest Ranch Resort, 5501 N. Hacienda del Sol Rd. www.haciendadelsol.com. 520/

529-3500.

UCSONT

MARIACHI

Tucson is the mariachi capital of the

United States, and no one should

visit without spending at least one

evening listening to some of these

strolling musicians. At the St.

Augustine Cathedral, 192 S. Stone

Ave. ( 520/623-6351; www.st

augustinecathedral.org), there is even

a mariachi Mass every Sunday at

8am.

Guadalajara Grill Located just

west of North Campbell Avenue,

this large Mexican restaurant is con-

venient to several of the foothills Sample mariachi and Mexican food at La Fuente.

resorts, which makes it a great place

440

to catch an evening of lively mariachi music. The musicians perform nightly. 1220

E. Prince Rd. www.ggril .com. 520/323-1022.

La Fuente La Fuente is one of the largest Mexican restaurants in Tucson

and serves up good food, but what really draws the crowds is the live mariachi

music. If you just want to listen and not have dinner, you can hang out in the

lounge. The mariachis perform Friday and Saturday nights and for Sunday

brunch. 1749 N. Oracle Rd. www.lafuenterestaurant.com. 520/623-8659.

ROCK, BLUES, REGGAE & SALSA

Chicago Bar Transplanted Chicagoans love to watch their home teams on the

TVs at this neighborhood bar, but there’s also live music nightly. Sure, blues gets

played a lot, but so do reggae and rock and about everything in between. 5954 E.

Speedway Blvd. www.chicagobartucson.com. 520/748-8169. No cover to $5.

Club Congress Just off the lobby of the restored Hotel Congress (now a bud-

get hotel catering to younger travelers), Club Congress is Tucson’s main alterna-

tive-music venue. There are usually several nights of live music each week, and

over the years such bands as Nirvana, Dick Dale, and the Goo Goo Dolls have 9

played here, although more recently, the club has tended to book primarily local

and regional acts. 311 E. Congress St. www.hotelcongress.com. 520/622-8848. No

TUCSON

cover to $25.

El Parador Restaurant Tropical decor sets the mood for live Latin dance

music on Friday and Saturday nights. There are also dance lessons each night

before the music gets started. Customers of this club range from 20- to 60-some-

Entertainment & Nightlife

things. 2744 E. Broadway. www.elparadortucson.com. 520/881-2744. Cover $5–$7.

Plush This Fourth Avenue club has long been one of Tucson’s top venues for

live alternative rock and other eclectic musical styles. You might catch some

garage rockabilly, alt country, or Celtic music. 340 E. Sixth St. www.plushtucson.com.

520/798-1298. No cover to $15.

The Rialto Theatre This renovated 1919 vaudeville theater, although not a

nightclub, is Tucson’s main venue for performances by bands that are too big to

play across the street at Club Congress. 318 E. Congress St. www.rialtotheatre.com.

520/740-1000. Tickets $8–$35.

Bars & Pubs

DOWNTOWN & SOUTH TUCSON

Barrio Brewing Co. Located in a warehouse district southeast of downtown

and a few blocks south of Broadway, this big brewpub, which is affiliated with

Gentle Ben’s Brewing Co., isn’t easy to find, but it is definitely worth searching

out. Grab a seat on the loading-dock patio and sip a stout as the sun goes down.

800 E. 16th St. (at E. Euclid Ave. and Toole St.). www.barriobrewing.com. 520/791-2739.

Cushing Street Bar & Restaurant Located on the edge of the Barrio

Histórico district just south of the Tucson Convention Center, this restaurant/bar

is in a historic 1860s adobe building and has loads of old Tucson character.

There’s also live jazz on Saturday nights. 198 W. Cushing St. www.cushingstreet.com.

520/622-7984.

Nimbus Brewing Located in a warehouse district on the south side of

Tucson, this brewpub is basically the front room of Nimbus’s brewing and

441

bottling facility. The beer is good, and there’s live blues, rock, folk, and reggae on a regular basis. Hard to find, and definitely a local scene. There’s a second Nimbus at 6464 E. Tanque Verde Rd. ( 520/269-6309). 3850 E. 44th St. (2 blocks east of Palo Verde Rd.). www.nimbusbeer.com. 520/745-9175.

Playground When it’s time for recess, head to this hip downtown bar.

Playground has a fun feel and several different spaces in which to sip a pint of

beer, glass of wine, or a cocktail. The back patio is the perfect spot for warm eve-

nings or sunny afternoons. DJs spin disks several nights a week, with different

themes (mod Mondays, old school Thursdays, and so on). 278 E. Congress St. www.

playgroundtucson.com. 520/396-3691.

¡Toma! This bar, in El Presidio Historic District and owned by the family

that operates El Charro Café next door, has a fun and festive atmosphere com-

plete with a Mexican hat fountain/sculpture in the courtyard. Drop by for half-

price margaritas and appetizers during happy hour (Mon–Fri 3–6pm). 311 N. Court

Ave. 520/622-1922.

9 CENTRAL TUCSON

Audubon Bar If you’re looking for a quiet, comfortable scene, the piano

music in this classic lounge at the Arizona Inn is sure to soothe your soul. The

Audubon has a timeless feel, and before or after drinks, you can stroll the resort’s beautiful gardens. 2200 E. Elm St. www.arizonainn.com. 520/325-1541.

Famous Sam’s With nine branches around the city, Famous Sam’s keeps a lot

of Tucson’s sports fans happy with its cheap prices and large portions. Other

locations include 8058 N. Oracle Rd. ( 520/531-9464), and 2320 N. Silver-

bell Rd. ( 520/884-7267). 1830 E. Broadway Blvd., no. 106. www.famoussams.net.

520/884-0119.

Gentle Ben’s Brewing Co. Located just off the UA campus, Gentle Ben’s,

Entertainment & Nightlife a big, modern place with plenty of outdoor seating, is Tucson’s favorite microbrewery and, not surprisingly, attracts primarily a college crowd. 865 E. University Blvd. www.gentlebens.com. 520/624-4177.

The Kon Tiki With a Polynesian luau theme, this joint is not some modern-

UCSON

day designer’s idea of what the 1950s were like; this is the real thing. Tiki lovers T

rejoice, but be careful, those sweet tropical cocktails can pack a Hawaiian punch!

4625 E. Broadway Blvd. www.kontikitucson.com. 520/323-7193.

1702 This centrally located pub has the best selection of taps in the city and is

definitely the place for beer geeks to hang out after they’ve checked out the local

crafter breweries. On any given day, you might find 50 beers on tap. 1701 E.

Speedway Blvd. www.1702az.com. 520/325-1702.

The Shelter Housed in an unusual round building that supposedly was once

a fallout shelter (thus the name of the bar), this place is totally retro, with lots of JFK memorabilia on the walls. There are even vintage pinball machines. Fun and

funky. 4155 E. Grant Rd. http://thesheltercocktail ounge.com. 520/326-1345.

Sky Bar Taking the night sky as its theme, this bar has telescopes set up on

the patio at night, projects images from space on screens around the room, and

has regularly scheduled astronomy lectures and presentations. As if this astro-

nomical orientation isn’t cool enough, the Sky Bar is also solar powered, utilizing

power from a photovoltaic array on the roof. 536 N. Fourth Ave. www.skybartucson.

com. 520/622-4300.

442

EAST TUCSON

The Canyon’s Crown It’s so cool and dark and appropriately atmospheric

inside this eastside English pub that you’d never know that sunshine and blue

skies lurk just outside the door. This is a great place to stop for a pint after hiking at Sabino Canyon. 6958 E. Tanque Verde Rd. www.canyonscrown.com. 520/885-8277.

THE FOOTHILLS

Armitage Wine Lounge If you’re a wine lover and are staying at a foothills

resort, be sure to check out this stylish wine bar at the corner of Skyline and

Campbell. In addition to having more than 30 wines available by the glass, they

also have a long cocktail menu. In La Encantada shopping center, 2905 E. Skyline Dr., Ste.

168. www.armitagewine.com. 520/682-9740.

Cascade Tucson Lounge This is Tucson’s ultimate piano bar. With a view

of the Catalinas, the plush lounge is perfect for romance or relaxation at the start or end of a night on the town. Wednesday through Friday nights, there’s live

piano music or a jazz band, and on Saturdays, there’s a live band and dancing. At

Loews Ventana Canyon Resort, 7000 N. Resort Dr. www.loewshotels.com. 520/299-2020.

9

The Parish If you’re looking for a comfy, modern gastropub close to your

T

northwest Tucson resort or hotel, join the congregation at the Parish. Not only

UCSON

does this pub have a good beers and cocktails made with house-infused spirits,

but there’s good southern-fusion food, too. 6453 N. Oracle Rd. www.theparishtucson.

com. 520/979-1233.

Thunder Canyon Brewery Although I usually prefer the beers at Nimbus

Entertainment & Nightlife

Brewing, this big brewpub is way more convenient if you’re staying at a foothills

resort. There are always plenty of different brews on tap, and some of them can be

both unusual and tasty. At Foothil s Mall, 7401 N. La Chol a Blvd. (at Ina Rd.). www.thunder canyonbrewery.com. 520/797-2652.

Union Public House This classy gastropub in the St. Philip’s Plaza shopping

center has an extensive list of beers on tap, and many of them are from Arizona

breweries. There are good happy hour offerings and a big patio for enjoying the

balmy Tucson weather. 4340 N. Campbell Ave., Ste. 103. 520/329-8575.

The LGBT Scene

For more information on the Tucson LGBT scene, check out www.gaytucson.

com.

Colors Food and Spirits With live music several nights a week, drag shows,

game nights, and karaoke, this club always has something going on and is a lot of

fun. Currently, every third Saturday is “gals” night. 5305 E. Speedway Blvd. www.

colorstucson.com. 520/323-1840. No cover to $5.

IBT’s Located on funky Fourth Avenue, IBT’s has long been the most popular

gay men’s dance bar in town. The music ranges from 1980s retro to hip-hop, and

regular drag shows add to the fun. There’s always an interesting crowd. 616 N. 4th

Ave. www.ibtstucson.com. 520/882-3053.

New Moon This combination sports bar and show club is another of Tucson’s

gay bars that always seems to have something going on. There are drag shows and

tea dances, live music, and karaoke. 915 W. Prince Rd. 520/293-7339.

443

Woody’s At this neighborhood bar, there’s live jazz on Fridays, karaoke on

Sundays, and DJs spinning music on the weekends. Woody’s has a big patio,

complete with cabanas, so you can take advantage of the balmy Tucson air. 3710

N. Oracle Rd. www.mywoodysaz.com. 520/292-6702.

Casinos

Casino del Sol Located 15 miles southwest of Tucson off I-19 (take the

Valencia Rd. exit and drive west) and operated by the Pascua Yaqui tribe, this is

one of the two largest casinos in southern Arizona. There are plenty of slot

machines, plus keno, bingo, and a card room. 5655 W. Valencia Rd. www.casinodelsol.

com. 855/765-7829.

Desert Diamond Casino Operated by the Tohono O’odham tribe and just

off I-19 south of Tucson, this casino offers the same variety of slot and video

poker machines found at other casinos in the state. A card room, bingo, and keno

round out the options. 1100 W. Pima Mine Rd., Sahuarita (take exit 80 off I-19). www.

9 desertdiamondcasino.com. 866/332-9467 or 520/294-7777.

Spectator Sports

FOOTBALL The University of Arizona Wildcats ( 800/452-2287 or

520/621-2287; www.arizonaathletics.com), a Pac-10 team, play at UA’s Ari-

zona Stadium. Most tickets are in the $20 to $60 range.

e to Stay

GOLF TOURNAMENTS The

Accenture Match Play Championship ( 520/

571-0400; www.pgatour.com), Tucson’s main PGA tournament, is held in

Wher

late February at the Ritz-Carlton Golf Club at Dove Mountain. Daily tickets

are $25 to $55.

HORSE/GREYHOUND RACING Rillito Park Race Track, 4502 N. First Ave.

( 520/293-5011; www.pimacountyattractions.com/attractions/rillito.html),

UCSONT

the birthplace of both the photo finish and organized quarter horse and Ara-

bian racing, hosts quarter horse and thoroughbred racing for 6 weeks each

winter. The ponies run on weekends from late January to late March, and

admission is $5 to $8.

Greyhounds race year-round at Tucson Greyhound Park, 2601 S.

Third Ave. ( 520/884-7576; www.tucsongreyhound.com). Admission is

free. Races are held Monday through Saturday evenings. To reach the track,

take exit 261 off I-10.

WHERE TO STAY

Although Phoenix still holds the title of Resort Capital of Arizona, Tucson is not

far behind, and this city’s resorts boast much more spectacular settings than most

comparable properties in Phoenix and Scottsdale. As far as nonresort accommo-

dations go, Tucson has a wider variety than Phoenix—partly because there are

numerous bed-and-breakfast inns both in historic neighborhoods and in the des-

ert on the outskirts of the city. The presence of two guest ranches within a

20-minute drive of Tucson also adds to the city’s diversity of accommodations.

Business and budget travelers are well served with all-suite and conference

hotels, as well as plenty of budget chain motels.

At the more expensive hotels and resorts, summer rates, usually in effect

from May to September, are often less than half what they are in winter.

444

Surprisingly, temperatures usually aren’t unbearable in May or September, which

makes these good times to visit if you’re looking to save money. When making

late-spring or early-fall reservations, always be sure to ask when rates are sched-

uled to go up or down. If you aren’t coming to Tucson specifically for the winter

gem and mineral shows, then you’ll save quite a bit if you avoid the last week in

January and the first 2 weeks in February, when hotels around town generally

charge exorbitant rates.

BED & BREAKFASTS If you’re looking to stay in a B&B, several agencies can

help. The Arizona Association of Bed & Breakfast Inns (www.arizona-

bed-breakfast.com) has several members in Tucson. Mi Casa Su Casa

( 800/456-0682 or 480/990-0682; www.azres.com) can book you into

one of its many B&Bs and homestays in the Tucson area or elsewhere in the

state, as will Arizona Trails Travel Services ( 888/799-4284 or

480/837-4284; www.arizonatrails.com), which also books tour and hotel

reservations.

Downtown & Central Tucson

9

VERY EXPENSIVE

T

Arizona Inn

With its pink-stucco buildings and immaculately

UCSON

tended flower gardens, the Arizona Inn is an oasis of tranquillity. Gracious and

welcoming, it’s an unforgettable place to spend a vacation. Opened in 1930 by

Isabella Greenway, Arizona’s first congresswoman, the inn is still family-owned

and -operated, and is imbued with Old Arizona charm. Playing a game of cro-

Wher

quet, taking high tea in the library, or lounging by the pool, I always feel as if this were my second home. Guest rooms vary in size and decor, but most have a mix

e to Stay

of reproduction antiques and original pieces made for the inn years ago by World

War I veterans with disabilities. Some units have gas fireplaces, and most suites

have private patios or enclosed sun porches. The inn’s Main Dining Room

(p. 420) is a casually elegant space. Fragrant flowering trees and vines surround

the small pool.

2200 E. Elm St., Tucson, AZ 85719. www.arizonainn.com. 800/933-1093 or 520/325-1541. Fax 520/881-5830. 95 units. Mid-Jan to mid-Apr from $329 double, from $459 suite; mid-Apr to May from $219 double, from $369 suite; June to mid-Sept from $149 double, from $289 suite; mid-Sept to mid-Dec from $219 double, from $369 suite; mid-Dec to mid-Jan $259 double, from $359 suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants, including the Main Dining Room (review, p. 420); 2 lounges; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room; heated outdoor pool; room service; saunas; 2 Har-Tru clay tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

EXPENSIVE

Doubletree by Hilton Tucson-Reid Park This in-town high-rise hotel,

with its pleasant orange-tree-shaded pool area, is midway between the airport

and downtown Tucson, and is something of an in-town budget resort (the Ran-

dolph Park municipal golf course is right across the street). Guest rooms boast

bright colors and bold contemporary designs, and there’s a big exercise room by

the pool. Although the hotel does a lot of convention business and sometimes

feels crowded, the gardens, with their citrus trees (feel free to pick the fruit)

and lawns, are always tranquil. Guest rooms are divided between a nine-story

tower that offers views of the valley (even-numbered rooms face the pool,

445

d.

Silv

To Phoenix

1

lvd.

CORONADO

e

Hardy Rd.

rb

Arizona Inn 16

e

5

NATIONAL

l

Tucson Hotels

l R

Cortaro Farms Rd.

FOREST

Canyon Ranch Health Resort 13

d. d.

Casino del Sol Resort Spa and

Magee Rd.

10

Tohono Chul

Conference Center 4

ade RW

hola B

.r

Park 6

Catalina Park Inn 21

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

Comfort Suites at Sabino

Thornydale R

a D

Sabino

La C

dan

K

Canyon

Canyon 18

a

olb R 11

Recreation

Doubletree by Hilton Tucson-Reid

Orange Grove Rd.

a C

Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

Area

L

12

Park 25

8

d.

13

9

Sabino Canyon Rd.

Courtyard Tucson Williams

7

Center 26

Sunset Rd.

Sunrise Dr.

SAGUARO

.

Embassy Suites Tucson-Paloma

K

d.

10

.

d

NATIONAL

d

o

R

lb R

Village 8

PARK

Ruthrauff

. River Rd.

t Rf

El Camino de Cerro

n R

o

Embassy Suites Tucson-Williams

Rd.

.

d

r

a

Snyder Rd.

d

c

d

s R

w

y

n

Center 27

l Wetmore Rd.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

S

a

.

r

oy

o R

l

r

e

15

C

na

Extended StayAmerica Tucson 17

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger .Rd.

14

C

m

g W

ve.

e

Hacienda del Sol Guest Ranch

o

n

v

R

i

A

este

w

Prince Rd.

River

Resort 10

ol

.

Rd.

F

dR

.

To Mount

Hilton Tucson El Conquistador

de O

Ft. L

ev

owell Rd.

o

Miracle Mile

Lemmon

Golf & Tennis Resort 5

.

Ft. Lowell

Bear

n i

d

.

v

Park

m

l

d

ya

Hotel Congress 22

a

l A

18

C

Hyatt Place Tucson Airport 28

Ironwood H

20

i

l

ll Dr.

Grant Rd.

d

e

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

e

i

l

l

b

The Inns at El Rancho Merlita 20

c

c

p

b R

17

a

u

10

r

E

m

n B

ul

n W

JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort

O

Stone A

a

o

C 16 s

o

c

n

19

Speedway Blvd.

u

r

Speedway Blvd.

& Spa 2

To Saguaro National Park (West),

G

21

T

y Cr

e

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

r

t

vl

Rd.

a

La Posada Lodge and Casitas 7

6th St. n

A

n

& Old Tucson

u

5th St.

ass

Anklam Rd.

d

o

e A

The Lodge at Ventana Canyon 12

C

24

.

To Saguaro National

Gates P

22

Broadway Blvd.

.

27

d

Park (East)

The Lodge on the Desert 24

Congress

d

t R

d.

d.

v

Historic

25

26 f

Loews Ventana Canyon

Tucson Mountain

e

K

Reid

n R

o

i

.

n

Districts

a

rc

ot R

ney

Park

23

Park

w

y

Resort 11

R

Sentinel

22nd St.

S

ar

ilm

Kolb R

d

2

210

C

W

22nd St.

.

Omni Tucson National Golf

3

Silverlake Rd.

Peak

Resort 1

Park

Tucson

Greyhound 36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

Radisson Suites Tucson 19

Park

d.

Riverside Suites 15

eco

The Royal Elizabeth 23

Bopp Rd.

Ajo Way

Escalante Rd.

Starr Pass Golf Suites 3

ino S

.

The Westin La Paloma Resort

ay

d

10

D A V I S

d.

v

Pantano R

l

Cam

& Spa 9

Irvington Rd.

M O N T H A N

Irvington

Ajo W

Rd.

o B

Westward Look Resort 6

n

A F B

i

d.

86

K

Windmill Suites at St. Philip’s

Kolb R

Drexel Rd.

Plaza 14

erde R

ve.

ve.

Palo V

Valencia Rd.

Valencia Rd.

Flagstaff

4

d.

28

12th A

6th A

ARIZONA

Phoenix

Los Reales Rd.

Tucson

ission R

19

Tucson

10

M

International

0

2 mi

SAN XAVIER

Airport

To Nogales

0

2 km

INDIAN RESERVATION

446

d.

Silv

To Phoenix

1

lvd.

CORONADO

e

Hardy Rd.

rb

Arizona Inn 16

e

5

NATIONAL

l

Tucson Hotels

l R

Cortaro Farms Rd.

FOREST

Canyon Ranch Health Resort 13

d. d.

Casino del Sol Resort Spa and

Magee Rd.

10

Tohono Chul

Conference Center 4

ade RW

hola B

.r

Park 6

Catalina Park Inn 21

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

Ina Rd.

Comfort Suites at Sabino

Thornydale R

a D

Sabino

La C

dan

K

Canyon

Canyon 18

a

olb R 11

Recreation

Doubletree by Hilton Tucson-Reid

Orange Grove Rd.

a C

Orange Grove Rd.

Skyline Dr.

Area

L

12

Park 25

8

d.

13

9

Sabino Canyon Rd.

Courtyard Tucson Williams

7

Center 26

Sunset Rd.

Sunrise Dr.

SAGUARO

.

Embassy Suites Tucson-Paloma

K

d.

10

.

d

NATIONAL

d

o

R

lb R

Village 8

PARK

Ruthrauff

. River Rd.

t Rf

El Camino de Cerro

n R

o

Embassy Suites Tucson-Williams

Rd.

.

d

r

a

Snyder Rd.

d

c

d

s R

w

y

n

Center 27

l Wetmore Rd.

Hacienda del Sol Rd.

S

a

.

r

oy

o R

l

r

e

15

C

na

Extended StayAmerica Tucson 17

Sweetwater Dr.

e

Roger .Rd.

14

C

m

g W

ve.

e

Hacienda del Sol Guest Ranch

o

n

v

R

i

A

este

w

Prince Rd.

River

Resort 10

ol

.

Rd.

F

dR

.

To Mount

Hilton Tucson El Conquistador

de O

Ft. L

ev

owell Rd.

o

Miracle Mile

Lemmon

Golf & Tennis Resort 5

.

Ft. Lowell

Bear

n i

d

.

v

Park

m

l

d

ya

Hotel Congress 22

a

l A

18

C

Hyatt Place Tucson Airport 28

Ironwood H

20

i

l

ll Dr.

Grant Rd.

d

e

Grant Rd.

Tanque Verde Rd.

e

i

l

l

b

The Inns at El Rancho Merlita 20

c

c

p

b R

17

a

u

10

r

E

m

n B

ul

n W

JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort

O

Stone A

a

o

C 16 s

o

c

n

19

Speedway Blvd.

u

r

Speedway Blvd.

& Spa 2

To Saguaro National Park (West),

G

21

T

y Cr

e

Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

r

t

vl

Rd.

a

La Posada Lodge and Casitas 7

6th St. n

A

n

& Old Tucson

u

5th St.

ass

Anklam Rd.

d

o

e A

The Lodge at Ventana Canyon 12

C

24

.

To Saguaro National

Gates P

22

Broadway Blvd.

.

27

d

Park (East)

The Lodge on the Desert 24

Congress

d

t R

d.

d.

v

Historic

25

26 f

Loews Ventana Canyon

Tucson Mountain

e

K

Reid

n R

o

i

.

n

Districts

a

rc

ot R

ney

Park

23

Park

w

y

Resort 11

R

Sentinel

22nd St.

S

ar

ilm

Kolb R

d

2

210

C

W

22nd St.

.

Omni Tucson National Golf

3

Silverlake Rd.

Peak

Resort 1

Park

Tucson

Greyhound 36th St.

Golf Links Rd.

Radisson Suites Tucson 19

Park

d.

Riverside Suites 15

eco

The Royal Elizabeth 23

Bopp Rd.

Ajo Way

Escalante Rd.

Starr Pass Golf Suites 3

ino S

.

The Westin La Paloma Resort

ay

d

10

D A V I S

d.

v

Pantano R

l

Cam

& Spa 9

Irvington Rd.

M O N T H A N

Irvington

Ajo W

Rd.

o B

Westward Look Resort 6

n

A F B

i

d.

86

K

Windmill Suites at St. Philip’s

Kolb R

Drexel Rd.

Plaza 14

erde R

ve.

ve.

Palo V

Valencia Rd.

Valencia Rd.

Flagstaff

4

d.

28

12th A

6th A

ARIZONA

Phoenix

Los Reales Rd.

Tucson

ission R

19

Tucson

10

M

International

0

2 mi

SAN XAVIER

Airport

To Nogales

0

2 km

INDIAN RESERVATION

447

odd-numbered rooms face the mountains) and a two-story building with patio

rooms overlooking the garden and pool area.

445 S. Alvernon Way, Tucson, AZ 85711. www.dtreidpark.com. 800/222-8733 or 520/881-4200. Fax 520/323-5225. 287 units. Jan–May $119–$329 double, $189–$429 suite; June–Aug $89–$139 double, $179–$299 suite; Sept–Dec $119–$259 double, $179–$359 suite. Children 18

and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 lounges; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; 3 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10 per day).

MODERATE

Catalina Park Inn

Close to downtown and overlooking a shady park,

this 1927 home has been lovingly restored by owners Mark Hall and Paul Rich-

ard. From the outside, the inn has the look of a Mediterranean villa, while many

interesting and playful touches enliven the classic interior. The huge Catalina

Room in the basement is one of my favorites. Not only does it conjure up the

inside of an adobe, but it also has a whirlpool tub in a former cedar closet. Two

9 upstairs rooms have balconies, while two units in a separate cottage across the

garden offer more contemporary styling than the rooms in the main house.

309 E. 1st St., Tucson, AZ 85705. www.catalinaparkinn.com. 800/792-4885 or 520/792-4541.

6 units. $119–$189 double. Children 10 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Concierge. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD

e to Stay

player, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Lodge on the Desert Dating from 1936 and set amid neatly manicured

Wher lawns and gardens, the Lodge on the Desert is a classic old Arizona resort that was completely remodeled and expanded in 2009. The relaxing retreat looks a bit

like a Mexican village, with narrow pathways winding between buildings. Guest

rooms are in both hacienda-style adobe buildings tucked amid cacti and orange

UCSON

trees and newly constructed adobe-style two-story buildings. Rooms feature a

T

mix of contemporary and Southwestern furnishings; many units have beamed

ceilings or fireplaces, and some have patios and tile floors. The small pool has a

good view of the Catalinas. The new casitas are definitely the nicest rooms here.

306 N. Alvernon Way, Tucson, AZ 85711-2855. www.lodgeonthedesert.com. 877/498-6776

or 520/320-2000. Fax 520/327-5834. 103 units. Jan to late May $129–$239 double, $159–$289

suite; late May to mid-Sept $89–$169 double, $139–$249 suite; mid-Sept to Dec $109–$239

double, $139–$289 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 deposit plus $25 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Riverside Suites While this all-suites property is primarily aimed at corpo-

rate long-term stays, it is economically priced and conveniently located just off

Campbell Avenue, so it makes a good choice for vacationers as well. Guest

accommodations range from studios to three-bedroom suites, and all have full

kitchens with granite counters. There are also leather couches and other furnish-

ings to make you feel as if you have moved into your own Tucson condominium.

Private patios provide plenty of outdoor space as well. There’s a Trader Joe’s store adjacent to the Riverside Suites in case you want to pick up some groceries for

preparing your own meals. There are also lots of good restaurants nearby.

1725 E. Limberlost Dr., Tucson, AZ 85719. www.riversidesuitestucson.com. 866/415-8586 or 520/202-2210. Fax 520/202-2211. 33 units. Jan–Mar $139 studio suite, $179 1-bedroom suite; 448

Apr and Sept–Dec $119 studio suite, $139 1-bedroom suite; May–Aug $89 studio suite, $119

1-bedroom suite. Rates include continental breakfast. 3-night minimum stay. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Pets accepted ($100 deposit). Amenities: Concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 9-hole putting green; outdoor pool; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

The Royal Elizabeth

Located downtown and just a block from the

Temple of Music and Art, the Royal Elizabeth is an 1878 Victorian adobe man-

sion that features an unusual combination of architectural styles that makes for

a uniquely Southwestern-style inn. In classic 19th-century Tucson fashion, this

historic home looks thoroughly unpretentious from the outside, but inside you’ll

find beautiful woodwork and gorgeous Victorian-era antique furnishings. The

large guest rooms (which are as gorgeous as the rest of the house, with high ceil-

ings, beautiful antiques, and hardwood floors) open off a large, high-ceilinged

central hall. Art galleries, the Tucson Museum of Art, and several good restau-

rants are within walking distance.

204 S. Scott Ave., Tucson, AZ 85701. www.royalelizabeth.com. 877/670-9022 or 520/670-9022. Fax 928/833-9974. 6 units. $159–$219 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 9 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby 9

health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV/VCR/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair T

dryer, free Wi-Fi.

UCSON

INEXPENSIVE

Hotel Congress Located in the heart of downtown Tucson, the Hotel

Congress, built in 1919 to serve railroad passengers, once hosted John Dillinger.

Wher

Today, it operates as a budget hotel and youth hostel and attracts young globe-

trotters. Although the place is utterly basic, the lobby has loads of vintage South-

e to Stay

western elegance. Guest rooms remain true to their historical character, with

antique telephones and old radios, so don’t expect anything fancy (such as TVs).

Most bathrooms have tubs or showers, but a few have both. The classic little

Cup Cafe is just off the lobby (think Edward Hopper meets Gen X), as is the tiny

Tap Room bar. At night, the hotel’s Club Congress (p. 441) is a popular (and

loud) dance club (pick up earplugs at the front desk).

311 E. Congress St., Tucson, AZ 85701. www.hotelcongress.com. 800/722-8848 or 520/622-8848. Fax 520/792-6366. 40 units. $89–$119 double (lower rates in summer). AE, DISC, MC, V.

Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; nightclub. In room: Free Wi-Fi.

East Tucson

EXPENSIVE

Courtyard Tucson Williams Centre Set a block off busy E. Broadway

Boulevard amid tall palm trees, this modern business hotel is in such a pretty

setting that it makes a good choice for vacationers as well as business travelers.

Rooms are large and modern (I prefer the king rooms), but it’s the courtyard, with

its pond, small waterfall, and pleasant pool area, that really makes this an enjoy-

able place to stay. Because this is a business hotel, rates are lower on weekends.

201 S. Williams Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85711. www.marriott.com/tusce. 800/321-2211 or 520/745-6000. Fax 520/745-2393. 153 units. $99–$219 double; $129–$249 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Internet.

449

The Inns at El Rancho Merlita

Once the winter home of cosmetics

queen Merle Norman, this spacious east-side B&B is a sprawling brick ranch

house set behind wide lawns. The views of the Santa Catalina Mountains from

the long veranda are superb, so don’t miss an opportunity to watch the sunset

from this patio. When the home opened as an inn, it was used as a designer show

house, so every room is full of luxurious modern touches. Rooms vary in size, but

for a splurge, it’s impossible to beat the Merle Norman Suite, which has a huge

bathroom with a steam shower and whirlpool tub. This room also has its own

private patio. In back of the house, you’ll find a game cottage, a horseshoe pit,

massage cottage, and a meditation labyrinth. Note that four of the rooms are in a

separate building just outside the grounds of the main house.

1924 N. Corte El Rancho Merlita, Tucson, AZ 85715. www.ranchomerlita.com. 888/218-8418

or 520/495-0071. 8 units. $99–$245 double; $199–$295 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. No children 11 or under. Amenities: Concierge; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

9 MODERATE

Embassy Suites Tucson–Williams Center With its red-tile roof,

cactus gardens, and colonial Mexican furniture in the lobby, this all-suite hotel

feels as if it could be in Mexico, which makes it one of my favorite east Tucson

lodgings. You’ll surely feel like you’re on vacation when you’re here, even if you

are in the middle of a business district. Guest rooms are two-room suites, which

e to Stay

makes this place great for families, and the courtyard pool area, although not very

large, provides plenty of opportunities for soaking up the sun on warm days.

Wher 5335 E. Broadway Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85711. www.tucsonwilliamscenter.embassysuites.com. 800/

362-2779 or 520/745-2700. Fax 520/790-9232. 142 units. Sept–May $129–$209 double; June–Aug $109–$119 double. Rates include full breakfast and evening social hour. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; UCSONT

room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10 fee).

Radisson Suites Tucson

With large and very attractive rooms, this

all-suite hotel is a good choice for both those who need plenty of space and those

who want to be in the east-side business corridor. The five-story brick building is

arranged around two long garden courtyards, one of which has a large pool and

whirlpool. In fact, the pool and gardens are among the nicest at any nonresort

hotel in Tucson and are the best reasons to stay here. Some rooms have Sleep

Number® beds, and rooms on the fourth and fifth floors on the east side have

nice mountain views.

6555 E. Speedway Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85710. www.radissontucson.com. 800/333-3333 or 520/721-7100. Fax 520/721-1991. 299 suites. Oct–May $149–$229 double; June–Sept $129–$149

double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

Comfort Suites at Sabino Canyon Although it looks rather stark from the

outside and shares a parking lot with a shopping center, this Comfort Suites is

surprisingly pleasant inside, and is built around four tranquil and lushly planted

garden courtyards. Most of the rooms are quite large, and some have kitchen-

ettes. This is a good economical choice close to Sabino Canyon, the Mount Lem-

mon Highway, and Saguaro National Park’s east unit.

450

7007 E. Tanque Verde Rd., Tucson, AZ 85715. www.choicehotels.com. 800/424-6423 or 520/298-2300. Fax 520/298-6756. 90 units. $70–$150 double. Rates include full breakfast and evening social hour. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night). Amenities: Access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool.

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Extended StayAmerica Tucson With no pool or exercise room and maid

service only if you pay extra ($5–$10) or stay for more than a week, this east-side

hotel is pretty basic, but the rooms are clean and the rates are low. Guest rooms

also have full kitchens, so you can save even more money on your Tucson stay by

doing a little cooking in your room.

5050 E. Grant Rd., Tucson, AZ 85712. www.extendedstayamerica.com. 800/804-3724 or 520/795-9510. Fax 520/795-9504. 120 units. $57–$90 double (lower weekly rates). Children 17

and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night, $150

maximum). In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, Wi-Fi ($5 fee).

The Foothills

9

VERY EXPENSIVE

The Lodge at Ventana Canyon

The Lodge at Ventana Canyon is part

TUCSON

of a gated country club community at the base of the Santa Catalina Mountains,

so when you stay here you feel more like a resident than just another hotel guest.

Because this is such a small resort, it has a more relaxed feel than the Hilton

Tucson El Conquistador Resort or the Omni Tucson National Resort. Accom-

modations are in spacious suites, most of which have mission-style furnishings,

Wher

small kitchens, large bathrooms with oversize tubs, and walls of windows facing

the mountains. A few units have balconies, cathedral ceilings, and spiral stairs

e to Stay

that lead to sleeping lofts. This boutique golf resort shares the same two Tom

Fazio–designed golf courses as Loews Ventana Canyon Resort, and the third hole

of the Mountain Course is one of Tucson’s most photographed holes

6200 N. Clubhouse Lane, Tucson, AZ 85750. www.thelodgeatventanacanyon.com. 800/8285701 or 520/577-1400. Fax 520/577-4065. 50 units. Jan to early Apr $289–$599 1-bedroom suite, $459–$739 2-bedroom suite; early Apr to mid-May $189–$419 1-bedroom suite, $359–$619

2-bedroom suite; mid-May to early Sept $109–$175 1-bedroom suite, $189–$275 2-bedroom suite; early Sept to Dec $179–$399 1-bedroom suite, $349–$599 2-bedroom suite. Rates do not include $24 nightly service charge. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; snack bar; lounge; children’s programs; concierge; 2 acclaimed 18-hole golf courses; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; room service; full-service spa; 11 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (included in service fee).

Loews Ventana Canyon Resort

With two fabled desert-style

golf courses out the front door and a national forest trail out the back, this luxurious resort is a great choice for both golfers and hikers. The craggy peaks of the

Santa Catalina Mountains rise behind the property, and the distinctive architec-

ture and flagstone floors in the lobby lend a rugged but luxurious character.

Guest rooms have balconies that overlook city lights or mountains. Bathrooms

include tubs for two, and some rooms have fireplaces. In the high season, the

lobby lounge serves afternoon tea before becoming an evening piano bar. In addi-

tion to numerous other amenities, the resort has a nature trail with a waterfall

and lots to keep the kids busy, including a playground.

451

7000 N. Resort Dr., Tucson, AZ 85750. www.loewshotels.com/hotels/tucson. 800/234-5117 or 520/299-2020. Fax 520/299-6832. 398 units. Early Jan to late May $229–$369 double, from $529

suite; late May to early Sept $119–$229 double, from $289 suite; early Sept to early Jan from $159–$319 double, from $399 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $9. Pets accepted ($25 fee). Amenities: 4 restaurants, including Flying V Bar & Grill (review, p. 424); 2 lounges; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; 2 acclaimed 18-hole golf courses; health club; 2 Jacuzzis; 2 outdoor pools; room service; full-service spa; 3 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet ($11), minibar, MP3 docking station.

The Westin La Paloma Resort & Spa

If grand scale is what

you’re looking for, this is the place. Everything about the Westin La Paloma is

big—big portico, big lobby, big pool area—and from the resort’s sunset-pink mis-

sion-revival buildings, there are big views. While adults will appreciate the

resort’s tennis courts, exercise facilities, poolside lounge chairs, and Red Door

Spa by Elizabeth Arden, kids will love the 177-foot water slide. Guest rooms are

in 27 low-rise buildings surrounded by desert landscaping. Couples should opt

9 for the king rooms (ask for a mountain or golf-course view if you don’t mind

spending a bit more). French-inspired Southwestern cuisine is the specialty at

the on-site restaurant Janos (p. 425), which is one of Tucson’s finest restaurants.

The central location and extensive resort facilities make La Paloma one of Tuc-

son’s top choices.

3800 E. Sunrise Dr., Tucson, AZ 85718. www.westinlapalomaresort.com. 800/937-8461 or e to Stay

520/742-6000. Fax 520/577-5878. 487 units. Jan to late May $249–$479 double, from $445 suite; late May to mid-Sept $119–$169 double, from $245 suite; mid-Sept to Dec $209–$279 double, Wher from $375 suite. Rates do not include $20 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15. Pets accepted. Amenities: 5 restaurants, including Janos (review, p. 425); 2 lounges; children’s programs; concierge; 27-hole golf course; health club and full-service spa; 3 Jacuzzis; 5 pools (1 for adults only); room service; sauna; 10

UCSON

tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

T

EXPENSIVE

Embassy Suites Tucson–Paloma Village Situated at the intersec-

tion of Skyline Drive and Campbell Avenue, this hotel is surrounded by upscale

shopping centers and is close to some of Tucson’s best restaurants. Although the

suites here are small by Embassy Suites standards, you will still get two rooms,

which makes this hotel a good choice for families on a budget. Some suites have

mountain views, while others overlook the dense desert vegetation of a dry wash.

The pool area has limited mountain views. The full breakfast and afternoon

snacks and drinks can help you save on meal costs.

3110 E. Skyline Dr., Tucson, AZ 85718. www.tucsonpalomavillage.embassysuites.com. 800/

362-2779 or 520/352-4000. Fax 520/352-4001. 119 units. Jan–Apr $175–$260 double; May and Sept–Dec $150–$190 double; June–Aug $110–$160 double. Rates include full breakfast and evening social hour. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet ($10 per night).

Hacienda del Sol Guest Ranch Resort

With its colorful South-

west styling, historical character, mature cactus gardens, and ridge-top setting,

Hacienda del Sol is one of Tucson’s most distinctive getaways. The lodge’s his-

toric rooms, set around flower-filled courtyards, are evocative of old Mexican

inns and have a rustic and colorful character, with a decidedly artistic flair. If you 452

prefer more modern, spacious accommodations, ask for a suite; if you want loads

of space and the chance to stay where Katharine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy

may have stayed, ask for the Casita Grande. With large terraces for alfresco din-

ing, the Grill (p. 440) is one of Tucson’s best restaurants. During the day, you can lounge by the pool, get a spa treatment, or go for a horseback ride.

5501 N. Hacienda del Sol Rd., Tucson, AZ 85718. www.haciendadelsol.com. 800/728-6514 or 520/299-1501. 30 units. Early Jan to May $175–$280 double, $345–$355 suite, $415–$425 casita; June–Sept $79–$164 double, $200–$355 suite, $295–$400 casita; Oct to early Jan $99–$260 double, $330–$340 suite, $370–$495 casita. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants, including the Grill (review, p. 440); lounge; concierge; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool; room service; spa treatments. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Westward Look Resort

This reasonably priced resort has the des-

ert at its doorstep and is a favorite of mine. Built in 1912 as a private estate,

Westward Look is the oldest resort in Tucson, and although it doesn’t have a golf

course, it has horseback-riding stables, a nature trail, an excellent spa, and plenty of tennis courts. The large guest rooms have a Southwestern flavor and private 9

patios or balconies with city views. For the ultimate in Southwest luxury, opt for

T

one of the stargazer spa suites, which have outdoor hot tubs. GOLD, the resort’s

UCSON

main restaurant, utilizes herbs and vegetables grown on-site. If you aren’t a golfer but do enjoy resort amenities, this is one of your best bets in Tucson.

245 E. Ina Rd., Tucson, AZ 85704. www.westwardlook.com. 800/722-2500 or 520/297-1151.

Fax 520/297-9023. 244 units. Jan–Apr $179–$395 double; May $149–$199 double; June–Sept Wher

$99–$189 double; Oct–Dec $169–$295 double. Rates do not include $15 daily resort fee.

Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($75 fee).

e to Stay

Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; bikes; concierge; exercise room; 3 Jacuzzis; 3 pools; room service; full-service spa; 8 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

MODERATE

Windmill Suites at St. Philip’s Plaza Located on the edge of the foot-

hills in the St. Philip’s Plaza shopping center, this hotel offers both a great location and a good value. Best of all, you can walk to several restaurants and upscale

shops right across the parking lot. Bikes are available to guests, and out the

hotel’s back door is a paved pathway along the Rillito River (which, by the way, is

usually bone dry). Accommodations are spacious and have double vanities, wet

bars, and two TVs—basically, everything you need for a long, comfortable stay.

4250 N. Campbell Ave., Tucson, AZ 85718. www.windmillinns.com. 800/547-4747 or

520/577-0007. Fax 520/577-0045. 122 units. Oct–May $136–$195 double; June–Sept $114–$134

double. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room.

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Bikes; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

La Posada Lodge and Casitas Although this hotel fronts busy Oracle

Road, once you check in and park yourself on your patio overlooking the pool or

the grassy courtyard, you’ll forget all about the traffic out front. There are several different types of rooms here, but my favorites are the “Western”-style rooms,

which have a sort of retro south-of-the-border decor that includes headboards

453

painted with classic Mexican scenes. Casitas, which are the largest and most

expensive rooms here, have a similar decor. There are also some fun rooms with

a 1950s retro feel. The attractive rooms, pleasant pool area, and on-site Mexican

restaurant together make this an excellent and economical choice.

5900 N. Oracle Rd., Tucson, AZ 85704. www.laposadalodge.com. 800/810-2808 or 520/887-4800. Fax 520/293-7543. 72 units. $99–$169 double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

West Tucson, Oro Valley & Marana

VERY EXPENSIVE

JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa Set on the edge of Tucson

Mountain Park, on the far west side of Tucson, this sprawling resort is a favorite

of golfers, but also makes a good choice for families and outdoors enthusiasts.

9 Kids will love the great family-friendly pool area with its water slide and mean-

dering “lazy river,” while hikers and mountain bikers will appreciate the easy

access to miles of trails through the adjacent park. With its many restaurants, this resort is designed to be a destination, and you could very easily spend several

days just hanging out and never venturing out to see Tucson’s sights. Unfortu-

nately, low-flying fighter jets from nearby Davis-Monthan Air Force Base often

e to Stay

disturb the tranquillity of the resort. Then again, you can always retreat to the

plush bed in your room.

Wher 3800 W. Starr Pass Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85745. www.jwmarriottstarrpass.com. 888/527-8989 or 520/792-3500. Fax 520/792-3351. 575 units. Mid-Oct to May $249–$289 double, from $349 suite; June to mid-Oct $169 double, from $269 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room.

AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $10. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 lounges; UCSON

espresso bar; babysitting; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; exercise room; 27-hole golf T

course; 4 Jacuzzis; 3 outdoor pools; room service; full-service spa; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($13 per day).

The Ritz-Carlton, Dove Mountain

Set amid saguaro-covered hills

45 minutes northwest of Tucson, this luxury resort is in such a beautiful desert

setting that it feels as if it’s in a national park. Desert landscaping along the

resort’s entrance road even manages to hide Dove Mountain’s world-class golf

course. Grand in design and painted to blend in with the surrounding hills, the

resort conjures images of Wild West ranches, though cattle ranches were never

so luxurious. Guest rooms have balconies and large bathrooms with soaking tubs

and separate showers. With hiking trails, horseback riding, pools for both kids

and grown-ups, excellent restaurants, and a bar with Arizona’s largest whiskey

selection, the Ritz-Carlton is a world unto itself. Sure, it’s a bit of a drive from Tucson’s many attractions, but if you’re like me, you might just want to stay put.

15000 N. Secret Springs Dr., Marana, AZ 85658. www.ritzcarlton.com/dovemountain. 800/

542-8680 or 520/572-3000. Fax 520/572-3001. 253 units. Feb to late May $349–$539 double, $529–$999 suite; late May to mid-Sept $189–$249 double, $279–$899 suite; mid-Sept to Jan $289–$369 double, $409–$999 suite. Rates do not include $35 daily resort fee. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking (included in resort fee). Pets accepted ($125 fee). Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 lounges; bikes; children’s programs; concierge; executive-level rooms; 27-hole golf course; health club and spa; 4 Jacuzzis; 3 outdoor pools; 454

room service; 4 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

EXPENSIVE

Hilton Tucson El Conquistador Golf & Tennis Resort

The view

of the Santa Catalina Mountains rising behind El Conquistador makes this

northern foothills resort one of my favorites in Tucson. Sunsets are truly spec-

tacular and you should ask for a mountain-view room. Most guest rooms are built

around a central courtyard with manicured lawns and a large oasis of swimming

pools, one of which has a long water slide. The pool area and the nearby horse-

back-riding stables make the Hilton an excellent choice for families. All rooms

feature contemporary Western ranch-house furnishings, spacious marble bath-

rooms, and balconies or patios. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, ask for a

room in the Acacia area, which has an adults-only pool. Golf on the resort’s three

courses is the favorite pastime here.

10000 N. Oracle Rd., Tucson, AZ 85704. www.hiltonelconquistador.com. 800/325-7832 or 520/544-5000. Fax 520/544-1222. 428 units. Jan to late May $139–$239 double, from $279 suite; 9

late May to early Sept $99–$199 double, from $179 suite; early Sept to Dec $119–$209 double, from $239 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet TUCSON

parking $11. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 lounges; babysitting; seasonal children’s programs; concierge; 1 9-hole and two 18-hole golf courses; health club and spa; 3

Jacuzzis; 4 pools; room service; saunas; 31 tennis courts; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10 per day).

Wher

Omni Tucson National Resort

Golf is the name of the game at this

boutique resort, which, though a bit out of the resort mainstream, is looking good

e to Stay

after a major makeover a few years back. Most of the spacious rooms here cling

to the edges of the golf course, and with their warm contemporary styling and

balconies or patios, the rooms are some of the finest and most luxurious in town.

The golf course here is far more forgiving than those shared by the Lodge at Ven-

tana Canyon and Loews Ventana Canyon, which makes this a good choice for

golfers not up to the challenge of desert-style golf courses.

2727 W. Club Dr. (off Magee Rd.), Tucson, AZ 85742. www.omnihotels.com. 800/843-6664 or 520/297-2271. Fax 520/297-7544. 128 units. Jan–Apr $199–$479 double; May $119–$329 double; June–Aug $99–$329 double; Sept–Dec $139–$409 double. Rates do not include $14 daily resort fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($75

fee). Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 lounges; concierge; two 18-hole golf courses; health club and full-service spa; 2 Jacuzzis; 2 pools; room service; sauna; 4 tennis courts; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

MODERATE

Casa Tierra Adobe Bed & Breakfast Inn If you’ve come to Tucson to

be in the desert, then this secluded B&B west of Saguaro National Park is

another good choice. Built to look as if it has been here since Spanish colonial

days, the modern adobe home is surrounded by cactus and paloverde trees.

There are great views across a landscape full of saguaros to the mountains, and

sunsets are enough to take your breath away. Guest rooms, which have wrought-

iron sleigh beds, open onto a central courtyard surrounded by a covered seating

area. The two outdoor hot tubs make perfect stargazing spots, and there’s a tele-

scope on the property.

455

11155 W. Calle Pima, Tucson, AZ 85743. www.casatierratucson.com. 866/254-0006 or

520/578-3058. 4 units. Nov–Apr $165–$195 double, $215–$285 suite; May and Oct $150–$175

double, $195–$265 suite; June–Sept $135–$150 double, $165–$225 suite. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum stay. AE, DISC, MC, V. Closed June 15–Aug 16. Amenities: Concierge; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis. In room: A/C, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Paca de Paja Bed & Breakfast Although this inn has only one suite and

is 30 minutes west of Tucson, it’s a great choice for anyone who is coming to

Arizona to experience the desert. The inn is a very energy-efficient straw-bale

house, which means that the walls are constructed of straw that is then covered

with stucco. Owner/innkeeper Caroline Wilson also runs the inn on solar power

and harvests rainwater to irrigate her garden, which is designed to minimize

water usage. A nature trail on the property meanders through a dense cactus for-

est, and lots of other opportunities to explore the desert are within a 30-minute

drive. The guest suite has both a sitting room full of natural-history books and an

outdoor living area, which gives guests loads of room to enjoy. Birds and other

9 wildlife are plentiful.

16242 Pinacate Ave., Tucson, AZ 85736. www.pacadepaja.com. 888/326-4588 or 520/822-2065. 1 unit. Jan–Apr $160 double ($130 per night for 2 or more nights); May–Dec $150 double ($120 per night for 2 or more nights). Rates include full breakfast. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s room. No credit cards. Amenities: Bikes. In room: TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

e to Stay

INEXPENSIVE

Starr Pass Golf Suites Located 3 miles west of I-10, Starr Pass is the most

Wher economically priced golf resort in the city. It’s a condominium resort, however, which means you shouldn’t expect the sort of service you get at other resorts.

Accommodations are in privately owned Santa Fe–style casitas rented as two-

bedroom units, master suites, or standard hotel-style rooms. The small hotel-style

UCSON

rooms are a bit cramped and not nearly as lavishly appointed as the master suites,

T

which are more comfortable and have fireplaces, full kitchens, balconies, and a

Southwestern style throughout. The desert-style 27-hole golf course is one of the

best courses in the city. There are also hiking/biking trails on the property.

3645 W. Starr Pass Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85745. www.shellhospitality.com. 888/732-8041 or 520/

670-0500. 80 units. $70–$129 double, $90–$169 suite, $160–$298 casita. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; 27-hole golf course; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; 2 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, free Internet.

Near the Airport

MODERATE

Hyatt Place Tucson Airport Okay, I know the airport location is none too

appealing and that this is primarily a business-travelers’ hotel, but the Hyatt

Place is just so pretty and well-designed that you should consider it. The suites

all have separate sitting and sleeping areas, with 42-inch flat-panel TVs that can

be angled to either area. Unusual features include electronic self-service check-

in kiosks, continental (free) or hot (charge) breakfasts, and a tiny lounge area to

one side of the lobby. You can even get a light meal here if you don’t feel like going out to a restaurant for dinner. Another reason to stay here? It’s close to the Pima

Air & Space Museum and Mission San Xavier del Bac.

456

6885 S. Tucson Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85756. www.hyattplace.com. 800/492-8847 or 520/295-0405. Fax 520/295-9140. 120 units. $79–$249 double. Rates include continental breakfast.

Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free airport transfers; exercise room; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Outlying Areas

NORTH OF TUCSON

Across the Creek at Aravaipa Farms

Located 60 miles north of

Tucson on Aravaipa Creek, this B&B is a romantic getaway near one of the state’s most spectacular desert-wilderness areas. Because the inn is 3 miles up a gravel

road and then across a stream (high-clearance vehicles recommended), it’s a long

way to a restaurant. Consequently, innkeeper Carol Steele provides all meals.

Guests entertain themselves hiking in the Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness, bird-

watching, and cooling off in the creek. The casitas are eclectically decorated with

a mix of folk art and rustic Mexican furnishings, and have tile floors, stone-walled showers, and shady verandas. For a romantic weekend or a vigorous vacation, this

9

inn makes an ideal base. Carol also rents out a three-bedroom house that sleeps

T

up to six people.

UCSON

89395 E. Aravaipa Rd., Winkelman, AZ 85192. www.aravaipafarms.com. 520/357-6901. 6

units. Sept–May $345 double, $750 house; June–Aug $250 double, $700 house. Rates include all meals. 2-night minimum stay weekends and holidays. AE, DISC, MC, V. Children by prior arrangement. Amenities: Dining room; outdoor pool. In room: Fridge, no phone.

Wher

SOUTH OF TUCSON

e to Stay

Casino del Sol Resort Spa and Conference Center I’m not generally

a fan of casino hotels. However, this 10-story hotel on the western outskirts of the Tucson area is so conveniently placed for visiting some of the city’s top attractions that you may want to consider it for your stay. With a lobby design inspired by the

nearby Mission San Xavier del Bac and an expansive “beach”-style swimming pool

shaded by palm trees, this hotel has almost as much to offer as many of the foothills resorts. Guest rooms are spacious and modern, and from the higher floors, there

are good views over the desert. The restaurants here are surprisingly good. Spend

some time in the casino, and you might even win enough to pay for your room.

5655 W. Valencia Rd., Tucson, AZ 85757. www.solcasinos.com. 800/344-9435. 215 units.

$119–$249 double, $319–$429 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 lounges; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Chuparosa Inn Tucked amid the shady trees of Madera Canyon, this rus-

tic inn is built of stone and wood, and, with its tower at the front entrance, looks a bit like a miniature castle or a chalet. In other words, this place is beautiful and is a delightful place to stay if you have come up the canyon to do some bird-watching, which is the objective of many of the inn’s guests. By the way, the inn’s

name is a Spanish term for “hummingbirds,” and if you visit in the warmer

months, you’re likely to see plenty of the colorful little birds (14 species have

been spotted here).

1300 W. Madera Canyon Rd., Madera Canyon, AZ 85614. www.chuparosainn.com. 520/393-

7370. 4 units. $150 double; $175–$200 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. 2-night 457

minimum on weekends, holidays, and Mar–May. MC, V. Children 12 and over are welcome.

In room: A/C, hair dryer, kitchenette, no phone.

Santa Rita Lodge Nature Resort This lodge in the shady depths of

Madera Canyon is used primarily by bird-watchers and hikers, and although the

rooms are not as nice as those at the Chuparosa Inn, the birding is as good as it

gets. The rooms and cabins are large, comfortable, and simply furnished, and all

have kitchenettes in which you can do a bit of light cooking. So, because the

nearest restaurants are 13 miles away, I recommend bringing food for your stay.

1218 S. Madera Canyon Rd., Madera Canyon, AZ 85614. www.santaritalodge.com. 520/625-8746. Fax 520/625-1956. 14 units. $105–$125 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night). In room: A/C, TV/DVD, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Spa Resorts

Canyon Ranch Health Resort

Canyon Ranch, one of America’s pre-

mier health spas, offers the sort of complete spa experience that’s available at only 9 a handful of places around the country (and then only if you have both money and

fat to burn). On staff are doctors, nurses, life-management therapists, exercise

physiologists, massage therapists, and tennis and golf pros. Services offered

include health and fitness assessments; health, nutrition, exercise, and stress-

management evaluations; fitness classes; hiking and biking excursions; massage

therapy; therapeutic body treatments; facials, manicures, pedicures, and haircuts;

e to Stay

makeup consultations; cooking demonstrations; and art classes. Guests stay in a

variety of spacious and very comfortable Southwestern-style accommodations.

Wher Three gourmet, low-calorie meals are served daily. If you’re serious about getting healthy or leading a more fulfilled life, this is your place in the sun.

8600 E. Rockcliff Rd., Tucson, AZ 85750. www.canyonranch.com. 800/742-9000 or 520/749-9000. Fax 520/239-8535. 185 units. Oct to mid-June 4-night packages from $4,070 double; mid-UCSONT

June to mid-Sept 4-night packages from $2,945 double. Rates include all meals, classes, and allowance for a variety of spa and wellness services. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50

fee). No children 13 or under (with exception of infants in the care of personal nannies). Amenities: 2 dining rooms; free airport transfers; bikes; concierge; 9 exercise rooms; 8 Jacuzzis; 3

outdoor pools and 11,000-sq.-ft. aquatic center; room service; saunas; spa complex; 6 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, fridge, kitchenette (some rooms), MP3

docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Miraval Arizona

Miraval emphasizes stress management, self-discov-

ery, and relaxation. To this end, activities at the all-inclusive resort include meditation, yoga, art classes, and a variety of confidence-building activities, including a challenger course with a zip line; more active types can go hiking, mountain biking, and rock climbing. There’s a wide range of spa offerings such as massages,

wraps, scrubs, facials, manicures, and pedicures, and many are unique to Miraval.

The spa also offers a variety of lifestyle-management workshops, fitness/nutrition

consultations, exercise classes, and an “equine experience” program. The spa’s

main pool is a gorgeous three-tiered leisure pool surrounded by waterfalls and

desert landscaping. Guest rooms, many of which have views of the Santa Catalina

Mountains, are done up in a Southwestern style. Miraval has LEED (Leadership

in Energy and Environmental Design)-certified sustainable rooms, and its dining

room uses local and organic ingredients as much as possible.

458

5000 E. Via Estancia Miraval, Tucson, AZ 85739. www.miravalresorts.com. 800/232-3969. Fax 520/825-5163. 116 units. From $850 double. Rates do not include 18.5% service charge. Rates include all meals, classes, and a $130 per-person per-day credit for spa service, a round of golf, or private session. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. No children. Amenities: Restaurant; snack bar; lounge; free airport transfers; bikes; concierge; executive-level rooms; superbly equipped exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; 2 pools; room service; one of the most extensive spas in Arizona; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Guest Ranches

Tanque Verde Ranch

Want to spend long days in the saddle but don’t

want to give up resort luxuries? Then Tanque Verde Ranch, which was founded

in 1868 and still has some of its original buildings, is for you. This is far and away the most luxurious guest ranch in Tucson. With Saguaro National Park and the

Coronado National Forest bordering the ranch, there’s plenty of room for horse-

back riding. There are also nature trails and a nature center, and at the end of the day, the spa provides ample opportunities to recover from too many hours in the

saddle. Guest rooms are spacious and comfortable, with fireplaces and patios in

9

many units. Some of the large casitas are among the most luxurious accommoda-

tions in the state. The dining room, which overlooks the Rincon Mountains, sets

TUCSON

impressive buffets.

14301 E. Speedway Blvd., Tucson, AZ 85748. www.tanqueverderanch.com. 800/234-3833 or 520/296-6275. Fax 520/721-9426. 76 units. $390–$790 double. Rates include all meals and ranch activities. Children 3 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; free airport transfers w/4-night stay; babysitting; bikes; children’s pro-Wher

grams; exercise room and access to nearby health club; 2 Jacuzzis; 2 pools (indoor and outdoor); small spa; 5 tennis courts. In room: A/C, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

e to Stay

White Stallion Ranch Set on 3,000 acres of desert, the White Stallion

Ranch is perfect for those who crave wide-open spaces. Operated since 1965 by

the True family, this spread has a more authentic feel than any other guest ranch

in the area. A variety of horseback rides are offered, and a petting zoo keeps kids

entertained. There are also nature trails, guided nature walks and hikes, hayrides,

weekly rodeos, and team cattle penning. Guest rooms vary considerably in size

and comfort, from tiny, small single units to deluxe two-bedroom suites. Reno-

vated rooms are worth requesting.

9251 W. Twin Peaks Rd., Tucson, AZ 85743. www.whitestallion.com. 888/977-2624 or

520/297-0252. Fax 520/744-2786. 42 units. Early Oct to mid-Dec, early Jan to mid-Feb, and May to mid-June $340–$416 double, $418–$506 suite; mid-Dec to early Jan and mid-Feb to Apr $400–$508 double, $514–$618 suite; June to early Oct $272–$332 double, $338–$402 suite.

Rates do not include 15% service charge. Rates include all meals, ranch activities, and horseback rides. 2- to 6-night minimum stay. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; free airport transfers with minimum 4-night stay; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool; sauna; tennis court. In room: A/C, fridge, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

459

SOUTHERN

ARIZONA

10

Although southern Arizona has its share of prickly pears

and saguaros, much of this region has more in common

with the Texas plains than it does with the Sonoran Des-

ert. In the southeastern corner of the state, mile-high

grasslands, punctuated by forested mountain ranges,

have long supported vast cattle ranches. It was here that some of Ameri-

ca’s most legendary Western history took place—Wyatt Earp and the

Clantons shot it out at Tombstone’s O.K. Corral, Doc Holliday played his

cards, and Cochise and Geronimo staged the last Indian rebellions.

Long before the prospectors and outlaws arrived, this region had gained historical

importance as the first part of the Southwest explored by the Spanish. As early as

1540, a Spanish expedition led by Francisco Vásquez de Coronado passed

through this region

Nearly 150 years later, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino founded a string of

Jesuit missions across the region. Two of the missions he founded—San Xavier

del Bac (p. 404), 9 miles south of present-day Tucson, and San José de Tumacá- 10

cori, south of Tubac (see the listing for Tumacácori National Historical Park,

later in the chapter)—still stand.

SOUTHERN

More than 450 years after Coronado marched through this region, the valley

of the San Pedro River is undergoing something of a population explosion, espe-

cially in the city of Sierra Vista, where retirement communities sprawl across the

landscape. Nearby, in the once nearly abandoned copper-mining town of Bisbee,

urban refugees and artists have taken up residence and opened numerous galler-

ARIZONA

ies and B&Bs, making this one of the most interesting small towns in the state.

The combination of low deserts, high plains, and even higher mountains has

given this region a fascinating diversity of landscapes. Giant saguaros cover the

slopes of the Sonoran Desert throughout much of southern Arizona, and in the

western parts of this region, organ pipe cacti reach the northern limit of their

Intr

range. In the cool mountains, cacti give way to pines, and passing clouds bring

oduction

snow and rain. Narrow canyons and broad valleys, fed by the rain and snowmelt,

provide habitat for hundreds of species of birds and other wildlife. For many

birds usually found only south of the border, this is the northernmost limit of

their range. Consequently, southeastern Arizona has become one of the nation’s

most important bird-watching spots.

The region’s mild climate has also given rise to a small wine industry. Tour-

ing the handful of wineries and vineyards in southeastern Arizona is a favorite

weekend excursion for residents of Tucson and Phoenix.

previous page: Kartchner Caverns State Park®.

461

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN SOUTHERN ARIZONA

Birding the borderlands: Southern Arizona bird-watchers flock here to spot

elegant trogons, vermilion flycatchers, magnificent hummingbirds, and many

other species. See p. 468.

Wine touring: There are quite a few very good wineries in Arizona, and many

of these are located in the southeastern part of the state, especially near

Sonoita and Willcox. See p. 476.

Getting in touch with your inner outlaw: In Tombstone, “the town too

tough to die,” the famous shootout at the OK Corral is reenacted daily. See

p. 487.

Exploring the eclectic shops of Bisbee: With historic buildings filled with

art galleries, antiques stores, and unusual boutiques, Bisbee, a former copper-

mining town, is a fascinating place to spend a day shopping. See p. 491.

Going underground at Kartchner Caverns State Park: The stalactites, sta-

lagmites, soda straws, and other formations are still growing in this impressive

system of caverns. See p. 480.

ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL

10 MONUMENT

135 miles S of Phoenix; 140 miles W of Tucson; 185 miles SE of Yuma

Located roughly midway between

Yuma and Tucson, Organ Pipe Cactus

National Monument is a preserve for

the rare cactus for which the monu-

ment is named. The organ pipe cactus

ravel Experiences

resembles the saguaro cactus in many

ways, but instead of forming a single

main trunk, organ pipes have many

trunks, some 20 feet tall, that resem-

The Best T ble—you guessed it—organ pipes.

This is a rugged region with few

towns or services. To the west lie the

inaccessible Cabeza Prieta National

RIZONA

Wildlife Refuge and the Barry M.

A

Goldwater Air Force Range (a bombing

range), and to the east is the large

Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation.

The only motels in the area are in the

OUTHERN

small town of Ajo, a former company

S

town that was built to house copper-

mine workers. The downtown plaza,

with its tall palm trees, covered walk- Organ pipe cactus can have trunks as high as ways, and arches, has the look and feel 20 feet.

of a Mexican town square. Be sure to

gas up your car before leaving Ajo.

462

O

T

16

17

owie

CORONAD

NATIONAL

FORES

15

To Portal

Prieta

B

Flagstaff

Cabezas

181

80

ouglas

Arizona

10

s

a

D

Agua

rn

ARIZONA

Do

Tucson Area of detail

Phoenix

Sunizon

191

186

s

80

Southe

Elfrida

McNeal

Pearce

Sunsite

14

leeson

191

G

Cochise

Bisbee

O

10

T

O

T

Willcox

s

12

d

13

NATIONAL FORES

Tombstone

e

CORONAD

92

Spring Sit

CORONAD NATIONAL FORES

. Glenn

Palominas

MEXICO

90

Mt

avid

Herefor

Murray Clovis

D

11

80

St.

k

92

10

Sierra Vista

Cruz

Huachuca City

9

8

Fairban

Miller Peak

90

anta Terrenate

t

Benson

O L

S de

For

a

83

San Pedro

River

82

Huachuca

NATIONA FOREST

Presidio

Elgin

Peak

CORONAD

10

L

7

Huachuc

O L

PARK

SAGUARO

CORONADO

NATIONAL

FOREST

NATIONA

83

NATIONA FOREST

O

CORONAD

L

82

Patagonia

Wrightson

1

Mt.

Sonoita

6

FOREST

5

Valley

CORONAD NATIONA

Lake Park

Nogales

15 mi

Tucson

Nogales

r e v i R

2

z

Green

Patagonia

u

State

r C a t

19

n a

4

15 km

10

S

19

Tubac

To Phoenix

3

Tumacacori

L

Amado

O L

86

To Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

Arivaca

To Arivaca, Sasabe and Buenos Aires Nat’l Wildlife Refuge

FOREST

0

0

SAGUARO NATIONA PARK

Junction

CORONAD NATIONA

12

Creek

15

Sky

State

3

4

16

Whipple 2

State

8

14

7

13 National

10 National Site

6

9

17

National

Caverns

Lake

Riparian Conservation

Park

Park

Foundation

National

Ranch

Stronghold

c

Park

1

Canyon

c

c

Graham

Lemmon

5

11

Presidio

Lawrence

Country

Museum

Monument

Memorial Bowie Histori

Observatory

State

International Observatory

Center

Park

Preserve

Preserve Pedro National Area

Museum

Histori

Histori

Amerind Chiricahua Cochise Coronado Fort Fred Kartchner Mount Mount Patagonia Patagonia-Sonoita Ramsey San Slaughter Tubac Tumacacori Wine 463

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Tucson, take Ariz. 86 west to Why and turn south on

Ariz. 85. From Yuma, take I-8 east to Gila Bend and drive south on Ariz. 85.

FEES The park entry fee is $8 per car.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information, contact Organ Pipe Cactus

National Monument ( 520/387-6849; www.nps.gov/orpi). The Kris

Eggle Visitor Center is open daily from 8am to 5pm, although the park itself

is open 24 hours a day. The visitor center is closed Thanksgiving and

Christmas.

Exploring the Monument

Two well-graded gravel roads lead through different sections of this large national

monument. For the best scenery in the park, follow Ajo Mountain Drive, a

21-mile one-way loop that meanders through the rugged foothills of the Ajo

Mountains. Along this route, you can get out and hike the Arch Canyon, Estes

Canyon, or Bull Pasture trails. Alternatively, if you are short on time, take Puerto Blanco Drive, a 5-mile route leading to the Pinkley Peak picnic area. Guides

available at the park’s visitor center explain natural features of the landscape

along both drives. In the winter, there are guided van tours of Ajo Mountain

Drive, as well as guided hikes. Much of the monument is now closed to the pub-

10 lic due to safety concerns about the use of this area by illegal immigrants crossing the border from Mexico. Be sure to check with the national monument before

planning any hikes.

Where to Stay

There are two campgrounds within the park. Campsites are $8 in primitive

Alamo Campground and $12 in the more developed Twin Peaks Camp-

ground. The nearest lodgings are in Ajo, with several old and very basic motels as well as a B&B. There are also plenty of budget chain motels in the town of Gila Bend, 70 miles north of the monument.

Guest House Inn Bed & Breakfast Built in 1925 as a guesthouse for min-

ing executives, this B&B has attractive gardens in the front yard, a mesquite

thicket off to one side, and a modern Southwestern feel to its interior decor.

Guest rooms are simply furnished with reproduction antique and Southwestern

furnishings. There are sunrooms on both the north and the south sides of the

house.

gan Pipe Cactus National Monument

Or 700 W. Guest House Rd., Ajo, AZ 85321. www.guesthouseinn.biz. 520/387-6133. 4 units. $89

double. Rates include full breakfast. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s room. MC, V.

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Side Trips

RIZONA

If you’re on your way from Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument to Tucson via

A

Ariz. 86, you will pass through the large Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation. To

learn more about this tribe, stop at the Tohono O’odham Nation Cultural

Center & Museum, Fresnal Canyon Road, Topawa ( 520/383-0201; www.

tonation-nsn.gov/cultural_center_museum.aspx), south of the community of

OUTHERNS

Sells. Although displays are designed primarily for tribal members, there is also

plenty to interest anyone not from the reservation. A gift shop sells baskets,

464

native wild foods, and other interesting gift items. The museum is open Monday

through Saturday from 10am to 4pm; admission is free. To find the museum,

drive 9 miles south from Sells on Indian Rte. 19 and watch for a water tower.

Turn left here onto Fresnal Canyon Road and drive 1⁄4 mile.

Farther east on Ariz. 86, be sure to stop at Coyote Store, Ariz. 86, Milepost 140 ( 520/383-5555), where you can shop for Tohono O’odham baskets, as

well as silver jewelry. You’ll find this trading post east of the turnoff for Kitt Peak National Observatory (p. 471).

WHERE TO EAT

Desert Rain Café NATIVE AMERICAN Despite the many Indian reser-

vations in Arizona, there are very few restaurants in the state that serve traditional Native American meals. This little cafe an hour west of Tucson on the Tohono

O’odham reservation is one of the few I’ve found, and it is well worth a stop. The

cafe serves simple dishes made with traditional ingredients such as tepary beans,

cholla cactus buds, and prickly-pear syrup. If you happen to be passing through

the area, Desert Rain should not be missed. A small gallery adjacent to the cafe

sells traditional Tohono O’odham crafts and cooking ingredients.

Tohono Plaza, Main St. (Indian Rte. 19), Sells. www.desertraincafe.com. 520/383-4918. MC, V. Main courses $5–$8. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm.

TUBAC & BUENOS AIRES

10

NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

SOUTHERN

45 miles S of Tucson; 21 miles N of Nogales; 84 miles W of Sierra Vista

Located in the fertile valley of the Santa Cruz River 45 miles south of Tucson,

Tubac is one of Arizona’s largest arts communities and home to a large retirement

community. Because the town’s old buildings also house more than 80 shops sell-

A

ing fine arts, unusual gifts, and souvenirs, Tubac is also a popular shopping des-

RIZONA

tination. But keep in mind that many of the local artists leave town during the

summer and local shops tend to close on weekdays. During the busy season from

October to May, however, shops are open daily.

In 1691, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino established Tumacácori as one of

Tubac & Buenos Air

the first Spanish missions in what would eventually become Arizona. At that

time, Tubac was a Pima Indian village, but by the 1730s, the Spanish had begun

settling here in the region they called Pimeria Alta. After a Pima uprising in 1751, Spanish forces were sent into the area to protect the settlers, and in 1752 Tubac

became a presidio (fort).

Human habitation of the region dates far back into prehistory. Archaeolo-

gists have found evidence that there have been people living along the Santa

es National W

Cruz River for nearly 10,000 years. The Hohokam lived in the area from about

a.d. 300 until their mysterious disappearance around 1500, and when the Span-

ish arrived some 200 years later, they found the Pima people inhabiting this

region.

ildlife Refuge

Tubac’s other claim to fame is as the site from which Juan Bautista de Anza

III, the second commander of the presidio, set out in 1775 to find an overland

route to California. De Anza led 240 settlers and more than 1,000 head of cattle

on this grueling expedition, and when the group finally reached the coast of Cali-

fornia, they founded the settlement of San Francisco. A year after de Anza’s

465

journey to the Pacific, the garrison was moved from Tubac to Tucson, and, with

no protection from marauding Apaches, Tubac’s settlers soon moved away from

the area. Soldiers were once again stationed here beginning in 1787, but lack of

funds later caused the closure of the presidio when, in 1821, Mexican indepen-

dence brought Tubac under a new flag. It was not until this region became U.S.

territory that settlers returned, and by 1860, Tubac was the largest town in

Arizona.

Essentials

GETTING THERE The Santa Cruz Valley towns of Amado, Tubac, and Tumacá-

cori are all due south of Tucson on I-19.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information on Tubac and Tumacácori, contact the

Tubac Chamber of Commerce, 2 Tubac Rd. ( 520/398-2704; www.

tubacaz.com). Early September to mid-May, the visitor center is open Mon-

day through Friday from 10am to 4pm; mid-May to early September, it’s

open Monday through Friday from 10am to 1pm.

SPECIAL EVENTS Each year in February, artists from all over the country par-

ticipate in the Tubac Festival of the Arts. On the third weekend in Octo-

ber, the Anza Days Celebration commemorates Capt. Juan Bautista de

Anza’s 1775 westward trek that led to the founding of San Francisco.

10 Exploring the Tubac Area

Tubac Center of the Arts ART MUSEUM This Spanish colonial build-

ing serves as Tubac’s center for cultural activities. Throughout the season, the

center features workshops, traveling exhibitions, juried shows, an annual crafts

show, and theater and music performances. The quality of the art at these shows

is generally better than what’s found in most of the surrounding stores. There is

ildlife Refuge

also a good little gift shop here.

9 Plaza Rd. www.tubacarts.org. 520/398-2371. Admission by donation. Mon–Sat 10am–

4:30pm; Sun 1–4:30pm. Closed major holidays.

Tubac Presidio State Historic Park HISTORIC SITE Although little

remains of the old presidio (fort) other than buried foundation walls, this small

es National W

park does a good job of presenting the region’s Spanish colonial history. Park

exhibits focus on the Spanish soldiers, Native Americans, religion, and contem-

porary Hispanic culture in southern Arizona. Also on the grounds is the old

Tubac School, built in 1885 and the oldest schoolhouse in the state.

Tubac & Buenos Air

Going Nuts in Sahuarita

As you drive south from Tucson to Tubac,

www.pecanstore.com), you can go

you pass through the town of Sahuarita,

“nuts” stocking up on everything from

which is home to one of the largest

fresh pecans to chocolate toffee pecans

RIZONA A

pecan farms in the country. More than

to mesquite-spiced pecans (my personal

6,000 acres surrounding Sahuarita are

favorite). The store is open Monday

planted with pecan trees. At the Pecan

through Saturday from 9am to 5pm and

Store, 1625 E. Sahuarita Rd., Sahuarita

Sunday from 10am to 4pm.

OUTHERN

( 800/327-3226 or 520/791-2062;

S

466

1 Burruel St. www.azstateparks.com. 520/398-2252. Admission $4 adults, $2 children 7–13, free for children 6 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Christmas.

Tumacácori National Historical Park HISTORIC SITE Founded in

1691 by Jesuit missionary and explorer Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, San José

de Tumacácori mission was one of the first Anglo settlements in what is today

Arizona. Father Kino’s mission was to convert the Pima Indians, and for the first

60 years, the mission was successful. However, in 1751, during the Pima Revolt,

the mission was destroyed. For the next 70 years, this mission struggled to sur-

vive, but during the 1820s, an adobe mission church was constructed. Much of

the old adobe mission church still stands, and the Spanish architectural influ-

ences can readily be seen. A small museum contains exhibits on mission life and

the history of the region. Between October and April, Native American and His-

panic craftspeople give demonstrations of indigenous crafts. January through

March, there are also tours to the nearby mission ruins of Calabazas and Gue-

vavi. These tours are by reservation and cost $20 per person. La Fiesta de

Tumacácori, a celebration of Indian, Hispanic, and Anglo cultures, is held the first weekend of December.

1891 E. Frontage Rd. www.nps.gov/tuma. 520/398-2341. Admission $3 adults, free for children 15 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take I-19 to exit 29; Tumacácori is 3 miles south of Tubac.

Exploring Buenos Aires National

10

Wildlife Refuge

SOUTHERN

If you’re a bird-watcher, you’ll definitely want to make the trip to Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge ( 520/823-4251; www.fws.gov/southwest/

refuges/arizona/buenosaires/index.html), about 28 miles from Tubac. To get here,

head north from Tubac on I-19 to Arivaca Junction, and then drive west on a wind-

A

ing two-lane road. The refuge begins just outside the small community of Arivaca.

RIZONA

Tubac & Buenos Air

es National W

ildlife Refuge

Tumacácori National Historical Park.

Bird-watchers shouldn’t miss Buenos Aires

National Wildlife Refuge.

467

The Ruby Road

If you enjoy scenic drives and don’t mind

reaching picturesque Peña Blanca Lake,

gravel roads, you won’t want to pass up

where the pavement resumes. Along the

the opportunity to drive the Ruby Road

way, you’ll pass the privately owned

from Arivaca through Coronado National

ghost town of Ruby ( 520/744-4471),

Forest to Peña Blanca Lake and Nogales.

which is open to the public Thursday

This road winds its way through the

through Sunday from dawn to dusk

mountains just north of the Mexican

(admission $12). Call first to make sure

border, passing Arivaca Lake before

the caretaker is available.

Your first stop should be Arivaca Cienega, a quarter of a mile east of Ari-

vaca. Cienega is Spanish for “marsh,” and that is exactly what you’ll find here. A boardwalk leads across this marsh, which is fed by seven springs that provide

year-round water and consequently attract a wide variety of bird life. Vermilion

flycatchers are quite common here, and this is one of the few places in the

United States where you can see a gray hawk. Other good birding spots within

the refuge include Arivaca Creek, 2 miles west of Arivaca, and Aguirre Lake, a seasonal lake a half mile north of the refuge headquarters and visitor center,

which is off Ariz. 286 north of Sasabe.

10

The visitor center is a good place to spot one of the refuge’s rarest birds,

the masked bobwhite quail. Other birds you might spot outside the visitor center

include Bendire’s thrashers, Chihuahuan ravens, canyon towhees, and green-

tailed towhees. The visitor center is open daily from 7:30am to 4pm (closed New

Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and summer weekends).

Other wildlife in the refuge includes pronghorn antelopes, javelinas, coati-

mundis, white-tailed deer, mule deer, and coyotes. Guided birding walks are

ildlife Refuge

offered Saturday mornings at 8am from November through April. During these

same months, on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month, there are 5-mile

guided hikes in Brown Canyon. Reservations are required for these latter hikes.

There is primitive camping at nearly 100 designated spots along rough gravel roads.

Look for the brown campsite signs along the road, and bring your own water.

es National W

These roads also offer good mountain biking. If you’re looking for a strenu-

ous hike, try the Mustang Trail, which has its trailhead 2 miles west of Arivaca.

The trail climbs from Arivaca Creek into the surrounding dry hills and makes for

a 5-mile round-trip hike.

Outdoor Activities

The 8-mile de Anza Trail, which passes through forests and grasslands and fol-Tubac & Buenos Air

lows the Santa Cruz River for much of its route, links Tubac with Tumacácori.

This trail is part of the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail, which stretches from Nogales to San Francisco and commemorates the overland journey

of the Spanish captain who, in 1775 and 1776, led a small band of colonists over-

RIZONA A land to California. These settlers founded what is now the city of San Francisco.

Today, bird-watching is the most popular activity along the trail. History buffs will also get to see an excavation of part of the Spanish colonial settlement of Tubac.

The most convenient trailhead is beside Tubac Presidio State Historic Park.

OUTHERN

If golf is more your speed, you can play a round at the Tubac Golf Resort

S

& Spa ( 520/398-2021; www.tubacgolfresort.com), just north of Tubac off 468

East Frontage Road. Greens fees range from $89 to $99 in the winter ($79–$89

after 12:30pm; $45 after 2pm).

Where to Eat

IN TUBAC & TUMACÁCORI

If you need a latte while you’re in town, stop by the Tubac Deli & Coffee Co., 6 Plaza Rd. ( 520/398-3330; www.tubacdeli.com).

Elvira’s Restaurant MEXICAN This Mexican restaurant, its ceiling deco-

rated with hundreds of unusual glass “teardrop” ornaments, is known for its com-

plex and flavorful mole dishes and the unusual flank-steak molcajete that is served in a stone dish traditionally used for grinding guacamole. The margaritas here are

notoriously strong.

2221 E. Frontage Rd., Ste. A101. www.elvirasrestaurant.com. 520/398-9421. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–

10pm; Sun 11am–3pm.

Stables Ranch Grille

NEW AMERICAN With big wood beams over-

head and a 200-year-old floor that was long ago warn smooth by horses hooves,

this restaurant really is in an old stable that dates to the days when the Spanish

still controlled this region. Today, however, these stables serve some of the best

food in southern Arizona. While you’re likely to encounter vegetarian dishes as

well as unusual fish dishes such as cornmeal-crusted walleye pike, the Stables 10

are known for their meat dishes. The pork porterhouse is a particular standout,

but lamb chops and several steaks are also on the menu. The green-chili stew,

SOUTHERN

made with cornmeal dumplings, is another winner. The adjoining bar has bar-

stools made from old saddles.

At Tubac Golf Resort & Spa, 1 Otero Rd. www.tubacgolfresort.com. 520/398-2678. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$30 lunch, $12–$32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily A

6:30am–10pm.

RIZONA

Wisdom’s Cafe MEXICAN Located between Tubac and Tumacácori

(look for the giant chicken statues out front), this roadside diner is a Santa Cruz

Valley institution, in business since 1944. With a cement floor and walls hung

with old cowboy stuff, it feels a bit like a cross between a cave and an old barn.

Tubac & Buenos Air

The menu is short but includes some twists on standard Mexican fare, including

tostadas, tacos, and enchiladas made with turkey. Save room for the huge fruit

burritos, which are basically Mexican fruit pies.

1931 E. Frontage Rd., Tumacácori. www.wisdomscafe.com. 520/398-2397. Reservations not necessary. Main courses $5.25–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm and 5–8pm.

es National W

Shopping

While tourist brochures like to tout Tubac as an artists’ community, the town is

more of a Southwest souvenir mecca. There are a few genuine art galleries here,

but you have to look hard to find the real gems.

Some of the better fine art in the area is at the Karin Newby Gallery +

ildlife Refuge

Sculpture Garden, Mercado de Baca, 15 Tubac Rd. ( 888/398-9662 or

520/398-9662; www.karinnewbygallery.com), which is the biggest gallery in

Tubac and which also has a large sculpture garden. For traditional Western art,

some by members of the prestigious Cowboy Artists of America, visit Big Horn

Galleries, 37 Tubac Rd. ( 520/398-9209; www.bighorngalleries.com). You’ll 469

find a wide range of contemporary art

at Cobalt Fine Arts Gallery, 5

Camino Otero ( 520/398-1200;

www.cobaltfinearts.com). At Tohono

Village Trading, 10 Camino Otero

( 520/398-2223), a gallery oper-

ated by the Tohono O’odham tribe,

there’s a great selection of Native

American baskets, as well as pottery,

jewelry, and other artworks. In the

courtyard of this gallery, there’s a tra-

ditional Tohono O’odham shade Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Company.

house.

If you want to take the flavor of the area home, stop in at the Santa

Cruz Chili & Spice Company , 1868 E. Frontage Rd. ( 520/398-2591;

STARRY, STARRY nights

Southern Arizona’s clear skies and the absence of lights in the surrounding desert

10 make the night sky here as brilliant as anywhere on earth. Consequently, southern Arizona has come to be known as the Astronomy Capital of the World.

Many observatories are open to the

$60, last 4 to 5 hours, and include a

public, but you’ll need to make tour

light dinner. Allow 90 minutes to drive

reservations well in advance. In addition

to the center from midtown Tucson.

to the ones listed below, UA Science

The

Fred Lawrence Whipple

Flandrau (p. 399) in Tucson offers public

Observatory ( 520/879-4407; www.

ildlife Refuge

viewings, and up north in Flagstaff,

cfa.harvard.edu/facilities/flwo), atop

there are public viewing programs at the

8,550-foot Mount Hopkins, is the largest

Lowell Observatory (p. 280). Flagstaff

observatory operated by the Smithson-

is also home to the Shooting Star Inn,

ian Astrophysical Observatory. Six-hour

27948 N. Shooting Star Lane, Flagstaff,

tours of the observatory are offered

es National W

AZ 86001 ( 928/606-8070; www.

mid-March through November on Mon-

shootingstarinn.com), an off-the-grid inn

day, Wednesday, and Friday, and cost

where you can gaze through the owner’s

$7 for adults, $2.50 for children 6 to 12;

impressive array of telescopes (p. 290).

no children 5 or under are allowed.

The

Mount Lemmon Sky Center

Reservations are required and should be

( 520/626-8122; http://skycenter.

made 4 to 6 weeks in advance. No food

arizona.edu), 27 miles from Tucson near is available here, so bring a picnic lunch.

Tubac & Buenos Air

the summit of Mount Lemmon, is affili-

The observatory’s visitor center (Mon–Fri

ated with the University of Arizona and

8:30am–4:30pm; closed federal holi-

is the most convenient place to attend a

days) is reached by taking I-19 south

night-sky viewing program. This facility

from Tucson to the Canoa exit (exit 56);

RIZONA A

has a 32-inch telescope, and celestial

go under the freeway and then turn

objects you’ll see during one of these

right on E. Frontage Road and drive

programs include binary stars, star clus-

south 3 miles, and turn left on Elephant

ters, nebulae, galaxies, planets, and the

Head Road and then right on Mount

OUTHERN

moon. These SkyNights programs cost

Hopkins Road.

S

470

www.santacruzchili.com). At this combination store and packing plant near

Tumacácori National Historical Park, you’ll find all things hot (chilies, hot sauces, salsas) arranged on the shelves, along with an amazing assortment of spices. The

shop is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm and Saturday from 10am

to 5pm (until 3pm in summer).

Where to Stay

IN AMADO

Amado Territory Inn This modern inn, just off I-19 at the crossroads of

Amado, is built in the territorial style and has a bit of the feel of an old Arizona ranch house. Guest rooms are outfitted in a mix of Mexican rustic furnishings

and reproduction antiques, much like homes would have been furnished in Ari-

zona more than 100 years ago. Rooms on the second floor feature balconies with

views across the farm fields of the Santa Cruz Valley, while those on the ground

floor have patios.

STARRY, STARRY nights

Located in the Quinlan Mountains

but do not include viewing through the

atop 6,875-foot Kitt Peak, Kitt Peak

observatory’s telescopes. Tours are

National Observatory ( 520/318-

arranged through Eastern Arizona

10

8726; www.noao.edu/kpno) is the larg-

College’s Discovery Park Campus,

S

est and most famous astronomical

1651 W. Discovery Park Blvd., Safford

OUTHERN

observatory in the region and is the site

( 928/428-6260; www.eac.edu/

of the world’s largest collection of opti-

discoverypark). The tours operate from

cal telescopes. This is the region’s only

May through October and cost $40

major observatory to offer public night-

(reservations are required).

A

time viewing. Day visitors can stop in at

RIZONA

the observatory’s visitor center (daily

9am–3:45pm), explore a museum, and

take a guided tour. Tours are held at

10am, 11:30am, and 1:30pm. Admission

Tubac & Buenos Air

to the visitor center is free; tours are

$5.75 to $7.75 for adults ($7.75–$9.75

for all three tours) and $3 to $4 for chil-

dren ages 7 to 12 ($3.25–$4.25 for all

three tours). The observatory is 56 miles

southwest of Tucson off Ariz. 86 (allow

90 min. for the drive). Nighttime star-

es National W

gazing (reservations required, call 2–4

weeks in advance) costs $48 for adults;

$44 for students and seniors. The visitor

center is closed New Year’s Day, Thanks-

ildlife Refuge

giving, and Christmas.

The

Mount Graham International

Observatory near the town of Safford

offers 7-hour tours that include lunch

471

3001 E. Frontage Rd. (P.O. Box 81), Amado, AZ 85645. www.amadoterritoryinn.com. 888/398-8684 or 520/398-8684. Fax 520/398-8186. 10 units. $129–$139 double, $295 house. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; spa services. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

IN TUBAC

Floating Stone Inn & Aqua Spa Incorporating the 1853 adobe-

walled Charles Poston house into its design, the laid-back Floating Stone Inn

blends country inn with small spa for a gem of a health-oriented getaway spot.

Guest rooms are built around a central patio area with an outdoor kitchen that is

available to guests. However, the jewel in the crown here is the light-filled sun-

room that houses the inn’s gorgeous indoor pool. Some of the suites are a 5-min-

ute walk from the inn, so if you are planning to stay here primarily for the pools,

be sure to ask for one of the Poston Inn rooms or the Casita Linda. As the Aqua

Spa name implies, this place is all about healing waters. Among the spa treat-

ments offered are Watsu pool massages and other aquatic treatments.

16 Calle Iglesia (P.O. Box 1463), Tubac, AZ 85646. www.thefloatingstoneinn.com. 888/767-2325 or 520/398-3193. Fax 520/398-3207. 11 units. Nov–Apr $142–$155 double, $129–$250

suite; May–Oct $129–$139 double, $109–$159 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 Jacuzzis; indoor and outdoor pools; spa. In room: A/C, TV (some rooms), no phone, free Wi-Fi.

10 Tubac Golf Resort & Spa This economical golf resort is built on the

Otero Ranch, which dates back to 1789 and is the oldest Spanish land-grant

ranch in the Southwest. Today, with its green fairways, the resort is a lush oasis

amid the dry hills of the Santa Cruz Valley and is luxurious enough to compete

with many of Tucson’s resorts. However, the Tubac Golf Resort has more a clas-

sic Southwestern ambience than most of the Tucson golf resorts, and because it

Nogales is fairly small, it has an appealing low-key feel. The red-tile roofs and brick archways throughout the resort conjure its Spanish heritage, while guest rooms are

spacious and modern and set amid expansive lawns. Casitas have patios, beamed

ceilings, and beehive fireplaces; newer rooms are worth requesting.

1 Otero Rd. (P.O. Box 1297), Tubac, AZ 85646. www.tubacgolfresort.com. 800/848-7893 or RIZONA

520/398-2211. 98 units. $99–$279 double; $239–$339 suite. Rates do not include $15 daily resort A

fee. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25

per night). Amenities: 1 restaurant; 1 lounge; babysitting; bikes; concierge; 27-hole golf course; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; room service; full-service spa; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).

OUTHERNS

NOGALES

63 miles S of Tucson; 175 miles S of Phoenix; 65 miles W of Sierra Vista

Situated on the Mexican border, the twin towns of Nogales, Arizona, and Nogales,

Sonora, Mexico (known jointly as Ambos Nogales), form a bustling border com-

munity. All day long, U.S. citizens cross into Mexico to shop for bargains on Mexi-

can handicrafts, pharmaceuticals, tequila, and Kahlúa, while Mexican citizens

cross into the United States to buy products not available in their country.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Nogales is the last town on I-19 before the Mexican border.

Ariz. 82 leads northeast from town toward Sonoita and Sierra Vista.

472

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Nogales Chamber of Commerce, 123

W. Kino Park Way ( 520/287-3685; www.nogaleschamber.com).

Exploring Nogales North &

South of the Border

Most people who visit Nogales, Arizona, are here to cross the border to Nogales,

Mexico. The favorable exchange rate makes shopping in Mexico popular with

Americans, although many of the items for sale in Mexico can sometimes be found

at lower prices in Tucson. Many people now cross the border specifically to pur-

chase prescription drugs, and pharmacies line the streets near the border crossing.

Nogales, Mexico, is a typical border town filled with tiny shops selling crafts

and souvenirs. Some of the better deals are on wool rugs, which cost a fraction of

what a Navajo rug costs but are not nearly as well made. Pottery is another popu-

lar buy. Dozens of restaurants serve simple Mexican food and cheap margaritas.

Plenty of shops and restaurants in Nogales, Mexico, are within walking dis-

tance of the border, so unless you plan to continue farther into Mexico, it’s not a

good idea to take your car. There are numerous pay parking lots and garages on

the U.S. side of the border where your vehicle will be secure for the day. If you

should take your car into Mexico, be sure to get Mexican auto insurance before-

hand—your U.S. auto insurance will not be valid. If you are a member of the

American Automobile Association, you can get Mexican auto insurance through

the AAA office in Tucson. You can also get insurance through Sanborn’s 10

( 800/222-0158; www.sanbornsinsurance.com).

Most businesses in Nogales, Mexico, accept U.S. dollars. You may bring back

SOUTHERN

$800 worth of merchandise duty-free, including 1 liter of liquor (if you are 21 or

older). You need either a passport, a passport card, a Trusted Traveler Card, or some other U.S. government–accepted identification document to cross the border into

Mexico and return to the U.S. Be sure to verify that you have appropriate docu-

A

mentation before entering Mexico; visit www.travel.state.gov for more info.

RIZONA

Note: Nogales has had a high crime rate in recent years, but tourists have not been targeted. Still, it’s advisable to check the current situation before crossing the border.

Where to Stay & Eat

Nogales

Esplendor Resort at Rio Rico

Just a few miles north of Nogales,

Esplendor is a secluded hilltop golf resort with great views across the Santa Cruz

Valley and amenities that are similar to what you’ll find at many Tucson resorts.

Rooms are done up in a very tasteful Spanish colonial decor, have attractive tile

These Boots Were Made for Ridin’

Cowboys and cowgirls in search of the

boots that are both functional and works

ultimate pair of boots should be sure to

of art. These boots can sell for $1,200 or

schedule a visit to Nogales’s Paul Bond

more, although prices start at around

Boot Company, 915 W. Paul Bond Dr.

$550. This boot maker has been in busi-

( 520/281-0512; www.paulbondboots.

ness in Nogales since the 1950s. Take exit

com), where you can shop for cowboy

4 (Mariposa Rd.) off I-19 and drive west.

473

work in the bathrooms, and are some of the prettiest in southern Arizona. The

only drawback is that the resort’s Robert Trent Jones golf course is a short drive

away on the far side of the freeway. The resort makes a good base for exploring

east to Patagonia and west to Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge.

1069 Camino Caralampi, Rio Rico, AZ 85648. www.esplendor-resort.com. 800/288-4746 or 520/281-1901. Fax 520/281-7132. 180 units. $109–$179 double; $199–$450 suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 fee). Amenities: 2

restaurants; 2 lounges; concierge; 18-hole golf course; exercise room; Jacuzzi; Olympic-size outdoor pool; room service; sauna; 4 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Hacienda Corona de Guevavi Few lodging places anywhere in Ari-

zona capture the character of the state better than this historic hilltop ranch

house outside of Nogales. Originally the headquarters of the Guevavi Ranch, the

sprawling home was once a favorite getaway for John Wayne. Today the inn,

which is built around courtyards and quiet gardens, has five very tastefully deco-

rated guest rooms, four of which reflect the inn’s Southwestern heritage (the

other room has the feel of a room at an African safari lodge). There are also sev-

eral casitas (guesthouses) available for families.

348 S. River Rd. (HC2 Box 96), Nogales, AZ 85621. www.haciendacorona.com. 888/287-6502

or 520/287-6503. Fax 520/287-9312. 8 units. $199–$239 double. Main house rates include full breakfast and evening hors d’oeuvres. DISC, MC, V. No children 6 or under in main house but 10 young children accepted in casitas. Pets accepted ($100 refundable deposit, plus $5 per night).

Amenities: Concierge; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, fridge, hair dryer, no phone.

PATAGONIA & SONOITA

Patagonia: 18 miles NW of Nogales; 60 miles SE of Tucson; 171 miles SE of Phoenix; 50 miles SW

of Tombstone

A mild climate, a few good restaurants, bed-and-breakfast inns, and a handful of

wineries have turned the small communities of Patagonia and Sonoita into a

favorite weekend getaway for Tucsonans. Sonoita Creek attracts an amazing vari-

Patagonia & Sonoita ety of bird life and, consequently, bird-watchers.

Patagonia and Sonoita are only about 12 miles apart, but they have decidedly

different characters. Patagonia is a sleepy little hamlet with tree-shaded streets,

quite a few old adobe buildings, and a big park in the middle of town. The town’s

main draw is the Nature Conservancy preserve. Sonoita, on the other hand, sits

RIZONA

out on the windswept high plains and is really a highway crossroads, not a town.

A

The landscape around Sonoita is filled with expensive new homes on small

ranches, and not far away are the vineyards of one of Arizona’s main wine regions.

Essentials

OUTHERNS

GETTING THERE Sonoita is at the junction of Ariz. 83 and Ariz. 82. Patagonia is

12 miles southwest of Sonoita on Ariz. 82.

VISITOR INFORMATION The

Patagonia Visitor Information Center, 317

McKeown Ave. ( 888/794-0060; www.patagoniaaz.com), is open Monday

through Saturday from 10:30am to 5pm and Sunday from 10:30am to 4pm.

Exploring Patagonia & Sonoita

Patagonia, 18 miles northwest of Nogales on Ariz. 82, is a historic mining and

ranching town that is surrounded by the Patagonia Mountains. Over the years,

474

Patagonia–Sonoita Creek Preserve.

Nesting red-tailed hawks in the Patagonia–

Sonoita Creek Preserve.

this area has been a backdrop for such films as Oklahoma!, Red River, A Star Is

Born, and David and Bathsheba, and such TV programs as Little House on the Prairie and The Young Riders. Today, however, bird-watching and tranquillity draw most people to this remote town.

The Patagonia–Sonoita Creek Preserve ( 520/394-2400; www.

nature.org) is owned by the Nature Conservancy and protects 2 miles of Sonoita

Creek riparian (riverside) habitat. Among the rare birds that can be seen are 22 10

species of flycatchers, kingbirds, and phoebes, plus the Montezuma quail. A for-

est of cottonwood trees, some more than 100 feet tall, lines the creek. At one

SOUTHERN

time, such forests grew along all the rivers in the region, but today, this is one of southern Arizona’s best remaining examples of a cottonwood-willow riparian forest. To reach the sanctuary, which is just outside Patagonia on a dirt road that

parallels Ariz. 82, turn west on Fourth Avenue and then south on Pennsylvania

A

Street, drive through the creek, and continue about 1 mile. From April to Sep-

RIZONA

tember, hours are Wednesday through Sunday from 6:30am to 4pm; from Octo-

ber to March, hours are Wednesday through Sunday from 7:30am to 4pm.

Admission is $5 ($3 for Nature Conservancy members).

On your way to or from the Nature Conservancy Preserve, be sure to drop

by Paton’s Birder’s Haven. Numerous hummingbird feeders and a variety of

Patagonia & Sonoita

other feeders attract an amazing range of birds to the yard, making this a favorite

stop of avid birders who are touring the region. If you’re heading out to the

Nature Conservancy preserve, watch for the birder’s haven sign at 477 Pennsyl-

vania Rd. after you cross the creek.

Another required birders’ stop in the area is at the Patagonia Roadside

Rest Area, 41⁄4 miles south of Patagonia on Ariz. 82. This pull-off is a good place to look for rose-throated becards, varied buntings, and zone-tailed hawks.

Avid birders will also want to visit Las Cienegas National Conservation

Area ( 520/258-7200; www.blm.gov/az), which has grasslands, wetlands, and oak forests. This is a good place to look for the rarely seen gray hawk. Access

is off the east side of Ariz. 83, about 7 miles north of Sonoita.

Patagonia Lake State Park ( 520/287-6965; www.azstateparks.com),

about 7 miles south of Patagonia off Ariz. 82, is a popular boating and fishing

lake that was formed by the damming of Sonoita Creek. The lake is 21⁄2 miles

long and stocked in winter with rainbow trout. Other times of the year,

people fish for bass, crappie, bluegill, and catfish. Park facilities include a picnic 475

Navajo Rugs

ground, campground, and swim-

ming beach. Adjacent to the state

If you happen to be in the market for a

park, you’ll find the Sonoita

Navajo rug, get in touch with Steve Getz-

Creek State Natural Area

willer at Nizhoni Ranch Gallery ( 520/455-

( 520/287-2791), a 5,000-acre

5020; www.navajorug.com), which is located

preserve along the banks of

outside Sonoita. Here you’ll find one of Ari-

Sonoita Creek. This natural area

zona’s best selections of contemporary and

is known for its excellent bird-

old Navajo rugs.

watching, and guided birding

walks are offered on a regular

basis. Elegant trogons, which are

among the most beautiful of southern Arizona’s rare birds, are often spotted here.

The park day-use fee is $10. Campsites are $17 to $25 ( 520/586-2283 or

www.azstateparks.com for reservations).

If you’d like to have a local birding guide take you out and help you identify

the area’s many species of flycatchers, contact Matt Brown at the Patagonia

Birding & Butterfly Co. ( 520/604-6300; www.lifebirds.com). For two people, the charge is $30 per hour. If you want to do some horseback riding while

you’re in the area, contact Arizona Horseback Experience ( 520/455-

5696; www.horsebackexperience.com), and book a trail ride through the area’s grasslands. A 3-hour ride is $90 and a wine-tasting ride to a local winery is $170.

10

While in Patagonia, be sure to

check out the interesting shops

and galleries around town. You’ll find

interesting books and gifts at Mari-

posa Books, 317 McKeown Ave.

( 520/394-9186). Mesquite Grove

Gallery, 371 McKeown Ave. ( 520/

394-2356), has a good selection of

works by area artists. At Global

Arts Gallery, 315 McKeown Ave.

Patagonia & Sonoita ( 520/394-0077; www.globalarts

gallery.com), you’ll find a wide range of

ethnic arts, fine art, jewelry, and wom-

en’s clothing. Also be sure to visit La

Galeria Dia de los Muertos, 266

RIZONA

Naugle Ave. ( 520/394-2035). This

A

little cottage museum was the creation

of Grayce Arnold, who assembled a

collection of hundreds of Mexican

skeleton figures that were created for

OUTHERN

Mexico’s Dia de los Muertos (Day of

S

the Dead) celebration. The gallery is See the collection of hundreds of skeleton

usually open on weekends; call ahead figures at La Galeria Dia de los Muertos.

on weekdays.

Wine Touring

Sonoita is little more than a crossroads with a few shops and restaurants, but sur-

rounding the community are miles of rolling grasslands that are a mix of luxury-

home “ranchettes” and actual cattle ranches. Out on those high plains, more

476

than just deer and antelope play. Oenophiles roam,

as well. With nine wineries between Sonoita and

Elgin, this is Arizona’s biggest little wine country

(there are also concentrations of wineries to the

east of here near Willcox and in the Sedona area of

central Arizona). Most of the wineries are located

in or near the village of Elgin, which is 10 miles

east of Sonoita. The following are my favorite area

wineries. If you want to try some of the other win-

eries in the area, pick up a map at any of these

wineries. Also, most area wineries will give you a

discount on your tasting if you bring a glass from

another area winery.

Right in Sonoita, you’ll find Dos Cabezas

WineWorks, 3248 Ariz. 82 ( 520/841-1193;

www.doscabezaswinery.com), which is located in

the middle of town. The winery’s tasting room is

open Thursday through Sunday from 10:30am to

4:30pm ($7 tasting fee). Five miles south of

Sonoita, you’ll find Lightning Ridge Cellars,

2368 Ariz. 83 ( 520/455-5383; www.lightning

Callaghan Vineyards produces

ridgecellars.com), which makes several surpris-

the best wines in the region.

ingly good red wines, primarily from estate-grown 10

grapes. The tasting room is open Friday through

S

Sunday from 11am to 4pm, and the tasting fee is $7. Just west of Elgin, you’ll find

OUTHERN

Callaghan Vineyards , 336 Elgin Rd. ( 520/455-5322; www.callaghan

vineyards.com), which is open for tastings Friday through Sunday from 11am to

3pm ($10 tasting fee). This winery produces by far the best wines in the region

and, arguably, the best wines in the state. Next door to Callaghan is Canelo

A

Hills Vineyard & Winery, 342 Elgin Rd. ( 520/455-5499; www.canelo RIZONA

hillswinery.com), a small winery with a casual tasting room in the winery itself.

Owners Joan and Tim Mueller produce some excellent wines in the $20 to $30

range. The tasting room is open Friday through Sunday from 11am to 4pm ($8

tasting fee). Next door to this winery, you’ll find Kief-Joshua Vineyards, 370

Elgin Rd. ( 520/455-5582; www.kj-vineyards.com), which boasts the most

Patagonia & Sonoita

ostentatious tasting room in the area. It’s open daily from 11am to 5pm ($5 tast-

ing fee). If you’d like to leave the driving to someone else while you explore the

wine country, contact Wine Country Tours ( 520/603-1434; www.winec

tours.com).

Where to Eat

IN PATAGONIA

For good coffee and pastries, check out Gathering Grounds, 319 McKeown

Ave. ( 520/394-2009), which also serves ice cream and has a deli.

Velvet Elvis Pizza Company ITALIAN This casual hangout sums up the

unusual character of Patagonia’s residents. Faux-finished walls ooze artiness,

while paeans to pop culture include shrines to both the Virgin Mary and Elvis.

The menu features a variety of pizzas heaped with veggies, cheeses, and meats,

but if you can remember to plan a day in advance, you should call in an order for

477

the Inca pizza (made with a quinoa-flour crust). Add an organic salad and accom-

pany it with some fresh juice, microbrew, espresso, or wine.

292 Naugle Ave. www.velvetelvispizza.com. 520/394-2102. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Pizzas $12–$45; other dishes $7.50–$10. MC, V. Thurs–Sat 11:30am–8:30pm; Sun 11:30am–7:30pm.

IN SONOITA

Canela

SOUTHWESTERN This little restaurant at the crossroads of

Sonoita is an absolute must if you are in the area for a wine-country getaway. The

menu changes frequently to take advantage of what’s fresh and seasonal, but may

include sunchoke soup; crispy sweetbreads with sunchoke ravioli, local arugula,

grilled pear, and lemon; grilled duck breast with black-pepper gnocchi and

roasted poblano chilies; or Arizona beef hanger steak with local cress and honey-

thyme mashed sweet potatoes, and chimichurri sauce. The Sunday brunch is a

great way to begin an afternoon of wine tasting at area wineries.

3252 Ariz. 82. www.canelabistro.com. 520/455-5873. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Fri–Sun 5–9pm. Closed May–Sept.

The Steak Out STEAK This is ranch country, and this big barn of a place is

where the ranchers and everyone else for miles around head when they want a

good steak. A classic cowboy atmosphere prevails—there’s even a mounted steer

10 head just inside the front door. The restaurant’s name and the scent of a mes-

quite fire should be all the hints you need about what to order—a grilled steak,

preferably the tender filet mignon. Wash it down with a beer, and you’ve got the

perfect cowboy dinner.

3200 S. Sonoita Hwy. (at intersection of Ariz. 82 and Ariz. 83). www.azsteakout.com. 520/455-5205. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs

5–9pm; Fri 5–10pm; Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

Where to Stay

IN PATAGONIA

Patagonia & Sonoita Circle Z Ranch In business since 1926, this is the oldest continuously operating guest ranch in Arizona. Over the years, it has served as a backdrop for numer-

ous movies and TV shows, including Gunsmoke and John Wayne’s Red River. The 6,500-acre ranch on the banks of Sonoita Creek is bordered by the Nature Conservancy’s Patagonia–Sonoita Creek Sanctuary, Patagonia State Park, and the Coro-

RIZONA

nado National Forest. More than 165 miles of nearby trails ensure that everyone

A

gets in plenty of riding in a variety of terrain, from desert hills to grasslands to the riparian forest along the creek. The adobe cottages provide an authentic ranch feel

that’s appreciated by guests hoping to find a genuine bit of the Old West.

Ariz. 82 (btw. Nogales and Patagonia), P.O. Box 194, Patagonia, AZ 85624. www.circlez.com.

OUTHERNS

888/854-2525 or 520/394-2525. 24 units. $2,640–$3,680 double per week. Rates do not

include 15% service charge. Lower rates for children 15 and under. Nightly rates sometimes available, with 3-night minimum. Rates include all meals and horseback riding. MC, V. Closed early May to late Oct. Amenities: Dining room; BYOB lounge; outdoor pool; tennis court.

In room: No phone.

Duquesne House B&B This historic adobe building 1 block off Patago-

nia’s main street was built in 1898 as a boarding house for miners. Today the little adobe building, with its shady front porch, is your best choice for overnight

478

accommodations in Patagonia. Each of the three suites has its own entrance, sit-

ting room, and bedroom, and is decorated in an eclectic Southwestern style. The

studio apartment has its own kitchenette. My favorite room has an ornate wood-

stove and claw-foot tub. At the back of the house, an enclosed porch overlooks

the large garden.

357 Duquesne Ave. (P.O. Box 162), Patagonia, AZ 85624. www.theduquesnehouse.com.

520/394-2732. 4 units. Thurs–Mon $125 double (rate includes full breakfast); Tues–Wed $110 double (rate does not include breakfast). No credit cards. In room: A/C, CD player, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

IN SONOITA

Xanadu Ranch GetAway To “B” or not to “B,” that is the question at Xanadu

Ranch, which calls itself a hybrid B&B. What this means is that you can opt for a breakfast basket or not, your choice. You can also opt to bring your own horse with

you if you wish, since this place is also a “horse motel.” The ranch owners, Bernie

and Karen Kauk, don’t offer horseback riding, but they can put you in touch with

people who do. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, and the setting, on a hill

south of town, provides great views and awesome sunsets. Despite the name, the

Bunkhouse is both the nicest (and newest) room on the ranch. This makes a good

base both for touring the wine country and bird-watching.

92 S. Los Encinos Rd. (P.O. Box 1291), Sonoita, AZ 85637. www.xanaduranchgetaway.com.

520/455-0050. 4 units. $99–$129 double (lower rates for longer stays). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

Pets accepted ($10 per night). In room: AC, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen (in 10

some), free Wi-Fi.

SOUTHERN

SIERRA VISTA & THE SAN PEDRO

VALLEY

A

70 miles SE of Tucson; 189 miles SE of Phoenix; 33 miles SW of Tombstone; 33 miles W of Bisbee RIZONA

At an elevation of 4,620 feet above sea level, Sierra Vista is blessed with the per-

fect climate—never too hot, never too cold. This fact more than anything else

has contributed to Sierra Vista becoming one of the fastest-growing cities in Ari-

zona. Its location between the Huachuca Mountains and the valley of the San

Sierra V

Pedro River makes it a good base for exploring the region’s natural attractions.

Within a few miles’ drive of town are the San Pedro Riparian National Con-

servation Area, Coronado National Memorial, and the Nature Conservancy’s

ista & the San Pedr

Ramsey Canyon Preserve. Few areas of the United States attract as much atten-

tion from birders, who come in hopes of spotting some of the 300 bird species

that have been sighted in southeastern Arizona. About 25 miles north of town is

Kartchner Caverns State Park®, the region’s biggest attraction.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Sierra Vista is at the junction of Ariz. 90 and Ariz. 92 about 35

o V

miles south of I-10.

alley

VISITOR INFORMATION The

Sierra Vista Convention & Visitors Bureau,

3020 E. Tacoma St. ( 800/288-3861 or 520/417-6960; www.visitsierra

vista.com), can provide information on the area. To find the visitor center if

you’re coming from the north, take the Ariz. 90 Bypass, turn right on

479

Coronado Drive, turn left on Tacoma Street, and continue to the Oscar

Yrun Community Center.

SPECIAL EVENTS In February, cowboy poets, singers, and musicians come

together at the Cochise Cowboy Poetry & Music Gathering ( 520/

678-9952; www.cowboypoets.com).

Exploring the Benson Area

Tucson may have Old Tucson Studios,

but Benson has Mescal ( 520/883-

0100). This Western-town movie set is

operated by Old Tucson Studios and

has been used for years in the making

of Westerns, as well as TV shows and

commercials. Hour-long walking tours

of Mescal are offered and provide a

feel for the many movies that have

been shot here. While Old Tucson Stu-

dios feels like an amusement park, this

place seems like an old ghost town. For

fans of old Westerns, this is a must.

February through April, tours are avail-

10 able on Saturday between 10am and

2pm, and cost $9 per person. Roughly

35 miles east of Tucson, take Exit 297

off I-10, then head north for 3 miles on

alley

Mescal Road. When the pavement

o V

ends, head west for 1⁄2 mile on the dirt

road to the town, which is visible on Kartchner Caverns State Park®.

the hill ahead.

The remarkable Singing Wind Bookshop ( 520/586-2425), on a

ranch down a dirt road north of town, has been in business more than 30 years

and started out with just a couple of shelves of books. Now the inventory is well

into the thousands, with an emphasis on the Southwest, natural sciences, and

ista & the San Pedr

children’s literature. To get here, take exit 304 from I-10 in Benson. Drive north

21⁄4 miles and take a right (east) at the sign that says singing wind road. Drive to the end, opening and closing the gate. The store is open daily from 9am to 5pm.

Sierra V Kartchner Caverns State Park® NATURAL ATTRACTION These

caverns are among the largest and most beautiful in the country, and because

they are wet caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, soda straws, and other cave forma-

tions are still growing. Within the caverns are two huge rooms, each larger than

RIZONA

a football field with ceilings more than 100 feet high. These two rooms can be

A

visited on two separate tours. On the shorter Rotunda/Throne Room Tour, you’ll

see, in the Rotunda Room, thousands of delicate soda straws. The highlight,

though, is the Throne Room, at the center of which is a 58-foot-tall column. The

second, and longer, tour visits the Big Room and leads past many strange and rare

OUTHERN

cave formations. Within the park are several miles of aboveground hiking trails.

S

A campground ($25 per night) provides a convenient place to stay in the area.

Because the caverns are a popular attraction and tours are limited, try to

make a reservation in advance, especially if you want to visit on a weekend. How-

ever, it is sometimes possible to get same-day tickets.

480

Off Ariz. 90, 9 miles south of Benson. www.azstateparks.com. 520/586-2283 for reservations or 520/586-4100 for information. Admission $6 per car (up to 4 adults). Tours $23 adults, $13

children 7–13, children 6 or under not allowed on Big Room Tour. June–Sept park 8am–5pm (Discovery Center 9am–5pm); Oct–May park 7am–6pm (Discovery Center 8am–6pm). Closed

Christmas; no Big Room Tours mid-Apr to mid-Oct.

Exploring the Sierra Vista Area

Arizona Folklore Preserve PERFORMING ARTS VENUE Set beneath

the shady cottonwoods and sycamores of Ramsey Canyon, the Arizona Folklore

Preserve is the brainchild of Dolan Ellis, Arizona’s official state balladeer, and his wife, Rose. Ellis was first appointed state balladeer back in 1966 and has been

writing songs about Arizona for more than 45 years. He performs most weekends

and often welcomes musical guests to the stage of this performance hall.

56 E. Folklore Trail. www.arizonafolklore.com. 520/378-6165. Admission $15 adults, $6 students 17 and under. Showtime Sat–Sun 2pm. Reservations recommended. Take Ariz. 92 south from Sierra Vista and turn right onto Ramsey Canyon Rd.

Coronado National Memorial NATIONAL PARK About 20 miles south

of Sierra Vista is a 5,000-acre preserve dedicated to Francisco Vásquez de Coro-

nado, the first European to explore this region. In 1540, Coronado, leading more

than 700 people, left Compostela, Mexico, in search of the fabled Seven Cities

of Cíbola, said to be rich in gold and jewels. Sometime between 1540 and 1542,

Coronado led his band of weary men and women up the valley of the San Pedro 10

River, which this monument overlooks. At the visitor center, you can learn about

S

Coronado’s fruitless quest for riches and check out the wildlife observation area.

OUTHERN

A quarter mile from the visitor center, a trail leads three-quarters of a mile to

600-foot-long Coronado Cave. (You’ll need to bring your own flashlight.) After

stopping at the visitor center, drive up to 6,575-foot Montezuma Pass, which is

in the center of the memorial and provides far-reaching views of Sonora, Mexico,

A

to the south, the San Pedro River to the east, and several mountain ranges and

RIZONA

valleys to the west. Along the .8-mile round-trip Coronado Peak Trail, you’ll also

have good views of the valley and can read quotations from the journals of Coro-

nado’s followers. There are also some longer trails where you’ll see few other hik-

ers. While the Monument Fire of 2011 did extensive damage to the forests in this

area, most of the charred trees are at the higher elevations, which are not gener-

Sierra V

ally accessible by road.

4101 E. Montezuma Canyon Rd., Hereford. www.nps.gov/coro. 520/366-5515. Free admisista & the San Pedr

sion. Visitor center daily 8am–4pm; memorial daily dawn–dusk. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Take Ariz. 92 south from Sierra Vista to S. Coronado Memorial Dr. and continue 5

miles to the visitor center.

Fort Huachuca Museum MUSEUM Fort Huachuca, an army base at the

mouth of Huachuca Canyon just west of Sierra Vista, was established in 1877.

The buildings of the old post have been declared a National Historic Landmark,

and one is now a museum dedicated to the many forts that dotted the Southwest

o V

in the latter part of the 19th century. Interesting aspects of the exhibits include

alley

quotes by soldiers that give an idea of what it was like to serve back then. The

associated U.S. Army Intelligence Museum, at Hungerford and Cristi streets,

has displays on early code machines, surveillance drones, and other pieces of

equipment formerly used for intelligence gathering.

481

left: Ramsey Creek attracts a variety of wild-

life. right: Over 14 species of hummingbirds

have been sighted in Ramsey Canyon.

At the Fort Huachuca U.S. Army base, Grierson Rd., Sierra Vista. 520/533-5736. Admission by donation. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; Sat–Sun 1–4pm. Closed all federal holidays.

Ramsey Canyon Preserve NATURE RESERVE Each year, beginning in

10 late spring, a buzzing fills the air in Ramsey Canyon, but instead of reaching for the bug repellant, visitors reach for their binoculars. It’s not the buzzing of mos-quitoes or bees that fills the air, but rather the buzzing of hummingbirds. Over

the years, 14 species of hummingbirds have been sighted here, and it is the whir-

alley

ring of these diminutive birds’ wings that fills the air. Because Ramsey Creek,

which flows through the canyon, is a year-round stream, it attracts a wide variety

o V

of wildlife, including bears, bobcats, and more than 170 species of birds. A short

nature trail leads through the canyon, and a second trail leads higher up the

canyon. April and May are the busiest times here, while May and August are the

best times to see hummingbirds.

Between March and October,

A Holy Bird Sanctuary

guided walks are offered Monday,

Thursday, and Saturday at 9am.

ista & the San Pedr

In the community of St. David, 5 miles south

27 Ramsey Canyon Rd., off Ariz. 92, 5

of Benson on Ariz. 80, you’ll find the Holy

miles south of Sierra Vista. www.nature.

Trinity Monastery ( 520/720-4016; www.

Sierra V

org. 520/378-2785. Admission $5 ($3

holytrinitymonastery.org), which is near the

for Nature Conservancy members); free

banks of the San Pedro River and has a 1.3-

on 1st Sat of each month. Thurs–Mon

mile birding trail.

8am–5pm. Closed New Year’s Day,

Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

RIZONA A San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area NATURE

RESERVE Over the past century, roughly 90% of Arizona’s free-flowing year-

round rivers and streams have disappeared due to human use of desert waters.

These rivers and streams once supported riparian areas that provided water, food,

OUTHERN

and protection to myriad plants, animals, and even humans. You can get an idea

S

of what such riparian areas were like by visiting this sprawling preserve, which is

located 8 miles east of Sierra Vista. Fossil findings from this area indicate that

people were living along this river as long as 13,000 years ago. At that time, this

area was a swamp, not a desert. Today, the San Pedro River is all that remains of

482

this ancient wetland, and, due to an earthquake a century ago, much of the San

Pedro’s water now flows underground. Don’t expect a wide, rushing river when

you visit the San Pedro; what you’ll see here would be called a creek anywhere

but Arizona. Still, the water attracts wildlife, including more than 350 species of

birds, which makes the conservation area very popular with birders.

Also within the riparian area is the Murray Springs Clovis Site, where 16

spear points and the remains of a 13,000-year-old mammoth kill were found in

the 1960s. Although there isn’t much to see other than some trenches, there are

numerous interpretive signs along the short trail through the site. It’s just north

of Ariz. 90 about 5 miles east of Sierra Vista.

For a glimpse of the region’s Spanish history, visit the ruins of the Presidio

Santa Cruz de Terrenate, about 20 miles northeast of Sierra Vista off Ariz. 82

near the ghost town of Fairbank. This military outpost was established in 1775 or

1776 but was never completed due to the constant attacks by Apaches. Today

only decaying adobe walls remain. To reach this site, take Ariz. 82 east from U.S.

90 and drive north 13⁄4 miles on Ironhorse Ranch Road, which is at milepost 60.

It’s a 1.3-mile hike to the site.

Within the conservation area, you can also visit Fairbank ghost town,

which is beside the San Pedro River bridge on Ariz. 82. Here you’ll find the

remains of several buildings from the heyday of this former railroad town. Fair-

bank, which was founded in the 1880s to serve nearby silver-mining towns, once

had a population of nearly 15,000 people. Today, only one of the old buildings has

been restored and opened to the public. The old Fairbank School is now the 10

Fairbank Schoolhouse, 2679 N. Old Fairbank Rd. ( 520/457-3062; www.

S

sanpedroriver.org/fairbank.shtml) and is open Friday through Sunday from

OUTHERN

9:30am to 4:30pm; admission is free. From Fairbank, several miles of hiking

trails lead along the San Pedro River. You can walk to two other ghost towns,

Millville and Charleston, but there is very little to see at either of these old town sites. It is also possible to walk from Fairbank to the ruins of the Presidio Santa

A

Cruz de Terrenate.

RIZONA

Sierra V

ista & the San Pedr

o V

alley

San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area.

483

For bird-watching, the best place is the system of trails at the Ariz. 90 crossing

of the San Pedro. Here you’ll find the San Pedro House, 9800 Ariz. 90 ( 520/

508-4445), a 1930s ranch that is operated as a visitor center and bookstore. It’s open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm and has information on guided walks and hikes,

bird walks, bird-banding sessions, and other events that are scheduled throughout

the year. Outside the old ranch house, there’s a huge old cottonwood tree.

Ariz. 90. www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/ncarea/sprnca.html. 520/439-6400. Free admission. Parking areas sunrise–sunset.

Outdoor Activities

Bird-watching is big business in these parts, with birders’ B&Bs, bird refuges, and even birding festivals. The Southwest Wings Birding and Nature Festival

(www.swwings.org), one of southern Arizona’s biggest annual birding events, is

held each year in early August in Sierra Vista.

If you’d like to join a guided bird walk along the San Pedro River or up Miller

Canyon in the Huachuca Mountains, an owl-watching night hike, or a humming-

bird banding session, contact the Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory

( 520/432-1388; www.sabo.org), which also has a public bird-viewing area at its headquarters 2 miles north of the Mule Mountain Tunnel on Ariz. 80 north of

Bisbee (watch for Hidden Meadow Lane). Most activities cost $10 to $20,

although there are also half-day trips for $45 and day trips for $75. Workshops

10 and tours are also offered.

Serious birders who want to be sure to add lots of rare birds to their life lists

might want to visit this area on a guided tour. Your best bet is Mark Pretti

Nature Tours ( 520/803-6889; www.markprettinaturetours.com), run by alley

the former resident naturalist at Ramsey Canyon Preserve. A half-day birding

o V

tour costs $120 and a full-day tour costs $200 to $220. Three-day ($625) and 7-

to 8-day ($1,300–$1,400) trips are also offered. Melody Kehl’s of Melody’s

Birding Adventures ( 520/245-4085; www.ebiz.netopia.com/outdoor) is another reliable local guide; her rates start at $25 per hour. High Lonesome

Birdtours ( 443/838-6589; www.hilonesome.com), another local tour company, charges $2,450 per person for a 7-day birding trip.

South of Ramsey Canyon off Ariz. 92, you’ll find Carr Canyon, which has

ista & the San Pedr

a road that climbs up through the canyon to some of the higher elevations in the

Huachuca Mountains. Keep your eyes open for buff-breasted flycatchers, red

crossbills, and red-faced warblers. The one-lane road is narrow and winding (usu-

Sierra V ally navigable by passenger car), and not for the acrophobic. It climbs 5 miles up into the mountains to the old mining camp of Reef Townsite. This area was

severely impacted by the Monument Fire of 2011.

The Environmental Operations Park, 3 miles east of Ariz. 92 on Ariz.

90, is a grasslands and wetlands restoration site at Sierra Vista’s sewage treatment RIZONA

facility, and is a good place to see yellow-headed blackbirds, ducks, peregrines,

A

and harriers from fall to spring. For more information, contact the City of Sierra

Vista ( 520/458-3315) or the Southeast Arizona Bird Observatory ( 520/

432-1388).

Even if you’re not a birder, you might want to get out and explore the moun-

OUTHERNS

tains of this area. Although the Huachuca Mountains west of Sierra Vista were

severely impacted by 2011’s Monument Fire, there are many miles of trails

through these mountains. Hiking trails can be found in Garden Canyon on Fort

Huachuca, at Ramsey Canyon Preserve, at Carr Canyon in Coronado National

484

Hummingbird Heaven

If it’s summer and you’re looking to add

( 520/378-2728; www.beattysguest

as many hummingbirds to your life list

ranch.com), where a public humming-

as possible, take a drive up Miller

bird-viewing area is set up. A total of 15

Canyon (south of Ramsey Canyon) to

species of hummers have been sighted

Beatty’s Guest Ranch and Orchard,

here, and several times, 14 species have

2173 E. Miller Canyon Rd., Hereford

been seen in 1 day.

Forest, and within Coronado National Memorial. See “Outdoor Activities: Birding

Hot Spots,” later in the chapter, for details. For information on hiking in the Coronado National Forest, contact the Sierra Vista Ranger District, 5990 S. Hwy.

92 ( 520/378-0311; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado), 8 miles south of Sierra Vista.

Where to Eat

In addition to the restaurants below, Sierra Vista supports quite a number of

Asian restaurants, with an emphasis on Chinese, Japanese, and Korean cuisine.

The Mesquite Tree STEAK This casual steakhouse south of town (and not

far from the mouth of Ramsey Canyon) has long been a favorite of locals. It’s

funky and dark, and the prices can’t be beat. Although you can get chicken and

fish dishes done in a variety of traditional Continental styles, most people come 10

here for the steaks. Try the Vargas rib-eye, which is smothered with green chilies,

jack cheese, and enchilada sauce—a real border-country original. When the

SOUTHERN

weather is warm, try to get a seat on the patio.

S. Ariz. 92 and Carr Canyon Rd. 520/378-2758. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–9pm; Sun 5–8pm.

Pizzeria Mimosa ITALIAN If you’re looking for a bright, airy place for a good

ARIZONA

meal while you’re in the Sierra Vista area, be sure to give this large, modern Italian restaurant a try. With great views of the Huachucas, an impressive open kitchen,

and a little market full of wines and Italian cooking ingredients, Pizzeria Mimosa

is the most sophisticated restaurant in the area. While pizzas are the mainstays of

the menu, you can also get a good assortment of pastas, panini, and salads.

Sierra V

4755 E. Neapolitan Way, Hereford. www.pizzeriamimosa.com. 520/378-0022. Main courses $9–$20. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri-Sat 11am–10pm.

ista & the San Pedr

Tanuki Sushi Bar & Garden JAPANESE Of all the many Asian restau-

rants in Sierra Vista, this is my favorite. Take a glance around at the signed plates on the walls, and you’ll see that other visitors, including actor Tom Selleck, have

enjoyed meals here, too. I like to get the sushi, which is the freshest in town, but there are plenty of traditional hot Japanese dishes available as well.

1221 E. Fry Blvd. 520/459-6853. Reservations recommended. Main courses $5.50–$20. AE, o V

MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 5–9:30pm.

alley

Where to Stay

IN BENSON

Desert Rose Inn If you’re looking for lodging close to Kartchner Caverns®,

try this off-ramp budget hotel in Benson. The hotel’s lobby is done in Santa Fe

485

style with flagstone floors and rustic Southwestern furniture. Guest rooms are

strictly hotel modern, but they are roomy and reliable.

630 S. Village Loop, Benson, AZ 85602. www.desertroseinnaz.com. 866/943-4970. Fax 520/586-1370. 62 units. $94–$144 double; $140–$165 suite. Rates include continental breakfast.

Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

IN SIERRA VISTA

Lazy Dog Ranch This small B&B is located within the San Pedro Riparian

National Conservation Area, with the river flowing past the edge of the property.

Consequently, the inn is an excellent choice for bird-watchers. Accommodations

are quite large and decorated with Southwestern style. One unit is a cottage just

off the courtyard, and the other unit has a kitchenette. In that courtyard you’ll

find both a fire pit (for cool nights) and a swimming pool (for warm days). There

are hiking trails nearby. Around the inn, you’ll find lots of art and artifacts from owners Michael and Catherine McCormack’s world travels, and, yes, there are

lazy dogs in residence.

3123 N. Thistle Rd., Sierra Vista, AZ 85635. www.lazydogranch.net. 520/458-5583. 2 units.

$125 double. 2-night minimum on weekends. Rates include continental breakfast. Children 10

and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Seasonal outdoor pool. In room: Fridge, free Wi-Fi.

10 IN HEREFORD

Ash Canyon Bed & Breakfast With a single casita (little house), this

secluded birders’ B&B may be small, but if you’re serious about birds, this is the alley

place to stay in the area. People come from all over the country to sit on owner/

innkeeper Mary Jo Ballator’s back patio watching rare birds, many of which never

o V

make it much farther north than right here. Stay in the cute little cottage, and

you’ll be able to catch all the bird activity at sunrise and sunset. By the way, the casita is built from straw bales and consequently is very energy efficient.

5255 Spring Rd., Hereford, AZ 85615-9029. www.ashcanyonbandb.com. 520/378-0773. 1

unit. $140 double (discounts for longer stays). Sept 15–Feb 15 and June 2-night minimum; other months 3-night minimum. Rates include full breakfast. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s ista & the San Pedr

room. No credit cards. In room: CD player, hair dryer, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Casa de San Pedro Built with bird-watching in mind, this modern inn is

set on the west side of the San Pedro River on 10 acres of land. The inn is built

Sierra V in the territorial style around a courtyard garden and has large, comfortable hotel-style guest rooms and a large common room where birders gather to swap tales of

the day’s sightings. The inn also offers birding, cultural, and history tours. This is by far the most upscale inn in the region and is my favorite.

RIZONA

8933 S. Yell Lane, Hereford, AZ 85615. www.bedandbirds.com. 888/257-2050 or 520/366-A

1300. Fax 520/366-0701. 10 units. $169–$179 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. No children 11 or under. Amenities: Concierge; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, CD

player, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Ramsey Canyon Inn Bed & Breakfast Adjacent to the Nature Conser-

OUTHERNS

vancy’s Ramsey Canyon Preserve, this inn is the most convenient choice in the

area for avid birders who are here to see the canyon’s famous hummingbirds. The

property straddles Ramsey Creek, with guest rooms in the main house and

housekeeping suites reached by a footbridge over the creek. In addition to the

486

large gourmet breakfast, you’ll also get pie in the afternoon. Book early during the birding season. With its on-demand water heaters, gray-water irrigation of the

inn’s orchard, and use of organic ingredients as often as possible, this inn is doing quite a bit to be eco-friendly.

29 Ramsey Canyon Dr., Hereford, AZ 85615. www.ramseycanyoninn.com. 520/378-3010. Fax 520/378-0487. 8 units. $135–$160 double; $150 suite. Room rates include full breakfast (except in housekeeping suites). DISC, MC, V. No children 15 or under in inn, but children are accepted in suites. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C (in some), no phone.

CAMPGROUNDS

There are two Coronado National Forest campgrounds—14-site Reef Townsite

and 8-site Ramsey Vista—up winding Carr Canyon Road south of Sierra Vista

off Ariz. 92. However, in 2011, both campgrounds were closed after the Monu-

ment Fire. To find out if these campgrounds have reopened and to learn more

about forest conditions near the campgrounds, contact the Coronado National

Forest Sierra Vista Ranger District, 5990 S. Hwy. 92, Hereford, AZ 85615

( 520/378-0311; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado).

TOMBSTONE

70 miles SE of Tucson; 181 miles SE of Phoenix; 24 miles N of Bisbee

All it took was a brief blaze of gunfire more than 130 years ago to seal the fate of this former silver-mining boomtown. On these very streets, outside a livery stable 10

known as the O.K. Corral, Wyatt Earp, his brothers Virgil and Morgan, and their

S

friend Doc Holliday took on the outlaws Ike Clanton and Frank and Tom

OUTHERN

McLaury on October 26, 1881. Today, Tombstone, “the town too tough to die,”

is one of Arizona’s most popular attractions, but I’ll leave it up to you to decide

whether it is more of a tacky tourist trap or a genuine historical attraction.

Tombstone was named by Ed Schieffelin, a silver prospector who ventured

A

into this area at a time when the region’s Apaches were fighting to preserve their

RIZONA

way of life. Schieffelin was warned that all he would find here was his own tomb-

stone, so when he discovered silver, he named the strike Tombstone. Within a

few years, the town of Tombstone was larger than San Francisco, and between

1880 and 1887, an estimated $37 million worth of silver was mined here. Such

T

wealth created a sturdy little town, and as the Cochise County seat of the time,

ombstone

Tombstone boasted a number of

imposing buildings, including the

county courthouse, which is now

a state park. In 1887, underground

water flooded the silver mines,

and despite attempts to pump the

water out, the mines were never

reopened. With the demise of

the mines, the boom came to an

end and the population rapidly

dwindled.

Today, Tombstone’s historic

district consists of both original

buildings (built after an 1882 fire

A reenactment of the shootout at the O.K. Corral.

destroyed much of the town) and

487

newer structures built in keeping with the architectural styles of the late 19th

century. Most house souvenir shops and restaurants, but adults raised on Louis

L’Amour, John Wayne, and the outlaw aesthetic seem to love the town.

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Tucson, take I-10 east to Benson and then Ariz. 80

south to Tombstone. From Sierra Vista, take Ariz. 90 north to Ariz. 82, head-

ing east.

VISITOR INFORMATION For more information once you hit town, stop by the

Tombstone Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center, 395 E. Allen St.

( 888/457-3929 or 520/457-3929; www.tombstonechamber.com).

SPECIAL EVENTS Tombstone’s biggest annual celebrations are Wyatt Earp

Days (www.wyattearpdays.com), which is held in late May and includes an

1880s fashion show and plenty of gunfights, and, on the third weekend in

October, Helldorado Days (www.wyattearpdays.com), which commemo-

rates the gunfight at the O.K. Corral and includes events similar to those

held during Wyatt Earp Days.

Exploring Tombstone

As portrayed in novels, movies, and TV shows, the shootout has come to epito-

10 mize the Wild West, and nowhere is this great American phenomenon more glo-

rified than in Tombstone, where the star attraction is the famous O.K. Corral,

308 E. Allen St. ( 520/457-3456; www.ok-corral.com), site of a 30-second

gun battle that has taken on mythic proportions over the years. Inside the corral,

you’ll find not only displays on the shootout, but also an exhibit focusing on local photographer C. S. Fly, who ran the boardinghouse where Doc Holliday was staying at the time of the shootout. Next door is Tombstone’s Historama, a kitschy Tombstone multimedia affair that rehashes the well-known history of Tombstone’s “bad old days” and has a recorded narration by Vincent Price. The O.K. Corral and Tombstone’s Historama are open daily from 9am to 5pm, and admission is $6 (free for

kids 5 and under); for $10, you can visit both attractions and take in a shootout

reenactment almost on the very site of the original gunfight.

RIZONA A

If you aren’t able to catch one of the staged shootouts at the O.K. Corral

(daily at 2pm), don’t despair—there are plenty of other shootouts staged regularly

in Tombstone (usually between noon–4pm). Expect to pay $6 for adults, $4 for

seniors, and $3 for children at any of these shows. For a little fun and games, try

to catch the Tombstone Cowboys shootout at Helldorado Town, 339 S. Fourth

OUTHERNS

St. ( 520/955-3090). These shootouts, which are staged two to three times a

day, are more hysterical than historical.

When the smoke cleared in 1881, three men lay dead. They were later carted

off to the Boot Hill Graveyard, 408 N. Ariz. 80 ( 520/457-3300), on the north edge of town. The graves of Clanton and the McLaury brothers, as well as

those of others who died in gunfights or by hanging, are well marked. Entertaining

epitaphs grace the grave markers; among the most famous is that of Lester

Moore—“Here lies Lester Moore, 4 slugs from a 44, No Les, no more.” The cem-

etery is open to the public daily 8am to dusk. Enter through a gift shop on Ariz. 80.

When the residents of Tombstone weren’t shooting each other in the streets,

they were likely to be found in the saloons and bawdy houses that lined

Allen Street. Most famous was the Bird Cage Theatre, Allen and Sixth

488

streets ( 800/457-3423 or 520/457-

3421; www.tombstonebirdcage.com),

so named for the cagelike cribs (what

most people would think of as box

seats) suspended from the ceiling.

These velvet-draped cages were used

by prostitutes to ply their trade. For old

Tombstone atmosphere, this place is

hard to beat. Admission is $10 for

adults, $9 for seniors, $8 for children 8

to 18; the theater is open daily from

8am to 6pm.

When it’s time for a cold beer,

Tombstone has a couple of very lively

old saloons. The Crystal Palace

Saloon, 436 E. Allen St. ( 520/457-

3611; www.crystalpalacesaloon.com),

was built in 1882 and has been com-

A historic poster from the Bird Cage Theatre.

pletely restored. This is one of the

favorite hangouts of the town’s cos-

tumed actors and other would-be cowboys and cowgirls. Big Nose Kate’s, 417

E. Allen St. ( 520/457-3107; www.bignosekate.com), is an equally entertain-

ing spot full of Wild West character and characters.

10

Tombstone has long been a tourist town, and its streets are lined with sou-

S

venir shops selling wind chimes, dream catchers, and loads of cowboy souvenirs,

OUTHERN

and, of course, there are places where you can dress up in old-fashioned clothes

and get your picture taken. However, there are also several interesting little

museums around town. At the Rose Tree Museum, at Fourth and Toughnut

streets ( 520/457-3326), you can see the world’s largest rose tree. Inside are A

antique furnishings from Tombstone’s heyday in the 1880s. The museum is open

RIZONA

daily from 9am to 5pm (closed Thanksgiving and Christmas). Admission is $5

(free for children 13 and under).

Tombstone Courthouse State Park, 223 Toughnut St. ( 520/457-

3311; www.azstateparks.com), is the most imposing building in town and pro-

vides a much less sensationalized version of local history. Built in 1882, the

Tombstone

courthouse is now a state historic park and museum containing artifacts, photos,

and newspaper clippings that chronicle Tombstone’s lively past. In the courtyard,

you can still see the gallows that once ended the lives of outlaws. The park is

open daily from 9am to 5pm (closed on Christmas); the entrance fee is $5 for

adults and $2 for children 7 to 13.

At the Tombstone Epitaph Museum, Fifth Street between Allen and

Fremont streets ( 520/457-2211; www.tombstone-epitaph.com), you can

inspect the office of the town’s old newspaper and learn about John Clum, the

original editor of the paper. The museum is open daily from 9:30am to 5pm;

admission is free.

The Tombstone Western Heritage Museum , Fremont (Ariz. 80) and

Sixth streets ( 520/457-3800; www.thetombstonemuseum.com), a privately

owned museum, holds the town’s most fascinating collection of Tombstone arti-

facts and ephemera and should not be missed. Included in this impressive

489

collection are artifacts that once

belonged to Wyatt and Virgil Earp,

rare photos of the Earps and the out-

laws of Tombstone, and all kinds of

original documents that date to the

days of the shootout at the O.K.

Corral. The museum is open Mon-

day, Tuesday, and Thursday through

Saturday from 9am to 6pm and Sun-

day from 12:30 to 6pm; admission is

$5 for adults and $3 for children 12 Tombstone Western Heritage Museum.

to 18 ($13 for families).

For more Tombstone history, stop by the Wyatt Earp House & Gallery,

102 E. Fremont St. ( 520/457-3111; www.wyattearphouse.com), a tiny

adobe house that may once have been the home of Wyatt Earp and was lovingly

restored several years ago. The old house now serves as a small art gallery.

To further immerse yourself in Tombstone’s Wild West history, take a walk

around town with a guide from Tombstone Walking Tours ( 520/457-

9876; www.tombstonewalkingtours.com). Tours cost $15 for 1 hour and $25 for

2 hours. Alternatively, take a 20-minute stagecoach ride around the town’s his-

toric district ($10 for adults; $5 for children). Stagecoaches leave from in front of 10 the O.K. Corral.

To see some of the landscapes once roamed by the Earps and the Clantons,

get out of town on a Jeep tour. Tours are offered by Into the West Jeep Tours ( 520/559-2151 or 520/559-2228; www.intothewestjeeptours.com). Expect

to pay $45 to $125 for a tour (two-person minimum).

Where to Eat

Tombstone Unless you’re absolutely famished, do not eat in Tombstone. Hold out for Bisbee or even Sierra Vista. Restaurants in Tombstone cater exclusively to tourists, and

both food and service are reliably disappointing. Sure, there are a couple of bars

and a restaurant in historic buildings, but plastic chairs and burger baskets long

RIZONA

ago supplanted historic character.

A

Big Nose Kate’s Saloon AMERICAN The food here isn’t all that memora-

ble, but the atmosphere sure is. Big Nose Kate’s dates back to 1880 and is pri-

marily a saloon. As such, it stays packed with visitors who have come to revel in

Tombstone’s outlaw past. While you sip your beer, why not order a sandwich and

OUTHERNS

call it lunch? You might even catch some live country music.

417 E. Allen St. www.bignosekate.com. 520/457-3107. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$14. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–8:30pm.

Crystal Palace AMERICAN The food here may be pretty basic, but the set-

ting is the most impressive in town. The bar is a fairly authentic reproduction of

the original, and the wood floors have been pounded by countless cowboy boots.

While you sip your beer and munch your buffalo burger, you can entertain your-

self by trying to spot bullet holes in the pressed tin ceiling.

436 E. Allen St. www.crystalpalacesaloon.com. 520/457-3611. Reservations not accepted.

Main courses $5–$27. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–8pm.

490

Where to Stay

Apache Spirit Ranch Down a gravel road on the outskirts of Tombstone,

this guest ranch is built to resemble an old Western cow town. What with the

false-fronted buildings and the wind whistling in the mesquite, you can’t help but

want to walk bowlegged up “Main Street” with a six-gun strapped to your hip.

While other guest ranches strive to feel like working cattle operations, this place

goes for the Hollywood Western look. The dining room is a saloon that looks as if

it could have been frequented by Wyatt Earp, while guest rooms are spacious

enough and attractive enough to have kept Mrs. Earp happy. Horseback rides,

campfires, an Apache “camp,” Native American presentations, line dancing, and

live country music all add up to good times and a Wild West feel.

895 W. Monument Rd., Tombstone, AZ 85638. www.apachespiritranch.com. 877/404-7262

or 520/457-7299. Fax 520/457-7290. 17 units. $295–$335 double; $335–$395 suite. Rates do not include a 15% gratuity. Rates include all meals and horseback riding. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free airport transfer w/7-night stay; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool.

In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Holiday Inn Express Tombstone On the northern outskirts of Tombstone,

right next door to the older but slightly nicer Best Western, this is the newest

hotel in Tombstone. The decor draws on a bit of Southwestern and Spanish colo-

nial styling, but basically this is just a modern chain motel.

580 W. Randolph Way, Tombstone, AZ 85638. www.hitombstone.com. 800/315-2621 or

520/457-9507. Fax 520/457-9506. 60 units. $99–$139 double. Rates include continental bre- 10

akfast. Children 19 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: S

Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

OUTHERN

Landmark Lookout Lodge This comfortable motel is a mile north of town

overlooking the Dragoon Mountains. Stone walls, porcelain doorknobs, Mexican

tiles in the bathrooms, and old-fashioned “gas” lamps give the spacious guest

A

rooms an Old West feel. Ask for a room with a view of the mountains.

RIZONA

781 N. Hwy. 80 W., Tombstone, AZ 85638. www.magnusonhotels.com. 877/652-6772 or

520/457-2223. Fax 520/457-3870. 40 units. $98–$108 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 per night). Amenities: Seasonal outdoor pool.

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Bisbee

BISBEE

94 miles SE of Tucson; 205 miles SE of Phoenix; 24 miles NW of Douglas

Arizona has a wealth of ghost towns that boomed on mining profits and then

quickly went bust when the mines played out, but none is as impressive as Bis-

bee, which is built into the steep slopes of Tombstone Canyon on the south side

of the Mule Mountains. Between 1880 and 1975, Bisbee’s mines produced more

than $6 billion worth of metals. When the Phelps Dodge Company shut down its

copper mines here, Bisbee nearly went the way of other abandoned mining

towns, but because it’s the Cochise County seat, it was saved from disappearing

into the desert dust.

Bisbee’s glory days date from 100 years ago, and because the town stopped

growing in the early part of the 20th century, it is now one of the best-preserved

historic towns in the Southwest. Old brick buildings line narrow winding streets,

491

and miners’ shacks sprawl across the

hillsides above downtown. Television

and movie producers discovered these

well-preserved streets years ago, and

since then, Bisbee has doubled as New

York, Spain, Greece, Italy, and, of

course, the Old West.

The rumor of silver in “them thar

hills” is what first attracted prospectors

in 1877, and within a few years the dig-

gings attracted the interest of some

San Francisco investors, among them

Judge DeWitt Bisbee, for whom the

town is named. However, it was copper

and other less-than-precious metals

that would make Bisbee’s fortune.

With the help of outside financing,

large-scale mining operations were

begun in 1881 by the Phelps Dodge Bisbee is buzzing with bikers most weekends.

Company. By 1910, the population had

climbed to 25,000, and Bisbee was the largest city between New Orleans and

10 San Francisco. The town boasted that it was the liveliest spot between El Paso

and San Francisco—and the presence of nearly 50 saloons and bordellos along

Brewery Gulch backed up that claim.

Tucked into a narrow valley surrounded by red hills, Bisbee today has a

funky cosmopolitan air. Many artists call the town home, and aging hippies and

Bisbee other urban refugees have for many years been dropping out of the rat race to restore Bisbee’s old buildings and open small inns, restaurants, and galleries.

Between the rough edges left over from its mining days and this new fringe-cul-

ture atmosphere, Bisbee is one of Arizona’s most interesting towns. However, be

aware that Bisbee is not for everyone. It appeals mostly to young, hip travelers in

RIZONA

search of economical, and often somewhat eclectic, accommodations. On week-

A

ends, the rumble of motorcycles is a constant on Bisbee’s streets.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Bisbee is on Ariz. 80, which begins at I-10 in the town of Ben-

OUTHERNS

son, 45 miles east of Tucson.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Bisbee Visitor Center, 2 Copper Queen

Plaza ( 866/224-7233 or 520/432-3554; www.discoverbisbee.com).

SPECIAL EVENTS Bisbee puts on coaster races (similar to a soap-box derby)

on the Fourth of July. September’s Brewery Gulch Daze, a celebration of

Bisbee’s bawdy past, includes live music, a Miz Old Biz contest, and a pet

parade. In October, there is the Bisbee 1000: The Great Stair Climb, a

race up and down the town’s many public stairways.

Exploring Bisbee

At the Bisbee Visitor Center, in the middle of town, pick up walking-tour

brochures that guide you past the town’s most important historic buildings

and sites. On the second floor of the Copper Queen Library, 6 Main St.

492

( 520/432-4232), which is the oldest public library in Arizona, old photo-

graphs give a good idea of what the town looked like in the past century.

Don’t miss the Bisbee Mining & Historical Museum , 5 Copper

Queen Plaza ( 520/432-7071; www.bisbeemuseum.org), housed in the 1897

Copper Queen Consolidated Mining Company office building. This small but

comprehensive museum features exhibits on the history of Bisbee. It’s open daily

from 10am to 4pm; admission is $7.50 for adults, $6.50 for seniors, and $3 chil-

dren 15 and under.

For another look at early life in Bisbee, visit the Muheim Heritage House

Museum, 207 Youngblood Hill ( 520/432-7698; www.bisbeemuseum.org),

which is reached by walking up Brewery Gulch. The house was built in stages

between 1898 and 1915 and has an unusual semicircular porch. The interior is

decorated with period furniture. It’s open Friday through Tuesday from 10am to

4pm; admission is $4.

O.K. Street, which parallels Brewery Gulch but is high on the hill on the

southern edge of town, is a good place to walk for views of Bisbee. At the top of

O.K. Street is a path that takes you up to a hill above town for an even better pan-

orama of Bisbee’s jumble of old buildings. Atop this hill are numerous small, color-

fully painted shrines that are built into the rocks and filled with candles, plastic flowers, and pictures of the Virgin Mary. It’s a steep climb on a rocky, very uneven path, but the views and the fascinating little shrines make it worth the effort.

Mining made this town what it is, so you should be sure to take an under-

ground mine tour to find out what it was like to be a miner here in Bisbee. 10

Queen Mine Tours ( 866/432-2071 or 520/432-2071; www.queenmine

S

tour.com) takes visitors down into one of the town’s old copper mines. Tours are

OUTHERN

offered daily between 9am and 3:30pm and cost $13 for adults and $5.50 for

children 4 to 12. The ticket office and mine are just south of the Old Bisbee busi-

ness district at the Ariz. 80 interchange.

For an exploration of some of the steeper and narrower streets of Bisbee,

A

take a 90-minute tour ($44) of old Bisbee with Lavender Jeep Tours

RIZONA

( 520/432-5369; www.lavenderjeeptours.com). Several other tours are also

available. For a walk on the dark side, sign up for the Old Bisbee Ghost Tour

( 520/432-3308; www.oldbisbeeghosttour.com). These 90-minute tours are

offered Friday through Sunday nights at 7pm and cost $13 for adults and $11 for

children 11 and under.

Bisbee

Bisbee has lots of interesting stores and galleries, and shopping is the main

recreational activity here. Because turquoise is associated with copper mines,

and Bisbee’s mines once produced some of the most famous turquoise in the

country, you’ll see quite a bit of turquoise jewelry around town. To get a look at

some of the quality jewelry created from minerals mined in the area, stop by

A Golfer’s Nightmare

Beware the Bogeyman at the Turquoise

the few par-6 holes in the world. The

Valley Golf & RV Park, 1794 W. Newell

hole, called the Rattler, stretches for 747

St. ( 520/432-3091; www.turquoise

yards and is every golfer’s nightmare. A

valley.com), in nearby Naco. This little

round of golf here will run you between

public course dates to 1908, is the oldest

$30 and $40.

golf course in Arizona, and boasts one of

493

Czar Jewelry, 13 Main St. ( 520/

432-3027). In Jewelry Designs

by Owen, 45 Main St. ( 520/432-

4400; www.jewelrydesignsbyowen.

com), you’ll find lots of beautiful

jewelry in a wide range of styles.

Across the street, at the Gold

Shop, 46 Main St. ( 520/432-

4557), you’ll find lots of turquoise

set in gold instead of silver, which is

much more common.

If it’s art you’re after, you’ve got You’ll find vintage bikes at Bisbee Bicycle

lots of good galleries to visit here in Brothel.

Bisbee. You’ll find fanciful kinetic

sculptures and colorful paintings at Sam Poe Gallery, 24 Main St. ( 520/432-5338; www.sampoegallery.com). Right next door is PanTerra Gallery, 22 Main St. ( 520/432-3320; www.panterragallery.com), which sells both the photographs of co-owner Charles Feil and gorgeous women’s fashions and jewelry

selected by his wife, co-owner Maralyce Ferree. At Belleza Gallery, 27 Main St.

( 520/432-5877; www.bellezagallery.org), your art purchase will go to a good cause. The gallery is operated by a nonprofit organization that helps homeless

10 women in a substance-abuse treatment program. The 55 Main Gallery, 55 Main St. ( 520/432-4694; www.55maingallery.com), featuring contemporary art,

jewelry, furniture, and women’s fashions, is another of my favorite galleries in town.

Bicyclists should be sure to drop by the Bisbee Bicycle Brothel, 43 Brew-

ery Ave. ( 520/432-3339; www.bisbeebicyclebrothel.com), where cycling

Bisbee enthusiast Ken Wallace has a shop full of vintage road bikes, primarily from England and Italy. There are also some interesting modern bikes as well.

To protect your face from the burning rays of the sun (and make a fashion

statement), visit Optimo Custom Hat Works, 47 Main St. ( 520/432-

4544; www.optimohatworks.com), where owner Grant Sergot will custom-fit

RIZONA

your felt fedora, cowboy hat, or Panama straw hat. (By the way, Panama hats

A

actually come from Ecuador.)

Where to Eat

Café Cornucopia, 14 Main St. ( 520/432-4820), offers fresh juices,

OUTHERNS

smoothies, and sandwiches. It’s open Friday through Tuesday from 11am to 4pm.

For good coffee and a mining theme (there’s an old mining cart and photos of

miners on the walls), check out the Bisbee Coffee Co., Copper Queen Plaza,

Main Street ( 520/432-7879; www.bisbeecoffee.com). For gourmet picnic

supplies, peruse the shelves of the High Desert Market and Café, 203 Tomb-

stone Canyon Rd. ( 520/432-6775; www.highdesertmarket.net), which has

organic produce, imported cheeses, wine, and other assorted goodies for a great

picnic. There is also a cafe here that is a great place for breakfast or lunch. If

you’re a chocolate lover, do not miss Chocoláte, 134 Tombstone Canyon Rd.

( 520/432-3011; www.spiritedchocolate.com; open seasonally, call ahead), a

shop that makes chocolate bars and chocolate confections from cacao beans it

roasts right here in Bisbee. Be sure to try the Madagascar chocolate; it has a

unique flavor that may ruin you for any other chocolate. If chocolate just isn’t

enough to satisfy your sweet tooth, how about some honey? The Killer Bee

494

Guy, 20 Main St. ( 877/227-9338; www.killerbeeguy.com), is full of honeys and honey products.

Bisbee Breakfast Club AMERICAN In the Lowell district on the far

side of the Lavender Pit from old Bisbee, this huge diner is a locals’ favorite. Big breakfasts (served all day) are the specialty here, and the cinnamon rolls are legendary around town. At lunch, try the coffee-charred breast of chicken salad; it’ll

really wake up your taste buds.

75 Erie St. 520/432-5885. www.bisbeebreakfastclub.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $5.50–$8.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–3pm.

Bisbee Grille REGIONAL AMERICAN Located in the Art Deco Copper

Queen Plaza building at the bottom of Main Street, this is one of Bisbee’s best

casual restaurants. Not only is the food decent, but there are also large photo-

graphs of old Bisbee that give the place a lot of historic character. At lunch or

dinner, the buffalo burger is a good bet, as is the Caesar salad. Reliable dinner

entrees include several steaks and a variety of pasta dishes. Grab a seat by the

window for great people-watching.

2 Copper Queen Plaza. 520/432-6788. http://bisbeegrille.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main course $8–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Cafe Roka

NEW AMERICAN The food at Cafe Roka is so good that

it is reason enough for a visit to Bisbee. Casual and hip, this place is a real find in such an out-of-the-way town and offers good value as well as delicious and imagi- 10

natively prepared food. All meals include, for one fixed price, salad, soup, sorbet

intermezzo, and your choice of entree (different entrees are priced differently).

SOUTHERN

The grilled salmon with a Gorgonzola-dill crust and artichoke-and-portobello

lasagna are two of my favorites. The flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce

is an exquisite ending. Local artists display their works, and there is often live jazz on the weekend.

A

35 Main St. 520/432-5153. www.caferoka.com. Reservations highly recommended. Main RIZONA

courses $17–$24. AE, MC, V. Wed–Sat 5–9pm (closed Wed in summer; call to confirm).

Santiago’s MEXICAN Repeat after me: “Fish tacos and a margarita, please.”

That’s all you need to know or say when dining at Santiago’s. Order this perfect

pairing, and you’ll almost certainly leave the restaurant muy contento. This is a Bisbee

casual place, but don’t be surprised if, on a weekend night, someone sits down in

the corner and starts playing classical guitar music. You’ll find Santiago’s a couple of doors down from the Copper Queen Hotel at the start of Brewery Gulch.

1 Howell Ave. 520/432-1910. www.santiagosbisbee.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $9–$18. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Entertainment & Nightlife

For more than a century, Bisbee’s Brewery Gulch has been known for its many

bars. Although there aren’t nearly as many drinking establishments today as there

were 100 years ago, a few dive bars remain especially popular with the weekend

Harley-riding crowd from Tucson. For local microbrews, stop in at Old Bisbee

Brewing Company, 200 Review Alley ( 520/432-2739; www.oldbisbee

brewingcompany.com), a tiny place wedged into a cramped little space in Brew-

ery Gulch. They have a very good assortment of beers.

495

Where to Stay

MODERATE

Copper City Inn Operated by Fred Miller (bartender at Bisbee’s Cafe

Roka for nearly 2 decades) and his wife, Anita Fox, this inn boasts some of the

most attractive rooms in Bisbee. One room is done up with French antiques, and

another, dedicated to early-20th-century hotel designer Mary Jane Colter, has a

modern Art Deco styling. One suite has modern mission-style furnishings and a

full kitchen, while another has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a mix of mod-

ern and antique furniture. All the rooms have balconies overlooking Bisbee.

There’s allergy-barrier bedding, and “green” cleaning products are used. Which-

ever room you reserve, you’ll receive a complimentary bottle of wine upon check-

in. The Copper City Inn is a “self-service” sort of place; when you make your

reservation, you’ll be given the key code for the door to your room.

99 Main St., Bisbee, AZ 85603. www.coppercityinn.com. 520/432-1418 or 520/456-4254. 5

units. $125 double; $150 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Copper Queen Hotel Built in 1902 by the Copper Queen Mining Com-

pany and right in the center of town, this is the oldest continuously operating

hotel in Arizona. While the hotel is historic, it has not had a thorough restoration, 10 so it feels more like an old hotel than a historic hotel. The atmosphere is casual yet quite authentic with rooms opening off spacious hallways. Unfortunately, the

rooms vary considerably in size, and the smallest are so cramped that they really

aren’t comfortable for two people. Rooms also vary considerably in the quality of

the furnishings, so you should be sure to ask for a renovated room. The restau-

Bisbee rant’s food can be uneven, but out front is a pleasant terrace for alfresco dining.

And what would a mining-town hotel be without its saloon or ghosts (yes, they

say this place is haunted)?

11 Howell Ave. (P.O. Drawer CQ), Bisbee, AZ 85603. www.copperqueen.com. 520/432-2216.

Fax 520/432-3819. 53 units. $134–$217 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room.

RIZONA A AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

Letson Loft Hotel

Located up a flight of stairs, the Letson Loft Hotel

feels a bit like an old Italian villa and has some of the prettiest rooms in town.

High ceilings, original wood floors, antique furnishings, and plush beds with

OUTHERNS

great linens all add up to comforts and class rarely seen in this funky town. Book

one of the front rooms and you’ll have a front-row seat for watching the Main

Street action through bay windows. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room at the

back of the hotel or avail yourself of the bedside earplugs; Bisbee can be a bit

noisy at times. One of my favorite rooms has a huge skylight and another has a

claw-foot tub. There’s even a suite with a kitchen.

26 Main St. (P.O. Box 623), Bisbee, AZ 85603. www.letsonlofthotel.com. 877/432-3210 or 520/432-3210. 8 units. $115–$175 double; $140–$175 suite. Rates include continental breakfast.

AE, DISC, MC, V. No children 11 or under. Amenities: Concierge. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD

player, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

Canyon Rose Suites Located on the second floor of a commercial build-

ing just off Bisbee’s main street, this property offers spacious suites with full

496

kitchens, which makes it a good bet for longer stays. All units have hardwood

floors and high ceilings, and the works by local artists and the mix of contemporary and rustic furnishings give the place plenty of Bisbee character. Constructed on a

steep, narrow street, the building housing this lodging has an unusual covered

sidewalk, making it one of the more distinctive commercial buildings in town.

27 Subway at Shearer St. (P.O. Box 1915), Bisbee, AZ 85603. www.canyonrose.com. 866/296-7673 or 520/432-5098. 7 units. $99–$210 double. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Gym Club Suites While this building, dating from 1903, was originally an

exercise facility operated by the local mining company, you won’t be sleeping on

a treadmill if you book a room here. The building is now divided into very com-

fortable apartment-style suites with full kitchens and comfortable living rooms.

Some of the upper-floor rooms have skylights, while others have large windows

and, from some suites, good views over the rooftops of Bisbee. Some suites have

decks or balconies, and these are worth requesting during the warmer times of

year. Note that there is no daily maid service here.

39 Howell St. (P.O. Box 1655), Bisbee, AZ 85603. www.gymclubsuites.com. 520/234-5921. 16

units. $85–$200 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Shady Dell Trailer Court Yes, this really is a trailer court, but you’ll find

neither shade nor dell at the Shady Dell’s roadside location just south of the Lav-

ender Pit mine. What you will find are 10 vintage trailers, a 1947 Airporter bus 10

done in retro-Tiki style, and a 1947 Chris Craft yacht, all of which have been

lovingly restored. Although some of the trailers don’t have their own private bath-

SOUTHERN

rooms (a bathhouse is in the middle of the property), they do have all kinds of

vintage decor and furnishings—even tapes and records of period music and radio

shows. In trailers that have vintage TVs, there are DVDs of old movies. Make

reservations far in advance. There’s also a 1957 vintage diner on-site.

A

1 Old Douglas Rd., Bisbee, AZ 85603. www.theshadydell.com. 520/432-3567. 12 units. $55–

RIZONA

$145 per trailer (for 1–2 people). DISC, MC, V. No children 10 or under. Amenities: Restaurant.

In room: A/C, kitchen, no phone.

COCHISE COUNTY

Cochise County

Willcox: 81 miles E of Tucson; 192 miles SE of Phoenix; 74 miles N of Douglas

Although the towns of Bisbee, Tombstone, and Sierra Vista all lie within Cochise

County, much of the county is taken up by the vast Sulphur Springs Valley, which

is bounded by several mountain ranges. It is across this wide-open landscape that

Apache chiefs Cochise and Geronimo once rode. Gazing out across this country

today, it is easy to understand why the Apaches fought so hard to keep white set-

tlers out.

The Apaches first moved into this region of southern Arizona sometime in

the early 16th century. They pursued a hunting-and-gathering lifestyle that was

supplemented by raiding neighboring tribes for food and other booty. When the

Spanish arrived in the area, the Apaches acquired horses and became even more

efficient raiders. They attacked Spanish, Mexican, and eventually American set-

tlers, and despite repeated attempts to convince them to give up their hostile way

of life, the Apaches refused to change. Not long after the Gadsden Purchase of

1848 made Arizona U.S. soil, more people than ever began settling in the region.

497

The new settlers immediately became

the object of Apache raids, and eventu-

ally the U.S. Army was called in to put

an end to the attacks; by the mid-

1880s, the army was embroiled in a

war with Cochise, Geronimo, and the

Chiricahua Apaches.

Although the Chiricahua and Dra-

goon mountains, which flank the

Sulphur Springs Valley on the east

and west, respectively, are relatively

unknown outside the region, they offer

some of the Southwest’s most spectac-

ular scenery. Massive boulders litter

the mountainsides, creating fascinating

landscapes. The Chiricahua Mountains

are also a favorite destination of bird-

watchers, for it is here that the color-

fully plumed elegant trogon reaches the Sulphur Springs Valley.

northern limit of its range.

In the southern part of this region lies the town of Douglas, an important

10 gateway to Mexico. Unless you’re heading to Mexico, though, there aren’t many

reasons to visit. Yet if you do find yourself passing through Douglas, be sure to

stop at the historic Gadsden Hotel (see “Where to Stay,” later); the Slaughter

Ranch is also worth a visit.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Willcox is on I-10, with Ariz. 186 heading southeast toward

Chiricahua National Monument.

Cochise County VISITOR INFORMATION The Willcox Chamber of Commerce and Agricul-

ture, 1500 N. Circle I Rd. ( 800/200-2272 or 520/384-2272; www.

willcoxchamber.com), can provide information.

SPECIAL EVENTS Wings Over Willcox ( 800/200-2272; www.wingsover

willcox.com), a festival celebrating the annual return to the area of more

RIZONA A

than 40,000 sandhill cranes, takes place in January.

Exploring Willcox

Railroad Avenue in downtown Willcox is something of a little historic district.

OUTHERN

Here you’ll find the Rex Allen Museum, plus the restored Southern Pacific

S

Willcox Train Depot, 101 S. Railroad Ave., a redwood depot built in 1880.

Inside the old depot, which now serves as the Willcox city hall, is a small display

of historical Willcox photos. Also worth checking out is the Willcox Commer-

cial, 180 N. Railroad Ave. ( 520/384-2448), a general store that has been around since the days of Geronimo.

Rex Allen Arizona Cowboy Museum MUSEUM If you grew up in the

days of singing cowboys, then you’re probably familiar with Willcox’s favorite

hometown star: Rex Allen, who made famous the song “Streets of Laredo.” Allen

died in 1999, but his legend lives on here in Willcox. At the small museum dedi-

cated to him, you’ll find plenty of Allen memorabilia, as well as a Cowboy Hall of

498

Fame exhibit. The town celebrates Rex Allen Days every October. Next door to

this museum, you’ll find the small Friends of Marty Robbins Museum, 156

N. Railroad Ave. ( 520/766-1404; www.friendsofmartyrobbins.org), which is

open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm.

150 N. Railroad Ave. 877/234-4111 or 520/384-4583. www.rexallenmuseum.org. Admission $2

per person, $3 per couple, $5 per family. Daily 10am–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

WINE TOURING

Willcox is also becoming something of a wine-touring destination, with two tast-

ing rooms in downtown Willcox and others to the east and the south of town.

These are in addition to several wineries outside of town. My favorite local win-

ery operates the Keeling-Schaefer Vineyards Tasting Room, 154 N. Rail-

road Ave. ( 520/824-2500; www.keelingschaefervineyards.com), which has

its tasting room in town and its vineyards and winery southeast of town at the foot

of the Chiricahua Mountains. Keeling-Schaefer produces excellent syrah and

grenache from estate-grown grapes, and also does chardonnay and a rosé. The

tasting room is open Thursday through Sunday from 11am to 4pm, and the tast-

ing fee is $5. Also here in town, you’ll find the tasting room of Carlson Creek

Vineyard, 115 Railview Ave. ( 520/766-3000; www.carlsoncreek.com), which is across the railroad tracks from the Keeling-Schaefer tasting room and

produces primarily Rhone varietals. Currently, Eric Glomski, one of my favorite

Arizona winemakers, is making the wines for this little winery. The tasting room 10

is open Thursday through Sunday from 11am to 5pm, and tastings cost $7. About

S

15 minutes south of downtown, you can visit Zarpara Vineyard, 6777 S.

OUTHERN

Zarpara Lane ( 602/885-8903; www.zarpara.com), which has its tasting room

open Friday through Sunday from 11am to 5pm. This winery has not yet released

wins made from its own grape, but pours the wines of nearby Sand-Reckoner

Vineyards, and other Willcox area wineries.

A

On the site of a former country club, Coronado Vineyards, 2909 E.

RIZONA

Country Club Dr. ( 520/384-2993; www.coronadovineyards.com), is home

to some of the best value wines in the state. The winery produces a wide range of

wines, both dry and sweet, and most are priced between $10 and $20. The win-

ery is open Monday and Thursday from 9:30am to 8pm, Tuesday and Wednesday

from 9:30am to 5:30pm, Friday and Saturday from 9:30am to 9pm, and Sunday

Cochise County

from 10am to 4pm. There is also a restaurant here that is open Monday and

Thursday through Saturday evenings. The tasting fee is $7. To reach the winery

from Willcox, take exit 344 off I-10, turn right at the stop sign; go a 1⁄2 mile and turn left on Country Club Drive.

In the town of Bowie, 25 miles east of Willcox, you’ll find the tasting room

of Fort Bowie Vineyards, 156 N. Jefferson St. ( 888/299-5951; www.fort bowievineyards.net). This winery sells some very drinkable, inexpensive wines. It

also produces an unusual pecan-flavored sparkling wine and sells locally grown

pecans, pistachios, walnuts, and peaches. The tasting room is open daily from

8am to 4pm.

Exploring Southwest of Willcox

SCENIC LANDSCAPES

Although Chiricahua National Monument claims the most spectacular scenery

in this corner of the state, a couple of areas southwest of Willcox in the Dragoon

499

Mountains are almost as impressive. The first of these, Texas Canyon, lies right along I-10 between Benson and Willcox, and can really only be enjoyed from the

comfort of a speeding car. Huge boulders are scattered across this rolling desert

landscape.

South of the community of Dragoon, which is known for its pistachio farms,

lies a much less accessible area of the Dragoon Mountains known as Cochise

Stronghold (www.cochisestronghold.com). During the Apache uprisings of

the late 19th century, the Apache leader Cochise used this rugged section of the

Dragoon Mountains as his hideout and managed to elude capture for years. The

granite boulders and pine forests made it impossible for the army to track him

and his followers. Cochise eventually died and was buried at an unknown spot

somewhere within the area. This rugged jumble of giant boulders is reached by a

rough gravel road, at the end of which you’ll find a campground, a picnic area,

and hiking trails. For a short, easy walk, follow the .4-mile Nature Trail. For a

longer and more strenuous hike, head up the Cochise Trail. The Stronghold

Divide makes a good destination for a 6-mile round-trip hike. For more info, con-

tact the Coronado National Forest Douglas Ranger District, 1192 W. Sad-

dleview Rd., Douglas ( 520/364-3468; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado).

A MEMORABLE MUSEUM IN AN UNLIKELY LOCALE

Amerind Foundation Museum

MUSEUM It may be out-of-the-way

10 and difficult to find, but this museum is well worth seeking out. Established in

1937, the Amerind Foundation is dedicated to the study, preservation, and inter-

pretation of prehistoric and historical Indian cultures. To that end, the founda-

tion has compiled the nation’s finest private collection of archaeological artifacts and contemporary pieces. There are exhibits on the dances and religious ceremonies of the major Southwestern tribes and cases full of archaeological artifacts

amassed from the numerous Amerind Foundation excavations over the years.

Fascinating ethnology exhibits include amazingly intricate beadwork from the

Plains tribes, old Zuni fetishes, Pima willow baskets, old kachina dolls, 100 years

Cochise County of Southwestern tribal pottery, and Navajo weavings. The art gallery displays works by 19th- and 20th-century American artists, such as Frederic Remington,

whose paintings focused on the West. The small museum store has a surprisingly

good selection of books and Native American crafts.

RIZONA

2100 N. Amerind Rd., Dragoon. 520/586-3666. www.amerind.org. Admission $8 adults, $7

A

seniors, $5 college students and children 12–18, free for children 11 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–

4pm. Closed major holidays. Located 64 miles east of Tucson btw. Benson and Willcox; take the Dragoon Rd. exit (exit 318) from I-10 and continue 1 mile east.

OUTHERN

Exploring East of Willcox

S

If you’d like to explore the Chiricahua Mountains from the back of a horse, Blue

Sky Ranches ( 520/824-1660 or 818/726-5430; www.blueskyranches.com)

offers trail rides of anything from 1 hour ($40) to all day ($125).

Chiricahua National Monument

NATIONAL PARK Sea Captain,

China Boy, Duck on a Rock, Punch and Judy—these may not seem like appropri-

ate names for landscape features, but this is no ordinary landscape. These grav-

ity-defying rock formations—called “the land of the standing-up rocks” by the

Apache and the “wonderland of rocks” by the pioneers—are the equal of any of

Arizona’s many amazing rocky landmarks. Rank upon rank of monolithic giants

seem to have been turned to stone as they marched across the forested

500

Chiricahua Mountains. Some of

these rocks, including Big Bal-

anced Rock and Pinnacle Bal-

anced Rock, seem ready to come

crashing down at any moment.

Formed about 25 million years ago

by a massive volcanic eruption,

these rhyolite badlands were once

the stronghold of renegade

Apaches. If you look closely at

Cochise Head peak, you can even

see the famous chief’s profile. If

you’re in good physical condition,

don’t miss the chance to hike the

Chiricahua National Monument.

7.5-mile round-trip Heart of

Rocks Trail

, which can be

accessed from the visitor center or the Echo Canyon or Massai Point parking

areas. This trail leads through the most spectacular scenery in the monument. A

shorter loop is also possible. Within the monument are a visitor center, a camp-

ground, a picnic area, miles of hiking trails, and a scenic drive with views of many of the most unusual rock formations.

In 2011, the Horseshoe Two fire burned almost the entire Chiricahua

Mountain range, including much of the national monument. As you explore the 10

monument, you will see many signs of this devastating fire.

S

12856 E. Rhyolite Creek Rd. (off Ariz. 186), Willcox. 520/824-3560. www.nps.gov/chir. Admis-OUTHERN

sion $5 adults. Visitor center daily 8am–4:30pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. From Willcox, drive southeast on Ariz. 186 for 36 miles.

Fort Bowie National Historic Site HISTORIC SITE The Butterfield

A

Stage, which carried mail, passengers, and freight across the Southwest in the

RIZONA

mid-1800s, followed a route that climbed up and over Apache Pass, in the heart

of the Chiricahua Mountains’ Apache territory. In 1862, Fort Bowie was estab-

lished near the mile-high pass to ensure the passage of the slow-moving stage as

it traversed this difficult region. The fort was also used to protect the water

source for cavalry going east to fight the Confederate army in New Mexico. Later,

Cochise County

federal troops stationed at Fort Bowie battled Geronimo until, in 1886, the

Apache chief finally surrendered. Today, little more than Fort Bowie’s crumbling

adobe walls remain, but the hike along the old stage route to the ruins conjures

the ghosts of Geronimo and the Indian Wars.

3203 S. Old Fort Bowie Rd. (off Ariz. 186), Bowie. 520/847-2500. www.nps.gov/fobo. Free admission. Visitor center daily 8am–4:30pm; grounds daily dawn–dusk. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. From Willcox, drive southeast on Ariz. 186; after about 20 miles, watch for signs; it’s another 8 miles up a dirt road to the trailhead. Alternatively, drive east from Willcox to Bowie and go 13 miles south on Apache Pass Rd. From the trailhead, it’s a 1.5-mile hike to the fort.

Exploring the Douglas Area

The town of Douglas abounds in old buildings, and although not many are

restored, they hint at the diverse character of this community. Just across the

border from Douglas is Agua Prieta, in Sonora, Mexico, where Pancho Villa lost

his first battle. In Agua Prieta, whitewashed adobe buildings, old churches, and

501

sunny plazas provide a contrast to Douglas. At the Douglas Visitor Center, 345

E. 16th St. ( 520/417-7344; www.visitdouglas.com), pick up a map to the

town’s historic buildings, as well as a rough map of Agua Prieta.

Slaughter Ranch Museum HISTORIC HOME Down a dusty gravel

road outside Douglas lies a little-known Southwestern landmark: the Slaughter

Ranch. If you’re old enough, you may remember a Walt Disney TV show called

Texas John Slaughter. This was his spread. In 1884, former Texas Ranger John Slaughter bought the San Bernardino Valley and turned it into one of the finest

cattle ranches in the West. Slaughter later went on to become the sheriff of

Cochise County and helped rid the region of the unsavory characters who had

flocked to the many mining towns of this remote part of the state. Today, the

ranch is a National Historic Landmark and has been restored to its late-19th-

century appearance. Wide lawns surround the ranch buildings and a large pond

attracts a variety of birds, making this one of Arizona’s best winter birding spots.

For the-way-it-was tranquillity, this old ranch can’t be beat.

6153 Geronimo Trail, about 14 miles east of Douglas. 520/558-2474. www.slaughterranch.

com. Admission $8 adults, free for children 13 and under. Wed–Sun 10am–3pm. Closed New Year’s Day and Christmas. From Douglas, go east on 15th St., which runs into Geronimo Trail; continue east 14 miles.

Outdoor Activities: Birding Hot Spots

10 At the Willcox Chamber of Commerce, 1500 N. Circle I Rd. ( 800/200-

2272 or 520/384-2272; www.willcoxchamber.com), you can pick up several

birding maps and checklists for the region.

To the east of Chiricahua National Monument, on the far side of the Chir-

icahuas, lies Cave Creek Canyon, one of the most important bird-watching

spots in the United States. It’s here that the colorful elegant trogon reaches the

northern limit of its range. Other rare birds that have been spotted here include

sulfur-bellied flycatchers, and Lucy’s, Virginia’s, and black-throated gray war-

Cochise County blers. Stop by the visitor center for information on the best birding spots in the area. Cave Creek Canyon is just outside the community of Portal. In summer,

the canyon can be reached from the national monument by driving over the Chir-

icahuas on graded gravel roads. In winter, you’ll likely have to drive around the

mountains, which entails going south to Douglas and then 60 miles north to

RIZONA

Portal or north to I-10, and then south 35 miles to Portal. While the Horseshoe

A

Two fire of 2011 did extensive damage throughout the Chiricahua Mountains,

the Cave Creek and Portal areas were relatively unscathed by the fire.

The Cochise Lakes (actually, the Willcox sewage ponds) are another great

bird-watching spot. Birders can see a wide variety of waterfowl and shorebirds,

OUTHERNS

including avocets and ibises. To find the ponds, head south out of Willcox on

Ariz. 186, turn right onto Rex Allen, Jr. Drive at the sign for the Twin Lakes golf

course, and go past the golf course.

Between October and March, as many as 40,000 sandhill cranes gather in

the Sulphur Springs Valley south of Willcox, and in January, the town holds the

Wings Over Willcox festival (www.wingsoverwillcox.com), a celebration of

these majestic birds. There are a couple of good places in the area to see sandhill

cranes during the winter. Southwest of Willcox on U.S. 191 near the community

of Cochise and the Apache Generating Station electricity-generating plant, you’ll

find the Apache Station Wildlife Viewing Area. About 60 miles south of

Willcox, off U.S. 191 near the town of Elfrida, is the Whitewater Draw

502

Wildlife Area. To reach this latter

area, go south from Elfrida on Central

Highway, turn right on Davis Road,

and in another 21⁄2 miles, turn left on

Coffman Road and continue 2 miles.

The last 2 miles are on a dirt road that

should be avoided after rainfall. The

Sulphur Springs Valley is also well

Wings Over Willcox celebrates the masses of

known for its large wintering popula-

sandhill cranes that gather in the Sulphur

Springs Valley.

tion of raptors, including ferruginous

hawks and prairie falcons.

Near Douglas, the Slaughter Ranch, which has a large pond, and the adja-

cent San Bernardino National Wildlife Refuge are good birding spots in

both summer and winter. (See the description of the Slaughter Ranch Museum,

above, for directions.)

North of Willcox, at the end of a 30-mile gravel road, lies the Muleshoe

Ranch Cooperative Management Area ( 520/212-4295; www.nature.

org), a 49,000-acre Nature Conservancy preserve that contains seven perennial

streams. These streams support endangered aquatic life as well as riparian zones

that attract a large number of bird species. To get here, take exit 340 off I-10 and go south; turn right on Bisbee Avenue and then right again onto Airport Road.

After 15 miles, watch for a fork in the road and take the right fork. If the road is dry, it is usually passable in a passenger car. In May and from September to Feb- 10

ruary, the headquarters, which includes the visitor center, is open Thursday

S

through Monday from 8am to 5pm (Mar–Apr daily and June–Aug Sat–Sun only).

OUTHERN

From late September through May, overnight accommodations in casitas ($125–

$195 double) are available by reservation (2-night minimum, 3-night minimum

on holidays). Casita guests have access to hot springs on the grounds.

A

Where to Eat

RIZONA

IN WILLCOX

Rodney’s BARBECUE Willcox doesn’t have much in the way of good res-

taurants, but if you’re a fan of barbecue, you’ll want to schedule a stop at Rod-

ney’s. This hole in the wall near the Rex Allen Museum is so nondescript that you

Cochise County

can easily miss it. Inside, you’ll find Rodney Brown, beaming with personality

and dishing up lip-smackin’ barbecued pork sandwiches and plates of pork bar-

becue, shrimp, and catfish. Be sure to ask Rodney about the park across the

street, which he looked after for many years.

118 N. Railroad Ave. 520/507-0855. Main courses $3–$10. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 11am–8pm.

Where to Stay

IN & NEAR WILLCOX

Cochise Stronghold, A Canyon nature Retreat

Set on 5 acres

of private land within Coronado National Forest’s Cochise Stronghold area, this

remote and beautiful B&B is one of my favorites in the state. The inn is an energy-efficient, passive solar home with two housekeeping suites. It makes a superb base

for hikes amid the area’s fascinating rock formations and for excursions farther

afield in Cochise County. Innkeeper Nancy Yates is a great source of information

503

both on solar-home design and on the preservation of desert. In-room breakfast

options include Southwestern dishes such as mesquite-cornmeal pancakes that are

made with flour produced by grinding mesquite-bean pods. For a “luxury” camping

experience, stay in the inn’s yurt. This inn is a great choice for bird-watching trips.

2126 W. Windancer Trail (P.O. Box 232), Pearce, AZ 85625. www.cochisestrongholdbb.com.

877/426-4141 or 520/508-2368. $179–$209 double; $129 yurt. Rates include full breakfast.

2-night minimum stay. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; Jacuzzi. In room (but not in yurt): A/C, TV/VCR, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi.

Sunglow Guest Ranch

Located in the western foothills of the Chir-

icahua Mountains, roughly 40 miles southeast of Willcox, this remote ranch is

surrounded by Coronado National Forest and is one of the most idyllic spots in

the state. Guests can star gaze, hike the ranch’s trails, ride mountain bikes, and

even paddle a canoe on the ranch pond. There’s also great bird-watching both on

the ranch and in the nearby hills. Horseback riding can also be arranged for an

additional charge. The guest rooms are quite large, and decor includes rustic Mex-

ican furnishings. Two of the units have wood-burning fireplaces. The beautiful

little dining hall/cafe here, built in classic Western-ranch style, serves some of the best food in southeastern Arizona. The ranch does a great deal to be eco-friendly.

14066 S. Sunglow Rd., Pearce, AZ 85625. www.sunglowranch.com. 866/786-4569 or 520/824-3334. 11 units. $279–$449 double. Rates include breakfast and dinner. 2-night minimum. AE, DC, 10 DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night). Amenities: Dining room; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: Fridge, hair dryer, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

IN DOUGLAS

Gadsden Hotel Built in 1907, the Gadsden is listed on the National Register

of Historic Places. The marble lobby, though dark, is a classic. Vaulted stained-

glass skylights run the length of the ceiling, and above the landing of the Italian

marble stairway is a genuine Tiffany window. Although the carpets in the halls

are well-worn and rooms aren’t always spotless, many units have been renovated

Cochise County and refurnished. The bathrooms are, however, a bit worse for wear. The lounge is a popular local hangout, with more than 200 cattle brands painted on the walls.

1046 G Ave., Douglas, AZ 85607. www.hotelgadsden.com. 520/364-4481. Fax 520/364-

4005. 160 units. $60–$85 double; $100–$150 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($15 per RIZONA

night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.

A

IN PORTAL

Portal Peak Lodge, Portal Store & Cafe This motel-like lodge, located

behind the general store/cafe in the hamlet of Portal, has fairly modern guest

OUTHERN

rooms that face one another across a wooden deck. Meals are available in the

S

adjacent cafe. If you’re seeking predictable accommodations in a remote loca-

tion, you’ll find them here.

2358 S. Rock House Rd., Portal, AZ 85632. www.portalpeaklodge.com. 520/558-2223. 20

units. $85 double; $120 cottage. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, no phone, free Wi-Fi.

Southwestern Research Station, The American Museum of Natural

History Located in Cave Creek Canyon, this is a field research station that

takes guests when the accommodations are not filled by scientists doing research.

As such, it is the best place in the area for serious bird-watchers, who will find

the company of researchers a fascinating addition to a visit. Guests stay in simply

504

furnished cabins scattered around the research center. In 2012, nine of the cab-

ins were remodeled, and you should try to get one of these. Spring and fall are the

easiest times to get reservations and the best times for bird-watching. Note that

there is no cell phone coverage here.

2003 W. Cave Creek Rd. (P.O. Box 16553), Portal, AZ 85632. www.research.amnh.org/swrs. 520/

558-2396. Fax 520/558-2018. 12 units. Mar–Oct $190 double (rate includes all meals); Nov–Feb $60–$80 double (no meals provided). Children 3 and under stay free in parent’s room. DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi. In room: Kitchen (in most units), no phone.

CAMPGROUNDS

The 22-site Bonita Canyon Campground in Chiricahua National Monument

(described earlier), on Ariz. 186 ( 520/824-3560), charges $12 per night.

Along the road to Portal not far from the national monument, there are several

small national forest campgrounds. Some are free and some charge $10 for a site.

Note that the Horseshoe Two fire in 2011 caused extensive damage to the forests

of the Chiricahua Mountains, so be sure to enquire as to the status of camp-

grounds and roads before planning a camping trip in this area. At Cochise

Stronghold, 35 miles southwest of Willcox off U.S. 191, a 10-site campground charges $10 per night. For information on the national forest campgrounds, contact the Coronado National Forest Douglas Ranger District, 1192 W. Saddleview

Rd., Douglas, AZ 85607 ( 520/364-3468; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado). Res-

ervations are not accepted for these campgrounds.

10

Side Trips: The Safford Area & Mount Graham

S

Roughly 50 miles north of Willcox, off U.S. 191 in a unit of Coronado National

OUTHERN

Forest, rise the Pinaleño Mountains and 10,717-foot Mount Graham, a favorite summer-vacation spot for desert dwellers. Here you’ll find campgrounds, hiking

trails, and an astronomical observatory (see the box “Starry, Starry Nights,” earlier in this chapter). This observatory, funded partly by the University of Arizona and

A

partly by the Vatican, was built despite concerns that the mountaintop was the

RIZONA

last remaining habitat of 400 endangered Mount Graham red squirrels.

To the northwest of Mount Graham, at the end of a 45-mile gravel road, is the

Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness, through which flows the perennial Aravaipa

Creek. This scenic canyon is bordered on both ends by the Nature Conservancy’s

Cochise County

Aravaipa Canyon Preserve. Together these natural areas protect Arizona’s

healthiest population of native desert fish species, as well as cougars, desert big-

horn sheep, bobcats, and 200 species of birds. Permits, which are required for hik-

ing in the canyon, can be requested from the Bureau of Land Management,

Safford Field Office, 711 14th Ave., Safford, AZ 85546 ( 928/348-4400; www.

blm.gov/az/st/en/arolrsmain/aravaipa.html), 13 weeks in advance of your visit

(spring and fall are the most difficult times to get reservations).

Not far from the turnoff for Mount Graham and just south of Safford, you’ll

find Roper Lake State Park, 101 E. Roper lake Rd. ( 928/428-6760; www.

azstateparks.com), which has a hot spring, a campground, rustic rental cabins

($55 per night), and a lake with a swimming beach. The day-use fee is $7 per car;

camping costs $15 to $23. There’s good bird-watching here and at the nearby

Dankworth Pond (where you’ll find a nature trail and an outdoor exhibit on the

various Native American cultures that used this site in centuries past). The state

park is off U.S. 191, about 6 miles south of Safford; the Dankworth Pond site is

another 3 miles south.

505

HEADIN’ DOWN THE SALSA TRAIL

With more than a dozen Mexican restau-

Safford ( 928/428-4134), is the chalaca,

rants (several of which have been in busi-

which is a fried corn masa bowl filled with

ness since the 1950s) and farms that grow

beans and beef cooked with red or green

chile peppers, the Safford area has come

chilies. Annually in late September, there’s

to bill itself as Arizona’s Salsa Trail. Stop

SalsaFest, a celebration of the spicy Mexi-

at Thatcher’s La Casita, 3338 W. Main St.

can sauce. As part of the festival, there’s a

( 928/428-1882), on a Tuesday for a

salsa-making competition and a jalapeño-

green-chile burrito served enchilada style

eating contest. To learn more about

or any day of the week. At Casa Mañana,

Arizona’s Salsa Trail and the many restau-

502 S. First Ave., Safford ( 928/428-

rants along the trail, visit www.salsatrail.

3170), you can get a Sonoran enchilada

com or contact the Graham County

made with a corn masa patty. The spe-

Chamber of Commerce (see below).

cialty at El Charro, 601 W. Main St.,

In this same area is the Kachina Hot Springs Mineral Spa, 1155 W.

Cactus Rd. ( 928/428-7212; http://kachinamineralsprings.com), 6 miles

south of Safford. Visitors can soak in hot mineral waters, enjoy a sweat wrap, and

10 get a massage. A 30-minute soak costs $10; treatments range from $45 for a

15-minute soak, foot reflexology, and a 30-minute wrap to $100 for a soak, wrap,

foot reflexology, and 1-hour massage. Just around the corner is Essence of

Tranquility, 6074 S. Lebanon Loop ( 928/428-9312; www.azhotmineral spring.com), a more rustic establishment that has cement-lined hot tubs and

offers similar services. Use of tubs is $5 per person for 1 hour; 1-hour massages

go for $65. Tubs are available Monday from 2 to 9pm, Tuesday through Saturday

from 8am to 9pm, and Sunday from 8am to 7pm.

Just south of Safford off U.S. 191, you’ll find Eastern Arizona College’s

Cochise County Discovery Park Campus, 1651 W. Discovery Park Blvd. ( 928/428-6260; www.eac.edu/discoverypark), an interesting stop for both kids and adults. This

science park includes the Gov Aker Observatory, which is home to one of the

world’s largest camera obscuras (a dark room inside of which views of the out-

RIZONA

doors can be seen projected on a wall). The observatory also has a 20-inch tele-

A

scope that is available for public use and a space-flight simulator ride that is one of the park’s top attractions. A marsh offers good birding opportunities. The park

is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm and Saturday from 4 to 9:30pm;

admission is free.

OUTHERN

Twenty miles northeast of Safford off U.S. 70, you’ll come to the Gila Box

S

Riparian National Conservation Area ( 928/348-4400; www.blm.gov/az/

st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/ncarea/gbox.html), a popular hiking area on BLM

land. As at Aravaipa Canyon, this area preserves the landscape around a peren-

nial stream, in this case the upper reaches of the Gila River. There is no fee to

hike the area.

For more information on the Safford area, contact the Graham County

Chamber of Commerce, 1111 Thatcher Blvd., Safford, AZ 85546 ( 888/

837-1841 or 928/428-2511; www.graham-chamber.com), or the Bureau of

Land Management, Safford Field Office, 711 14th Ave., Safford, AZ 85546

( 928/348-4400; www.blm.gov/az/st/en/fo/safford_field_office.html).

506

11

ARIZONA’S

“WEST

COAST”

11 You probably think that the West Coast is over there by Los

Angeles and San Diego. Well, that may be true, but Ari-

zona also has a “west coast” of sorts. Separating Arizona

from California and Nevada are 340 miles of Colorado

n Arizona

River waters, most of which are impounded in three huge

ester

reservoirs—Lake Mead, Lake Mohave, and Lake Havasu—that provide

water and electricity to such sprawling Southwest boomtowns as Phoenix

and Las Vegas.

It is because of all this water that the region has come to be known as Arizona’s

West Coast, and it is to the waters of this inland “coast” and its thousands of miles ravel Experiences in W

of shoreline that boaters, water-skiers, and anglers head throughout the year.

While the Colorado River has always been the lifeblood of this rugged

region, it was not water that first attracted settlers, but the prospect of finding

gold. People are still venturing into this region in hopes of striking it rich, but now The Best T they head across the river from Bullhead City, Arizona, to the casinos in Laugh-

”

lin, Nevada, where a miniature version of Las Vegas has grown up on the banks

of the Colorado.

Laughlin and Bullhead City aren’t the only towns in this area with an abun-

OAST C dance of waterfront accommodations. As with any warm coastline, Arizona’s West Coast is lined with lakefront resorts, hotels, RV parks, and campgrounds. For the

EST

most part, it’s a destination for desert residents, so you won’t find any hotels or

“W

resorts even remotely as upscale or expensive as those in Phoenix, Tucson, or

’S

Sedona. There are, however, plenty of houseboats for rent. With a houseboat, you

can get away from the crowds, dropping anchor and kicking back when you find a

remote cove, the best fishing, or the most spectacular views. You can even house-

RIZONA

boat to London Bridge, which is no longer falling down, but rather bridges a back-

A

water of Lake Havasu and is now one of Arizona’s biggest tourist attractions.

THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

IN WESTERN ARIZONA

Having a dam good time at Hoover Dam: Spanning a narrow gorge on the

lower Colorado River, Hoover Dam is the tallest concrete dam in the United

States. See p. 511.

Floating through Black Canyon: Whether you float this scenic canyon on a

guided tour or paddle a canoe or kayak through it, Black Canyon is one of the

most rugged and scenic stretches of river along Arizona’s “west coast.” See

p. 512.

Exploring the Topock Gorge: You can roar through it on a jet boat or paddle

it quietly in a canoe or kayak, and either way, you’ll be impressed with the

desert scenery and ancient petroglyphs. See p. 516.

previous page: Arizona’s London Bridge.

508

Lake

Las

Mead

Vegas

GRAND CANYON

Temple Bar

Western

NATIONAL

iver

Meadview

Hoover

PARK

Arizona

R

Dam

Lake Mead National

o

Grand

d

Recreation Area

a

0

30 mi

Canyon

West

0

30 km

Color

NEVADA

93

Dolan

HUALAPAI INDIAN

Springs

RESERVATION

95

Lake

Peach Springs

Mohave

Chloride

Valentine

66

Katherine

66 Hackberry

Seligman

Landing

68

40

To Flagstaff

Bullhead

Kingman

Ash Fork

Laughlin

City

Oatman

Yucca

95

40

89

Needles

PRESCOTT

Wikieup

NATIONAL

Lake

93

FOREST

Havasu

Flagstaff

Lake Havasu City

Prescott

ARIZONA

Area of

Phoenix

Bill Williams

detail

NWR

Alamo Lake

Tucson

State Park

Yarnell

93

Parker

Buckskin Mountain

Congress

State Park

iver

71

Wickenburg

Bouse

Aguila

CALIFORNIA

95

72

Bouse

Fisherman

60 Wenden

60

olorado R

Quartzsite

Hope

C Ehrenberg

10

Sun City

Palm Canyon

To Phoenix

Cibola

Kofa

Wintersburg

NWR

95

National

Buckeye

Wildlife

Arlington

Refuge

85

Imperial

Painted Rocks

NWR

GILA RIVER

Petroglyph Site

INDIAN RESERVATION

Gila Bend

Sentinel

Dateland

85

Yuma

Tacna

To Tucson

8

To Organ

Pipe Cactus

National

San Luis

Monument

BARRY M. GOLDWATER AIR FORCE RANGE

Ajo

MEXICO

509

11

Walking across the London Bridge: As bridges go, the London Bridge,

which dates to 1831, is not particularly impressive, but the fact that it is here

in Arizona and not spanning the Thames River makes it a novelty too curious

ea

to avoid. See p. 515.

Spending an afternoon at the Nellie E Saloon: Arizona has its share of out-

of-the-way drinking establishments, but none is as out there as this place. The

eation Ar

Nellie E is in the middle of the desert, down a long gravel road, but on week-

ends, it’s packed with retirees drinking beer and eating burgers. See p. 519.

LAKE MEAD NATIONAL

RECREATION AREA

70 miles NW of Kingman; 256 miles NW of Phoenix; 30 miles SE of Las Vegas, NV

Lake Mead National Recreation Area, which includes Lake Mead, Lake Mohave,

Lake Mead National Recr and a scenic, free-flowing stretch of the Colorado River, straddles the border between Arizona and Nevada and is a vast watersports playground. Throughout

”

the year, anglers fish for striped bass, rainbow trout, channel catfish, and other

sport fish, while during the hot summer months, Lake Mead and Lake Mohave

OAST

attract tens of thousands of water-skiers and personal watercraft riders.

C

Lake Mead, the larger of the

EST

two reservoirs, was created by Hoover

Dam, which was built between 1931

“W

and 1935 and was the first major dam

’S

on the Colorado River. By supplying

huge amounts of electricity and water

to Arizona and California, it set the

RIZONAA

stage for the phenomenal growth the

region experienced in the latter half

of the 20th century. Dropping water

levels have forced the issue of water

conservation on surrounding com-

munities, but rest assured that there

is still plenty of water in the lakes to

float your boat.

Hoover Dam.

Essentials

GETTING THERE U.S. 93, which runs between Las Vegas and Kingman and

long ran across the top of Hoover Dam, connects Nevada and Arizona via

the Colorado River Bridge, which opened in late 2010. On either side of the

river, small secondary roads lead to various marinas on Lake Mead, and

there are also many miles of unpaved roads within the recreation area. If you

have a high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicle, these roads can take you

to some of the least visited shores of the two lakes.

VISITOR INFORMATION For information, contact the Lake Mead National

Recreation Area, 601 Nevada Way, Boulder City, NV 89005 ( 702/293-

8906; www.nps.gov/lame), or stop by the Alan Bible Visitor Center

( 702/293-8990), between Hoover Dam and Boulder City. The visitor

center is open daily from 8am to 4:30pm (closed New Year’s Day, Thanks-

giving, and Christmas).

510

Exploring Lake Mead 11

National Recreation

ARIZONA

Area

Standing 726 feet tall, from bedrock

to the roadway atop it, and tapering

’

from a thickness of 660 feet at its

S “W

base to only 45 feet at the top,

Hoover Dam ( 866/730-9097

EST

or 702/494-2517; www.usbr.gov/lc/

C

hooverdam) is the tallest concrete

OAST

dam in the Western Hemisphere.

Boating on Lake Mead.

Behind this massive dam lie the

”

waters of Lake Mead, which at 110

miles long and with a shoreline of more than 550 miles is the largest artificial lake Lake Mead National Recr

in the United States. To learn about the construction of Hoover Dam, stop in at

the visitor center, which is beside the dam on U.S. 94 and is open daily from 9am

to 6pm in summer and until 5pm in other months (closed Thanksgiving and

Christmas). Admission is $8 for anyone over age 3, and guided tours of the dam

cost $11 for adults, $9 for seniors and children 4 to 16. Tickets, which include

visitor center admission, can be purchased online. More extensive tours of the

dam cost $30, and are offered only on a nonreservation basis. Parking is an addi-

tional $7. Including a tour, it takes about 2 hours to visit the dam.

To get a good feel for the immensity of the Hoover Dam, walk out on the

eation Ar

Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge (Colorado River Bridge).

The bridge, which opened in late 2010, is almost as much of an engineering mar-

vel as the dam itself. High walls prevent drivers crossing the bridge from ogling

ea

the dam and slowing traffic, but pedestrians get their own walkway, complete

with numerous interpretive plaques. Pedestrian bridge access is from a parking

area on the Nevada side of the bridge, via a long flight of steps or an even longer

wheelchair-accessible ramp.

Note: To visit Hoover Dam or the Colorado River Bridge, you will have to pass through the Hoover Dam Inspection Checkpoint, which is in Nevada 1 mile

north of the dam.

If you’d like to tour the lake, call Lake Mead Cruises ( 702/293-6180;

www.lakemeadcruises.com) to book passage on the Desert Princess paddle-

wheeler. These cruises leave from Lake Mead Cruises Landing, off Lakeshore

Road on the Nevada side of Hoover Dam. Day tours, which go to the dam, last

11⁄2 hours and cost $24 for adults and $12 for children 2 to 11. Other options

include dinner cruises ($49 for adults, $25 for children) and brunch cruises ($39

for adults, $18 for children).

Outdoor Activities

One of the most interesting ways to see remote parts of Lake Mohave is by sea

kayak. Desert River Outfitters ( 888/529-2533; www.desertriveroutfitters.

com) will rent you a boat and shuttle you and your gear to and from put-ins and

take-outs. The trip through Black Canyon ($60 per person with a four-person

minimum) starts at the base of Hoover Dam and is the most interesting route.

Along this incredibly scenic stretch of narrow canyon, you’ll pass hot springs and

little water-filled caves that you can paddle into. ( Note: This trip requires 511

11 advance planning because a permit is necessary.) You can also paddle past the

casinos in Laughlin ($35 for adults, $15 for children ages 6 to 15), through the

Topock Gorge ($50), or around Lake Mohave ($35). Raft trips through Black

ea

Canyon are offered by Black Canyon River Adventures ( 800/455-3490;

www.blackcanyonadventures.com). The 1-day rafting trips, on big motorized

rafts, are an easy float through a scenic canyon and cost $88 for adults, $83 for

eation Ar

children ages 13 to 15, and $54 for children ages 5 to 12. If you’re not a paddler,

this is a great way to see this remote stretch of river—it’s definitely a highlight of a visit to this corner of the state.

As you would expect, swimming, fishing, water-skiing, sailing, windsurfing,

and powerboating are the most popular activities in Lake Mead National Recre-

ation Area. On Arizona shores, there are swimming beaches at Lake Mohave’s

Katherine Landing (outside Bullhead City) and Lake Mead’s Temple Bar (north

of Kingman off U.S. 93). Picnic areas can be found at these two areas, as well as

at Willow Beach on Lake Mohave and at more than half a dozen spots on the

Nevada side of Lake Mead.

Lake Mead National Recr

Fishing for monster striped bass (up to 50 lb.) is one of the most popular

”

activities on Lake Mead, and although Lake Mohave’s striped bass may not reach

these awesome proportions, fish in the 25-pound range are not uncommon.

Largemouth bass and even rainbow trout are plentiful in the national recreation

OAST C area’s waters due to the diversity of habitats. Try for big rainbows in the cold waters that flow out from Hoover Dam through Black Canyon and into Lake

EST

Mohave. To fish from shore, you’ll need a license from either Arizona or Nevada

“W

(depending on which shore you’re fishing from). To fish from a boat, you’ll need

’S

a license from one state and a special-use stamp from the other. Most Lake Mead

marinas sell both licenses and stamps.

The season for striped bass starts around the beginning of April, when the

RIZONA

water begins to warm up. If you don’t have your own boat, try fishing from the

A

shore of Lake Mohave near Davis Dam, where the water is deep. You can get

bait, tackle, licenses, and fishing tips at the Lake Mohave Resort and Marina,

2690 E. Katherine Spur Rd. ( 928/754-3245; www.sevencrown.com), at

Katherine Landing, which is near Bullhead City.

In Arizona, marinas can be found at Katherine Landing on Lake Mohave

(just outside Bullhead City), near the north end of Lake Mohave at Willow

Beach (best access for trout angling), and at Temple Bar on Lake Mead. There’s

also a boat ramp at South Cove, north of the community of Meadview at the east

end of Lake Mead. This latter boat ramp is the closest to the Grand Canyon end

of Lake Mead. On the Nevada side of Lake Mohave, there’s a marina at Cotton-

wood Cove, and on the Nevada side of Lake Mead, you’ll find marinas at Boulder

Beach, Las Vegas Bay, Callville Bay, and Echo Bay. These marinas offer motels,

restaurants, general stores, campgrounds, and boat rentals. At Temple Bar

Resort & Marina ( 800/255-5561 or 928/767-3211; www.templebarlake mead.com), you can rent speedboats, fishing boats, and patio boats for $210 to

$525 per day and a personal watercraft for $350 per day. At Lake Mohave

Resort ( 800/752-9669 or 928/754-3245), you can rent ski boats, fishing boats, and patio boats for between $90 and $260 per day and a personal watercraft for $225 to $275 per day.

Unlike these other two marinas, Willow Beach Marina, Willow Beach

Road ( 928/767-4747; www.willowbeachharbor.com), 14 miles south of

Hoover Dam (56 miles north of Kingman), is on a free-flowing stretch of the

512

Colorado River downstream from Black Canyon. The river here is one of the 11

prettiest stretches of the Colorado between Hoover Dam and Yuma. If you want

to explore this scenic stretch of river on your own, you can rent a canoe ($15 per

ARIZONA

hour), kayak ($10 to $20 per hour), or motorboat ($25 to $50 per hour). On Sun-

days and Mondays throughout the year, motorboats are prohibited on this stretch

of the river.

Despite the area’s decidedly watery orientation, there’s quite a bit of moun-

’S “W

tainous desert here that’s home to bighorn sheep, roadrunners, and other wild-

life. This land was also once home to several indigenous tribes, and petroglyphs

EST

scratched into rocks are reminders of the people who lived here before the first

C

European settlers arrived. The best place to see petroglyphs is Grapevine Can-

OAST

yon, due west of Laughlin, Nevada, in the southwest corner of the National Rec-

reation Area. To reach Grapevine Canyon, take Nev. 163 west from Laughlin to

”

milepost 13 and turn right on the marked dirt road. From the highway, it’s about

2 miles to the turnoff for the parking area. From the trailhead, it’s less than a

Lake Mead National Recr

quarter mile to the petroglyph-covered jumble of rocks at the mouth of Grape-

vine Canyon. Covering the boulders are thousands of cryptic symbols, as well as

ancient illustrations of bighorn sheep. To see these petroglyphs, you’ll have to do

a lot of scrambling, so wear sturdy shoes (preferably hiking boots).

For information on other hikes, contact Lake Mead National Recre-

ation Area ( 702/293-8906 or 702/293-8990; www.nps.gov/lame).

Where to Stay

HOUSEBOATS

eation Ar

Seven Crown Resorts There’s no better way to explore Lake Mohave

than on one of these floating vacation homes. You can cruise for miles, tie up at

a deserted cove, and enjoy a wilderness adventure with all the comforts of home.

ea

Houseboats come complete with full kitchens, air-conditioning, and space

to sleep up to 13 people. Bear in mind that the scenery here on Lake Mohave

isn’t nearly as spectacular as that on Lake Powell, Arizona’s other major house-

boating lake.

P.O. Box 16247, Irvine, CA 92623-6247. www.sevencrown.com. 800/752-9669. $1,250–$4,250

per week. DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. In room: A/C, kitchen, no phone.

MOTELS

Lake Mohave Resort Just up Lake Mohave from Davis Dam and only a

few minutes outside Bullhead City, the Lake Mohave Resort is an older motel,

but the huge rooms are good for families. Most have some sort of view of the lake,

which is across the road, and some have kitchenettes. Just across the road are the

resort’s restaurant and lounge, which overlook the marina. The resort also has a

convenience store and a bait-and-tackle store.

Katherine Landing, 2690 E. Katherine Spur Rd., Bullhead City, AZ 86429. www.sevencrown.com.

800/752-9669 or 928/754-3245. 51 units. Late Apr to mid-Sept $95–$115 double, $125–$250

suite; mid-Sept to late Apr $60–$80 double, $90–$250 suite. Children 5 and under stay free in parent’s room. DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 deposit plus $10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, TV.

Temple Bar Marina Although basically just a motel, the Temple Bar Marina

has a wonderfully remote setting, a beach right in front, great fishing nearby, and

40 miles of prime skiing waters extending from the resort. A restaurant and

513

11 lounge overlook the lake and provide economical meals. The resort offers house-

boat and powerboat rentals and has a convenience store.

1 Main St., Temple Bar, AZ 86443. www.templebarlakemead.com. 800/255-5561 or 928/767-3211. 22 units. Apr–Oct $90–$115 double, $130 suite; Nov–Mar $77–$98 double, $111 suite.

Children 5 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 deposit plus $10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, TV.

CAMPGROUNDS

In Arizona, there are campgrounds at Katherine Landing on Lake Mohave and at

Temple Bar on Lake Mead. Both of these campgrounds have been heavily

planted with trees, so they provide some semblance of shade during the hot, but

popular, summer months. In Nevada, you’ll find campgrounds at Cottonwood

Cove on Lake Mohave and at Boulder Beach, Las Vegas Bay, Callville Bay, and

Bullhead City & Laughlin, Nevada Echo Bay on Lake Mead. Campsites at all campgrounds are $10 per night. For more information, contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area ( 702/

”

293-8906 or 702/293-8990; www.nps.gov/lame).

OAST

BULLHEAD CITY & LAUGHLIN,

C

NEVADA

EST

30 miles W of Kingman; 60 miles N of Lake Havasu City; 216 miles NW of Phoenix

“W’S Bullhead City is one of the hottest places in North America, with temperatures

regularly topping 120°F (49°C) in summer. To understand this town’s attraction,

you need only gaze across the Colorado River at the gambling mecca of Laughlin,

RIZONA

Nevada. Laughlin is the southernmost town in Nevada and, before the advent of

A

Indian casinos in Arizona, was the closest place to Phoenix to do any gambling.

The 10 large casino hotels across the river in Nevada still make Bullhead City

one of Arizona’s busiest little towns.

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Phoenix, take U.S. 60, which becomes U.S. 93, north-

west to I-40. From Kingman, take Ariz. 68 west to Bullhead City. From Las

Vegas, take U.S. 95 south.

Laughlin is a miniversion of Las Vegas.

514

Shuttle-bus service between Laughlin and the Las Vegas McCarran 11

Airport is operated by Tri-State Super Shuttle ( 800/801-8687 or

928/704-9000; www.tristateshuttle.net), which charges $60 each way

ARIZONA

(online discounts available).

VISITOR INFORMATION For information on Bullhead City and Laughlin, con-

tact the Bullhead Area Chamber of Commerce, 1251 Hwy. 95, Bull-

’

head City ( 928/754-4121; www.bullheadchamber.com). In Laughlin,

S “W

stop by the Laughlin Visitor Information Center, 1555 Casino Dr.

( 800/452-8445 or 702/298-3321; www.visitlaughlin.com).

EST

GETTING AROUND For car rentals in the area, contact Avis ( 800/331-1212

C

or 928/754-4686), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331 or 928/754-2700), or

OAST

Hertz ( 800/654-3131 or 928/754-4111). The Southern Nevada

Transit Coalition ( 702/298-4435; www.sntc.net) provides public bus

”

service in Laughlin. The fare is $2 for adults and $1 for seniors and youths

age 6 to 17. There are also ferries that shuttle to and from parking lots on the

Bullhead City & Laughlin, Nevada

Arizona side of the river and water taxis that go from casino to casino.

Exploring Laughlin & Bullhead City

The casinos of Laughlin, Nevada, just across the Colorado River from Bullhead

City, Arizona, are known for having liberal slots—that is, the slot machines pay

off frequently. Consequently, Laughlin is a very popular weekend destination for

Phoenicians and other Arizonans. In addition to the slot machines, there is keno,

blackjack, poker, craps, off-track betting, and sports betting. All the hotels in

Laughlin offer live entertainment of some sort, including an occasional headliner,

but gambling is still the main event.

If you’d like to learn more about the history of this area, visit the Colorado

River Museum, 355 Ariz. 68, Bullhead City ( 928/754-3399), a half mile north of the Laughlin Bridge. It’s open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to

4pm (closed June–Aug). Admission is by $2 suggested donation.

Organized Tours

If you’d like to see a bit of the Colorado River, daily paddle-wheeler cruises are

available through Laughlin River Tours ( 800/228-9825 or 702/298-1047; www.laughlinrivertours.com) at the Aquarius Casino Resort (see “Where to

Stay,” below). These cruises cost $12 to $15 for adults and $7 to $10 for children

3 to 12; dinner cruises ($40) are also

available. At Riverside Resort

Hotel & Casino, 1650 S. Casino

Dr., Laughlin ( 800/227-3849 or

702/298-2535; www.riversideresort.

com), you can take a tour on the

65-foot USS Riverside to Davis

Dam. These excursions last 80 min-

utes and cost $10 for adults and $6

for children ages 3 to 12.

If you’d rather look at natural

surroundings than casino towers,

consider booking a 6-hour jet-boat

tour to the London Bridge with

London Bridge Jet Boat Tours.

515

11 London Bridge Jet Boat Tours ( 888/505-3545 or 702/298-5498; www.

jetboattour.com). On the way, the boat passes through scenic Topock Gorge.

These powerful boats cruise at up to 40 mph and make the 58-mile one-way trip

in 2 hours. Tours cost $66 for adults, $60 for seniors, and $46 for children ages

12 and under. Tours don’t operate in December or January.

Outdoor Activities

Desert River Outfitters, 1034 U.S. 95, Bullhead City ( 888/529-2533;

www.desertriveroutfitters.com), will rent you a boat and shuttle you and your

gear to and from put-ins and take-outs. The least expensive trip is down the Colo-

rado River past the casinos in Laughlin ($35 for adults, $15 for children 6 to 15).

For information on fishing in nearby Lake Mohave, see the section on Lake

Mead National Recreation Area, earlier in this chapter. If you’d rather just feed

the fish, head to the dock behind the Edgewater Hotel & Casino, get some fish

Bullhead City & Laughlin, Nevada food from one of the machines, and feed the hungry carp that hang out there.

In Laughlin, golfers can play a round at the Mojave Resort Golf Club,

”

9905 Aha Macav Pkwy. ( 702/535-4653; www.mojaveresortgolfclub.com),

adjacent to the Avi Resort & Casino. Carved out of dense thickets of desert veg-

OAST

etation, this course has wide, user-friendly fairways and charges greens fees of

C

$89 to $109 during the cooler months (lower rates for guests of Avi Resort &

Casino). In Bullhead City, try the Desert Lakes Golf Course, 5835 Desert

EST

Lakes Dr., Fort Mohave ( 928/768-1000; www.desertlakesgc.com), 15 miles

“W

south of town off Ariz. 95. Greens fee is around $42 in the cooler months. Rates

’S

after 1 or 2pm are usually lower at these courses.

Bird-watching is excellent in Havasu National Wildlife Refuge ( 760/

326-3853; www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/Arizona/havasu), a wintering area

RIZONA

for many species of waterfowl. However, much of this refuge lies within the sce-

A

nic Topock Gorge and is accessible only by boat. The most accessible birding

areas are along the marshes in the vicinity of the communities of Golden Shores

and Topock, which are both north of the I-40 bridge over the Colorado. Topock

Gorge, one of the most scenic stretches of the lower Colorado River, is a 15-mile

stretch of river bordered by multicolored cliffs.

Where to Eat

The dozens of inexpensive casino-hotel restaurants in the area are usually the top

choice of visitors to Laughlin and Bullhead City. Cheap steaks, prime rib, and

all-you-can-eat buffets are the specialties of these places.

Where to Stay

IN LAUGHLIN, NEVADA

Laughlin, Nevada, currently has 10 huge hotel-and-casino complexes, 8 of which

are on the west bank of the Colorado River (the 9th is across the street from the

river, and the 10th is on the river but several miles south of town). All offer cheap rooms (often under $30 on weeknights) to lure potential gamblers. In addition to

huge casinos with hundreds of slot machines and every sort of gaming table,

these hotels all have several restaurants, bars and lounges (usually with live coun-

try or pop music nightly), swimming pools, video arcades, ferry service to parking

lots on the Arizona side of the river, valet parking, room service, car-rental desks, airport shuttles, gift shops, and gaming classes. The only real difference between

most of these places is the theme each has adopted for its decor.

516

Should you wish to stay at one of these hotels, here’s the information you’ll 11

need:

Aquarius Casino Resort, 1900 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV 89029 (www.

ARIZONA

aquariuscasinoresort.com; 800/662-5825 or 702/298-5111)

Avi Resort & Casino , 10000 Aha Macav Pkwy., Laughlin, NV 89029

(www.avicasino.com; 800/284-2946 or 702/535-5555)

’S

Colorado Belle Hotel & Casino, 2100 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV 89029

“W

(www.coloradobelle.com; 866/352-3553 or 702/298-4000)

EST

Edgewater Hotel & Casino, 2020 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV 89029

C

(www.edgewater-casino.com; 866/352-3553 or 702/298-2453)

OAST

Golden Nugget Laughlin, 2300 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV 89028 (www.

goldennugget.com/laughlin; 800/950-7700 or 702/298-7111)

”

Harrah’s Laughlin , 2900 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV 89029 (www.

harrahs.com; 800/221-1306 or 702/298-4600)

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge

Pioneer Hotel & Gambling Hall, 2200 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV

89029 (www.pioneerlaughlin.com; 800/634-3469 or 702/298-2442)

River Palms Resort & Casino, 2700 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV 89029

(www.river-palms.com; 800/835-7904)

Riverside Resort Hotel & Casino, 1650 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV

89029 (www.riversideresort.com; 800/227-3849, 702/298-2535, or

928/763-7070)

Tropicana Express Hotel & Casino, 2121 S. Casino Dr., Laughlin, NV

89029 (www.tropicanax.com; 800/243-6846 or 702/298-4200)

LAKE HAVASU & THE LONDON

BRIDGE

60 miles S of Bullhead City; 150 miles S of Las Vegas, NV; 200 miles NW of Phoenix

“London Bridge is falling down, falling down, falling down.” Well, not anymore it

isn’t. There once was a time when the London Bridge really was falling down, but

that was before Robert McCulloch, founder of Lake Havasu City, hit upon the

brilliant idea of buying the bridge and having it shipped to his undertouristed

little planned community in the Arizona desert. That was almost 40 years ago,

and today the London Bridge is still standing and still attracting tourists by the

millions.

Lake Havasu was formed in 1938 by the building of the Parker Dam, but it

wasn’t until 1963 that McCulloch founded the town of Lake Havasu City. In the

town’s early years, not too many people were keen on spending time in this

remote corner of the desert, where summer temperatures are often more than

110°F (43°C). Despite its name, Lake Havasu City at the time was little more

than an expanse of desert with a few mobile homes on it. It was then that

McCulloch began looking for ways to attract more people to his little “city” on

the lake. His solution proved to be a stroke of genius.

Today, Lake Havasu City attracts an odd mix of visitors. In winter, the town

is filled with retirees, and you’ll rarely see anyone under the age of 60. On week-

ends, during the summer, and over spring break, however, Lake Havasu City is

popular with Arizona college students. In fact, the city has become something of

517

11 a Cancún in the desert, and many businesses now cater primarily to young party-

ers. Expect a lot of noise on weekends and holidays.

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Phoenix, take I-10 west to Ariz. 95 north. From Las

Vegas, take U.S. 95 south to I-40, then east to Ariz. 95 south.

The Havasu/Vegas Express ( 800/459-4884 or 928/453-4884;

www.havasuvegasexpress.com) operates a shuttle van between Lake Havasu

City and Las Vegas. Fares are $60 one-way and $106 round-trip ($55 and

$97 for seniors).

VISITOR INFORMATION For more information on this area, contact the Lake

Havasu Convention & Visitors Bureau, 314 London Bridge Rd. ( 800/

242-8278 or 928/453-3444; www.golakehavasu.com), which has its Visitor

Information Center, 420 English Village, at the foot of the London Bridge.

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge

This visitor center is open daily from 9am to 5pm.

GETTING AROUND For car rentals, try Avis ( 800/331-1212 or 928/764-

”

3001), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331 or 928/453-0033), or Hertz

( 800/654-3131 or 928/764-3994).

OAST C Exploring Lake Havasu City

EST

Back in the mid-1960s, when London Bridge was indeed falling down—or, more

“W

correctly, sinking—into the Thames River due to heavy car and truck traffic, the

’S

British government decided to sell the bridge. Robert McCulloch and his partner

paid nearly $2.5 million for the famous bridge, and reconstruction in Lake

Havasu City began in 1968. The grand reopening was held in 1971. Oddly

RIZONA

enough, the 900-foot-long bridge was not built over water; it just connected des-

A

ert to more desert on a peninsula jutting into Lake Havasu. It wasn’t until after

the bridge was rebuilt that a mile-long channel was dredged through the base of

the peninsula, thus creating an island offshore from Lake Havasu City.

The bridge has a long history. The first bridge over the Thames River in Lon-

don was probably a wooden bridge built by the Romans in a.d. 43. In 1176, the

first stone bridge over the Thames was built. They just don’t build ’em like that

one anymore—it lasted for more than 600 years but was eventually replaced in

1824 by the bridge that now stands in Lake Havasu City.

At the base of the bridge sits

English Village, which is done up

in proper English style and has a few

shops, some casual restaurants, and

Lake Havasu’s main visitor center.

There is also a waterfront prome-

nade, along which you’ll find several

cruise boats and boat-rental docks.

Unfortunately, the London

Bridge is not very impressive as

bridges go, and the tacky commer-

cialization of its surroundings makes

it something of a letdown for many

visitors. On top of that, over the London Bridge was shipped from the U.K. to

years the jolly Olde England styling Arizona in the mid-1960s.

518

The Desert Bar

11

Set on the site of an abandoned mine,

Memorial Day, Saturday and Sunday

A

the Desert Bar (www.thedesertbar.com),

from high noon until sunset. Expect live

RIZONA

which is officially known as the Nellie E

music and lots of retirees. To reach the

Saloon, makes use of salvaged parts and

Desert Bar, drive 4 miles north from

scrap metal left over from the mining

Parker or 5 miles south from Buckskin

’S

days. A covered footbridge leads to the

Mountain State Park, and turn east on

“W

saloon, and out in the parking lot, there’s

Cienega Springs Road. Continue 5 miles

EST

a steel “church” with a copper-roofed

down a gravel road to the bar.

C

steeple. The bar is open Labor Day to

OAST

”

that once predominated around here has been supplanted by a Mexican beach-

bar aesthetic designed to appeal to partying college students on spring break.

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge

You can learn more about the history of this area by stopping by the Lake

Havasu Museum of History, 320 London Bridge Rd. ( 928/854-4938;

www.havasumuseum.com). There are exhibits on the London Bridge, the region’s

Chemehuevi tribe, and the early mining history of the area. The museum is open

Tuesday through Saturday from 1 to 4pm; admission is $4 (free for children 12

and under).

Outlying Attractions

About 16 miles south of Lake Havasu City stands the Parker Dam, which holds

back the waters of Lake Havasu and is said to be the deepest dam in the world

because 73% of its 320-foot height is below the riverbed. Beginning just above

the dam and stretching south to the town of Parker is one of the most beautiful

stretches of the lower Colorado River. Just before you reach the dam, you’ll come

to the Bill Williams River National Wildlife Refuge ( 928/667-4144;

http://southwest.fws.gov/refuges/arizona/billwill.html), which preserves the lower

reaches of the Bill Williams River. This refuge offers some of the best bird-watch-

ing in western Arizona. Keep your eyes open for vermilion flycatchers, Yuma clap-

per rails, soras, Swainson’s hawks, and white-faced ibises.

Continuing south, you’ll reach a dam overlook and the Take-Off Point boat

launch, where you can do some fishing from shore. Below the dam, the river

becomes narrow and red-rock canyon walls close in. Although this narrow gorge

is lined with mobile-home parks, the most beautiful sections have been pre-

served in two state parks: Buckskin Mountain State Park ( 928/667-

3231; www.azstateparks.com) and River Island State Park ( 928/667-3386; www.azstateparks.com). Both parks have campgrounds ($30 for campsites or

cabanas at Buckskin Mountain; $25 for campsites at River Island), and a few of

the campsites can be reserved. There are also day-use areas that include river

beaches and hiking trails leading into the Buckskin Mountains. The day-use fee

is $10 per vehicle at either park. In this area you’ll also find the spectacular

Emerald Canyon Golf Course (see “Golf,” below, for details).

Organized Tours

Several companies offer different types of boat tours on Lake Havasu. Bluewa-

ter Jet Boat Tours ( 888/855-7171 or 928/855-7171; www.coloradoriverjet boattours.com) runs jet-boat tours that leave from the London Bridge and spend

519

11

CANOEING THE colorado

Paddling down a desert river is a fasci-

bighorn sheep. Trips take 5 to 6 hours,

nating experience. Rugged rock walls,

and the cost is $48 per person, which

prickly cacti, and thickets of water-loving

includes the use of a kayak or canoe,

plants drift by on shore as the cool water

paddles, life jackets, dry bags, coolers,

rushes past your boat. If you’re interested

and, most important, the shuttle service

in a scenic canoe tour, there are a couple

to the put-in point and back from the

of outfitters in the area. Both provide

take-out point. Jerkwater Canoe Com-

boats, paddles, life jackets, maps, and

pany ( 800/421-7803 or 928/768-

shuttles to put-in and take-out points,

7753; www.jerkwatercanoe.com) offers a

but usually no guide. Western Arizona

similar Topock Gorge excursion and also

Canoe and Kayak Outfitters ( 888/

arranges other canoe and kayak trips of

881-5038 or 928/855-6414; www.

varying lengths. Jerkwater’s Topock

azwacko.com) offers self-guided kayak or

Gorge self-guided 5- to 6-hour trip is $46

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge canoe trips through the beautiful and per person. There is a two-person

”

rugged Topock Gorge, where you can

minimum.

see ancient petroglyphs and possibly

OAST C

EST

21⁄2 hours cruising up the Colorado River to the Topock Gorge, a scenic area 25

miles from Lake Havasu City. The cost is $38 for adults, $35 for seniors, and $20

“W’S for children 5 to 12. You can also go out on the Kontiki ( 866/332-9231 or 928/855-0888), which charges $20 per person for a cruise around the lake.

In addition to tours on the water, there are also tours over the water. Lake Havasu Parasail ( 928/302-0683; www.lakehavasuparasail.com) will strap RIZONAA

you into a parasail and tow you behind a speedboat as you soar 600 feet over the

lake. These short flights cost $60. Don’t want to get wet? Try Lake Havasu Sea-

plane ( 928/855-4472 or 928/486-6997; www.lakehavasuseaplane.com), which starts out on the water but soon takes to the skies in its floatplane. A

30-minute air tour costs $175 and a 1-hour tour costs $250. Want a classic aerial

experience? Edgewater Aviation ( 928/764-1044; www.biplanerides.net) offers tours in a restored Stearman biplane. Air tours run from $99 for a 15-minute flight to $265 for a 45-minute flight. Looking for something a bit quieter and

slower paced? Book a hot-air balloon ride with Wanderlust Balloons ( 928/

486-1075; www.wanderlustballoons.com), which charges $185 per person

($125 for children under 100 lb.).

Outdoor Activities

WATERSPORTS

Whether you want to go for a swim, take a leisurely pedal-boat ride, try parasail-

ing, or spend the day water-skiing, there are plenty of places on 45-mile-long

Lake Havasu to get wet. Lake Havasu is also known as the Jet Ski Capital of the

World, so don’t expect much peace and quiet when you’re out on the water.

London Bridge Beach is the best in-town beach and is located in a county

park off West McCulloch Boulevard behind the Island Inn. This park has a sandy

beach, lots of palm trees, and views of both the London Bridge and the distant

desert mountains. There are also picnic tables and a snack bar. Just south of the

520

London Bridge on the “mainland” 11

side, you’ll find the large Rotary

Community Park, which is con-

ARIZONA

nected to the bridge by a paved

waterside path. Adjacent to the park

is the Lake Havasu Aquatic Cen-

ter, 100 Park Ave. ( 928/453-

’S “W

2687; www.lhcaz.gov/aquaticcenter),

which has an indoor wave pool, 254-

EST

foot water slide, and lots of other

C

facilities. There are more beaches

OAST

at Lake Havasu State Park

Boats traverse the waters of Lake Havasu during

( 928/855-2784; www.azstate

”

summer.

parks.com), 2 miles north of the Lon-

don Bridge, and at Cattail Cove

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge

State Park ( 928/855-1223; www.azstateparks.com), 15 miles south of Lake Havasu City. Both state parks charge a $10 day-use fee ($15 Fri–Sun and state

holidays).

You can rent boats from Fun Time Boat Rentals, 1685 Industrial Blvd.

( 800/680-1003 or 928/680-1003; www.funtimeboatrentals.com). Pontoon

boats and ski boats equipped with water skis or knee boards both rent for $295

to $400 per day. If you’re interested in kayaking or canoeing, contact Western

Arizona Canoe and Kayak Outfitter ( 888/881-5038 or 928/855-6414;

www.azwacko.com), which charges $25 to $40 per day for canoes and kayaks.

Lake Havasu also provides anglers with plenty of fish stories to tell. Striped bass, also known as stripers, are the favorite quarry here. These fish have been

known to weigh in at more than 60 pounds in these waters, so be sure to bring

the heavy tackle. Largemouth bass in the 2- to 4-pound range are also fairly com-

mon, and giant channel catfish of up to 35 pounds have been caught in Topock

Marsh. The best fishing starts in spring, but there is also good winter fishing.

GOLF

Lake Havasu City has three courses that are open to the public. Panoramic views

are to be had from each of the courses here, and there’s enough variety to accom-

modate golfers of any skill level.

London Bridge Golf Club, 2400 Clubhouse Dr. ( 928/855-2719;

www.londonbridgegc.com), with two 18-hole courses, is the area’s premier

course. High-season greens fee (with cart) on either the Olde London course or

the Nassau course is $68 ($29 after 2pm). The Havasu Island Golf Course,

Seeing the Light

Lighthouses may seem as out of place in

one-third the size of the originals. The

the desert as the London Bridge, but

lighthouses were built by the Lake

there are now 20 lighthouses along the

Havasu Lighthouse Club (www.lh-light

shores of Lake Havasu. The lights are

houseclub.org), and several of the light-

replicas of famous navigation beacons

houses can be seen in the parks flanking

from around the country and are roughly

the London Bridge.

521

11

Emerald Canyon Golf Course.

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge 1040 McCulloch Blvd. ( 928/855-5585; http://nauticalinn.com/golf), is a 4,211-yard, par-62 executive course with lots of water hazards. Greens fees are

”

$25 if you walk and $35 with a cart ($19 and $29 after 1pm). The 9-hole Bridge-

water Links, 1477 Queens Bay Rd. ( 928/855-4777; www.londonbridge

OAST

resort.com), at the London Bridge Resort, is the most accessible and easiest of

C

the area courses. Greens fees for 9 holes are $12 to $18 if you walk and $18 to

EST

$24 with a cart.

Golfers won’t want to miss the Emerald Canyon Golf Course

, 7351

“W’S Riverside Dr., Parker ( 928/667-3366; www.emeraldcanyongolf.com), about 30

miles south of Lake Havasu City. This municipal course is the most spectacular in

the region and plays through rugged canyons and past red-rock cliffs, from which

there are views of the Colorado River. One hole even has you hitting your ball off a RIZONAA

cliff to a green 200 feet below! Greens fees are $55 to $65 in the cooler months

($50 after 1pm), and tee-time reservations can be made a week in advance. Also in

Parker is the golf course at the Havasu Springs Resort, 2581 Ariz. 95 ( 928/

667-3361), which some people claim is the hardest little 9-hole, par-3 course in the state. It’s atop a rocky outcropping with steep drop-offs all around. If you aren’t staying here, greens fees are only $12 for 9 holes and $18 for 18 holes.

HIKING

If it’s not too hot, and you’re interested in hiking, head 5 miles south of town to

S.A.R.A. Park, 7260 S. SARA Park Way ( 928/453-8686; www.lhcaz.gov/

parksandrecreation/parks/sarapark.html), a 1,100-acre city park with many miles

of trails. The most rewarding trail here is the Crack in the Wall Trail, a 5- to

6-mile round-tip hike that leads through a narrow slot canyon for part of its

length. There are also paved multi-use paths along the waterfront on either side

of the London Bridge. The Mohave Sunset Trail, north of the bridge, continues

as a gravel path through Lake Havasu State Park. This latter stretch of the trail,

along the shore of the lake, is 1.5 miles long. The 3.6-mile Island Trail, a loop trail that starts just across the London Bridge from downtown Lake Havasu City, is an

easy paved path popular with cyclists and walkers.

Where to Eat

Cha-Bones AMERICAN Move over Scottsdale: Lake Havasu City is get-

tin’ hip and crowdin’ your turf. Well, sort of. This very stylish restaurant a few

522

blocks north of the London Bridge could hold its own in the big city, at least as 11

far as the decor goes. The menu, on the other hand, sticks to familiar mesquite-

grilled steaks, barbecued ribs, build-your-own burgers, and a few designer pizzas.

ARIZONA

Granted, the menu doesn’t break any new ground, but the setting is so unlike

anything else in town that this is my favorite Lake Havasu City restaurant.

112 London Bridge Rd. 928/854-5554. www.chabones.com. Reservations not accepted.

’

Main courses $7–$17 lunch, $10–$39 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Oct–Apr Sun–Thurs 11am–

S “W

9pm, Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; May–Sept Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

EST

Javelina Cantina MEXICAN Located at the foot of the London Bridge on

C

the island side, this large, modern Mexican restaurant is affiliated with Shugrue’s

OAST

on the other side of the street. As at Shugrue’s, there is a great view of the bridge.

In this case, it is from a large patio area that is kept heated during the cooler winter months. The bar has an excellent selection of tequilas, and margaritas are a

”

specialty here. Accompany your libations with tortilla soup, fish tacos, or a salad

made with blackened scallops, papaya, pecans, and blue cheese.

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge

1420 McCulloch Blvd. 928/855-8226. www.javelinacantina.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–8 or 9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–9 or 10pm.

Mudshark Brewing Company SOUTHWESTERN/INTERNATIONAL

At this big, boisterous brewpub a few blocks south of the London Bridge, you’ll

find excellent brews that go especially well with the pizzas, pastas, and other

more substantial dishes on the menu. There’s a movie theater right next door,

which makes this a good spot for a night out.

210 Swanson Ave. 928/453-2981. www.mudsharkbrewing.com. Reservations not necessary.

Main courses $9–$23. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.

Shugrue’s AMERICAN Just across the London Bridge from the English

Village shopping complex, Shugrue’s seems to be popular as much for its view of

the bridge as for its food. Offerings include seafood, steaks, and prime rib at din-

ner, and burgers, sandwiches, and a short list of pastas at lunch. This place is a

favorite of vacationing retirees and families. The adjacent affiliated Barley Broth-

ers Brewpub has the same good view of the bridge and serves a menu calculated

to appeal to a younger clientele.

At the Island Mall, 1425 McCulloch Blvd. 928/453-1400. www.shugrues.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$14 lunch, $13–$32 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily

11am–9pm.

Lake Havasu City After Dark

Lake Havasu City has two brewpubs. I prefer Mudshark Brewing Company (see

above), but if you want a brew with a view of the London Bridge, head to Barley

Brothers Brewery & Grill, 1425 McCulloch Blvd. ( 928/505-7837; www.

barleybrothers.com). For something a little more highbrow, do your drinking at

the swanky Martini Bay, 1477 Queens Bay ( 928/855-0888; www.london

bridgeresort.com), a stylish lounge at the London Bridge Resort. You can also do

some gambling across Lake Havasu at the Havasu Landing Resort and

Casino ( 800/307-3610; www.havasulanding.com), which is located in California and is operated by the Chemehuevi Indian Tribe. A ferry operates from the

Island Mall beside the London Bridge.

523

11 Where to Stay

Blue Water Resort and Casino

Located 37 miles south of Lake

Havasu City, this riverside casino resort is western Arizona’s most impressive

hotel. Even if you aren’t interested in spending your time at the slot machines,

you’ll find something here that appeals to you. There’s a marina, a mile of river-

front land, a miniature-golf course, a theater for live entertainment, a movie thea-

ter, and a big indoor pool complex (with water slide) that’s designed to resemble

ancient ruins. Guest rooms are all close to the water, which means nice river

views but also traffic noise from the ski boats. Furnishings are standard motel

modern.

11300 Resort Dr., Parker, AZ 85344. www.bluewaterfun.com. 888/243-3360 or 928/669-7777.

200 units. $55–$140 double; $90–$160 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Amenities: 3 restaurants; snack bars; 2 lounges; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 3 pools; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Lake Havasu & the London Bridge Heat Hotel Located at the foot of the London Bridge, this surprisingly stylish boutique hotel is by far the hippest hotel between Scottsdale and Las Vegas.

”

Rooms are large and have balconies, and most overlook the bridge or the water.

Platform beds, stylish lamps, and a sort of Scandinavian-modern aesthetic make

OAST

this the most distinctive hotel on this side of the state. The Inferno Suites, with

C

their Tempur-Pedic beds and Jacuzzi tubs, are my favorite rooms here. One

EST

caveat: The open-air bar directly across the channels plays loud music until 2am

“W

on warm nights (especially during spring break).

’S

1420 McCulloch Blvd. N., Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403. www.heathotel.com. 888/898-4328.

Fax 928/854-1130. 25 units. $89–$229 double; $169–$399 suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($50 fee). Amenities: Lounge. In room: RIZONA

A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

A

London Bridge Resort & Convention Center Merry Olde England

was once the theme at this timeshare resort, and Tudor half-timbers are jumbled

up with towers, ramparts, and crenellations. However, England has given way to

the tropics and the desert as the resort strives to please its young, partying clientele. Although the bridge is just out the hotel’s back door, and a replica of Britain’s gold state coach is inside the lobby, guests are more interested in the three pools

(including one with a waterslide) and the tropical-theme outdoor nightclub. The

one- and two-bedroom units are spacious, comfortable, and attractive, and those

on the ground floor have double whirlpool tubs.

1477 Queens Bay Rd., Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403. www.londonbridgeresort.com. 866/331-9231 or 928/855-0888. Fax 928/855-5404. 122 units. $106–$139 studio condo; $163–$219

1-bedroom condo. Rates include full breakfast. All rates plus $15 resort fee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 lounges; 9-hole golf course; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; 3 pools; room service; spa; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi.

CAMPGROUNDS

There are two state park campgrounds in the Lake Havasu City area. Lake

Havasu State Park ( 928/855-2784; www.azstateparks.com) is 2 miles

north of the London Bridge on London Bridge Road, while Cattail Cove State

Park ( 928/855-1223; www.azstateparks.com) is 15 miles south of Lake Havasu City off Ariz. 95. The former campground charges $18 per night per

524

vehicle, while the latter charges $20 to $26 per site. Reservations at either park 11

can be made by contacting the Arizona State Parks Reservation Center

( 520/586-2283; https://azstateparks.itinio.com).

ARIZONA

SIDE TRIPS

For much of the year, the community of Quartzsite, 75 miles south of Lake

’S

Havasu City, is little more than a few truck stops at an interstate off-ramp. But

“W

the population explodes with the annual influx of winter visitors, and from early

EST

January to mid-February it’s the site of numerous gem-and-mineral shows that

C

together attract hordes of rockhounds. Among these shows is the QIA Pow

OAST

Wow ( 928/927-6325; www.qiaaz.org), which is held in late January and is one of the largest gem-and-mineral shows in the country. During the winter

months, Quartzsite sprouts thousands of vendor stalls, as flea markets and the

”

like are erected along the town’s main streets. A variety of interesting food makes

it a good place to stop for lunch or dinner.

Side T

Any time of year, you might want to stop and take a look at the Last Camp

of Hi Jolly, a memorial to 19th-century camel driver Hadji Ali, better known as rips

Hi Jolly. In 1856, Hi Jolly was hired by the U.S. Army for its experimental Camel

Corps, which, it was hoped, would prove useful in the arid Southwest. Though

the camels were well adapted to the desert, the experiment lasted less than a

decade, ended in part due to the onset of the Civil War. Hi Jolly died in Quartz-

site in 1902, and the pyramid-shaped monument to him was erected by the state

of Arizona on 1935. You’ll find the monument on West Main Street in the center

of Quartzsite (take exit 17 off I-10).

For information on parking your RV in the desert outside Quartzsite,

contact the Bureau of Land Management, Yuma Field Office, 2555 E. Gila

Ridge Rd., Yuma ( 928/317-3200; www.blm.gov/az/st/en/fo/yuma_field_

office.html). Alternatively, you can get information and camping permits at the

La Posa Long-Term Visitor Area entrance stations just south of Quartzsite on

U.S. 95. The season here runs from September 15 to April 15, with permits going

for $180 for the season and $40 for 14 consecutive days.

There are only three places in Arizona where palm trees grow wild, and one

of those spots is 27 miles south of Quartzsite off U.S. 95 (watch for the turnoff

18 miles south of Quartzsite). Palm Canyon lies within the boundaries of the

Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, which was formed primarily to protect the

desert bighorn sheep that live here in the rugged Kofa Mountains. The palms are

The Bouse Fisherman

If ancient rock art interests you, be sure to

centuries ago by native peoples and may

watch for Plomosa Road as you travel

depict the god Kumastamo, who created

between Parker and Quartzsite. Off this

the Colorado River by thrusting a spear

road, you’ll find a 30-foot intaglio (or

into the ground. To find it, drive 8 miles

geoglyph) known as the Bouse Fisher-

up Plomosa Road, which is approximately

man. This primitive image of a person

6 miles north of Quartzsite, and watch for

spearing fish was formed by scratching

a wide parking area on the north side of

away the rocky crust of the desert soil.

the road. From here, follow the trail for a

It is believed to have been created

quarter of a mile over a small hill.

525

11 9 miles off U.S. 95 in a narrow canyon a short walk from the end of the well-graded gravel road, and although there are fewer than 100 palm trees, the hike to see them

provides an opportunity to experience these mountains up close. For maps and

more information, contact the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, 9300 E. 28th St.,

Yuma Yuma ( 928/783-7861; www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/arizona/kofa).

”

YUMA

180 miles SW of Phoenix; 240 miles W of Tucson; 180 miles E of San Diego, CA

OAST C According to the Guinness Book of World Records, Yuma is the sunniest place on EST

earth. Of the possible 4,456 hours of daylight each year, the sun shines in Yuma

for roughly 4,050 hours, or about 90% of the time. Combine all that sunshine

“W

with the warmest winter weather in the country, and you’ve got a destination

’S

guaranteed to attract refugees from colder climes each winter. By late spring, the

snowbirds head north to escape the steadily rising temperatures, and by high

summer, Yuma’s furnace-like high temperatures make it one of the hottest cities

RIZONAA

in the country.

Way back in the middle of the 19th century, Yuma was one of the most

important towns in the region and was known as the Rome of the Southwest

because all roads led to Yuma Crossing—the shallow spot along the Colorado

River where this town was founded. Yuma became a busy port town during the

1850s as shallow-draft steamboats traveled up the Colorado River from the Gulf

of California. Later, when the railroad pushed westward into California in the

1870s, it, too, passed through Yuma. Today, it is I-8, which connects San Diego

with Tucson, that brings travelers to Yuma and across the Colorado River.

In the hopes of luring more travelers off the interstate, Yuma upgraded and

restored some of its downtown historic buildings a few years ago and restored its

natural setting on the Colorado River. A visual arts center downtown rivals galler-

ies in Scottsdale, and an adjacent historic movie theater has been restored to its

former glory and now serves as a performing arts center. However, Yuma continues

to be known primarily as a warm place to escape the cold and snows up north. For

some people that is enough, but if you’re searching for scenic desert landscapes

and lots to see and do, you might not want to spend too much time in Yuma.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Yuma is on I-8, which runs from San Diego, California, to

Casa Grande, Arizona. Amtrak ( 800/872-7245) runs passenger service

to Yuma on its Sunset Limited route, which runs between Los Angeles and

Orlando. The station is at 281 Gila St.

The Yuma International Airport (YUM), 2191 E. 32nd St. ( 928/726-

5882; www.yumaairport.com), is served from Phoenix by US Airways

Express ( 800/428-4322) and from Los Angeles by United Express

( 800/864-8331).

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Yuma Visitors Bureau, 201 N. Fourth

Ave. ( 800/293-0071 or 928/783-0071; www.visityuma.com). The visi-

tor center, which is at the Yuma Quartermaster Depot State Historic Park,

is open daily from 9am to 5pm (June–Aug, closed on Sun).

GETTING AROUND Rental cars are available from Avis ( 800/331-1212 or 928/726-5737), Budget ( 800/527-0700 or 928/344-1822), Enterprise

526

( 800/261-7331 or 928/726-9923), and Hertz ( 800/654-3131 or 11

928/726-5160).

SPECIAL EVENTS The Yuma area is a major producer of lettuce, and celebrates

ARIZONA

this during Yuma Lettuce Days (www.yumalettucedays.com) in

mid-March.

’

Exploring Yuma

S “W

Arizona Historical Society Sanguinetti House Museum HISTORIC

EST

SITE If you’d like to find out more about pioneer life in Yuma, stop by this ter-

ritorial period–home, which is full of historical photographs and artifacts and is

C

surrounded by lush gardens and aviaries containing exotic birds. Adjacent to the

OAST

museum is the Garden Cafe, a wonderful alfresco breakfast and lunch spot (see

“Where to Eat,” below).

”

240 S. Madison Ave. 928/782-1841. www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org. Admission $3 adults, $2 seniors and students 12–18, free for children 11 and under; free 1st Sat of each month. Tues–

Yuma

Sat 10am–4pm.

Yuma Art Center ART MUSEUM While Yuma may not seem at first like

the sort of place to find cutting-edge contemporary art, that’s just what you some-

times encounter at this downtown art center, which is next door to the Historic

Yuma Theatre. The gorgeous gallery here could easily hold its own in Scottsdale.

Don’t leave town without stopping by to see what’s on view. The Yuma Sympo-

sium ( 928/782-1934; www.yumasymposium.org), held here each year in February, brings in talented artists from all over the country.

254 S. Main St. www.yumafinearts.org. 928/329-6607. Admission by donation. Tues–Thurs 10am–6pm; Friday 10am–7pm (until 9pm the last Fri of each month); Sat 10am–5pm.

Yuma Quartermaster Depot State Historic Park

HISTORIC

SITE In 1865, Yuma Crossing became the site of the military’s Quartermaster

Depot. Yuma was a busy river port during this time, and after supplies shipped

from California were unloaded, they went to military posts throughout the region.

When the railroad arrived in Yuma in 1877, the Quartermaster Depot began to

lose its importance in the regional supply network, and by 1883, the depot was

closed. Today, the depot’s large wooden buildings have been restored, and

although they’re set back from the current channel of the Colorado River, it’s easy

to imagine being stationed at this hot and dusty outpost in the days before air-

conditioning. Exhibits tell the story of those who lived and worked at Yuma

Crossing.

Ships of the Desert

If you’re in a Middle Eastern mood (or

the resident camels and the other 25

have the kids with you), consider spend-

species of exotic animals. The farm is

ing some time at the Camel Farm, 15672

open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am

S. Ave. 1E ( 928/627-7511), which is

to 5pm, and admission is $5 ($4 for

on the east side of Yuma at the corner of

seniors), free for children 2 and under.

County 16th Road (call for directions).

Closed in summer.

Here at the farm you can get to know

527

11 201 N. 4th Ave. (at the Colorado River).

928/783-0071. www.azstateparks.com.

Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed

Thanksgiving, Christmas eve, and Christmas.

Yuma Yuma Territorial Prison State

Historic Park HISTORIC SITE

”

If you’ve ever wondered where they

really locked up the bad guys in the

OAST

Wild West, check out this fortresslike

C

prison on a bluff above the Colorado

EST

River. This prison opened for business

“W

in 1876 and, despite the thick stone

’S

walls and iron bars, was considered a Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park.

model penal institution in its day. It

even had its own electricity-generating plant and ventilation system. The prison

RIZONA

museum has some interesting displays, including photos of many of the men and

A

women who were incarcerated here.

1 Prison Hill Rd. 928/783-4771. www.azstateparks.com. Admission $5 adults, $2 children 7–13, free for children 6 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Christmas.

Outlying Attractions

To get an idea of what life was like in the mining boomtowns, make a detour to

Castle Dome City Mines Museum ( 928/920-3062; www.castledome

minemuseum.com), a reconstructed mining town in the middle of the desert. To

find this place, turn east at the Castle Dome turnoff near milepost 55 and continue

another 10 miles (only 3 miles are paved). The museum/ghost town is open daily

from 10am to 5pm (from May through mid-October, open by appointment only),

and admission is $10 for adults, $5 for children (free for children 6 and under).

Organized Tours

The Colorado River has been the lifeblood of the Southwestern desert for centu-

ries, and today there’s a wealth of history along its banks. Yuma River Tours

( 928/783-4400; www.yumarivertours.com) operates narrated jet-boat tours

from Yuma to the Imperial National Wildlife Refuge (see below) and a

48-mile trip upriver to Draper. Along the way, you’ll learn about the homesteaders,

boatmen, Native Americans, and miners who once relied on the Colorado River.

Tours cost $48 to $95. This company also does tours in a paddle-wheeler. Three-

hour tours are $48 ($57 with lunch), and 2-hour sunset dinner cruises are $63.

Outdoor Activities

During the warmer months (early May through mid-Oct), you can float a stretch

of the Colorado River in an inner tube. Yuma River Tubing ( 928/750-

0247; www.yumarivertubing.biz) rents inner tubes and operates a shuttle from

West Wetlands Park, 350 N. 12th Ave. You can float the river for as little as an

hour or as long as half a day. Prices range from $11 to $22 for adults, $11 for

children 7 to 12, and $5 to $8 for children 6 and under.

If you’re a bird-watcher, an angler, or a canoeist, you’ll want to spend some

time along the Colorado River north of Yuma. Here you’ll find the Imperial and

Cibola national wildlife refuges, which preserve marshes and shallow lakes along

528

the river. Plenty of bird species and good fishing and canoeing make it a popular 11

area. For more information, contact the Imperial National Wildlife Refuge

( 928/783-3371; www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/arizona/imperial/index.html)

ARIZONA

or the Cibola National Wildlife Refuge ( 928/857-3253; www.fws.gov/

southwest/refuges/cibolanwr/index.html).

One of the best ways to explore the Imperial National Wildlife Refuge is by

canoe. You can rent one from Martinez Lake Resort ( 928/783-9589;

’S “W

www.martinezlake.com) for $25 a day and paddle around Martinez Lake. Multi-

day canoe trips are offered by Yuma River Tours ( 928/783-4400; www.

EST

yumarivertours.com) along this stretch of the lower Colorado, which features

C

rugged, colorful mountains and quiet backwater areas.

OAST

Bird-watchers will want to head out to Betty’s Kitchen Watchable Wild-

life Area ($10 day-use fee per vehicle) and the adjacent Mittry Lake Wildlife

”

Area. To get there, take U.S. 95 east out of town, turn north on Avenue 7E

(Laguna Dam Rd.), and continue 9 miles, at which point the road turns to gravel.

Y

Turn left in a quarter of a mile to reach Betty’s Kitchen; continue straight to reach uma

Mittry Lake. Fall and spring migrations are some of the best times of year for

birding at these spots; many waterfowl winter in the area as well. For information

on Betty’s Kitchen and Mittry Lake, contact the Bureau of Land Manage-

ment, Yuma Field Office, 2555 E. Gila Ridge Rd., Yuma ( 928/317-3200;

www.blm.gov/az/st/en/fo/yuma_field_office.html).

While Yuma’s golf courses are not nearly as impressive as those at the resorts

in Phoenix and Tucson, there are certainly plenty of them, and you can’t beat the

winter climate. The Mesa del Sol Golf Club, 12213 Calle del Cid ( 928/

342-1283; www.mesadelsolgolf.com), off I-8 at the Fortuna Road exit, is the

most challenging local course open to the public. Greens fee is $47 during the

cooler months ($39 after 1pm). On the other hand, the Desert Hills Golf

Course, 1245 Desert Hills Dr. ( 928/344-4653; www.deserthillsgc.com), has been rated one of the best municipal courses in the state. Greens fees range

from $35 to $48 during the cooler months.

Where to Eat

The Garden Cafe

LIGHT FARE In back of the Arizona Historical Soci-

ety Sanguinetti House Museum is Yuma’s favorite breakfast and lunch spot. Set

amid quiet terraced gardens and large aviaries full of singing birds, the Garden

Cafe provides a welcome respite from Yuma’s heat. There’s also an indoor dining

area. The menu consists of various sandwiches, daily special quiches, salads, and

rich desserts. Pancakes with lingonberry sauce are a breakfast specialty. On Sun-

day, there’s a brunch buffet.

250 S. Madison Ave. 928/783-1491. http://gardencafeyuma.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$13. AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri 9–2:30pm; Sat 8–2:30pm; Sun 8am–2:30pm.

Closed June to Sept.

Lutes Casino

AMERICAN Lutes, in business since the 1920s, is a

dark and cavernous restaurant (not a casino anymore, despite the name) known

for serving the best hamburgers in town and for having the strangest decor, too.

You don’t need to see a menu—just walk in and ask for a special, or un especial

(this is a bilingual joint). What you’ll get is a cheeseburger/hot dog combo. Then

cover your special with Lutes’s own secret-recipe hot sauce to make it truly

special.

529

11 221 S. Main St. 928/782-2192. www.lutescasino.com. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches and burgers $2.50–$6.50. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10am–8pm; Fri–Sat 10am–9pm; Sun

10am–6pm.

River City Grill INTERNATIONAL With its hip, big-city decor and inno-

Yuma vative menu, this restaurant is something of a novelty in Yuma. Although you can get a steak at dinner and a burger at lunch, seafood dominates the menu. The

”

crab-and-salmon cakes with spicy Thai peanut sauce are a must for a starter. Fla-

vor combinations range all over the globe: Vietnamese spring rolls, Mediterra-

OAST

nean salad, Pad Thai, and Jamaican jerked chicken. The owners of this restaurant

C

also operate Ciao Bella, 2255 S. Fourth Ave. ( 928/783-3900), an upscale EST

Italian restaurant.

“W

600 W. 3rd St. 928/782-7988. www.rivercitygrillyuma.com. Reservations recommended.

’S

Main courses $8–$12 lunch, $14–$26 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm and 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 5–10pm.

RIZONA

Shopping

A

Historic downtown Yuma isn’t exactly a bustling place, and it doesn’t exactly

abound in historical flavor. Funky and inexpensive crafts and antiques shops

occupy an occasional storefront, and down a landscaped alleyway off Main Street

(at 224 Main St., across from Lutes Casino), there’s a potpourri of small tourist-

oriented stores. Just off Main Street, you’ll also find two pottery studios/galleries: Tomkins Pottery, 78 W. Second St. ( 928/782-1934; www.claystuff.com), and Colorado River Pottery, 67 W. Second St. ( 888/410-2689 or 928/343-0413; www.coloradoriverpottery.com).

Entertainment & Nightlife

In most small towns across Arizona, you’ll find an old downtown movie theater.

Most of them are boarded up and abandoned. Not so with Yuma’s old theater.

The renovated Historic Yuma The-

atre, 254 S. Main St. ( 928/373-

5202; www.ci.yuma.az.us/4753.htm),

is now host to live theater productions

and touring musical groups. Originally

opened in 1912, the theater has been

restored to the way it looked in the

1930s, when it sported a distinctive Art

Deco decor.

Looking for something else to do

after dark in Yuma? You can try your luck

at the Paradise Casino, 450 Quechan

Dr. ( 888/777-4946; www.paradise-

casinos.com), across the Colorado River

on the Quechan Indian Reservation, or

at the Cocopah Casino, 15318 S. Ave.

B, Somerton ( 800/237-5687; www.

cocopahresort.com/casino), 15 minutes Historic Yuma Theatre.

south of Yuma.

530

Where to Stay

11

The Adobe House Set on 21⁄4 acres 10 minutes from downtown Yuma,

this sprawling adobe-walled hacienda dates from 1938 and is surrounded by lush

ARIZONA

gardens. The grounds have a tropical feel, and the interior is a very tasteful blend of tropical and contemporary. Themed guest rooms include an Oriental room and

a Serengeti (safari) theme room. This latter room opens onto the courtyard pool,

’

as does the Bird Room. The Nautilus Room has a pleasant patio area and a view

S “W

of the mountains.

EST

1681 W. Tenth St., Yuma, AZ 85364. www.theadobehouse.com. 928/210-4777. 4 units. $195–

$245 double. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon wine and appetizers. AE, DISC, MC, V.

C

Pets accepted ($150 deposit plus $25 fee). Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool.

OAST

In room: A/C, TV/DVD, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

”

Best Western Coronado Motor Hotel With its red-tile roofs, white-

washed walls, and archways, this mission-revival building on the edge of down-

Y

town is the picture of a mid-20th-century motel, but rooms are as up-to-date

uma

as you would expect from a major chain. The convenient location puts you

within walking distance of a couple of good restaurants, Yuma Quartermaster

Depot State Historic Park, and the Arizona Historical Society Sanguinetti House

Museum.

233 S. 4th Ave., Yuma, AZ 85364. www.bwcoronado.com. 877/234-5567 or 928/783-4453.

Fax 928/782-7487. 126 units. $80–$113 double; $95–$130 suite. Rates include full breakfast.

Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25

deposit). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools.

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Best Western Plus InnSuites Yuma Mall Hotel & Suites Located just

off I-8, this modern hotel offers an attractive setting and spacious accommoda-

tions at reasonable rates. Although not all the rooms are full suites, all are quite large and have loads of amenities and nice decorative touches. The pool, though

small, is in a pleasant courtyard.

1450 S. Castle Dome Ave., Yuma, AZ 85365. http://yuma.innsuites.com. 800/922-2034 or 928/783-8341. Fax 928/783-1349. 166 units. $79–$129 double. Rates include full breakfast and evening social hour. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 fee). Amenities: Free airport transfers; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; 2

tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

Hilton Garden Inn Yuma Pivot Point This is the best hotel in Yuma and

boasts the best location as well. The property backs up to both Yuma Quarter-

master Depot State Historic Park and the city’s downtown riverfront park on the

Colorado River. A paved walking and biking path also runs past the hotel. Rooms

are large and have great beds and bathrooms with granite counters. While the

hotel is designed primarily for business travelers (there’s a small convention cen-

ter across the parking lot), it also makes a good choice for vacationers looking to

explore downtown Yuma.

310 N. Madison Ave., Yuma, AZ 85364. http://hiltongardeninn.hilton.com. 877/782-9444 or 928/783-1500. Fax 928/783-1540. 150 units. $85–$169 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.

531

11 La Fuente Inn & Suites Conveniently just off the interstate, this appealing

hotel is done in Spanish colonial style with a red-tile roof, pink-stucco walls, and a fountain out front. Lush landscaping and a sort of tropical colonial decor in the

lobby lend the hotel a somewhat exotic, tropical feel. French doors open from

Yuma the lobby onto the pool terrace and a large courtyard, around which the guest

rooms are arranged. Standard units feature modern motel furnishings, while the

”

well-designed suites offer much more space. The Spanish/tropical styling and

pleasant courtyard pool area make this a good place for a sunny winter getaway.

OAST

1513 E. 16th St., Yuma, AZ 85365. www.lafuenteinn.com. 800/841-1814 or 928/329-1814. Fax C

928/343-2671. 96 units. $89–$119 double. Rates include full breakfast and evening happy hour.

EST

Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Free airport transfers; exercise room and access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; pool; free Wi-Fi. In room:

“W

A/C, TV/VCR, fridge, hair dryer, free Internet.

’S

Side Trips

EAST TOWARD TUCSON

RIZONAA

It’s a long stretch of desert from Yuma east to Tucson, and there’s not much to

break up the monotony of the drive. However, keep an eye out for exit 67, the

Dateland exit. Although Dateland Date Gardens ( 928/454-2772; www.

dateland.com) is little more than a gift shop and diner, it is well known for its

thick and delicious date shakes.

The next exit to watch for is exit 102 (Painted Rock Dam Rd.). Getting off

at this exit will lead you north to an impressive collection of petroglyphs at the

Bureau of Land Management’s Painted Rock Petroglyph Site. Drive north on

Painted Rock Dam Road for 11 miles to a left turn onto dirt Rocky Point Road.

Continue another 1⁄2 mile to the parking area. There is a $2 day-use fee here. For

more information, contact the BLM Lower Sonoran Field Office, 21605 N. Sev-

enth Ave., Phoenix ( 623/580-5500; www.blm.gov/az).

WEST TOWARD SAN DIEGO

West of Yuma, I-8 heads out across the California desert toward San Diego, soon

passing through barren, windswept sand dunes that Hollywood has long used to

represent the Sahara. If you pull off the freeway 9 miles west of Yuma at exit 164

(Sidewinder Rd.), you’ll find yourself in the “town” of Felicity ( 760/572-0100; www.felicityusa.com), which, according to town founder Jacques-Andres

Istel, is the center of the world. Actually, it was a dragon in a fairy tale that

claimed that Felicity was the center of the world, and who’s going to argue with

a dragon? The fact that Istel wrote the fairy tale shouldn’t matter. Make a pilgrim-

age to this unusual attraction, and you can stand inside a pyramid at the “exact”

center of the world. As an added bonus, you can admire Istel’s monument to the

history of French aviation and marvel at his granite remembrance walls. The

Official Center of the World is open for tours from Thanksgiving to Easter.

532

12

PLANNING

YOUR TRIP

TO ARIZONA

No matter what your plans are when you arrive in Arizona,

you’ll need to do some planning in advance to make the

most of your visit. This chapter gives you the information

12

to help plan your trip and to point you toward some

additional resources.

e

GETTING THERE

By Plane

Getting Ther Arizona is served by numerous airlines flying to both Phoenix (Code: PHX) and Tucson (Code: TUS) from cities around the U.S. and Canada. Phoenix is the

more centrally located of the two airports and is closer to the Grand Canyon.

However, if you plan to explore the southern part of the state or are going to visit both Phoenix and Tucson, I recommend flying into Tucson, which is a smaller

RIZONA

airport and charges lower taxes on its car rentals. The only drawback is that your

A

plane will probably stop in Phoenix on its way to Tucson. If a trip to the Grand

TO

Canyon is your only reason for visiting Arizona, consider flying into Las Vegas,

RIP

which sometimes has lower airfares and better car-rental rates.

T

Alaska Airlines often has low fares to Arizona. Also, be sure to check the

fares at Southwest Airlines, which does not list its fares on big travel search

OUR

engines. Phoenix and Tucson are both served by most of the major U.S. airlines

Y

and also a handful of international airlines. To find out which airlines travel to

Arizona, please see “Airline Websites,” p. 556.

By Car

LANNINGP

Arizona is bordered on the west by California and Nevada, on the north by Utah,

on the east by New Mexico, and on the south by Mexico. I-40, I-10, and I-8 are the

major east-west highways; I-17 is the state’s only north-south interstate highway.

Using the interstate highways, you can travel between Phoenix and Tucson in a

little more than 11⁄2 hours. From Phoenix to Flagstaff takes about 21⁄2 hours (add

another 11⁄2 hours to get to the Grand Canyon). For information on car rentals,

gasoline, and driving rules in Arizona, see “By Car” under “Getting Around” below.

By Train

Amtrak ( 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) provides service aboard the

Southwest Chief between Flagstaff (for the Grand Canyon) and Los Angeles,

also connecting with Albuquerque, Kansas City, and Chicago. The Sunset Lim-

ited connects Tucson with Orlando, New Orleans, Houston, San Antonio, El

Paso, and Los Angeles. There is no rail service to Phoenix, but Amtrak will sell

you a ticket and then put you on a bus from either Tucson or Flagstaff to Phoenix.

Book early for lower fares.

Amtrak also offers a USA Rail Pass, good for 15, 30, or 45 days of unlim-

ited train travel. The pass is available online or through many overseas travel

agents. See Amtrak’s website for the cost of these passes. Reservations are gener-

ally required and should be made as early as possible.

previous page: Arizona is home to one of the longest stretches of Route 66.

534

By Bus

Greyhound ( 800/231-2222 in the U.S.; 001/214/849-8100 outside the

U.S.; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors

can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery

Pass. The pass, which offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and

Canada, can be obtained outside the United States from travel agents or through 12

www.discoverypass.com.

PLANNING

GETTING AROUND

By Car

Arizona is a big state (the sixth largest), and because many of the state’s top

Y

attractions are national parks, national monuments, and other natural areas, a car

OUR

is almost a necessity for getting the most out of a visit to the state. Unfortunately, car-rental rates are surprisingly high, and the distances that must be covered

TRIP

while exploring Arizona mean that you’ll need to factor fuel costs into your vaca-

tion budget. At the time of this writing, gasoline was selling for between $3.80

TO

and $4.00 per gallon throughout much of Arizona.

A

Because Phoenix and Tucson are major resort destinations, both have

RIZONA

numerous car-rental agencies, including such major rental-car companies as

Advantage, Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, Payless, and

Thrifty. Fox Rent a Car ( 800/225-4369 or 310/641-3838; www.foxrentacar.

com) is a small regional rental-car company that has a rental office at Phoenix

Sky Harbor Airport. Rental rates in Tucson are usually lower than in Phoenix, as

Getting Ar

are the many taxes and surcharges that are tacked onto car-rental rates.

Rates for rental cars vary considerably among companies and with the

model you want to rent, the dates you rent, and your pickup and drop-off points.

It pays to shop early and ask lots of questions. At press time, a compact car with

ound

unlimited mileage was renting in Phoenix for $225 to $250 per week ($350–

$375 including taxes and surcharges) during the winter high season. In Tucson

for the same time period, compact cars were renting for $150 to $250 per week

($200 to $310 with taxes and surcharges).

In the U.S., virtually all rental cars have automatic transmissions. If you’re

visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that

foreign driver’s licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to

consider obtaining an international driver’s license. International visitors should

also note that insurance and taxes are generally not included in quoted rental car

rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these.

They can add a significant cost to your car rental. At gas (petrol) stations, taxes

are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85

imperial gallons.

In Arizona, a right turn on a red light is permitted after a complete stop. Seat

belts are required for the driver and for all passengers. Children 4 and under, or

who weigh 40 pounds or less, must be in a child’s car seat. General speed limits

are 25 to 35 mph in towns and cities, 15 mph in school zones, and 55 to 65 mph

on two-lane highways. On rural interstate highways, the speed limit ranges from

65 to 75 mph.

Always be sure to keep your gas tank topped off. In many parts of the state,

it’s not unusual to drive 60 miles without seeing a gas station. Note: A breakdown in the desert can be more than just an inconvenience—it can be dangerous.

535

Always carry drinking water with you while driving through the desert, and extra

water for the car’s radiator as well.

By Plane

If your time in Arizona is short, you may want to consider flying between cities.

12 US Airways ( 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) serves Phoenix, Tucson, Flagstaff, and Yuma. Great Lakes Airlines ( 800/554-5111 or 307/433-2899; www.flygreatlakes.com) flies between Phoenix and Page/Lake Powell.

Attention visitors to the U.S. from abroad: Some major airlines offer trans-

atlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the names Visit North America and Star Alliance North America Airpass, which allow

e to Stay

mostly one-way travel from one North American destination to another at very

low prices. These discount tickets must be purchased abroad, usually in conjunc-

tion with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country. Inquire with your air carrier.

ips on Wher T By Bus

Greyhound ( 800/231-2222 in the U.S.; 001/214/849-8100 outside the U.S.; www.greyhound.com) has service to 18 cities across the state. Shuttle

bus service between Phoenix, Tucson, Flagstaff, Sedona, Williams, and Grand

RIZONA

Canyon National Park is available through Arizona Shuttle ( 800/888-2749

A

or 928/226-8060; www.arizonashuttle.com). These shuttles are more useful than

TO

Greyhound for traveling the state without a car.

RIP T TIPS ON WHERE TO STAY

OUR

When making hotel reservations for late spring or early fall, find out when hotel

Y

rates drop for the summer or go up for the fall so that you can, if possible, sched-

ule your trip while rates are lower. Many resorts also have a short discounted

season right before Christmas.

As if winter resort rates in Arizona aren’t high enough, you can expect to also

LANNINGP

pay a resort fee at most resorts around the state. These fees, which are generally

around $15 to $20, cover such things as local calls and toll-free phone number

access, daily newspaper delivery, exercise-room use, and in in-room Wi-Fi access.

Remember, if you don’t absolutely need all the amenities of a big resort,

there are dozens of chain-motel options in the Phoenix and Tucson areas. Alter-

natively, you can get a bit more for your money if you head to such smaller towns

as Wickenburg, Bullhead City, Lake Havasu City, and Yuma. If you prefer to stay

in the Phoenix or Tucson area, you can save money by heading for the suburbs.

Most hotels offer special packages, weekend rates, various discounts (such

as for AARP or AAA members), and free accommodations for children, so it

helps to ask when you reserve. Nearly all hotels in the state have smoke-free and

wheelchair-accessible rooms.

If you like to stay at B&Bs, there are a few helpful resources you should

know about. Mi Casa Su Casa ( 800/456-0682 or 480/990-0682; www.

azres.com) can book you into hundreds of homes across the state, as can Ari-

zona Trails Travel Services ( 888/799-4284 or 480/837-4284; www.arizona trails.com), which also books tour and hotel reservations. For a list of some of the best B&Bs in the state, contact the Arizona Association of Bed & Breakfast Inns (www.arizona-bed-breakfast.com).

536

If you’ll be traveling by RV or with a tent, you’ve got loads of camping options

all across Arizona. However, be aware that campgrounds at and near Grand Can-

yon National Park fill up quickly. If you can, make a campsite reservation as far

in advance as possible. To make campsite reservations at national park and

national forest campgrounds, contact the National Recreation Reservation

Service ( 877/444-6777 or 518/885-3639; www.recreation.gov). To reserve campsites in state parks, contact Arizona State Parks ( 520/586-2283; 12

www.azstateparks.com).

P

If you want to rent an RV, try Cruise America ( 800/671-8042; www.

LANNING

cruiseamerica.com), which has offices in Phoenix, Tucson, and Flagstaff. RVs can

also be rented in Phoenix from El Monte RV, 11035 N. Cave Creek Rd. ( 888/

337-2214; www.elmonterv.com). Expect to pay anywhere from $650 to $1,400

per week (plus taxes) depending on the time of year and size of RV you rent.

YOUR

TOURS

TRIP

Academic Trips

TO

If you’d like to turn a trip to the Grand Canyon into an educational experience,

A

the Grand Canyon Field Institute, P.O. Box 399, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023

RIZONA

( 866/471-4435; www.grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute), offers a variety of programs throughout the year, but primarily from early spring to late fall. Examples

include guided hikes and backpacking trips (some for women only) with a natu-

ral-history or ecological slant, photography classes, mule-assisted treks, rafting

trips, and hands-on archaeology trips.

Tours

Learning Expeditions, a program run by the Arizona State Museum,

occasionally offers scholar-led archaeological tours, including a trip to Navajo

and Hopi country. For information, contact the marketing department at the Ari-

zona State Museum, P.O. Box 210026, Tucson, AZ 85721-0026 ( 520/626-

8381; www.statemuseum.arizona.edu).

Through its Ventures program, the Museum of Northern Arizona, 3101

N. Fort Valley Rd., Flagstaff, AZ 86001 ( 928/774-5213, ext. 203; www.

mnaventures.org), offers educational camping, backpacking, and hotel-based

tours primarily in the Colorado Plateau region of northern Arizona. Trips range in

length from 1 to 6 days.

Old Pueblo Archaeology Center, P.O. Box 40577, Tucson, AZ 85717-

0577 ( 520/798-1201; www.oldpueblo.org), is a nonprofit educational and

scientific organization that throughout the years has led numerous archaeology-

oriented trips around Arizona.

Crossing Worlds Journeys & Retreats, P.O. Box 3288, Sedona, AZ

86340 ( 800/350-2693 or 928/282-0846; www.crossingworlds.com), offers

tours throughout the Four Corners region. Trips visit the Hopi mesas as well

as the Navajo Reservation. Journeys of self-discovery are a specialty of this

company.

Finally, if you’re interested in architecture or the ecology of urban design,

you may want to help out on the continued construction of Arcosanti, the slow realization of Paolo Soleri’s dream of a city that merges architecture and ecology.

Located 70 miles north of Phoenix, Arcosanti offers 5-week learning-by-doing

workshops ($1,550 per person) and 1-week seminars ($485 per person). Contact

Arcosanti Workshop Coordinator, H.C. 74, Box 4136, Mayer, AZ 86333 ( 928/

632-6233; www.arcosanti.org).

537

Adventure Trips

Arizona is known for active, adventure-oriented vacations as well as winter golf

and tennis. Whichever category of active vacationer you fall into, you’ll find information below to help you plan your trip.

Twice a year, Canyon Calling, Adventures for Women, 200 Carol Can-

12 yon Dr., Sedona, AZ 86336 ( 928/282-0916; www.canyoncalling.com), offers a 6-day women-only water-oriented tour ($2,095) of central and northern Arizona, as well as a 7-day Southwest tour ($2,195 per person) that visits the Grand

Canyon, Sedona, the Hopi mesas, Canyon de Chelly, Monument Valley, and

Tours many of southern Utah’s national parks and monuments. There are also twice-

yearly 5-day tours of the Sedona area for $1,695.

BICYCLING

With its wide range of climates, Arizona offers good biking somewhere in the state

RIZONA

every month of the year. In winter, there’s good road biking around Phoenix and

A

Tucson, while from spring to fall, the southeastern corner of the state offers good

TO

routes. In summer, the White Mountains (in the eastern part of the state) and Kai-

bab National Forest (between Flagstaff and Grand Canyon National Park) offer

RIP T good mountain biking. There’s also excellent mountain biking at several Phoenix parks, and Tucson is one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in the country.

OUR

Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 ( 800/462-2848

Y

or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), offers 6-day multisport and family trips

that take in southern Utah and the Grand Canyon. These trips range in price

from $1,998 to $2,698. Sojourn Bicycling & Active Vacations, 939 Ferry

Rd., Charlotte, VT 05445 ( 800/730-4771 or 802/425-4771; www.gosojourn.

LANNINGP

com), offers weeklong bike tours of the Sonoran Desert near Tucson. Tours are

$2,495. Western Spirit Cycling Adventures, 478 Mill Creek Dr., Moab, UT

84532 ( 800/845-2453; www.westernspirit.com), has a number of interesting

mountain-bike tours, including trips to the North of the Grand Canyon, Sedona,

and through the desert south of Tucson. Each trip lasts 5 days and costs $1,185.

Arizona the Beautiful

If you’re planning on visiting Grand Can-

Monument, Casa Grande Ruins National

yon National Park, some of the state’s

Monument, Tonto National Monument,

other national parks and monuments, and

Tumacácori National Historical Park, and

perhaps some of the national parks in

a handful of other sites. A pass can be

southern Utah, New Mexico, or Colo-

purchased at any national park or

rado, you should consider getting an

national monument that charges an

America the Beautiful—National Park

admission fee. For more information,

and Federal Recreational Lands Pass.

go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or

This pass costs $80 and is valid for 1 year.

call the United States Geological Survey/

In Arizona, the pass will get you into

USGS ( 888/275-8747), which issues

Grand Canyon National Park, Saguaro

the passes. For information on America

National Park, Petrified Forest National

the Beautiful passes for seniors and peo-

Park, Organ Pipe Cactus National

ple with disabilities, see “Fast Facts” later

Monument, Montezuma Castle

in this chapter.

National Monument, Wupatki National

538

Arizona Outback Adventures, 16447 N. 91st St., Ste. 101, Scottsdale,

AZ 85260 ( 866/455-1601 or 480/945-2881; www.aoa-adventures.com),

does 3-day trips in the Sonoran Desert for $599.

WomanTours, 2340 Elmwood Ave., Rochester, NY 14618 ( 800/247-

1444 or 585/256-9807; www.womantours.com), offers a “spring training” Arizona bike tour that is exclusively for women. You’ll pay $1,890 for this 7-day tour.

For information on mountain-bike tours and recommended rides in Phoenix 12

and Tucson, see “Outdoor Activities” in chapters 4 and 9. You’ll also find recom-

P

mended rides in the Sedona and Prescott sections of chapter 5. If you plan to do

LANNING

much mountain biking around the state, pick up a copy of Fat Tire Tales and

Trails, by Cosmic Ray. This little book of rides is both fun to read and fun to use; it’s available in bike shops around the state.

Y

BIRD-WATCHING

OUR

Arizona is a birder’s bonanza. In the southeastern corner of the state, many spe-

T

cies found primarily south of the border reach the northern limits of their ranges.

RIP

Combine this with several mountains that rise like islands from the desert and

provide appropriate habitat for hundreds of species, and you have some of the

TO

best bird-watching in the country.

A

Birding hot spots include Ramsey Canyon Preserve (known for its many

RIZONA

species of hummingbirds); Cave Creek Canyon (nesting site for elegant trogons);

Patagonia–Sonoita Creek Sanctuary (home to 22 species of flycatchers, king-

birds, and phoebes, as well as Montezuma quails); Madera Canyon (another

“mountain island” hot spot that attracts many of the same species seen at Ramsey

T

Canyon and Sonoita Creek); Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge (home to

ours

masked bobwhite quails and gray hawks); and the sewage ponds outside the

town of Willcox (known for avocets and sandhill cranes). For further information

on these birding spots, see chapter 10. To find out which birds have been spotted

lately or to join a bird-watching field trip, call the Tucson Audubon Society’s

Rare Bird Alert line ( 520/629-0510, ext. 3; www.tucsonaudubon.org).

Serious birders eager to add lots of rare birds to their life lists may want to

visit southeastern Arizona on a guided tour. These are available through High

Lonesome Birdtours, 570 S. Little Bear Trail, Sierra Vista, AZ 85635 ( 443/

838-6589; www.hilonesometours.com), which charges $1,150 per person for a

5-day trip, $1,475 for a 6-day trip, and $2,450 for an 8-day trip.

CANOEING/KAYAKING

By far the most memorable place for a flat-water kayak tour is Lake Powell. Mul-

tiday kayak tours are offered by Hidden Canyon Kayak, P.O. Box 2526, Page,

AZ 86040 ( 928/660-1836 or 928/660-0694; www.hiddencanyonkayak.com),

which charges $1,100 to $1,200 for 5-day trips. Guided kayak trips are also

offered by Kayak Powell, 816 Coppermine Rd. (P.O. Box 4780), Page, AZ

86040 ( 928/660-0778; www.kayakpowell.com), which charges $433 for a

3-day tour, $666 for a 5-day tour, and $999 for an 11-day tour.

There are also a couple of companies that rent canoes and offer trips on the

Colorado River south of Lake Mead. See chapter 11 for details.

FISHING

The fishing scene in Arizona is as diverse as the landscape. Large and small lakes

around the state offer excellent fishing for warm-water game fish such as

539

B

Agua Caliente Park 3

G

C o

i

SAN CARLOS APACHE

INDIAN RESERVATION

SAN CARLOS

191

l

r n

78

Apache Station Wildlife

a

APACHE

e

R

e i

Arizona

i

t

v

70

INDIAN

Gila Box Riparian

e

k a

r

Viewing Area 25

Winkelman

RESERVATION

Nat’l Conservation Area

10

G

Aravaipa Canyon 1

Birding Guide

1

ila R

23

G R E E N L E E

Arivaca Cienega 6

iv

Dudleyville

e

Aravaipa

r

C O U N T Y

Beatty’s Miller Canyon

0

15 mi

Aravaipa Rd. Canyon

Klondyke Rd.

Pima

Solomon Pass Rd.

G

Guest Ranch & Orchard 13

Wilderness

Safford

i 75

8

0

15 km

Thatcher

la

Buenos Aires National

191

R

Wildlife Area 5

77

21

ive

22

r

Carr Canyon 14

70

Cave Creek Canyon 26

Mammoth

Duncan

Cochise Lakes 24

Ar

Coronado

av

Discovery Park 21

a

National

ip

P I N A L C O U N T Y

a Rd

Garden Canyon 16

.

Forest

191

Gila Box Riparian National

79

Oracle

Coronado

266

Conservation Area 23

To Phoenix

National

Holy Trinity Monastery 19

Forest

G R A H A M C O U N T Y

Las Cienegas National

Conservation Area 8

S

Madera Canyon 7

10

77

an

Muleshoe Ranch Cooperative

P

Oro Valley

ed

Management Area 20

ro

Sabino

Patagonia Lake State Park/

Picture

2

Ina Rd.

Canyon Rd.

Sonoita Creek State

Rocks Rd.

Bowie

Coronado

20

Natural Area 11

National

Saguaro

4

R

M

Patagonia Roadside

Forest

i

10

Nat’l Park

Catalina Hwy.

3

v

u

e

l

Rest Area 12

Sandario Rd.

e

r

s

Willcox

h

Airport Rd.

K

o

San Simon

in

Gates Pass

e Rd.

Patagonia-Sonoita Creek

ne

TUCSON

Rd.

y

24

Saguaro

Preserve 9

Rd.

4 National

Dos Cabezas

DAVIS

186

Paton’s Birder’s Haven 10

O

MONTHAN

l

Park

d

Willcox

Ramsey Canyon Preserve 15

86

AFB

Spa

Playa

n

Roper Lake State Park 22

i

10

s

Houghton Rd

h Tr

Sabino Canyon 2

SAN XAVIER

.

Cochise

INDIAN

Vail Rd.

Chiricahua

Saguaro National Park 4

86

RESERVATION

25

C O C H I S E

Mt. View

National

San Bernardino National

C O U N T Y

Monument

191

Wildlife Refuge 29

10

Benson

19

San Pedro Riparian

181

Sunsites

Conservation Area 18

St. David Coronado

Portal

Green Valley

Sierra Vista Wastewater

National

iver

83

Pearce

Sunizona

Forest

Wetlands 17

19

26

P I M A C O U N T Y

Slaughter Ranch 28

ruz R

90

Chiricahua

Whitewater Draw

8

80

Wilderness

Wildlife Area 27

Arivaca

Coronado

Coronado

Junction

National

National

TOHONO

Buenos Aires

Santa C

7

Fairbank

Tombstone

Forest

Forest

Amado

82

O’ODHAM

National

Sonoita

Wildlife

San Pedro

Elfrida

INDIAN

Refuge

Arivaca Rd.

Elgin

Huachuca City Riparian

18

RESERVATION

Tubac

S A N T A C R U Z 82

80

5

FORT HUACHUCA

National

C O U N T Y

McNeal

Flagstaff

10

6

MILITARY

Tumacacori

Patagonia Lake

17 Conservation

ARIZONA

9

U

RES.

N

Phoenix

I

State Park

Patagonia

Sierra

Area

T

27

E

191

D S

Vista

90

M

T

E

A

Tucson

X

T

11

12

16

I

E

C

S

O

Coronado

19

92

Area of

National

15

Bisbee

detail

Forest

Hereford

14

80

Unpaved road

Palominas

13

80

Intermittent stream

Coronado

92

Douglas

28 29

Nogales

Nat’l Memorial

Naco

Agua Prieta

540

B

Agua Caliente Park 3

G

C o

i

SAN CARLOS APACHE

INDIAN RESERVATION

SAN CARLOS

191

l

r n

78

Apache Station Wildlife

a

APACHE

e

R

e i

Arizona

i

t

v

70

INDIAN

Gila Box Riparian

e

k a

r

Viewing Area 25

Winkelman

RESERVATION

Nat’l Conservation Area

10

G

Aravaipa Canyon 1

Birding Guide

1

ila R

23

G R E E N L E E

Arivaca Cienega 6

iv

Dudleyville

e

Aravaipa

r

C O U N T Y

Beatty’s Miller Canyon

0

15 mi

Aravaipa Rd. Canyon

Klondyke Rd.

Pima

Solomon Pass Rd.

G

Guest Ranch & Orchard 13

Wilderness

Safford

i 75

8

0

15 km

Thatcher

la

Buenos Aires National

191

R

Wildlife Area 5

77

21

ive

22

r

Carr Canyon 14

70

Cave Creek Canyon 26

Mammoth

Duncan

Cochise Lakes 24

Ar

Coronado

av

Discovery Park 21

a

National

ip

P I N A L C O U N T Y

a Rd

Garden Canyon 16

.

Forest

191

Gila Box Riparian National

79

Oracle

Coronado

266

Conservation Area 23

To Phoenix

National

Holy Trinity Monastery 19

Forest

G R A H A M C O U N T Y

Las Cienegas National

Conservation Area 8

S

Madera Canyon 7

10

77

an

Muleshoe Ranch Cooperative

P

Oro Valley

ed

Management Area 20

ro

Sabino

Patagonia Lake State Park/

Picture

2

Ina Rd.

Canyon Rd.

Sonoita Creek State

Rocks Rd.

Bowie

Coronado

20

Natural Area 11

National

Saguaro

4

R

M

Patagonia Roadside

Forest

i

10

Nat’l Park

Catalina Hwy.

3

v

u

e

l

Rest Area 12

Sandario Rd.

e

r

s

Willcox

h

Airport Rd.

K

o

San Simon

in

Gates Pass

e Rd.

Patagonia-Sonoita Creek

ne

TUCSON

Rd.

y

24

Saguaro

Preserve 9

Rd.

4 National

Dos Cabezas

DAVIS

186

Paton’s Birder’s Haven 10

O

MONTHAN

l

Park

d

Willcox

Ramsey Canyon Preserve 15

86

AFB

Spa

Playa

n

Roper Lake State Park 22

i

10

s

Houghton Rd

h Tr

Sabino Canyon 2

SAN XAVIER

.

Cochise

INDIAN

Vail Rd.

Chiricahua

Saguaro National Park 4

86

RESERVATION

25

C O C H I S E

Mt. View

National

San Bernardino National

C O U N T Y

Monument

191

Wildlife Refuge 29

10

Benson

19

San Pedro Riparian

181

Sunsites

Conservation Area 18

St. David Coronado

Portal

Green Valley

Sierra Vista Wastewater

National

iver

83

Pearce

Sunizona

Forest

Wetlands 17

19

26

P I M A C O U N T Y

Slaughter Ranch 28

ruz R

90

Chiricahua

Whitewater Draw

8

80

Wilderness

Wildlife Area 27

Arivaca

Coronado

Coronado

Junction

National

National

TOHONO

Buenos Aires

Santa C

7

Fairbank

Tombstone

Forest

Forest

Amado

82

O’ODHAM

National

Sonoita

Wildlife

San Pedro

Elfrida

INDIAN

Refuge

Arivaca Rd.

Elgin

Huachuca City Riparian

18

RESERVATION

Tubac

S A N T A C R U Z 82

80

5

FORT HUACHUCA

National

C O U N T Y

McNeal

Flagstaff

10

6

MILITARY

Tumacacori

Patagonia Lake

17 Conservation

ARIZONA

9

U

RES.

N

Phoenix

I

State Park

Patagonia

Sierra

Area

T

27

E

191

D S

Vista

90

M

T

E

A

Tucson

X

T

11

12

16

I

E

C

S

O

Coronado

19

92

Area of

National

15

Bisbee

detail

Forest

Hereford

14

80

Unpaved road

Palominas

13

80

Intermittent stream

Coronado

92

Douglas

28 29

Nogales

Nat’l Memorial

Naco

Agua Prieta

541

largemouth, smallmouth, and striped bass. Good trout fishing can be found in

lakes atop the Mogollon Rim and in the White Mountains, as well as in the easily

accessible section of the free-running Colorado River between Glen Canyon

Dam and Lees Ferry just upstream from the Grand Canyon. In fact, this latter

area is among the country’s most fabled stretches of trout water.

12

Fishing licenses for nonresidents are available for 1 day, 5 days, 4 months,

and 1 year. Various special stamps and licenses may also apply. Nonresident fees

range from $17 for a 1-day license (valid for trout) to $70 for a 1-year license ($58

additional for a trout stamp). A separate license ($49) is available for fishing just the Colorado River. Keep in mind that if you’re heading for an Indian reservation,

Tours you’ll have to get a special permit for that reservation. For information on Arizona state fishing licenses, contact the Arizona Game and Fish Dept., 5000 W.

Carefree Hwy., Phoenix, AZ 85086-5000 ( 602/942-3000; www.azgfd.com).

GOLF

RIZONA A You don’t have to be a hotshot golfer to get all heated up over the prospect of a few rounds of golf in Arizona. Combine near-perfect golf weather most of the

TO

year with great views and some unique challenges, and you’ve got all the makings

RIP

of a great game. Phoenix and Tucson are known as winter golf destinations, but

T

the state also offers golf throughout the year at higher-altitude courses in such

places as Prescott, Flagstaff, and the White Mountains.

OUR Y

State water-conservation legislation limits the acreage that new Ari-

zona golf courses can irrigate, which has given the state some of the most distinc-

tive and difficult courses in the country. These desert or “target” courses are

characterized by minimal fairways surrounded by natural desert landscapes. If

LANNING

your ball comes to rest in the desert, you can play the ball where it lies or, with a P

one-stroke penalty, drop it within two club lengths of the nearest point of grass

(but no nearer the hole).

In Phoenix and Tucson, greens fees, like room rates, are seasonal. In the

popular winter months, greens fees at resort courses generally range from about

$150 to $250 for 18 holes, although this usually includes a golf cart. In summer,

fees often drop to less than half this amount. Almost all resorts offer special golf packages as well.

The state’s top courses are clustered around Phoenix and Tucson, but we’ve

provided information on golfing around the state in the “Outdoor Activities” sec-

tions in each chapter.

For more information on golfing in Arizona, contact the Arizona Golf

Association, 7226 N. 16th St., Ste. 200, Phoenix, AZ 85020 ( 800/458-

8484 in Arizona, or 602/944-3035; www.azgolf.org), which maintains an online

directory listing all the courses in the state. In addition, you can pick up the Arizona Golf Guide (www.azgolfguides.com) at visitor centers, golf courses, and many hotels and resorts.

HIKING/BACKPACKING

Arizona offers some of the most fascinating and challenging hiking in the country.

All across the state’s lowland deserts, parks and other public lands are laced with

trails that lead past saguaro cacti, to the tops of desert peaks, and deep into rugged canyons. The state also has vast forests, many of which are protected in wilderness

areas, which have many more miles of hiking trails. In northern Arizona, there are

good day hikes in Grand Canyon National Park, in the San Francisco Peaks north

542

of Flagstaff, near Lake Powell, and in Navajo National Monument. In the Phoenix

area, popular day hikes include the trails up Camelback Mountain and Piestewa

Peak, and the many trails in South Mountain Park. In the Tucson area, there are

good hikes in Saguaro National Park, Coronado National Forest, Sabino Canyon,

and Catalina State Park. In the southern part of the state, there are good day hikes in Chiricahua National Monument, Coronado National Forest, Cochise Stronghold, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, and the Nature Conservancy’s 12

Ramsey Canyon Preserve and its Patagonia–Sonoita Creek Sanctuary.

P

The state’s two most unforgettable overnight backpack trips are the hike

LANNING

down to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon and the hike into

Havasu Canyon, a side canyon of the Grand Canyon. A third popular backpack-

ing trip is through Paria Canyon, a narrow slot canyon that originates in Utah and

terminates in Arizona at Lees Ferry. There are also many overnight opportunities

YOUR

in the San Francisco Peaks north of Flagstaff and in the White Mountains of

eastern Arizona.

T

Guided backpacking trips of different durations and difficulty levels are

RIP

offered by the Grand Canyon Field Institute, P.O. Box 399, Grand Canyon,

TO

AZ 86023 ( 866/471-4435; www.grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute), and by

Discovery Treks, 28248 N. Tatum Blvd., Ste. B1, no. 414, Cave Creek, AZ

ARIZONA

85331 ( 888/256-8731; www.discoverytreks.com).

Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 ( 800/462-2848

or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), better known for its bike trips, also

offers a 6-day hiking/biking trip to Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, and Zion

national parks for between $1,998 and $2,698.

T

Vermont-based Country Walkers, P.O. Box 180, Waterbury, VT 05676

ours

( 800/464-9255 or 802/244-1387; www.countrywalkers.com), has a 6-day

hiking-oriented trip that takes in the Grand Canyon and Sedona and costs

$2,998.

If you long to explore the desert wilderness but don’t want to have to carry a

heavy pack, contact Purple Mountain Pack Goats, P.O. Box 1345, Tucson,

AZ 85702-1345 ( 520/403-4056; www.purplemountainpackgoats.com). This

company leads day and overnight hikes that use specially trained goats as pack

animals. A real cowboy might not approve of one of these critters carrying his

saddlebag, but after a hot hike, you’ll likely be glad you’ve got one of these sure-

footed goats by your side.

HORSEBACK RIDING/WESTERN ADVENTURES

Saddle up that palomino, pardner, and let’s ride. Arizona is a city slicker’s dream

come true. All over Arizona there are stables where you can climb into the saddle

of a sure-footed trail horse and ride off into the sunset. Among the more scenic

spots for riding are Grand Canyon National Park, Monument Valley Navajo

Tribal Park, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, the red-rock country around

Sedona, Phoenix’s South Mountain Park, the foot of the Superstition Mountains

east of Phoenix, and the foot of the Santa Catalina Mountains outside Tucson.

See the individual chapters that follow for listings of riding stables.

Among the most popular guided adventures in Arizona are the mule rides

down into the Grand Canyon. These trips vary in length from 2 to 3 days; for

reservations and more information, contact Grand Canyon National Park

Lodges/Xanterra Parks & Resorts ( 888/297-2757, 303/297-2757, or, for last-minute reservations, 928/638-2631; www.grandcanyonlodges.com). You’ll

543

need to make mule-ride reservations many months in advance. However, if at the

last minute (1 or 2 days before you want to ride) you decide you want to go on a

mule trip into the Grand Canyon, contact Grand Canyon National Park Lodges

at its last-minute reservations phone number (see above), or stop by the Bright

Angel Transportation Desk, in Grand Canyon Village. Spaces sometimes

12 open up when there are last-minute cancellations.

It’s also possible to do overnight horseback rides in various locations around

the state. For information on overnight rides into the Superstition Mountains

east of Phoenix, contact Don Donnelly’s D-Spur Ranch & Riding Stables

( 602/810-7029; www.dondonnelly.com).

Tours

Want to kick it up a notch? At the Arizona Cowboy College, Lorill Eques-

trian Center, 30208 N. 152nd St., Scottsdale, AZ 85262 ( 480/471-3151;

www.cowboycollege.com), you can literally learn the ropes and the brands and

how to say “Git along little doggie!” like you really mean it. This is no city slicker’s RIZONA

staged roundup; this is the real thing. You actually learn how to be a real cowboy.

A

Six-day programs cost $2,250.

TO

HOT-AIR BALLOONING

RIP

For much of the year, the desert has the perfect environment for hot-air balloon-

T

ing—cool, still air and wide-open spaces. Consequently, dozens of ballooning

companies operate across the state. Most are in Phoenix and Tucson, but several

OUR Y others operate near Sedona, which is by far the most picturesque spot in the state for a balloon ride. See the individual chapters for specific information.

HOUSEBOATING

LANNING

With the Colorado River turned into a string of long reservoirs, houseboat vaca-

P

tions are a natural in Arizona. Although this doesn’t have to be an active vacation, fishing, hiking, and swimming are usually an essential part of spending time on a

houseboat. Rentals are available on Lake Powell, Lake Mead, and Lake Mohave;

however, the canyon scenery of Lake Powell makes it the hands-down best spot

for a houseboat vacation. Make reservations well in advance for a summer trip.

No prior experience (or license) is necessary, and plenty of hands-on instruction

is provided before you leave the marina. See chapters 7 and 11 for more informa-

tion on houseboat rentals.

SKIING

Although Arizona is better known as a desert state, it also has snow-capped moun-

tains and even a few ski areas. The two biggest and best ski areas are Arizona

Snowbowl ( 928/779-1951; www.arizonasnowbowl.com), outside Flagstaff, and Sunrise Park Resort ( 800/772-7669 or 928/735-7669; www.sunrise

skipark.com), on the White Mountain Apache Reservation outside the town of

McNary in the White Mountains. Snowbowl is more popular because of the ease

of the drive from Phoenix and the proximity to good lodging and dining options in

Flagstaff. However, despite the convenience and the fact that Snowbowl has more

vertical feet of skiing, Sunrise is my favorite Arizona ski area because it offers

almost twice as many runs. Both ski areas offer rentals and lessons.

When it’s a good snow year, Tucsonans head up to Mount Lemmon’s Ski

Valley ( 520/576-1321; www.skithelemmon.com), the southernmost ski area in the U.S. Snows here aren’t as reliable as they are farther north, so be sure to

call first to make sure the ski area is operating.

544

During snow-blessed winters, cross-country skiers can find plenty of snow-

covered forest roads outside Flagstaff, at Sunrise Park outside the town of

McNary, at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, in the White Mountains around

Greer and Alpine, and on Mount Lemmon outside Tucson.

TENNIS

After golf, tennis is probably the most popular winter sport in the desert, and 12

resorts all over Arizona have tennis courts. Keep in mind that many resorts

P

require you to wear traditional tennis attire and don’t include court time in the

LANNING

room rates. No courts anywhere in the state can match the views you’ll have from

those at Enchantment Resort, outside Sedona. Other noteworthy tennis-oriented

resorts include, in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, the Phoenician, the Fairmont

Scottsdale, the Arizona Grand Resort, and the Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs

Y

Resort; and, in Tucson, the Lodge at Ventana Canyon, the Hilton Tucson El

OUR

Conquistador Golf & Tennis Resort, the Westin La Paloma Resort & Spa, the

T

Westward Look Resort, and the Omni Tucson National Resort.

RIP

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

TO

The desert doesn’t support a lot of roaring rivers, but with the white water in the

A

Grand Canyon, you don’t need too many other choices. Rafting the Grand Can-

RIZONA

yon is the dream of nearly every white-water enthusiast—if it’s one of yours as

well, plan well ahead. Companies and trips are limited, and they tend to fill up

early. For a discussion and list of companies that run trips down the canyon, see

chapter 6.

For 1-day rafting trips on the Colorado below the main section of the Grand

Tours

Canyon, contact Hualapai River Runners ( 888/868-9378; www.grand

canyonwest.com). For a half-day float on the Colorado above the Grand Canyon,

contact Colorado River Discovery ( 888/522-6644 or 928/645-9175; www.

raftthecanyon.com), which runs trips between Glen Canyon Dam and Lees Ferry.

Rafting trips are also available on the upper Salt River east of Phoenix. Wil-

derness Aware Rafting ( 800/462-7238; www.inaraft.com), Canyon Rio Rafting ( 800/272-3353; www.canyonrio.com), and Mild to Wild Rafting ( 800/567-6745; www.mild2wildrafting.com) all run trips of varying lengths

down this river (conditions permitting).

Food & Wine Trips

If you’d like to learn how to cook Southwestern cuisine while you’re in Arizona,

consider booking a class with celebrated Tucson chef Janos Wilder, who offers

2-hour classes ($50 per person) at his eponymously named restaurant at the

Westin La Paloma Resort. See p. 425 for information on Janos restaurant. There are also monthly cooking classes offered at Casa de San Pedro, a bed-and-breakfast inn in southeastern Arizona near the city of Sierra Vista. See p. 486 for

information on the inn.

The desert may not seem like wine country, but Arizona has such a diversity

of climates that it actually has several separate wine regions. Tours to the central Arizona wine country near Sedona, the Elgin/Sonoita region, and to southeastern

Arizona are offered by AZ Wine Tours ( 480/528-2834; www.azwinetours.

com). See chapters 5 and 9 for information on touring Arizona wine country.

545

Guided & Package Tours

If you want to see the best of Arizona, but would rather not do all the logistical

planning or driving, then you might want to consider a guided tour. Detours

( 866/438-6877; www.detoursaz.com) specializes in small-group tours

throughout Arizona and other parts of the Southwest. One of its tours, Hiller-

12 man Country, is a 5-day journey through northern Arizona with a focus on spots that have been mentioned in Tony Hillerman novels about Navajo Tribal Police

officers Jim Chee and Joe Leaphorn. Open Road Tours USA ( 855/563-

8830 or 602/997-6474; www.openroadtours.com) offers a variety of 1- to 5-day

Tours tours around the state. Most of these focus on the Grand Canyon or Sedona. The British tour company Trek America ( 800/873-5872 or 844/576-1400 in the U.K.; www.trekamerica.com) specializes in off-the-beaten-path small-group

adventure travel and offers tours of the American Southwest; most include stops

at the Grand Canyon and other scenic locations in Arizona. For a tour of some of

RIZONA

Arizona’s and Utah’s most spectacular scenery, check out the Southwest Splen-

A

dor tour offered each year by High Point Tours ( 928/445-2639; www.ilive TO

history.com). Company co-owner and guide Todd Weber, an experienced living-

history presenter, highlights not only the area’s fascinating geology but also its

RIP T more colorful historical characters.

One great place to shop for Arizona vacation packages is at www.arizona

OUR

vacationvalues.com, a website sponsored by the Arizona Office of Tourism

Y

( 866/275-5816). This website is a clearinghouse for a wide variety of

packages.

If you’re coming to Arizona specifically to play golf, you might want to let a

golf packager arrange your trip for you. For vacations in Scottsdale or Tucson,

LANNINGP

contact Arizona Golf Packages ( 800/767-3574; www.arizonagolfpackages.

com). For vacations in Tucson, contact the affiliated Tucson Golf Tours ( 800/

767-3574; www.tucsongolftours.com).

Volunteer & Working Trips

If you enjoy the wilderness and want to get more involved in its preservation,

consider a Sierra Club service trip. These trips are for building, restoring, and

maintaining hiking trails in wilderness areas. Contact the Sierra Club Outings

Dept., 85 Second St., 2nd Floor, San Francisco, CA 94105 ( 415/977-5522; www.sierraclub.org). The Sierra Club also offers hiking, camping, and other

adventure trips to various destinations in Arizona.

You can also join a work crew organized by the Arizona Trail Association,

P.O. Box 36736, Phoenix, AZ 85067-6736 ( 602/252-4794; www.aztrail.org).

These crews spend 1 to 2 days maintaining various portions of the 800-mile Ari-

zona Trail, which stretches from the Utah state line to the Mexico border.

Another sort of service trip is offered by the National Park Service. It

accepts volunteers to pick up garbage left by thoughtless visitors to Glen Canyon

National Recreation Area. In exchange for picking up trash, you’ll get to spend 5

or 7 days on a houseboat called the Trash Tracker, cruising through the gorgeous

canyonlands of Lake Powell. Volunteers must be at least 18 years old and in good

physical condition, and must provide their own food, sleeping bag, and transpor-

tation to the marina. For information, contact Glen Canyon National Recre-

ation Area, Attn: Trash Tracker, P.O. Box 1507, Page, AZ 86040 ( 928/

608-6350; www.nps.gov/glca/supportyourpark/trashtracker.htm).

546

ARIZONA

Area Codes The area code in Phoenix is 602. In Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa, and the

east valley, it’s 480. In Glendale and the west valley, it’s 623. The area code for Tucson and southeastern Arizona is 520. The rest of the state is area code 928.

Business Hours The following are general hours; specific establishments’ hours may

12

vary. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm (some also Sat 9am–noon).

Stores are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm, and Sunday from noon

PLANNING

to 5pm (malls usually stay open until 9pm Mon–Sat). Bars are legally allowed to be open until 2am.

Car Rental See “By Car” under “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Cellphones

Y

See “Mobile Phones,” later in this section.

OUR

Crime See “Safety,” later in this section.

T

Customs For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your near-RIP

est U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.cbp.gov).

TO

Disabled Travelers Almost all public establishments (including hotels, restaurants, museums, and such, but not including certain National Historic Landmarks) and at least ARIZONA

some modes of public transportation provide accessible entrances and other facilities for those with disabilities.

If you have no intention of letting your disability prevent you from having the adventure of a lifetime, contact Arizona River Runners, P.O. Box 47788, Phoenix, AZ 85068 ( 800/

477-7238; www.raftarizona.com), or Arizona Raft Adventures, 4050 E. Huntington Dr.,

Drinking Laws

Flagstaff, AZ 86004 ( 800/786-7238; www.azraft.com), both of which offer Grand Canyon rafting trips for people with disabilities. In the northwest corner of the state, Stagecoach Trails Guest Ranch, 19985 S. Doc Holliday Rd. (P.O. Box 580), Yucca, AZ 86438 ( 866/

444-4471 or 928/727-8270; www.stagecoachtrailsranch.com), is a guest ranch that was

designed with the needs of persons with disabilities in mind. All the ranch buildings are accessible, and there are horseback riding programs for persons with disabilities.

The

America the Beautiful—National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass—

Access Pass gives travelers with visual impairments or those with permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service. This includes national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass can only be obtained in person at a National

Park Service facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of a medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call the United States Geological Survey/USGS ( 888/275-8747; www.usgs.gov), which issues

the passes.

Doctors To find a doctor, check with the front desk or concierge at your hotel or look in the yellow pages of the local telephone book under “Physician.” Also see the “Doctor” or

“Doctors & Hospitals” listings in the “Fast Facts” sections of the Phoenix and Tucson chapters (chapters 4 and 9).

Drinking Laws The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is

21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. In Arizona, liquor is sold at supermarkets.

547

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated.

Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

12 Electricity Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand.

Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates All embassies are in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C.

Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, call for directory information in Driving Rules Washington, D.C. ( 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036

( 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in Chicago, Denver, Hono-

lulu, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001

RIZONA

( 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). There are Canadian

A

consulates in 20 cities across the United States.

TO

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008

( 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, RIP T New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008

OUR

( 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates can be found in more

Y

than a dozen cities across the U.S.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington,

DC 20008 ( 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and LANNINGP

Seattle.

Emergencies Call 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance any-

where in the U.S. This is a toll-free call. (No coins are required at public telephones.) Family Travel With its sunshine, swimming pools, guest ranches, and baseball spring-training camps, Arizona is a popular spring-break destination for families from around the country, especially those from cold, snowy northern states. Likewise, in summer, the state is popular for its many natural wonders, foremost of which is the Grand Canyon. If you plan to take in the canyon on a road trip that also takes in the canyon country of southern Utah, keep in mind that distances are great out here. Don’t expect to find someplace to eat whenever the kids are hungry; pack food before heading out on a long drive. Also bring plenty to entertain the kids as you drive for hours through uninteresting scenery.

For recommendations of kid-friendly activities, see “The Best Family Experiences” in chapter 1. To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, see the “Kids” icon throughout this guide. Also, check out the “Especially for Kids” sections of the Phoenix and Tucson chapters (chapters 4 and 9). Many of the resorts in Phoenix and Tucson offer children’s programs, though these programs may only be

available during spring break and the hot summer months. In the absence of children’s programs, many hotel and resort concierges throughout the state can recommend

babysitters.

Gasoline Please see “By Car” under “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

548

Health If you’ve never been to the desert, be sure to prepare yourself for this harsh environment. No matter what time of year it is, the desert sun is strong and bright. Use sunscreen when outdoors—particularly if you’re up in the mountains, where the altitude makes sunburn more likely. The bright sun also makes sunglasses a necessity. Also, in the desert, even when you don’t feel hot, the dry air steals moisture from your body, so drink plenty of fluids. You may want to use a body lotion as well; skin dries out quickly in the desert.

12

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns It’s not only the sun that makes the desert a P

harsh environment. Poisonous creatures are out there, too, but with a little common sense LANNING

and some precautions, you can avoid them. Rattlesnakes are common, but your chances

of meeting one are slight—they tend not to come out in the heat of the day. Still, you should never stick your hand into holes among the rocks in the desert, and always look to see where you’re going to step before putting your foot down. Arizona is also home to the YOUR

Gila monster, a large poisonous lizard. These black-and-orange lizards are far less common than rattlesnakes, and your chances of meeting one are very slight. Although the tarantula T

has developed a nasty reputation, the tiny black widow is more likely to cause illness. Scor-RIP

pions are another danger of the desert. Be extra careful when turning over rocks or logs TO

that might harbor either black widows or scorpions.

Respiratory & Desert Illnesses Valley fever, a fungal infection of the lungs, is common ARIZONA

in the desert Southwest, although it generally affects only long-term residents of the desert. The fungus is carried on dust particles, which are carried by dust storms and winds blowing across farms and construction sites. Symptoms include fever, chest pain, fatigue, headaches, and rashes. By the way, if you happen to be atop a mountain in Phoenix and can’t see across the Valley, blame it on the smog, which is as bad as that in Los Angeles.

Insurance

If you plan to do any camping or backcountry travel in the Four Corners region, which is where the Navajo and Hopi Indian reservations are located, you should be aware of hantavirus. This virus is spread by mice and is often fatal. Symptoms include fatigue, fever, and muscle aches; should you come down with any such symptoms within 1 to 5 weeks of traveling through the Four Corners area, see a doctor and mention that you have been in an area where hantavirus is known to occur.

High-Altitude Hazards Both the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and the canyon gate-

way city of Flagstaff are at around 7,000 feet (2,133 meters) in elevation and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is at 8,000 feet (2,438 meters). While these elevations are generally not high enough to cause altitude sickness even in the most sensitive, they are high enough to cause shortness of breath after even moderate exercise if you are from lower elevations. Take it slow, and remember that if you hike down into the Grand Canyon, you’ll really feel the elevation when you turn around and start hiking back out.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure “It’s a dry heat” is a mantra in the lowland

deserts of Arizona. What this means is that, in the absence of humidity, the air always seems quite a bit cooler than it does on a hot day in, say, Atlanta, Houston, or Miami. Trust me. When it’s hot here, it’s hot. Drink lots of fluids, and wear plenty of sunscreen. In fact, it is so sunny in Arizona most of the time (even in the winter), that you should be sure to wear sunscreen whenever you’re outdoors here. If you should happen to be visiting during the late summer monsoon season, be alert for flash floods. Do not ignore signs on roadways warning motorists not to enter flooded areas. The monsoon season also brings

impressive thunderstorms, and should you encounter a thunderstorm at the Grand Can-

yon, seek cover immediately (cars are among the safest places to be).

Insurance For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

549

Internet & Wi-Fi Nearly anywhere you go in Arizona, even on Indian reservations, you can find some way to connect to the Internet. Among the more common places to get

access to the Internet are cybercafes, public libraries, and in hotel lobbies where computers are often available for guests’ use. See “Fast Facts” in chapters 4 (p. 73) and 9 (p. 387) for details on Internet access in the Phoenix and Tucson areas.

12 Legal Aid While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands i-Fi

of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is sus-net & W

pected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy Inter or consulate.

LGBT Travelers As elsewhere in the U.S., the major cities in Arizona (Phoenix and

Tucson) are large enough to support businesses and organizations catering specifically to the gay and lesbian communities. At gay bars around Phoenix and Tucson, you can pick up various gay-oriented local publications, including Echo Magazine ( 888/324-6624

RIZONA A or 602/266-0550; www.echomag.com).

For information on gay- and lesbian-friendly businesses in the Phoenix metro area,

TO

contact the Greater Phoenix Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce ( 602/266-5055;

RIP

www.gpglcc.org). Wingspan, 430 E. 7th St., Tucson ( 520/624-1779; www.wingspan.

T

org), is southern Arizona’s lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender community center.

OUR

Mail At press time, domestic postage rates were 32¢ for a postcard and 45¢ for a letter.

Y

For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs $1.05¢ (85¢ to Canada or Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.

usps.com.

If you aren’t sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to LANNING

you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where P

you expect to be. (Call 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver’s license, passport, or the like). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month; office hours vary, but all are open Monday to Friday and some are also open on Saturday.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don’t know your zip

code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Medical Requirements Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering

from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. Also see “Health,” above.

Mobile Phones Just because your cellphone works at home doesn’t mean it’ll work

everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to the fragmented cellphone system in the United States). If you live in the U.S., it’s a good bet that your phone will work in Arizona’s major cities, but take a look at your wireless company’s coverage map on its website before heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. (To see where GSM

phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage.) If you’re visiting from another country, be sure to find out about international calling rates and roaming charges before using your phone in the United States. You could ring up a huge phone bill with just a few calls.

550

Options for staying connected in the U.S. include renting a mobile phone from a com-

pany such as Roberts Rent-A-Phone ( 800/964-2468; www.roberts-rent-a-phone.com).

However, you can also buy an inexpensive phone and prepaid minutes from such compa-

nies as TracFone (www.tracfone.com). These phones are readily available in such stores as Wal-Mart and Target and usually cost less than $20. Prepaid minutes might cost $20 for 60

minutes, though double-minute plans can lower this cost. Another alternative if you are traveling with your laptop computer or have a smartphone is to install Skype (www.skype.

12

com), a VoIP (voice over Internet protocol) program/app that allows you to use your comP

puter or smart phone as an Internet-based telephone. Doing this allows you to call other LANNING

Skype users at no charge.

If you’re heading down into the Grand Canyon and want to rent a satellite phone, contact World Communications Center ( 800/211-2575 or 480/857-6656; www.wcclp.com).

Y

Money & Costs Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency con-OUR

versions quoted below were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/

T

converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

RIP

TO

THE VALUE OF THE U.S. DOLLAR VS. OTHER POPULAR

A

CURRENCIES

RIZONA

US$

Aus$

Can$

Euro (€)

NZ$

UK£

1

0.96

0.99

0.76

1.23

0.63

Money & Costs

What will a vacation in Arizona cost? That depends on your comfort needs. If you drive an RV or carry a tent, you can get by very inexpensively and find a place to stay almost anywhere in the state. If you don’t mind staying in motels that date from the 1960s and can sleep just fine on a sagging mattress, you can stay for less money in Arizona than almost any place else in the U.S. (under $40 a night for a double in some places). On the other hand, you can easily spend several hundred dollars a day on a room at one of the state’s world-class resorts. Expect to pay around $200 per day for a room at a midlevel WHAT THINGS COST IN ARIZONA

$US

Taxi from the airport to downtown Scottsdale

21.00–36.00

Double room, moderate

150.00–200.00

Double room, inexpensive

65.00–150.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate

25.00–35.00

Bottle of beer

2.50–3.50

Cup of coffee

1.50–2.00

1 gallon/1 liter of premium gas

3.90/1.03

Admission to most museums

5.00–15.00

Admission to Grand Canyon National Park

25.00

551

resort in Phoenix or Tucson. Rooms in Sedona and at the Grand Canyon are also at a premium, so plan on spending between $150 and $200 for a midlevel room. If you’re looking to stay in clean, modern motels at interstate highway off-ramps, expect to pay $45 to $65

a night for a double room in most places (a little bit more in Phoenix and Tucson).

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s

12 convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Newspapers & Magazines The

Arizona Republic is Arizona’s largest daily newspa-

per and can be found throughout central and northern Arizona. In the southern part of the state, you are more likely to find Tucson’s Arizona Daily Star, a morning daily. Arizona Highways is a beautiful and informative photo-driven monthly magazine published by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Both Phoenix and Tucson have a number of glossy

monthly lifestyle magazines that are worth picking up for their monthly events listings.

Packing Arizona is hot, hot, hot. Everyone knows that, but did you also know that from the fall through the spring temperatures at higher elevations (for instance, the Grand Canyon) can fall well below freezing? Sure, you need to bring shorts and sandals for a spring-Newspapers & Magazines break vacation in Phoenix or Tucson, but if you have any plans to visit the Grand Canyon, Flagstaff, or just about any place else in northern Arizona from October to April, you’d better bring some warm clothes, too. In fact, while this state has a reputation for its sunny weather, December and January can even bring chilly temperatures to Phoenix and Tucson. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for RIZONA

your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

A

Passports Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport.

TO

All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, RIP

Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present T

a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other OUR

documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; see www.

Y

getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Australia Australian Passport Information Service ( 131-232; www.passports.

gov.au).

LANNINGP

Canada Passport Office, Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada, Gatineau,

QC K1A 1L2 ( 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland Passport Office Dublin, Frederick Buildings, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2

( 353 1/671-1633 or 1890/426-88; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, Level 3, 109 Feath-

erston St., Wellington 6011 ( 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/463-9360; www.

passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel

agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN ( 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center ( 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Petrol Please see “By Car” under “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Police In most places in Arizona, phone 911 for emergencies. A few small towns

have not adopted this emergency phone number, so if 911 doesn’t work, dial 0 (zero) for the operator and state your reason for calling.

552

Safety Over the past few years, problems along Arizona’s border with Mexico have

repeatedly garnered national media attention. If you believed everything you heard, you probably now assume that Arizona is a war zone as dangerous as Afghanistan or Iraq. Well, it’s not. Arizona is as safe for travelers as any other state. However, you can expect to encounter U.S. Border Patrol checkpoints in the southern part of the state, and, if driving after dark close to the border, you might even encounter illegal immigrants walking along the road. Do not stop for them.

12

Far more important to remember is that when driving long distances, always carry

P

plenty of drinking water and, if you’re heading off onto dirt roads, extra water for your car’s LANNING

radiator as well. When hiking or walking in the desert, keep an eye out for rattlesnakes; these poisonous snakes are not normally aggressive unless provoked, so give them a wide berth. Also be sure to give cactus a wide berth, especially cholla cactus, which has particularly painful spines that often break off in your skin and must be removed with tweezers.

YOUR

Don’t leave valuables, especially purses, wallets, or cameras, in view in your car when going for a hike or wandering off to take pictures at a scenic overlook in Canyon de Chelly T

National Monument, or anywhere for that matter.

RIP

Senior Travel With its abundant sunshine and lack of cold, icy, snowy winters, Arizona TO

has long been a favorite vacation and retirement destination with seniors. The state goes A

out of its way to accommodate senior travelers with discounts on accommodations and

RIZONA

attractions, discounted “early-bird” dinners at many restaurants, and economical places to park RVs. Seniors should be sure to get an America the Beautiful—National Parks and

Federal Recreational Lands Pass—Senior Pass. Issued by the U.S. National Park Service, these passes give seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service—national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, Taxes

and national wildlife refuges—for a one-time processing fee of $10. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, see the “Disabled Travelers” section earlier.

Smoking With the exception of buildings on tribal lands and at tobacco retailers,

smoking is prohibited in public indoor spaces throughout Arizona. This regulation applies to restaurants and bars, although such establishments can have outdoor patios where

smoking is permitted. Consequently, you may not find the fresh desert air you were

expecting if you ask for an outdoor table at a restaurant.

Student Travel Student travel in Arizona usually means one of two things: spring

break at Lake Havasu or a summer visit to the Grand Canyon. In either case, you might want to check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.aboutistc.

org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. The card is valid for 1 year.

You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel ( 800/781-4040 in North America, 134-782 in Australia, 0871/230-0040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you’re no longer a student but are still 25 or under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS ( 800/667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for Canadian residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT ( 01/602-1906; www.usit.

ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Taxes The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the

national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, 553

including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

In Arizona, the state, counties, and communities can all levy a sales tax (officially called a transaction privilege tax). In most places, you’ll pay 9% or more. On car rentals at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport, expect to pay 50% or more in taxes and surcharges; at Tucson 12 Airport, you’ll pay around 30%. You can sometimes save 10% or so on surcharges if you rent outside the airports, but sometimes the rental rates are higher outside of the airport, which negates the tax savings. Hotel room taxes range from around 9% to 17%. There is no sales tax at museum and other nonprofit gift shops.

Telephones Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling

cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept Ameri-Telephones can Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 35¢ or 50¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the

area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

RIZONA

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes A

700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be expensive—

TO

charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can

run $15 or more.

RIP T For

reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number

0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should spec-OUR

ify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call Y

is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For

directory assistance (“Information”), dial 411 for local numbers and national

numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

LANNINGP

Time The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it’s 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it’s 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in

March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Arizona is in the Mountain Time zone, but it does not observe daylight saving time.

From the second Sunday in March until the first Sunday in November, there is no time difference between Arizona and California and other states on the West Coast. There is an exception, though—the Navajo Reservation observes daylight saving time. (However, the Hopi Reservation does not.)

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app

for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

554

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our conve-

12

nient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and

P

click on the Travel Tools icon.

LANNING

Toilets You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in most U.S. cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the Y

best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in heavily visited areas may reserve their OUR

restrooms for patrons.

VAT See “Taxes,” above.

TRIP

Visas The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens

of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90

TO

days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, A

Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechten-RIZONA

stein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway,

Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. ( Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a V

visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch isas

lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recom-

mends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is one $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP

country must be a machine-readable or e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing bio-graphical information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn’t have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a

digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6

months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa. For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy

Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 ( 02/6214-5600), or by checking the

U.S. Diplomatic Mission’s website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

555

British

subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy

Visa Information Line ( 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.23 per minute, or

866/382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 that is payable by credit card only) or by visiting the “Visas” section of the U.S. Embassy London’s website at http://

london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

12 Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 ( 1580-47-8472 from within the Republic of Ireland at

€2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the

U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington ( 644/462-

ebsites

6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Visitor Information For statewide travel information, contact the Arizona Office of Tourism ( 866/275-5816; www.arizonaguide.com). Nearly every city and town in Arizona Airline W has a tourism office or a chamber of commerce that can also provide information. See the individual chapters for details on how to contact these sources. For some suggested driving tours along Arizona’s scenic roads, also check out the Arizona Office of Tourism’s site, www.arizonascenicroads.com.

If you want to load up your smart phone with Arizona-specific apps, I recommend the

RIZONA

following. For news and entertainment/event information go to www.azcentral.com (the A

website for the Arizona Republic, Phoenix’s daily newspaper). For making restaurant reser-TO

vations, the OpenTable app, available from the iTunes app store, is invaluable.

RIP

Water Tap water throughout Arizona is safe to drink, but the water in the Phoenix and T

Tucson areas tends to have an unpleasant flavor due to the fact that it travels long distances in open canals before being treated.

OUR Y Wi-Fi See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier in this section.

AIRLINE WEBSITES

LANNING

MAJOR AIRLINES

BUDGET AIRLINES

P

Aeromexico

AirTran Airways

www.aeromexico.com

www.airtran.com

Air Canada

Frontier Airlines

www.aircanada.com

www.frontierairlines.com

Alaska Airlines

Great Lakes Airlines

www.alaskaair.com

www.greatlakesav.com

American Airlines

JetBlue Airways

www.aa.com

www.jetblue.com

British Airways

Southwest Airlines

www.britishairways.com

www.southwest.com

Delta Air Lines

Sun Country Airlines

www.delta.com

www.suncountry.com

Hawaiian Airlines

WestJet

www.hawaiianair.com

www.westjet.com

United Airlines

www.united.com

US Airways

www.usairways.com

556

Index

INDEX

A

Arizona Doll & Toy Museum

Ashley Furniture Homestore

The Abyss, 254

(Phoenix), 112

Pavilion (Phoenix), 145

Academic trips, 537

Arizona Exposition & State Fair

Astronomy tours, Sedona, 218

Accommodations, 536–537

(Phoenix), 37

ASU Karsten Golf Course

Actors Theatre (Phoenix), 146

Arizona Folklore Preserve, 481

(Tempe), 101

Adventure trips, 538

Arizona Food Tours (Scottsdale), Audrey Head Frame Park, 198

Agua Fria National Monument,

99–100

August Doins Rodeo/World’s

191

Arizona Historical Society

Oldest Continuous Rodeo

Airport Mesa, 212, 213

Downtown Museum

(Payson), 37

Airport Mesa Trail, 220

(Tucson), 388, 392

Auto racing, Phoenix, 154

Air tours

Arizona Historical Society

Az-Tex Hat Company

Glen Canyon Dam, 351–352

Museum at Papago Park

(Scottsdale), 142

Grand Canyon, 256

(Phoenix), 90

Grand Canyon West, 299–300

Arizona Historical Society Pioneer B

Lake Havasu, 520

Museum (Flagstaff), 280

Bacavi, 319

Phoenix area, 99

Arizona Historical Society

Backpacking, 542–543

Sedona, 218

Sanguinetti House Museum

Grand Canyon, 260–261

Air travel, 534, 536

(Yuma), 527

Rainbow Bridge, 352–353

Alcantara Vineyards (Verde

Arizona History Museum

Ballet Arizona (Phoenix), 146

Valley), 205–206

(Tucson), 397

Barrel cactus, 40

Alvadora Spa at Royal Palms

Arizona Mills (Tempe), 142

Barrett-Jackson Collector Car

(Scottsdale), 111

Arizona Museum for Youth

Auction (Scottsdale), 35

America the Beautiful passes,

(Mesa), 112–113

Barringer Meteorite Crater, 315

214, 538, 547

Arizona Museum of Natural

Baseball, Phoenix, 154–155

Amerind Foundation Museum

History (Mesa), 93–94

Basketball, Phoenix, 155

(Dragoon), 500

Arizona Opera (Phoenix and

Bearizona (Williams), 294

Amitabha Stupa Park (Sedona),

Tucson), 145–146, 438–439

Beatty’s Guest Ranch and

216

Arizona Renaissance Festival

Orchard (Hereford), 485

“A Mountain” (Sentinel Peak;

(Apache Junction), 35

Bell Rock, 211, 212

Tucson), 403

Arizona Science Center

Bell Rock/Courthouse Butte

Angel’s Window Overlook, 272

(Phoenix), 87

Loop Trail, 9

Antelope Canyon/Lake Powell

Arizona Snowbowl, 285–286

Bell Rock Pathway, 219

Navajo Tribal Park, 4,

Arizona Soaring (Maricopa), 98

Benson, 480–481

353–354

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Bentley Gallery (Scottsdale), 85

Antelope House, 336

(Tucson), 9, 402

Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeological

Antelope House Overlook, 336

Arizona State Museum (Tucson),

Park, 14, 177

Apache Cultural Center &

398

Betatakin, 312, 341, 342

Museum (Fort Apache), 367

Arizona State University Art

Betty’s Kitchen Watchable

Apache Lake, 176

Museum (Phoenix), 90–91

Wildlife Area, 529

Apache Station Wildlife Viewing Arizona Strip, 275

Big Nose Kate’s (Tombstone),

Area, 502

Arizona Stronghold Winery

489

Apache Trail, 10–11, 175–177

(Cottonwood), 205

Big Springs Environmental

Aravaipa Canyon Preserve, 505

Arizona Theatre Company

Study Area, 368

Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness,

(Tucson and Phoenix), 146,

Biking and mountain biking,

505

439

538–539

The Arboretum at Flagstaff, 280

Arizona West Galleries

Bisbee, 494

Archaeological sites and ruins,

(Scottsdale), 83

Grand Canyon, 257

14–15

Arizona Wing of the

Granite Mountain Wilderness,

Arcosanti, 191

Commemorative Air Force

189–190

Arivaca Cienega, 468

(Mesa), 94

Phoenix area, 100–101

Arizona Biltmore (Phoenix), 86

Art galleries

Pinetop-Lakeside area, 368

Arizona Biltmore Golf Club

Bisbee, 494

Sedona, 5, 220

(Phoenix), 101

Flagstaff, 289

Sunrise Park Resort, 370

Arizona Biltmore Spa (Phoenix),

Jerome, 199

Tucson, 408–409

111

Patagonia, 476

Bill Williams River National

Arizona Capitol Museum

Phoenix area, 136–138

Wildlife Refuge, 519

(Phoenix), 87

Prescott, 193–194

Biltmore Fashion Park (Phoenix),

Arizona Cardinals, 155

Sedona, 227, 228

140

Arizona Cowboy College

Tubac, 469–470

Biosphere 2 (Oracle), 407

(Scottsdale), 544

Tucson, 432–433

Bird Cage Theatre (Tombstone),

Arizona Diamondbacks

Art in the Open Air (Tucson), 399

488–489

(Phoenix), 154

ASARCO Mineral Discovery

Center (near Tucson), 408

557

Bird-watching, 539

Buenos Aires National Wildlife

Car travel, 534, 535–536

Bill Williams River National

Refuge, 467–468

Casa Grande Ruins National

Wildlife Refuge, 519

Bullhead City, 514–517

Monument (Coolidge),

Grand Canyon, 250

Burton Barr Library (Phoenix),

14, 96–97

Hassayampa River Preserve, 184

87–88

Casa Malpais Archaeological

Havasu National Wildlife

Bus travel, 535, 536

Park and Museum

INDEX

Refuge, 516

Butler Canyon Trail, 371

(Springerville), 374

southern Arizona, 5, 475–476,

Butterfly Lodge Museum (near

Casinos

482, 484, 485, 505

Greer), 371

Lake Havasu, 523

Cochise County, 502–503

Laughlin, NV, 517

Tucson, 409–410

C

Phoenix area, 153

Willow Lake Park, 191

Cacti, 39–40

Tucson area, 444

Yuma area, 528–529

Caduceus Cellars (Jerome), 200

Yuma, 530

Bisbee, 8, 491–497

Calendar of events, 34–37

Castle Dome City Mines

Bisbee 1000, 37

California condors, 42, 250

Museum, 528

Bisbee Bicycle Brothel, 494

Callaghan Vineyards (near

Castles-n-Coasters (Phoenix), 113

Bisbee Mining & Historical

Elgin), 477

Catalina Highway, 400

Museum, 493

Camelback Corridor and Biltmore Catalina State Park, 412

Bischoff’s at the Park

District (Phoenix), 70

Cathedral Rock, 211, 212, 215

(Scottsdale), 82, 141

accommodations, 166–169

Cathedral Rock Trail, 219

Bishop Gallery of Art &

exploring, 86

Cathedral Wash Trail, 356

Antiques (Scottsdale), 83

restaurants, 124–127

Cattail Cove State Park, 521

Bitter Creek Winery (Jerome),

Camelback Golf Club, 102

Cave Creek, 78

200

Camelback Mountain, 7, 106

Cave Creek Canyon, 502

Black Mountain Trail, 108

Camel Farm (Yuma), 527

Cave Creek Museum, 78

Blue Mesa, 328

Cameron Trading Post, 264, 326

Cave Creek Regional Park, 108

Boating (boat rentals). See also

Campgrounds

Celebrity Theatre (Phoenix), 144

Canoeing; Houseboating;

Canyon de Chelly, 341

Cellphones, 550–551

Kayaking

Cochise County, 505

Center for Creative

Glen Canyon Dam National

eastern Arizona, 366, 369, 373,

Photography (Tucson), 398

Recreation Area, 351

377

Center for Meteorite Studies

Lake Havasu, 521

Grand Canyon, 270, 278

(Phoenix), 93

Lake Powell, 354

Lake Havasu City area, 524–525

Center for the Arts Proscenium

Boat tours and cruises

Lake Mohave and Lake Mead,

Theatre (Tucson), 438

Bullhead City/Laughlin, 515–516

514

Central and downtown Phoenix.

Glen Canyon Dam National

Lake Powell area, 359

See Downtown and central

Recreation Area, 351–352

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal

Phoenix

Lake Havasu, 519–520

Park, 347–348

Central Arizona, 45, 179–236

Lake Mead, 511

Sedona area, 236

The Centre for Well Being

Rainbow Bridge National

Sierra Vista area, 487

(Scottsdale), 111

Monument, 352

Williams, 296–297

Ceramics Research Center

Yuma, 528

Canelo Hills Vineyard & Winery

(Phoenix), 91

Bonelli House (Kingman), 303

(near Elgin), 477

Challenger Space Center

Bonito Campground, 283

Canoeing, 539

(Phoenix), 89–90

Books, recommended, 28–30

Lake Havasu, 521

Chandler, 71

Boot Hill Graveyard

Topock Gorge, 520

Chapel of the Holy Cross

(Tombstone), 488

Watson Lake Park, 190

(Sedona), 211

The Borgata of Scottsdale, 140

Yuma area, 529

Chevelon Canyon, 314

The Boulders (Carefree), 102

Canyon de Chelly National

Children’s Museum of Phoenix,

Bouse Fisherman, 525

Monument, 11, 15, 311,

113

Boyce Thompson Arboretum

334–341

Children’s Museum Tucson, 415

(Superior), 95

Canyon del Muerto, 334, 335,

Chiricahua National Monument,

Boynton Canyon, 212, 213, 219

337–339

500–501, 505

Boynton Canyon Trail, 213

Canyon Lake, 175

Chloride, 303

Breakers Water Park (Marana),

Canyon X, 353

Cholla cactus, 40, 401, 553

415

Cape Royal, 272

Cinco de Mayo, 36

Bright Angel Campground, 260

Capitol Butte, 213

Clarkdale, 201

Bright Angel Lodge, 252

Carefree and Cave Creek, 71

Cliff Castle Casino, 202

Bright Angel Point, 272

accommodations, 164–166

Cliff dwellings, 22

Bright Angel Trail, 253,

exploring, 78–86

Montezuma Castle National

257–259

restaurants, 122–124

Monument, 203

Broadway Across America-

Carl Hayden Visitor Center

Navajo National Monument,

Arizona (Phoenix), 146

(near Page), 350

341–342

Bronze Horse Fountain

Carlson Creek Vineyard

Palatki Heritage Site (near

(Scottsdale), 85

(Willcox), 499

Sedona), 213–214

Buckskin Mountain State Park,

Carnegie Library (Tucson), 397

Tonto National Monument, 176

519

Carr Canyon, 484

Walnut Canyon National

Monument, 284

558

Climate, 33–34

Desert Bar (Nellie E Saloon),

Families with children, 548

Coal Mine Canyon, 324

519

best experiences, 8–9

Cochise County, 497–506

Desert Botanical Garden

Faust Gallery (Scottsdale), 83,

Cochise Cowboy Poetry &

(Phoenix), 4–5, 91–92, 145

141

INDEX

Music Gathering (Sierra

Desert Caballeros Western

Felicity, 532

Vista), 35

Museum (Wickenburg), 183

Festival of Lights (Sedona), 37,

Cochise Lakes, 502

Desert View Campground, 270

210

Cochise Stronghold, 500

Desert View Drive (Grand

Fighter Combat International

COFCO Chinese Cultural Center

Canyon), 247–248

(Mesa), 98

(Phoenix), 131

Desert View Watchtower, 248

Films, 30–31

Coffee Pot Rock, 213

Detours, 97, 549

Finger Rock Trail, 412

Collared peccary, 42

Diamondback Bridge (Tucson),

First Mesa, 318

Colorado River Museum

388

Fish House (Tucson), 395

(Bullhead City), 515

Dolly steamboat (Canyon Lake),

Fishing, 539, 542

Colossal Cave Mountain Park,

175

between Eagar and Greer, 375

405–407

The Doors (Scottsdale), 86

Greer, 371–372

Comerica Theatre (Phoenix),

Dos Cabezas WineWorks

Lake Havasu, 521

144

(Sonoita), 477

Lake Mead National Recreation

Condors, 250

Douglas, 501–502, 504

Area, 512

Constellation Trails, 190–191

Dove Valley Ranch Golf Club

Lake Powell, 355

Copper Queen Library (Bisbee),

(Cave Creek), 102

Lees Ferry, 274

492–493

Downtown and central Phoenix,

Luna Lake, 377

Corbett House (Tucson), 394

69–70

Pinetop-Lakeside area, 368

Coronado National Memorial,

accommodations, 166–169

Flagstaff, 238, 278–292

481

exploring, 87–89

accommodations, 290–292

Coronado Trail, 375–377

restaurants, 127–130

entertainment and nightlife,

Coronado Trail Scenic Byway, 11

Drinking laws, 547–548

289–290

Coronado Vineyards (near

Dripping Springs, 259

exploring, 280–285

Willcox), 499

Dude ranches, 8

getting around, 279

Cosanti (Scottsdale), 74–75

getting there, 278–279

Cottonwood, 201, 205

E

outdoor activities, 285–286

Courthouse Butte, 211

Eagar, 373–375

restaurants, 286–289

Courthouse Plaza (Prescott),

Eagle Head Rock, 212

shopping, 289

187

Eastern Arizona College’s

visitor information, 279

Cowboy Holding a Lasso sign

Discovery Park Campus

The Flattops, 328

(Scottsdale), 83

(near Safford), 506

Flightseeing (air tours)

Cowboy poetry festivals, 13,

Eastern Arizona highlands, 48,

Glen Canyon Dam, 351–352

182

361–377

Grand Canyon, 256

Cowboy steakhouses

East Fork Trail, 371

Grand Canyon West, 299–300

Phoenix area, 133–134

Echo Canyon Recreation Area,

Lake Havasu, 520

Tucson, 430

106–107

Phoenix area, 99

Coyote Buttes, 274–275

Eforea spa at Hilton (Sedona),

Sedona, 218

Coyotes, 41

217

Float trips, from Glen Canyon

CrackerJax Family Fun & Sports

Elden Pueblo, 285

Dam to Lees Ferry, 355

Park (Scottsdale), 113

Electricity, 548

Food and drink, 31–33

Crescent Moon Picnic Site, 215

El Pedregal at the Boulders

Arizona Food Tours

Crystal Palace Saloon

(Scottsdale), 140, 145

(Scottsdale), 99–100

(Tombstone), 489

El Presidio Park/Plaza de las

best experiences, 6–7

Armas (Tucson), 395

Food and wine trips, 545

D

El Tiradito (Tucson), 396, 406

Football

Dateland Date Gardens, 532

El Tovar Hotel, 252

Phoenix, 155

Dead Horse Ranch State Park,

Embassies and consulates, 548

Tucson, 444

202

Emergencies, 548

Forest Road (F.R.) 300, 365

De Anza Trail, 468

English Village, 518

Fort Bowie National Historic

Deer Valley Rock Art Center

Environmental Operations Park,

Site, 501

(Phoenix), 90

484

Fort Bowie Vineyards, 499

De Grazia Gallery in the Sun

Escalante Butte, 260

Fort Huachuca Museum (Sierra

(Tucson), 400

Escudilla Mountain, 377

Vista), 481–482

Dekaa Kiva Viewpoint, 335–336

Essence of Tranquility (near

Fort Lowell Museum (Tucson),

Del E. Webb Center for the

Safford), 506

401–402

Performing Arts

Etherton Gallery (Tucson), 397

Fort Verde State Historic Park,

(Wickenburg), 184

Explore Navajo Interactive

202–203

Delgadillo’s Snow Cap

Museum (Tuba City), 323

Fort Whipple Museum

(Seligman), 304

(Prescott), 188

DeMeester Outdoor

Fossil Creek, 365

F

Performance Center

Fossil Creek Road, 365

Face Rock Overlook, 338

(Tucson), 438

Fairbank, 483

559

Fountain Hills fountain (near

Goulding’s Museum & Trading

H

Scottsdale), 112

Post, 346

Hall of Flame Firefighting

Four Corners Monument, 348

Grady Gammage Auditorium

Museum (Phoenix), 92

Four Corners region, 48,

(Tempe), 144

Hannagan Meadows, 377

309–359

Grand Canyon, 3, 8, 45, 48,

Hano, 318

best travel experiences in, 312

238–307

Harvey, Fred, 338

INDEX

Fox Theatre (Tucson), 438

East Rim, 275

The Harvey Girls, 313, 338

Fred Lawrence Whipple

North Rim, 271–278

Hassayampa River Preserve

Observatory (Mount

South Rim, 239–270

(near Wickenburg),

Hopkins), 470

accommodations, 266–270

183–184

Fredonia-Vermilion Cliffs Scenic

backpacking, 260–261

Havasu Canyon & Grand

Road, 11

banks and ATMs, 245

Canyon West, 297–302

Friends of Marty Robbins

climate, 245–246

Havasu National Wildlife

Museum (Willcox), 499

exploring, 247–260

Refuge, 516

Frontier Town (Cave Creek), 78

fees, 246

Havasupai Indian Reservation,

festivals, 246

297

G

getting around, 244–245

Hawley Lake, 368

Gadsden-Pacific Division Toy

getting there, 242–244

Health concerns, 549

Train Operating Museum

hospitals and clinics, 246

Heard Museum (Phoenix), 88

(Tucson), 415

interpretive programs,

Heard Museum Gift Shop

Ganado, 330, 331

256–257

(Phoenix), 141

Garcia Little Red Schoolhouse

lunch options, 247

Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair

(Wickenburg), 182–183

organized tours, 255–257

& Market (Phoenix), 35–36

Gaslight Theatre (Tucson), 439

orientation, 244

Heard Museum North

Gates Pass (Tucson), 8, 404

outdoor activities, 257–264

Scottsdale, 88

Gays and lesbians, 550

parking, 246

Heart of Rocks Trail, 10

Phoenix area, 153

police, 246

Helldorado Days, 37

Tucson, 443–444

post office, 246

Helldorado Town (Tombstone),

Ghost towns, 5

rafting the Colorado River,

488

Giant Logs Trail, 328

262–264

Herberger Theater Center

Gila Box Riparian National

restaurants, 264–266

(Phoenix), 145, 146

Conservation Area, 506

road conditions, 246

Heritage and Science Park

Gila monsters, 42

safety, 246

(Phoenix), 88–89

Gilbert Ortega Gallery &

trail rides by mule and horse,

Hermit Camp, 254

Museum (Scottsdale), 83,

261–262

Hermit Rapids, 253–254

141

visitor information, 244

Hermit Road, 252–254

Glen Canyon Dam, 242

Grand Canyon Caverns, 301,

Hermit’s Rest, 254

Glen Canyon Dam National

305

Hermit Trail, 254, 257–259

Recreation Area, 348,

Grand Canyon Deer Farm

Hidden Histories (Scottsdale),

350–352

(Williams), 294

82

Glendale, 71

Grand Canyon Music Festival,

Hieroglyphic Canyon, 108

Glider rides, Phoenix area, 98

37, 246

Highline Trail, 365

Globe, 176–177

Grand Canyon-Parashant

Hiking, 542–543. See also

Gold Canyon Golf Resort, 102

National Monument, 275

specific parks and trails

Golden Door Spa (Carefree),

Grand Canyon Railway,

best, 9–10

111

8, 255–256, 292, 293

Canyon de Chelly, 340

Goldfield Ghost Town, 8, 96,

Grand Canyon Trip Planner, 261

Chiricahua National Monument,

175

Grand Canyon Village, 250–252

501

Goldfield’s Historic Museum, 96

Grand Canyon West, 299–301

Coronado Trail, 377

Gold King Mine, 199

Grand Falls, 282

eastern Arizona, 365, 370–371,

Gold Rush Days (Wickenburg),

Grandview Point, 250, 260

375–377

182

Grandview Trail, 250, 257, 258,

Flagstaff, 286

Golf, 542

260

Grand Canyon, 3, 257–260

Bisbee, 493

Granite Creek Vineyards

Granite Mountain Wilderness,

Lake Havasu City, 521–522

(Chino Valley), 194

189–190

Lake Powell, 356–357

Granite Dells, 5, 190, 191

Havasu Canyon, 3, 298–299

Laughlin/Bullhead City, 516

Granite Mountain Wilderness,

Lake Powell area, 356

Parker, 522

189

Navajo National Monument,

Phoenix area, 101–105, 155

Grasshopper Point, 216

342

Pinetop-Lakeside, 368

Greenway Trail, 257, 258

Phoenix area, 105–109

Prescott, 191

Greer, 369–373

Pinetop-Lakeside, 368

Sedona, 220

Greyhound, 535, 536

Rainbow Bridge, 352–353

tours, 546

Greyhound racing, 444

S.A.R.A. Park, 522

Tubac, 468–469

Guest ranches, 13

Sedona area, 219–220, 227

Tucson, 410–411, 444

Guided and package tours, 546

between Tubac with

Wickenburg, 184

Guild Indian Fair and Market

Tumacácori, 468

Yuma, 529

(Phoenix), 88

560

Tucson, 411–413

I

Kayaking, 539

Watson Lake area, 190

Imperial National Wildlife

Lake Havasu, 521

Historic Heritage Square/

Refuge, 528, 529

Lake Mohave, 511–512

Heritage and Science Park

Independence Day, 36

Lake Powell, 354

INDEX

(Phoenix), 88–89

Indiana, Robert, Love

Topock Gorge, 520

Historic Route 66 Museum, 305,

(Scottsdale), 81

Watson Lake Park, 190

306

Indian Bend Wash greenbelt

Kayenta-Monument Valley

Historic Yuma Theatre, 530

(Scottsdale), 101

Scenic Road (U.S. 163), 11

History of Arizona, 18–28

Indian Garden, 259, 260

Keams Canyon, 321

Hockey, Phoenix, 155

Indian Gardens Oak Creek

Keeling-Schaefer Vineyards

Holbrook, 329–330

Market, 216

Tasting Room (Willcox), 499

Holidays, 34

Insurance, 549

Keepers of the Wild Nature

Holy Trinity Monastery, 482

International Wildlife Museum

Park (Valentine), 306

Homolovi Ruins State Park, 313,

(Tucson), 402–403

Keet Seel, 15, 22, 312, 341, 342

314

Internet and Wi-Fi, 550

Kerr Cultural Center

Homolovi State Park, 313

Itineraries, suggested, 49–63

(Scottsdale), 144

Hon-Dah Casino, 367

Kief-Joshua Vineyards (near

Hoover Dam, 511

J

Elgin), 477

Hopi Cultural Center Museum

Jack Knife (Scottsdale), 84

Kierland Commons (Scottsdale),

(Second Mesa), 320

Jacks Canyon, 314

140

Hopi Festival of Arts and

Jacques Marsh, 368

Kierland Golf Club (Scottsdale),

Culture (Flagstaff), 36

Jail Tree (Wickenburg), 183

103

Hopi House Gift Store and Art

Jasper Forest Overlook, 328

Kingman, 302–307

Gallery, 252

Javelina Leap Vineyard &

Kinishba Ruins, 367

Hopi people and culture,

Winery (Page Springs), 217

Kitt Peak National Observatory,

309, 310

Jeep and Hummer tours

471

dances and ceremonies,

Bisbee, 493

Knox Artifacts Gallery

319–320

Canyon X, 353

(Scottsdale), 84

Hopi Point, 253

Grand Canyon, 257

Kofa National Wildlife Refuge,

Hopi Reservation, 316–326

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal

525–526

Horseback riding, 543–544

Park, 4

Kolb Studio, 251, 252

Chiricahua Mountains, 500

Phoenix area, 99

Kykotsmovi (Lower Oraibi or

Dead Horse Ranch State Park,

Sedona, 218

New Oraibi), 318–319

202

Tombstone, 490

eastern Arizona, 365, 367, 371

Tucson, 408

L

Goldfield, 96

Wickenburg, 184

La Casa Cordova (Tucson), 394

Grand Canyon, 261–262, 273

Jerome, 180, 197–201

La Fiesta de los Vaqueros

Grand Canyon West, 300

Jerome Historical Society’s Mine

(Tucson), 35

Havasu Canyon, 299

Museum, 198

Lake Havasu, 8, 517–525

Oatman, 307

Jerome State Historic Park, 198

Lake Havasu City, 517–519

Phoenix area, 109

Jerome Winery, 200

Lake Havasu Museum of

Pinetop-Lakeside, 367–368

Jewish Community Center

History, 519

Prescott National Forest, 191

Sculpture Garden (Tucson),

Lake Havasu State Park, 521

Sedona, 218, 220

399

Lake Mead National Recreation

Tucson, 413

John C. Hill Antique Indian Art

Area, 510–514

Horse racing, 155, 444

(Scottsdale), 141

Lake Mohave, 510–514

Horseshoe Bend, 356

John Wesley Powell Memorial

Lake Powell, 309, 348–354

Horseshoe Falls (Scottsdale), 85

Museum (Page), 350

La Placita Village (Tucson), 396

Horseshoe Mesa, 250, 260

Joya Spa (Paradise Valley), 111

La Posada (Winslow), 313

Hot-air ballooning, 544

Juan Bautista de Anza National

Las Cienegas National

Lake Havasu, 520

Historic Trail, 468

Conservation Area, 475

Phoenix area, 98–99

Julius Kruttschnidt House

Las Noches de las Luminarias

Sedona, 218–219

(Tucson), 395

(Phoenix), 37

Tucson, 413

Junction Overlook, 337

The Last Camp of Hi Jolly, 525

Hotel Congress (Tucson), 397

Laughlin (Nevada), 514–517

Hotevilla, 318

K

Ledge Ruin Overlook, 335

Houseboating, 8–9, 544

Kachina dances, 319–320

Lees Ferry, 273–274, 356

Lake Mohave, 513

Kachina Hot Springs Mineral

Legacy Golf Resort (Phoenix),

Lake Powell, 358

Spa (near Safford), 506

103

Hozho, 227

Kachina Point, 329

Legal aid, 550

Hualapai Mountain Park, 306

Kaibab National Forest,

Lenox Crater Trail, 283

Hubbell Trading Post National

camping, 270

LGBT travelers. See Gays and

Historic Site, 331

Kaibab Plateau, 271

lesbians

Huhugam Heritage Center

Kalusa Miniature Airplane

Lightning Ridge Cellars (near

(Chandler), 94

Collection (Prescott), 188

Sonoita), 477

Hummer tours, Phoenix area, 99

Kartchner Caverns State Park,

Hunt’s Tomb (Phoenix), 91

480–481

561

Linda Vista Trail, 412

Money and costs, 551–552

Page, 350

Lipan Point, 248, 260

Montezuma Castle National

Phoenix area, 78, 84, 88

Lisa Sette Gallery (Scottsdale),

Monument, 14, 203

shopping, 141

85

Montezuma Well, 204

suggested itinerary, 58–61

Little Colorado River, 370

The Monument, 254

taking photos on the

Little House Museum (near

Monument Creek Vista, 254

reservations, 335

INDEX

Eagar), 374

Monument Valley, 13

Tumacácori National Historical

Little Painted Desert, 314

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal

Park, 467

Llama hikes, 365

Park, 4, 309, 312–348

Native Trails (Scottsdale), 78

London Bridge, 517, 518

Moran Point, 248

Navajo Bridge, 273

London Bridge Beach (Lake

Mother and Child Rock, 212

Navajo Cultural Center

Havasu), 520–521

Mount Agassiz, 285

(Kayenta), 346

Long Logs Trail, 328

Mount Baldy, 370–371

Navajo Festival of Arts and

Lookout Studio, 252

Mount Graham, 505

Culture (Flagstaff), 37

Los Caballeros Golf Club

Mount Graham International

Navajo Museum, Library &

(Wickenburg), 184

Observatory, 471

Visitor’s Center (Window

Lost Dutchman State Park, 175

Mount Lemmon Recreation

Rock), 331–332

Lowell Observatory (Flagstaff),

Area, 412–413

Navajo Nation, 310

280, 470

Mount Lemmon Sky Center, 470

Canyon de Chelly, 334–341

Luna Lake, 377

Muheim Heritage House

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal

Lyman Lake State Park, 375

Museum (Bisbee), 493

Park, 343–348

Mule rides, 261–262, 299,

Window Rock Ganado areas,

M

543–544

330–333

McCormick-Stillman Railroad

Muleshoe Ranch Cooperative

Navajo National Monument, 15,

Park (Scottsdale), 113

Management Area, 503

341–343

McDowell Sonoran Preserve,

Mummy Cave Overlook, 336

Navajo Nation Fair (Window

107

Murray Springs Clovis Site, 483

Rock), 37

Madera Canyon, 409–410

Museum of Contemporary Art

Navajo Nation Zoo & Botanical

Mail, 550

(Tucson), 388–389

Park (Window Rock), 332

Manson Mesa, 356

Museum of Northern Arizona

Navajo people and culture, 309,

Manzanita Campground, 236

(Flagstaff), 282

310–312, 350

Marble Canyon, 248, 260, 273

Music, 31

Navajo Point, 248

Maricopa Point, 253

Musical Instrument Museum

Navajo Village Heritage Center

Massacre Cave Overlook, 336

(Phoenix), 90

(Page), 349–350

Mather Campground, 270

My Sister’s Closet (Scottsdale),

Nellie E Saloon (Desert Bar),

Mather Point, 251

142

519

Mazatzal Casino (Payson), 363

Mystery Castle (Phoenix), 92

Newspaper Rock, 329

Mesa Amphitheater, 145

Mystic Trail, 219

Newspapers and magazines,

Mesa and the East Valley, 71

552

accommodations, 172–174

N

Nogales, 472–474

exploring, 93–95

National Geographic Visitor

Northern Arizona, 45, 48. See

restaurants, 132–133

Center (Tusayan), 264

also Grand Canyon

Mesa Arts Center, 144

Native Americans, 20–25. See

best travel experiences in, 239

Mesa Contemporary Arts,

also Cliff dwellings; Rock

North Kaibab Trail, 273

94–95

art; Ruins and archaeological North Mountain Park, 107

Mesa Golfland Sunsplash, 110

sites; specific tribes and

North Phoenix

Mescal (Benson), 480

reservations

accommodations, 169–170

Meteor Crater, 3, 315

arts and crafts

exploring, 89–90

Midgely Bridge, 216

Canyon de Chelly, 340

North Rim Drive (Canyon de

Mike O’Callaghan-Pat Tillman

Flagstaff, 289

Chelly), 335–336

Memorial Bridge, 511

Four Corners region, 324–325

North Scottsdale

The Mini-Time Machine–A

Grand Canyon, 248, 252

accommodations, 164–166

Museum of Miniatures

Hopi Reservation, 321

exploring, 78–86

(Tucson), 402

Hubbell Trading Post, 331,

restaurants, 122–124

Mishongnovi, 318

333

Mission San Xavier del Bac

Page, 350

O

(Tucson), 404–405

Phoenix area, 141

Oak Creek Canyon, 215–216.

Mittry Lake Wildlife Area, 529

Prescott, 193

See also Sedona and Oak

Mobile phones, 550–551

Sedona, 227

Creek Canyon

Moenkopi, 319

Tubac, 470

Oak Creek Canyon Vista,

Mogollon Rim, 215, 362–366

Tuba City, 323

215–216

Mogollon Rim Interpretive Trail,

Tucson, 436–437

Oak Creek Vineyards and

368

Flagstaff, 282

Winery (Page Springs), 217

Mohave Museum of History and

food, 32

Oatman, 303, 305, 306–307

Arts (Kingman), 303

Four Corners region, 309

Ocotillo Golf Resort (Chandler),

Mohave Point, 253

Grand Canyon, 248

103

music, 31

O.K. Corral (Tombstone), 488

562

O.K. Street (Bisbee), 493

Peralta Trail, 9, 108

Polacca, 318

Old Adobe Mission (Scottsdale), Petrified Forest National Park,

Pole Knoll trail system, 370

82

326–329

Police, 552

Old Jerome High School, 200

Petroglyphs. See Rock art

Powell Point, 253

INDEX

Old Oraibi, 317, 318

Phantom Ranch, 250, 261

Powerhouse Tourist Information

Old Shungopavi, 318

Phippen Museum (Prescott),

& Visitor Center (Kingman),

Old Territorial Indian Arts

188, 191

303, 305

(Scottsdale), 84, 141

Phippen Museum Western Art

Prescott, 179, 186–197

Old Town Artisans (Tucson), 394

Show & Sale (Prescott), 36

Prescott Center for the Arts

Old Trails Museum (Winslow),

Phoenician Golf Club (Phoenix),

Theatre and Gallery, 195

313

103

Prescott Frontier Days/World’s

Old Tucson Studios, 9, 13, 403

Phoenix area, 45, 65–177. See

Oldest Rodeo, 36

Old West Museum (Holbrook),

also specific neighborhoods

Prescott National Forest, 189

329

accommodations, 156–174

Presidio San Agustin del Tucson,

Open Road Tours, 97, 549

arriving in, 66–67

389

Oraibi, 318–319

best travel experiences, 66

Presidio Santa Cruz de

Organ pipe cactus, 40, 461, 462

doctors and dentists, 73

Terrenate, 483

Organ Pipe Cactus National

emergencies, 73

Prickly pear cactus, 40–41, 412

Monument, 462–465

entertainment and nightlife,

Pueblo Grande Indian Market

Orphan Mine, 253

142–156

(Phoenix), 93

Orpheum Theater

exploring, 74–113

Pueblo Grande Museum and

Flagstaff, 289

finding an address in, 69

Archaeological Park

Phoenix, 144

getting around, 71–73

(Phoenix), 92–93

Ostrich Festival (Chandler), 36

Internet access, 73–74

Pueblo Grande Museum Indian

Outlets at Anthem, 140

for kids, 112–113

Market (Phoenix), 37

Out of Africa Wildlife Park, 204

layout of, 68–69

Puerco Pueblo, 329

Out West (Cave Creek), 142

mail and postage, 74

Overland Gallery of Fine Art

neighborhoods in brief, 69–71

Q

(Scottsdale), 83

newspapers and magazines, 74

QIA Pow Wow (Quartzsite), 525

Owl’s Club Mansion (Tucson), 395

organized tours, 97–100

Quartzsite, 525

outdoor activities, 100–110

Queen Creek Olive Mill, 96

P

pharmacies, 74

Queen Mine Tours (Bisbee), 493

Package tours, 546

restaurants, 113–135

Packing tips, 552

safety, 74

R

Page, 348–350

shopping, 135–142

Rainbow Bridge National

Page Springs (near Sedona), 217

spas, 110–112

Monument, 352–353

Page Springs Cellars, 217

street maps, 69

Rainbow Forest Museum, 328

Painted Desert, 328–329

visitor information, 68

Ramsey Canyon Preserve, 482

Painted Desert Inn, 329

Phoenix Art Museum, 89

Ranch at Fossil Creek, 365–366

Painted Desert Visitor Center,

Phoenix Mountains Park and

Rancho Mañana Golf Club (Cave

329

Recreation Area/Dreamy

Creek), 103

Painted Rock Petroglyph Site,

Draw Recreation Area, 107

Rawhide at Wild Horse Pass

532

Phoenix Suns, 155

(Phoenix), 8, 95

Palace Saloon (Prescott), 13

Phoenix Symphony, 145

Red Mountain, 286

Palatki Heritage Site (near

Phoenix Theatre, 146

Red-rock country, 3

Sedona), 15, 213–214

Phoenix Zoo, 92

Red Rock District, 215, 216,

Papago Park (Phoenix), 106, 109

Picacho Peak State Park, 9, 97,

220, 236

Parada del Sol Parade and

414

Red Rock Healing Arts Center

Rodeo (Scottsdale), 35

Piestewa Peak, 107

(Sedona), 217

Paradise Valley, 71

Pillsbury Wine Company

Red Rock Pass, 214

Parasailing, 520

(Cottonwood), 205

Red Rock Scenic Byway, 11

Paria Canyon, 356

Pima Air & Space Museum

Red Rock State Park, 215

Parker Dam, 519

(Tucson), 405

Regions in brief, 45–49

Passing the Legacy (Scottsdale),

Pima Canyon Trail, 412

Reid Park Zoo (Tucson),

85

Pima County Courthouse

398–399

Passports, 552

(Tucson), 395

Reneé Cushman Art Museum

Patagonia and Sonoita,

Pima Point, 254

(Springerville), 374

474–479

Pine, 364

Responsible travel, 42–43

Patagonia Lake State Park,

Pine-Strawberry Museum, 364

Rex Allen Arizona Cowboy

475–476

Pinetop-Lakeside, 366–369

Museum (Willcox), 498–499

Patagonia-Sonoita Creek

Pinnacle Peak Park, 107

Rim Country Museum (Payson),

Preserve, 475

Planes of Fame Air Museum

363

Payson, 362–366

(Valle), 295

Rim Trail, 257, 258

Peavine Trail, 190

Pleasant Valley, 364

Riordan Mansion State Historic

Pecan Store (Sahuarita), 466

Point Imperial, 272

Park (Flagstaff), 282–283

Penske Racing Museum

Point Imperial/Nankoweap Trail, River Island State Park, 519

(Scottsdale), 75

272

563

River Trading Post (Scottsdale),

Pueblo Grande Museum and

Scottsdale Historical Museum,

84, 141

Archaeological Park

80

River Trail, 356

(Phoenix), 92–93

Scottsdale Museum of

Roadrunner, 41

Sears-Kay Ruins (Cave Creek),

Contemporary Art, 75,

Roaring Springs, 273

79

81–82

Robert Indiana’s Love, 81

Shoofly Village (near Payson),

Scottsdale Waterfront, 139–140

INDEX

Rock art, Bouse Fisherman, 525

363

Sears-Kay Ruins (Cave Creek),

Rock art (petroglyphs and

Tuzigoot National Monument,

79

pictographs)

204

Seasons, 33–34

Antelope House, 336

Verde Valley, 201

Second Mesa, 318

Canyon de Chelly, 338

Walnut Canyon National

Sedona, 179, 180

Grand Canyon, 248, 257

Monument, 284

entertainment and nightlife,

Lake Mead National Recreation

White House Ruin, 337–338

228–229

Area, 513

Wupatki National Monument,

exploring, 210–216

Lyman Lake State Park, 375

284–285

getting around, 210

Painted Desert, 329

Rusty Spur Saloon (Scottsdale),

getting there, 210

Painted Rock Petroglyph Site,

82

organized tours, 217–219

532

outdoor activities, 218–220

Rock Art Ranch (near Winslow),

S

restaurants, 220–226

314

Saba’s Western Stores

shopping, 226–228

Snake Gulch, 275–276

(Scottsdale), 142

special events, 210

V Bar V Heritage Site (near

Sabino Canyon, 412, 413–414

visitor information, 210

Sedona), 212

Sabino Canyon Recreation Area

wine touring, 217

Rock Art Ranch (near Winslow),

(Tucson), 400–401

Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon,

5, 314

Safety, 553

207–236

Rock climbing, Jacks Canyon,

Saguaro cacti, 4, 39, 40, 405,

accommodations, 229–236

314

412

Sedona Arts Center, 212

Rock Springs Café (Prescott),

Saguaro National Park, 4,

Sedona Arts Festival, 37

187

403–404, 411, 413–414

Sedona Heritage Museum, 213

Rodeos, 13, 36, 37

St. Augustine Cathedral

Sedona International Film

Prescott, 187

(Tucson), 397

Festival, 35, 210

Scottsdale, 156

St. Michaels Historical Museum,

Sedona’s New Day Spa, 217

Tucson Rodeo Parade Museum,

330, 332–333

Sedona Trolley, 217–218

405

Salsa Trail, 506

Seligman, 304

Romero House (Tucson), 394

San Bernardino National

Senior travel, 553

Romero Pools, 412

Wildlife Refuge, 503

Seven Falls Trail, 10, 412

Rooster Cogburn Ostrich Ranch

San Francisco Peaks, 278, 286

Sharlot Hall Museum (Prescott),

(Picacho), 97

San Pedro House, 484

188

Roper Lake State Park, 505

San Pedro Riparian National

Shemer Art Center and Museum

Rose Tree Museum (Tombstone),

Conservation Area,

(Phoenix), 86

489

482–484

Sheplers Western Wear (Mesa),

Rosson House (Phoenix), 88–89

Santa Catalina Mountains, 8

142

Route 66, 11, 304–306

Santa Fe train station

Shoofly Village (near Payson),

Williams, 294

(Wickenburg), 182

363

Route 66 Fun Run (Kingman

Santa Maria Spring, 259

Shootouts at the O.K. Corral

area), 36

Scenic drives, best, 10–12

(Tombstone), 13–14

Roy P. Drachman Agua Caliente

Schnebly Hill Road (Sedona),

The SHOPS gainey village

Regional Park, 409

211

(Scottsdale), 141

Ruby Road, 468

Scott, Winfield, 82

Shoshone Point, 258–259

Ruins and archaeological sites.

Scottsdale, 70

Show Low Lake, 368

See also Cliff dwellings;

accommodations, 156–164

Shrine of St. Joseph of the

Rock art

bars, 146–150

Mountains (Yarnell), 185

Agua Fria National Monument,

exploring, 74–78

Shungopavi, 318

191

restaurants, 116–122

Sichomovi, 318

Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeological

walking tour, 80–86

Sidewalk Egg Fry Contest

Park, 177

Scottsdale Arabian Horse Show,

(Oatman), 36

best, 14–15

35

Sierra Vista and San Pedro

Casa Grande Ruins National

Scottsdale Arts Festival, 36

Valley, 479–487

Monument (Coolidge), 96–97

Scottsdale Center for the

Sinagua people, 5, 180, 201,

Casa Malpais Archaeological

Performing Arts, 144, 145

284, 285. See also Cliff

Park and Museum

Scottsdale Civic Center Mall, 80

dwellings; Ruins and

(Springerville), 374

Scottsdale Desert Stages

archaeological sites

Homolovi State Park, 313

Theatre, 146

Tuzigoot National Monument,

Kinishba Ruins, 367

Scottsdale Fashion Square,

204

Montezuma Castle National

140–141

Sipaulovi, 318

Monument, 203

Sipe White Mountain Wildlife

Area, 375

564

Skiing, 285–286, 370, 413,

Steward Observatory Mirror

Tonto Plateau, 253

544–545

Lab (Tucson), 398

Topock Gorge, 520

Ski Valley, 413

Strawberry, 364

Tortilla Flat, 175–176

Sky Island Scenic Byway, 12

Strawberry Schoolhouse,

Tostitos Fiesta Bowl (Glendale),

INDEX

Skywalk (Grand Canyon West),

364–365

35

300

Student travel, 553

Totsonii Ranch, 339–340

Slaughter Ranch (near Douglas),

Sunrise Park Resort, 370

Tournament Players Club (TPC)

503

Sunset Crater Volcano National

of Scottsdale, 104

Slaughter Ranch Museum (near

Monument, 283

Trail Dust Town (Tucson), 415

Douglas), 502

Sweetwater Wetland (Tucson),

Trailer Village RV park (Grand

Slide Rock State Park, 216

409

Canyon Village), 270

Sliding House Overlook, 338

Sycamore Creek, 205

Trailview Overlook, 253

The Smoki Museum (Prescott),

Symphony Hall (Phoenix), 143

Trains and railways, 534

189

Grand Canyon Railway,

Smoking, 553

T

255–256, 292, 293

Snake Dance, 318–320

Take A Hike Arizona, 109

Verde Canyon Railroad

Snake Gulch, 275

Taliesin West (Scottsdale),

(Clarkdale), 205

SNOWDRIFT Art Space

79–80

Troon North Golf Club

(Winslow), 313

Tanner Trail, 260

(Scottsdale), 104

Soleri Bridge and Plaza

Tarantulas, 42

Tsakurshovi (Second Mesa), 322

(Scottsdale), 85–86

Taxes, 553–554

Tsegi Canyon, 342

Sonoita and Patagonia,

Telephones, 554

Tsegi Overlook, 337

474–479

Tempe and the East Valley,

Tubac, 465–472

Sonoita Creek State Natural

70–71

Tubac Center of the Arts, 466

Area, 476

accommodations, 171–172

Tubac Festival of the Arts, 35

Sonoran Desert, weather, 39

bars, 150

Tuba City Trading Post, 323

Sosa-Carillo-Frémont House

exploring, 90–93

Tubac Presidio State Historic

(Tucson), 396

restaurants, 130–131

Park, 466–467

Southeastern Arizona,

Tempe Center for the Arts, 93,

Tubing

suggested itinerary, 56–58

144–145

near Phoenix, 110

Southeastern Arizona Bird

Tempe Town Lake, 93

Yuma, 528

Observatory, 484

Temple of Music and Art

Tucson, 48–49, 379–459

Southern Arizona, 49, 461–506

(Tucson), 396, 438

accommodations, 444–459

Southern Arizona

Tennis, 110, 413, 545

arriving in, 380–381

Transportation Museum

Ten-X Campground (near

entertainment and nightlife,

(Tucson), 389, 397

Tusayan), 270

437–444

Southern Pacific Willcox Train

Territorial Days (Prescott), 187

exploring, 388–415

Depot, 498

Texas Canyon, 500

getting around, 386–387

South Kaibab Trail, 9, 250,

Theater League (Phoenix), 146

for kids, 414–415

257–259

Theodore Roosevelt Dam, 176

layout, 384

South Mountain Park/Preserve,

Third Mesa, 318–319

neighborhoods in brief,

105–106

Three Golden Chiefs, 213

384–386

South Phoenix

Thumb Butte, 189

organized tours, 408

accommodations, 171–172

Time zones, 554

outdoor activities, 408–414

exploring, 90–93

Tipping, 554–555

restaurants, 415–431

restaurants, 130–131

Titan Missile Museum

shopping, 431–437

South Rim Drive (Canyon de

(Sahuarita), 407–408

spas, 414

Chelly), 335, 337–338

Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts

spectator sports, 444

Southwest Wings Birding and

Village, 226–227

street maps, 384

Nature Festival (Sierra

Tohono Chul Park (Tucson), 401

visitor information, 384

Vista), 37

Tohono O’odham Nation

walking tour, 392–397

Spa at Camelback Inn

Cultural Center & Museum

Tucson Attractions Passport,

(Scottsdale), 111–112

(Topawa), 464–465

392

Spa Avania (Scottsdale), 112

Toilets, 555

Tucson Botanical Gardens, 399

Spas

Tomb of the Weaver, 336

Tucson Convention Center, 396

Phoenix area, 110–112

Tombstone, 487–491

Tucson Convention Center (TCC)

Sedona, 216–217

Tombstone Courthouse State

Music Hall, 438

Tucson, 414

Park, 489

Tucson Gem and Mineral Show,

Spider Rock, 335

Tombstone Epitaph Museum,

35

Spider Rock Overlook, 338

489

Tucson International Mariachi

Springerville, 373–375

Tombstone’s Historama, 488

Conference, 36

Spur Cross Ranch Conservation

Tombstone Western Heritage

Tucson Mountain Park, 411

Area, 108

Museum, 489–490

Tucson Museum of Art, 389,

Stargazing, 280, 470–471

Tonto National Monument, 14,

392, 394, 434

Steinfeld House (Tucson), 395

176

Tucson Presidio, 392

Stevens House (Tucson), 394

Tonto Natural Bridge State

Park, 364

565

Tucson Rodeo Parade Museum,

Walpi, 5, 317, 318, 320–321

Willow Stream–The Spa at the

405

Waste Management Phoenix

Fairmont Scottsdale

Tucson Symphony Orchestra,

Open Golf Tournament, 35

Princess, 112

438

Water, drinking, 556

Window Rock, 330–333

Tumacácori National Historical

Waterfall Trail, 108–109

Wineries and vineyards, 7

Park, 467

Water skiing, 8

Jerome, 200

INDEX

Turf Soaring School (Peoria), 98

Watson Lake, 190

near Prescott, 194

Tusayan, 264

Watson Lake Park, 190

Sedona area, 217, 228

accommodations, 268–269

Watson Woods Riparian

Sonoita, 476–477

restaurants, 265–266

Preserve, 190

Verde Valley, 205–206

Tusayan Museum, 248

Weather, 34

Willcox area, 499

Tuzigoot National Monument,

desert, 39

Wings over Willcox, 35, 502

204

We-Ko-Pa Golf Club (Fort

Winslow, 313–316

Twin Nuns, 212

McDowell), 104

Winsor Castle, 275

Welcome Back Buzzards

Wishing Well (Wickenburg), 183

U

(Superior), 36

Woodland Lake, 368

UA Science Flandrau (Tucson),

Wells Fargo History Museum

Woodland Lake Park, 368

399

(Phoenix), 89

World Championship Hoop

University of Arizona Centennial West Baldy Trail, 371

Dance Contest (Phoenix),

Hall (Tucson), 438

Western Arizona, 49, 508–532

35

University of Arizona College of

Western wear and gear

Wotan’s Throne, 250

Fine Arts School of Music

Nogales, 473

Wright, Frank Lloyd, 86, 144

(Tucson), 439

Phoenix area, 142

Taliesin West (Scottsdale),

University of Arizona Museum

Sedona, 227

79–80

of Art (Tucson), 399–400

Tucson, 437

Wrigley Mansion (Phoenix),

Upper Salt River, 110

West Fork of Oak Creek, 216

86–87

U.S. Army Intelligence Museum

West Fork Trail, 371

Wukoki Ruin, 284

(Sierra Vista), 481–482

WestWorld of Scottsdale, 156

Wupatki National Monument,

White House Ruin, 337

15, 284–285

White House Ruins Trail, 9–10

Wupatki Ruin, 284

V

White Mountains Trail System,

Wyatt Earp Days (Tombstone),

Valentine, 306

368

36

Valle Vista, 305

White Tank Mountain Regional

Wyatt Earp House & Gallery

Valley Drive (Monument Valley),

Park, 108–109

(Tombstone), 490

344–345

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area,

Van’s Trading Co. (Tuba City),

502–503

323

Y

White-water rafting, 545

V Bar V Heritage Site (near

Yaki Point, 250

Colorado River, 262–264

Sedona), 212

Yarnell, 185

Grand Canyon, 3

Ventana Canyon Trail, 412

Yavapai Geology Museum, 251

Grand Canyon West, 301

Verde Canyon Railroad

Yavapai Point, 251

Phoenix area, 110

(Clarkdale), 205

Yuma, 526–532

Salt River, 368

Verde Valley, 180, 201–207

Yuma Art Center, 527

Wickenburg, 180–186

Vermilion Cliffs National

Yuma Quartermaster Depot

Widforss Point Trail, 273

Monument, 4, 241,

State Historic Park,

The Wigwam (Litchfield Park),

274, 276

527–528

105

Visas, 555–556

Yuma Symposium, 527

Wildcat Trail, 10, 345

Visitor information, 556

Yuma Territorial Prison State

Wildflowers, 175, 413–414

Volunteer travel, 43, 546

Historic Park, 528

Wildlife World Zoo & Aquarium

Vortexes, Sedona area, 212

(Litchfield Park), 95

Vultee Arch Trail, 219

Z

Wild West experiences, best,

Vulture Peak, 184–185

Zarpara Vineyard (near Willcox),

13–14

499

Willcox, 497–499, 502–504

W

Zuni Festival of Arts and Culture

Williams, 292–297

Wa:k Pow Wow (Tucson), 36

(Flagstaff), 36

Williams Valley Winter

Walnut Canyon National

Recreation Area, 377

Monument, 284

Willow Lake Park, 191

566

PHOTO CREDITS

p. i: © John Cancalosi/Alamy; p. iii: © Richard Ansley/Frommers.com Community; p. iv: © Richard Ansley/Frommers.com Community; p. viii: © Mike Coffey; p. 1: © Ron Niebrugge/Alamy; p. 2: © Josh PHOTO CREDITS

Biggs; p. 3, left: © James S. Wood; p. 3, right: © James S. Wood; p. 4: © Josh Biggs; p. 5: © Josh Biggs; p. 6, top: © James S. Wood; p. 6, bottom: © James S. Wood; p. 7: © James S. Wood; p. 9:

© James S. Wood; p. 10, top: © Robert Shantz/Alamy; p. 10, bottom: © Josh Biggs; p. 11: © James S.

Wood; p. 12: © Josh Biggs; p. 14: © Josh Biggs; p. 15: © James S. Wood; p. 16: © Kirk Mastin/Aurora Photos/Alamy; p. 18: © Josh Biggs; p. 19: © James S. Wood; p. 22: © The Protected Art Archive/Alamy; p. 23: © George H.H. Huey/Alamy; p. 25: © kwest/Frommers.com Community; p. 27: © Jim West/

Alamy; p. 31: © James S. Wood; p. 33: © Josh Biggs; p. 38: © A. T. Willett/Alamy; p. 41, left: © James S. Wood; p. 41, right: © James S. Wood; p. 42: © James S. Wood; p. 44: © JerrycAZ/Frommers.com Community; p. 48: © Josh Biggs; p. 49: © Ron Niebrugge/Alamy; p. 50: © Josh Biggs; p. 52, top:

© smoraona/Frommers.com Community; p. 52, bottom: © greysign/Frommers.com Community; p. 54, left: © James S. Wood; p. 54, right: © Josh Biggs; p. 56, top: © Josh Biggs; p. 56, bottom: © James S.

Wood; p. 57: © James S. Wood; p. 58: © Courtesy Arizona State Parks, Photo by Noelle Wilson; p. 60:

© James S. Wood; p. 61: © Josh Biggs; p. 62: © James S. Wood; p. 64: © James S. Wood; p. 65:

© James S. Wood; p. 67: © James S. Wood; p. 70, left: © James S. Wood; p. 70, right: © James S.

Wood; p. 73: © James S. Wood; p. 75, left: © James S. Wood; p. 75, right: © James S. Wood; p. 78:

© James S. Wood; p. 79: © James S. Wood; p. 82: © James S. Wood; p. 83: © James S. Wood; p. 84:

© Yvonne Baur/Frommers.com Community; p. 85: © James S. Wood; p. 86: © James S. Wood; p. 87: © James S. Wood; p. 88: © James S. Wood; p. 89: © James S. Wood; p. 91: © James S. Wood; p. 92: © James S. Wood; p. 94, top: © James S. Wood; p. 94, bottom: © James S. Wood; p. 96:

© James S. Wood; p. 97: © James S. Wood; p. 98: © Buddy Mays/Alamy; p. 100: © Niebrugge Images/

Alamy; p. 102: © Courtesy The Boulders Resort; p. 103: © Courtesy Gold Canyon Golf Resort; p. 104:

© Courtesy The Phoenician; p. 106: © James S. Wood; p. 107: © James S. Wood; p. 111: © James S.

Wood; p. 113: © James S. Wood; p. 140: © James S. Wood; p. 143: © Courtesy of The Phoenix Symphony, Photo by Tim Trumble; p. 144: © James S. Wood; p. 147: © James S. Wood; p. 149:

© James S. Wood; p. 151: © Courtesy of Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa; p. 152, top:

© Courtesy of Evening Entertainment Group; p. 152, bottom: © Courtesy of Evening Entertainment Group; p. 153: © James S. Wood; p. 175: © Skip Higgins of Raskal Photography/Alamy; p. 176: © James S. Wood; p. 178: © Josh Biggs; p. 182: © Richard Cummins/SuperStock; p. 183: © Richard Cummins/

SuperStock; p. 184: © Tom Bean/Alamy; p. 187, left: © Josh Biggs; p. 187, right: © Josh Biggs; p. 189:

© Josh Biggs; p. 190: © Josh Biggs; p. 193: © Josh Biggs; p. 194: © Josh Biggs; p. 197: © Josh Biggs; p. 199, left: © Josh Biggs; p. 199, right: © Josh Biggs; p. 202: © Josh Biggs; p. 203: © Josh Biggs; p. 206: © Josh Biggs; p. 208: © Josh Biggs; p. 211: © Josh Biggs; p. 213: © Josh Biggs; p. 214: © Josh Biggs; p. 215: © Josh Biggs; p. 217: © Josh Biggs; p. 218: © Josh Biggs; p. 226: © Josh Biggs; p. 229:

© Courtesy of Enchantment Resort; p. 237: © Dan Barba/Stock Connection/Alamy; p. 239: © Josh Biggs; p. 242: © Josh Biggs; p. 243: © Josh Biggs; p. 247: © Josh Biggs; p. 248: © Tom Bean/Alamy; p. 251, top: © Josh Biggs; p. 251, bottom: © Josh Biggs; p. 254: © Josh Biggs; p. 255: © James Capo/

Frommers.com Community; p. 256: © Lee Foster/Alamy; p. 258: © Josh Biggs; p. 259: © rgs64/

Frommers.com Community; p. 261: © Josh Biggs; p. 262: © Josh Biggs; p. 271: © Kit Christensen/

Frommers.com Community; p. 273: © National Geographic/SuperStock; p. 274, top: © Josh Biggs; p. 274, bottom: © Josh Biggs; p. 279: © Josh Biggs; p. 280: © Josh Biggs; p. 283, top: © Don Smetzer/

Alamy; p. 283, bottom: © Dennis MacDonald/Alamy; p. 285, left: © Josh Biggs; p. 285, right: © Josh Biggs; p. 293: © Josh Biggs; p. 294: © Josh Biggs; p. 298: © Josh Biggs; p. 300: © Julie Quarry/Alamy; p. 302: © Michael Dwyer/Alamy; p. 305: © David Ball/Alamy; p. 306: © Brian Barnes/Alamy; p. 308:

© offiwent.com/Alamy; p. 310: © Nicholas Pitt/Alamy; p. 314: © Josh Biggs; p. 315: © Josh Biggs; p. 316: © Courtesy of La Posada Hotel, photo by Dan Lutzick; p. 317: © The Protected Art Archive/

Alamy; p. 319: © Chuck Place/Alamy; p. 325: © Julian McRoberts/Danita Delimont/Alamy; p. 326:

© CarverMostardi/Alamy; p. 327: © Josh Biggs; p. 328: © Josh Biggs; p. 331: © Cindy Miller Hopkins/

Danita Delimont/Alamy; p. 332, top: © Cindy Miller Hopkins/Danita Delimont/Alamy; p. 332, bottom: 567

© David Mikesic, Courtesy The Navajo Zoo; p. 334: © Della Huff/Alamy; p. 336: © Cindy Miller Hopkins/DanitaDelimont.com/Alamy; p. 337, left: © Tom Benoit/SuperStock; p. 337, right:

© Mediacolor’s/Alamy; p. 339: © Friem6/Frommers.com Community; p. 344: © SERDAR/Alamy; p. 345:

© JerrycAZ/Frommers.com Community; p. 349: © central19/Frommers.com Community; p. 351: © Sal Maimone/SuperStock; p. 352: © Josh Biggs; p. 353: © Josh Biggs; p. 355: © Josh Biggs; p. 358: © Josh Biggs; p. 360: © James Bearden/Alamy; p. 362: © Visual Mining/Alamy; p. 364: © Brian Green/Alamy; p. 365: © Josh Biggs; p. 371: © Laurent Baig/Alamy; p. 374: © Marek Zuk/Alamy; p. 376: © Robert Shantz/Alamy; p. 378: © James S. Wood; p. 381: © James S. Wood; p. 385, left: © James S. Wood; p. 385, right: © James S. Wood; p. 389: © James S. Wood; p. 398: © James S. Wood; p. 401, left:

© James S. Wood; p. 401, right: © James S. Wood; p. 402: © James S. Wood; p. 404: © James S.

PHOTO CREDITS

Wood; p. 406: © James S. Wood; p. 407: © James S. Wood; p. 411: © James S. Wood; p. 412: © James S. Wood; p. 432: © James S. Wood; p. 439: © James S. Wood; p. 440: © James S. Wood; p. 460:

© Courtesy Arizona State Parks, Photo by Noelle Wilson; p. 462: © robontherun/Frommers.com Community; p. 467, left: © TAS62/Frommers.com Community; p. 467, right: © Robert Shantz/Alamy; p. 470: © eatmorechilies.com; p. 471: © Susan E. Degginger/Alamy; p. 475, left: © National Geographic Image Collection/Alamy; p. 475, right: © Genevieve Vallee/Alamy; p. 476: © James S.

Wood; p. 477: © James S. Wood; p. 480: © Courtesy Arizona State Parks, Photo by Noelle Wilson; p. 482, left: © John Cancalosi/Alamy; p. 482, right: © James S. Wood; p. 483: © Bob Gibbons/Alamy; p. 487: © James S. Wood; p. 489: © James S. Wood; p. 490: © James S. Wood; p. 492: © James S.

Wood; p. 494: © James S. Wood; p. 498: © Science Faction/SuperStock; p. 501: © Phil Degginger/

Alamy; p. 503: © Robert Shantz/Alamy; p. 507: © Mike Goldwater/Alamy; p. 510: © James Glover II Photography; p. 511: © Eric Parsons; p. 514: © John Elk III/Alamy; p. 515: © Jenny Fitch; p. 518:

© Jeng/Frommers.com Community; p. 521: © Mike Goldwater/Alamy; p. 522: © Courtesy of Emerald Canyon Golf Course; p. 528: © Randy Bradley/Alamy Images; p. 530: © Courtesy of City of Yuma Arts and Culture Division; p. 533: © Peter Brouillet/Alamy

568

Document Outline

- FROMMER'S ARIZONA & THE GRAND CANYON, 19TH EDITION

- TABLE OF CONTENTS

- LIST OF MAPS

- CONTENTS

- CHAPTER 1: THE BEST OF ARIZONA

- THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST REGIONAL EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST FOOD & DRINK EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST WAYS TO SEE ARIZONA LIKE A LOCAL

- THE BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST HIKING EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST SCENIC DRIVES

- THE BEST OFFBEAT TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST WILD WEST EXPERIENCES

- THE BEST PLACES TO EXPLORE INDIAN RUINS

- CHAPTER 2: ARIZONA IN DEPTH

- ARIZONA TODAY

- THE MAKING OF ARIZONA

- ARIZONA IN POP CULTURE

- EATING & DRINKING IN ARIZONA

- WHEN TO GO

- ARIZONA’S NATURAL WORLD

- RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

- CHAPTER 3: SUGGESTED ARIZONA ITINERARIES

- REGIONS IN BRIEF

- ARIZONA HIGHLIGHTS

- ARIZONA IN 2 WEEKS

- A SOJOURN IN SOUTHEASTERN ARIZONA

- NATIVE TRAILS OF ARIZONA

- ARIZONA IN THE WINTER

- CHAPTER 4: PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE & THE VALEY OF THE SUN

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN PHOENIX

- ESSENTIALS

- GETTING AROUND

- EXPLORING PHOENIX

- WHERE TO EAT

- SHOPPING

- ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE

- WHERE TO STAY

- A SIDE TRIP FROM PHOENIX: THE APACHE TRAIL

- CHAPTER 5: CENTRAL ARIZONA

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN CENTRAL ARIZONA

- WICKENBURG

- PRESCOTT

- JEROME

- THE VERDE VALLEY

- SEDONA & OAK CREEK CANYON

- CHAPTER 6: THE GRAND CANYON & NORTHERN ARIZONA

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 6 IN NORTHERN ARIZONA

- THE GRAND CANYON SOUTH RIM

- THE GRAND CANYON NORTH RIM

- FLAGSTAFF

- WILLIAMS

- HAVASU CANYON & GRAND CANYON WEST

- KINGMAN

- CHAPTER 7: THE FOUR CORNERS: LAND OF THE HOPI & NAVAJO

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

- WINSLOW

- THE HOPI RESERVATION

- THE PETRIFIED FOREST & PAINTED DESERT

- THE WINDOW ROCK & GANADO AREAS

- CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT

- NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT

- MONUMENT VALLEY NAVAJO TRIBAL PARK

- LAKE POWELL & PAGE

- CHAPTER 8: EASTERN ARIZONA'S HIGH COUNTRY

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN EASTERN ARIZONA

- PAYSON & THE MOGOLLON RIM COUNTRY

- PINETOP-LAKESIDE

- GREER & SUNRISE PARK

- SPRINGERVILLE & EAGAR

- THE CORONADO TRAIL

- CHAPTER 9: TUCSON

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN TUCSON

- ORIENTATION

- GETTING AROUND

- 9 EXPLORING TUCSON

- WHERE TO EAT

- SHOPPING

- ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE

- WHERE TO STAY

- CHAPTER 10: SOUTHERN ARIZONA

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN SOUTHERN ARIZONA

- ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL MONUMENT

- TUBAC & BUENOS AIRES NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

- NOGALES

- PATAGONIA & SONOITA

- SIERRA VISTA & THE SAN PEDRO VALLEY

- TOMBSTONE

- BISBEE

- COCHISE COUNTY

- CHAPTER 11: ARIZONA'S "WEST COAST"

- THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN WESTERN ARIZONA

- LAKE MEAD NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

- BULLHEAD CITY & LAUGHLIN, NEVADA

- LAKE HAVASU & THE LONDON BRIDGE

- SIDE TRIPS

- YUMA

- CHAPTER 12: PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ARIZONA

- GETTING THERE

- GETTING AROUND

- TIPS ON WHERE TO STAY

- TOURS

- AIRLINE WEBSITES

- INDEX

Table of Contents

1 THE BEST OF ARIZONA 1

The Most Unforgettable Travel

The Best Hiking Experiences 9

Experiences 3

The Best Scenic Drives 10

The Best Regional Experiences 4

The Best Offbeat Travel

The Best Food & Drink

Experiences 12

Experiences 6

The Best Wild West

The Best Ways to See Arizona

Experiences 13

Like a Local 7

The Best Places to Explore

The Best Family Experiences 8

Indian Ruins 14

2 ARIZONA IN DEPTH 16

Arizona Today 18

When to Go 33

The Making of Arizona 21

Arizona in Pop Culture 28

Arizona’s Natural World 37

Eating & Drinking in Arizona 31

Responsible Travel 42

3 SUGGESTED ARIZONA ITINERARIES 44

Regions in Brief 45

A Sojourn in Southeastern

Arizona Highlights 49

Arizona 56

Arizona in 2 Weeks 53

Native Trails of Arizona 58

Arizona in the Winter 62

4 PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE & THE VALLEY

OF THE SUN 64

The Best Travel Experiences in

THE TOP MUNICIPAL COURSES 105

Phoenix 66

Where to Eat 113

Essentials 66

Shopping 135

Getting Around 71

Entertainment & Nightlife 142

Where to Stay 156

Exploring Phoenix 74

A Side Trip from Phoenix:

Walking Tour: Old Town

The Apache Trail 175

Scottsdale 80

5 CENTRAL ARIZONA 178